Ron, even though I do what you do, I still watch your videos beginning to end, and I enjoy every minute. I always pick up a thing or two that I never knew before. Just like you, I work mostly alone, and the only way I learn new stuff is by watching someone like you who loves their trade and is kind enough to share their knowledge, not to mention put the extra time into editing the videos for us. Thank you, bud, I really appreciate all of your work.
I appreciate all of your compliments. I really do. Hearing feedback from other electricians telling me the they are learning from me is really flattering. There were a lot of people who taught me along the way too, and one day you'll be teaching the next generation as well.
On another You tube video I saw a tip about putting a small block behind the box to brace it when people insert plugs into the receptacle. Seems like a good idea.
hi Ron; love your videos; since i am a "joe homeowner" i like the simple jobs like this project that are more DIY than some of the more complex videos; also would also like if you could explain more detail on the wiring that you do with the boxes and receptacles etc.;
Good video I am wanting to run electricity to my outside shed that's like 50 ft away from my house question is can I run electricity out there if I don't know what service amp I have at house I want to install my dryer some lights and outlets how can I know what service amp I have and what wiring would I need to run any and all help is greatly appreciated
Hey Ron, nice work. Did you direct-bury that branch line or pipe it in? Also, here’s a little trick I stumbled onto that works a treat for getting long screws threaded down and ready for torquing that works only with a removable shaft screwdriver. Simply remove the shaft from the handle and twirl the shaft between your thumb and index finger and you’ll get some serious turns on that screw in no time and be ready with the handle for final torquing as-needed. It works just as fast (and maybe faster in some situations) than using a powered driver and weighs a lot less too. As much as I like power tools like you, I really find this trick to be very useful. I’m also wondering if you’ve ever tried the DeWalt gyroscopic and what do you think? I know you’re a Milwaukee guy and the M12 Surge seems like a good step up from a motorized screwdriver like the DeWalt, but I’d be interested in hearing your thoughts.
I highly endorse the M12 Surge. I use it for practically everything. The underground feeder (UF cable) was there from the previous shed that was there. I had nothing to do with the installation of it other than reconnecting it to the new wiring.
I am learning a lot from watching your videos. I do have one question. Is the UF cable buried “as is” or is it encased in PVC conduit? If it’s not, do you need a special bushing or duct seal where the UF cable leaves the PVC conduit. I’m just curious. I hope my question makes sense. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Much appreciated.
The MC cable costs more and adds time to your labor but the code if very specific about "subject to physical damage" and here in an open shed where shovels, rakes, etc are stored is clearly a place where NM cable could easily be pierced.
Nm cable is hardly ever allowed to be exposed except in basement ceilings. He could probably have gotten away with a conduit sleeve in the walls, or putting a board to cover romex.
Thanks for a great video! As a suggestion, I probably would have hammered the two metal tabs on the metal box to get it a bit more stability; I think I would have pigtailed a ground to the metal box (belt & suspenders), and I would have told the homeowner that the refrigerator in the shed is on a GFCI circuit and that the GFCI could possibly trip causing no electricity to the refrigerator resulting in spoiled food if it trips.
Bonding the box is a requirement of the NEC and it was done. With #10 pinhead screws that box isn't going anywhere. Also, there is no way to make that refrigerator receptacle NON-GFCI protected because the entire circuit is GFCI protected because of the wiring method used here - and was there before I got to do this work. Anytime you use UF wire (abbreviated for UNDERGROUND FEEDER), it must be GFCI protected. Hope this helps.
surprised you don't have a mc/bx rotary cable cutter, I really hated running any because cutting was a pain, especially the heavy steel types. using a cutter you can whistle them out at high speeds and no worries about kinking or nicking the conductors, which I have seen others do. folding until it pops open and using diagonals was the same we were taught too, but I don't think rotary cutters existed then, no AFCI's then and minimal GFCi's used to get the job done.
Yep, everyone in my area uses Romex in their sheds. I'm going with MC. I believe MC is code, is it not? Thanks for the video! @@electricianron_New_Jersey
I just want to run electric to heat, cool light my 8x12 dog shed from the telephone/electric pole a few feet away( the reason I put it there) no trenching (wouldn't make sense to do that) from the house some 300 feet nor use my box in my house. which would cost me $5,000. looking to move from Nj in 6 years and shed is going with me.
