Oh my god. You are a god send. I am apprenticing on door installation with my father but he is a horrible teacher and gets incredibly angry if I ask any questions, he says I should learn just by watching him and your videos have helped me a ton to understand questions I wanted to ask him but didn't because of his short temper. I am taking notes on each door installation video you make and just wanted to let you know how much I appreciate your time and effort that you have put into these videos. We install timely frames, knock down, punch hole, welded frames, eliason swing doors, EZ concealed hinges frames, Western Integrated frames, pocket doors, you name it.....we install it. I want to start setting frames and hanging doors but all he has me do is hand him tools and take trips to the truck to get more tools. You can see why I am frustrated and upset, a 10 year old can hand somebody tools. I am ready to get the job done on my own and so glad that you have the patience and knowledge to describe how to install frames and hang doors. It's not rocket science, I don't know why my pops is just so difficult to work with but THANK YOU!!!! You have earned a loyal subscriber to the channel, without a doubt.
Rob, I should be saying thank you for the comment, I had to come into the office today just to give a proper response. I'm humbled by your story because it reminds me a lot of mine. I started in the trades when I was younger and it was right along side of my dad as well. Now the story isn't unlike what I'm hearing from you. My dad and I worked together, drove together and fought at work, and during the car ride home most times ha. What I can say is that those are some of the most fond memories I have of my dad as he passed away in September. From what I read it sounded just like him and I, so what I can say is this, I spent the first 6 months working with him just loading up his bakers with ceiling grid materials because he had a job to do and I was just supposed to catch on, and over time I did. He would get frustrated then I would, but over time we figured out how to work together. In the field its alot harder to teach than in a structured environment where I'm installing a closer because well time is money in the field. So just keep at it and know that most of us felt the exact same way! If you every have any suggestions for videos or questions, just drop us a line in a video and I'd be more than happy to answer! Again, thank you for the comment it means the world! Have a great one!
@DR PHIL You are 100 percent correct. I actually got paired up with other door installers in the company since I posted this comment and I learned more from them in 1 month than I did a whole year with pops. It's clear he just wanted me around to hand him tools and make the work day easier for him. I still do jobs with him but I'm not his personal assistant anymore. He can load up his own tools and blame himself when he loses them! Not me! Hahahaha
Thank you Kevin and Mitchell Acoustical!! I bought an almost identical closer from Amazon and the directions were literal crap and there was no template. I consider myself pretty competent with projects and instructions, however after reading the book twice, studying the engineering drawings from all angles, reading reviews online and checking out photos, I was still at a loss of where to even begin...until I found your video! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and going step-by-step. Thank goodness I had the exact same setup (left hand door, concealed closure, with parallel arm) and the door closure itself had the same measurements. Your instructions and the order you went in were literally the opposite of what I was planning to do, so THANK YOU. Much time and frustration saved :D The only part that wasn't clear to me was placing the Mounting bracket plate (9-1/4" over) I wasn't sure where the 9-1/4 equated on placing the bracket, however you answered in comments that it was the furthest center of screw holes and the first set of screw holes is at 7-1/16. That's awesome you answer your viewers! I learned so much from this one short video that I think will help me with many projects in the future. Thank you and thanks also for the additional video explaining the adjustments in detail! You guys rock!
This is a great teacher. It solved my problem i fed the instruction and watch a video from factory I didn’t make it until I see this video. Pufffff finally I made it.
Nicely done man! Very clear on your instructions, you would make a great shop teacher eh! I do these from time to time (the under mount type) and arrrg the instructions aren’t very clear and always seems Like a battle.. thx for taking time to make these vids..
Steve Hill I appreciate the feed back. I happen to open this box with the midset that there was a guide and when there wasn’t had to switch up the video and go at it the old school way👍
A short cut would be to mark and drill the first hole and then use one of the bolts to hold the closer in place while you use the closer as your template to mark the other three holes. Also, it would be a good idea to mention, if you are working with a hollow core door wood screws are not enough to hold that closer down. I have always had to place a piece of 1/4" ply-wood one the back side of the door and use bolts to go all the way through the door.
