OK. It sounds kind of a bit much to have to expect all coach owners to have to go and find specialty 4 point weighing stations at rallies. If this is so necessary, why aren’t commercial vehicles required to do this? And have this equipment readily available
I've always just ran 20 psi under max which is 110 psi on my tires if I'm running light and at 10 psi under max under a load. That way I shouldn't run over max. Never had a problem and I've had tires last for a decade. I also take exceptional care of my tires. I always cover them when not driving. I never use tire "conditioners" like Armorall. That stuff is BAD for tires as it draws moisture out of the rubber causing premature wear. I also religiously inspect my tires for signs of wear and check pressures. I've seen and read too many horror stories about blow outs. I've never put my motorhome on a scale but this year I'm going to as well as installing a TPMS. Great video! I didn't know under inflation is worse than over inflation. Good to know!
I have your TPMS and I am satisfied with it. A problem I have is I can't find any two tire pressure gauges that give the same reading, and I can't get nt three gauges and my TPMS to agree. What do you suggest? I have a TireMinder digital gauge and two Jaco analog gauges. Next question; what don't we just air all the tires to the max and get on down the road?
Tire gauges can all give different readings. Each one usually states the margin of error which can range from +/- 1-3 PSI on the ones we've seen. They do have locations where you can recalibrate them; I know Escapees used to do it at Boot Camp to help with this. And we agree, going with the max pressure is always the simplest way to do it!
When I'm traveling in my rv my my fresh water, grey and black tank may be at different capacity, also gas tanks my be full or half full. Am I supposed to keep changing my tire pressures ?
Are those cheap air pressure check devices good for Travel Trailer tires. Mine always says PSI 0 when I check my trailer tires. The same device is accurate for my tow vehicle, giving me 38.5 to 40.0 on each tire with a PSI of 44. (There is also a separate note on my new 4Runner tires that says to never inflate beyond 40psi)
Without getting weighed, the simplest way to ensure you are safe would be to run the max psi on the tire. The worst thing would be to run it too low, so it's always best to err on the high side.
@@Technorv Loads constantly change and nobody I know goes to the weigh station unless they suspect they are over packed. I go with the max PSI of the tire. It matches the placard in the coach as well.
@@QLFProductions Then you are all good! Going with the max PSI is always safe for your tires (assuming you are not overweight for the RV). Some like to run with lower pressure for a smoother ride through, so this video is to help them decide a safer lower psi for their load.
@@Technorv I'm never overweight since I'm more of a weekend RVer. Maybe I can go down to 70psi. I hear that lower PSI increases the potential for a blow out.
@@QLFProductionsThat is absolutely correct. Low psi is the worst thing for tires. It creates heat which is deadly for tires. The only way we recommend running lower than what is on the tire is if you have been weighed at each tire position and use the psi recommended by the manufacturer for that weight. Too many people lower their psi for a better ride without knowing their weight which actually causes them to have too little psi (= tire failure). Unless you know what you weigh by tire, run the highest psi allowed. High psi is not bad for your tires.
Great video and the information was full of details without being boring. Thanks for doing the homework and adding links with charts. I appreciate this video. Thank you.
Wow! I initially didn't think it was going to be a good video (watched the first 2 minutes). But then I read some of the comments and saw some really positive ones. So, I restarted the video and really like your explanation. This is the best tire pressure explanation I've seen. Well done!! Tks!!
Picking this up from the FROG Virtual RV, Thanx for the Video, My first year out pulling my Pop Up I was blowing tires, and I suspect this was due to over loading the trailer. I am much more careful with this now and after the first year, we have a better Idea of what we need to pack and what we don't need to pack. Where I am located I suspect my only option for weighing is the total trailer at an Agriculture shop (single pad). When weighing like this, should I remain connected to the trailer or should I drop the trailer before taking the weight? Thanx.
Great video, but your link to the Continental pressure chart is no good. I tried finding the chart on the Conti site for a VancoFourSeason LT.215/85 R16 with no luck at all.
The first thing that comes to mind, is the difficulty of finding a location to weight each corner of our coach! I haven't a clue as to where I would go to do that, as the truck scales here just weight 'front axle/rear axle'. Now, on top of this consideration, in reality us RV owners, 'should' be checking our tire pressure before each trip, but again, getting each corner weighed just isn't a common thing, to where getting to a portable scale is an easy option! My coach shows our coach as 12,780 kilograms here in Canada, so doing the math, it's just over 28,000 lbs in it's 36' length, yet the 12,780 is generally useless for calculating each corners air pressure. Going to the tire manufacturers inflation tables, it appears I'm putting in more pressure than I should by 5+ lbs, but we got home a month ago from a 3+ month stay over the winter months to a warmer state, and we had no tire issues, but my tires are now at 6 years old. I do have a TPMS system on our coach, which reads the pressures quite accurately, and I hope someone might have the answer to finding 'portable scales' in all parts of the country, so those with large coaches can get these accurate numbers, for correct pressures! I currently have Michelin XZA3+ 275/80/22.5 tires which to this day have no cracks and basically still look new, so I'm trying to stretch the time period, as Michelin states they should be good up to 10 years?