Thats kind of a judgement call. Pigtails are becoming more popular for reliability, but there’s nothing wrong with using both screws. Receptacle failures in the jumper tabs are extremely rare.
If you are going to the dig a trench to feed an out building I would always run 12/3 or even 10/3 if its further than 50 feet from the panel. It's not much additional work or cost. You then have an extra circuit for tools or heaters.
Ron, even though I do what you do, I still watch your videos beginning to end, and I enjoy every minute. I always pick up a thing or two that I never knew before. Just like you, I work mostly alone, and the only way I learn new stuff is by watching someone like you who loves their trade and is kind enough to share their knowledge, not to mention put the extra time into editing the videos for us. Thank you, bud, I really appreciate all of your work.
I appreciate all of your compliments. I really do. Hearing feedback from other electricians telling me the they are learning from me is really flattering. There were a lot of people who taught me along the way too, and one day you'll be teaching the next generation as well.
True craftsman! I liked that you chose to use MC cable! Pride and True Master! 💪🏼⚡
On another You tube video I saw a tip about putting a small block behind the box to brace it when people insert plugs into the receptacle. Seems like a good idea.
Im kind of surprised they didn’t want a light, but the customer is always right 😊
thanks for the tip on using longer screws attaching the outlet to the cover will do that on my next install
You must have big sausage fingers like I have.
hi Ron; love your videos; since i am a "joe homeowner" i like the simple jobs like this project that are more DIY than some of the more complex videos; also would also like if you could explain more detail on the wiring that you do with the boxes and receptacles etc.;
Good video I am wanting to run electricity to my outside shed that's like 50 ft away from my house question is can I run electricity out there if I don't know what service amp I have at house I want to install my dryer some lights and outlets how can I know what service amp I have and what wiring would I need to run any and all help is greatly appreciated
Hey Ron, nice work.
Did you direct-bury that branch line or pipe it in?
Also, here’s a little trick I stumbled onto that works a treat for getting long screws threaded down and ready for torquing that works only with a removable shaft screwdriver. Simply remove the shaft from the handle and twirl the shaft between your thumb and index finger and you’ll get some serious turns on that screw in no time and be ready with the handle for final torquing as-needed. It works just as fast (and maybe faster in some situations) than using a powered driver and weighs a lot less too. As much as I like power tools like you, I really find this trick to be very useful.
I’m also wondering if you’ve ever tried the DeWalt gyroscopic and what do you think? I know you’re a Milwaukee guy and the M12 Surge seems like a good step up from a motorized screwdriver like the DeWalt, but I’d be interested in hearing your thoughts.
I highly endorse the M12 Surge. I use it for practically everything. The underground feeder (UF cable) was there from the previous shed that was there. I had nothing to do with the installation of it other than reconnecting it to the new wiring.
Thank you from Old Bridge. Looks like they are building a pool bar. Im doing the same thing. Thanks for the video.
I haven't been back here since last summer when I made the video so I don't know whats going on there since then.
I am learning a lot from watching your videos.
I do have one question. Is the UF cable buried “as is” or is it encased in PVC conduit? If it’s not, do you need a special bushing or duct seal where the UF cable leaves the PVC conduit. I’m just curious. I hope my question makes sense. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Much appreciated.
UF cable stands for underground feeder. You should use PVC wherever the cable is subject physical damage.
why not GFCI install?
Is the use of the mc cable a code requirement or the way you do it?
The MC cable costs more and adds time to your labor but the code if very specific about "subject to physical damage" and here in an open shed where shovels, rakes, etc are stored is clearly a place where NM cable could easily be pierced.
Nm cable is hardly ever allowed to be exposed except in basement ceilings. He could probably have gotten away with a conduit sleeve in the walls, or putting a board to cover romex.
Great video. I enjoy learning from your channel. what’s the label make that you are using. I’m interesting in getting a good label maker.
Thanks for the kind words. It’s a Brother P Touch PTE550W. Best label maker I’ve ever owned. Buy it once and it lasts.
Is there any reason you don’t pigtail the hots and neutral wires? If that outlet goes bad the one downstream won’t work. I’m just asking
Because its not necessary.
