@@MANOLEJAS I got the same results. The lighter the coats the better the results. You don't need to do anymore than a few light passes for the desired chrome effect.
@@marcusprince3999 Why thin it at all? It's already thin. I actually sprayed it on fairly wet to get a liquid chrome effect. As it dries it initially goes cloudy - and looks like bright silver paint. I put my object on my car dashboard in the sun, and it took over a week to fully dry, but when it did - WOW!! Chrome. It looks amazing!! I've yet to find a clear coat though, and I've tried Alclad Aqua, Alclad Lacquer, and E7 Chrome Sealer. All took the shine off the chrome. I'm going to dry my object further, and then just handle it carefully. With incidental handling it is OK!!
@@mikthe2004 I have 'Pledge Revive It Floor gloss' it's back to the original formula as "Klear" and worked really well on the 24th scale Subaru I just made. I think this might work well as a clearcoat.
My friend… you are a hero!! I was thinking about testing these on the airbrush, but I was kinga getting away of that idea because of the price on these, thanks man!
They sell refill bottles of this stuff which is more expensive, but you get a lot more paint in the bottle. It's also a squeeze bottle so you can measure it out as you need it
I just air brushed the lightbar from MPC Dodge police car with Molotow chrome. It come out great. I'm fixing it up with lights , and detailing it. And the lightbar had a seem. I striped it with Dettol (disinfectant/cleaner) then sprayed it over the plastic. Great job. Thanks for the video. ,John
Awesome informative video..... I'm going to spray some dash parts for a old Galaxie I am restoring, and was just researching painting with Molotow, using my air brush. Looks like a good product.
Awesome vid. I keep a collection of your test videos now instead of collecting spoons I paint. Bet this chrome will be great for candy colour base paint
Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner does wonders for hand brushing Molotow. I’ve been using it for about a year now and it works great. If you use the pen and get all of those streaks and strokes lightly dab a little Mr Hobby leveling thinner onto the Molotow and it will take away all of those marks and strokes. I’ve even used it to correct a fingerprint when the paint was still wet and it causes the Molotow to fizz like soda and then it self levels back out. I’ve also learned that you have to let the Molotow to dry for a few days before it’s cured.
I let it sit for two weeks while on vacation and found it very durable. I experimented with different clear glosses but they just dulled the finish a bit.
True, mine has dried nicely over the weeks. Next time I'll try and dry them in my dehydrator and see how that works. Try Vallejo Metal Varnish, that stuff is awesome. It might keep the shine. Check my video test on it
That is SICK! Never thought about trying to decant those pens. Too cool! Also didn't know you could buy those Tamiya bottles, def will be ordering some of those ASAP. Thanks
After doing extensive research, what I've found is that you need to let this paint dry for days. Maybe even a week. The only coat that seems to not negatively impact the chrome too much is Alclad II Klear Kote Gloss (ALC-310). It's important to not touch the paint AT ALL while it dries for those few days. I have also seen examples where they let the chrome paint dry for like 30 days (without a clear coat) and at that point it seems to resist smudges and fingerprints. 30 day is a long time. But if it's a piece you're painting and just displaying, it can dry on it's own anyway. Try both methods, and see if that works. It really has the best chrome effect I've seen from any other brands. Good luck.
this stuff is designed to be brush painted, used as the marker, used in a dropper, and yes in a air brush. you can order the the refill bottles to avoid the whole dismantling a marker. its alcohol based paint, so dilute with that its also scratch and uv resistant so its pretty darn durable.
I've only used Green Stuff World Chrome which is also alcohol based. Is Molotow the same as that? The GSW chrome dries pretty hard, but if you handle it a lot - rub it hard with you finger for example - it will dull. I don't think there would be a problem with incidental touching though? Are you familiar with GSW Chrome? I've got both chromes sitting in my cupboard, and I'm going to spray 2 Masquerade masks with one of them, but I want the best overall look. I think Molotow looks a little more chrome like? But is it durable as GSW Chrome? Anybody out there got an opinion on this??
It's alcohol-based paint - and the way it works to get its sheen and mirror-smoothness is through a surface-tension trick that aligns the particles in it while the alcohol evaporates and the binder sets. That's why it likes to be on heavy, preferably in one juicy layer. ✌😁
Hey, first of all, thanks for all the reviews and tests, I can't even find most of those brands and products but is really relaxing and informative content! Any chance we get a test on Molotow ONE4ALL acrylic paints on airbrush and even on brush someday in the future? I know it's not a proper model paint but it's one of the few brands that's easy to find around here (no idea why) and doesn't cost a ton for the amount it come in the refil bottles.
@@barbatosrex9473 what Is the best Clear for this, I've waited a week and put some pledge on it, it dulled it significantly, I applied it with a air brush, second attempt to clear I applied it with a q tip, same result. What am I missing here. Please help.
I caught a video of a guy and showed durability and put a coat of clear and did not change the brightness. seemed indestructible. ua-cam.com/video/UV9a1QxEw0A/v-deo.html
Need to spray some chrome, knew Barbatos would have a video on it. So for thinning, what is the ratio paint/thinner? I'll be using the Mr. Leveling Thinner. And this paint ain't cheap...
How you doing today. I don’t know where I can ask a question?? All try hear. I painted a car with Mcw lacquer Then cleared. By far one of my best. Well I put a mark in it. I thought I’d just buff out. Got the mark out,now fine scratches and hazy fog look. I used novice. Any suggestions I got windows in the car was done
I have found the pens to be excellent for the window trims with car and truck models. Also it does a nice job covering the areas you have to re-chrome when trimming off the areas you had to cut off the chrome sprew. I haven't tried air brushing it but wow, what a demo you've done here Rex. I am about to test the Alclad chrome for the first time but maybe the Molotow is better? I guess I'll soon find out. It does dry. I coat it with a clear coat to help prevent it rubbing off, which it will do with too much handling. Well, from my experience anyways.
