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The Halo radar series that are supported by the Elite FS require the use of the Yellow wire to turn it on or off. So the radar dome acts the same as the Active Target module in terms of the yellow wire controlling the power to the dome/module. So yes the wiring is as I showed in the video. Using the switch you would wire it up to connect the Yellow wire from the power cord on the dome to the switch. Then connect to other terminal on the switch to a yellow wire through a 1 Amp fuse to your battery. And connect the red (through a fuse) and yellow wires on the power cord for the dome to the battery. Thanks for watching the video! Garry

@ thank you sir. I appreciate it and I did subscribe to your channel because a lot of things that you have done has helped me out on this boat venture thank you, sir. I appreciate you.

You are very welcome. And I appreciate you subscribing. Good luck with the boat. If you have any questions feel free to post a comment. Or if you have a topic that you would like covered in a video, please let me know. Thanks again, Garry.

@ good afternoon Gary ok I just put on a switch with a light I have yellow and a power wire and ground the light stays on on the switch on or off ?Any input Also I was looking at the wires coming from the Lowrance elite FS9 it has a yellow wire not being used can I just put the two yellows together and the dome will work from that / with out the switch and will some turn off when not using Thanks again Ps Your page is the only one out there with this good information

I usually wire it so that the light is turned on when the switch is on. Check the wiring diagram on the switch, it should show a power lead, switched lead, and a ground. The power lead goes to the fuse and then the battery or fuse block. The switched lead goes to the yellow wire on the power cable. And the ground goes to the fuse block or battery ground. Yes, you can hook the yellow from the Elite to the dome yellow wire. And you can put the switch between the two. That was the dome will only turn on when the Elite is powered and the switch is turned to the on position. I'm not sure how much current that the wakeup wire can handle to be able to turn on the switch LED if it has one. So to be safe, don't connect the switch ground and have a way to mark the ON position on the switch so it is obvious. I do try to have videos that fill in the gaps from other channels. I want you to be able to learn how and why you are doing something so when things go wrong or are different you know how to adapt to the situation. Thanks, Garry

It depends on the switch. The one that I show in the thumbnail would NOT have the 3rd terminal connected. It does not have an indicator light or LED to let you know that it is switched on. The switch is a single pole single throw or SPST switch. If your switch has an indicator on it then you will need a ground connection so the light is illuminated when you turn on the switch. I used that type of switch on the Skeeter Elite FS/Active Target installation. That switch also is a SPST switch. This is type of switch that I used for that installation: amzn.to/3C6btua If your switch has extra lugs on it and no indicator then do NOT connect ground as you may short out the wiring or blow a fuse if it is wired incorrectly. And thank for watching the video. And please subscribe if you haven't yet. Thank you.

@@garrywoodruff960 Thanks Garry. Good work!

You're welcome.

Thank you. I use Ancor marine grade heat shrink terminals. (see links below) For the 8 AWG -- you will need a #10 8 ring terminal (it is pink in color). For the HDS power cord -- you will need a #8 18-22 ring terminal (also pink in color) For the AT power cord -- you will need a #8 14-16 ring terminal (blue in color) I use a 14-16 Butt connector (blue) to connect the Yellow on the AT cord to the HDS cord. You will need to strip the HDS yellow back double length then fold it in half, twist it, then insert it into the Butt connector. Here are links for terminals. Ancor Heat Shrink Ring Terminals: amzn.to/4gk5znN Ancor Butt Connector Kit: amzn.to/41DLCE5

@ Thank you very much!!!

You're welcome. Let me know if you have any more questions.

Wow! Thank you very much. If I hear of anyone out there that I would trust, I will let you know. Thanks for the compliment and being a subscriber! Garry

Thank you! I've helped so many people with this problem over the years. I hope that is clears up your questions. If not, let me know. And thanks for viewing and subscribing!

I'm not sure what you meant by your comment?

@garrywoodruff960 sorry that was accident I was responding to another person, sorry for the confusion

No problem. I was trying to figure out what you meant and coming with a lot of crazy things. Anyway, thanks for watching the video.

Thank you. I hope that it will help when you add the AT2. Let me know how it works out.

Thank you. I'm glad that you like the videos and find them useful. I believe that it will work once you have the transducer plugged in. My indoor usage testing only had the unit connected. The touch would work if I had a cable attached. In fact, I am working on a very similar setup to what you are describing. My buddy wants a portable live sonar with a HDS Pro to take on trips to use on a small boat. I'm going to be mocking it up in a couple of weeks. I will let you know how it works. Maybe I can do a quick test tomorrow with the new Pro unit that I have on my table and a small battery to see if what I can do to make it work.

