Pressure Testing a Gas Line! How to Pressure Test Natural Gas and Propane Lines Correctly!
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- Pressure Testing a Gas Line! How to Pressure Test Natural Gas and Propane Lines Correctly!
These are some of the reasons I use a 6 PSIG Pressure Test for Testing Low-Pressure Natural Gas and Low-Pressure Propane Gas lines per International Fuel Gas Code IFGC. I go over what gases to use to pressure test, how high to pressure test, and why what maximum pressure the gauge should be as well as other tips! Supervision is needed by a licensed HVAC Tech before doing this as Experience and Apprenticeship garners Wisdom and Safety.
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Thank you. That was the details I was looking for. I appreciate when people provide the details/reasoning at a high level while referencing the associated codes. Awesome video.
Running my gas line today! Thank you dude!
When I added a detached garage I ran a continuous length of 3/4" copper line buried at 24".
I had to flare the ends myself.
I got the gas line permit from building indpection office which outlined exactly what they wanted and how it was to be tested.
They wanted 25# for so many hours.
I ran mine overnight.
PRIOR to the test , I installed a 160# gauge and filled it to 150#.
I then used the soapy water to check all connections.
I found the flared connections leaking.
I cranked them tighter and no bubbles anymore at 150#.
Then I vented the air and installed a 30# gauge and set the test at 25#.
It passed.
I figured if it didn't leak at 150# , it wasn't going to at 25# either.
There’s always something I learned from the professionals, the part that caught me by surprise is not pressuring down your inlet pressure because it’s too much too fast… anyway keep on rocking
Thanks bud. It's obvious why your video is the first one on this subject
Thanks a lot Lewis!
i use a bicycle pump. No danger of me overpressurizing the line.
Yes, all right !
Awesome video. We are having a class on gas pressure next week for our installers and techs. And to understand inches of water column. Thank you
Awesome, thanks Steven!
Thanks for explaining the temp problem. i kinda suspected that but you confirmed it.
No prob, thanks!
Good info. Logically explained. Doing mine tomorrow.
Thanks. You should do a video on how to hook up and connect the gauge
Awesome vid. Great info well said 🫡
Nobody talks about the fact that the rate of pressure loss by leakage is a function of the volume of the piping being tested. So if you are adding sections of pipe, testing, adding another etc, just the volume of a 3 ft section of pipe will lose pressure a lot faster than a 25 ft section for the very same leak. If you don't understand that, imagine the pipe is 10,000 miles long starting with 7 psi leaking through a small leak vs a pipe an inch long starting with 7 psi leaking through the same small leak. The 10,000 mile long pipe would take years for the needle to budge. The standards like IFGC are kind of coarse on this point, saying a volume of less than 10 cu ft needs a minimum of a 10 minutes test. But a 3 ft section of say 3/4 iron is much less than 10 cu ft of pipe volume and the apparent pressure loss from these two volumes over ten minutes for the SAME leak will be much different.
Our propane company just piped our house and left a 5 lb gauge on with 5 lbs pressure. I noticed next day it had lost about 1 lb and down another lb the following day. I don't believe inspection has happened yet. What is acceptable and safe? Is zero the norm? I don't recall losing any pressure when the underground pipe was tested. I will be speaking to propane company first of the week.
great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
5:05 How does the city come and test people’s gas lines on houses if they have manual valves in the closed position inside the house?
Thanks for the great video!
Glad you liked it!
Do you leave the line on pressure until the inspector Come out with the new meter?
Excellent, thank you very good tips and refresher, clear and concise! thumbs up given :)
Thanks Clint!
Great video
Excellent training -- thanks for the education.
Thank you very much!
That was well explained!! Thanks great video
Glad you enjoyed it!
At 4:56 there there is added wording that says the tested line must not be connected to the meter. If you want to test all the way back to the meter does that mean you need to disconnect house plumbing from the meter and then cap off the house plumbing (similar to capping off the feeder lines close to the gas appliances)?
Great video...Can you please make a video about what are the most common parts that a technician should keep in a truck!
That is a good video idea. Thank you and glad you enjoyed the video.
Awesome video find.
I'm doing, or will be, a leak test of my own.
Great coverage on your end.
Thanks,
Is it normal if pressure drops little by little after 2-3 days
Good video
Thank you, I learn a lot from you.
Thanks jimmy ung!
How can this be done it the system is connected to the gas meter from the utility company? Can you just turn the gas off at the meter? Can the valve on the gas meter handle the PSI?
Aside of damaging your check valve with a high psi, I would think that you could potentially cause your joints to leak since the seal is a soft set, could blow off the pipe seal off?
There is no check valve except the valve core in the pressure test and this is done without appliances connected. This must be done by code when installing a new gas line in a building. I give the code reasons in the video, thanks!
