Thank you for this! Mom's sprinkler system has a significant drip at this same point, so I assumed it was from the ball joint valve not closing completely. When I turned on the valve, there's also a small crack in the pipe, (probably from freezing over the NE winter). I am no plumber by any means, but fairly handy, so I'm gonna give this a shot. Dad passed from Covid in Dec., so now we are having to learn how to do all these little house repairs ourselves. He would have taken care of it, probably without Mom ever even knowing it had been done! Learn something new every day, right?
Hello. Greeting fellow Nebraskan! Sorry to hear about your father. Covid stole too many good souls…. I feel fortunate to still have both of mine, but wonder about life without them when the time comes. Yes, the NE winters can take a toll on these systems. Ever since I started winterizing my system, I’ve had no problems. I recommend winterizing to help save a bunch of work in the spring. Best of luck!
The plastic pipe will get brittle when exposed to the elements. Make sure you wrap them to protect from the sun and freezing. I like to use galvanized pipes for anything that's above grade. Helpful video, Thanks for posting.
I am doing a bunch of repairs on mine. And wishing that I had galvanized pipes because the PVC got so brittle in the sun. Do you think I could go from PVC underground to galvanized up to the backflow preventer?
This setup MIGHT benefit from a “true union” ball valve installation (unions on both ends of the valve- CEPEX or HydroSeal Canada are good ones)? Yes, they are a little more expensive. But they will facilitate taking this assembly apart next time. You won’t have to cut and replace your pipe assembly. Just undo the unions and adjust or replace the bad valve. Good video, showing a common problem. Thanks for sharing!
That’s exactly what I wish I had! I’d remove it in the winter and cap the pipes. There’s always the risk of a leak or crack come spring time. Even when I drain the system months prior to a freeze. Thanks for the tip!
Fast Fix Seen good prices for Hydro Seal Canada on Amazon. CEPEX is a Spanish Company but I’ve seen a few of theirs on EBay. The valves are PVC or CPVC. Also, supposedly, they’re rebuildable and adjustable. You can get replacement parts for them if needed? Hope this helps.
I am certified to test and repair backflow valve assemblies. Your assembly should have not been installed that close to your house. You need to know how lucky you are that the ball valves came loose from the valve body so easily. Normally you need to place the ball valves in a vise and use large wrenches to get them apart. It is odd that you have an air chuck fitting on one of your test cocks. I assume your water authority does not require (in violation of Federal Law as well as most States) you to have the valve tested annually since the air chuck fitting would be in the way to make that test. Your water authority would require you to have that assembly tested to make sure it works properly after a repair. You did a nice job!
I been doin sprinklers for over 15 years every single backflow is against the house like that no matter who is doin systems or what plumber is puttin them in even some ppl be havein inside ones tapped off the meter some dont want that big ugly backflow seen outside i repair these 24/7 each ball valve does not DOES NOT need to be super tight ...
@fastfix every year to save you this problem sense i specialize in sprinklers for over 10 years when the fall comes and your ready to shut your system down for winterizing drian that backflow leave them bleeders left open for the unit to breath and each ball valve leave in a half open and closed position so the sides wont split again your not properly doing it buddy but thumbs up to your repair lol
Hey there. You’re correct. This was the first year with my house and I had no experience with sprinkler systems. Learned the hard way I guess, but I winterize every time now. Thanks for the suggestions and comment 👍
Hello. Others have said this and I looked up local codes. I couldn’t find anything that says an inspection is required. Can you cite something specific regarding this? Perhaps it depends on where you live?
I just replaced the whole valve bc the original one was about 5 years old and our water is pretty "hard" here, but after installing the new valve and turning it back on it is still giving me the issue of leaking underneath the black canopy cover. I tried the bleed screws and that seem to help stop the leak, but now after about an hour went back to check on it and it is still giving me a very light very slow leak. How can this be when it is completely a new unit? Please advise when you can of how I can flush out the debis without having to remove the whole thing. Thanks in advance.