Hey thanks for reaching out! It can certainly be hard to find scales that will weigh your RV at each tire. Some RV shows/rallies have companies visit with this kind of scale, so I would start paying attention to the various shows and find one with this feature. Without a weight at each tire, we don't recommend using the tire inflation chart. Instead, we recommend the following: 1) If the tires came from the factory with your RV when it was manufactured, then go with the max recommended tire pressure listed on the sticker in the RV; 2) If the tires were replaced at some point, we recommend going with the max tire pressure listed on the sidewall of the tire. I hope this helps!
I s there a tire chart to compensate for ambient temperature and tire pressure. When I was an airline mechanic we had such charts. We cont have an average 70 degree day to check pressure especially in the southern states or after driving for a few hours. So how do we compensate for the tires actual temperature to get the pressure correct. 15-20 % spreed from cold to high seems awfully high to not get the pressure right.
Hi Peter, the tire engineers that put all of this together probably do not expect people to go to these lengths to ensure the PSI is correct based on ambient temp. However, if you wanted to do that, you are correct, the inflation charts are based on 70 degrees, and for every 10 degrees above that you can expect a rise of about 2 PSI. If you just take that consideration when measuring PSI in the morning before your wheels start turning then you could dial it in a little more. Hope this helps. Eric
WOW, that is the first time any one has been able to answer the question, is it OK to go over max cold tire psi while driving and the tire heats up and the psi goes %10/15 higher, thank you
Hi Norm, You are correct that as the tires heat up, the PSI also rises. This is all built in to the max cold tire pressure and is assumed. So the answer is yes, it is ok for the PSI to go above max cold tire pressure because of the tires heating up and the PSI rising. I hope this helps. Eric
First trip with my TPMS and I used the recommended TP listed on the sticker inside my 35' Georgetown RV which was 92 psi for all six wheels. After an hour of 65 mph travel, I noticed a large difference in the inside/outside dual tires on the right rear. The outside tire only went up to 98 psi while the inside dual went to 112 psi. These are original equipment tires with only 14,500 miles on them. At no time, even at 90 F ambient temperature did any tire exceed 110 degrees F. What would cause such a pressure differential on the same side of the rear axle?
Here's how to get the individual weight of each wheel at the CAT scales. Weigh twice. First time weigh each axle on different platforms on the scale. Do a reweigh. Second time I pull the right hand set of tires off the scale onto the shoulder. All of the CAT scales I've seen have at least two feet of shoulder on the right hand side. With the reweigh weight of the left hand side and simple math, you can determine what the weight is of the right hand side. A reweigh only costs $2.00 more.
Many CAT scales do not have enough side clearance to allow only one side weighing. In fact, it is CAT company policy to not allow this as it can affect scale accuracy. You can check local sand & gravel pits, some building supply and I even found a coal dealer with a scale where you can get one side weights. Here is a worksheet to help with the calculations fifthwheelst.com/documents/BridgestoneWeighForm.pdf
My question is, regarding weight, my Michelin tires are rated at 7160 lbs @ 120psi, but I'm 'well' under 7160 lbs, so should I be below the 120 psi variable, because of the weight of my coach? It seems like I'm 'over-tired' meaning these particular Michelin's are quite possibly made for much heavier coaches that mine, so the previous owner ran 100 Psi front and 110 Psi rear, and I monitor them via the TPMS with pressure & temperature. On a hot day, I've seen as high as 135 degrees, which I suppose isn't that high for a quality tire, but I do keep an eye on the TPMS screen, watching the temps for sure. Still unsure if I should add a little more air, at least to the front, even though I'm below the 'weight' showing on the side of the tire?
Hey Dale, the only proper way to do this is to apply the weight on the front tires to the inflation chart. If the chart says 100 PSI based on that weight then I would leave it there. This is not a issue if you know the weight of the RV and are following the chart. Hope this helps. Eric
Ryder and I assume many others overinflate the tires to account for air loss due to lack of driver maintenance. They routinely set all 8 drive tires at 95 psi, which allows the rear axles to carry 40k lbs. Problem is, legally in the USA you can only carry 34. Reducing down to 75 ensures that those tires can carry 34k. Overinflated tires wear faster and of course make the ride worse.