@ thanks gary for the response. i bought it for a small boat setup. I will be looking forwards to a video if u do one. thanks

Thank you! I'm getting there. I'm probably too impatient.

Thank you. I am glad that you found it useful. I normally run 16 AWG wire size for the Yellow wire. There is very little current on the circuit. On your Z520R, the wire length will be around 10-12 feet from the day box to the bow unit allowing for some slack in the wire. I would still run 8 AWG for the Active Target 2 module power (red and black wires) with a fuse. This will minimize voltage drops to it. And yes, it is overkill, but you will be ready for upgrading and/or adding additional modules in the future.

@ Thank you very much

You're welcome!

You're welcome. I hope that the video helped you out. I tried to put a lot of the help that I've given to people into that video so more people can get some benefit from it. Thank you for watching!

The sync capability only works between the Active Target 2 module and the Pro unit (also S3100 module). The Live unit will see whatever image is produced on the AT2 module. If the Pro unit has a connected transducer then you will a better image on the AT2 module, and therefore on the Live on the bow. But if the Live has a connected transducer then you will still see the interference between the Live and AT2 module coming from the Live's transducer. If you stop the Sonar on the Live and leave the Sonar running on the Pro then you will see the benefit of syncing. So, connect the Yellow on the Pro to the Blue on the AT2 module. And turn on the sync feature in the Pro. On the Live, you do not need to connect the yellow wire UNLESS you are using the Live to turn on the AT2 module. In that case, connect the Yellow from the Live to the Yellow on the AT2 module. Let me know if that makes sense to you. Garry

@@garrywoodruff960 You are the best! Thank you.

You're welcome. Let me know how it works out for you!

Thanks. that video was more about the setup. There are 3 other videos that look at the details better. I found that it was hard to see the details just using a camera for recording the screen. So I used the sonar logging capability in the 2nd and 3rd ones. And I am now using screen mirroring to log to a tablet to get an even better image.

@ which one that I can see fish reveal fish on side scan?

The following two videos show the sidescan. But the real purpose of the videos is to compare the sidescan differences. If the weather ever breaks up here then my plans are to video using the sidescan fish reveal to find fish. The initial video will be for walleye with others planned for perch (yellow) and smallmouth. This is perhaps more what you are looking for. And it will certainly be a better showing of the fish reveal on sidescan capability. This video only uses cameras to record the screens. ua-cam.com/video/d7peT315GD0/v-deo.html This video uses a mix of cameras and sonar logs to show the images. The sonar logs do not show the fish reveal capability. ua-cam.com/video/8qJbeN3u9o8/v-deo.html Again, I didn't try to locate fish using the sidescan in these videos. The plan all along has been to do a series of videos showing the capabilities but sickness and injuries, and now freezing weather, have greatly prolonged those recordings.

Hi, have you updated both the Pro and the AT2? And have you turned on Ping Sync on the Pro? It's under Settings/System. I've never seen the sonar just stop. The only exception is that after an update, the Sonar is stopped on the Pro. And the sidescan and downscan will also be stopped. They have to be "unstopped" manually via the More Options on the Menu. Also, if you unstop either down or side then it will unstop the other one as well. And do you have the Yellow wire activated on the AT2 module (switch, or hard wired)? Let me know. I'd like to get you up and running. And thanks for watching the video.

@garrywoodruff960 Sonar and AT2 are updated to the latest version. The yellow wire is hardwired. Ping sync doesn't change anything, and the sonar image freezes. When I disconnect the wires, everything works fine. However, I'm not sure how downscan and sidescan work with the wires connected. I'll check if the sonar stops or not. Thank you for such a quick response

Does the Active Target image still work when the sync (blue) wire is connected? Or is only the Sonar on the Pro that stops? What transducer is connected to the Pro? And which black connector is it connected to? This is odd. I have run both AI 3-in-1 and AI 3-in1- HD synced up to the AT2 (and a S3100) module on multiple installations with no issues. It sounds like the Pro is waiting for a sync signal from the AT2 module, which would explain the freeze on the Pro. Let me know what happens with the down/side scan. It sounds like you have everything hooked correctly. If so then I would reset the sonar variables and see if that fixes the issue. I'm hoping that it is not a hardware problem. Do you have another Pro unit to test with? You're welcome on the response, I really want to know why it doesn't work and to get it working for you.