Thanks for a great video! As a suggestion, I probably would have hammered the two metal tabs on the metal box to get it a bit more stability; I think I would have pigtailed a ground to the metal box (belt & suspenders), and I would have told the homeowner that the refrigerator in the shed is on a GFCI circuit and that the GFCI could possibly trip causing no electricity to the refrigerator resulting in spoiled food if it trips.
Bonding the box is a requirement of the NEC and it was done. With #10 pinhead screws that box isn't going anywhere. Also, there is no way to make that refrigerator receptacle NON-GFCI protected because the entire circuit is GFCI protected because of the wiring method used here - and was there before I got to do this work. Anytime you use UF wire (abbreviated for UNDERGROUND FEEDER), it must be GFCI protected. Hope this helps.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey thanks much for your reply….we are both on the same “electrical”page!
I doubt it will be any food in that fridge, most likely 🍺🍺
what type of wallpaper is it ?
Should that have been a gfic recp, starting your run with and if not why didn't you wire nut the wires instead of using your device as your splice
He said that circuit had a GFCI breaker.
Could I run conduit up to ceiling with plastic bushing and push romex down to outlets and meet code compliance
Sure, but use a female adaptor with a romex connector to secure the cable to the conduit.
Hi Ron could you use Romex in this application.
Not allowed if "subject to damage". It is a judgment call.
12:19 Well organized!
Organized chaos.
I thought you needed a disconnect when running power to a shed to cut power in an emergency?? Nice install.
There is one-the GFCI breaker in the house panel.
surprised you don't have a mc/bx rotary cable cutter, I really hated running any because cutting was a pain, especially the heavy steel types.
using a cutter you can whistle them out at high speeds and no worries about kinking or nicking the conductors, which I have seen others do. folding until it pops open and using diagonals was the same we were taught too, but I don't think rotary cutters existed then, no AFCI's then and minimal GFCi's used to get the job done.
I have the cutters Greenlee. I must’ve not been able to find them or something.
where get the outlet cover
At the store
If you wanted to install a light overhead,,could you use romex?
You could but I'd stick with using MC cable since that's whats there now.
Can you do a video of a work van tour ?
I think I can do that at some point.
Question: Why wasn't romax used instead of mc cable? Mc a requirement? Just curious.
To protect against physical damage.
Curious to know why you used MC in a residential shop…? Not being critical just curious. I enjoy your vids
Because “romex” would be subject to physical damage.
Yep, everyone in my area uses Romex in their sheds. I'm going with MC. I believe MC is code, is it not? Thanks for the video! @@electricianron_New_Jersey
Awesome video! But man… I do feel bad you’re a jets fan. Lol
One of these years though.
I just want to run electric to heat, cool light my 8x12 dog shed from the telephone/electric pole a few feet away( the reason I put it there) no trenching (wouldn't make sense to do that) from the house some 300 feet nor use my box in my house. which would cost me $5,000. looking to move from Nj in 6 years and shed is going with me.
No light !! Whay ?
330.12(1) MC not permitted where subject to physical damage either - would have had to have been armoured. Still, better than NM, no doubt.
Use a jumper not putting two wires on the receptacle 🤷🏾♂️
Is that what you do at your company?
@@electricianron_New_Jerseypretty much I kinda like it too I’m not saying you did it wrong
Makes the receptacle easier to install with the single wires attached - and if the receptacle fails for any reason the rest of the circuit fails.
Thats kind of a judgement call. Pigtails are becoming more popular for reliability, but there’s nothing wrong with using both screws. Receptacle failures in the jumper tabs are extremely rare.
If you are going to the dig a trench to feed an out building I would always run 12/3 or even 10/3 if its further than 50 feet from the panel. It's not much additional work or cost. You then have an extra circuit for tools or heaters.
I didn’t dig anything.
He said in the intro that the UF was from a previous shed.
Why not pigtail to your receptacle?
I could that and I’m confident that the way it was done will last for decades too.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey it will work, everyone has there own way of doing it. I was taught to pigtail, was just curious.
"See you on the other side" is a scary thing for an electrician to say to me...
you reaching under the shed watch for the copperheads, rattlers, and most importantly yellow jackets, mean little buggers.
You know, I was confident nothing was there being the shed was dropped in place a week before I got there. Definitely good advice though!
When working on concrete please wear your kneepads if not you will regret it later
I have several pads I use from Klein tools. They work great.