How to replace the front brake pads and rotors on 2006 through 2010 BMW 328i sedan. The video only shows the left side being replaced to show where the wear sensor is.
@@pj9375 not all: need to perform bleeding procedure on all of the brakes in correct order! At the time you change pads or also rotors, get opposite color dot4 fluid -- change from yellow/clear to blue or vice-versa. Then bleed brakes in order until you get only the new color in each line in turn. That is a complete fluid refresh -- every 2 years! Usually bleed furthest away from master cylinder first -- RR, LR, RF, LF. Look online or in manual for more instructions.
I never made a comment before on anything but I really feel that I need to thank you for all the information you provide on your video I really appreciate it and I just wanted to thank you for it god bless
Thank You Sir, a great explanation / tutorial for the mechanically inept (me) to follow, Fingers crossed a following wind & luck will be with me, all four corners new discs, pads & sensors waiting for me to get my head out of my behind & make it happen.(after I've reviewed how to the rear end)
excellent video..changes pads but the top sensor white connector fell aprt soon as i pulled it out of holder..also, i can't get the anti-rattle clip back on :( do they sell that white connector with the push in tab) ? thats the one that broke that goes to chassis wire harness in that little black plastic holder. thank u
Is this what you broke? www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/abs-sensor-socket-priced-each/61131392246/?gclid=CjwKCAiAkan9BRAqEiwAP9X6UW8Cs1XL9wSDRIjXuGuuo26ditJALKfSi0qLxnuxa1r9Y6CVsHXdUxoCY-sQAvD_BwE
Thanks for taking the time to make the video. Just curious why you wouldn't crack the bleeder valve when compressing the piston to get rid of the brake fluid contaminants. More often then not the brake fluid by the piston is the most contaminated. I've done this on my last couple of rotor/brake change and find that my brakes work better than ever after doing so.
To answer your question. I have always done brakes that way. I have never encountered any problems in my 35 years of being in the automotive business. Another reason is I don't like to make a mess by cracking the bleeder bolt. Sometimes the bleeder could be super tight and you may end up stripping it. So I guess I'm sure everyone has there own way of doing things. That works for you. Nothing wrong with that. BTW BMW has as part of its regular service to flush the brake system. Oh, one more thing. What contaminants are you referring to?
My front brakes pads just started making noise. The info system says I got 1000 miles left on them. If I replace that pads before the brake pad light comes on, would I still need to get a new sensor?
To make room for the fluid in the brake caliper when you depress the piston. You don't want it to overflow the master cylinder reservoir and make a mess. Alot of times as the brakes wear. People will top off the master cylinder with brake fluid. This is a good way of also changing some of the fluid with good new fluid.
Paul Kokott Not really needed and it's not grease that's used. It's anti squeak compound that used on the caliper slides. In my professional opinion, those products are way over-rated. I see way too many mechanics going overboard with the stuff. I feel the only thing those products do is attract dirt and dust. I prefer nice clean surfaces. Now, the caliper bolts that have the seals. I agree should be checked and lubed.
Thanks for the video. When I did my brakes I'm afraid I may have over-torqued the carrier or "anchor" bolts for the caliper. I first used a hand wrench but wasn't satisfied with how firmly I locked them down so I moved the steering angle and used a 25 inch breaker bar and I think I may have torque them to around 100 ft. pounds. I feel like this is probably really sketch and I could've damaged a bolts. Any thoughts?
Also the outside ring/face of the caliper piston, or very lightly in the middle of the backs (steel sides) of the pads. Use the grease that comes with the pads! And don't forget to refill the master cylinder and bleed all the brakes (in order!)
Hi. Love your vids. They are helpful and understandable. I have a question re replacing brakes on a BMW. Is it possible to just replace the pads and machine the rotors or do you think that every time you replace pads you should also replace the rotors.
In a pinch. Yes, you can just replace the brake pads. You can machine the rotors if they are within the vehicle manufactures specification. But I find most of the time they get worn down. I just find it easier to replace everything at one time.
Great Video especially how to access the service data BUT You show all the tools ie 18 mm socket but nut the Rotor (Disc) removal tool (Which I haven't seen before!)
Would you lube the caliper slides? Can they be serviced? I know a lot of caliper slides require hi temp grease or rubber grease to allow the caliper to apply even pressure to the inner and outer pads as it is only a single piston caliper......
