If you find an old gas stove you can rob one or all of the top burner orifices off it. They would work very well because they are adjustable for any gas whether natural or propane and any pressure. That way you can adjust them to the exact flame you need instead of changing out with different drilled orifices. Also get an adjustable air inlet instead of drilling holes in the bell reducer. You’ll get a better air & gas mixture. The gas pressure should be adjusted to 7 ounces of pressure for propane. FYI I’m an ole appliance technician. Hope this info helps .
When I build my pig cookers I turn the pipe with the slots down that puts the flame output out the bottom and it cascades up around the pipe making it light easier and the flame will travel the length of the pipe fast to light all of the cut slots. It also stops the slots from getting clogged up from the grease drippings. You have a great design,
iam so thankfull for your video explaining sharing love idea how to choose best mm whole . i want to make pizza oven and now with your video help me a lot
I really like your video. I am wanting to build a commercial kitchen and I am a welder. I want to make a very high quality griddle with a thick steel plate as my primary cook top. But I also want to make several heavy duty burner stands for big pots. I have always been entrigued by burners and always wondered how these things were regulated. Thanks for making this video it helps a lot.
Great work. Assuming a gas differential pressure of 11.25 in wc, the flow rate through the orifice (1.2 mm) is 0.755 lb/h or 15390 btu/h or 4.5 kW. In order to have stoichiometric combustion you need 15.73 lb of air per lb of gas. For the configuration given the ratio of entrained mass of air per mass of gas is 16.74 (7% excess air). That's why your final flame is beautifully blue. Smaller diameters will yield lean combustion and larger diameters will result in rich combustion as your results show.
Great video! Also very good idea on using the gas ball valve. I want to make a burner for my cast iron smoker and turn it into a grill. I wasn't sure how to make the valves. So I'm going to use these. Thanks, keep up the great work. Your video is by far the best educational video on UA-cam. You explained everything and showed everything extremely well.
great video. Was having trouble finding how people were controlling their flame. I didn't even think of using a ball valve. Now I just need to work on the fittings so I can use a tubing bender to get the bends I need.
1mm with fewer slits would work as well. Glad I found this video, Ive been wondering how to do this for years but never even attempted it. Now I will. I wish you had made a material list and a few specs. But we can make a list by watching it again. So now make a four burner set :o) I was just thinking that you could weld the slits right down the center to force the flames to the sides since it was too hard to drill them. Plus what Mike Idol said before me.
Very cool! Just a thought on the air intake holes that got drilled into the reducing coupling, I suspect the reason they didn't seem to make a difference was they were on the burner side of the orifice so there was no Venturi effect to pull air in. If the orifice was inserted deeper into the coupling, past them, perhaps they would have been effective? But, it ends up being a
Nice build. Very good video with excellent commentary explains sizes & detail perfect. Smaller orifice so limited the flame. Wonder if flame mixture can be improved with the larger orifice by having a larger diameter ss tube or making the outlet holes larger. I think your limitation is because the smaller holes are creating back pressure that is preventing enough incoming air. Larger burn holes will relieve the pressure and allow the air to continue with the higher volume of gas.
Great video Likely you could get the flame to clean up by gettig orifice closer to the 1" tube. It will pickup velocity and draw more air to mix. Like to see if that helps.
A tuned blue flame is most efficient and produces the maximum amount of heat for the gas burned and with a blue flame you don't get sooting or staining on utensils pans and kettles along with a more efficient burn. I've recently tuned the flame on an old Calor Gas twin burner oven cooker with the aeration screws to blue running on Calor Gas 7kg Butane cylinders and it works fine. You do get very slight yellow tips at the top of the flame on the oven burner running on butane but is not serious enough to cause issues. The oven flame on Calor Gas propane cylinders is largely blue.
How clean the video looks HD nice job. The problem we all have, is how to clean the grease in the tubes. it will saturate, the problem there will continue in the cuts where the gas comes out 👍
“Flavor bars” or grease deflectors over the top of the burners like they have in most grill. I like angle iron instead of sheet metal. Lasts forever in comparison.
