Excellent video. Although your washer may vary slightly base don the model (mine had only two screws at the bottom of the front panel and the drain tube housing was not attached to the front panel) these instructions make this an easy repair for almost anyone. One tip: you *will* need a 10" extension for your socket wrench to get to the bolts on the rear shocks. Go buy that now, before you start.
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
These videos are awesome. I moved my washing machine for a couple of months for a house reno. I've put it back and now find on the spin it vibrates to the point of shutting down. What needs fixing or looking at. Much appreciated!
George Reichert There are a few possible causes of washer vibration. Enter your washing machine's model number in our website's repair help section for model-specific troubleshooting for this issue. www.repairclinic.com/repairhelp?TLSID=1773.
Just for future reference if you plan on moving a front load washer to another house: Keep the shipping bolts that came with the machine originally and re-use them. They keep the tub and suspension from getting stressed during transport.
At 2:08 lifting the machine is not quite as light as it appears for this guy. My washer weighs 221lbs. Luckily mine is installed on an optional drawer pedestal assembly and the 3 screws are accessible without tilting the washer. Just pull the drawer out and there's enough room for a screwdriver. Also note that the 2 rear shock absorbers might be a different part number. On my machine they are part DC66-00470B.
Fixed my front shocks…was hoping that would do the trick…it didn’t. Gotta replace the rear ones. Great video though. Hope changing all four fixes the issue.
@@blueskyvibes no, I think the bearings were worn. Watched a video on that. Basically had to disassemble the entire machine to replace bearings…don’t have patience or room in my garage for that. Bought a new machine from Lowe’s. They were on special. These newer machines are not built to last. None the less, great videos…at least it gave me a fighting chance to save money.
Exactly! How do you know the shock absorbers are bad as opposed to the spider arm? It can shake and clunk for more than one reason! And yes shaft bearings can be bad too!
@@rokassan@rokassan You probably made the right choice. It would be nice if the video either gave troubleshooting advice or directed one to it. As far as shocks, apart by testing one new one against the old I guess if they were all removed they probably aren't all bad and maybe one can pinpoint the bad ones? Note the difference? Ideally you'd have a new one to compare to the old though?...People that have a bad shock(s) should count themselves lucky as compared to those with a wearing bearing or a bad spider arm... Looking at more videos or just more search might find better troubleshooting information... If it isn't shocks some might just give up on the unit...just saying... Good luck everybody! A lot of people just buy a new washer or suggest that, especially if it's older, I mean even service people that know how to do it know that replacing a spider arm is a lot of work, time and the part is over $100 I think... Some consider the unit totaled...that's a common thing. However, if a person has the tools, time, patience, money and inclination major repairs like this can be done but if you are paying a professional then you'd be wise to check what working new and used ones are going for. I'm not in the trade. There are other factors like stairs and delivery...I once fixed my mother's washer just because it was in a basement and taking it out and getting a new one in seemed like more bother to me. The time it took and the parts scattered around and the chance of failure weren't big concerns as it was in the basement next to a floor drain...and time pressure was low...
Is the rear absorber the same as the one in the front? Or is there a different one for the rear? If so, can you please share the product number or give me a link? Thanks in advance.
@@michaelkulman7095In my Samsung I can spin it with my hand and their is no sound or roughness (so not a bearings problem) but when I reach for the fromt edge of the drum it is quite loose - whereas earlier it was firm. During mid cycle spin or end spin the Spider mount thing must be loose because my washing machine moves front and back left right during spin cycles. I watched about 20 vidoes with the sound and symptoms and repair recorded and I am so convinced I am buying a new washing machine, a better brand than Samsung this time. Since replacing the drum is so expensive I’ve opted to buy a new machine.
I followed the video and successfully installed new shock absorbers in the front and back and reassmbled it but now my washer will not turn on at all. The only electrical parts I touched was disconnecting the door lock sensor while taking the front panel off. Any ideas?
So following this video I replaced both the shocks. The old ones where 10 years old and in bad shape. But imagine my shock when the problem remains and I can see the drum moving a lot. I also checked to see that the motor is spinning fine. ANd the main bearing is in good condition. So now should be checked next. I starts to spin and then stops. There is a lot of drum shake even with low load. I was thinking springs but not sure.
Get yourself a tube/tub of dampening grease and recoat the cylinder and your back in business!! I looked abround the net and found that is what the manufacture uses!!