I agree that overinflated tires don't ride as well, but underinflated tires can be dangerous. It's best to get weighed and run with the proper amount of air for sure. Thanks for your comment!
Great video, the best one i've seen on this specific subject. Still i would appriciate if you could answer one more question. By movement and road angles your vehicle would have dinamic forces acting on the tires. Is there a specific preassure % you need to add depending on the load you're carrying? Or is it already included on the manufacter's chart?
Hi Daniel, The inflation charts take it all into consideration, and it is based on the load that the tire is carrying. The charts even take the crown of the road into consideration. Follow the charts based on your weight and you will be good. Hope this helps. Eric
Omg we’ve been doing this all wrong 🙈. It has been SO difficult finding information on this, thank you SOO much for explaining this in a way that is understandable and answering EVERY question that we’ve had. Wow, I just can’t express enough how grateful I am for this video lol, I wish we saw this 7 months ago when we first started. Thank god we haven’t had any issues all this time.
Hello, this was a great video and very helpful! Thank you! Close to where i live, right by a lumber mill, is an unattended Ministry of Transportation self-weigh scale in a large pull out, I assume to accommodate the logging trucks. can i just drive ornto the platform one tire at a time?
Hi Tannimaus1, If the scale is designed for heavier loads then it seems like you could do that. The only issue I see is being level when you go onto the scale. This means that if the scale is raised, then you would want to put something under all of the other tires to make sure you are level with the scale. So when you drive one tire up on the scale, you would also at the same time want to be pulling all of the other tires up on some type of plank of the same height. Even if you just got some wood to drive up on would help. Other than that, and without actually seeing it, I think you would be ok, assuming the scale is accurate and calibrated.
Great question. If you run max cold tire pressure but you are under the max weight, then your ride might not be as smooth as it could be since you are technically riding on overinflated tires. Riding on overinflated tires could also cause them to wear unevenly over time. Finally, when you are overinflated, less of your tire is making contact with the road which could cause traction issues, but it would have to be pretty severe for this to be the case. Even with all this, being underinflated is still worse for a tire and could cause more problems which is why we recommend staying at max cold tire pressure unless you are weighed.
This was a great info video, and a eye opener. Not really surprising but a lot of camper owners doesn't even think about this, I've talked to quite a few people with campers and they said they didn't even think about it. So I've told them to check out technorv and watch their videos even the one on tires . I've started getting my rig weighed making changes on the hitch to get the weights more even from axle to axle and the weights in each tire. Big difference on handling when axle weights are closer together.
You could end up with 4 different tire weights, but you should always set the same tire pressure across an axle, so you would only have 2 different tire pressures - one for each axle. If you have 2 tire positions across an axle that have different weights, then you use the position with the higher weight to determine psi.
The manufacturer puts the proper inflation amount on the information sticker. Inflate to that just like you do for your car or truck. Do not just inflate to the max pressure rating of the tire. Your wheels might not be rated for that much pressure and you could loose traction when you need it most.
OK. It sounds kind of a bit much to have to expect all coach owners to have to go and find specialty 4 point weighing stations at rallies. If this is so necessary, why aren’t commercial vehicles required to do this? And have this equipment readily available
Thank you sir
I've always just ran 20 psi under max which is 110 psi on my tires if I'm running light and at 10 psi under max under a load. That way I shouldn't run over max. Never had a problem and I've had tires last for a decade. I also take exceptional care of my tires. I always cover them when not driving. I never use tire "conditioners" like Armorall. That stuff is BAD for tires as it draws moisture out of the rubber causing premature wear. I also religiously inspect my tires for signs of wear and check pressures. I've seen and read too many horror stories about blow outs. I've never put my motorhome on a scale but this year I'm going to as well as installing a TPMS. Great video! I didn't know under inflation is worse than over inflation. Good to know!
Thank you!
I have your TPMS and I am satisfied with it. A problem I have is I can't find any two tire pressure gauges that give the same reading, and I can't get nt three gauges and my TPMS to agree. What do you suggest? I have a TireMinder digital gauge and two Jaco analog gauges.
Next question; what don't we just air all the tires to the max and get on down the road?
Tire gauges can all give different readings. Each one usually states the margin of error which can range from +/- 1-3 PSI on the ones we've seen. They do have locations where you can recalibrate them; I know Escapees used to do it at Boot Camp to help with this.
And we agree, going with the max pressure is always the simplest way to do it!
Thank you been looking for this exact video
Glad we could help!