The tip of the orifice should be mounted closer to the entry of the burner tube. The gas exiting from the nozzle is what creates the ventury effect and must in front of the air entry holes , the ventury effect is increased the closer it is to the burner tube,
Dam iam not going to say anything about the music i didnt even listen to it till i started reading all this comments women leave NICE VIDEO THANKS YOU SAVED ME SOME MONEY
They're super easy to make. I've built dozens for different tanks or purposes. I've used homemade injectors and ones taken off old heaters and burners. The real pain in the ass is the steel you're most likely to try first is hardware store tube and this often has insanely hard spots in random places. Those spots will kill the worlds best drill bits and band saws instantly. Aluminum tube is less costly when compared to ruined drills or saw blades. Hardware store welding flat, angle and round stock can be just as bad on occasion. So word of warning to those new to this, try aluminum tubing or black iron pipe. Iron pipe drills like a dream. Most large hardware stores will have black iron 3/4 in lengths of up to 5 feet and threaded on either end. So a reducer fits on as does a cap. You just need to make the mount and injector.
Another option to drilling the tiny orifice hole and to avoid breaking those tiny drill bits is to use Mig welding tips which come in various sizes to suit the range of Mig wires, then all you need do is to drill and tap a hole sized to suit the mig tip thread.
They make pointed jets that screw inside the nipple - but you have to have the nipple with the small hole to thread to 1/4-20 thread for the jet and the tapered point allows more and smoother air flow. Also since it is inside the nipple the whole nipple can be removed great for fish cookers and Cast burners from factory that need different jet size.
First I would like to say job well thought out and well done. Really like the slots vs having to drill all those holes and the heavier higher quality stainless should certainly outlast the rest of a typical grill. Can't accurately tell how many have gone to the recycler because of burned out tubes. It is ridiculous how cheaply the burn tubes are built. Even if built out of common black steel the extra material would likely make them last longer. As it relates to this project, first I would try covering the holes drilled in the bell of the reducer because they could be bleeding off a tiny bit of the gas air mixture due to their position in relation to the "jet" of gas. Next I would thin the profile of the flat bar holding the jet and nipple assembly down by 2/3rds taking a 1/3 from each side of the bar starting at each edge of the reducer to as close to the nipple as practical to reduce any possible impediment to the air flow being pulled in by the flow out of the jet. As an experiment I would build a new crossbar and drill out the center hole so that a long nipple could slide back and forth as a way to adjust the depth of the jet's position within the reducer to see if that might change the "draw" effect for a cleaner burn. Just some experimental ideas. For larger burners we found the narrow nose on a grease zerk with the spring and check ball removed seemed to mix the oxygen more efficiently than the interference field caused by the flat face of your drilled out cap. (Hope that concept makes sense.) Guess for the maximum venturi effect you could try tapping a hole in one of the already oversized caps so as to thread in a sports ball inflation needle that was cut off short to maximize the pressure differential with minimal interference to the air flow.
I wasn't sure making your own burners was safe to do. This is great. I want to use my powerarc to make some stoves this winter. A couple will be pellet but I want to make a propane grill as well.
I tried to make one like yours here in Brazil, but instead of crushing the end of the tube I closed it with a lid. And the flames get stronger in the end. Is this part where I went wrong? You did a great job, congratulations! Please answer me, thanks.
i think moving the position of the end cap with the 1/16 in hole forward or back may help focus the airflow to achieve your desired airflow. maybe test with an open end 4in tube no slots to get the best torch and then use the big tube and add slots as u test so u know how many slots to put in.
You might do some trials moving the nozzle further into the reducer rather than right at the maximal open end of the reducer. This might increase your venturi dragging more air into the pipe and improving your mixture ratio. Just a thought.
Thanks so much for the video and others. Thanks too, for the replies below and remedies for small issues. Utube makes me so much smarter than I ever will or would be.