@@tianskywalker I just used Pledge Revive it Floor Polish. (Future) It's acrylic and had no adverse effects on the chrome paint. I haven't tried a lacquer clear or enamel yet.
@@edsouza6600 I waited at least a full day (24 hours) for the chrome to completely dry. Maybe that's overkill but since I'm in no hurry... that's what I did. Not an expert by any means.
@@acrowe2512 I've waited a week and applied with a q tip on the grille of a 1/43 scale semi, and it dulled the molotow significantly, with pledge. Is there something else I can try instead of pledge.
Hey Rex, to touch up a chrome car emblem (toyota), that cant be removed from the car...would you recommend trying to dab these to create a little pool and then using a fine brush to touch the damaged parts of the badge? I don't know how well it's to compare to an electroplated factory chrome though.
Can't compare electroplating, that's the best. But that will work. You can tty Green Stuff World Chrome for brushing, they make both, brush on and airbrush on.
Almost seems like it would be best to dip parts in it so it's on all at once and not being dried as you go by the airbrush. Not sure if a rotating drying holder would help. Might keep the paint level and sag free. But also may effect the cured look because the paint is still moving around a constantly while spinning. Unlike a piece of paper or similar, sitting flat and still on a table.
Can you spray candy colors on top to make colored chrome? I have been looking for chrome paints that does not lose its "chrome" when layered with top coat. Most of the chrome paints becomes just grey when layered with candy color or even just a clear top coat.
I didn't have a problem spraying candy colors over this or Alclad Chrome. I actually just sprayed chrome over a piece painted red and that looked great. You can see it in my latest picture in my community section of my channel
Hi sir, I have little knowledge about painting with an airbrush. Could you please tell me what solvent you use to clean the paint cup after using the liquid chrome?
Most clear coats on top of chrome takes away the chrome look. A recent video I tested AK Interactive 1K Super Gloss and that one seems to do a decent job
Even if you allow it several months to fully cure, it will all the same be vulnerable to handling. On top of that, (no pun intended) Molotow Liquid Chrome is notoriously difficult to protect with a clear coat because just about anything you spray on it will either visibly dull the shine or obliterate it entirely. Hence why, despite its brilliance, the product remains a no-go for *serious* modelers. (Speaking of whom, they also apparently don't consider spoons as adequate test mules). It is so frustratingly redundant to see video after video conduct the same damn experiment without bothering to learn from the tests that came way before and thus with nothing new to add except more confusion. Lastly, it's important to understand that the way Molotow works is completely different from those other metalics by AKA, Alclad II, Spaz Stix, etc. In fact, you could almost say it's the exact opposite - not only do you hose it down, as opposed to sneaking up with thin layers, but also, because of it's self-leveling nature, you don't really need to undercoat it either. This test, instead of trying different undercoats, which was an needless waste of time, should've focused on topcoats. If you'd care for a... still not quite perfect but heck of a lot more *useful* experiment that came two whole years before this one, here's a link: ua-cam.com/video/bRZgtjekfgU/v-deo.html (Sorry that it's not in English).
@@IllusionSector yeah, I'm aware of the basics of this product, which was why I was asking about how well, if at all, the top coat worked for it. It's a shame, because it looks great, it's just not a great product for everyday use.
I love your vids. I was hoping to find another on the molotow clear coat results? Everything I have tried that I had on hand dulled it. Let me know what you found I would really appreciate it.
That's a GSI Procon Boy PS-289 0.3mm , it's my favorite airbrush. I love it, get one here spraygunner.com?aff=10 It will actually make you better at airbrushing
The best I can find so far is Alclad Aqua Gloss and Vallejo Metal arnish. You will lose a bit of the chrome effect for sure, but I will be testing out 2k Auto gloss soon to see what that does to it
Hey man, hope you are good. I've tried the Molotow out but I left it for 3 days to cure and it still dulls when I touched it, Also tried some clear coats on it and the immediately dulled the mirror finish. Did you ever test the durability or any clear coats over it. I just got some pledge floor protector so may try that out and see if it gives a better result, thanks man - excellent video.
I know it's been a while since this video was made but have you found any successful clear coats to use over the molotow liquid mirror? I tried using some Super Clear III to no avail, any suggestions? Thanks, I love your vids, keep it up!
I would love an update on this, especially if you found out details on clear coats and durability. From my experience nothing worked (that didnt dull the shine) except the Spaz Stix product. And then its was hit or miss even then.
@@Mecustoms17 The regular Model Color clear, the Mecha Color clear, or the Metal Gloss clear, out of curiosity? Or does it not matter? I've heard the Metal Gloss one also works on Alclad, but I haven't tried it myself, so... 🤷♂️
FINALLY!!!! I’ve been waiting for this video!!!!!!!!! I have one myself, and it’s one of the most used tools in my painting Arsenal. Have you gotten my email yet? And my the way, to open them, you can pop open the top, rather than doing everything you went through.
@@barbatosrex9473 Thank you so much! You’re such an inspiration to me, so it means so much to me! I am now working on a candy painting on my rg wing zero gundam, and I’m going a lot of fading and stuff, from the burnt exhaust tutorial you made. Do you have any criticisms on the freedom? I’d love to hear if you did.
