![Garry Woodruff](/img/default-banner.jpg)
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Garry Woodruff
United States
Приєднався 24 січ 2015
This channel will share with you boat electronic installations and upgrades, fish finder instructions, how-to videos, bass fishing guide trips, and other topics as appropriate. An experienced service technician told me that he always learned something new when I stopped by the shop. It is my hope that you will learn something by watching my videos. The goal is to help you learn to install and operate your boat's electronics better.
My background is in electrical engineering and computer science, over the years I have built and tested many projects, both software and hardware. From my bass fishing tournament experiences I have developed robust installation techniques to insure that everything functions properly. I regularly rig boat electronics and provide customer and dealer support.
If you have a question, please ask or comment on a video. I'll try to get you an answer as soon as possible.
My background is in electrical engineering and computer science, over the years I have built and tested many projects, both software and hardware. From my bass fishing tournament experiences I have developed robust installation techniques to insure that everything functions properly. I regularly rig boat electronics and provide customer and dealer support.
If you have a question, please ask or comment on a video. I'll try to get you an answer as soon as possible.
4 Simple Details to Save Your Installation from Thousands in Repair Costs
We'll cover some simple steps to help prevent you from making major installation problems.
Remember: Do it right, do it once.
For your marine electronics needs visit:
BassFishin Electronics: www.bassfishinelectronics.com/
Remember: Do it right, do it once.
For your marine electronics needs visit:
BassFishin Electronics: www.bassfishinelectronics.com/
Переглядів: 140
Відео
5 Map Settings - Setting up Your Chart Like an Elite Series Pro
Переглядів 779Місяць тому
We'll cover 5 settings for your map page on your Lowrance unit. If you do these steps then you'll be set up like an Elite Series pro and get more effective usage out of your unit. Remember: Do it right, do it once. For your marine electronics needs visit: BassFishin Electronics: www.bassfishinelectronics.com/
Adding Active Target 2 to a Two Elite FS Boat
Переглядів 336Місяць тому
We're adding an Active Target 2 to a customer boat (Skeeter) that has two Lowrance Elite FS units. He wants them all connected together and to be able to see the Active Target on both screens. So we added a network expansion port and separate power wiring along with fixing a few existing boat issues. We use a separate lighted rocker switch to turn the Active Target module on and off. This is a ...
No Sonar - Fix Your Sonar Problems with These Simple Steps
Переглядів 448Місяць тому
We'll provide steps that you can follow to get your Sonar back. Even though this is primarily aimed at Lowrance HDS Pro and Live units, the techniques apply to other models as well. The goal is to get you back on the water with your Sonar working properly without having to call support or ask your buddies for help. Remember: Do it right, do it once. For your marine electronics needs visit: Bass...
How to Easily Run Your Touch Unit in the House
Переглядів 5496 місяців тому
Many people have been frustrated trying to get their touch unit to work in the house. Batteries will work but with a simple trick. However, for just a few dollars, you can get a power supply that is easy to hook up and get going. And the power supply is less than the battery and doesn't have to be recharged. You can then use your unit to do updates, learn how to use it, manage waypoints, or eve...
Transforming the Center Console on the Twin Vee into the Electronics Cabinet
Переглядів 2327 місяців тому
We worked with the owner and did a full electronics installation on a 24' Twin Vee saltwater boat. We added two Garmin GPSMAP 1243xsv, GMR 18 HD radar, Livescope XR, VHF 215 AIS radio, Fusion Apollo MS-WB675, and lots of the other items. Given this is a saltwater boat, we took a lot of extra steps not needed for our normal freshwater installations. This boat is now ready to go offshore and catc...
Twin Vee Center Console - Full Garmin Electronics Installation Part 1
Переглядів 8667 місяців тому
We worked with the owner and did a full electronics installation on a 24' Twin Vee saltwater boat. We added two Garmin GPSMAP 1243xsv, GMR 18 HD radar, Livescope XR, VHF 215 AIS radio, Fusion Apollo MS-WB675, and lots of the other items. Given this is a saltwater boat, we took a lot of extra steps not needed for our normal freshwater installations. This boat is now ready to go offshore and catc...
Pro Tip: Incorrect Heading Setting
Переглядів 6648 місяців тому
A customer was having issues with his console map always pointing the wrong direction when he was running. It turns out that his bow mounted Point-1 GPS antenna was getting inference from the trolling motor when it was in the stow position. I'll show you how to fix the problem. These settings apply to HDS and Elite FS units. Also, if you're curious what the background video is in the beginning,...