+RepairClinic.com It gets up to about 300-400 RPM and then bounces around--above that it's nice and smooth. The suspension doesn't seem to have much damping, but the shocks felt firm and equal to each other when I pulled them out. Just did the flange and bearings, so maybe shocks are next! These videos are very useful.
New ones have about the same play as my 9 year old ones, and my machine was experiencing the same problem yours is (or maybe was by now) I ordered 2 not knowing my machine has 4. I have replaced the rear 2 and the problem has already gone away. Here is what I noticed between the new and old shocks. The old ones (after the initial play) move slightly more easily than the new ones. So when our wet clothes aren't balanced that makes a huge difference. This is my engineering response in lay-mans terms.
How can I tell if my shocks are bad? Ours shocks a Have a 1/2" of play in them before they give any resistance. Is that play normal or are The shocks bad? The washing machine shakes and we already replaced the spider shaft and a balance ring. It still shakes.
I have a Samsung front load washer. It's level but still shakes when entering spin cycle. When at 6 mins left it speeds up then stops timer goes directly to 1 min. Then turns off. Clothe don't feel as dry as usual. Would the vibration cause it to stop spin cycle?
I got the Samsung washer Modern # WF520ABP / XAA 04 I believe it was made 2011. I were using about 5 years than one day when it spin on high speed than it made a lot of noise and shaking just like freight train run by and after that sound like it hit the brake after than it's slowing down. Please tell me what's wrong with the washer.
Before you go and replace shock absorbers, spin your drum by hand and watch if it seems out of round and rotates like an oval. The bigger cause for shaking is the main shaft assembly corroding due to the use of crap materials. My washer assembly actually cracked on a washer less than 5years old. Samsung uses crap for that part and if you want to spend $200 replacing shock absorbers that dampen the vibration caused by something else than be my guest, you'll be replacing them in no time again. Check to make sure that the shaft assembly did not cause the problem in the first place. I am looking for a video to show me how to test if it's working properly and all I get is "replacement" instructions which are useless. You don't just blindly replace a part that costs 30% of the whole product because you "think" it might be the problem.
Idk what I'm doing wrong but I can only get one end of the shock bolted in the top bolt is kicking my ass I kno the metal barrel inside bolt housing swivels and adjust to the angle of the shock but I can't get it too save my life any suggestions would be appreciated thanks
I have the same problem with a Maytag front loader, model number MAH8700AWW. Someone applied blue threadlocker to the top 13mm bolt on both front dampers. A 5' breaker bar on my 1/4" drive broke them loose. The right bolt then came out with effort, but the left bolt has barely moved after working the better part of an hour. The damper eye has a rubber bushing that seems swollen. Suggestions?
I took around 2 hours trying to get the top bolt on the back shock back in. After a closer look with a flashlight and mirror I realized the hole on the plastic backside was a little smaller so the screw wouldn't go in to catch the thread. I used a dril bit of the same size as the bolt to gently grind down the plastic edge of the hole and finally the damn bolt went in. It was one of those days man... I was cursing that damn bolt!
@Digitalbumpin He may not have answered the question specifically. There's no way to tell exactly WHICH of the 4 is bad. A whole set of shocks (all 4 corners) are cheap, replace them all and not just one. Pulling apart the front of this washer is not difficult, and if you find it too difficult or frustrating, you probably shouldn't be working on any appliance.
Have you changed the shocks that way? It must be very hard to get to the bolts? Doesn't the drum tilt to the side and put pressure on the shocks making it hard to reinstall? I just did this procedure and it was just as described the biggest issue was the gasket wire and spring reinstall it kept pulling off the gasket. Did you need 2 people to pick the washer back up? Thx
Best bet take it apart. Good luck bolting the shocks if you do it this way. 🤪 Been doing this for 10 years. Trust me. Also take off the bottom cement. Makes the job 10 times easier
+RepairClinic.com Thank you. One more question. Are the shocks on the front and the shocks on the back the same. One set had an A at the end of the number, the other set had a B. But when I tried finding them I could only find the A to order so I ordered 4 of them. The ones coming off all looked the same except for the letter. Thanks again!
This is an IMPORTANT question and not covered at the RepairClinic website on the A and B parts either. RepairClinic: Can you please put an answer here? Do the A-numbered shocks go on the front and the B-numbered shocks go on the back? (or vice-versa?)