I 100% agree! This is great stuff.....BUT! Now what? What do you do to effectively protect it. I have tried nearly everything, from E7, Pledge, Aquagloss clearcoat....everything kills the shine. If you...breathe on, touch, look sideways at, or even mention it's name disparagingly....it will fog! 🤪 LOTS of good chromes out there, Krylon Foil is one, out of the can....the secret sauce here is....what clearcoat will protect it, and maintain the shine! Now I will step down, off of my box. 🙃
I save my old testors paint jars for paint mixing in small batches. Just Goo Gone the labels off or use a plastic scraper & a little paint stripper on a paper towel to clean residue.
Rex, was the durability test ever done? I searched your videos for "molotow" and didn't see one. Was it mentioned in another video w/out Molotow in the title? Thanks
great video, can you use the black gloss base as a finish cote? Or is it strictly base paint. Also, could you give me a link to the airbrush you used in this video?
I appreciate how much money you save me. Genuinely, and it seems like you have a great time doing the tests that save us money :D NAIL POLISH TEST LOLOL YESSSS Good tip on the dropper bottles! I have been using empty Alclad bottles for storage but it doesn't have the dropper tool and I'm highly resistant to using disposable pipettes. I produce enough waste as is, you know? The cool thing about empty Alclad bottles is that a lot of them have labels you can basically erase with lacquer thinner and then use a sharpie for your own info. But it doesn't have that dropper which I want so badly. Have you considered streaming your building processes? Its not a thing everyone enjoys doing but a lot of folk find this type of content to be relaxing, satisfying, and educational. I've been encouraged to look into it because I love this hobby so much but my content would be "Learn from me by watching me fail repeatedly and do things I really shouldn't do."
I've been thinking about a build video a couple things hold me back. I would need better equipment for filming and editing for sure. And I love to listen to my music when I build, in particular metal music. Plus there's so many great builders here that it's really intimidating to me. I feel I wouldn't want to watch me after seeing these other great builders : )
did you apply a clear over the molotow at some point? i used the pen to apply it to a figure, let it cure for about a week, I grabbed it by where I applied it and it smudged real easily. Looking for a clear to use to pair it with to protect the chrome shine.
I use two clears to coat my chrome. Aqua Gloss by Alclad and Vallejo Metal Varnish. I cured my Molotow in a food dehydrator as it was taking forever to cure. But either of these will work. I really like the Metal Varnish
This is easily my favourite chrome paint, it's not cheap but it's a dream to work with. Word of advice: Mr. Leveling Thinner is perfect for thinning it, you add a little bit and it gets much easier to airbrush (and self-levels too). Any lacquer thinner should work but Mr. Leveling Thinner is my favourite.
Mr Leveling Thinner is my favorite item on my bench. When I'm half way down in the bottle I get more 😉 it's the best, I thin almost everything with it but forgot to with Molotow. Thanks for the tip.
@@jamesfair9751 Most alcohol-based paints can be thinned with hobby-grade lacquer thinners, and semi-gloss and glossy ones actually tend to thin better with some type of retarding additive (which is the difference between Mr. Leveling Thinner and regular Mr. Color Thinner, the Leveling Thinner has Drying Retarder in it to slow drying and allow the paint to level out while drying). I use it for all of my Tamiya X acrylics and all my Mr. Hobby Aqueous acrylics. You can also use Mr. Rapid Thinner for flat finish alcohol-based acrylics. I use it with the Tamiya XF acrylics.
I read your comment and tried it. It does work well, but I also tried pure ethanol and it worked even better. Tried other thinners but they were bad (tamiya laquer, tamiya acrylic and store laquer)
Available in 30ml 'pen refill' tube. I found on Amazon bulk box of glass eye droppers. Washable, can sit in lacquer or paint thinner to dissolve dried paint. I wash in my sonic cleaner, but one is not necessary. Box has lasted many, many years. Rubber bulb has never dried or cracked. I also don't get thinner in the bulb, but wash with soap & water anyway. Box must be at least 20 years old, no exageration.
there are refill bottles which contain 30ml for about 20€. how much was in that marker (with a 3 or 4 ml content) which cost about 7€. dripstick refill is 250ml for about 9€...
I am wondering what you would do if you needed to imitate a chrome or polished silver on an actual piece of wood? The wood actually is a very fine vine that has been dried out. The surface is fairly tight so I don't think it will absorb like a sponge. Any thoughts on how to do this? Thanks!
Alclad Gloss Black Base is Pre-Thinned so use it straight out of the bottle. But I've used just about everything for a black base. Tamiya Gloss Black spray can, Mr Color black, Testors black spray cans and more.
Don't thin Alclad Black, if your going to use a lacquer like Mr Color thin at least 50/50, if your using an Acrylic thin it 60/40. If using an enamel go with 50/50 also
The chrome stars inside the front and rear badges on my 2006 subaru have become water damaged and I'm going to use this to refurbish them. Thumbs up btw.
I wonder if it was the type of base that gave you trouble. Enamel spray paint has given me hell so many times when I try to layer over it. Sometimes it works fine, other times it's a nightmare. Even when fully cured for a long time.
Didn't seem to like Alclad. It's a bit thicker so that probably slows the process. The spoons look even better now that they have dried for a few hours
Thank you so much for all these test videos. I'm curious - which do you like better - Molotow Chrome or Spaz Stix? I have just a plastic headlight casing on a tank bicycle that I need to "chrome" and I have never worked with an airbrush. I'm good with spray paint though.
@@barbatosrex9473 I haven't had any luck with the airbrushing the Molotow or Spaz Stix or even Stuart Temple's Chrome paint. The paint comes out blotchy with some bright and chromey sections and others that are more of a dull silver like you would get from a Krylon spray can. Wondering what I'm doing wrong. Could it be humidity? Too big or too small of an airbrush needle? I am spraying an area that's about 5" by 5" - not just a spoon. Anyway, I have really learned a lot from watching your videos! Thank you so much.