I wish you would have shown the exact process of winding the closer arm in real time step by step. This is the part I struggle with. Thanks for your videos I think they are great .
We made that a different video. The hard part is, every closer is going to be different so we can only give the scenario that we have on hand with setting the swing, back check, etc.
THANK YOU for the video! I'm a Maintenance Tech and have a door closer that's pulled away from the metal door frame. I was curious what's the best hardware to use during initial installation. Someone else has tried to repair it with wood screws. Do it the right way and only have to do it once. 👍👍
I had heard that someone was working incorrectly with a closer arm and because of the tension when he was trying to disconnect it, it smacked him in the mouth and I think he lost some teeth because of it. I'm totally new to this and would appreciate it if you can tell me how to prevent this sort of injury with a closer arm under tension. Thank you, great video!
Well that cylinder acts as a piston. I bet it knocked some teeth out. Don’t wind the arm. Seems like he may have wound it and worked at head height. I would say, if anything you shouldn’t need to wind it further than a 1/4 turn. Anything other than that you need to reset
We let our vendor know that there will be a closer in the head and they weld an extra plate inside the frame. If they don’t, you have to run thru bolts and plate the op side. Not ideal
Why does the wind blow door open ? I can't seem to get about 5 pounds on the push weight (its about 2lbs). It's a glass store front door. Great video (by the way)
Because it is a low duty door closer. Remember just because it is advertised commercial does not mean it’s true. Check out www.autodoorandhardware.com. They have actual commercial door closers and are in the USA. They specialize in door hardware.
I'd watch the video from the manufacturer and read the instructions over and over again and been working on this is Jackson closer to get it to work correctly 4/10 hours now. Bird instructions did not say that I had to wind up the arm past the point to get it to work right. I wish I would have watched your video first time
That’s a hard question to answer. This was our install on the inside of a left swing door, if your is mounted any other way it would be hard to tell you which way to wind it.
You could, as long as it’s a solid core door, or just use through bolts if it’s a metal door. You probably would need a commercial door grade closer as these are for heavier doors. Hope this helps👍
You could, as long as it’s a solid core door, or just use through bolts if it’s a metal door. You probably would need a commercial door grade closer as these are for heavier doors. Hope this helps👍
You could, as long as it’s a solid core door, or just use through bolts if it’s a metal door. You probably would need a commercial door grade closer as these are for heavier doors. Hope this helps👍
I think it depends on the manufacturer. I think this one has to be almost resting on the door. You can try 3/8” and if it doesn’t work the plate should covers those holes if you have to move it.
I have a fairly heavy commercial metal door in my basement that leads to the mechanical room. It's only like 27 1/2 wide though. It doesn't really stay closed because there's no latch. Just a door knob that doesn't even turn. I bungee cord holds it closed. Would a door closer hold it or would that be a bad idea?
@@mitchellacoustical3119 Well the strike plate is higher than the door knob. I think that’s because the door was cut shorter. There’s also a piece welded I think where the latch would be because it’s solid. So I would definitely have to do some careful cutting. Everything is painted and finished pretty good on the door and it leads out of a finished family room. So even though they’re expensive I think a door closer might be a good option. The door slowly swings open without the bungee cord I think because the door isn’t exactly level and plumb. Would this cause a problem for the door closer?
Actually I’m stupid. Cutting the door shouldn’t mess with the door knob and strike plate alignment right? They used a different metal casing? Not the one original to the door? I don’t know.
I think it was in the video. But grab an Allen key and start trying to turn the screws on the unit. You can always give something a 1/4 turn and back it off when becomes heavier or lighter.
Be careful on power grade door closers. If you adjust the valve too much it will leak hydraulic fluid. Especially the cheap door closers. I recommend www.autodoorandhardware.com they are commercial grade 1 closers
@@mitchellacoustical3119 The liquid in a closer is the hydraulic fluid that slows the spring; once that tube is ruptured there's really no repairing it.