Some machines use four DC66-00470A while others use two DC66-00470A in the front and two DC66-00470B in the rear. Thanks for helping clarify this Luke.
How can you tell when the shocks are bad in the first place? I replaced my spider, both bearings, shaft seal, and tub gasket. Have NOT replaced the shocks yet. In spin test mode, with an EMPTY drum, the whole tub bangs up and down by about 2" (enough to strike the rear access panel), then smooths out. There is about 1/8" of runout at the front of the tub, but I'm not sure if that's a normal amount for this model. The shocks do impede movement but they only provide a couple pounds resistance. How stiff should the shocks be? I made a video of it: ua-cam.com/video/kKogjW8jpTQ/v-deo.html
Rafael Cervantes common how? I’ve never had an issue with any front load washer needing shocks unless they break. Vibration is either the machine isn’t solid to the floor or the floor moves due to the weight of the machine.
yeah but the new Samsung front loader models have a ton of issues with that. The same thing you're telling me and he replaced everything possible except the shocks and the issue continued till he replaced them. It can be a few of things to be honest with you
I'm currently having this issue with my 2015 front load Samsung. I'm going to try replacing the shocks and springs. Update: It worked. It's working like new again. Update 2: The washer worked well for a short time then the issue started again. There's no point on wasting more money to fix this thing. I'm just going to buy another brand.
If that's true that has a lot of appeal! Does it make sense to just replace all of the shocks on speculation or should one try to troubleshoot/diagnose more?
@@coffeedrinker9983 They could be being over stressed by a bad bearing or spider arm? Or ? But if you can access from the bottom trying new shocks seems worthwhile as worse problems are going to be harder to address... How much do four good shock absorbers cost? I might try that if I can just flip my machine and then give up...if that fails...spider arm replacement looks more involved and seems pretty common...bearings less common...from what I can tell...
![How to fix Shaky Samsung Spider Arm Washing Machine [FIXED] Imbalanced - Replacement, Flange Shaft](/img/n.gif)
Excellent video. Although your washer may vary slightly base don the model (mine had only two screws at the bottom of the front panel and the drain tube housing was not attached to the front panel) these instructions make this an easy repair for almost anyone. One tip: you *will* need a 10" extension for your socket wrench to get to the bolts on the rear shocks. Go buy that now, before you start.
epic
With this video I was able to fix my washer shocks. Very detailed and informative, thanks
how do you know if you have bad shock absorber?
What a good explanation... I'll do that repair of my washing machine thanks
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
You should have shown a expired shock vs new.
This would have been useful as there are FOUR shock absorbers, two in the front and two in the back.
Very good explanation for shocks absorbers replacement
Awesome. I just followed this video and fixed my washer. Thanks
Yuguo Du You are welcome.
@@repairclinic epic
Replaced mine today with this video. Thanks, great help!
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
How do you know the shock absorbers are bad as opposed to the spider arm?
Great instruction video - clear, concise, and complete. Thanks!
great video. thanks. saved my day.
These videos are awesome. I moved my washing machine for a couple of months for a house reno. I've put it back and now find on the spin it vibrates to the point of shutting down. What needs fixing or looking at. Much appreciated!
George Reichert There are a few possible causes of washer vibration. Enter your washing machine's model number in our website's repair help section for model-specific troubleshooting for this issue. www.repairclinic.com/repairhelp?TLSID=1773.
Just for future reference if you plan on moving a front load washer to another house: Keep the shipping bolts that came with the machine originally and re-use them. They keep the tub and suspension from getting stressed during transport.
Question: is there an upright we should be placing these shocks and is it different from the rear replacements?
At 2:08 lifting the machine is not quite as light as it appears for this guy. My washer weighs 221lbs. Luckily mine is installed on an optional drawer pedestal assembly and the 3 screws are accessible without tilting the washer. Just pull the drawer out and there's enough room for a screwdriver.
Also note that the 2 rear shock absorbers might be a different part number. On my machine they are part DC66-00470B.
Excellent video. Thanks
Fixed my front shocks…was hoping that would do the trick…it didn’t. Gotta replace the rear ones. Great video though. Hope changing all four fixes the issue.
Did it help? And we’re all 4 the Same size (part number)?
