5 Ways to Control Your Active Target Module
Вставка
- Опубліковано 15 лип 2024
- This video covers 5 ways to use the yellow wire for the Active Target and Active Target 2 live sonar modules. Covered will be (a) what is the method, (b) how is it hooked up, (c) pluses and minuses of each, and (d) when do you use a specific method. Hopefully this video will answer many of your questions about the dreaded yellow and simplify it for your installation.
These methods also work with other Lowrance modules such as S3100, NEP-2, StructureScan, Sonar Hub, etc. They all use the same power cord and yellow wire wakeup.
Remember: Do it right, do it once.
For your marine electronics needs visit:
BassFishin Electronics: www.bassfishinelectronics.com/
00:00 - Start
01:26 - #1 - Yellow to Red
03:11 - #2 - Yellow to Yellow Wire
04:55 - #3 - Yellow to Switch
07:45 - Separate Electronics Battery?
08:08 - #4 - Yellow to Boat Accessory Switch
09:45 - #5 - Yellow to Solid State Relay (SSR)
12:50 - Summary
14:57 - Which One Do I Use? - Спорт
Thanks for this video, Garry. I installed my switch on the bow today, and am looking forward to finishing the wiring this weekend.
You're welcome. Let me know if you have any questions. I hope that it goes well for you.
What a great video. Thank you!!
Thank you very much. I appreciate you watching the video, I hope that it helped you.
Great info! Much appreciated
Thank you. I hope that you it helped you. If you have any questions please post them here and I'll try to get back you.
Great video Gary!
Thank you! I am glad that you liked it. I appreciate you taking your time to watch the video.
Great presentation. Method #5 is the best but I think with my current setup I’d have to use method #3
That would be the best for your boat. I don't think that Ranger puts Acc switches on the bow on that series of aluminum boats. Thanks the compliment and thanks for watching.
Thank You Gary...! Lowrance could learn a few things abut consumer support, not everyone can afford a marine shop to do the install.
You're welcome. I hope that you got something out of watching the video. And most companies could learn a bit about customer support, although I can list a couple that are heads above everyone in the industry.
It can get expensive to pay a shop to do the work. And unless you know the shop, the quality and reliability may be lacking. I am trying to show how to do the work while explaining why things are done in a certain way.
Thank you for this. After watching the video, I really enjoyed reading the comments, questions and your answers. Great questions, very practical, and very informative answers. I'm looking to upgrade to AT and having this aspect of the installation explained up front (yellow wire turn on signal) is priceless. I really appreciate the discussions surrounding what gauge and type of wire to use (solid or stranded?).
One suggestion for your instructive demo would be a simple diagram, on paper, of each method, including power source(s), switches, isolation relays, location of fuses along the circuits, and their amp ratings (the draw of the various electronic parts of the system). An electronics instructor once told us that a picture is worth 1,024 (1k) words. Ha, ha, long time ago.
Also appreciated is the tip on why one may want to save battery power by turning off the AT (black box) module when not in use yet continue to use the other fish finder functions. Thanks again.
Thanks you for watching the video. I tried to make this video as simple as possible and tried to cover the same things for each type of switching.
That's a great suggestion for wiring diagrams. I post on for the SSD usage on my community page a while back. My electronics classes were before the big age of digital, so only 1,000 from them. 8^)
For the yellow wire 18 AWG marine tinned stranded is the best to use. I have also use 16 AWG as well. There is very little current draw on the circuit. But you have to consider the wire flex if you go any smaller.
I do try to add in tips in the videos. I've helped a lot of people over the years, and I want to share my knowledge.
Thanks again for the comment and watching the video!
Liked your video, but there is a 6th way to wire up the active target.
Fishermen can utilize a 24 volt trolling motor circuit for the active target. It’s helps elevate burding the 12 system. I also used a relay to control my 24 wiring to the active target, just as you did in example #5.
Normally it is not a good idea to use the trolling motor circuit for electronics. There are too many transient noise spikes for clean power. Without clean power, you will get noise induced on the transducer which will lead to degraded signal quality and then shown on the screen.
Good video. I was curious why you didn't mention connecting the red and yellow to a switch and then before the switch have your fuse. TIA
Thank you, I'm glad that you liked the video.
That is another way to handle the yellow wire, I couldn't put all the ways in the video. I do prefer to only switch the signal wire to minimize contact noise and wear from switching power. Obviously the AT module is low current at less than 5 Amps, but the usually less power switching the better.