Watching the Elites use live sonar and figuring out how to find fish like them
Переглядів 1,9 тис.8 місяців тому
I got a chance to be a camera boat for 4 days at a recent Bassmaster Elite Series tournament on Lake Champlain. Being close to the action and watching how they were finding and then catching fish made me wonder a couple of things. First, they looked like ducks waddling around looking for stuff, in their case winning smallmouth, which I refer to as the "live waddle". And second, how could I repl...
Livescanner Quadscan Plus Operation
Переглядів 3779 місяців тому
Description: We take you through the features and remote control operation for the new Livescanner Quadscan Plus. This pole mount has advanced features to make your fishing experience using live sonar (Active Target, Livescope, Mega Live) easier and more effective. We were able to get in the water shots of the operation so that you can see what the Livescanner is doing. Fortunately the water cl...
Down Imaging - Lowrance Active Imaging 3-in-1 versus HD Transducers
Переглядів 4,3 тис.9 місяців тому
We did a side-by-side downscan comparison of the Lowrance Active Imaging 3-in-1 and the new HD transducer. To eliminate many variables, both transducers were mounted on the Ranger Z522D boat. Then both dual camera mounts and sonar recordings were used to obtain the down imaging data. Lowrance HDS Pro 12" units were used for recording. And the Reefmaster viewer was used to play back the log file...
Second Look at Lowrance Active Imaging 3-in-1 versus HD side imaging - Is it worth the upgrade?
Переглядів 5 тис.9 місяців тому
We wanted to redo the sidescan side-by-side comparison of the Lowrance Active Imaging 3-in-1 and the new HD transducer. To eliminate many variables, both transducers were mounted on the Ranger Z522D boat. Then both dual camera mounts and sonar recordings were used to obtain the side imaging data. Lowrance HDS Pro 12" units were used for recording. And the Reefmaster viewer was used to play back...
Working on the new HD vs 3-in-1 video.
Переглядів 2229 місяців тому
Working on the new HD vs 3-in-1 video.
Syncing Active Target 2 and HDS Pro Together To Clean Up The Noise
Переглядів 3,2 тис.10 місяців тому
Syncing Active Target 2 and HDS Pro Together To Clean Up The Noise
Control Your Active Target Module with a Switch (Way #3)
Переглядів 8 тис.10 місяців тому
Control Your Active Target Module with a Switch (Way #3)
Installing and Configuring the Lowrance Active Imaging 3-in-1 HD Fish Reveal Transducer/S3100 Module
Переглядів 5 тис.10 місяців тому
Installing and Configuring the Lowrance Active Imaging 3-in-1 HD Fish Reveal Transducer/S3100 Module
Lowrance Active Imaging 3-in-1 versus HD side imaging - Is it worth the upgrade?
Переглядів 13 тис.10 місяців тому
Lowrance Active Imaging 3-in-1 versus HD side imaging - Is it worth the upgrade?
Lowrance Sidescan Fish Reveal On the Water Settings and Operation
Переглядів 13 тис.11 місяців тому
Lowrance Sidescan Fish Reveal On the Water Settings and Operation
Lowrance Sidescan Fish Reveal and Active Target 2 Upgrade on Vexus VX21
Переглядів 4,9 тис.11 місяців тому
Lowrance Sidescan Fish Reveal and Active Target 2 Upgrade on Vexus VX21
Upgrading the LiveScanner Quad Scan with some new parts
Переглядів 1,2 тис.11 місяців тому
Upgrading the LiveScanner Quad Scan with some new parts
Finishing Up: Updating and configuring electronics units in a dual console/triple bow configuration
Переглядів 51711 місяців тому
Finishing Up: Updating and configuring electronics units in a dual console/triple bow configuration
Identifying and Fixing Bow Electronics Installation Problems - Transducers, Cables, and Wiring
Переглядів 1,2 тис.Рік тому
Identifying and Fixing Bow Electronics Installation Problems - Transducers, Cables, and Wiring
Lund Upgraded with Garmin Livescope on a Brew City Mount
Переглядів 5 тис.Рік тому
Lund Upgraded with Garmin Livescope on a Brew City Mount
Lund Impact 1875 Upgraded from trolling boat to fishing boat
Переглядів 734Рік тому
Lund Impact 1875 Upgraded from trolling boat to fishing boat
Preparing a new HDS Pro using Saved Settings and Waypoints
Переглядів 2,1 тис.Рік тому
Preparing a new HDS Pro using Saved Settings and Waypoints
Do this BEFORE selling your old electronics or boat
Переглядів 509Рік тому
Do this BEFORE selling your old electronics or boat
Active Target 2 Power Cable with the Sync Wire
Переглядів 3,6 тис.Рік тому
Active Target 2 Power Cable with the Sync Wire
5 Ways to Control Your Active Target Module
Переглядів 27 тис.Рік тому
5 Ways to Control Your Active Target Module
How I make connections for power cords when I install fishfinders.