Hello Leah. Sorry about the late reply. Usually, the Teflon seal is to blame for slow leaks under the black cover. It’s the semi-clear disc that sits under the black canopy. In your shoes, I’d remove that piece and make sure there’s no rough edges or bends. You’d think a new one would be good to go from the factory, but sometimes quality controls fail. Are you noticing debris in the back-flow preventer? If so, remove the canopy, and all the internal parts that seal the unit such as the Teflon disc and plunger. Turn your water on and let it blow itself out. Replace the parts and check again. Hope this helps 👍
No mention here, but you must used an approved part when repairing any type of BF assembly, and that includes the shutoff valves. USC Manual 10th edition are the rules we go by in Texas. Also agree with lunker012 about the test cocks, and they must be tested after any repair.
@@JoshuaAmaral Considering he's saving hundreds of dollars to avoid a plumber coming out he could spare $75 to make sure he's not sucking fertilizer and animal waste back into his drinking water / the neighbors drinking water. The book was literally written to prevent fly by night homeowners from fucking up themselves or others.
I'm having the same issue with the same ball valve that you replaced here, but I don't have the pvc pipe, they're both copper. Am I going to have to cut the pipe to disassemble the backflow preventer?
Wow, you have copper? I’m surprised no one has stolen your pipes! Honestly, I’m not familiar with copper systems. If there are no threaded joints to unscrew, you may indeed have to cut the pipes. I’d call and ask a sprinkler professional to be honest. Sounds like there could be an expensive mistake should you do it incorrectly. Sorry, I don’t have any ideas for you. Best of luck.
I have the same backflow and my valve just cracked in the same spot! I can't find this exact quarter turn 1 inch valve anywhere! I can't even find it on Amazon. Do you have a link of where you purchased yours?
Hmm, that’s odd. They’re pretty universal. This is one I bought. It’s a 3/4 inch. #1 TEST PORT/BALL VALVE 3/4 X 3/4 (TAPPED); VARIOUS MANUFACTURERS www.amazon.com/dp/B004NKTC3E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_I7xQAkkDTrFyt
I have the same type of setup: BP with test cocks on the valve (I have two test cocks, one upstream from the BP and on one on the BP), and PVC pipe downstream from the BP. I have read that you should not connect the compressor at the BP, and many videos show them connecting it to a port downstream from the BP. However, I don't have a port downstream from the BP. If I connect the compression to either of my test cocks, the air flows out of the BP. I understand that can damage the BP. I am using 60 PSI pressure. Any suggestions on how to blow out my system??
Jamshed I honestly hadn't realized connecting air before the BP was potentially harmful. I wonder why air pressure to the BP would be potentially hazardous? Obviously the PSI would be much greater than the water pressure...maybe that's it. Either way, if you don't have a shut off valve plumbed for a test cock after the BP then you might be out of luck. Unless there's a way to get air pressure in the system at the distribution valves. But then you'd be pressurizing the system which would lead back to the BP. You could add a shut off valve after the BP in order to solve your problem, but if the system wasn't built with one, perhaps it's unnecessary to blow the system out. I'm not taking pressure to my system this season. I shut the water off in early September and hope the water evaporates. Sorry I don't have a solid answer for you. Best of luck!
Yes to blow out system without ruining valve/seal in the breaker valve . Cut pvc after the 4 inches below the 90 home depot /lowes sells a 1 inch slip slip with a 1/2 inch threaded female glue that in . On internet or hardware store buy a brass 1/2 inch male to a 1/4 female also get the1/4 inch threaded male brass cap to close off when not blowing out system. Teflon tape clockwise the 1/2 brass male end and screw into your 1/2 in. Pvc female now get a quick connect to 1/4 in. Threaded male and connect air compressor and shut main water supply off and close brass valve oclosest to your fitting you just made ti stop the air from pressurising backflow preventer. Hope this helped
Hello. The green corrosion is caused by small water leaks likely from the ball valve you want to replace. You can remove the coloration using lime/lemon juice and baking soda. There’s plenty of how-to’s regarding that online. Otherwise, follow the steps in this video to replace the ball valve. Best of luck and thanks for the question
@@FastFixUA-cam I had the plastic PVC piece that threaded into the end of the ball joint piece break off right at the edge so you can't unscrew it!! I use the Dremel to wear down the PVC to the point where it got to the threads with a drum sanding bit. I got the ball joint off and I soaked the lower part of it and acetone in order to get the PVC out of the threads.
