How to replace the front brake pads and rotors on 2006 through 2010 BMW 328i sedan. The video only shows the left side being replaced to show where the wear sensor is.
@@pj9375 not all: need to perform bleeding procedure on all of the brakes in correct order! At the time you change pads or also rotors, get opposite color dot4 fluid -- change from yellow/clear to blue or vice-versa. Then bleed brakes in order until you get only the new color in each line in turn. That is a complete fluid refresh -- every 2 years! Usually bleed furthest away from master cylinder first -- RR, LR, RF, LF. Look online or in manual for more instructions.
I never made a comment before on anything but I really feel that I need to thank you for all the information you provide on your video I really appreciate it and I just wanted to thank you for it god bless
Thank You Sir, a great explanation / tutorial for the mechanically inept (me) to follow, Fingers crossed a following wind & luck will be with me, all four corners new discs, pads & sensors waiting for me to get my head out of my behind & make it happen.(after I've reviewed how to the rear end)
Thanks for the video. When I did my brakes I'm afraid I may have over-torqued the carrier or "anchor" bolts for the caliper. I first used a hand wrench but wasn't satisfied with how firmly I locked them down so I moved the steering angle and used a 25 inch breaker bar and I think I may have torque them to around 100 ft. pounds. I feel like this is probably really sketch and I could've damaged a bolts. Any thoughts?
Hi. Love your vids. They are helpful and understandable. I have a question re replacing brakes on a BMW. Is it possible to just replace the pads and machine the rotors or do you think that every time you replace pads you should also replace the rotors.
In a pinch. Yes, you can just replace the brake pads. You can machine the rotors if they are within the vehicle manufactures specification. But I find most of the time they get worn down. I just find it easier to replace everything at one time.
Thanks for taking the time to make the video. Just curious why you wouldn't crack the bleeder valve when compressing the piston to get rid of the brake fluid contaminants. More often then not the brake fluid by the piston is the most contaminated. I've done this on my last couple of rotor/brake change and find that my brakes work better than ever after doing so.
To answer your question. I have always done brakes that way. I have never encountered any problems in my 35 years of being in the automotive business. Another reason is I don't like to make a mess by cracking the bleeder bolt. Sometimes the bleeder could be super tight and you may end up stripping it. So I guess I'm sure everyone has there own way of doing things. That works for you. Nothing wrong with that. BTW BMW has as part of its regular service to flush the brake system. Oh, one more thing. What contaminants are you referring to?
My front brakes pads just started making noise. The info system says I got 1000 miles left on them. If I replace that pads before the brake pad light comes on, would I still need to get a new sensor?
Would you lube the caliper slides? Can they be serviced? I know a lot of caliper slides require hi temp grease or rubber grease to allow the caliper to apply even pressure to the inner and outer pads as it is only a single piston caliper......
You can if you want. This is a West Coast car so it stays pretty clean. Didn’t find the need to. I personally find that the grease all it does is attract a lot of dirt. It just ends up drying up and flaking off anyways. I have done hundreds of brake jobs. And they always come back dry. Just make sure the surface is clean. You can use a wire brush to clean off any rust. In my opinion that should be adequate.
If the wear indicator light has not gone on yet and i still want to replace the brake pads and rotors, do i still need to replace the wear indicator line? if so what brand do you recommend?
I would replace it anyways. The sensor gets very hot and may become brittle. So when you go to pull it off the brake pad it would most likely break. However, if you can remove the sensor without damaging it. You can reuse it. As far as brands I have used many. I seem to like Bosch the most
excellent video..changes pads but the top sensor white connector fell aprt soon as i pulled it out of holder..also, i can't get the anti-rattle clip back on :( do they sell that white connector with the push in tab) ? thats the one that broke that goes to chassis wire harness in that little black plastic holder. thank u
Is this what you broke? www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/abs-sensor-socket-priced-each/61131392246/?gclid=CjwKCAiAkan9BRAqEiwAP9X6UW8Cs1XL9wSDRIjXuGuuo26ditJALKfSi0qLxnuxa1r9Y6CVsHXdUxoCY-sQAvD_BwE
hey my brakes are spongy after brake and rotor change. I removed some brake fluid from reservoir but never went below minimum. I drove it around the block twice it seemed to get better on second trip. Any ideas?
air was never introduced to the system, I'm hearing after brake change things have to settle in. After heating and cooling cycles they are supposed to firm. I drive around the block three different times over 2 days each time there're getting better. If it's not to my satisfication I'll bleed them. It would be a first never had to bleed brake unless opened the system.