Переглядів 10 тис.Рік тому
How I make connections for power cords when I install fishfinders.
Active Target Pole Mounting using Live Sweep
Переглядів 2,2 тис.Рік тому
Active Target Pole Mounting using Live Sweep
Well done sir
Thank you. And thanks for watching.
Really informative video!
Thanks. I tried to share why and how. I'd hate if someone smoked their boat when it could have easily been prevented.
Very similar......mhhhhh
Yes, very close for those conditions and ranges. I'm going to try to compare on different water bodies. And experiment with different depths and ranges.
I didn't think I would find this video. Thanks so much! Switching the yellow wire is exactly what I want to do. I am setting it up in a kayak but want to be sure I can turn it off when not in use. Keeps my from having to have a larger battery in the kayak.
You're welcome. I'm glad that you found the video useful. I just used this same technique in the Elite FS/Active Target 2 video. I installed one of the rocker switches that I showed in the video since it had a LED indicator to let the owner know that it was turned on. Weight savings in a kayak is very important. Let me know how it works out.
Gary can you connect an in hull transducer into the blue sonar port on a Carbon unit and also put an in hull transducer 9 pin into the S3100..? Will running botht cause interference on the 2D side on the head unit..? Or are the frequencies far enugh away as to not cause frequency interference..?
Hi, you can run both. You will get some interference from the two transducers. This usually starts about where the sonar cones intersect. For example on a boat with a bow transducer and an in-hull transducer, at about 18' for a 21' boat, you will start to get interference between the 2 transducers. That was showing up as large angled vertical lines on the sonar page. Running different frequencies and/or modes on the transducers will help to minimize the crosstalk. When I get my boat back home, I have a video planned on transducer noise. On my boat, I have 2 in-hull transducers and 2 external hull transducers mounted on my jackplate. They are connected to both my 3100 module and my Pro unit on the console. So I will easily be able to show the interference issues. And hopefully what you can do to mitigate the problem. Right now, because I am using the SYNC features in the S3100 module and HDS Pro, I do not see any interference in the transducers. If I turn off the SYNC feature on the Pro, I do see it with sidescan. I will spend more time looking at the various combinations when I do the video. (Hopefully in the next month.)
@@garrywoodruff960 Thank You Gary...! Look forward to the video
You're welcome. And I liked your latest drone video, I need to fly mine a lot more.
Great video Gary. I added the relief shading to my HDS 12, but I could not figure it out on my Ti2. Is there a setting or pallet for that?
Hi, unfortunately the Elite Ti2 does not support depth shading with the built-in maps. You have to run a C-MAP chip (e.g. Discover map chip), which supports depth shading, According to the manual, if you have the C-MAP chip inserted and selected then depth shading is enabled. I would test it out for you as I have the Discover chip but no Ti2 units available. Most likely those menu options are not available until you select the chip much like some of the Navionics map options. This is the link to the Elite Ti2 manual, see page 38: softwaredownloads.navico.com/Lowrance/FTP/Lowrance_Software%20-%20Copy/Documents/ELITE-Ti2_OM_EN_988-12259-001_w.pdf And thanks. I appreciate you watching the video.
@@garrywoodruff960 thank you for your detailed answer! I will check it out
You're welcome. Let me know how it works out for you.
Agreed great stuff as always
Thank you. I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Great stuff as always Garry!!!
Thanks Scott. I appreciate you watching the video(s).
Hi Garry! Watched a bunch of your videos and hoping I can connect with you. Having no source error with my active target 2 and thought maybe you could help! I’m losing my mind trying to figure it out. I’ve done all the conventional fixes I’ve found!
Hi Ben. Thanks for the watching the videos and subscribing. What configuration do you have? Does this happen randomly or does it always show up? I assume that you have checked the LEDs on the Active Target 2 module. The power should be flashing green to yellow, this indicates that the module has booted up and is ready. The Ethernet LED should be flashing when one or more of the other units are turned on and are on the same network. Once I know what configuration that you have, I can suggest steps to fix this problem.
