This is what I found was the problem with my Jk ebrake. I didn’t think to make a video of it but this is what I discovered to be the problem. Only thing is when you pull the handle the spring lever would still would come from behind the tab. So I drilled a hole beside the spring lever the exact size of a cotter pin and drove the cotter pin into the hole preventing the lever from coming around the tab. Works great!!
Great idea and got me to thinking about another possibility. Find a bushing maybe 1/2" long with just enough diameter to slide over and down onto the spring stop. Pry back spring slightly, slide the bushing over the spring tail, raise the bushing up the tail, then release tension allowing spring tail to contact the stop. Slide bushing down over the stop, thus capturing spring tail and stop inside. Should prevent the tail from moving around the stop, and even if it does, it can't go very far. Sounds convoluted, but no drilling involved and I think it could work...
This is the only video I've found on UA-cam that even mentions the spring being on the wrong side of the tab. I took off my center console and found this exact issue. Thank you so much for this! Started getting tired of using wheel chocks haha.
This video is a hidden treasure!!! Thank you for the real fix. I would almost think this should qualify for a Jeep recall. I hope more people comment to help promote this video on UA-cam.
🟢cta1284; 15.09’24- I did the clock spring fix to my 2013 JKU back in SEP 2023. Works great without slipping. JK Parking Brake Lever Repair (2013 JKU) •Repair adds a single wind on clock spring to re-tension parking cables. •The clock spring’s tension is not difficult to move. •Should be done with parking brake handle assembly in vehicle ITEMS NEEDED PULL LINE- •20 in. of 18ga wire (Stranded or solid, insulated or not) PLIERS- •Vise grip (Pull line handle) LEVERAGE TOOL- •Large screw driver, chisel or equivalent (Starts movement on clock spring) REPAIR PROCESS o Remove center console & associated wiring; makes the job easier. o Lower parking brake handle. o Cut 20 in. of 18ga wire. o Run wire 1/2 way through the bend of the clock spring’s hook that engages tab. (May need to push hook forward to get wire through) o Start a tight twist at the spring’s hook then continue twisting the wire together. o Run the twisted wire forward / down & feed it under clock spring towards rear of vehicle. o Attach vise grip to end of twisted wire. o The next step will require two movements at the same time- o 1) With a large screw driver, chisel or equivalent, push forward on clock spring hook & down in front while 2) pulling on the twisted wire with the vise grip. o Keep pulling until the hook lines up with the tab. o Shift hook over & slide hook back onto tab. o Re-install center console.
Mine had jumped the tab also. Thing is the brakes just don’t work. I even replaced the entire brake lever mechanism and the brake barely holds on level ground. I think everyone should complain enough to get Jeep to do a recall on the issue & come up with a replacement system that works people! This is going to get someone killed before anything is done about it.
I literally just finished replacing my parking brake shoes; needless to say I am very frustrated. On top of it, it did not help. It catches slightly better but I still roll on a hill. I pray that this fixes the issue. I’ll try it tomorrow. Thank you! I’ll post a update. Also, the biggest frustration is I failed my inspection because of it and nothing is helping.
If indeed your spring tab has traveled past the stop, this is your fix. As one poster commented, this should probably qualify for a recall. Mine has popped past the stop again, so I'll probably drag out the welder to craft an enhanced spring stop.
@@reeddm001 hey! Yup so this is the problem! But unfortunately the metal clip, from the spring, keeps popping off of that metal tab. I can push it back but if I engage it, it pops off. So I ordered a new assembly from Amazon. I really have no idea how long it will last though. It all seems to all be cheap garbage
@@EVH5150iii late 90s explorers use the same parking brake shoe part and levers for some jeeps (it is actually a jeep swap, 8.8" is a stronger D44). I think a similar issue is with the foot pedal on the explorer. Usually on the second try it grabs. Even with all new hardware, shoes practically touching the drum, still not 100%. I Even read the federal parking brake FMVSS, standard, they allow two applications for the test, has to hold on a 30 degree incline or something for 5 min. It is not easy to tell if that mechanism is bad (hand or foot), nothing in the manuals really. Seems like a simple mechanism but its not. Real waste of time to get to the bottom :lol:. I even gave up, brought it to a shop, they played with it 2 hours and didn't charge me anything, he said sometimes its like that :lol:. He said if all the cables are connected he would pass it for inspection.