I actually did today. With the best clear I have, 2K clear. I takes away the chrome effect a bit, doesn't quit look like chrome any more. But it doesn't look awful either. But if you want protection it's not going to look like this at all. But if you don't need the durability I'd leave it alone. If your going to use it on a model that's going to be sitting on a shelf I would leave it alone.
In a weeks time, can you do a durability test on this please? Also how well does it respond to Clear? What about Liquid Gold? I have a need for this in my current project, but I'd really like to know it's going to work as a long term solution.
I will be testing the durability soon. I will put a clear on it too. Plus a new chrome test for Spaz Stix including their special clear coat is coming soon, before the weekend
GSI Creos Mr Hobby Procon Boy Platinum usually around 20psi. You can also control the air flow from this particular airbrush. Have you seen my video on my full airbrush set up? I go over everything and I have links to the airbrush there. Thanks for watching
I have experimented with thinning Molotow with laquer thinner. It seems to make little diferance in the shine and at a 50/50 mix it goes twice as far
Worse or better?
@@MANOLEJAS I got the same results. The lighter the coats the better the results. You don't need to do anymore than a few light passes for the desired chrome effect.
Do you think that i could just use iso alcohol to thin it. I mean, its already an alcohol based paint anyway.
@@marcusprince3999 Why thin it at all? It's already thin. I actually sprayed it on fairly wet to get a liquid chrome effect.
As it dries it initially goes cloudy - and looks like bright silver paint. I put my object on my car dashboard in the sun, and it took over a week to fully dry, but when it did - WOW!! Chrome. It looks amazing!! I've yet to find a clear coat though, and I've tried Alclad Aqua, Alclad Lacquer, and E7 Chrome Sealer. All took the shine off the chrome. I'm going to dry my object further, and then just handle it carefully. With incidental handling it is OK!!
@@mikthe2004 I have 'Pledge Revive It Floor gloss' it's back to the original formula as "Klear" and worked really well on the 24th scale Subaru I just made.
I think this might work well as a clearcoat.
My friend… you are a hero!! I was thinking about testing these on the airbrush, but I was kinga getting away of that idea because of the price on these, thanks man!
Congrats on 1k subs! You've helped me a ton from all the tests you've been doing.
Thanks. A lot more tests to come. Anything in particular you want to see tested?
@@barbatosrex9473 candy coat these molotow's maybe? And compare with other candy coats with a different chrome base.
@@dstar01 it's in the works.
Wait are you telling me this guy got 36k subs in one year? How the actual fuck, that kind of growth is ridiculous.
They sell refill bottles of this stuff which is more expensive, but you get a lot more paint in the bottle. It's also a squeeze bottle so you can measure it out as you need it
This ^^
I thin it with 99% iso and it sprays ok. The brush/pen is just a thicker formula,
I just air brushed the lightbar from MPC Dodge police car with Molotow chrome. It come out great. I'm fixing it up with lights , and detailing it. And the lightbar had a seem. I striped it with Dettol (disinfectant/cleaner) then sprayed it over the plastic. Great job. Thanks for the video.
,John
I got one of their little pens to experiment with. It is good enough to use to touch up model chrome.
Awesome informative video..... I'm going to spray some dash parts for a old Galaxie I am restoring, and was just researching painting with Molotow, using my air brush. Looks like a good product.
Awesome vid. I keep a collection of your test videos now instead of collecting spoons I paint. Bet this chrome will be great for candy colour base paint
Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner does wonders for hand brushing Molotow. I’ve been using it for about a year now and it works great. If you use the pen and get all of those streaks and strokes lightly dab a little Mr Hobby leveling thinner onto the Molotow and it will take away all of those marks and strokes. I’ve even used it to correct a fingerprint when the paint was still wet and it causes the Molotow to fizz like soda and then it self levels back out. I’ve also learned that you have to let the Molotow to dry for a few days before it’s cured.
I let it sit for two weeks while on vacation and found it very durable. I experimented with different clear glosses but they just dulled the finish a bit.
True, mine has dried nicely over the weeks. Next time I'll try and dry them in my dehydrator and see how that works. Try Vallejo Metal Varnish, that stuff is awesome. It might keep the shine. Check my video test on it
Will it dry quicker if you apply heat on it?
That is SICK! Never thought about trying to decant those pens. Too cool! Also didn't know you could buy those Tamiya bottles, def will be ordering some of those ASAP. Thanks
Anytime buddy, thanks for watching
Hey there you can actually get refills so dont have to open a marker up . I got one coming glad you showed us thanks
I have a seen lot of videos on UA-cam of people air brushing this and looks fantastic !
It does look great. I'll be testing the durability of it next week
Could you test if it stays chrome with a clearcoat over top ?
When i airbrushed it, it didnt come out shiny, how come?
After doing extensive research, what I've found is that you need to let this paint dry for days. Maybe even a week. The only coat that seems to not negatively impact the chrome too much is Alclad II Klear Kote Gloss (ALC-310).
It's important to not touch the paint AT ALL while it dries for those few days.
I have also seen examples where they let the chrome paint dry for like 30 days (without a clear coat) and at that point it seems to resist smudges and fingerprints.
30 day is a long time. But if it's a piece you're painting and just displaying, it can dry on it's own anyway.
Try both methods, and see if that works. It really has the best chrome effect I've seen from any other brands.
Good luck.
I did Aqua Gloss in a video test. Works great. I will be testing my new 2K Gloss on it today and posting it
this stuff is designed to be brush painted, used as the marker, used in a dropper, and yes in a air brush. you can order the the refill bottles to avoid the whole dismantling a marker. its alcohol based paint, so dilute with that its also scratch and uv resistant so its pretty darn durable.
I've only used Green Stuff World Chrome which is also alcohol based. Is Molotow the same as that?
