Thank you for this video. It helped me align my bed and get back to printing. A couple things I did differently: I used calipers to measure from the boom down to each side of the bed, and I used a soft clamp to secure the left side Z-motor coupling so it would be stationary while I adjusted the right side coupling.
There's a much better way to do this, use 4 cd cases or else 4 game cases and set 2 on each side of the build plate, together, then lower the gantry down till its resting on them, put the extruder right in the center, of them so it's not in the way, and u also want to push the build plate back so the gantry is exactly in the middle, as well as centering the game cases so there also exactly in the middle of the build plate on each side, you can use 2 cases one on each side, but I think its more accurate with 4, then once u got the exact same weight on either set of cases retighten the gears on the top of the belt and relevel etc.little better than eyeballing it
^^^^^^This option gets you a more accurate tweak. I didn't have cassette tape cases or anything at first. I had some pill bottles hanging around that were tall enough that I could put one on each side after loosening the screws. The bottles weren't a great option because they are fairly soft plastic but they worked pretty well for the purpose intended. This method is really good because it essentially "levels" the gantry for the hot end. It's even better if you can find something that you know is exactly the same size and is sturdy enough to put under each side without deviation of soft materials. Thanks for adding your method because, it is better.
I found this made very little difference to mine with the CD cases. Problem is also a lot of the tutorials I have seen are not clear what to actually adjust. They just tell you to loosen tighten this not or that screw but dont actually show you it being done. At least this tutorial shows you which screws etc to do. As an example one said you need to loosen the 3 eccentric nuts on both sides of the platform but the 3 Pro only has 2 eccentric nuts one each side. The other rollers are just bolts/nuts. I managed to figure it out with the CD case trick but like I said it made very little difference. Will give Russell's a go.
@@varkanoidThis is the first video I have seen where the actual instructions on how to adjust this level were shown. UNBELIEVABLE that Elegoo has no videos about this. Thankfully I found this one.
i just measured (Calliper with 0.01mm Accuracy) the distance between the axis and the buildplate und the left and right side and made sure it is the same, measuring works like a charm
If I may suggest - It would be good to check that the build plate is perpendicular to the Z columns in both the x and y directions, before making this adjustment. Otherwise your model could have an angled face on its base relative to any vertical surface or plane on the model.
Thank you for this video. It helped me align my bed and get back to printing. A couple things I did differently: I used calipers to measure from the boom down to each side of the bed, and I used a soft clamp to secure the left side Z-motor coupling so it would be stationary while I adjusted the right side coupling.
This method reduced my auto-bed-leveling deviations by a factor of 5. Very very good! Thanks!
Just tried this and there was a massive improvement to the level of the bed so thanks very much.
Your Videos helped me out a lot, thanks so much!
Great videos!
Would you make regarding the correct belt tension? Thanks ;)
There's a much better way to do this, use 4 cd cases or else 4 game cases and set 2 on each side of the build plate, together, then lower the gantry down till its resting on them, put the extruder right in the center, of them so it's not in the way, and u also want to push the build plate back so the gantry is exactly in the middle, as well as centering the game cases so there also exactly in the middle of the build plate on each side, you can use 2 cases one on each side, but I think its more accurate with 4, then once u got the exact same weight on either set of cases retighten the gears on the top of the belt and relevel etc.little better than eyeballing it
^^^^^^This option gets you a more accurate tweak. I didn't have cassette tape cases or anything at first. I had some pill bottles hanging around that were tall enough that I could put one on each side after loosening the screws. The bottles weren't a great option because they are fairly soft plastic but they worked pretty well for the purpose intended. This method is really good because it essentially "levels" the gantry for the hot end. It's even better if you can find something that you know is exactly the same size and is sturdy enough to put under each side without deviation of soft materials. Thanks for adding your method because, it is better.
I found this made very little difference to mine with the CD cases. Problem is also a lot of the tutorials I have seen are not clear what to actually adjust. They just tell you to loosen tighten this not or that screw but dont actually show you it being done. At least this tutorial shows you which screws etc to do. As an example one said you need to loosen the 3 eccentric nuts on both sides of the platform but the 3 Pro only has 2 eccentric nuts one each side. The other rollers are just bolts/nuts. I managed to figure it out with the CD case trick but like I said it made very little difference. Will give Russell's a go.
@@varkanoidThis is the first video I have seen where the actual instructions on how to adjust this level were shown. UNBELIEVABLE that Elegoo has no videos about this. Thankfully I found this one.
i just measured (Calliper with 0.01mm Accuracy) the distance between the axis and the buildplate und the left and right side and made sure it is the same, measuring works like a charm
i loosened all the screws but when i want to adjust one side the other side moves the same way. I cant move the left or right side seperately
Thanks man, helped alot 🍻🤝
If I may suggest - It would be good to check that the build plate is perpendicular to the Z columns in both the x and y directions, before making this adjustment. Otherwise your model could have an angled face on its base relative to any vertical surface or plane on the model.
does not work