@@blueskyvibes no, I think the bearings were worn. Watched a video on that. Basically had to disassemble the entire machine to replace bearings…don’t have patience or room in my garage for that. Bought a new machine from Lowe’s. They were on special. These newer machines are not built to last. None the less, great videos…at least it gave me a fighting chance to save money.
Exactly!
How do you know the shock absorbers are bad as opposed to the spider arm?
It can shake and clunk for more than one reason!
And yes shaft bearings can be bad too!
@@michaelkulman7095I didn’t know. Troubleshooting…learned that in the Army.
@@rokassan@rokassan
You probably made the right choice.
It would be nice if the video either gave troubleshooting advice or directed one to it.
As far as shocks, apart by testing one new one against the old I guess if they were all removed they probably aren't all bad and maybe one can pinpoint the bad ones? Note the difference? Ideally you'd have a new one to compare to the old though?...People that have a bad shock(s) should count themselves lucky as compared to those with a wearing bearing or a bad spider arm...
Looking at more videos or just more search might find better troubleshooting information...
If it isn't shocks some might just give up on the unit...just saying...
Good luck everybody!
A lot of people just buy a new washer or suggest that, especially if it's older, I mean even service people that know how to do it know that replacing a spider arm is a lot of work, time and the part is over $100 I think...
Some consider the unit totaled...that's a common thing.
However, if a person has the tools, time, patience, money and inclination major repairs like this can be done but if you are paying a professional then you'd be wise to check what working new and used ones are going for.
I'm not in the trade.
There are other factors like stairs and delivery...I once fixed my mother's washer just because it was in a basement and taking it out and getting a new one in seemed like more bother to me.
The time it took and the parts scattered around and the chance of failure weren't big concerns as it was in the basement next to a floor drain...and time pressure was low...
Is the rear absorber the same as the one in the front? Or is there a different one for the rear? If so, can you please share the product number or give me a link? Thanks in advance.
epic
stupid question.. but what's the sure tell sign that they need to be replaced, and how do you know which ones are bad?
Exactly!
How do you know the shock absorbers are bad as opposed to the spider arm?
It can shake and clunk for more than one reason!
@@michaelkulman7095In my Samsung I can spin it with my hand and their is no sound or roughness (so not a bearings problem) but when I reach for the fromt edge of the drum it is quite loose - whereas earlier it was firm. During mid cycle spin or end spin the Spider mount thing must be loose because my washing machine moves front and back left right during spin cycles. I watched about 20 vidoes with the sound and symptoms and repair recorded and I am so convinced I am buying a new washing machine, a better brand than Samsung this time.
Since replacing the drum is so expensive I’ve opted to buy a new machine.
Very helpful. I have the same model. Are there only 2 shocks absorbers to replace? Other stores are selling in set in 4.
yes 4 ... i did changed mine . I would change all in the same time !
First make sure you don't have a broken tub spider or bad bearings witch are more likely to fail
If you don't know how, let me know?
Thanks!
epic
I followed the video and successfully installed new shock absorbers in the front and back and reassmbled it but now my washer will not turn on at all. The only electrical parts I touched was disconnecting the door lock sensor while taking the front panel off. Any ideas?
So following this video I replaced both the shocks. The old ones where 10 years old and in bad shape. But imagine my shock when the problem remains and I can see the drum moving a lot.
I also checked to see that the motor is spinning fine. ANd the main bearing is in good condition.
So now should be checked next. I starts to spin and then stops. There is a lot of drum shake even with low load. I was thinking springs but not sure.
Your bearings are probably bad and need to be replaced
Spider arm
Get yourself a tube/tub of dampening grease and recoat the cylinder and your back in business!! I looked abround the net and found that is what the manufacture uses!!
Are you saying I stead of replacing the whole shock? This worked for you??
I really like this video
Thank You Stay Safe
epic
epic
epic
lol
xd
Hetouahta, If the washer gets way out of balance during operation the shocks are likely defective. The is no bench test for them.
+RepairClinic.com It gets up to about 300-400 RPM and then bounces around--above that it's nice and smooth. The suspension doesn't seem to have much damping, but the shocks felt firm and equal to each other when I pulled them out. Just did the flange and bearings, so maybe shocks are next! These videos are very useful.
spinning problem
New ones have about the same play as my 9 year old ones, and my machine was experiencing the same problem yours is (or maybe was by now) I ordered 2 not knowing my machine has 4. I have replaced the rear 2 and the problem has already gone away. Here is what I noticed between the new and old shocks. The old ones (after the initial play) move slightly more easily than the new ones. So when our wet clothes aren't balanced that makes a huge difference. This is my engineering response in lay-mans terms.