To get more power there are two ways. One method is to increase the velocity of the gas coming out of the orifice (by increasing the pressure) which will decrease the pressure just after the orifice in order to suck in more air (oxygen). This would require replacing the regulator with either a fixed or variable regulator set to a higher pressure or removing the regulator altogether. Otherwise make a second orifice in parallel with the first (ie. put a "T" after the ball valve and put an orifice on either end of the "T") then feed the two flows together in a "Y" configuration back into the burner to double the amount of air (oxygen) that can be mixed with the propane. As you increase the orifice size the amount of propane increases in ratio to the orifice area (discounting any losses), whilst the oxygen remains fairly constant (same suction if propane is coming out at the same velocity).
I think you also have to take into account the size of the holes you drill. I think they should equal the cross sectional area of the tube, so there's no restriction.
would using an end cap for the wide flared end of the reducer have been better then you could drill 4 large outer holes and one central hole for the gas pipe to go thru ?
Slice cut are far better than drilling but at the same time you have created a venturi system are you still getting plenty of yellow flame un spent gas ? This is where jet ajustment comes in handy , if you used thicker bar stock or laid a thick block behind your bar stock drill that out then come from top and put a screwlock in on the jet add a 2 " long piece of pipe . Between jet and valuve so you can ajust your jet this will may regulate your air flow and give you a nice blue flame . My forges have been venturi .. And get 4 sizes less of the bit you using for the jet . Or a mig orface this may be a #72 or #65 orface drill bit .one or the other will give you that blue flame and save you from wasting gas .
Tired of paying hundreds of dollars on BBQ grills that don't last, rust and fall apart. Most are junk right out of the box. Great ideas on building my own. Thank you!
You'll likely get much better flow control with a needle valve placed inline. I like the ball valve, but they are really only for quick on-off control; it's very difficult to control flow with a ball valve.
Could this have been made with the appropriate threaded pipe with slits cut that would have been screwed onto the reducer with a end cap ? Does the end cap with the 1.2 mm hole stop just short of entering the SS pipe? And this doesn't cause a flame at the end cap?
If I was to make a bigger gas burner for my barbecue like twice the size does that mean I would get twice the heat on my way Weber BBQ so I could make my own serious stashen
Great video! That is so awesome how you basically break the "grillbuilding industry" down. Is it possible to contact Andrew? I need help to get rid of the plastic problem of our time. chris from bavaria
Like the proverbial frog in a pot of water being slowly brought to a boil, we have been conditioned to expect that we should be throwing things away after a shorter and shorter lifespan. When cellphones first came out, we expected to use them for 5 or even 10 years. Now we're made to feel cheap if we keep them more than a year. That's all the batteries last now anyway, and they are no longer replaceable in most cases.
Hello!!your construction is awesome!! I just made 2 same burners but while the first burner works perfect, the other one does not have a good blazing fire .. no idea what it may be? It has blue fire but its abnormal and makes a horrible sound!! Thank you!!
This's actually very similar to making a forge burner except where u drilled your hole in the end cap you would normally try to use a mig welder contact tip w/an .045" hole as it seems to work alot more like a real jet then the hole drilled in a very thin cap. This may actually improve the grill burner too as it makes a huge difference in the forge burner. It makes enough of a difference that I can actually meet steel with my little forge, which many can't. The style burner also work unbelievable for making your own small propane torch burner as it will get MUCH hotter then any one that you can buy anywhere. If anyone's interested in that just look up making a forge burner here and just step down the size of everything a lil. To anyone making the grill burner: he uses a small plate to attach where the brass goes into the reducer, the less u can cover the large hole in the opening of that steel reducer the better airflow you'll have for this as he keeps having air issues during making this. Alota peeps when making the forge burner drill a hole in the side of the reducer & run the brass/copper tube through that hole and either bend the tube so it points down the tube, or u can just run a capped tube through the side and drill your hole so it points down the stainless tube. If u don't understand look up some of the forge burner vids to see. The point of doing this is because u want as little air restriction as possible at that big opening and that plate reduces more then it should. That's why the drilled holes were needed in this video. These are called Venturi burners whether for a forge, propane torch, or gas grill burner. So even if your not interested in anything I wrote above if u run into any issues during your build these r really good things to reference & u will find alot of great solutions as metal workers have had many, many years to dial there's in perfectly. Good luck people! 👍
@@alexshute9259 So if your only speaking of the fuel source delivery them it doesn't matter, whatever works best for your application. But if you're talking about as another air intake then it shouldn't be necessary, as even with forge burners there's enough oxygen intake with that big flair. If you're purely speaking about the fuel source then it shouldn't matter that much. What that will basically come to is the size of the tubing/fitting used. Given that this fa grill or something similar that still shouldn't that critical. If you're talking about something like a forge them alot more comes into play. For grill or anything similar it shouldn't make any difference for you. It may take a few hours for me to rebut please feel free to hit up again if I didn't answer your question, or if you have more. Realistically a venturi tube is what I feel all burners should be using, as they draw as much oxygen as they require really. 👍
hola buenas noche, disculpa el idioma sera que esos quemadores se pueden adaptar, en forma de serie, osea 4 quemadores a la vez, para colocarlos a un horno panadero o para pizzas
You need to put the flange fitting farther back, and get a longer gas input tube. The Venturi effect will allow the flame to be adjusted more precisely
12:57 Might an improvement be to cut an additional slot, this one along the length of the burner crossing all the cross-cuts, so that the flame might automatically and surely propagate from one end to the other?