You can if you want. This is a West Coast car so it stays pretty clean. Didn’t find the need to. I personally find that the grease all it does is attract a lot of dirt. It just ends up drying up and flaking off anyways. I have done hundreds of brake jobs. And they always come back dry. Just make sure the surface is clean. You can use a wire brush to clean off any rust. In my opinion that should be adequate.
Herakles Yes, to make room for brake fluid so that when you depress the brake piston caliper it has a place to go. Otherwise it would overflow out of the master cylinder. Besides, I always like to get rid of the old fluid so that I can add fresh fluid.
Nicoya thanks so you sick it out and thentop off the reservoir at the end ? My old car I wouldn’t open the brake rervour it nothing just compress the caliper with it closed
Yes it is a nice video. Thank you for posting that. Did you notice at the very beginning the clip is on the outside on the top and inside on the bottom and then when you put it back on it's on the outside top and bottom?
my bmw 2008 328i has yellow 'Brake' turned on. using diagnostic scan tool , I confirmed error code is '5DE0' Brake-pad wear: Plasibility,front axle. I tried to reset the error code but it won't allow to reset. do I need to replace brake pad worn sensor from front ? or do I need to replace pad + sensor together? How can I kno w pad is worn enough? how to measure it? front side there is only one brake sensor? if so , which side it is there? left or right? Thank you so much~!
Hi great tutorial, subbed. I don't understand why you removed the brake fluid from the reservoir? do you have to remove it all? and what happens if you don't
Scarface Pnut It serves two purposes. It makes room for the fluid that returns into the master cylinder when you depress the caliper pistons. Also makes you add fresh brake fluid instead of using the old fluid. If you don’t drain some fluid out. What happens when you depress the caliper pistons. Is that the fluid will back up into the master cylinder and have no room and will overflow and make a mess.
Did you lift both front wheels on jack stand or is it just 1 wheel at a time? Wonder if you could turn the wheel by hand while other front wheel is on ground
Thanks for reply. I meant for steering the wheel outwards to make clearance both wheels have to be lifted right? I thought If one wheel is on ground it will be hard to turn. I have slightly sloped drive way
@@MrDeepanbaba Lifting both wheels is much easier. But if you had to do one at a time. You could just start the car and turn the wheel. Or just turn the wheel with the car off. It's all up to you. I really don't see what the confusion is?
ltnsky I change the brake fluid every time I do the brakes or the maintenance indicator comes on. All you have to do is drain the master cylinder. You can use a suction device. That will be more than adequate.
I order from this company, good prices, original parts and safe: www.autodoc.co.uk/ (but what is cheap in Norway is maybe very expensive other places in the world)
Not a big deal. This is a California car. The grease is overrated in my opinion. I think the guide pins are of more importance for the grease. I have found that the grease attracts a lot of dirt. The dirt absorbs the grease and just drys up and falls off anyways.
You need to depress the caliper piston because when you put the new brake pads on the caliper you need to get them over the brake rotor. Without that, you will never get the calipers back on.
I don't understand the question. After you finish the brake job and fill the master cylinder with fluid. You just pump the brake pedal to make up the clearance. Now if you are referring to how to depress the caliper piston. Just use some channel lock pliers or a "C" clamp.
If the wear indicator light has not gone on yet and i still want to replace the brake pads and rotors, do i still need to replace the wear indicator line? if so what brand do you recommend?
I would replace it anyways. The sensor gets very hot and may become brittle. So when you go to pull it off the brake pad it would most likely break. However, if you can remove the sensor without damaging it. You can reuse it. As far as brands I have used many. I seem to like Bosch the most
what is the brake pad sensors called or can you provide a link to buy the new sensors and do i need 4 new ones for all 4 tires ?on my bmw 2006 3 series 325I
They are called "brake pad wear sensors". You can buy them pretty much anywhere they sell auto parts. There are only two. One is the LF wheel and the other is RR wheel.
@@InitechAuto so there are only 2 sensors one on my left front wheel and one on my right rear wheel ? they r both the same so i would jusrt have to buy two right ?
hey my brakes are spongy after brake and rotor change. I removed some brake fluid from reservoir but never went below minimum. I drove it around the block twice it seemed to get better on second trip. Any ideas?
air was never introduced to the system, I'm hearing after brake change things have to settle in. After heating and cooling cycles they are supposed to firm. I drive around the block three different times over 2 days each time there're getting better. If it's not to my satisfication I'll bleed them. It would be a first never had to bleed brake unless opened the system.