Spot on mate thanks
Glad to help
Thanks for sharing.
Very helpful.
Great to hear, thank you!
A fewUnscrupulous plumbers overpressurize to 30 psi to test yr gas line -- then claim a homeowner needs $5000 of gas pipe replacement since they ‘found a leak’ ...( which they themselves created especially on old threaded black pipe unions or tees , by using wrong 30 psi test pressure.. not 4 or 6 psi. .) always get a second opinion from a certified master plumber before agreeing to pay for gas line replacement.
It depends on the code, some call for a min 15psi for 15 min for pipe up to 2", 60 min if its more then 200 feet, some code calls for no more then 300% working pressure. Black iron fittings should be rated #150 so at min 150psi. If it leaks at 30psi, its still leaking at 5psi and 0.25 psi. Its easier to find a small leak at 30psi, nothing harmful to pressurize a system to 30 psi.
Unfortunately it is difficult to find a trades to certify a pipe system with any leak as there is no "acceptable leak rate" in any code. The trades are put in an awkward position where there is a small insignificant leak thats probably existed for decades without notice or issue and if they touch the system such as install water heater they are now responsible.
With that said, some trades would rather replace the system then spend hours trying to find a tiny leak, its easier and less risk to quote pipe replacement then guess the hours needed to hunt for a leak. Like you said just have to get multiple quotes. $5k sounds excessive for 1-2days work and $100 worth of pipe
140 psi one hour
Uneducated comment
So if I used a regular psi gauge, chances are it won’t read any pressure at all from the system? I used a compressor to air the line up and all I get is noise from the regulator outside. Like it’s venting excess air outside.
Do you ever test the line with the 2lbs regulators installed?
Should never use galvanized pipe on gas lines. The coating will flake off and clog all the ports.
Do we have to turn off the shut off valve before doing the pressure test?
Psig @60
Is good idea to spray soap and water to gage tester some times leaking by the valve and gage treads. That happens to me when I pressure test.
Hey Channel settings, you can just go ahead and replace that schrader valve otherwise known as a valve core and it won't leak much. Yes spray non-corrosive leak detector on available joints and valve core, thanks
thank you for your video.
Glad to help!
That attachment from the gas pipe to the pressure tester looks like a 1/2 to 1/4 reducer, but I can't find one with a schrader valve attachment. Do you have a link for it, or do you know what it's called?
I put air in my gas line and it held for about an hour. How do release the air out of the gas line before I introduce gas? Does it matter? My bbq stub is capped off at the moment. I tried to let air out of the pressure gauge but it only let about 1-2lb of air out
Say “alright” just one more time!!!!!!!!
We pump to 10 here in California at my company
Do you pressure test with regulators on?
I pressure test to 80 psi, isolated at both ends.
Doesnt that hi a test pressure blow the friction joints in old black pipe? Our m o pr is 4 psi for testing for leaks in n g appliance supply piping.
I'm having a problem where when the water heater and furnace are running, I have 3 psi at the pressure gauge. As soon as I turn off the gas at the meter and close all of the shutoff valves to the appliances, the pressure drops to less than 1 psi. I attempt to pressurize it with a compressor and no change in pressure is seen. I'm about to do the soapy spray water method today. But is it correct to shut off the valve at the incoming gas meter and close the valves for the pressure test or am I missing something?
Could you please explain why you cannot use a manual valve in the closed position at the end of the line? Thanks!
They leak and if you read on the side, they only are rated for holding back 1/2 psi, thanks
We take the gas line loose at all appliances and cap them off then we can do a real test with up to 30 psi, 6 is not enough imo
Can a home owner or hvac contractor secure the main gas shut off valve at the meter if minor repairs are needed inside the house. All repairs will be checked for leaks. Thanks.
Yes at the customer side which is usually the right, not the stub side from the ground. Thanks!
In the year 2020, is the code still 6 psig or have they increased it to 10? The lasted search results show a 2018 code book. Also: if you accidentally inflate to 20 psi will you blow out the pipe sealant?
how much pressure does the gas meter put out to a 3 bedroom house? because I would want to test at that pressure so I know its going to hold.
Low pressure nat gas is roughly 1/4 of a psi and we disconnect from any appliance if we were running a pressure test so they dont break.
Could this be done using a hand pump as well??
yes
Man! Do I love to see the pressure go up! But 6 psi? Wow! UPC used to be 15 psi. Then they lowered it to 10 psi.
Hey Richard, that is for low pressure 5-8"wc nat gas and 11-13"wc Lp on a 30Lb pressure test and follows the 3 guidelines spelled out in IFGC 2015, thanks
Yes you are right 10 psi for 15 minutes.