@@garrywoodruff960 The transducer is an HD 3in1. After connecting the wires, the pro transducer works normally, but AT2 stops functioning. I have tested all possible settings, but none of them work-AT2 remains stationary. As soon as the wires are disconnected, AT2 starts working normally again.

Make sure that you do not have the AT2 feature turned on in the Settings/System/Advanced. That feature is only for 2 AT2 modules working both in Scout mode. If it was ON then do a retest. If the problem is still happening then do a Global variable reset under Settings/System/Restore defaults. IF nothing then turn OFF the AT feature, restart your unit, and then turn it back ON. If all of those steps fail then do you happen to have a second unit available that it also networked to the AT2 module? That would help to isolate the problem to the module or the unit. I hope that we can get this working for you. The sync feature really cleans up the AT picture on the screen. And the same sync works very well with the S3100 module.

Thank you. It does not matter what terminal on the switch that you connect the battery cable to. As I showed in the video, orient the switch in the desired ON/OFF position. If you are mounting in bow direction corner as I did on mine, the make sure that you have the battery cable come out the back so it is out of the way. And have the breaker cable come out of the side (starboard side for my boat). That will keep the wires out of the way. Just make sure that the wires are no crossed on the switch. There is a small piece of plastic where the terminals are located, make sure the wires on different sides. As I mentioned, I put Amazon affiliate links in the description to help you out. And there is a link to the Rocket City mount as well. They have different brands too. Let me know if you have any other questions. And thank you for watching the video. I appreciate it.

Well, if you look at line loss and load, factoring in wire run length and considering this is a critical load type circuit then a bow run does need 8 AWG. This is true as the batteries are degraded during the day. And the AT module is usually not the only load on the line. Most installations that I do have 2 12" units and 1 AT module at the bow. So given that the time to run a cable and terminate are the same for different sizes, and many people will upgrade later, it only makes sense to run that size from the beginning. While your opinion is different than mine on wire size, my customers have never complained about power issues on the installations. And the reason that I don't use those brands is that the ones that I have used have a flat back. They are meant to be installed on a flat surface, however in the fiberglass boats are anything but flat inside the battery area. And if you secure them then one or more corners will break off. And I have seen zero failures of the knockoff.

@@garrywoodruff960 To be clear, I know how to calculate voltage drop, and I specifically said no one really needs 8AWG wire to power an AT module; nothing was said about powering the AT module plus two 12” units off of the same pair of wires. In a video titled “Active Target Power Wiring”, you say: “Alright, let’s talk about power for this Active Target module . . .” “. . . the solution I use is 8 gauge Ancor marine grade wire . . .

Well, from your comment I did not know your knowledge level. Most people that I deal with have no clue about electrical issues and solutions, much less how to install wiring to be reliable and worry free. And I did state that's what I use, which is correct. I've only done one Livescope install where I used 10 AWG instead of 8 and in that installation the boat had a centrally located battery, 2 units and the GLS10 module. And in that installation (a Lund), each one had a dedicated power line. All other installations have used the 8 AWG wiring. Again, the reasoning is that when I rig a boat, power lines share multiple loads as in at least one or more unit(s). It would be a disservice to my customers to run minimum wire gauge to the module and units. Most of them start off with modest installation and then they come back to upgrade either the screen size (higher load) or add additional units. I can then easily and with less cost add in their upgrade. If I did the minimum during the initial install then the power wiring would have to be upgraded and they would be paying for it twice. And that's not a good way to do business. I believe in rigging the boat one time for the customer, allowing for changes and modifications. And if they have a very tight budget, I will adjust my rates to do the work properly and not cut corners on components or quality. Long term, that creates better robust installations and happy customers. To do anything less to me is just not how I do things. You may disagree and that's your option, but the video shows how "I" do the installation. I have my engineering and practical reasons for the methods and components that I use. Obviously you do as well.

You're welcome. Great products.

Hi, there is some play in the Livescanner shaft for the breakaway capability. So that is normal. But on my unit the transducer stays lined up with the arrow. Can you manually rotate the shaft and feel a click? It kind of sounds like yours is not locking in place. I wonder if it is missing a tooth in the gear head. I did notice that the shaft diameter is a little smaller so I had to use the shim pads to get the transducer to stay in place on the shaft.

Also, check to make sure that that allen screws are tight on the coupler. Check all of them.

You're welcome. Thanks for watching!

No, do not switch the ground. It will cause issues and potential hazards. For example you may have a bilge pump that is connected to the battery and if it shorts out then you could have a live circuit in your boat. I only switch the positive. That way the battery power if fully disconnected from the rest of the boat. There should be some place that you can add the switch on the positive terminals. You might need a longer wire. And thanks for the question and watching the video. Garry

@@garrywoodruff960 Thanks Gary, your answer makes complete sense. Much appreciated.