@@Mazel_Tov_888 bleed brakes in order every time you do pads or also rotors. Bleed enough to change out all the fluid in each line and the reservoir (master cylinder.) Also change fluid and bleed every 2 years, perBMW and common sense.
Hey, I have a 2010 BMW 318D MSPORT. I have the brake warning light on, and so replaced both pads and wear sensors. The light is still on. Somebody before I got the car attached a scotch clip in the circuit, to bypass a fault. And so the warning light is indicating this broken circuit I think. The brakes work absolutely fine, and have no issues. But can't figure out why this scotch clip is being used within the circuit, to bypass a fault, and what the fault could possibly be. Maybe it's just a sensor, as BMW'S are loaded with them and go off for all kinds of reasons, or maybe its something more problematic. Any ideas? I tried a garage and they don't have the equipment to diagnose it, and BMW will charge a fortune, so can't go there!! 😲
james potter I know it’s been a couple months but you are supposed to reset the light manually using The Gauge cluster. If you haven’t already. Search a video on how to reset the light.
The two 18mm bolts on the caliber ankle are on extremely tight. Any good ideas on removing them? I tried with all my pressure and couldn't get them to budge
When ever they wear out. There are other factors which determine how long they last. They quality of the brake pads you buy make a difference on how long they last. Type of driving you do is a major factor in brake life.
Great video ! Very informative and detailed. I love DYI stuff. Gets me frustrated (at times) BUT relaxed and rewarded (always); kinda love and hate relationship; it keeps me balanced and bolted to the ground - things need to be appreciated, I like it think!. Anyhow, I am thinking to buy a 2007 328i w/63k miles. I am looking at every possible video to see what I am getting myself into. :) Q: what's the cost for these parts? And for the novice, how long does it take to change the pads and rotor? Thanks in advance !!!!
I don't remember what the cost was. However, it depends on the quality of the parts you get. Time-wise, I would imagine about 2 hours or so to do the job.
Great quality video with clear and slow explanation that makes me very confident to do it myself. Thank you very much
thank you saved me a good amount of money one of the best brakes videos to date .
That has to be the most clear and concise instruction video I have ever seen. Thank you!
Thank you so much. I've done my rotors and pads on my e91 today. This video was invaluable. Thank you sir, all the way from England UK 👍👍👍
Excuse me do you know how you get the pressure back on the brakes I want to make sure I get this job done right
@@ulysesblanco8266 when you've reassembled everything, just get in the car and press the brakes until they firm up. That's all you need to do.
@@pj9375 not all: need to perform bleeding procedure on all of the brakes in correct order! At the time you change pads or also rotors, get opposite color dot4 fluid -- change from yellow/clear to blue or vice-versa. Then bleed brakes in order until you get only the new color in each line in turn. That is a complete fluid refresh -- every 2 years! Usually bleed furthest away from master cylinder first -- RR, LR, RF, LF. Look online or in manual for more instructions.
Thank you sir..I will change rotors and brake pads with my son...YOU SAVED ME ABOUT $600
Just a word of advice. Buy the Bosch rotors. The rotors I used in the video. Ended up warping a few months later. Just FYI
@@InitechAuto THANK YOU...:)))))
I never made a comment before on anything but I really feel that I need to thank you for all the information you provide on your video
I really appreciate it and I just wanted to thank you for it god bless
Thank You Sir, a great explanation / tutorial for the mechanically inept (me) to follow, Fingers crossed a following wind & luck will be with me, all four corners new discs, pads & sensors waiting for me to get my head out of my behind & make it happen.(after I've reviewed how to the rear end)
Amazing video. Changed my brakes the next day using this video!
Many thanks from New Zealand
The best video the only one to talk about pressure on the master cylinder subbed just for that alone great video
That pressure you speak of does not mean crap on this procedure, that is why the master has a over flow.
Very informative, no BS straight forward and all the info I need. Thank you!
Best video so far, no excess bs talking just shown how to and done
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful.
One of the best if not the best , you are a great teacher , well explained .Thank you
Straight forward best video no BS Thank you 👍👍👍👍
One of the best video on how to replace e90 brakes. 👍🏽 good video angles
dsyncisreal I have e90 too. Is there a specific size of rotor for e90?