Oh my god. You are a god send. I am apprenticing on door installation with my father but he is a horrible teacher and gets incredibly angry if I ask any questions, he says I should learn just by watching him and your videos have helped me a ton to understand questions I wanted to ask him but didn't because of his short temper. I am taking notes on each door installation video you make and just wanted to let you know how much I appreciate your time and effort that you have put into these videos. We install timely frames, knock down, punch hole, welded frames, eliason swing doors, EZ concealed hinges frames, Western Integrated frames, pocket doors, you name it.....we install it. I want to start setting frames and hanging doors but all he has me do is hand him tools and take trips to the truck to get more tools. You can see why I am frustrated and upset, a 10 year old can hand somebody tools. I am ready to get the job done on my own and so glad that you have the patience and knowledge to describe how to install frames and hang doors. It's not rocket science, I don't know why my pops is just so difficult to work with but THANK YOU!!!! You have earned a loyal subscriber to the channel, without a doubt.
Rob, I should be saying thank you for the comment, I had to come into the office today just to give a proper response. I'm humbled by your story because it reminds me a lot of mine. I started in the trades when I was younger and it was right along side of my dad as well. Now the story isn't unlike what I'm hearing from you. My dad and I worked together, drove together and fought at work, and during the car ride home most times ha. What I can say is that those are some of the most fond memories I have of my dad as he passed away in September. From what I read it sounded just like him and I, so what I can say is this, I spent the first 6 months working with him just loading up his bakers with ceiling grid materials because he had a job to do and I was just supposed to catch on, and over time I did. He would get frustrated then I would, but over time we figured out how to work together. In the field its alot harder to teach than in a structured environment where I'm installing a closer because well time is money in the field. So just keep at it and know that most of us felt the exact same way! If you every have any suggestions for videos or questions, just drop us a line in a video and I'd be more than happy to answer! Again, thank you for the comment it means the world! Have a great one!
Pops is so angry because for him.... it is rocket science.
@DR PHIL You are 100 percent correct. I actually got paired up with other door installers in the company since I posted this comment and I learned more from them in 1 month than I did a whole year with pops. It's clear he just wanted me around to hand him tools and make the work day easier for him. I still do jobs with him but I'm not his personal assistant anymore. He can load up his own tools and blame himself when he loses them! Not me! Hahahaha
@DR PHIL You've got that right. I learned the hard way! 😄😄😄
😮😂 x{
Thank you Kevin and Mitchell Acoustical!! I bought an almost identical closer from Amazon and the directions were literal crap and there was no template. I consider myself pretty competent with projects and instructions, however after reading the book twice, studying the engineering drawings from all angles, reading reviews online and checking out photos, I was still at a loss of where to even begin...until I found your video! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and going step-by-step. Thank goodness I had the exact same setup (left hand door, concealed closure, with parallel arm) and the door closure itself had the same measurements. Your instructions and the order you went in were literally the opposite of what I was planning to do, so THANK YOU. Much time and frustration saved :D The only part that wasn't clear to me was placing the Mounting bracket plate (9-1/4" over) I wasn't sure where the 9-1/4 equated on placing the bracket, however you answered in comments that it was the furthest center of screw holes and the first set of screw holes is at 7-1/16. That's awesome you answer your viewers! I learned so much from this one short video that I think will help me with many projects in the future. Thank you and thanks also for the additional video explaining the adjustments in detail! You guys rock!
Glad we could help!
Wonderful Video! Thank you! It's great to see someone so confident with his measuring ability!
This is a great teacher. It solved my problem i fed the instruction and watch a video from factory I didn’t make it until I see this video. Pufffff finally I made it.
Glad you found it helpful! Closers and door hardware in general can be tricky if you’re not doing it day in and day out, but glad he could help👍
Nicely done man! Very clear on your instructions, you would make a great shop teacher eh!