You're welcome. Let me know how it turns out.

You're welcome. Easier to control with everything on one boat. Thanks for watching. I hope they help. I also did one comparing Downscan too.

That's true. And others have noticed as well. And why I did an updated version using 2 transducers on my boat. See this video: ua-cam.com/video/8qJbeN3u9o8/v-deo.html Thanks for watching.

Hi, it might be possible but you would have to overcome issues with running the connectors through the pole and you would still have the coil wrap somewhere on the run. Without some means of cable tension release (coil, etc) the transducer cable would eventually fail. I'll be working on the boat again in February to add a stern mounted Active Target. I will look at the pole and how internal cable routing would work. (Sorry hard to type with this bandage on my hand). The Livescanner has a breakaway system so that the pole disconnects from the drive during an impact. So that would need to be taken into account. When I talk with Livescanner next, I will make sure to ask about it. It would help a bit having an internal cable routing, much like the Ghost has for the transducer cable. That's a good idea. Thanks for suggesting it. And thank you for watching the video!

Hi, yes I'd change it. You are lucky that you got the 10 years out it. The one in my 2006 only last 6 years. I was at Ontario and fortunately I had a spare in the truck. I just added Amazon links in the description of the ones that I use. I put 30, 50, and 60 Amp ones in there. I have a 50 for my Ghost. Check to make sure that you get the correct size. You may also have to change the terminals, but I think that the old ones will be close to the ones on the breaker. I didn't write it down when I changed out that failed one on the intercoastal Ranger. And you're welcome. I'm glad that you liked it. I really appreciate you watching the videos. I am going to do one on making a battery cable next while I'm waiting for my hand to heal (trigger finger operation today) and the weather to break.

No, it will work just fine. For my setup, I run a 12 Amp power supply and use it for 1 or 2 units, NMEA bus, and wireless hub. Thanks for watching the video. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Yes you would. All of the transducer processing is done in the S3100 module. You could also add a Pro unit and then share the output to your Live unit. But if you want the Fish Reveal on sidescan, you'll need the S3100 module.

No, I am using a Livescanner. It is a sync-ready version that I will be upgrading when the sync module comes out. I haven't installed a Live foot yet, but I have installed other brands. They all have their pluses and minuses. On the boat in the video, that is a DD26 Live foot. The boat is a Vexus and came with it. I had just installed the S3100 and AI 3-in-1 HD FishReveal on it and we were testing it out. Thanks for watching the video and that's a good eye for detail!

I normally use 8 AWG marine gauge duplex wire for power cables to the console and bow. They are 2 separate runs, each one with a fuse block at the destination. On this boat, the owner only wanted me to add the Active Target 2 module, so I ran 8 AWG to power the AT2 module and NEP-2 network hub. The 2 Lowrance Elite FS units were powered by 10 AWG duplex to the console fuse block. And then we have plans to redo all of the electronics wiring next year. This is the wire that I use: amzn.to/3VwaTwd -- that is an Amazon affiliate link, so if you purchase the wire I may get a commission. And thanks for watching the video.

Hi, I usually run 8 AWG marine grade wire. This allows for future additions without having to an impact on voltage level. I have run 10 AWG in the past before the live systems or running more than 2 units on the boat. But that is limited to short runs less than 10 feet. This is the wire that I run: amzn.to/3OBxp2J And thanks for viewing the video!

Hi Mark, thank you. I try to make helpful videos. A lot of the videos address problems that I have helped many customers with and I want to share the knowledge. The power ground on the AT module should be grounded to the same battery that is used for the switch. Otherwise the wakeup wire will not work as expected. So if the AT module is powered by the lithium battery then the module and switch ground are connected to the lithium ground. I am assuming that you have a dedicated lithium battery for your electronics. There is also a case ground on the AT module as well. If you are in freshwater then connect the case ground (also called bonding wire) to the lithium battery. If you have a saltwater boat that has a ground system attached to an anode then attach the case ground to the ground system. That will do 2 things. First, it will help to prevent corrosion on the transducer. And second, it will help to clean up the image on your screen by eliminating some electrical noise. I appreciate you watching the videos. Garry

@@garrywoodruff960 Very thorough answer. Thank you. I was referring to the module case ground (bonding wire), and you answered very precisely. Good deal!

You're welcome. That's my engineering background coming through.