It will burn with a mixture of 3-17%. To get a clean burn it's best to adjust the air and let the jet be decided on the amount of kW you need. If your kW varies you can have adjustable air intakes. (Behind the jet outlet.)
If you find an old gas stove you can rob one or all of the top burner orifices off it. They would work very well because they are adjustable for any gas whether natural or propane and any pressure. That way you can adjust them to the exact flame you need instead of changing out with different drilled orifices. Also get an adjustable air inlet instead of drilling holes in the bell reducer. You’ll get a better air & gas mixture. The gas pressure should be adjusted to 7 ounces of pressure for propane. FYI I’m an ole appliance technician. Hope this info helps .
Man, this burner will outlast any grill you install it in. Great work.
Your fine tuning technique is the best
Brilliant video. Thanks. We are going to build our on pipe burners for own needs in the camp! Once again thanks.
When I build my pig cookers I turn the pipe with the slots down that puts the flame output out the bottom and it cascades up around the pipe making it light easier and the flame will travel the length of the pipe fast to light all of the cut slots. It also stops the slots from getting clogged up from the grease drippings. You have a great design,
Mike Idol o
Great tip!
Mark Harris yguhgug8
With a Griddle Top you're not gonna have any grease drippings....
I prefer out the side. Bottom burning causes more heat to the tube and shorten life.
iam so thankfull for your video explaining sharing love idea how to choose best mm whole . i want to make pizza oven and now with your video help me a lot
I really like your video. I am wanting to build a commercial kitchen and I am a welder. I want to make a very high quality griddle with a thick steel plate as my primary cook top. But I also want to make several heavy duty burner stands for big pots. I have always been entrigued by burners and always wondered how these things were regulated. Thanks for making this video it helps a lot.
Simple, but very effective. Well done.
Great work. Assuming a gas differential pressure of 11.25 in wc, the flow rate through the orifice (1.2 mm) is 0.755 lb/h or 15390 btu/h or 4.5 kW. In order to have stoichiometric combustion you need 15.73 lb of air per lb of gas. For the configuration given the ratio of entrained mass of air per mass of gas is 16.74 (7% excess air). That's why your final flame is beautifully blue. Smaller diameters will yield lean combustion and larger diameters will result in rich combustion as your results show.
hola Luis saludos. En conclusión que diámetros de los presentados seria el mejor?
Great video! Also very good idea on using the gas ball valve. I want to make a burner for my cast iron smoker and turn it into a grill. I wasn't sure how to make the valves. So I'm going to use these. Thanks, keep up the great work. Your video is by far the best educational video on UA-cam. You explained everything and showed everything extremely well.
Awesome build. You don't need to heat the steel. It will weld to the other pice with out a problem.
great video. Was having trouble finding how people were controlling their flame. I didn't even think of using a ball valve. Now I just need to work on the fittings so I can use a tubing bender to get the bends I need.
Moving the orifice further into the venturi will draw more air.
Nice build.