I do these from time to time (the under mount type) and arrrg the instructions aren’t very clear and always seems
Like a battle.. thx for taking time to make these vids..
Steve Hill I appreciate the feed back. I happen to open this box with the midset that there was a guide and when there wasn’t had to switch up the video and go at it the old school way👍
Thank you for video. Very helpful for a first timer.
THANKS FOR SHARING. I sell a lot of door closers but i 'd never seen installation of them.
A short cut would be to mark and drill the first hole and then use one of the bolts to hold the closer in place while you use the closer as your template to mark the other three holes.
Also, it would be a good idea to mention, if you are working with a hollow core door wood screws are not enough to hold that closer down. I have always had to place a piece of 1/4" ply-wood one the back side of the door and use bolts to go all the way through the door.
UtwoBed sure you could do that. But this is teaching people to measure it out. You’re less opt to put it up crooked as well👍
I wish you would have shown the exact process of winding the closer arm in real time step by step. This is the part I struggle with. Thanks for your videos I think they are great .
We made that a different video. The hard part is, every closer is going to be different so we can only give the scenario that we have on hand with setting the swing, back check, etc.
THANK YOU for the video!
I'm a Maintenance Tech and have a door closer that's pulled away from the metal door frame. I was curious what's the best hardware to use during initial installation. Someone else has tried to repair it with wood screws. Do it the right way and only have to do it once.
👍👍
Absolutely! Glad we could help👍
I had heard that someone was working incorrectly with a closer arm and because of the tension when he was trying to disconnect it, it smacked him in the mouth and I think he lost some teeth because of it. I'm totally new to this and would appreciate it if you can tell me how to prevent this sort of injury with a closer arm under tension. Thank you, great video!
Well that cylinder acts as a piston. I bet it knocked some teeth out. Don’t wind the arm. Seems like he may have wound it and worked at head height. I would say, if anything you shouldn’t need to wind it further than a 1/4 turn. Anything other than that you need to reset
@@mitchellacoustical3119 Yes it did knock some teeth out! Thanks for explaining how that might have happened.
TY MAC; and God Bless your all -American business with big profits and gains!
Great job, great video
Good job done!! 😊👍
Thank you for sharing it's a very necessary .
Was there a hollow space in that top style ?
Wont that eventually losen up ??
We let our vendor know that there will be a closer in the head and they weld an extra plate inside the frame. If they don’t, you have to run thru bolts and plate the op side. Not ideal
Thank you very much for the help take care be safe
Thank you, and you as well. Glad we could help!
Thank you It really helped!
Good job my friend like you video
Thank you sir
How did you wound it up!! That was the most important part
Nice! Thank you very much 👍🏻
Why does the wind blow door open ? I can't seem to get about 5 pounds on the push weight (its about 2lbs). It's a glass store front door.
Great video (by the way)
My guess is that it doesn’t have a vestibule to take out the negative air from the inside.
Because it is a low duty door closer. Remember just because it is advertised commercial does not mean it’s true. Check out www.autodoorandhardware.com. They have actual commercial door closers and are in the USA. They specialize in door hardware.
My life is so much easier with you tube videos
Good to hear!
I'd watch the video from the manufacturer and read the instructions over and over again and been working on this is Jackson closer to get it to work correctly 4/10 hours now. Bird instructions did not say that I had to wind up the arm past the point to get it to work right. I wish I would have watched your video first time
Oh absolutely, closers are one of those things that if you don't do them often they're a bear to install. Glad we could help!
No mounting Block ? I do Commercial Door Installation and we always Mounting Blocks
THANK-YOU ! ✨️
Carbide tip is the word you were looking for lol
I got lost when you installed swing arm. What is a reverse angle and how did you crank it up? Thanks.
That’s a hard question to answer. This was our install on the inside of a left swing door, if your is mounted any other way it would be hard to tell you which way to wind it.