The GSW chrome dries pretty hard, but if you handle it a lot - rub it hard with you finger for example - it will dull.
I don't think there would be a problem with incidental touching though?
Are you familiar with GSW Chrome? I've got both chromes sitting in my cupboard, and I'm going to spray 2 Masquerade masks with one of them, but I want the best overall look. I think Molotow looks a little more chrome like? But is it durable as GSW Chrome?
Anybody out there got an opinion on this??
have you tried to lightly buff it with a buffing cloth
It's alcohol-based paint - and the way it works to get its sheen and mirror-smoothness is through a surface-tension trick that aligns the particles in it while the alcohol evaporates and the binder sets. That's why it likes to be on heavy, preferably in one juicy layer. ✌😁
This on the fly videos are my favorite
Hey, first of all, thanks for all the reviews and tests, I can't even find most of those brands and products but is really relaxing and informative content!
Any chance we get a test on Molotow ONE4ALL acrylic paints on airbrush and even on brush someday in the future? I know it's not a proper model paint but it's one of the few brands that's easy to find around here (no idea why) and doesn't cost a ton for the amount it come in the refil bottles.
I am going to order paints directly from Molotow so I do plan on a video test
This is what I was looking for. Love your Work
Thank you my friend 👍
@@barbatosrex9473 what Is the best Clear for this, I've waited a week and put some pledge on it, it dulled it significantly, I applied it with a air brush, second attempt to clear I applied it with a q tip, same result. What am I missing here. Please help.
Did you ever post results of the durability test? I couldn't find a vid.
Yeah, been looking for this too.
What size airbrush need was used?
Man that's just beautiful chrome
How was the durability? Man! that is a great chrome finish. This would be my go to chrome paint
Well it's not too durable but after weeks of drying it dried pretty good, not very durable but at least I could handle it without it being ruined
I saw a video of another guy and he used a clear coat. It went on great and did not loose its shine. ua-cam.com/video/UV9a1QxEw0A/v-deo.html
I caught a video of a guy and showed durability and put a coat of clear and did not change the brightness. seemed indestructible. ua-cam.com/video/UV9a1QxEw0A/v-deo.html
Need to spray some chrome, knew Barbatos would have a video on it. So for thinning, what is the ratio paint/thinner? I'll be using the Mr. Leveling Thinner. And this paint ain't cheap...
Check out my updated video on this I posted about a month ago. That said you don't really need to thin it but a few drops of lacquer thinner will do
Where did you get the dropper bottles
What would valejo colorshift look like over this?
What do you think a good clear coat sealer to use for this on plastic/ 3d PVA prints?
The new Pledge "Revive It" floor gloss. It's back to the old formula of Johnson's "Klear", I haven't tried it on this yet but I reckon it'll work.
So why did you get the marker if you just wanted the paint ?
really enjoyed this video, and especially enjoy your tips and tricks
Thanks buddy, I have many more to come. Thanks for watching
How you doing today. I don’t know where I can ask a question?? All try hear. I painted a car with Mcw lacquer Then cleared. By far one of my best. Well I put a mark in it. I thought I’d just buff out. Got the mark out,now fine scratches and hazy fog look. I used novice. Any suggestions I got windows in the car was done
Every situation is different. Can you mask off the area and just clear that. Then maybe blend it from there
I have found the pens to be excellent for the window trims with car and truck models. Also it does a nice job covering the areas you have to re-chrome when trimming off the areas you had to cut off the chrome sprew. I haven't tried air brushing it but wow, what a demo you've done here Rex. I am about to test the Alclad chrome for the first time but maybe the Molotow is better? I guess I'll soon find out. It does dry. I coat it with a clear coat to help prevent it rubbing off, which it will do with too much handling. Well, from my experience anyways.
hi may i ask what clear coat you used? Thanks
@@tianskywalker I just used Pledge Revive it Floor Polish. (Future) It's acrylic and had no adverse effects on the chrome paint. I haven't tried a lacquer clear or enamel yet.
@@acrowe2512 how long did you wait before putting the pledge on
@@edsouza6600 I waited at least a full day (24 hours) for the chrome to completely dry. Maybe that's overkill but since I'm in no hurry... that's what I did. Not an expert by any means.
@@acrowe2512 I've waited a week and applied with a q tip on the grille of a 1/43 scale semi, and it dulled the molotow significantly, with pledge. Is there something else I can try instead of pledge.
Like clearcoat for cars. To get a mirror look instead an orage peel it needs to be applied strongly
I wonder a) what metal this is made of and 2) if it's electrically conductive after being applied.
Hey Rex, to touch up a chrome car emblem (toyota), that cant be removed from the car...would you recommend trying to dab these to create a little pool and then using a fine brush to touch the damaged parts of the badge? I don't know how well it's to compare to an electroplated factory chrome though.
Can't compare electroplating, that's the best. But that will work. You can tty Green Stuff World Chrome for brushing, they make both, brush on and airbrush on.
@Barbatos Rex thanks for the reply. Very much appreciated 🙏
Get video, what did you use to clean the airbrush with when you were done shooting the Chrome?
Alcohol and then acetone
What sealer did you use for the molotow chrome liquid?
I watched a diff video of a guy he was using the market instead of air brushing & he tried a few diff dealers & he liked (Alclad II)
Have you ever tried tinting the chrome with alcohol inks? I’d like to have a black chrome that I can apply with a marker.
I am convinced that molotow chrome would be the best option for chrome effects, now a doubt, does it accept varnish for protection?
EXCELLENT! I'M GOING TO TRY THE MOLOTOW CHROME MARKER IN MY AIRBRUSHS.
