@@liggerstuxin1he uses the completely wrong mounting tool. When installing barrels you should use a reaction style rod with a top fin to keep the upper from flexing or in this case he put all the tension on the take down pins as well as the barrel index pin. You can shear barrel index pins doing it the way he did in the video. Also he uses non milspec materials for the barrel extension and barrel nut all you need is some aeroshell thats milspec.
Out of curiosity, what is the reasoning behind torquing then backing the nut out until final torque? I get sneaking up on the final number, as is done a lot with working on cars, but never have backed something out to just torque it higher again.
In layman terms... double torqueing accounts for bolt stretch and helps prevent it from coming loose/losing the desired torque spec. Think of it like a head bolt.
I had to thermal fit my barrel. I put the barrel in my freezer for a couple of hours then used a heat gun on the upper. I had maybe 10 seconds to get it seated.
Seems a little excessive to seat a barrel. I wish I would have know this about the enhanced upper before I bought it. What brand of barrel do you have?
Yeah.... the part that goes inside the upper is made for tightening the barrel nut. So you don't put unnecessary pressure on the aluminum upper receiver. The way he has it, is mostly used for cleaning or installing other accessories other than a barrel.
IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED TO USE LOCTITE !!! THE REASON FOR LOCTITE IS FOR WHEN YOU CANNOT TORQUE A PART!! NO REAL RIFLE MANUFACTURER WILL RECOMMEND USING IT AT THIS POINT. I laugh when people use blue loctite on gas block screws. That shit will turn to powder after one day of shooting. It would help if you had a high-temp thread locker like Rockset.
Do you have to time the barrel nut to let the gas tube pass? Also do people bed and lap their barrel for these types of builds? I haven’t seen anyone do it on the enhanced M5 upper.
I just did mine today and after torquing, there was a rib right in the middle and wouldn’t allow the gas tube to go past it. I shaved that one rib down with my Dremel to allow the gas tube to go in. I didn’t really see another way around it.
@@tollav the barrel itself was stuck in the receiver. I successfully got it out with no damage, used a pvc pipe through the receiver, and smacked the F out of it with a hammer. Tried the same thing with a wooden dowel at first, but the dowel kept breaking.
Technically you over torqued it. 65 foot pounds is measured at the head of the torque wrench. There's another 1-2 inches added to the length of the wrench. Torque multiplication means it's going to be more then 65 foot pounds. Will it matter, no absolutely not. Just sayin. You can find conversation formulas on line if you want to know what you torqued it to.
Real Avid has an AR10 retention rod.
😂 Great video on “How to NOT install a barrel “……. Just as educational as a “ how to” though. 👍🏻
Can you explain why?
Yeah, what parts are you criticizing? The way he uses his torque wrench is my guess.
@@liggerstuxin1he uses the completely wrong mounting tool. When installing barrels you should use a reaction style rod with a top fin to keep the upper from flexing or in this case he put all the tension on the take down pins as well as the barrel index pin. You can shear barrel index pins doing it the way he did in the video. Also he uses non milspec materials for the barrel extension and barrel nut all you need is some aeroshell thats milspec.
Good deal on shootingsurplus for the vise block.
Out of curiosity, what is the reasoning behind torquing then backing the nut out until final torque? I get sneaking up on the final number, as is done a lot with working on cars, but never have backed something out to just torque it higher again.
In layman terms... double torqueing accounts for bolt stretch and helps prevent it from coming loose/losing the desired torque spec. Think of it like a head bolt.
It’s because it stretches
I did that when I installed mine. All the information I had read recommended it.
I had to thermal fit my barrel. I put the barrel in my freezer for a couple of hours then used a heat gun on the upper. I had maybe 10 seconds to get it seated.
Seems a little excessive to seat a barrel. I wish I would have know this about the enhanced upper before I bought it. What brand of barrel do you have?
Next time just get a block of wood on barrel and hammer it in, it'll go.
How easy is it to remove that enhanced piece? Cos I have one M5 coming, but will put on a Hera IRS Quad on it instead.
You know that vice block is supposed to be 2 pieces. One piece goes into the upper and that vice block bolts to the piece into upper.
Yep.... the other part is meant for applying torque to the barrel nut. I wouldn't copy this guy...
Yeah.... the part that goes inside the upper is made for tightening the barrel nut. So you don't put unnecessary pressure on the aluminum upper receiver. The way he has it, is mostly used for cleaning or installing other accessories other than a barrel.
do you have worry about timing the m5e1?
LOL, some people using anti-seize while some other using loctite to lock it in place.
IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED TO USE LOCTITE !!! THE REASON FOR LOCTITE IS FOR WHEN YOU CANNOT TORQUE A PART!! NO REAL RIFLE MANUFACTURER WILL RECOMMEND USING IT AT THIS POINT. I laugh when people use blue loctite on gas block screws. That shit will turn to powder after one day of shooting. It would help if you had a high-temp thread locker like Rockset.
Loctite LB 8060 is a thread lubricant and anti-sieze
Do you have to time the barrel nut to let the gas tube pass? Also do people bed and lap their barrel for these types of builds? I haven’t seen anyone do it on the enhanced M5 upper.
I just did mine today and after torquing, there was a rib right in the middle and wouldn’t allow the gas tube to go past it. I shaved that one rib down with my Dremel to allow the gas tube to go in. I didn’t really see another way around it.
@@jacobpayne1723 Thanks man. I have used barrel shims before to time the nut, but I think I'll just dremel too
@@jacobpayne1723 lol, you could've shimmed or tighten a bit more, since the torque value for a barrel is a spread, and not an exact number.
How much is that vice and what brand ?
But how to remove a barrel that is STUCK? Like really stuck…
HEAT!! LOL That will more than likely work. Is the barrel nut stuck or is the barrel itself in the receiver?
@@tollav the barrel itself was stuck in the receiver. I successfully got it out with no damage, used a pvc pipe through the receiver, and smacked the F out of it with a hammer. Tried the same thing with a wooden dowel at first, but the dowel kept breaking.
Love how you skip important things
Technically you over torqued it. 65 foot pounds is measured at the head of the torque wrench. There's another 1-2 inches added to the length of the wrench. Torque multiplication means it's going to be more then 65 foot pounds. Will it matter, no absolutely not. Just sayin. You can find conversation formulas on line if you want to know what you torqued it to.
If the torque wrench is orthogonal to the crows foot, there is no need for math.
90 degree to craw foot, is the torque at the wrench
Your loc tite looks more like never seize
Loctite LB 8060 is a thread lubricant and anti-sieze
Its not a notch, it is a pin.
The pin fits into the notch.
🙌🙌😂