There is a video of a guy showing you how to check the shocks.
What's the part number and were can I order them
How can I tell if my shocks are bad? Ours shocks a
Have a 1/2" of play in them before they give any resistance. Is that play normal or are
The shocks bad? The washing machine shakes and we already replaced the spider shaft and a balance ring. It still shakes.
+Janie Lascola Based on the problem you are experiencing there is a good chance the shockers are bad. There is no test based on play that we know of.
one shock can mess up your entire cycle
I need to replace shocks in my washer machine can I use this shocks for Samsung WF337AAR/XAA washer machine or I need to checks defferent part #.
mia mia To find parts designed for your particular model, enter your model number in our website: www.RepairClinic.com.
epic
If we know that one shock absorber is definitely bad do all 4 need to be replaced or just the one that is bad?
replace all of them. Amazon sells them for under 70 dollars
It looks like the latch assembly might be troublesome upon the reassembly
Muy bueno!!!!!
I have a Samsung front load washer. It's level but still shakes when entering spin cycle. When at 6 mins left it speeds up then stops timer goes directly to 1 min. Then turns off. Clothe don't feel as dry as usual. Would the vibration cause it to stop spin cycle?
You need the drain motor to be replaced.
Mine is currently doing now. Has anyone figured out the cause and what I can do to fix it?
Shock absorber in washer...what's next lift kits and tuners
I just opened up the intake and put a turbo on my vacuum...
epic
I got the Samsung washer Modern # WF520ABP / XAA 04 I believe it was made 2011. I were using about 5 years than one day when it spin on high speed than it made a lot of noise and shaking just like freight train run by and after that sound like it hit the brake after than it's slowing down. Please tell me what's wrong with the washer.
Hoang Y Nguyen it is a train now, choo choo
You might need new bearings
It's probably the "drum spider". Due to noise it made could also have damaged outer tub.
Mine doesn't have the front access filter, are the procedures and parts the same
epic
Before you go and replace shock absorbers, spin your drum by hand and watch if it seems out of round and rotates like an oval.
The bigger cause for shaking is the main shaft assembly corroding due to the use of crap materials. My washer assembly actually cracked on a washer less than 5years old. Samsung uses crap for that part and if you want to spend $200 replacing shock absorbers that dampen the vibration caused by something else than be my guest, you'll be replacing them in no time again.
Check to make sure that the shaft assembly did not cause the problem in the first place.
I am looking for a video to show me how to test if it's working properly and all I get is "replacement" instructions which are useless.
You don't just blindly replace a part that costs 30% of the whole product because you "think" it might be the problem.
Nick Dawn 2275689
The dampers only cost like 20$ tops each.
ua-cam.com/video/wUL5Wb1T71c/v-deo.html
epic
Idk what I'm doing wrong but I can only get one end of the shock bolted in the top bolt is kicking my ass I kno the metal barrel inside bolt housing swivels and adjust to the angle of the shock but I can't get it too save my life any suggestions would be appreciated thanks
I have the same problem with a Maytag front loader, model number MAH8700AWW. Someone applied blue threadlocker to the top 13mm bolt on both front dampers. A 5' breaker bar on my 1/4" drive broke them loose. The right bolt then came out with effort, but the left bolt has barely moved after working the better part of an hour. The damper eye has a rubber bushing that seems swollen. Suggestions?
I took around 2 hours trying to get the top bolt on the back shock back in. After a closer look with a flashlight and mirror I realized the hole on the plastic backside was a little smaller so the screw wouldn't go in to catch the thread. I used a dril bit of the same size as the bolt to gently grind down the plastic edge of the hole and finally the damn bolt went in. It was one of those days man... I was cursing that damn bolt!
How can I determine if it I a bad front shock, or if it is a bad rear shock?
+p756 If the washer is out of balance then one or more of the shocks will likely have too much play in it.
@Digitalbumpin He may not have answered the question specifically. There's no way to tell exactly WHICH of the 4 is bad. A whole set of shocks (all 4 corners) are cheap, replace them all and not just one. Pulling apart the front of this washer is not difficult, and if you find it too difficult or frustrating, you probably shouldn't be working on any appliance.