@@Mazel_Tov_888 bleed brakes in order every time you do pads or also rotors. Bleed enough to change out all the fluid in each line and the reservoir (master cylinder.) Also change fluid and bleed every 2 years, perBMW and common sense.
my bmw 2008 328i has yellow 'Brake' turned on. using diagnostic scan tool , I confirmed error code is '5DE0' Brake-pad wear: Plasibility,front axle. I tried to reset the error code but it won't allow to reset. do I need to replace brake pad worn sensor from front ? or do I need to replace pad + sensor together? How can I kno w pad is worn enough? how to measure it? front side there is only one brake sensor? if so , which side it is there? left or right? Thank you so much~!
Where do you suggest to buy brakes for a 2009 328ix and what kind. I heard a rumor that BMW uses Brembo pads originally, I don't know if its true or not. Been getting a lot of mix messages. I'd like to just purchase break pads else where other than from a BMW dealership. But i've heard that you can't just buy any brakes that will work your your Bimmer due to caliper compatibility.
I don't understand the question. After you finish the brake job and fill the master cylinder with fluid. You just pump the brake pedal to make up the clearance. Now if you are referring to how to depress the caliper piston. Just use some channel lock pliers or a "C" clamp.
Hey, I have a 2010 BMW 318D MSPORT. I have the brake warning light on, and so replaced both pads and wear sensors. The light is still on. Somebody before I got the car attached a scotch clip in the circuit, to bypass a fault. And so the warning light is indicating this broken circuit I think. The brakes work absolutely fine, and have no issues. But can't figure out why this scotch clip is being used within the circuit, to bypass a fault, and what the fault could possibly be. Maybe it's just a sensor, as BMW'S are loaded with them and go off for all kinds of reasons, or maybe its something more problematic. Any ideas? I tried a garage and they don't have the equipment to diagnose it, and BMW will charge a fortune, so can't go there!! 😲
james potter I know it’s been a couple months but you are supposed to reset the light manually using The Gauge cluster. If you haven’t already. Search a video on how to reset the light.
When ever they wear out. There are other factors which determine how long they last. They quality of the brake pads you buy make a difference on how long they last. Type of driving you do is a major factor in brake life.
Not a big deal. This is a California car. The grease is overrated in my opinion. I think the guide pins are of more importance for the grease. I have found that the grease attracts a lot of dirt. The dirt absorbs the grease and just drys up and falls off anyways.
Great Video especially how to access the service data BUT You show all the tools ie 18 mm socket but nut the Rotor (Disc) removal tool (Which I haven't seen before!)
Also the outside ring/face of the caliper piston, or very lightly in the middle of the backs (steel sides) of the pads. Use the grease that comes with the pads! And don't forget to refill the master cylinder and bleed all the brakes (in order!)
Yes it is a nice video. Thank you for posting that. Did you notice at the very beginning the clip is on the outside on the top and inside on the bottom and then when you put it back on it's on the outside top and bottom?
To make room for the fluid in the brake caliper when you depress the piston. You don't want it to overflow the master cylinder reservoir and make a mess. Alot of times as the brakes wear. People will top off the master cylinder with brake fluid. This is a good way of also changing some of the fluid with good new fluid.
The two 18mm bolts on the caliber ankle are on extremely tight. Any good ideas on removing them? I tried with all my pressure and couldn't get them to budge
what is the brake pad sensors called or can you provide a link to buy the new sensors and do i need 4 new ones for all 4 tires ?on my bmw 2006 3 series 325I
They are called "brake pad wear sensors". You can buy them pretty much anywhere they sell auto parts. There are only two. One is the LF wheel and the other is RR wheel.
@@InitechAuto so there are only 2 sensors one on my left front wheel and one on my right rear wheel ? they r both the same so i would jusrt have to buy two right ?
ltnsky I change the brake fluid every time I do the brakes or the maintenance indicator comes on. All you have to do is drain the master cylinder. You can use a suction device. That will be more than adequate.