@@garrywoodruff960 thank you so much for responding! I was trying to find an email for you earlier, so figured I’d just comment on here. 1) NSS EVO3S (two of them) 2) AT2 module- power is flashing amber/green, Ethernet led flashing, sonar solid 3)force updated both the MFD and AT2 4) Tried “restore default” technique I’ve seen on a bunch of UA-cam I’m seriously so bummed. It’s a brand new boat and I was just so excited to finally purchase AT2, and so far it’s been a big paper weight!
I'm also on Facebook and Instagram.
@@garrywoodruff960 I sent you a message over on Facebook! Might be in your “message request” folder
Hi Ben, I'm glad that we got it working for you. Good luck with the new boat. And if you have any more questions, feel free to ask.
Thanks great video and everything is explained very well. Thanks
You're welcome. And thank you for watching the video and subscribing as well. I really appreciate it. I do try to explain things in the videos, that does make them a little longer but I believe the more information that you have then you'll make better decisions and do the job correctly.
More quality content sir
Thank you. I try. And thanks for watching
Do you know if you run 2 Active Target 2 on your boat, do you need a S3100 module to run them both? Or the S3100 has nothing to do with running 2 AT2?
No you do not need the S3100 module. I would use the NEP2 module and connect the Ethernet cables to it. Then you will need to connect at least on of your units to it. The NEP2 will let you connect up to 5 devices, so you can add 3 more units. If you look at the video series on the Caymas you'll see there are 2 AT1 installed on the bow along with a NEP2 module and 3 HDS Live units. If you are going to run multiple AT2 units make sure that you connect their blue wires (SYNC) together to minimize noise.
That's the neatest installation of boat electronics that I've ever seen!! Your customer must be thrilled!
Thank you. It is very tedious and time consuming to do it that way. But when you're done, the customer is happy and everything works really well, you take pride in your work. He picks the boat up tonight, so I'll see how he likes it in person. He did watch the video twice and shared it to bunch of his buddies.
Thank You Gary...! Lowrance could learn a few things abut consumer support, not everyone can afford a marine shop to do the install.
You're welcome. I hope that you got something out of watching the video. And most companies could learn a bit about customer support, although I can list a couple that are heads above everyone in the industry. It can get expensive to pay a shop to do the work. And unless you know the shop, the quality and reliability may be lacking. I am trying to show how to do the work while explaining why things are done in a certain way.
It makes sense to me now! Simple is not so simple when you have multiple units.Thanks
Thanks for watching. And yes, there is a reason or multiple reasons why I take the time to do a few extra steps. I'm always trying to improve things and make it easier for customers.
Great information my friend. Glad you’re back sir.
Thank you. I was getting a bit tired at the end as evidenced by my fading voice. And then it took a lot of hours to put the final version together. And thanks for watching!!!!
What a great video. Thank you!!
Thank you very much. I appreciate you watching the video, I hope that it helped you.
Great info! Much appreciated
Thank you. I hope that you it helped you. If you have any questions please post them here and I'll try to get back you.
Hi Gary, I'm running an Airmar 275 LHW transducer, that has two cables low and high wide going through the s3100 and then I run the 3 in 1 transducer directly to my Lowrance elite fs9...so the s3100 is running the Airmar, do I need to run the ping sync?
Hi, if you have the Airmar connected on both channels of the S3100 module and there is no transducer attached directly to the Elite FS unit then you do not need to hook up the sync line. But since you have a 3-in-1 on the Elite FS then if it supported sync then yes you would connect it. But the only unit that currently supports the sync function is the Pro unit. You will see some noise on the Elite. I would disable the Sonar transducer on the Elite FS since the Airmar will give you the sonar. You may see some noise on the side scan but it will still be readable. (little blips but they are regular and you can train your eyes to ignore them.) Thanks for watching the video(s).
Hi and thanks for making video. I have HDS Carbon 9 on kayak. Can I connect red to red: black to black and yellow to yellow on AT and HDS to one battery? I understand AT will be on anytime unit is on. Both connected to one battery.
Yes you can. But I would connect the red and black wires directly to the battery for each unit. And I would also have a switch on the red wire to disconnect the units (HDS, AT module) from the battery when not in use. The AT module will have a slight current draw and may drain your battery down after time. And don't forget to put a fuse on the red wire. It's a 5A for the AT module and I think a 3A for the HDS 9. And thank you for watching the video. And thanks for the comment too!