@@watchmode3696 yes. Order for year and model and position. Burger, Pelican, Amazon, etc. Find out about a better brand. Get drilled + slotted
Excellent Informative video
Makes us DIYs look like Pros 👍
Thanks so much
Oh Carlos, if only you had posted this before yesterday when I had my brakes done at an Indy shop lol. Nice DIY
Thank you. Now you know..
Great video and thanks to people like you who make us save lots of money..!! Thanks again.
Awesome vid, Brother! I really liked that specialized rotor removal tool; those Germans think of everything! Thanks
What I can only assume is a deadblow hammer
@@erggrimoire6173 plastic faced hammer, his wasn't a deadblow, but either works!
Very informative and well done video
The more clean video I never seen, thanks very much mister.
Thank you for a very easy to follow video super complete, superb job.👍
You are welcome!
Concise and informational
Great video
excellent video..changes pads but the top sensor white connector fell aprt soon as i pulled it out of holder..also, i can't get the anti-rattle clip back on :( do they sell that white connector with the push in tab) ? thats the one that broke that goes to chassis wire harness in that little black plastic holder. thank u
Is this what you broke?
www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/abs-sensor-socket-priced-each/61131392246/?gclid=CjwKCAiAkan9BRAqEiwAP9X6UW8Cs1XL9wSDRIjXuGuuo26ditJALKfSi0qLxnuxa1r9Y6CVsHXdUxoCY-sQAvD_BwE
Great video with great detail, thanks..
Great video thanks easy to follow and looking forward to doing my own brakes!!
Thanks for taking the time to make the video. Just curious why you wouldn't crack the bleeder valve when compressing the piston to get rid of the brake fluid contaminants. More often then not the brake fluid by the piston is the most contaminated. I've done this on my last couple of rotor/brake change and find that my brakes work better than ever after doing so.
To answer your question. I have always done brakes that way. I have never encountered any problems in my 35 years of being in the automotive business. Another reason is I don't like to make a mess by cracking the bleeder bolt. Sometimes the bleeder could be super tight and you may end up stripping it. So I guess I'm sure everyone has there own way of doing things. That works for you. Nothing wrong with that. BTW BMW has as part of its regular service to flush the brake system. Oh, one more thing. What contaminants are you referring to?
Awesome video, straight to the point. 👍
My front brakes pads just started making noise. The info system says I got 1000 miles left on them. If I replace that pads before the brake pad light comes on, would I still need to get a new sensor?
poe man
If you can get it off the brake pad without breaking it, then sure you can reuse it. It’s a cheap part. I would just replace it anyways.
Dziękuje
HELLO what light comes on if the sensor gets worn??? ABS??? great video..thank u
Brake light.
This is brilliant. Thank you from Australia!
That warning message should be changed to "Get out your credit card and head down to BMW"
Grate and simple explanation !! Good job mate !
Why did you opened the brake fluid reservoir? and sucked out the fluid? Is it impossible to push the caliper piston inside with the reservoir closed??
To make room for the fluid in the brake caliper when you depress the piston. You don't want it to overflow the master cylinder reservoir and make a mess. Alot of times as the brakes wear. People will top off the master cylinder with brake fluid. This is a good way of also changing some of the fluid with good new fluid.
In response to your replay,.u mean the ABS lite will come on if u don't replace the sensor..or does it say BRAKE LITE? thanks great video
Mine said brake pads.
Ill be doing this tomorrow. thx great video.
Good video but the guy didnt grease the side slips on the caliper or the slide bolts why ?
Paul Kokott Not really needed and it's not grease that's used. It's anti squeak compound that used on the caliper slides. In my professional opinion, those products are way over-rated. I see way too many mechanics going overboard with the stuff. I feel the only thing those products do is attract dirt and dust. I prefer nice clean surfaces. Now, the caliper bolts that have the seals. I agree should be checked and lubed.
Thanks for the video. When I did my brakes I'm afraid I may have over-torqued the carrier or "anchor" bolts for the caliper. I first used a hand wrench but wasn't satisfied with how firmly I locked them down so I moved the steering angle and used a 25 inch breaker bar and I think I may have torque them to around 100 ft. pounds. I feel like this is probably really sketch and I could've damaged a bolts. Any thoughts?