You omitted the best of all worlds option! Run the MFD yellow wire through a simple SPST (on-off) switch to connect to the yellow wire of the accessory item. If the switch is off, you've forced the accessory to NEVER turn on, useful any time you don't intend to use the accessory. If you flip that switch ON, you allow the MFD to turn on (or off) the accessory.
Thanks for another way to control the module. I tried to limit the video to 5 ways for controlling the module and i used methods that I had installed in multiple client boat configurations.
Thanks for watching the video.
I'm installing the active target 2 on my pontoon. It's paired to an elite 9.
I have it working but if I change the screen to sonar, and then go back to active target it says no source. If I turn the elite off and power it back up the active target works.
Hi Gary, I am installing AT1 in my boat. I currently have two 9" Lowrance's (one at bow and one at console). My plan is to run those units and the AT all off its own battery. So far I have ran 10AWG from the battery in the rear to the console area where I have setup a toggle switch to control the power on/off. I have mounted the AT box and ran the power cord to the console where switch is. From the bow of the boat I ran positive, negative, and a wire that I connected to the units yellow wire all ran to the console as well and those wires are all 12AWG. I have attached the 5amp fuses that came with each unit and the AT1. My plan from there would be to connect the yellow wire from AT to the wire I ran from the front console (I want to control on off of box with that console). And then would be connect three wires (two consoles and AT) together to the switch and then the main power from battery to the switch.
Do you see any issues with this setup? Thank you!
I normally run 8 AWG for AT modules. What you need to do is to check for the voltage drop at end of the power wire to make sure that it has minimal drop. The 9s do not pull as much power (see the video on running the units in your house -- I have tables in the there that will give the current draw for the units). I don't know the size of your boat but I've run 8 AWG to the console and then 10 AWG to the bow on a 21 foot boat with 4 12s, no AT module. This worked well. However, the AT module gets better images with larger power wiring. And that power wiring gets run directly to the battery in the stern (with a breaker).
I would also put a breaker the battery compartment between the battery and the power wires.
@@garrywoodruff960 Thanks for the reply, I had some 10 AWG and 12 AWG on hand that is why I originally was going to go that route. It is going on a 17.5 ft champion. The 10 awg from the battery to console is about 10ft long hooked straight to a switch. I then have the two 9s and the AT all connected together into the switch. The 12 awg to front 9 is also about 10 ft long. If you think going to 8 awg is better option I will do that.
What is the need for a breaker at battery compartment if I have everything on a switch? And what amp/breaker would you recommend.
Thanks
Due to the minimal voltage drop of the 8 AWG, I would use that for your power wiring. You'll get less than 0.1 voltage drop from your battery to the bow. Another advantage is that if you decide to go with larger units in the future then your boat wiring is ready for them.
Sorry for the delay, still recovering.
Thanks, Gary. I'm installing an HDS live 9 and an Active Target system later this week. I'm running a separate lithium battery just for them (I may also add a few lights inside the boat to this battery for night fishing.) I was going to run reds and blacks for both units straight to the battery, but I was wanting to tie the two yellow wires together thru a switch. That way the A.T. could only be powered up if the HDS is turned on, but I could also flip the switch off when I'm using the HDS but not using the AT. That make sense? And do you think it would work? I wasn't sure if that wake up signal from the HDS was a constant voltage, or a temporary signal.
Hi Scott, that sounds like it would work. Don't forget the fuses. The yellow wire on the HDS unit is constant once it is powered up, so a switch would work on the line. I would put the lights on a separate battery since they may generate electrical noise on the power lines. I usually put anything that is not electronics specific on another battery, usually the starting battery. That would include lights, live pole mounts, satellite receivers, stereos, etc.
Let me know if you have any more questions or issues. Good luck with the new equipment, once you get to use it then you'll really enjoy it.
Thank you, sir. Yep... Have all my fuses ready to go. I'll consider running a new wire to the back for those lights. I usually run everything back to the starting battery, but I was telling myself that if I am using these specific lights, that I had a very low expectancy of using my electronics at the same time. Kind of an either/or situation. Do you happen to have a fuse size you would recommend for these particular units ( active target, HDS live 9, & yellow circuit if needed.)
I typically use a 30 Amp breaker for most installations. I did use a 40 Amp breaker for the Caymas install with 5 units, 2 Active Targets, and 2 network switches. The AT fuse is 3 Amps, The Live 9 is also 3 Amps. I use a 1 Amp fuse for the yellow wires.