Thanks for quick reply; I have amped 32 aph battery with clip terminals. Not sure how to connect 2 accessories. Can I run one wire to battery and split some how? Thanks for working with me.
You're welcome. I would probably run a red wire to the positive on the battery to a breaker (10 Amp should be sufficient), then from the OUT side of the breaker connect both devices (AT, HDS) with inline fuses. Then you can use the breaker also as a cutoff switch. Or put a switch in between the battery and breaker as the cutoff switch since you can extend the life of the breaker but not using it as a switch. The connect both grounds from the units to the battery. I assume that the battery using spade style slide on connectors. If so then I would get a 2 to 1 one style connector for the ground wires. In a larger installation I would use either a buss bar or a fuse block, but you only have 2 devices connected, so the simpler and more compact the better. I think that I showed a 2 to 1 style connect in the video on using a switch for controlling the AT module. And you'll want to seal everything up with marine grade heat shrink.
With option 2 what do you do with the black and red from the active target ?
You need to connect the red and black to your power supply (battery). You should have the red wire on a switch to minimize battery drain when you are note using the AT module. And don't forget to put a fuse on the red wire. It's a 5A for the AT module.
Thank you so much. ., this is a rare find.. I’m suffering the exact
I hope that this video helps you fix your problem. It is a common issue that I've seen and fortunately is straight forward to correct. Thanks for watching the video.
Put the Point-1 at the transom. Set the console units to use Point-1 for both GPS & (magnetic) heading. Set the bow MFDs to use their internal GPS (not Point-1), but still use the Point-1 for magnetic heading. No unit will spin, no unit will experience magnetic flux interference, and the actual GPS coordinates of any waypoint will be taken very close to where an underwater feature is seen. The bow transducers and GPS antenna are together, and the console units use a stern GPS antenna very close to the transom transducers. This makes returning to a waypoint very accurate, even if stored by one unit but returned to with a different unit.
That's an interesting suggestion. Thanks for your suggestion. Most of my customers are bass boats, where most if not all fishing is done from the bow, and prefer to use one GPS antenna placed on the bow for both coordinates and for heading. This is critical for marking waypoints like beds. The Point-1 has a +/- 3 degrees of accuracy on positioning, placing the Point-1 at the stern of the boat creates too large of a position error. Also, the Point-1 is a 32 channel GPS receiver, this gives a positional accuracy of 3 m (9.8 ft.) while the built-in GPS on the Live unit is 16 channels with 20m RMS accuracy. So for this reason it is preferred to use the Point-1 for coordinates. I ran a similar configuration that you suggested except I used a GPS antenna (Point-1 without heading) on the stern for the console units and a Point-1 on the bow for the bow units. When I marked a waypoint on the console it was consistently 20 ft off on the waypoint. Since switching back to all units using one GPS source that is not an issue. And yes, I originally thought that it made more sense to use the antenna closest to the transducer but for me and the way that I utilized the waypoints, it was consistently incorrect. What I would like would be to "configure" the boat to designate both the antenna location(s) and transducer location(s). Then the coordinate would be offset based on the antenna and transducer used for waypoint creation.
So can you do a short video of getting the PWD thru hull to work on the pro. I lost high speed depth
Thanks that is a great idea for a video. I was helping the marina's customer with the same problem this week. I'll see what I can put together this weekend. While my boat, with my Pro units, is still at the dealer due to my sickness, I do have everything in my stock to show you how to fix the problem. (Well just a Live unit but it is the same as for a Pro). Thanks again for watching the video(s). Garry
Hi, I just put the sonar video up. Let me know how you like it and if it helps you with your sonar problems. BTW - you're not the only one with this type of problem. It seems that I help multiple customers weekly fix this type of problem.
If connecting to switch panel and bus bar do u connect red and yellow wire both to positive
And if so can u run both to the same fuse
Hi, thanks for watching the video. For a power cord for a unit like a HDS Live or Elite FS, you do not need to connect the Yellow wire. For those units and similar, that wire (yellow) is an output signal that is used to wake up another device such as an Active Target or S3100 module. So, there is no need to connect the yellow wire if you are not connecting it to a module. So, the RED goes to a fused power wire usually coming from a bus bar or using the existing for wiring if it is of sufficient size. The YELLOW wire is not connected. For modules, the RED and YELLOW can be tied to the same switch with fused power to coming it. Let me know if this makes sense to you. And thanks for watching the video(s).