At 100 I personally think you will be alright.
I have a 2011 3281 xdrive is changing the brakes on mine the same as this one in the video?
I would say very similar. Brake systems are very basic.
grease the metal slide lips on the caliper where the pads ride.
Also the outside ring/face of the caliper piston, or very lightly in the middle of the backs (steel sides) of the pads. Use the grease that comes with the pads!
And don't forget to refill the master cylinder and bleed all the brakes (in order!)
Hi. Love your vids. They are helpful and understandable. I have a question re replacing brakes on a BMW. Is it possible to just replace the pads and machine the rotors or do you think that every time you replace pads you should also replace the rotors.
In a pinch. Yes, you can just replace the brake pads. You can machine the rotors if they are within the vehicle manufactures specification. But I find most of the time they get worn down. I just find it easier to replace everything at one time.
Great Video especially how to access the service data
BUT You show all the tools ie 18 mm socket but nut the Rotor (Disc) removal tool (Which I haven't seen before!)
Richard Simmons
:-)
question do all bmw series brakes and rotor are the same , I own a 2010 , 535 i with m package and a 2000 E46 6 il
You have to look up your vehicle for parts. So I would say no.
Would you lube the caliper slides? Can they be serviced? I know a lot of caliper slides require hi temp grease or rubber grease to allow the caliper to apply even pressure to the inner and outer pads as it is only a single piston caliper......
You can if you want. This is a West Coast car so it stays pretty clean. Didn’t find the need to. I personally find that the grease all it does is attract a lot of dirt. It just ends up drying up and flaking off anyways. I have done hundreds of brake jobs. And they always come back dry. Just make sure the surface is clean. You can use a wire brush to clean off any rust. In my opinion that should be adequate.
is there a pad wear sensor for every wheel or simply just on one wheel in front and one wheel in back?
Good afternoon. I want to ask you when we have to change the timing chain in BMW 320 2007 MODEL. Thanks alot
I get confused about the first step, so we are to remove some brake fluid? Great video
Herakles
Yes, to make room for brake fluid so that when you depress the brake piston caliper it has a place to go. Otherwise it would overflow out of the master cylinder. Besides, I always like to get rid of the old fluid so that I can add fresh fluid.
Nicoya thanks so you sick it out and thentop off the reservoir at the end ?
My old car I wouldn’t open the brake rervour it nothing just compress the caliper with it closed
Yes it is a nice video. Thank you for posting that. Did you notice at the very beginning the clip is on the outside on the top and inside on the bottom and then when you put it back on it's on the outside top and bottom?
Ok? Looks to me that it shifted when the pads got worn down or was never in its proper place to start with. Good eye!
my bmw 2008 328i has yellow 'Brake' turned on. using diagnostic scan tool , I confirmed error code is '5DE0' Brake-pad wear: Plasibility,front axle. I tried to reset the error code but it won't allow to reset. do I need to replace brake pad worn sensor from front ? or do I need to replace pad + sensor together? How can I kno w pad is worn enough? how to measure it? front side there is only one brake sensor? if so , which side it is there? left or right? Thank you so much~!
Replace the front brakes. Replace everything. The sensor is on the left front wheel. Brake pads, Rotors, and sensor.
Hi great tutorial, subbed. I don't understand why you removed the brake fluid from the reservoir? do you have to remove it all? and what happens if you don't
Scarface Pnut
It serves two purposes. It makes room for the fluid that returns into the master cylinder when you depress the caliper pistons. Also makes you add fresh brake fluid instead of using the old fluid. If you don’t drain some fluid out. What happens when you depress the caliper pistons. Is that the fluid will back up into the master cylinder and have no room and will overflow and make a mess.
Nicoya Thanks for the response, makes a lot of sense now.
Nicoya p
Hello, Are these torque values the same for a 2011 318d? Thanks in advance.
I would imagine so. But I would still verify it with a manual.
That was a great video tutorial! Thanks!
why did you change the rotor? it looked perfectly fine. just wondering.
will dawson Rotors are cheap now. Much easier to replace them instead of machining them.
Did you lift both front wheels on jack stand or is it just 1 wheel at a time? Wonder if you could turn the wheel by hand while other front wheel is on ground
I lifted both wheels. This is a rear-wheel-drive car. Makes no difference. You can do one or both. They spin independently of each other.