Great video! Currently all my electronics run from the boat’s cranking battery. After fishing for 4-6 hours the battery is done and the big motor will not start. I have very little room for another big battery and was thinking I would run the active target off an 8 oh Milwaukee battery since that’s what I use the most. What method would you use?
Thank you! Some people do use a smaller battery like the Milwaukee but they only have a limited usage time. The Active Target module draws around 1.5 amps maximum, so your 8 amp battery would last a little over 5 hours. So you would need at least two of them get a day out of them. Or get one of the smaller lithiums, say 20 or 30 AmpHr instead (that would give you 20 hours).
Another option is one that I have many of my customers utilize, and that is to run an X2 (size 31M) or similar starting battery (I think Cabela's/BassPro has a similar one). It is basically two batteries in one, one for starting and the other for deep cycle type usage such as needed by the electronics. Another option is an Ionic 125 AmpHr lithium. MillerTech also has a 180 AmpHr lithium as well. The lithium option is only good if your motor is rated for lithiums.
@@garrywoodruff960 do you recommend any 20-30 amp/hr batteries?
I normally use Ionic batteries. This one 30 amp/hr: www.bassfishinelectronics.com/collections/ionic-lithium-batteries/products/ionic-12-volt-30ah-deep-cycle-lithium-battery
Hi Garry.. Good tutorial.. In method 2 when connecting yellow to yellow so the Active Target only wakes up when the fish finder is turn on, am I still connecting the red power from the Active Target to my power source? It appears once I connect the Active Target to power it is causing a constant drain without an on/off switch? Thank you.
Hi, yes, in method 2, the Active Target will be turned on when the unit is powered up. And yes, you need to connect both the red and black wires to a power source, preferably the same as the one powering the unit.
And thank you!
Hey Gary...thanks for the video(s) and sharing your knowledge...I just purchased a 2012 Ranger Z520 Commanche...it was rigged with an HDS Carbon 12 and (2) HDS Live 9s on the bow, Active Target1, LiveScanner. 2 HDS Live 12s, SonicHub, and XM weather module at the console. There is a NMEA backbone (5 drops at console and 4 drops at bow)...I'm upgrading to AT2.
Currently 8 gauge duplex wire from battery to units at box and separate run to console. Wiring in box locations is rat's nest. Oh, lead acid cranking battery with all boat accessories and 30 amp breaker...size 31 AGM battery for electronics (no breaker)...also Power Poles are connected to the cranking battery (actually to the breaker)...
Should I install separate breaker for 'house/electronics' battery?
Should I install a master switch to turn off the batteries?
Was thinking of installing a 6 circuit fuse block under dash (for those electronics), another 6 circuit block installed in starboard storage/rod locker, along with AT2 module and move bow NMEA in this locker also.
If I run wire from this block to connect to bow electronics (approx 8'), what gauge wire should I use?
If this wire is larger than the units power wires, how to make that connection i.e. 12 gauge to 18 gauge?
Can I eliminate the inline fuses or leave them?
Got any tricks for clearing a channel in the foam along that side to fish these wires through...the conduit tube running in the gunnel is already pretty tight...
I completely understand if you don't have time or the inclination to provide this information. Or if it would be simpler to talk by phone, would love to do that as well.
Thanks in advance, either way Gary...
Hi, you should have a separate 8 awg run to the bow as well. Yes, you should put a 30 Amp breaker and a cutoff switch at the electronics battery. Then the positive (should be red) on the electronics wires get connected to the output side of the breaker. And also put a master cutoff switch on your starting battery as well. There is a company that sells corner brackets for cutoff switches for about $20 each. (I don't recall their name off hand, I would have to look it up when I get home)
The XM4 and SonicHub should be powered from the starting battery. I also power the LiveScanner from the starting battery.
And yes, put a fuse block at the bow and the console. Connect the 8 awg from the electronics battery to the terminals on the fuse block. They will be #10 ring terminals. Then put #8 ring terminals on the power leads for each unit and AT module. Once you have the fuse blocks in place, you can remove the inline fuses as the units will be fused from the fuse block just be sure to use the proper fuse size. Look at the video that I did on preparing a power cord, it has all the details.
It is hard in a Ranger to clear out the foam. If you already have the AT1 module in place, then put the AT2 module there. The only wire that you should have to run to bow would be the power wire (8 awg). Pull that wire before you put the connectors on as it will be much easier to get through the rigging tube. I have had to remove the starboard running light to get cables through the tube. Sometimes the tube is crushed behind the light. I used a screwdriver to get the crush out so that the wire will go through. If you poke a hole in the tube then use silicone sealant to patch it.