Great video. It seems very close to me.
I did the video on the St Lawrence River out of the Massena NY ramp. Is that what you are thinking? Oh, thanks for watching the video I hope that you liked it and also subscribed to my channel.
That's funny, I just reread your comment. And yes, the HD and 3-in-1 are very similar in image quality. I need to try that on different types of water where I may get different return signals.
Hi Gary, I see you have a wire terminated on the chassis ground on the S3100. How have you wired that up? Where does it go?
I have wired from the chassis to a ground on the fuse block. I use that for freshwater boats. However, for saltwater boats I connect the wire to an anode block. This will help with galvanization on the transducer, especially in saltwater. And I have noticed that it does improve the sonar signal a little. So I always connect the case ground to minimize potential issues.
I’ll subscribe and wait for an exact comparison. A great idea but hoping for all settings identical including the colors, kHz, etc. would be good to also change settings on both. That would be a great resource to decide if HD is worth $1400 (I have HDS so need to add S3100 ($$950))
Thank you for subscribing. I did a follow-up video where I had both transducers on my boat which allowed me to easily check the settings and do a better side-by-side comparison. I also did a separate video for the down imaging as well. This is the updated HD vs 3-in-1 video: ua-cam.com/video/8qJbeN3u9o8/v-deo.html Let me know if this helps. I have a couple more videos planned when I can get back boat up here from the dealer. (Still recovering and I'm not able to drive the 2000 miles RT to get it.)
Does the yellow wake up wire from the S3100 go to the HDS 12 wake up wire? I wired up my HDS 10, Carbon 12 and S3100 that way and I keep getting No Source. When I put the yellow S3100 on solid power the system works. Please advise Gary!
My units are Pro units, so the HDS wakeup wire is connected to the BLUE wire on the S3100 power cord. And the wakeup (YELLOW) wire on the S3100 is connected through a SSR to the boat accessory switch. If you have a Carbon unit then you would connect the Carbon wakeup to the S3100 wakeup wire together. So when the Carbon is powered up the S3100 is activated. If all cases, you must connect the S3100 power leads (red, black) to your power source. Thanks for watching the video.
@@garrywoodruff960 I have one carbon and one pro linked together. which wake up wire should I link the S3100 to?
I would connect the yellow wire that is closest to the S3100. For example, if the Carbon is on the console and the S3100 is also, then use the Carbon wakeup. But if the Pro is on the console then use the Pro. If they are both on the console, then use the Carbon. And connect the wakeup on the Pro to the Blue wire on the S3100. Then on the Pro, enable sync under the System tab under the Settings.
literally the only video on TY with this. Thank you!
You're welcome. I appreciate you watching the video. I am planning on at least one more video to dig further into the settings. Well, when I get fully recovered, which is getting closer. Make sure that you are subscribed so that you'll be notified. Thanks again.
Gary I think I’ve asked this before but I have a HDS Live 12 and a HDS Live 12 Pro without buying a 3100 module. But getting the new AI 3 in 1 what unit would you run on the console ? And the other for AT 1 at the bow ? Right now I have the older 2 in 1 transducer in the back with a shoot thru hull for 2D. Thanks for any help ! 👍
You will need to connect the new HD transducer to the Pro unit. So I would put the Pro at the console and replace the older 2-in-1 with the 3-in-1 HD transducer. And connect the shoot thru hull to Channel 1 on the Pro. And then you can share the output to the Live unit via Ethernet. Since both units have 2 Ethernet ports, you can connect them as follows: bow unit (Live) to console unit (Pro), and AT1 to the bow unit (Live). Since you have the AT1 there is no advantage to putting the Pro on the bow. Although I have seen some issues with Live units running both Ethernet ports simultaneously. I would be tempted to run 2 Ethernet cables to the Pro - one from the Live and the other from AT module. Of course another option is to use a network hub but that adds cost an bit more complexity. Hopefully that makes sense, if not let me know what questions you have.
@garrywoodruff960 Thank you so much Gary !!
You're welcome.
@garrywoodruff960 HI Gary got my AI HD 2 in 1 installed and it's hooked to the outside port (black one) and thru hull is on blue connector. If I go into pages/sonar the internal sonar ch 1 box isn't checked internal sonar ch2 is and network sonar. Is that right ? Thanks Glenn
You need to have both CH1 and CH2 turned on, as well as Network Sonar. CH1 is the Blue connector and is your in-hull transducer. CH2 is the black connector and is your 2-in-1 HD. I assume that this is on your Pro unit.