1mm with fewer slits would work as well. Glad I found this video, Ive been wondering how to do this for years but never even attempted it. Now I will. I wish you had made a material list and a few specs. But we can make a list by watching it again.
So now make a four burner set :o)
I was just thinking that you could weld the slits right down the center to force the flames to the sides since it was too hard to drill them. Plus what Mike Idol said before me.
Very cool! Just a thought on the air intake holes that got drilled into the reducing coupling, I suspect the reason they didn't seem to make a difference was they were on the burner side of the orifice so there was no Venturi effect to pull air in. If the orifice was inserted deeper into the coupling, past them, perhaps they would have been effective? But, it ends up being a
Moot point since you got such a good flame in the end anyway. Great work!
I thought that too, drilling the venturi there didn't seem a good idea
You could tweak the flame color with an adjustable air inlet.
Nice build. Very good video with excellent commentary explains sizes & detail perfect.
Smaller orifice so limited the flame. Wonder if flame mixture can be improved with the larger orifice by having a larger diameter ss tube or making the outlet holes larger. I think your limitation is because the smaller holes are creating back pressure that is preventing enough incoming air. Larger burn holes will relieve the pressure and allow the air to continue with the higher volume of gas.
sweet ass engineering I loved being able to understand and diagnose and fix any gas burner in any crap barbeque.
Great video
Likely you could get the flame to clean up by gettig orifice closer to the 1" tube. It will pickup velocity and draw more air to mix. Like to see if that helps.
Please install spider guard cloth all around the reducer! Great work!
sí bueno maestro Yo quiero aprender a hacer eso quemadores que tengo un carrito de vender picalonga hijos los albergues y quiero aprender a hacer eso
A tuned blue flame is most efficient and produces the maximum amount of heat for the gas burned and with a blue flame you don't get sooting or staining on utensils pans and kettles along with a more efficient burn.
I've recently tuned the flame on an old Calor Gas twin burner oven cooker with the aeration screws to blue running on Calor Gas 7kg Butane cylinders and it works fine.
You do get very slight yellow tips at the top of the flame on the oven burner running on butane but is not serious enough to cause issues. The oven flame on Calor Gas propane cylinders is largely blue.
Well done, Sir.... Lots of food for thought! Thanks for sharing!
Great video. Well calibrated propane burner.
How clean the video looks HD nice job.
The problem we all have, is how to clean the grease in the tubes. it will saturate, the problem there will continue in the cuts where the gas comes out 👍
“Flavor bars” or grease deflectors over the top of the burners like they have in most grill. I like angle iron instead of sheet metal. Lasts forever in comparison.
The tip of the orifice should be mounted closer to the entry of the burner tube. The gas exiting from the nozzle is what creates the ventury effect and must in front of the air entry holes , the ventury effect is increased the closer it is to the burner tube,
clear explanation boss but could you please make trial for 1 orifice serve two pipes burner ..it will work properly ? thanks
Dam iam not going to say anything about the music i didnt even listen to it till i started reading all this comments women leave NICE VIDEO THANKS YOU SAVED ME SOME MONEY
Good made burner, wouldn't you get a better flame using an adjustable high pressure regulator on the propane bottle?
They're super easy to make.
I've built dozens for different tanks or purposes. I've used homemade injectors and ones taken off old heaters and burners.
The real pain in the ass is the steel you're most likely to try first is hardware store tube and this often has insanely hard spots in random places. Those spots will kill the worlds best drill bits and band saws instantly.
Aluminum tube is less costly when compared to ruined drills or saw blades.
Hardware store welding flat, angle and round stock can be just as bad on occasion.
So word of warning to those new to this, try aluminum tubing or black iron pipe. Iron pipe drills like a dream. Most large hardware stores will have black iron 3/4 in lengths of up to 5 feet and threaded on either end. So a reducer fits on as does a cap. You just need to make the mount and injector.
Very descriptive and clear explanation as to how you built that. Well done :-))
Great work Andrew.. really like your explanation and detailness of everything. Cheers from Sunny Australia
Great Video, Curious to know if you could use the head of a weed burner to attach to the tube?