What is the suggested cure time for the molotow chrome if airbrushed, and does it need a clear if I intend clean and dust my models regularly.
Hello
Hi, thanks for the video, very good and helpful. Maybe I missed but can you please advise the psi or bar level of compressor?
15 to 18 psi
Hi can I use this on Metal? Do I also need a primer first? Thx
Yes you can use this on metal no problem. A primer helps with durability but it's not needed
Almost seems like it would be best to dip parts in it so it's on all at once and not being dried as you go by the airbrush. Not sure if a rotating drying holder would help. Might keep the paint level and sag free. But also may effect the cured look because the paint is still moving around a constantly while spinning. Unlike a piece of paper or similar, sitting flat and still on a table.
Can you spray candy colors on top to make colored chrome? I have been looking for chrome paints that does not lose its "chrome" when layered with top coat. Most of the chrome paints becomes just grey when layered with candy color or even just a clear top coat.
I didn't have a problem spraying candy colors over this or Alclad Chrome. I actually just sprayed chrome over a piece painted red and that looked great. You can see it in my latest picture in my community section of my channel
@@barbatosrex9473 Thank you! I hope I can find something similar in my country so I could try this.
I wonder if you could use that with the gundam marker airbrush system. That paticuler size might not fit but would be interesting to see.
Probably would work. Gundam Markers now have there own chrome marker and it's great. That would work on the marker airbrush system
Hi sir,
I have little knowledge about painting with an airbrush. Could you please tell me what solvent you use to clean the paint cup after using the liquid chrome?
A shot of lacquer thinner or Acetone. Check out my latest video on cleaning the airbrush between colors. That should help you
@@barbatosrex9473 Thank you, that's very helpful.
Is Mirco Gloss great on all chrome paint? Would it keep the same chrome shine after use?
Most clear coats on top of chrome takes away the chrome look. A recent video I tested AK Interactive 1K Super Gloss and that one seems to do a decent job
Any updates on this and what you found for durability? I tried this and it sat for weeks, but never fully cured.
Even if you allow it several months to fully cure, it will all the same be vulnerable to handling. On top of that, (no pun intended) Molotow Liquid Chrome is notoriously difficult to protect with a clear coat because just about anything you spray on it will either visibly dull the shine or obliterate it entirely. Hence why, despite its brilliance, the product remains a no-go for *serious* modelers. (Speaking of whom, they also apparently don't consider spoons as adequate test mules). It is so frustratingly redundant to see video after video conduct the same damn experiment without bothering to learn from the tests that came way before and thus with nothing new to add except more confusion.
Lastly, it's important to understand that the way Molotow works is completely different from those other metalics by AKA, Alclad II, Spaz Stix, etc. In fact, you could almost say it's the exact opposite - not only do you hose it down, as opposed to sneaking up with thin layers, but also, because of it's self-leveling nature, you don't really need to undercoat it either. This test, instead of trying different undercoats, which was an needless waste of time, should've focused on topcoats.
If you'd care for a... still not quite perfect but heck of a lot more *useful* experiment that came two whole years before this one, here's a link: ua-cam.com/video/bRZgtjekfgU/v-deo.html
(Sorry that it's not in English).
@@IllusionSector yeah, I'm aware of the basics of this product, which was why I was asking about how well, if at all, the top coat worked for it. It's a shame, because it looks great, it's just not a great product for everyday use.
Do you think I can use that, on marvel legends or star wars black series, or that type of soft plastic figures
If you can get a primer to stick to it first then you shouldn't have a problem. Primer first, Gloss Black next then the chrome
@@barbatosrex9473 nice thanks for the tip
how do you clean the brush after spray the chrome? thanks!
Same as any other lacquer paint. Just flush it with thinner or Acetone
@barbatosrex9473 thanks, and any recommends for the varnish?
@@karlcheng_5210if you're not going to handle the model after it's built then I would go without a Varnish. The Varnish kills the chrome look
I love your vids. I was hoping to find another on the molotow clear coat results? Everything I have tried that I had on hand dulled it. Let me know what you found I would really appreciate it.
So does it hold up good at the end? I tried searching your channel but cant seem to find the follow-up video.
It fully cures in about a week. Have you seen my latest video on Super Chrome?
@barbatos Rex where did you get that exact airbrush? I need one
That's a GSI Procon Boy PS-289 0.3mm , it's my favorite airbrush. I love it, get one here
spraygunner.com?aff=10 It will actually make you better at airbrushing
What pressure did you spray at?
hi ! any varnish that does not destroy the chrome effect?
The best I can find so far is Alclad Aqua Gloss and Vallejo Metal arnish. You will lose a bit of the chrome effect for sure, but I will be testing out 2k Auto gloss soon to see what that does to it
Hey man, hope you are good. I've tried the Molotow out but I left it for 3 days to cure and it still dulls when I touched it, Also tried some clear coats on it and the immediately dulled the mirror finish. Did you ever test the durability or any clear coats over it.
I just got some pledge floor protector so may try that out and see if it gives a better result, thanks man - excellent video.
Hello. Did you ever use the Pledge? I'd like to know because I just air brushed some wheels with Molotow.
@@bradbroemmer9106 Hi Brad, no unfortunately not, I haven't had the chance to.
@@anthonyricco5522 Any updates on your trial of the pledge?
@@tallmanwsor hi there - no - sorry haven't had a chance yet.
I wonder how it would look if you sprayed a clear coat on top
Clear coat on top ruined the chrome look. Check out my video on the best clear coat for Alclad Chrome
I know it's been a while since this video was made but have you found any successful clear coats to use over the molotow liquid mirror? I tried using some Super Clear III to no avail, any suggestions? Thanks, I love your vids, keep it up!