@@alb12345672 the garage I went to are being butt heads about it. I think after 60days I can go anywhere I want so I’ll replace the assembly and hope it goes well
@@EVH5150iii Parking brake is very subjective. In NY the oil change places do inspections, they like to test the parking brake with hitting the gas. Other places just put it in D if it holds, as long as it don't just drop the floor.
Same here. I'm going to Dynamat the floor which means pulling the interior. At the point I'll beef up the spring stop by welding some additional metal ears around the tab so that it won't pop over or around it. I'll post an update after I get some sort of solution.
that tab is not jumped, spring that you think is in wrong is in fact in correct position. that is why your fix is no lasting, it is not a fix. it will either fail over time or break your cable. issue is fatigue in spring. You can use a pair of brake spring to nudge the clock spring, and that is what works as a long term solution. Alternately, and this is also proven on forums, you can buy a new OEM (not a third party knock off) entire mopar assembly for about $75 and that wil last at least three to four years. after the pita or removing shifter knobs it is about a 20 minute job to swap in new one.
Considering the spring tail keeps coming around the tab no matter what I do, the solution at the link below is the next thing I'll try. Note that spring tail has already moved beyond the tab in his vid, so I'm hopeful this could be a long-term fix. I'll post later with results. m.ua-cam.com/video/BarDuHiI9ck/v-deo.html
This is what I found was the problem with my Jk ebrake. I didn’t think to make a video of it but this is what I discovered to be the problem. Only thing is when you pull the handle the spring lever would still would come from behind the tab. So I drilled a hole beside the spring lever the exact size of a cotter pin and drove the cotter pin into the hole preventing the lever from coming around the tab. Works great!!
Great idea and got me to thinking about another possibility.
Find a bushing maybe 1/2" long with just enough diameter to slide over and down onto the spring stop. Pry back spring slightly, slide the bushing over the spring tail, raise the bushing up the tail, then release tension allowing spring tail to contact the stop. Slide bushing down over the stop, thus capturing spring tail and stop inside. Should prevent the tail from moving around the stop, and even if it does, it can't go very far. Sounds convoluted, but no drilling involved and I think it could work...
This is the only video I've found on UA-cam that even mentions the spring being on the wrong side of the tab. I took off my center console and found this exact issue. Thank you so much for this! Started getting tired of using wheel chocks haha.
@Dynadian, exactly why I posted the vid! I searched and searched and only found kluges instead of the real fix. Thanks for your note of confirmation.
This video is a hidden treasure!!! Thank you for the real fix. I would almost think this should qualify for a Jeep recall. I hope more people comment to help promote this video on UA-cam.
Glad it helped, and good idea on the recall. It's a very poor design...
Thanks so much! After digging through a lot of similar videos this was the one with the EXACT problem I didn’t realise I had on my Dodge Nitro. ❤❤
🟢cta1284; 15.09’24- I did the clock spring fix to my 2013 JKU back in SEP 2023. Works great without slipping.
JK Parking Brake Lever Repair (2013 JKU)
•Repair adds a single wind on clock
spring to re-tension parking cables.
•The clock spring’s tension is not difficult
to move.
•Should be done with parking brake
handle assembly in vehicle
ITEMS NEEDED
PULL LINE-
•20 in. of 18ga wire
(Stranded or solid, insulated or not)
PLIERS-
•Vise grip
(Pull line handle)
LEVERAGE TOOL-
•Large screw driver, chisel or equivalent
(Starts movement on clock spring)
REPAIR PROCESS
o Remove center console & associated
wiring; makes the job easier.
o Lower parking brake handle.
o Cut 20 in. of 18ga wire.
o Run wire 1/2 way through the bend of
the clock spring’s hook that engages
tab. (May need to push hook forward to
get wire through)
o Start a tight twist at the spring’s hook then
continue twisting the wire together.
o Run the twisted wire forward / down &
feed it under clock spring towards
rear of vehicle.
o Attach vise grip to end of twisted wire.
o The next step will require two
movements at the same time-
o 1) With a large screw driver, chisel or
equivalent, push forward on clock
spring hook & down in front while
2) pulling on the twisted wire with
the vise grip.
o Keep pulling until the hook lines up with
the tab.
o Shift hook over & slide hook
back onto tab.
o Re-install center console.
you are the man sir! that is my problem as well! You saved me some money
Mine had jumped the tab also. Thing is the brakes just don’t work. I even replaced the entire brake lever mechanism and the brake barely holds on level ground. I think everyone should complain enough to get Jeep to do a recall on the issue & come up with a replacement system that works people! This is going to get someone killed before anything is done about it.