My buddy used drilled out grease fittings. Do not remember all the details but it worked well for boiling crabs in large pot
Another option to drilling the tiny orifice hole and to avoid breaking those tiny drill bits is to use Mig welding tips which come in various sizes to suit the range of Mig wires, then all you need do is to drill and tap a hole sized to suit the mig tip thread.
holy crap the first person to mention CUTTING OIL not wd40 /engine oil ect / to drill tap 5 thumbs up great video
Irony of irony, my mini shipment of tap magic arrived today
Great video! Best explanation yet and I am glad you showed your experimentation process!
They make pointed jets that screw inside the nipple - but you have to have the nipple with the small hole to thread to 1/4-20 thread for the jet and the tapered point allows more and smoother air flow. Also since it is inside the nipple the whole nipple can be removed great for fish cookers and Cast burners from factory that need different jet size.
First I would like to say job well thought out and well done. Really like the slots vs having to drill all those holes and the heavier higher quality stainless should certainly outlast the rest of a typical grill. Can't accurately tell how many have gone to the recycler because of burned out tubes. It is ridiculous how cheaply the burn tubes are built. Even if built out of common black steel the extra material would likely make them last longer.
As it relates to this project, first I would try covering the holes drilled in the bell of the reducer because they could be bleeding off a tiny bit of the gas air mixture due to their position in relation to the "jet" of gas. Next I would thin the profile of the flat bar holding the jet and nipple assembly down by 2/3rds taking a 1/3 from each side of the bar starting at each edge of the reducer to as close to the nipple as practical to reduce any possible impediment to the air flow being pulled in by the flow out of the jet. As an experiment I would build a new crossbar and drill out the center hole so that a long nipple could slide back and forth as a way to adjust the depth of the jet's position within the reducer to see if that might change the "draw" effect for a cleaner burn. Just some experimental ideas. For larger burners we found the narrow nose on a grease zerk with the spring and check ball removed seemed to mix the oxygen more efficiently than the interference field caused by the flat face of your drilled out cap. (Hope that concept makes sense.) Guess for the maximum venturi effect you could try tapping a hole in one of the already oversized caps so as to thread in a sports ball inflation needle that was cut off short to maximize the pressure differential with minimal interference to the air flow.
I wasn't sure making your own burners was safe to do. This is great. I want to use my powerarc to make some stoves this winter. A couple will be pellet but I want to make a propane grill as well.
I am considering making my own pizza oven. I think a custom burner is going to be a major player in how it turns out.
Yes I would like to try the black iron
You could use welsh/freeze plugs for the ends pressed in & brazed
I tried to make one like yours here in Brazil, but instead of crushing the end of the tube I closed it with a lid. And the flames get stronger in the end. Is this part where I went wrong?
You did a great job, congratulations! Please answer me, thanks.
for a smoker I would want the 1.0mm orifice. I like the work.
Great job. Very impressed. 🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲
Great video,ideas and explaining awesome job, thank you for sharing, and keep it lit!!!
i think moving the position of the end cap with the 1/16 in hole forward or back may help focus the airflow to achieve your desired airflow. maybe test with an open end 4in tube no slots to get the best torch and then use the big tube and add slots as u test so u know how many slots to put in.
You might do some trials moving the nozzle further into the reducer rather than right at the maximal open end of the reducer. This might increase your venturi dragging more air into the pipe and improving your mixture ratio. Just a thought.
Excellent instructions! Thank you
Thanks so much for the video and others. Thanks too, for the replies below and remedies for small issues. Utube makes me so much smarter than I ever will or would be.
Can I get a link or what size regulator u used for the propane tank plz…. And great video too btw
anyone notice the "Media Offline" frame at 4:05 ?
To get more power there are two ways. One method is to increase the velocity of the gas coming out of the orifice (by increasing the pressure) which will decrease the pressure just after the orifice in order to suck in more air (oxygen). This would require replacing the regulator with either a fixed or variable regulator set to a higher pressure or removing the regulator altogether. Otherwise make a second orifice in parallel with the first (ie. put a "T" after the ball valve and put an orifice on either end of the "T") then feed the two flows together in a "Y" configuration back into the burner to double the amount of air (oxygen) that can be mixed with the propane. As you increase the orifice size the amount of propane increases in ratio to the orifice area (discounting any losses), whilst the oxygen remains fairly constant (same suction if propane is coming out at the same velocity).