I order from this company, good prices, original parts and safe: www.autodoc.co.uk/ (but what is cheap in Norway is maybe very expensive other places in the world)
Paul Kokott Not really needed and it's not grease that's used. It's anti squeak compound that used on the caliper slides. In my professional opinion, those products are way over-rated. I see way too many mechanics going overboard with the stuff. I feel the only thing those products do is attract dirt and dust. I prefer nice clean surfaces. Now, the caliper bolts that have the seals. I agree should be checked and lubed.
That has to be the most clear and concise instruction video I have ever seen. Thank you!
Great quality video with clear and slow explanation that makes me very confident to do it myself. Thank you very much
Amazing video. Changed my brakes the next day using this video!
Many thanks from New Zealand
One of the best if not the best , you are a great teacher , well explained .Thank you
The best video the only one to talk about pressure on the master cylinder subbed just for that alone great video
That pressure you speak of does not mean crap on this procedure, that is why the master has a over flow.
thank you saved me a good amount of money one of the best brakes videos to date .
Thank you so much. I've done my rotors and pads on my e91 today. This video was invaluable. Thank you sir, all the way from England UK 👍👍👍
Excuse me do you know how you get the pressure back on the brakes I want to make sure I get this job done right
@@ulysesblanco8266 when you've reassembled everything, just get in the car and press the brakes until they firm up. That's all you need to do.
@@pj9375 not all: need to perform bleeding procedure on all of the brakes in correct order! At the time you change pads or also rotors, get opposite color dot4 fluid -- change from yellow/clear to blue or vice-versa. Then bleed brakes in order until you get only the new color in each line in turn. That is a complete fluid refresh -- every 2 years! Usually bleed furthest away from master cylinder first -- RR, LR, RF, LF. Look online or in manual for more instructions.
Very informative, no BS straight forward and all the info I need. Thank you!
One of the best video on how to replace e90 brakes. 👍🏽 good video angles
dsyncisreal I have e90 too. Is there a specific size of rotor for e90?
@@watchmode3696 yes. Order for year and model and position. Burger, Pelican, Amazon, etc. Find out about a better brand. Get drilled + slotted
I never made a comment before on anything but I really feel that I need to thank you for all the information you provide on your video
I really appreciate it and I just wanted to thank you for it god bless
Great video and thanks to people like you who make us save lots of money..!! Thanks again.
Best video so far, no excess bs talking just shown how to and done
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful.
This is brilliant. Thank you from Australia!
Excellent Informative video
Makes us DIYs look like Pros 👍
Thanks so much
Grate and simple explanation !! Good job mate !
Oh Carlos, if only you had posted this before yesterday when I had my brakes done at an Indy shop lol. Nice DIY
Thank you. Now you know..
Great video thanks easy to follow and looking forward to doing my own brakes!!
Straight forward best video no BS Thank you 👍👍👍👍
Awesome video, straight to the point. 👍
Great video with great detail, thanks..
Thank You Sir, a great explanation / tutorial for the mechanically inept (me) to follow, Fingers crossed a following wind & luck will be with me, all four corners new discs, pads & sensors waiting for me to get my head out of my behind & make it happen.(after I've reviewed how to the rear end)
That was a great video tutorial! Thanks!
Thank you sir..I will change rotors and brake pads with my son...YOU SAVED ME ABOUT $600
Just a word of advice. Buy the Bosch rotors. The rotors I used in the video. Ended up warping a few months later. Just FYI
@@InitechAuto THANK YOU...:)))))
The more clean video I never seen, thanks very much mister.
Very informative and well done video
Good afternoon. I want to ask you when we have to change the timing chain in BMW 320 2007 MODEL. Thanks alot
Concise and informational
Great video
very informative vid, great job!
Thank you for a very easy to follow video super complete, superb job.👍
You are welcome!
excellent tutorial job, thank you
Thank you! Very informative!
Great video and great work
Thanks
Ill be doing this tomorrow. thx great video.
well explained! nice video!
Excellent Video, thank you very much!!!
Thanks for your time sharing this video
Awesome video d00d !!! Thanks !!
Great video, thanks!
Awesome vid, Brother! I really liked that specialized rotor removal tool; those Germans think of everything! Thanks
What I can only assume is a deadblow hammer
@@erggrimoire6173 plastic faced hammer, his wasn't a deadblow, but either works!