Or save yourself an hour’s work, lay the machine on its side and get to the shocks from underneath.
Have you changed the shocks that way? It must be very hard to get to the bolts? Doesn't the drum tilt to the side and put pressure on the shocks making it hard to reinstall? I just did this procedure and it was just as described the biggest issue was the gasket wire and spring reinstall it kept pulling off the gasket. Did you need 2 people to pick the washer back up? Thx
Getting to the bolts is hard.
Best bet take it apart. Good luck bolting the shocks if you do it this way. 🤪 Been doing this for 10 years. Trust me. Also take off the bottom cement. Makes the job 10 times easier
IF you have the room to do it, that's DEF the way to go.
If it is a new washer, Check the " shipping bolts"!!!!
If you can pull the shocks apart, does that mean they are bad?? They look good but can pull apart.
+Joseph Welch If the washer was getting out of balance and you pulled the shocks apart then there is a good chance they are bad.
+RepairClinic.com Thank you. One more question. Are the shocks on the front and the shocks on the back the same. One set had an A at the end of the number, the other set had a B. But when I tried finding them I could only find the A to order so I ordered 4 of them. The ones coming off all looked the same except for the letter. Thanks again!
This is an IMPORTANT question and not covered at the RepairClinic website on the A and B parts either. RepairClinic: Can you please put an answer here? Do the A-numbered shocks go on the front and the B-numbered shocks go on the back? (or vice-versa?)
Some machines use four DC66-00470A while others use two DC66-00470A in the front and two DC66-00470B in the rear. Thanks for helping clarify this Luke.
yes, its very bad
Why don't you tell us how we know that we need shock absorbers hello
Anyone can replace a part. The trick is knowing when the shock needs replaced. Show us how to determine that.
Unfortunately it doesn’t help
How can you tell when the shocks are bad in the first place? I replaced my spider, both bearings, shaft seal, and tub gasket. Have NOT replaced the shocks yet. In spin test mode, with an EMPTY drum, the whole tub bangs up and down by about 2" (enough to strike the rear access panel), then smooths out. There is about 1/8" of runout at the front of the tub, but I'm not sure if that's a normal amount for this model. The shocks do impede movement but they only provide a couple pounds resistance. How stiff should the shocks be? I made a video of it: ua-cam.com/video/kKogjW8jpTQ/v-deo.html
hetouahta htneuohtnueo
it helps if you reset it. The reset or re-calibration will help a lot
Rafael Cervantes
How do I rest or recalibrate it? I assume there’s a mode, but I can’t find it in the manual.
* reset or calibrate
Hello! I know this is 6 years old but did you ever figure it out? Mine does the same thing.
I fix appliances for a living. Never once have I replaced a non physically broken shock on a washer.
it is very common with Samsung
Rafael Cervantes common how? I’ve never had an issue with any front load washer needing shocks unless they break. Vibration is either the machine isn’t solid to the floor or the floor moves due to the weight of the machine.
yeah but the new Samsung front loader models have a ton of issues with that. The same thing you're telling me and he replaced everything possible except the shocks and the issue continued till he replaced them. It can be a few of things to be honest with you
I'm currently having this issue with my 2015 front load Samsung. I'm going to try replacing the shocks and springs. Update: It worked. It's working like new again. Update 2: The washer worked well for a short time then the issue started again. There's no point on wasting more money to fix this thing. I'm just going to buy another brand.
I have come across it before on bush washing machines, excess vibration and banging, changed out shocks....smooth again.
To much work, just lay it down and you can get them from the bottom with out doing all that unnecessary work
If that's true that has a lot of appeal!
Does it make sense to just replace all of the shocks on speculation or should one try to troubleshoot/diagnose more?
@@michaelkulman7095 I replaced all 4 they come in a pack, but I say go with original parts. Because I think mine went out already
@@coffeedrinker9983 They could be being over stressed by a bad bearing or spider arm? Or ?
But if you can access from the bottom trying new shocks seems worthwhile as worse problems are going to be harder to address...
How much do four good shock absorbers cost?
I might try that if I can just flip my machine and then give up...if that fails...spider arm replacement looks more involved and seems pretty common...bearings less common...from what I can tell...