8:00 😂 I choked on my drink laughing at this. Thx for the video guide. Very helpful.
I think you also have to take into account the size of the holes you drill. I think they should equal the cross sectional area of the tube, so there's no restriction.
would using an end cap for the wide flared end of the reducer have been better then you could drill 4 large outer holes and one central hole for the gas pipe to go thru ?
very good, one question: can I use normal iron to build the burner instead of stainless steel?
How long could you make this burner like in a 300 gal drum bbq needs to reach about 400 down to 150 degrees
could you make an winding S to warm a 2'x4' skillet from one tube that is either bended or welded?
Slice cut are far better than drilling but at the same time you have created a venturi system are you still getting plenty of yellow flame un spent gas ? This is where jet ajustment comes in handy , if you used thicker bar stock or laid a thick block behind your bar stock drill that out then come from top and put a screwlock in on the jet add a 2 " long piece of pipe . Between jet and valuve so you can ajust your jet this will may regulate your air flow and give you a nice blue flame . My forges have been venturi ..
And get 4 sizes less of the bit you using for the jet . Or a mig orface this may be a #72 or #65 orface drill bit .one or the other will give you that blue flame and save you from wasting gas .
Tired of paying hundreds of dollars on BBQ grills that don't last, rust and fall apart. Most are junk right out of the box. Great ideas on building my own. Thank you!
How to ensure that the propane gas won't flow back out from the air inlet? Are there any calculations and formulas to follow?
Awesome video! Any chance you could make one for a back yard propane fire pit?
have you ever used a larger reducer to run multiple feet of burner tube or multiple connected tubes?
Hi Andrew thank you for using metric measurements.
Great videos love your work.
You'll likely get much better flow control with a needle valve placed inline. I like the ball valve, but they are really only for quick on-off control; it's very difficult to control flow with a ball valve.
Great tip on the needle valve. I agree ball valves are better for on/off than adjustment.
Your ball valve and fittings, are they normal brass fittings(for water, fuel)? Or are they special gas fittings.
Could this have been made with the appropriate threaded pipe with slits cut that would have been screwed onto the reducer with a end cap ? Does the end cap with the 1.2 mm hole stop just short of entering the SS pipe? And this doesn't cause a flame at the end cap?
That’s the heat I want. What size pipe is needed as a manifold for a multi burner setup? Does the gas low evenly to each burner or is there a trick?
That looks good. Could I use copper tube for a round paella burner for 25 inch paella pan.
I really liked your video. How big of a diameter pipe do you think I would need for a five foot long burner? Thanks for the help.
If I was to make a bigger gas burner for my barbecue like twice the size does that mean I would get twice the heat on my way Weber BBQ so I could make my own serious stashen
Brilliant, answered all my questions 👍👍
Mild steel plate to cast iron reducer using stainless steel wire?
looks great - do you sale?
In cording to my conversions, that should be somewhere in the 16,000-17,000 btu range, that’s quite the burner
Olá amigo, pode fazer um vídeo mostrando o funcionamento de um queimador tubular italiano?
Great work l love it.. good video thanks for posting...
hello,what type of welding is he using ?
No need to preheat or use special rod or wire with the pipe fittings. They weld really well with normal mig or stick. Good job
is the wall thickness on the cast iron reducer thick enough for 6-32 or 8-32 treads. then i wouldnt have to weld on the brackets....peace out
I know this video was posted a long time ago but is there a limit on how long you could make it?
Great video! That is so awesome how you basically break the "grillbuilding industry" down.
Is it possible to contact Andrew? I need help to get rid of the plastic problem of our time.
chris from bavaria
Like the proverbial frog in a pot of water being slowly brought to a boil, we have been conditioned to expect that we should be throwing things away after a shorter and shorter lifespan. When cellphones first came out, we expected to use them for 5 or even 10 years. Now we're made to feel cheap if we keep them more than a year. That's all the batteries last now anyway, and they are no longer replaceable in most cases.