Great video!!
Great Video!
Awesome Video. Thanks
great video thanks
Very helpful, thanks...
Thank you very appreciated
Awesome video thanks
dude thank you so much
is there a pad wear sensor for every wheel or simply just on one wheel in front and one wheel in back?
Great video...
Nice vídeo
Thanks !!
Thanks great info... save save save
Thanks for video
Thanks for the video. When I did my brakes I'm afraid I may have over-torqued the carrier or "anchor" bolts for the caliper. I first used a hand wrench but wasn't satisfied with how firmly I locked them down so I moved the steering angle and used a 25 inch breaker bar and I think I may have torque them to around 100 ft. pounds. I feel like this is probably really sketch and I could've damaged a bolts. Any thoughts?
At 100 I personally think you will be alright.
OK thanks! I just wanted to make sure
Thank you, nice
Does this technique work on the rear brakes too? Or are they different? I wanted to replace all 4 but just need to be sure. Thanks.
It's pretty much the same thing. Slightly different tho. Here is a video for rears. ua-cam.com/video/9tzx8JPHs8w/v-deo.html
Great video. Pretty cool angled ratchet.
FCP Euro has brake kit for rear for 200, bmw wanted 800 to do
Hi. Love your vids. They are helpful and understandable. I have a question re replacing brakes on a BMW. Is it possible to just replace the pads and machine the rotors or do you think that every time you replace pads you should also replace the rotors.
In a pinch. Yes, you can just replace the brake pads. You can machine the rotors if they are within the vehicle manufactures specification. But I find most of the time they get worn down. I just find it easier to replace everything at one time.
Thanks for taking the time to make the video. Just curious why you wouldn't crack the bleeder valve when compressing the piston to get rid of the brake fluid contaminants. More often then not the brake fluid by the piston is the most contaminated. I've done this on my last couple of rotor/brake change and find that my brakes work better than ever after doing so.
To answer your question. I have always done brakes that way. I have never encountered any problems in my 35 years of being in the automotive business. Another reason is I don't like to make a mess by cracking the bleeder bolt. Sometimes the bleeder could be super tight and you may end up stripping it. So I guess I'm sure everyone has there own way of doing things. That works for you. Nothing wrong with that. BTW BMW has as part of its regular service to flush the brake system. Oh, one more thing. What contaminants are you referring to?
That warning message should be changed to "Get out your credit card and head down to BMW"
Very nice 👌
My front brakes pads just started making noise. The info system says I got 1000 miles left on them. If I replace that pads before the brake pad light comes on, would I still need to get a new sensor?
poe man
If you can get it off the brake pad without breaking it, then sure you can reuse it. It’s a cheap part. I would just replace it anyways.
Can you please tell me where to get a socket spanner like the one in the video?
Was it a Snap-on/
Very good i take the
Torque pretión.
Would you lube the caliper slides? Can they be serviced? I know a lot of caliper slides require hi temp grease or rubber grease to allow the caliper to apply even pressure to the inner and outer pads as it is only a single piston caliper......
You can if you want. This is a West Coast car so it stays pretty clean. Didn’t find the need to. I personally find that the grease all it does is attract a lot of dirt. It just ends up drying up and flaking off anyways. I have done hundreds of brake jobs. And they always come back dry. Just make sure the surface is clean. You can use a wire brush to clean off any rust. In my opinion that should be adequate.
If the wear indicator light has not gone on yet and i still want to replace the brake pads and rotors, do i still need to replace the wear indicator line? if so what brand do you recommend?
I would replace it anyways. The sensor gets very hot and may become brittle. So when you go to pull it off the brake pad it would most likely break. However, if you can remove the sensor without damaging it. You can reuse it. As far as brands I have used many. I seem to like Bosch the most
excellent video..changes pads but the top sensor white connector fell aprt soon as i pulled it out of holder..also, i can't get the anti-rattle clip back on :( do they sell that white connector with the push in tab) ? thats the one that broke that goes to chassis wire harness in that little black plastic holder. thank u
Is this what you broke?
www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/abs-sensor-socket-priced-each/61131392246/?gclid=CjwKCAiAkan9BRAqEiwAP9X6UW8Cs1XL9wSDRIjXuGuuo26ditJALKfSi0qLxnuxa1r9Y6CVsHXdUxoCY-sQAvD_BwE
hey my brakes are spongy after brake and rotor change. I removed some brake fluid from reservoir but never went below minimum. I drove it around the block twice it seemed to get better on second trip. Any ideas?