Nothing so far, the best thing was Alclad Aqua Gloss
@@barbatosrex9473have you tried pledge floor shine?
Would a Clearwater help the rough surface... ??
Well it did dry super smooth
How did you clean the airbrush?
Acetone
What pressure did you use? Did you have to thin it at all to spray it?
I didn't thin it, 18 psi
I would love an update on this, especially if you found out details on clear coats and durability. From my experience nothing worked (that didnt dull the shine) except the Spaz Stix product. And then its was hit or miss even then.
I have found the the Vallejo acrylic clear does not smudge the chrome
@@Mecustoms17 The regular Model Color clear, the Mecha Color clear, or the Metal Gloss clear, out of curiosity? Or does it not matter?
I've heard the Metal Gloss one also works on Alclad, but I haven't tried it myself, so... 🤷♂️
What needle and how many PSI did you use?
15 psi
FINALLY!!!! I’ve been waiting for this video!!!!!!!!! I have one myself, and it’s one of the most used tools in my painting Arsenal. Have you gotten my email yet? And my the way, to open them, you can pop open the top, rather than doing everything you went through.
I was very impressed by your Gundam build. Excellent work. Keep it up. Your skills are great
@@barbatosrex9473 Thank you so much! You’re such an inspiration to me, so it means so much to me! I am now working on a candy painting on my rg wing zero gundam, and I’m going a lot of fading and stuff, from the burnt exhaust tutorial you made. Do you have any criticisms on the freedom? I’d love to hear if you did.
I 100% agree! This is great stuff.....BUT! Now what? What do you do to effectively protect it. I have tried nearly everything, from E7, Pledge, Aquagloss clearcoat....everything kills the shine. If you...breathe on, touch, look sideways at, or even mention it's name disparagingly....it will fog! 🤪 LOTS of good chromes out there, Krylon Foil is one, out of the can....the secret sauce here is....what clearcoat will protect it, and maintain the shine! Now I will step down, off of my box. 🙃
congrats on 1k!
Thanks buddy, took awhile but all of a sudden the last couple months my vids started to get noticed. A ton more planned
What sort of Tamiya clear coat did he use?
Check out my latest video on top coatings for chrome
Can you apply acrylic metallic paints on top of this chrome?
Yes, no problem at all
I save my old testors paint jars for paint mixing in small batches. Just Goo Gone the labels off or use a plastic scraper & a little paint stripper on a paper towel to clean residue.
Rex, was the durability test ever done?
I searched your videos for "molotow" and didn't see one. Was it mentioned in another video w/out Molotow in the title? Thanks
great video, can you use the black gloss base as a finish cote? Or is it strictly base paint. Also, could you give me a link to the airbrush you used in this video?
Have you ever tried Alumaluster?
I haven't, what exactly is it?
Thanks for this advice!
Would this be a good base coat for metallics?
I would go with Alclad silver base, Wicked Candy O silver base, Stynylrez silver primer or Splash Hyper silver
I appreciate how much money you save me. Genuinely, and it seems like you have a great time doing the tests that save us money :D
NAIL POLISH TEST LOLOL YESSSS
Good tip on the dropper bottles! I have been using empty Alclad bottles for storage but it doesn't have the dropper tool and I'm highly resistant to using disposable pipettes. I produce enough waste as is, you know? The cool thing about empty Alclad bottles is that a lot of them have labels you can basically erase with lacquer thinner and then use a sharpie for your own info. But it doesn't have that dropper which I want so badly.
Have you considered streaming your building processes? Its not a thing everyone enjoys doing but a lot of folk find this type of content to be relaxing, satisfying, and educational. I've been encouraged to look into it because I love this hobby so much but my content would be "Learn from me by watching me fail repeatedly and do things I really shouldn't do."
I've been thinking about a build video a couple things hold me back. I would need better equipment for filming and editing for sure. And I love to listen to my music when I build, in particular metal music. Plus there's so many great builders here that it's really intimidating to me. I feel I wouldn't want to watch me after seeing these other great builders : )
did you apply a clear over the molotow at some point?
i used the pen to apply it to a figure, let it cure for about a week, I grabbed it by where I applied it and it smudged real easily. Looking for a clear to use to pair it with to protect the chrome shine.
I use two clears to coat my chrome. Aqua Gloss by Alclad and Vallejo Metal Varnish. I cured my Molotow in a food dehydrator as it was taking forever to cure. But either of these will work. I really like the Metal Varnish
@@barbatosrex9473 when you cured it , did it still smudge ?
This is easily my favourite chrome paint, it's not cheap but it's a dream to work with. Word of advice: Mr. Leveling Thinner is perfect for thinning it, you add a little bit and it gets much easier to airbrush (and self-levels too). Any lacquer thinner should work but Mr. Leveling Thinner is my favourite.
Mr Leveling Thinner is my favorite item on my bench. When I'm half way down in the bottle I get more 😉 it's the best, I thin almost everything with it but forgot to with Molotow. Thanks for the tip.
@@barbatosrex9473 it says it’s alcohol base so wouldn’t you get better result thinning with alcohol? I don’t know I’m genuinely asking.
@@jamesfair9751 you can use either one. Like Tamiya paints, even though most use alcohol I use Leveling Thinner
@@jamesfair9751 Most alcohol-based paints can be thinned with hobby-grade lacquer thinners, and semi-gloss and glossy ones actually tend to thin better with some type of retarding additive (which is the difference between Mr. Leveling Thinner and regular Mr. Color Thinner, the Leveling Thinner has Drying Retarder in it to slow drying and allow the paint to level out while drying). I use it for all of my Tamiya X acrylics and all my Mr. Hobby Aqueous acrylics.
You can also use Mr. Rapid Thinner for flat finish alcohol-based acrylics. I use it with the Tamiya XF acrylics.