Let me know if you have more questions.
@@garrywoodruff960 Wow...thank you very much for all this...but of course I do have a follow up question or two...
If I put the fuse block in the starboard locker, the power cables from the bow units are not long enough to reach. So I will need to run wire from the fuse block to the box to connect the units. Should I use the same size wire that is on the units power cord (I think Lowrance has 18 or 16 gauge wire), or should I run larger wire and connect to the units? The run will be approx 10' (accounting for the bends and turns).
If running larger wire, how much larger would you suggest? What type of connector should I use for this larger to smaller wire?
Are you suggesting a separate cut off switch for each battery, or one switch to be a master cut off for both batteries?
I apologize for my ignorance...because, when it comes to electrical, I truly am just that, ignorant.
Thanks again Gary
It would be better to put a fuse block in the bow as well. That will let you use the Lowrance power cables (which are 18 awg) without modification. I have used a 10 AWG duplex wire when I had 2 12" units on the bow when I ran 8 AWG to console, then the 10 AWG from the console to the bow fuse panel. But it is preferred to run 8 AWG direct from the electronics breaker to the bow fuse block. You should really try to mount a fuse block in the bow somewhere. There is plenty of room on a Z520 to do so. You need to fuse the units as close as possible to the units. I have used 3m double sided tape (permanent type to mount things in the bow with good success. There are 3m prep pads that will increase the adhesion that I use as well.
You need to keep the electronics battery circuits separate from your starting battery circuits, so you should have 2 cutoff switches. One will be for the boat power (starting battery) and the other for the electronics power.
@@garrywoodruff960 Thanks again...My only issue is accessibility. If I install the fuse block 'in' the bow...and need to access that fuse block, I will have to basically uninstall the mounts for my units and then the bow dash panel. Of course, as it was initially, all the inline fuses were 'in' the bow, so no real difference, I guess. All 3 units power cables (red and black respectively) were twisted together and crimped in a butt connector, connected to the 8 gauge from the battery. Is this an acceptable practice?
Last question...the original AT1 was connected to the bow accessory switch and powered through the cranking battery. If I understand your way #5 video explanation, to power the AT2 with the electronics battery and still be on that switch, I will need to install the SSR, correct? Can I also use the same switch for the LiveScanner? If so, can you explain that connection, since it will be powered by the cranking battery?
I have installed quite a few fuse blocks in the bow without issues as the fuses rarely blow. Make sure that you use the recommended size fuse. And yes, disassembly of the bow is a downside to mounting fuses or fuse blocks in the bow. The new mounts from Bass Boat Technologies alleviates taking the bow completely apart. They are worth checking out.
I do not like to crimp multiple wires together in one crimp connector side. I have seen too many fail. It is preferable to either use a bus bar to connect the wires together (the Vexus video showed the use of a compact bus bar) If you have 3 wires to connect together, they make 3 way connectors for that purpose. (the sync video shows that example).
And yes, if you use the ACC switch on your boat, use a SSR to switch the yellow wire to the AT2 module. You should connect the LiveScanner power to the boat power using the power block in the bow. The LiveScanner has an on/off switch on it so there is no need to switch its power. The power line for the LiveScanner has a builtin fuse in the positive wire. Refer to the boat wiring diagram under the rear deck lid. It will give the wire color for the bow ACC switch as well as call out the power block on the bow.
Hi and thanks for making video. I have HDS Carbon 9 on kayak. Can I connect red to red: black to black and yellow to yellow on AT and HDS to one battery? I understand AT will be on anytime unit is on. Both connected to one battery.
Yes you can. But I would connect the red and black wires directly to the battery for each unit. And I would also have a switch on the red wire to disconnect the units (HDS, AT module) from the battery when not in use. The AT module will have a slight current draw and may drain your battery down after time. And don't forget to put a fuse on the red wire. It's a 5A for the AT module and I think a 3A for the HDS 9.
And thank you for watching the video. And thanks for the comment too!
Thanks for quick reply; I have amped 32 aph battery with clip terminals. Not sure how to connect 2 accessories. Can I run one wire to battery and split some how? Thanks for working with me.
You're welcome. I would probably run a red wire to the positive on the battery to a breaker (10 Amp should be sufficient), then from the OUT side of the breaker connect both devices (AT, HDS) with inline fuses. Then you can use the breaker also as a cutoff switch. Or put a switch in between the battery and breaker as the cutoff switch since you can extend the life of the breaker but not using it as a switch. The connect both grounds from the units to the battery.