Try bleeding the brakes.
air was never introduced to the system, I'm hearing after brake change things have to settle in. After heating and cooling cycles they are supposed to firm. I drive around the block three different times over 2 days each time there're getting better. If it's not to my satisfication I'll bleed them. It would be a first never had to bleed brake unless opened the system.
@@Mazel_Tov_888 bleed brakes in order every time you do pads or also rotors. Bleed enough to change out all the fluid in each line and the reservoir (master cylinder.) Also change fluid and bleed every 2 years, perBMW and common sense.
my bmw 2008 328i has yellow 'Brake' turned on. using diagnostic scan tool , I confirmed error code is '5DE0' Brake-pad wear: Plasibility,front axle. I tried to reset the error code but it won't allow to reset. do I need to replace brake pad worn sensor from front ? or do I need to replace pad + sensor together? How can I kno w pad is worn enough? how to measure it? front side there is only one brake sensor? if so , which side it is there? left or right? Thank you so much~!
Replace the front brakes. Replace everything. The sensor is on the left front wheel. Brake pads, Rotors, and sensor.
Where do you suggest to buy brakes for a 2009 328ix and what kind. I heard a rumor that BMW uses Brembo pads originally, I don't know if its true or not. Been getting a lot of mix messages. I'd like to just purchase break pads else where other than from a BMW dealership. But i've heard that you can't just buy any brakes that will work your your Bimmer due to caliper compatibility.
I have been buying from this place lately. www.autohausaz.com/
How many brake sensors have in the front and in the back?? Is one each tire or jus one in the front and one in the back total 2????
One for the LF brake and one in the RR brake. For a total of two for the vehicle.
What do you do to apply the pressure back to the calipers please and thank you
I don't understand the question. After you finish the brake job and fill the master cylinder with fluid. You just pump the brake pedal to make up the clearance. Now if you are referring to how to depress the caliper piston. Just use some channel lock pliers or a "C" clamp.
Hey,
I have a 2010 BMW 318D MSPORT.
I have the brake warning light on, and so replaced both pads and wear sensors.
The light is still on.
Somebody before I got the car attached a scotch clip in the circuit, to bypass a fault. And so the warning light is indicating this broken circuit I think.
The brakes work absolutely fine, and have no issues.
But can't figure out why this scotch clip is being used within the circuit, to bypass a fault, and what the fault could possibly be. Maybe it's just a sensor, as BMW'S are loaded with them and go off for all kinds of reasons, or maybe its something more problematic.
Any ideas?
I tried a garage and they don't have the equipment to diagnose it, and BMW will charge a fortune, so can't go there!! 😲
james potter I know it’s been a couple months but you are supposed to reset the light manually using The Gauge cluster. If you haven’t already. Search a video on how to reset the light.
I have a 2011 3281 xdrive is changing the brakes on mine the same as this one in the video?
I would say very similar. Brake systems are very basic.
How many times do you have to go ahead to do the brake job?
When ever they wear out. There are other factors which determine how long they last. They quality of the brake pads you buy make a difference on how long they last. Type of driving you do is a major factor in brake life.
Is it recommended to apply grease to the: pad ears, pad back and guide pins?
Not a big deal. This is a California car. The grease is overrated in my opinion. I think the guide pins are of more importance for the grease. I have found that the grease attracts a lot of dirt. The dirt absorbs the grease and just drys up and falls off anyways.
Great Video especially how to access the service data
BUT You show all the tools ie 18 mm socket but nut the Rotor (Disc) removal tool (Which I haven't seen before!)
Richard Simmons
:-)
grease the metal slide lips on the caliper where the pads ride.
Also the outside ring/face of the caliper piston, or very lightly in the middle of the backs (steel sides) of the pads. Use the grease that comes with the pads!
And don't forget to refill the master cylinder and bleed all the brakes (in order!)
question do all bmw series brakes and rotor are the same , I own a 2010 , 535 i with m package and a 2000 E46 6 il
You have to look up your vehicle for parts. So I would say no.