And this is why I've stopped buying from amazon. Go to your local stores to get your stop, which supports your local community business/economy, people.
Okay. If the overflow is spraying, that is normal after the water has been shut off for a while. You have to have the spigot open completely in order for enough water pressure to buildup and close the overflow. Sometimes it takes several seconds. If it has other issues, I’ve got a video that might help. I’ll link in a comment below this one.
Install a reValv™ kit www.revalv.com and completely eliminate back flow pressure valve failures caused by freezing. It is an easy, affordable DIY kit. A great idea and investment.
Also, Can somebody explain how the backflow preventer is useful ? First of all, in the normal condition, the city water has a 50 psi pressure preventing a backflow. Second of all, if something happens like the main water shuts off in the main line , the water inside the irrigation system cannot come back because first it's in lower level and second the irrigation valves are closed preventing the water motion.... It's an unnecessary device which usually breaks due to cold weather adding a burden on homeowners....
"The valves that turn on and off your irrigation system are not sufficient to stop backflow. The purpose of the backflow preventer is to protect you when the valve breaks or leaks, which all valves will do eventually." I got some useful information about your question here: www.irrigationtutorials.com/irrigation-backflow-preventers/
Thanks for the response. What I meant from irrigation valves were the solenoid valves in the irrigation system. I took a look at the link you provided and it has addressed my question at the last paragraph of "why do you need the backflow preventer". However, there is a flaw in the presented argument. It says that solenoid valves are directional. This means simply that they don't work in the opposite direction. But, surprisingly, the article says that it works in the opposite direction to prove its point! With its own logic, solenoid valves are on-way and should prevent the backflow.
MrAmoslemi I was surprised there was so much argument about backflow preventers to begin with. Truthfully, I never really considered their necessity looking at it from your point of view. Well done!
Also depends if the solenoid is a normally open or normally closed valve. In a loss of electricity to control the solenoid, a normally open valve would present a cross contamination risk with the presented argument of the PVB being redundant device. Regardless of the argument for the sake of it, it’s the law and the water purveyors right to protect their water. Wouldn’t be a good idea to remove it saying the solenoid prevents it and try explaining it to the purveyor. Sounds like fines and jail time. Lol
Thank you for this! Mom's sprinkler system has a significant drip at this same point, so I assumed it was from the ball joint valve not closing completely. When I turned on the valve, there's also a small crack in the pipe, (probably from freezing over the NE winter). I am no plumber by any means, but fairly handy, so I'm gonna give this a shot. Dad passed from Covid in Dec., so now we are having to learn how to do all these little house repairs ourselves. He would have taken care of it, probably without Mom ever even knowing it had been done! Learn something new every day, right?
Hello. Greeting fellow Nebraskan! Sorry to hear about your father. Covid stole too many good souls…. I feel fortunate to still have both of mine, but wonder about life without them when the time comes.
Yes, the NE winters can take a toll on these systems. Ever since I started winterizing my system, I’ve had no problems. I recommend winterizing to help save a bunch of work in the spring. Best of luck!
Thanks a lot for sharing. I’m in same situation now and I’m going follow your way .
riveredgeman you bet! This video tends to get a lot of hits after the winter season. Go figure... hope it goes well for you.
Leave the valves 45degree angle in the winter it will prevent cracking
REdUDEMAN yep, good advice!
@@FastFixUA-cam Thanks guys! Found mine cracked this spring, this'll help for next winter.
StheManroy you’re welcome! Best of luck with your repair.
The plastic pipe will get brittle when exposed to the elements. Make sure you wrap them to protect from the sun and freezing.