You will need to turn on the Active Target 2 features. You can access them in Settings -> System -> Advanced -> Features then look for the AT2 features and enable it. You will need to make sure that the Blue (sync) wire for both AT2 modules and the Yellow wire on Pro units are all connected together. For the network, you can connect the AT2 modules to any unit on the network but I would use a NEP-2 to connect everything. Both AT2 modules, the Pro bow unit, and the console unit(s) should be connected to it. The NEP-2 module will have the same power cord as the AT2, so make sure that you label it. And it also requires the use of the Yellow wakeup wire as well to turn it on. I usually have the NEP-2 module turn on when the electronics power is enabled. And I have the AT2 modules on separate switches to control each one separately (like I did on the Caymas build). And on the bow Pro, enable the Ping Sync under Power Control on the System Settings panel. Let me know how it all works out and if you have more questions. It sounds like you will have a really nice setup.

OMG!! Thanks for the tip on Accessing this feature. I had no idea of it. I have 5 graph units on my boat. Also all my units is all Ethernet connected and NEMA 2000 all connected together. Do I still need that NEP-2?

You're welcome. I would definitely use the NEP-2. While it only has 5 ports, you can connect 5 devices and then daisy chain the rest. You have 7 network devices - 5 units and 2 AT modules. If you have the S3100 then it would be 8. I like everything on the boat to be connected. That allows me to look at everything from different locations. For example, when I guide I use the trolling motor and Active Target while sitting at the console while clients are fishing.

No the 3-in-1 HD transducer with the Pro gives only downscan Fish Reveal. You need a separate 3-in-1 HD FR transducer to get sidescan Fish Reveal and it must be connected to a S3100 module for everything to work. I used this part number: 000-16060-001 on my boat and other installations. There is also a H/W version of the transducer for a wider coverage area. When I preordered my transducer the H/W version was not available and there was very little documentation on it, so I just ordered the normal coverage one. I believe the difference is in the coverage of the normal sonar at the high frequency setting with the H/W version giving a wider coverage area.

Thanks for the reply and the clarification

You're welcome!

I prefer Fluke but when I was looking for a replacement meter, Klein was my second choice only due to price. An equivalent Fluke was about 2-3 times higher in price. Klein is my first choice for pliers, strippers, and similar tools. Of course, I was replacing a meter that I bought at an Ace Hardware for about $10 years ago, it served me well but finally died and I bought that one to replace that Fluke that I won. Thanks for watching and being a subscriber! And good luck with the continued growth of your channel.

@@garrywoodruff960 Thank you! And you as well.

You bet.

As an hvac technician I love my fieldpiece meters. Prefered over the Klein and fluke

I'll have to check them out. Fluke was commonplace in the test equipment that I used to design and build.

I think I'm found my answer in the comments. Good stuff. Subscribing.

If you are wiring a unit (HDS, Elite, etc.) then you do not need to connect the Yellow wire. I simply cut the exposed wire off the end (where it is silver or tinned), then I fold it back on cable, and put a piece of heatshrink on it. If you are wiring in a touch unit then I would test it to make sure that the screen operates as normal. I expect that it would given that you connecting into your snowmobile and it is grounded to the ice. And thanks for watching the video!

That's great that you found what you needed. And thank you very much for subscribing!

I usually run into the opposite where the screen lags or is hard to touch. I haven't seen screens that sensitive. Have you cleaned the screens? And do you have a grounding strap that you could put on your wrist to try? (like the ones used for working on computers). Usually when I use my units, I only touch the screen where I need to. And if I want to drag something, then I will put a finger on the screen and move it. The same for zoom, except with two fingers. If you get your finger within the field proximity of the screen then it will detect your finger. Perhaps that it what is happening. And you did the recalibration which I was going to suggest. And the ground check is the next step. Except a bad ground usually causes the touch not to work at all. Let me know. I will also ask others on the pro staff about it.

Thanks Marc. I wish that I would have had some better clips for some of them.

@garrywoodruff960 I know what you mean...I often do as well with my videos. But I think we both have a lot more to do than make videos.

Yes that's for sure. I keep hurting my body which makes it hard to get out in boat. And just had one of my trigger fingers done. And I have so many on the water videos to do

You're welcome. I'm glad that you are learning from them. If you have any questions please let me know, perhaps I can make a video of it. Thank you for watching!

You're welcome. I hope that it helps. And thanks for watching!

Thank you! It seems to fill a void out there. Thanks for watching!

Thank you! I'm glad that you liked it. I appreciate you watching the videos.