Yes it is a nice video. Thank you for posting that. Did you notice at the very beginning the clip is on the outside on the top and inside on the bottom and then when you put it back on it's on the outside top and bottom?
Ok? Looks to me that it shifted when the pads got worn down or was never in its proper place to start with. Good eye!
Why did you opened the brake fluid reservoir? and sucked out the fluid? Is it impossible to push the caliper piston inside with the reservoir closed??
To make room for the fluid in the brake caliper when you depress the piston. You don't want it to overflow the master cylinder reservoir and make a mess. Alot of times as the brakes wear. People will top off the master cylinder with brake fluid. This is a good way of also changing some of the fluid with good new fluid.
I strip the bolt tha hold the rotor, how i can take off help
Spray the bolt with penetrating oil and use a center punch with a hammer and turn the bolt.
HELLO what light comes on if the sensor gets worn??? ABS??? great video..thank u
Brake light.
Dziękuje
The two 18mm bolts on the caliber ankle are on extremely tight. Any good ideas on removing them? I tried with all my pressure and couldn't get them to budge
Leverage my friend. Try using a cheater pipe if you are using a small ratchet.
Thanks I got it off. I have changed the starter, oil and front/back brakes and rotors. Total cost in parts,
hahaha. I'm next :D
can't get mine to come off either - ! what ended up working for you?
Is rear caliper anchor bolt torque spec same as front anchor bolt torque 81ft lbs ??? Also doesn't it need loctite ???
No loctite, the rear anchor bolt torque is 50 foot pounds.
Nicoya awesome! thank you !
Best tutorial vid by far
what is the brake pad sensors called or can you provide a link to buy the new sensors and do i need 4 new ones for all 4 tires ?on my bmw 2006 3 series 325I
They are called "brake pad wear sensors". You can buy them pretty much anywhere they sell auto parts. There are only two. One is the LF wheel and the other is RR wheel.
@@InitechAuto so there are only 2 sensors one on my left front wheel and one on my right rear wheel ? they r both the same so i would jusrt have to buy two right ?
Can you please verify what tool and size I would need to remove the actual rotor and the caliper thanks a lot!
The information you seek is in the video. 7mm allen for the caliper bolts and 5 or 6mm for the rotor alignment bolt.
It's 6mm for the rotor alignment bolt
Thanks for the video! How often does brake fluid need to be changed? Dealers told me to flush the brake fluid, how to do that?
ltnsky
I change the brake fluid every time I do the brakes or the maintenance indicator comes on. All you have to do is drain the master cylinder. You can use a suction device. That will be more than adequate.
Thank you!!
one more question :)
where do you order your parts from?
I purchased mine from my local auto parts store. Some times I order from Amazon.
I order from this company, good prices, original parts and safe: www.autodoc.co.uk/ (but what is cheap in Norway is maybe very expensive other places in the world)
Hello, Are these torque values the same for a 2011 318d? Thanks in advance.
I would imagine so. But I would still verify it with a manual.
Hi, thanks for video, to remove the hub assembly for a bearing job what else do you have to after removing the rotor? thanks
Four bolts hold the bearing in place. Real easy to remove.
Thank you!
What is the name of that thing to press? and how is that tool that is twisted
I'm assuming your talking about the brake caliper piston. And the tool I used is called a brake caliper piston tool.
In response to your replay,.u mean the ABS lite will come on if u don't replace the sensor..or does it say BRAKE LITE? thanks great video
Mine said brake pads.
Is this the same for a 2011 BMW 328i?
I would imagine it is the same.
What tool did you use for the allen key bolt?
aznseeker Do you mean the caliper bolts? 7 mm for the Allen bolts I used a socket
Very nice video. Would have like to see less bolt turning and more lube and new hardware on the for the pads. Love your torque wrenches.
So is the right side the same, except for the sensor part?
Yes
Good video but the guy didnt grease the side slips on the caliper or the slide bolts why ?
Paul Kokott Not really needed and it's not grease that's used. It's anti squeak compound that used on the caliper slides. In my professional opinion, those products are way over-rated. I see way too many mechanics going overboard with the stuff. I feel the only thing those products do is attract dirt and dust. I prefer nice clean surfaces. Now, the caliper bolts that have the seals. I agree should be checked and lubed.