I like to use galvanized pipes for anything that's above grade.
Helpful video, Thanks for posting.
Nope. You referring to old plastic technology.
I am doing a bunch of repairs on mine. And wishing that I had galvanized pipes because the PVC got so brittle in the sun. Do you think I could go from PVC underground to galvanized up to the backflow preventer?
This setup MIGHT benefit from a “true union” ball valve installation (unions on both ends of the valve- CEPEX or HydroSeal Canada are good ones)? Yes, they are a little more expensive. But they will facilitate taking this assembly apart next time. You won’t have to cut and replace your pipe assembly. Just undo the unions and adjust or replace the bad valve. Good video, showing a common problem. Thanks for sharing!
That’s exactly what I wish I had! I’d remove it in the winter and cap the pipes. There’s always the risk of a leak or crack come spring time. Even when I drain the system months prior to a freeze. Thanks for the tip!
Fast Fix Seen good prices for Hydro Seal Canada on Amazon. CEPEX is a Spanish Company but I’ve seen a few of theirs on EBay. The valves are PVC or CPVC. Also, supposedly, they’re rebuildable and adjustable. You can get replacement parts for them if needed? Hope this helps.
It does. Much appreciated!
I am certified to test and repair backflow valve assemblies. Your assembly should have not been installed that close to your house. You need to know how lucky you are that the ball valves came loose from the valve body so easily. Normally you need to place the ball valves in a vise and use large wrenches to get them apart. It is odd that you have an air chuck fitting on one of your test cocks. I assume your water authority does not require (in violation of Federal Law as well as most States) you to have the valve tested annually since the air chuck fitting would be in the way to make that test. Your water authority would require you to have that assembly tested to make sure it works properly after a repair. You did a nice job!
Lunker012 it’s Ben replaced before every year see the air port in the test cock valve he dose it him self and leaves the valves closed cracking them
It's how they build houses MODERN houses...the are all close to walls.
I been doin sprinklers for over 15 years every single backflow is against the house like that no matter who is doin systems or what plumber is puttin them in even some ppl be havein inside ones tapped off the meter some dont want that big ugly backflow seen outside i repair these 24/7 each ball valve does not DOES NOT need to be super tight ...
@fastfix every year to save you this problem sense i specialize in sprinklers for over 10 years when the fall comes and your ready to shut your system down for winterizing drian that backflow leave them bleeders left open for the unit to breath and each ball valve leave in a half open and closed position so the sides wont split again your not properly doing it buddy but thumbs up to your repair lol
Hey there. You’re correct. This was the first year with my house and I had no experience with sprinkler systems. Learned the hard way I guess, but I winterize every time now. Thanks for the suggestions and comment 👍
Don’t forget the laws, once you work on the system you’ve got to get it inspected.
Hello. Others have said this and I looked up local codes. I couldn’t find anything that says an inspection is required. Can you cite something specific regarding this? Perhaps it depends on where you live?
I just replaced the whole valve bc the original one was about 5 years old and our water is pretty "hard" here, but after installing the new valve and turning it back on it is still giving me the issue of leaking underneath the black canopy cover. I tried the bleed screws and that seem to help stop the leak, but now after about an hour went back to check on it and it is still giving me a very light very slow leak. How can this be when it is completely a new unit? Please advise when you can of how I can flush out the debis without having to remove the whole thing. Thanks in advance.
Hello Leah. Sorry about the late reply. Usually, the Teflon seal is to blame for slow leaks under the black cover. It’s the semi-clear disc that sits under the black canopy. In your shoes, I’d remove that piece and make sure there’s no rough edges or bends. You’d think a new one would be good to go from the factory, but sometimes quality controls fail. Are you noticing debris in the back-flow preventer? If so, remove the canopy, and all the internal parts that seal the unit such as the Teflon disc and plunger. Turn your water on and let it blow itself out. Replace the parts and check again. Hope this helps 👍
No mention here, but you must used an approved part when repairing any type of BF assembly, and that includes the shutoff valves. USC Manual 10th edition are the rules we go by in Texas. Also agree with lunker012 about the test cocks, and they must be tested after any repair.
he is not a legit plumber just a homer owners saving money he dont need to be by the book lol
@@JoshuaAmaral Considering he's saving hundreds of dollars to avoid a plumber coming out he could spare $75 to make sure he's not sucking fertilizer and animal waste back into his drinking water / the neighbors drinking water.