I assume that the battery using spade style slide on connectors. If so then I would get a 2 to 1 one style connector for the ground wires. In a larger installation I would use either a buss bar or a fuse block, but you only have 2 devices connected, so the simpler and more compact the better. I think that I showed a 2 to 1 style connect in the video on using a switch for controlling the AT module.
And you'll want to seal everything up with marine grade heat shrink.
Hi Garry, if yellow and red wires are connected to the battery together as you described in the first method does it drain the battery because the unit is always on? Thank you in advance!
Yes it does. That's why you should have a cutoff switch on the battery or a least switch the module.
Thanks for watching.
@@garrywoodruff960 Thank you!
what is the specific brand or name of the toggle switch to connect the yellow wire to?
This is one of the switches that I have used for the yellow wire control.
www.amazon.com/dp/B0BD3HSY9V/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0BD3HSY9V&pd_rd_w=9P8mW&content-id=amzn1.sym.f734d1a2-0bf9-4a26-ad34-2e1b969a5a75&pf_rd_p=f734d1a2-0bf9-4a26-ad34-2e1b969a5a75&pf_rd_r=WP21TVFSB4TM6CK5FD7G&pd_rd_wg=C32OL&pd_rd_r=58c2e9c0-31fb-4648-b154-d458e38fbb91&s=industrial&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw
This is a two position toggle switch that also includes 2 USB ports and a voltage gauge. However, you can use one similar to the following if you only need to switch one AT module. The key is that it is waterproof, single pole single throw, and not a momentary type switch. I do prefer ones with a LED indicator, it lets me know quickly if the module is turned on.
www.amazon.com/mxuteuk-Waterproof-Marine-Rocker-RK1-06N-BU/dp/B07VS5XV7J/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1SC6HL6RXHTDK&keywords=blue+seas+marine+spst+toggle+switch&qid=1684779260&s=industrial&sprefix=blue+seas+marine+spst+toggle+switch%2Cindustrial%2C106&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFFMEs4WVhCWU4zUkEmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwOTkyMjgyWDVFU0Q3OVo1Q1QwJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MTA3MDIzSkowTFFVOUs4MkhDJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Garry
Can I hire you for a simple job or two? My friend and I have Hobie kayaks that need some minor electrical tune ups- much like what you discuss here. His just needs a battery hook up and my installer failed to hook up the yellow wire on my boat. I would love to have you look both boats over. We live in Grand Rapids, Mi but could plan a trip your way if you're available. Where exactly are you located?
That sounds like it would be a good job to work on and make some good videos as well. I am in southern New Hampshire, so that would be quite a drive for you. On the plus side, you could hit Champlain, Ontario, St Lawrence, and Erie on the way back.
If you want to discuss this further contact on my Facebook page.
Let me know. Garry.
Can I run power from my fuse block to one side of the switch then connect the red and yellow from active target 2 black box to the other side of the switch? When I go yellow from at2 to yellow on the fs9 power it doesn’t wake up the box. I could only get at2 to turn on when with the red and yellow together connected to the fuse block but then the power stays on even when the fs9s are off.
Yes, you can run the red and yellow through a switch to the fuse block. Just make sure that the switch is waterproof and that it can handle at least 5 Amps. It should be a NO SPST or normally open single pole single throw type switch. I'll have to check to see why the FS9 yellow wire didn't wake up the AT module. If I find the reason then I'll post a reply here for you.
Thank you
Ok I am running power to a fuse type box. So how do I wire from the fuse box to both the sonar unit and to power the Active Target module???
I use ring terminals to attach to the power wires from the units and modules. If you look at some of the other videos you can see how I connect the fuse block.
@garrywoodruff960 OK I am using just one unit a fs 9 my question is dealing with how to connect the yellow wire? Does the yellow wire from the sonar unit connect strait to the AT 2 yellow wire? It looks like they are connected but not thru the fuse block is that correct?
Hi, yes you connect the yellow wires directly together. I usually use a 18-22 size butt connect (Anchor marine heat shrink type).
Sorry about the delay, I am still recovering and have good days and bad days. Fortunately the bad days are aren't so bad. Hopefully I'll be able to start making videos soon.
@@garrywoodruff960 Thanks
With option 2 what do you do with the black and red from the active target ?
You need to connect the red and black to your power supply (battery). You should have the red wire on a switch to minimize battery drain when you are note using the AT module. And don't forget to put a fuse on the red wire. It's a 5A for the AT module.