I literally just finished replacing my parking brake shoes; needless to say I am very frustrated. On top of it, it did not help. It catches slightly better but I still roll on a hill. I pray that this fixes the issue. I’ll try it tomorrow. Thank you! I’ll post a update.
Also, the biggest frustration is I failed my inspection because of it and nothing is helping.
If indeed your spring tab has traveled past the stop, this is your fix. As one poster commented, this should probably qualify for a recall. Mine has popped past the stop again, so I'll probably drag out the welder to craft an enhanced spring stop.
@@reeddm001 hey! Yup so this is the problem! But unfortunately the metal clip, from the spring, keeps popping off of that metal tab. I can push it back but if I engage it, it pops off. So I ordered a new assembly from Amazon. I really have no idea how long it will last though. It all seems to all be cheap garbage
@@EVH5150iii late 90s explorers use the same parking brake shoe part and levers for some jeeps (it is actually a jeep swap, 8.8" is a stronger D44). I think a similar issue is with the foot pedal on the explorer. Usually on the second try it grabs. Even with all new hardware, shoes practically touching the drum, still not 100%. I Even read the federal parking brake FMVSS, standard, they allow two applications for the test, has to hold on a 30 degree incline or something for 5 min. It is not easy to tell if that mechanism is bad (hand or foot), nothing in the manuals really. Seems like a simple mechanism but its not. Real waste of time to get to the bottom :lol:. I even gave up, brought it to a shop, they played with it 2 hours and didn't charge me anything, he said sometimes its like that :lol:. He said if all the cables are connected he would pass it for inspection.
@@alb12345672 the garage I went to are being butt heads about it. I think after 60days I can go anywhere I want so I’ll replace the assembly and hope it goes well
@@EVH5150iii Parking brake is very subjective. In NY the oil change places do inspections, they like to test the parking brake with hitting the gas. Other places just put it in D if it holds, as long as it don't just drop the floor.
I was able to get that done through the opening where the brake handle goes up
Great idea on the access point. I'll have a look. Thanks for the additional info!
Any information on how you did that would be appreciated!
Just did this on my Jeep and first use snapped the cable so be sure you adjust your shoes on the back
Dont erase this video ...still using now
i purchased a new brake handle assembly and the spring is in front of the tab.
Really a pain in the -- to get to Worked but not for long jumping back over.
Same here. I'm going to Dynamat the floor which means pulling the interior. At the point I'll beef up the spring stop by welding some additional metal ears around the tab so that it won't pop over or around it. I'll post an update after I get some sort of solution.
that tab is not jumped, spring that you think is in wrong is in fact in correct position. that is why your fix is no lasting, it is not a fix. it will either fail over time or break your cable. issue is fatigue in spring. You can use a pair of brake spring to nudge the clock spring, and that is what works as a long term solution. Alternately, and this is also proven on forums, you can buy a new OEM (not a third party knock off) entire mopar assembly for about $75 and that wil last at least three to four years. after the pita or removing shifter knobs it is about a 20 minute job to swap in new one.
My lever always jumps to the side when I pull harder on the brake lever. What can I do?
add peace of metal with the side slightly bent and with a little more height with a self-tap bold and will solve the issue of jumping back.
Considering the spring tail keeps coming around the tab no matter what I do, the solution at the link below is the next thing I'll try. Note that spring tail has already moved beyond the tab in his vid, so I'm hopeful this could be a long-term fix. I'll post later with results.
m.ua-cam.com/video/BarDuHiI9ck/v-deo.html
Lasted to pulls and it out of position again.
Lasted one day.