The book was literally written to prevent fly by night homeowners from fucking up themselves or others.
I'm having the same issue with the same ball valve that you replaced here, but I don't have the pvc pipe, they're both copper. Am I going to have to cut the pipe to disassemble the backflow preventer?
Wow, you have copper? I’m surprised no one has stolen your pipes! Honestly, I’m not familiar with copper systems. If there are no threaded joints to unscrew, you may indeed have to cut the pipes. I’d call and ask a sprinkler professional to be honest. Sounds like there could be an expensive mistake should you do it incorrectly. Sorry, I don’t have any ideas for you. Best of luck.
To bad they don’t sale that replacement on amazon anymore for less that $70. I wish I could find one for $29
Agreed! That price seems to be long gone…
I have a Scott Model X1649 is that repairable? Where can i get parts? Should it be outside or inside? I live in Michigan.
Hello. I’d input your model number into Amazon and see what pulls up. Unsure what you mean by outside or inside.
you got a like just because you are hungover!
Appreciate it! Hangover gone and fix is proving the test of time 👍
I have the same backflow and my valve just cracked in the same spot! I can't find this exact quarter turn 1 inch valve anywhere! I can't even find it on Amazon. Do you have a link of where you purchased yours?
Hmm, that’s odd. They’re pretty universal. This is one I bought. It’s a 3/4 inch.
#1 TEST PORT/BALL VALVE 3/4 X 3/4 (TAPPED); VARIOUS MANUFACTURERS www.amazon.com/dp/B004NKTC3E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_I7xQAkkDTrFyt
Now they are $55 on Amazon unless I’m looking at the wrong ones. What do you call the vent hole so I can keep searching? Thanks for the video.
I have the same type of setup: BP with test cocks on the valve (I have two test cocks, one upstream from the BP and on one on the BP), and PVC pipe downstream from the BP. I have read that you should not connect the compressor at the BP, and many videos show them connecting it to a port downstream from the BP. However, I don't have a port downstream from the BP. If I connect the compression to either of my test cocks, the air flows out of the BP. I understand that can damage the BP. I am using 60 PSI pressure.
Any suggestions on how to blow out my system??
Jamshed I honestly hadn't realized connecting air before the BP was potentially harmful. I wonder why air pressure to the BP would be potentially hazardous? Obviously the PSI would be much greater than the water pressure...maybe that's it. Either way, if you don't have a shut off valve plumbed for a test cock after the BP then you might be out of luck. Unless there's a way to get air pressure in the system at the distribution valves. But then you'd be pressurizing the system which would lead back to the BP. You could add a shut off valve after the BP in order to solve your problem, but if the system wasn't built with one, perhaps it's unnecessary to blow the system out. I'm not taking pressure to my system this season. I shut the water off in early September and hope the water evaporates. Sorry I don't have a solid answer for you. Best of luck!
Yes to blow out system without ruining valve/seal in the breaker valve . Cut pvc after the 4 inches below the 90 home depot /lowes sells a 1 inch slip slip with a 1/2 inch threaded female glue that in . On internet or hardware store buy a brass 1/2 inch male to a 1/4 female also get the1/4 inch threaded male brass cap to close off when not blowing out system. Teflon tape clockwise the 1/2 brass male end and screw into your 1/2 in. Pvc female now get a quick connect to 1/4 in. Threaded male and connect air compressor and shut main water supply off and close brass valve oclosest to your fitting you just made ti stop the air from pressurising backflow preventer. Hope this helped
Do you have any tips for someone that has quite a bit of green corrosion all over these pieces and just wants to remove a ball valve?