Thanks for reply. I meant for steering the wheel outwards to make clearance both wheels have to be lifted right? I thought If one wheel is on ground it will be hard to turn. I have slightly sloped drive way
@@MrDeepanbaba Lifting both wheels is much easier. But if you had to do one at a time. You could just start the car and turn the wheel. Or just turn the wheel with the car off. It's all up to you. I really don't see what the confusion is?
@@InitechAuto cool !! Waiting for more videos on e90s
Thanks for the video! How often does brake fluid need to be changed? Dealers told me to flush the brake fluid, how to do that?
ltnsky
I change the brake fluid every time I do the brakes or the maintenance indicator comes on. All you have to do is drain the master cylinder. You can use a suction device. That will be more than adequate.
Thank you!!
one more question :)
where do you order your parts from?
I purchased mine from my local auto parts store. Some times I order from Amazon.
I order from this company, good prices, original parts and safe: www.autodoc.co.uk/ (but what is cheap in Norway is maybe very expensive other places in the world)
Is it recommended to apply grease to the: pad ears, pad back and guide pins?
Not a big deal. This is a California car. The grease is overrated in my opinion. I think the guide pins are of more importance for the grease. I have found that the grease attracts a lot of dirt. The dirt absorbs the grease and just drys up and falls off anyways.
FCP Euro has brake kit for rear for 200, bmw wanted 800 to do
Hi don't you have to bleed the system after changing brake pads?
No
@@InitechAuto i thought you always had to bleead it ?
@@babar141 Only if you opened up the system. Then you do have to bleed it.
@@InitechAuto ok thanks, only thing o opened is brake fluid cap
@@babar141 that’s fine,. Just refill it test drive it and check the fluid level again.
Dumb question. Is the depress step necessary? If so, why? And what happens if you don’t? Thanks
You need to depress the caliper piston because when you put the new brake pads on the caliper you need to get them over the brake rotor. Without that, you will never get the calipers back on.
Nicoya thank you 👍
What do you do to apply the pressure back to the calipers please and thank you
I don't understand the question. After you finish the brake job and fill the master cylinder with fluid. You just pump the brake pedal to make up the clearance. Now if you are referring to how to depress the caliper piston. Just use some channel lock pliers or a "C" clamp.
Excellent Video, thank you very much!!!
If the wear indicator light has not gone on yet and i still want to replace the brake pads and rotors, do i still need to replace the wear indicator line? if so what brand do you recommend?
I would replace it anyways. The sensor gets very hot and may become brittle. So when you go to pull it off the brake pad it would most likely break. However, if you can remove the sensor without damaging it. You can reuse it. As far as brands I have used many. I seem to like Bosch the most
Thank you very appreciated
Thanks for your time sharing this video
what is the brake pad sensors called or can you provide a link to buy the new sensors and do i need 4 new ones for all 4 tires ?on my bmw 2006 3 series 325I
They are called "brake pad wear sensors". You can buy them pretty much anywhere they sell auto parts. There are only two. One is the LF wheel and the other is RR wheel.
@@InitechAuto so there are only 2 sensors one on my left front wheel and one on my right rear wheel ? they r both the same so i would jusrt have to buy two right ?
hey my brakes are spongy after brake and rotor change. I removed some brake fluid from reservoir but never went below minimum. I drove it around the block twice it seemed to get better on second trip. Any ideas?
Try bleeding the brakes.
air was never introduced to the system, I'm hearing after brake change things have to settle in. After heating and cooling cycles they are supposed to firm. I drive around the block three different times over 2 days each time there're getting better. If it's not to my satisfication I'll bleed them. It would be a first never had to bleed brake unless opened the system.
@@Mazel_Tov_888 bleed brakes in order every time you do pads or also rotors. Bleed enough to change out all the fluid in each line and the reservoir (master cylinder.) Also change fluid and bleed every 2 years, perBMW and common sense.
How many brake sensors have in the front and in the back?? Is one each tire or jus one in the front and one in the back total 2????
One for the LF brake and one in the RR brake. For a total of two for the vehicle.
Does this technique work on the rear brakes too? Or are they different? I wanted to replace all 4 but just need to be sure. Thanks.
It's pretty much the same thing. Slightly different tho. Here is a video for rears. ua-cam.com/video/9tzx8JPHs8w/v-deo.html
How many break sensor there are brother?