Hi, say I just added a gas line for my fireplace. I have two shutoff valves. One at the fireplace and the other at furnace room where I teed off. So I would just shut off the two valves and ONLY pressure test the new line correct? Or do I have to do the whole house? Thank you.
You can't valve off and then pressure test. The line cannot be connected to the appliance but just near it. Then add the pressure test to the other end of the branch. The whole house does not need to be tested but just the new branch. After the pressure test holds and inspection, release the pressure and connect the branch to the main and the appliance, thanks
thank you for your reply. so on the appliance side i would just cap the new line off (without connecting to appliance). then on the other end of the new line in the furnace room i would just connect my test dial (without connecting to the main) and put in pressure. so basically, i am just adding pressure to the new line ONLY with nothing connecting to it (not appliance or main gas line). is this correct? thank you.
Yes, that is what it states in the IFGC 2018 and then you leak test with non corrosive bubble leak detector afterward at the connection points to the appliance and to the main. Have you seen this video on the inlet gas pressure and making sure to not pressure test with an appliance connected, thanks- ua-cam.com/video/3pi6uGPPjCo/v-deo.html
Getting ready to test for gas logs. I have a manual shut off in fireplace. If I cap the shutoff and open valve, that should be alright for my test, right?
Sorry to bother you. Can you tell me where to buy (or the name to search for) the widget that connects the NPT gas pipe to the meter and pressure hose
Its 3/4 gas pipe nipple. To gauge to hose.
@@michaelguido7505 Thank you
The only difference between a professional and an amateur:
The professional gets paid to do it.
super video can I use a uei manometer electronic? thank you for sharing partner!!!!1
You can use the UEI Electronic Manometer for checking the actual nat gas or propane pressure coming into the appliance but you would use a gauge that is tightened onto the actual gas line for pressure testing when the gas line is not attached to any incoming regulators, meter, or supplying appliances. All of the branch ends would be capped during a pressure test to 6psig. Glad you enjoyed it!
If you use an electric model please be sure that it is properly calibrated prior to use.
Tony, you are absolutely correct. I've been in the natural gas utility industry for over 35 years and all of our electronic equipment has to be calibrated once a month. You will most likely never see a gas utility use a electronic manometer because of a calibration issues. In Court depositions the water manometer is absolute & the plaintiff's attorney can never question that one for calibration. So that being said there should always be 2 pressure test one with the gauge as shown in the video and one with a U tube manometer after all the equipment is reconnected ( lower operating pressure test will prove all the Appliance Connections, whether any gas control are passing, any gas cocks are passing & prove the complete gas system). You're kidding yourself if you're relying on only one pressure test. I've been involved with too many depositions when contractors only rely on the main piping pressure test.
Thank you for your informative video.
What do you do when you "check everything" and you still have a leak, small or large? How can I find a gas leak if it is underground(just dirt and grass)
Thanks again
If you really can't find it then you should take a section off and just test that section only. If it is underground, it souds like a replacement, thanks!
Can I go from 1/2” gas pipe to 3/4” pipe after the gas manifold to run it outside and not have a noticeable drop in pressure or flow?
It all depends on length and turns. I would only run it in the same or a smaller size after a main trunk or manifold but that is only if my manifold would support the extra btu's. Here is a video on gas line sizing, thanks- ua-cam.com/video/MY31HlLdn4M/v-deo.html
finally someone that knows what they are talking about...it is scary these guys using compressors and putting 30-50 psi into the system.
Ha ha thank you Rod Paletta! There is lot of misinformation out there.
And why not put 50 psi in a gas line? Because the velocity of the air rushing out a leak can carry debris into the hole, sealing it temporarily. 2 years later, the now rusted chip has fallen away and , voila"! Boom.
It will actually cause a leak
How many ‘dislikes’ did this video get so far???? I demand a counter just like the ‘likes’ get. Damnit!!!
Do not put the pressure through any gas controls like the valve.
Thats right, thanks Donald!
Our town inspector requires a 5lb guage only, nothing higher. We have propane which is normal about 10lb. ..go figure.
He requires, it is not the code that requires. Also do you mean 10-14" wc not psi. In residential, it is just a little less than 1/2 a psi. 27.6" WC for 1 psi
Why does he show us this video if he says to not try this at home?
I put these out for younger HVACR techs and for continuing ed for those techs with experience, thanks
45 “all-rights” in 7 1/2 minutes. Holy cow man. Very helpful video but mind numbingly repetitive with your favorite phrase.
My inspector always want to see 30 lb for 30 minutes.
👍📽
Thanks Wayne!
"allright"
So the red knob turn off thing just before the flexible stove line I need to take that off and cap it ?