Can I hire you for a simple job or two? My friend and I have Hobie kayaks that need some minor electrical tune ups- much like what you discuss here. His just needs a battery hook up and my installer failed to hook up the yellow wire on my boat. I would love to have you look both boats over. We live in Grand Rapids, Mi but could plan a trip your way if you're available. Where exactly are you located?
That sounds like it would be a good job to work on and make some good videos as well. I am in southern New Hampshire, so that would be quite a drive for you. On the plus side, you could hit Champlain, Ontario, St Lawrence, and Erie on the way back. If you want to discuss this further contact on my Facebook page. Let me know. Garry.
Hi Garry.. Good tutorial.. In method 2 when connecting yellow to yellow so the Active Target only wakes up when the fish finder is turn on, am I still connecting the red power from the Active Target to my power source? It appears once I connect the Active Target to power it is causing a constant drain without an on/off switch? Thank you.
Hi, yes, in method 2, the Active Target will be turned on when the unit is powered up. And yes, you need to connect both the red and black wires to a power source, preferably the same as the one powering the unit. And thank you!
Ok I am running power to a fuse type box. So how do I wire from the fuse box to both the sonar unit and to power the Active Target module???
I use ring terminals to attach to the power wires from the units and modules. If you look at some of the other videos you can see how I connect the fuse block.
@garrywoodruff960 OK I am using just one unit a fs 9 my question is dealing with how to connect the yellow wire? Does the yellow wire from the sonar unit connect strait to the AT 2 yellow wire? It looks like they are connected but not thru the fuse block is that correct?
Hi, yes you connect the yellow wires directly together. I usually use a 18-22 size butt connect (Anchor marine heat shrink type). Sorry about the delay, I am still recovering and have good days and bad days. Fortunately the bad days are aren't so bad. Hopefully I'll be able to start making videos soon.
@@garrywoodruff960 Thanks
Hi Gary, I am installing AT1 in my boat. I currently have two 9" Lowrance's (one at bow and one at console). My plan is to run those units and the AT all off its own battery. So far I have ran 10AWG from the battery in the rear to the console area where I have setup a toggle switch to control the power on/off. I have mounted the AT box and ran the power cord to the console where switch is. From the bow of the boat I ran positive, negative, and a wire that I connected to the units yellow wire all ran to the console as well and those wires are all 12AWG. I have attached the 5amp fuses that came with each unit and the AT1. My plan from there would be to connect the yellow wire from AT to the wire I ran from the front console (I want to control on off of box with that console). And then would be connect three wires (two consoles and AT) together to the switch and then the main power from battery to the switch. Do you see any issues with this setup? Thank you!
I normally run 8 AWG for AT modules. What you need to do is to check for the voltage drop at end of the power wire to make sure that it has minimal drop. The 9s do not pull as much power (see the video on running the units in your house -- I have tables in the there that will give the current draw for the units). I don't know the size of your boat but I've run 8 AWG to the console and then 10 AWG to the bow on a 21 foot boat with 4 12s, no AT module. This worked well. However, the AT module gets better images with larger power wiring. And that power wiring gets run directly to the battery in the stern (with a breaker). I would also put a breaker the battery compartment between the battery and the power wires.
@@garrywoodruff960 Thanks for the reply, I had some 10 AWG and 12 AWG on hand that is why I originally was going to go that route. It is going on a 17.5 ft champion. The 10 awg from the battery to console is about 10ft long hooked straight to a switch. I then have the two 9s and the AT all connected together into the switch. The 12 awg to front 9 is also about 10 ft long. If you think going to 8 awg is better option I will do that. What is the need for a breaker at battery compartment if I have everything on a switch? And what amp/breaker would you recommend. Thanks
Due to the minimal voltage drop of the 8 AWG, I would use that for your power wiring. You'll get less than 0.1 voltage drop from your battery to the bow. Another advantage is that if you decide to go with larger units in the future then your boat wiring is ready for them. Sorry for the delay, still recovering.
You omitted the best of all worlds option! Run the MFD yellow wire through a simple SPST (on-off) switch to connect to the yellow wire of the accessory item. If the switch is off, you've forced the accessory to NEVER turn on, useful any time you don't intend to use the accessory. If you flip that switch ON, you allow the MFD to turn on (or off) the accessory.
Thanks for another way to control the module. I tried to limit the video to 5 ways for controlling the module and i used methods that I had installed in multiple client boat configurations. Thanks for watching the video.