One on the left front wheel and the other one is on the right rear wheel.
very informative vid, great job!
excellent tutorial job, thank you
Thank you! Very informative!
So is the right side the same, except for the sensor part?
Yes
Great video and great work
Thanks
Hey,
I have a 2010 BMW 318D MSPORT.
I have the brake warning light on, and so replaced both pads and wear sensors.
The light is still on.
Somebody before I got the car attached a scotch clip in the circuit, to bypass a fault. And so the warning light is indicating this broken circuit I think.
The brakes work absolutely fine, and have no issues.
But can't figure out why this scotch clip is being used within the circuit, to bypass a fault, and what the fault could possibly be. Maybe it's just a sensor, as BMW'S are loaded with them and go off for all kinds of reasons, or maybe its something more problematic.
Any ideas?
I tried a garage and they don't have the equipment to diagnose it, and BMW will charge a fortune, so can't go there!! 😲
james potter I know it’s been a couple months but you are supposed to reset the light manually using The Gauge cluster. If you haven’t already. Search a video on how to reset the light.
What is the name of that thing to press? and how is that tool that is twisted
I'm assuming your talking about the brake caliper piston. And the tool I used is called a brake caliper piston tool.
well explained! nice video!
Can you please verify what tool and size I would need to remove the actual rotor and the caliper thanks a lot!
The information you seek is in the video. 7mm allen for the caliper bolts and 5 or 6mm for the rotor alignment bolt.
It's 6mm for the rotor alignment bolt
This is very strange on this video screw is 18mm on another video same bmw screw is 16mm ?
Mine is 18mm front and 16mm for the rears. Smaller brake system on rear
aha ok
Can you please tell me where to get a socket spanner like the one in the video?
Was it a Snap-on/
Very good i take the
Torque pretión.
Awesome video d00d !!! Thanks !!
Is rear caliper anchor bolt torque spec same as front anchor bolt torque 81ft lbs ??? Also doesn't it need loctite ???
No loctite, the rear anchor bolt torque is 50 foot pounds.
Nicoya awesome! thank you !
What tool did you use for the allen key bolt?
aznseeker Do you mean the caliper bolts? 7 mm for the Allen bolts I used a socket
How often do you change the front and rear rotor disc
I change them every time I do a brake job.
Waste
The two 18mm bolts on the caliber ankle are on extremely tight. Any good ideas on removing them? I tried with all my pressure and couldn't get them to budge
Leverage my friend. Try using a cheater pipe if you are using a small ratchet.
Thanks I got it off. I have changed the starter, oil and front/back brakes and rotors. Total cost in parts,
hahaha. I'm next :D
can't get mine to come off either - ! what ended up working for you?
How often should you change your rotors?
When you replace the caliper
Great video, thanks!
I strip the bolt tha hold the rotor, how i can take off help
Spray the bolt with penetrating oil and use a center punch with a hammer and turn the bolt.
Great Video!
Awesome video thanks
Thank you, nice
Hi! How many sensors in font and rear sir? thanks.
A total of two. One in the LF and the other in the RR.
Thanksss!
How many times do you have to go ahead to do the brake job?
When ever they wear out. There are other factors which determine how long they last. They quality of the brake pads you buy make a difference on how long they last. Type of driving you do is a major factor in brake life.
Great video. Pretty cool angled ratchet.
Very helpful, thanks...
Great video ! Very informative and detailed. I love DYI stuff. Gets me frustrated (at times) BUT relaxed and rewarded (always); kinda love and hate relationship; it keeps me balanced and bolted to the ground - things need to be appreciated, I like it think!.
Anyhow, I am thinking to buy a 2007 328i w/63k miles. I am looking at every possible video to see what I am getting myself into. :)
Q: what's the cost for these parts? And for the novice, how long does it take to change the pads and rotor?
Thanks in advance !!!!
I don't remember what the cost was. However, it depends on the quality of the parts you get. Time-wise, I would imagine about 2 hours or so to do the job.
Hi, thanks for video, to remove the hub assembly for a bearing job what else do you have to after removing the rotor? thanks
Four bolts hold the bearing in place. Real easy to remove.
Thank you!
OK thanks! I just wanted to make sure
Very nice video. Would have like to see less bolt turning and more lube and new hardware on the for the pads. Love your torque wrenches.