Hello. The green corrosion is caused by small water leaks likely from the ball valve you want to replace. You can remove the coloration using lime/lemon juice and baking soda. There’s plenty of how-to’s regarding that online. Otherwise, follow the steps in this video to replace the ball valve. Best of luck and thanks for the question
@@FastFixUA-cam I had the plastic PVC piece that threaded into the end of the ball joint piece break off right at the edge so you can't unscrew it!!
I use the Dremel to wear down the PVC to the point where it got to the threads with a drum sanding bit.
I got the ball joint off and I soaked the lower part of it and acetone in order to get the PVC out of the threads.
Wd40
try the new freeze tolerant ball valve that has a freeze plug. life time warranty not to crack !
Wow, I had no idea these existed! Thanks for the advice. If my ball valve fails again, I'll definitely go this route. Good stuff.
You probably want to put in a union for easy repairs next time.
RiceFlavoredGum that's what I'm gonna do. Put a union on both sides cause I've had to take the dang thing apart so many times
good job.
why replace the valve with the same type that will freeze and crack the next time???
Insulate the piping through winter and it won't crack again.
And this is why I've stopped buying from amazon. Go to your local stores to get your stop, which supports your local community business/economy, people.
Agreed! I try and buy local when possible, which is often. But sometimes Amazon is there in a pinch. 👍
For me the top valve sprays when it’s open how do I fix it
What do you mean by top valve?
@@FastFixUA-cam if you look at yours right by the overflow thing, and when I open it it sprays
Okay. If the overflow is spraying, that is normal after the water has been shut off for a while. You have to have the spigot open completely in order for enough water pressure to buildup and close the overflow. Sometimes it takes several seconds. If it has other issues, I’ve got a video that might help. I’ll link in a comment below this one.
Here’s the video: Backflow Preventer Repair
ua-cam.com/video/929yMUc6vCI/v-deo.html
@@FastFixUA-cam thank you, but it’s the valve by it that sprays it’s like a crack in the pipe or something
Install a reValv™ kit www.revalv.com and completely eliminate back flow pressure valve failures caused by freezing. It is an easy, affordable DIY kit. A great idea and investment.
open the ball valve and drain the water next time... thank god you cut all the couplings out
???
Also, Can somebody explain how the backflow preventer is useful ? First of all, in the normal condition, the city water has a 50 psi pressure preventing a backflow. Second of all, if something happens like the main water shuts off in the main line , the water inside the irrigation system cannot come back because first it's in lower level and second the irrigation valves are closed preventing the water motion.... It's an unnecessary device which usually breaks due to cold weather adding a burden on homeowners....
"The valves that turn on and off your irrigation system are not sufficient to stop backflow. The purpose of the backflow preventer is to protect you when the valve breaks or leaks, which all valves will do eventually."
I got some useful information about your question here:
www.irrigationtutorials.com/irrigation-backflow-preventers/
Thanks for the response. What I meant from irrigation valves were the solenoid valves in the irrigation system. I took a look at the link you provided and it has addressed my question at the last paragraph of "why do you need the backflow preventer". However, there is a flaw in the presented argument. It says that solenoid valves are directional. This means simply that they don't work in the opposite direction. But, surprisingly, the article says that it works in the opposite direction to prove its point! With its own logic, solenoid valves are on-way and should prevent the backflow.
MrAmoslemi I was surprised there was so much argument about backflow preventers to begin with. Truthfully, I never really considered their necessity looking at it from your point of view. Well done!
Also depends if the solenoid is a normally open or normally closed valve. In a loss of electricity to control the solenoid, a normally open valve would present a cross contamination risk with the presented argument of the PVB being redundant device. Regardless of the argument for the sake of it, it’s the law and the water purveyors right to protect their water. Wouldn’t be a good idea to remove it saying the solenoid prevents it and try explaining it to the purveyor. Sounds like fines and jail time. Lol
@@FastFixUA-cam Link doesn't work
Could you use a PVC ball valve instead of this one?
That probably depends on the rules and regulations of your water district.