Great video. Can I use this for my home. I want to put this on my sun room door and my garage door that everyone forgets to close
You could, as long as it’s a solid core door, or just use through bolts if it’s a metal door. You probably would need a commercial door grade closer as these are for heavier doors. Hope this helps👍
You could, as long as it’s a solid core door, or just use through bolts if it’s a metal door. You probably would need a commercial door grade closer as these are for heavier doors. Hope this helps👍
You could, as long as it’s a solid core door, or just use through bolts if it’s a metal door. You probably would need a commercial door grade closer as these are for heavier doors. Hope this helps👍
Great video.
1:45 You should put painters tape and do all your marking on that. I shows up Much better and no forgetting to erase marks.
Does the arm plate have to be against the door or can it be like an 3/8 “ away
I think it depends on the manufacturer. I think this one has to be almost resting on the door. You can try 3/8” and if it doesn’t work the plate should covers those holes if you have to move it.
Great job on the video
Thank you!
I have a fairly heavy commercial metal door in my basement that leads to the mechanical room. It's only like 27 1/2 wide though. It doesn't really stay closed because there's no latch. Just a door knob that doesn't even turn. I bungee cord holds it closed. Would a door closer hold it or would that be a bad idea?
I’m sure a closer would hold it. What about a latch?
@@mitchellacoustical3119 Well the strike plate is higher than the door knob. I think that’s because the door was cut shorter. There’s also a piece welded I think where the latch would be because it’s solid. So I would definitely have to do some careful cutting. Everything is painted and finished pretty good on the door and it leads out of a finished family room. So even though they’re expensive I think a door closer might be a good option. The door slowly swings open without the bungee cord I think because the door isn’t exactly level and plumb. Would this cause a problem for the door closer?
Actually I’m stupid. Cutting the door shouldn’t mess with the door knob and strike plate alignment right? They used a different metal casing? Not the one original to the door? I don’t know.
lcn is a good closer 4040xr I think
Are u sure the link is the exact one in the video just because the picture on the box looks a bit diffrent on the attachment part
Just double checked the link and I'm unsure if the packaging changed or not but it is the same closer that we used
Very nice
Thank you!
My prob is hard opening. Where do I adjust it in the door closer to make it lighter? Thanks.
I think it was in the video. But grab an Allen key and start trying to turn the screws on the unit. You can always give something a 1/4 turn and back it off when becomes heavier or lighter.
Be careful on power grade door closers. If you adjust the valve too much it will leak hydraulic fluid. Especially the cheap door closers. I recommend www.autodoorandhardware.com they are commercial grade 1 closers
Thank you so much for making this video! Great help.
Very good thanks
Can I put this on a metal door with a circle knob?
Maybe, I’m sure they have them. The ones were required to install are levered
www.autodoorandhardware.com has one. They make metal doors and hardware, so they have it!
Does it stop the door from hitting the wall when u open it ?
It can, but you should use a door stop for that
awesome...thank you!!
Sanjay Kapoor thank you! you’re welcome👍
Is that 9¼" to the center of the bracket or the edge of the bracket? The instructions that came with my closer are terrible.
That 7-1/4 and 9-1/4 marks are center of the pilot holes.
What happen if the oil leaks how u put oil in ,,,
To be honest, this is a great question. I have seen them leak at some point, but not sure how to put some back in, aside from taking it apart.
@@mitchellacoustical3119 The liquid in a closer is the hydraulic fluid that slows the spring; once that tube is ruptured there's really no repairing it.
My main man called this concealed lmfao
The part I wanted is the one you didn't do, the winding up of the arm :(
That should be in our install video
@@mitchellacoustical3119 I thought this was the install video
Wow
👍
Why didnt you show how you wound up the door?
We made that another video.
Mines stays open 🤦🏾♂️
Why 3 inches down
That’s what the template says. I used the template to show other ppl how to use it
Lengthy demo!
where's the template save you lot of time
I install elephant doors
great however you didnt measure the level
renson kiplangat not sure what you mean?
You speak to much
Grammar 101: "too" not "to".