I'm installing the active target 2 on my pontoon. It's paired to an elite 9. I have it working but if I change the screen to sonar, and then go back to active target it says no source. If I turn the elite off and power it back up the active target works.
What about depp sea water …?
I haven't done really deep with the transducer yet so I don't have firsthand knowledge. However, these are the specs for the transducer. Range -- Max 150 ft at 1075 kHz Max 300 ft at 455 kHz I checked on the Simrad site, the transducer is the same over there.
Yuck, NEMA.
NMEA 2000 is a data bus. I use it for my engine data, Point-1, and other devices. Ethernet is for sharing maps, waypoint (full database and syncing), radar, sonar data, etc. Two different buses and both have their purposes. NMEA 2000 is simple to setup properly once you understand the network. That is, it is a powered balanced network. All devices are connected via a T to the network backbone.
where can i find a HD transducer mount like the one shown made of aluminum chanel ??? or made yourself?
The mount that you see is from Transducer Shield and Saver. Bass Fishin Electronics also has one as well. www.transducershieldandsaver.com/order/ www.bassfishinelectronics.com/ Both sites have very good mounts.
Big money with those hds pros. 🏆🫡💪💪Nice setup. How u like compared to the HDS live? Running live here.
That is so true. I was able to sell my old Lives at a fair price which helped to offset the price. I have noticed that the Pros have a better built-in map, and they are a little faster. The HD transducer capability is nice to have. But the best feature for me is the ability to sync sonar and AT signals to eliminate transducer noise on the screen.
were you using the s3100 module for the hd transducer?
Yes, the 3100 module has the HD transducer connected. Actually, I am using the fish reveal (FR) version of the HD transducer and that requires the S3100 module to fully function.
Great videos Garry. I have AT1 and an HDS 12 Carbon at the bow. Is this not a function I can utilize with my unit? I have a 3-n-1 transducer on the trolling motor that I have to stop to keep the noise down.
Unfortunately, the sync capability is only with the HDS Pro, AT2, and S3100 as of now. I had 3-in-1 noise when I was running the AT1 module as well. Yes, stopping the 3-in-1 does eliminate the noise but I left mine running and I just filtered the noise in my head. Thanks for watching the video. Sorry about the delay in responding, I'm just starting to feel better.
I've seen that temperature issue with the S3100 too. Try this: Turn your left unit off. On your right unit, go into Settings, sonar and turn off both internal channel 1 and channel 2. Restart the right unit and see if you can see temp. from the S3100 now. Turn your sonar channels back on. Turning those channels off seemed to force the unit to look for the S3100. I'd love to hear if this works for you. Thanks for the video!
Hi, thanks I will try that sequence when I get my boat back (after I can drive). I will let you know if that works for me or if I can find another sequence. And thanks for watching the videos. Sorry the reply took so long, I am just starting to feel better.
Hi Garry, if yellow and red wires are connected to the battery together as you described in the first method does it drain the battery because the unit is always on? Thank you in advance!
Yes it does. That's why you should have a cutoff switch on the battery or a least switch the module. Thanks for watching.
@@garrywoodruff960 Thank you!
Thank you for this. After watching the video, I really enjoyed reading the comments, questions and your answers. Great questions, very practical, and very informative answers. I'm looking to upgrade to AT and having this aspect of the installation explained up front (yellow wire turn on signal) is priceless. I really appreciate the discussions surrounding what gauge and type of wire to use (solid or stranded?). One suggestion for your instructive demo would be a simple diagram, on paper, of each method, including power source(s), switches, isolation relays, location of fuses along the circuits, and their amp ratings (the draw of the various electronic parts of the system). An electronics instructor once told us that a picture is worth 1,024 (1k) words. Ha, ha, long time ago. Also appreciated is the tip on why one may want to save battery power by turning off the AT (black box) module when not in use yet continue to use the other fish finder functions. Thanks again.
Thanks you for watching the video. I tried to make this video as simple as possible and tried to cover the same things for each type of switching. That's a great suggestion for wiring diagrams. I post on for the SSD usage on my community page a while back. My electronics classes were before the big age of digital, so only 1,000 from them. 8^) For the yellow wire 18 AWG marine tinned stranded is the best to use. I have also use 16 AWG as well. There is very little current draw on the circuit. But you have to consider the wire flex if you go any smaller. I do try to add in tips in the videos. I've helped a lot of people over the years, and I want to share my knowledge. Thanks again for the comment and watching the video!