I read your comment and tried it. It does work well, but I also tried pure ethanol and it worked even better. Tried other thinners but they were bad (tamiya laquer, tamiya acrylic and store laquer)
Tip for your airbrush technique - keep the air ON in between strokes, it'll reduce spatter.
I will keep that in mind. I had to change my technique a bit because of the camera. Still getting used to it
I’m also starting to use the molotow chrome, can you please tell me how long it needs to dry? Thank you
Mine fully cured in about a week
What happens if you polish the paint?
You must wait a good amount of time before even attempting it but I would only lightly buff it with a polishing cloth
Available in 30ml 'pen refill' tube.
I found on Amazon bulk box of glass eye droppers. Washable, can sit in lacquer or paint thinner to dissolve dried paint. I wash in my sonic cleaner, but one is not necessary. Box has lasted many, many years. Rubber bulb has never dried or cracked. I also don't get thinner in the bulb, but wash with soap & water anyway. Box must be at least 20 years old, no exageration.
Why not just get Spazstix Mirror Chrome? have great results with it on my Rc bodies. I just bought one of these to use for window trim
I have a video on Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome. Check it out on my channel. Great stuff
there are refill bottles which contain 30ml for about 20€. how much was in that marker (with a 3 or 4 ml content) which cost about 7€. dripstick refill is 250ml for about 9€...
I am wondering what you would do if you needed to imitate a chrome or polished silver on an actual piece of wood? The wood actually is a very fine vine that has been dried out. The surface is fairly tight so I don't think it will absorb like a sponge. Any thoughts on how to do this? Thanks!
You need to seal the wood with a Varnish. Once it dries sand it smooth then put a primer over it. Then Gloss black. From there you put the chrome
@@barbatosrex9473 Thanks for your advice!
I bought an aftermarket grill in plastic for my car and I want to paint the honeycomb in Chrome. What is your recommendation?
I wouldn't use the ones for models I test for outside use. I have tested Krylon Foil colors. Those might work better for you outside
Do you think thinning this stuff with something would make it spray on smoother, yet still look chromey?
It is alcohol based like Green stuff world chrome it cuts with isopropo alcohol 99%
Great tests on these Chrome paints. Which would you use if building the Tamiya Mercedes GT3 as the Linkin Park Chrome livery
I would go with Alclad. Their black chrome is awesome
With what and by how much do you thin your gloss black base? Thanks in advance!
Alclad Gloss Black Base is Pre-Thinned so use it straight out of the bottle. But I've used just about everything for a black base. Tamiya Gloss Black spray can, Mr Color black, Testors black spray cans and more.
Don't thin Alclad Black, if your going to use a lacquer like Mr Color thin at least 50/50, if your using an Acrylic thin it 60/40. If using an enamel go with 50/50 also
The chrome stars inside the front and rear badges on my 2006 subaru have become water damaged and I'm going to use this to refurbish them.
Thumbs up btw.
I wonder if it was the type of base that gave you trouble. Enamel spray paint has given me hell so many times when I try to layer over it. Sometimes it works fine, other times it's a nightmare. Even when fully cured for a long time.
Rex does evaporate quickly like alclad? Printing labels....your nuts lmao
Didn't seem to like Alclad. It's a bit thicker so that probably slows the process. The spoons look even better now that they have dried for a few hours
@@barbatosrex9473 cant remember if i asked you already but have you experimented with spaz yet?
@@michaelbaykara2322 Spaz is coming in the week. Got the clear coat too. Test next weekend 👍
@@barbatosrex9473 very cool thanks Rex
How durable was it
It's not the most durable. Took weeks before it truly hardened. Duralumen Tuff Chrome is a good durable chrome. That's available on Etsy
Thank you so much for all these test videos. I'm curious - which do you like better - Molotow Chrome or Spaz Stix? I have just a plastic headlight casing on a tank bicycle that I need to "chrome" and I have never worked with an airbrush. I'm good with spray paint though.
The Spaz Stix is my pick
@@barbatosrex9473 I haven't had any luck with the airbrushing the Molotow or Spaz Stix or even Stuart Temple's Chrome paint. The paint comes out blotchy with some bright and chromey sections and others that are more of a dull silver like you would get from a Krylon spray can. Wondering what I'm doing wrong. Could it be humidity? Too big or too small of an airbrush needle? I am spraying an area that's about 5" by 5" - not just a spoon. Anyway, I have really learned a lot from watching your videos! Thank you so much.
@@streamlinemoderne fill me in. Airbrush your using, air pressure, what state or country are you in.
have you tried clearcoating the spoons after the paint cured?
I actually did today. With the best clear I have, 2K clear. I takes away the chrome effect a bit, doesn't quit look like chrome any more. But it doesn't look awful either. But if you want protection it's not going to look like this at all. But if you don't need the durability I'd leave it alone. If your going to use it on a model that's going to be sitting on a shelf I would leave it alone.
Awesome video sir. Still watching it, but I wish you would have tried to clear a few of them so we can see what works. Either way thank you sir.
I'll clear some and post a Pic in the community section
In a weeks time, can you do a durability test on this please? Also how well does it respond to Clear? What about Liquid Gold? I have a need for this in my current project, but I'd really like to know it's going to work as a long term solution.
I will be testing the durability soon. I will put a clear on it too. Plus a new chrome test for Spaz Stix including their special clear coat is coming soon, before the weekend
Just found your channel great tips thank you, quick question what type of airbrush do you use and psi level
GSI Creos Mr Hobby Procon Boy Platinum usually around 20psi. You can also control the air flow from this particular airbrush. Have you seen my video on my full airbrush set up? I go over everything and I have links to the airbrush there. Thanks for watching