Hello!!your construction is awesome!! I just made 2 same burners but while the first burner works perfect, the other one does not have a good blazing fire .. no idea what it may be? It has blue fire but its abnormal and makes a horrible sound!!
Thank you!!
Do you have a build list for this?
I bought a 30 inches fire pit ring burner, it has yellow flames, I need blue flames, what can I do?
This's actually very similar to making a forge burner except where u drilled your hole in the end cap you would normally try to use a mig welder contact tip w/an .045" hole as it seems to work alot more like a real jet then the hole drilled in a very thin cap. This may actually improve the grill burner too as it makes a huge difference in the forge burner. It makes enough of a difference that I can actually meet steel with my little forge, which many can't. The style burner also work unbelievable for making your own small propane torch burner as it will get MUCH hotter then any one that you can buy anywhere. If anyone's interested in that just look up making a forge burner here and just step down the size of everything a lil. To anyone making the grill burner: he uses a small plate to attach where the brass goes into the reducer, the less u can cover the large hole in the opening of that steel reducer the better airflow you'll have for this as he keeps having air issues during making this. Alota peeps when making the forge burner drill a hole in the side of the reducer & run the brass/copper tube through that hole and either bend the tube so it points down the tube, or u can just run a capped tube through the side and drill your hole so it points down the stainless tube. If u don't understand look up some of the forge burner vids to see. The point of doing this is because u want as little air restriction as possible at that big opening and that plate reduces more then it should. That's why the drilled holes were needed in this video. These are called Venturi burners whether for a forge, propane torch, or gas grill burner. So even if your not interested in anything I wrote above if u run into any issues during your build these r really good things to reference & u will find alot of great solutions as metal workers have had many, many years to dial there's in perfectly. Good luck people! 👍
I know this is an old comment but would it be logical to make a notch in the large reducer, and then use a 90 degree fitting with a cap on one side?
@@alexshute9259 So if your only speaking of the fuel source delivery them it doesn't matter, whatever works best for your application. But if you're talking about as another air intake then it shouldn't be necessary, as even with forge burners there's enough oxygen intake with that big flair. If you're purely speaking about the fuel source then it shouldn't matter that much. What that will basically come to is the size of the tubing/fitting used. Given that this fa grill or something similar that still shouldn't that critical. If you're talking about something like a forge them alot more comes into play. For grill or anything similar it shouldn't make any difference for you. It may take a few hours for me to rebut please feel free to hit up again if I didn't answer your question, or if you have more. Realistically a venturi tube is what I feel all burners should be using, as they draw as much oxygen as they require really. 👍
I'd hope to see you make a video of you making an portable oven or even for a commercial oven, perfect for baking business. God bless you.
hola buenas noche, disculpa el idioma sera que esos quemadores se pueden adaptar, en forma de serie, osea 4 quemadores a la vez, para colocarlos a un horno panadero o para pizzas
Really enjoyed your video.
Sir what’s the length of the 1 inch tube n what’s the gauge of this 1 inch tube
Any reason you couldn't use a regular gas line pipe with a plug at the end that already has threads on it to put into the reducer fitting?
Have you built a full propane grill? If so where can I watch that video?
Can you make a video a long length burner 5 x of the length you make. For the purpose of my cassava cake isn’t can produce fire at the bottom? Thanks
You need to put the flange fitting farther back, and get a longer gas input tube. The Venturi effect will allow the flame to be adjusted more precisely
Are the holes for air inlet must ? What happens if I don't make air holes ?
Regards - Dr. N Das
12:57 Might an improvement be to cut an additional slot, this one along the length of the burner crossing all the cross-cuts, so that the flame might automatically and surely propagate from one end to the other?
Excellent very good work good luck 🌹🇸🇦👍🐪
It will burn with a mixture of 3-17%. To get a clean burn it's best to adjust the air and let the jet be decided on the amount of kW you need. If your kW varies you can have adjustable air intakes. (Behind the jet outlet.)
look into stainless steel weld fittings, schedule 10. they are nice and smooth inside with no threads, and would look good and wont rust!