When I'm traveling in my rv my my fresh water, grey and black tank may be at different capacity, also gas tanks my be full or half full. Am I supposed to keep changing my tire pressures ?
Are those cheap air pressure check devices good for Travel Trailer tires. Mine always says PSI 0 when I check my trailer tires. The same device is accurate for my tow vehicle, giving me 38.5 to 40.0 on each tire with a PSI of 44. (There is also a separate note on my new 4Runner tires that says to never inflate beyond 40psi)
Fantastic video with very valuable info.
Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Manufacturers specs on the door.
Ask 10 different "experts ", get ten different answers.
If psi is set by the axle why would individual tire weight matter? If you know axle weight you know what you need to it would seem. 🤔
He answered this. Weighing the axle does not tell you the load on each tire.
Thanks very much for a informative article.
Thanks! I never knew you were supposed to change tire pressure based on weight!!!!
Glad to help! We have a lot more videos on tire pressure and tire safety on our channel. You should check them out!
how about a happy medium psi?
I'm sure you are being over technical.
Without getting weighed, the simplest way to ensure you are safe would be to run the max psi on the tire. The worst thing would be to run it too low, so it's always best to err on the high side.
THANKYOU!!!! You answered ALL my questions!!!!!!!
Glad we could help!
@@Technorv Loads constantly change and nobody I know goes to the weigh station unless they suspect they are over packed. I go with the max PSI of the tire. It matches the placard in the coach as well.
@@QLFProductions Then you are all good! Going with the max PSI is always safe for your tires (assuming you are not overweight for the RV). Some like to run with lower pressure for a smoother ride through, so this video is to help them decide a safer lower psi for their load.
@@Technorv I'm never overweight since I'm more of a weekend RVer. Maybe I can go down to 70psi. I hear that lower PSI increases the potential for a blow out.
@@QLFProductionsThat is absolutely correct. Low psi is the worst thing for tires. It creates heat which is deadly for tires. The only way we recommend running lower than what is on the tire is if you have been weighed at each tire position and use the psi recommended by the manufacturer for that weight. Too many people lower their psi for a better ride without knowing their weight which actually causes them to have too little psi (= tire failure). Unless you know what you weigh by tire, run the highest psi allowed. High psi is not bad for your tires.
Very helpful, thank you
Great video and the information was full of details without being boring. Thanks for doing the homework and adding links with charts. I appreciate this video. Thank you.
Thanks for the kind words. We are glad it was informative.
That is the first time I have heard this explained so well AND with links to manufacturers charts. You folks are great.
Thanks, Jerry!
Thank you! Been looking everywhere for this and this was super clear and straightforward.
You're welcome!
Wow! I initially didn't think it was going to be a good video (watched the first 2 minutes). But then I read some of the comments and saw some really positive ones. So, I restarted the video and really like your explanation. This is the best tire pressure explanation I've seen. Well done!! Tks!!
Again. very good info and much appreciated. Thanks for taking the time for this excellent video.
Thanks Wayne, we will keep putting these type videos out for the RVing community.
Picking this up from the FROG Virtual RV, Thanx for the Video, My first year out pulling my Pop Up I was blowing tires, and I suspect this was due to over loading the trailer. I am much more careful with this now and after the first year, we have a better Idea of what we need to pack and what we don't need to pack. Where I am located I suspect my only option for weighing is the total trailer at an Agriculture shop (single pad). When weighing like this, should I remain connected to the trailer or should I drop the trailer before taking the weight? Thanx.
This is the first video that has made any sense and it almost anticipated my questions.
Great video, but your link to the Continental pressure chart is no good. I tried finding the chart on the Conti site for a VancoFourSeason LT.215/85 R16 with no luck at all.
Excellent info thanks
Great "Info", Thanks a lot, and very well done!
Glad you enjoyed it!
The first thing that comes to mind, is the difficulty of finding a location to weight each corner of our coach! I haven't a clue as to where I would go to do that, as the truck scales here just weight 'front axle/rear axle'. Now, on top of this consideration, in reality us RV owners, 'should' be checking our tire pressure before each trip, but again, getting each corner weighed just isn't a common thing, to where getting to a portable scale is an easy option! My coach shows our coach as 12,780 kilograms here in Canada, so doing the math, it's just over 28,000 lbs in it's 36' length, yet the 12,780 is generally useless for calculating each corners air pressure. Going to the tire manufacturers inflation tables, it appears I'm putting in more pressure than I should by 5+ lbs, but we got home a month ago from a 3+ month stay over the winter months to a warmer state, and we had no tire issues, but my tires are now at 6 years old. I do have a TPMS system on our coach, which reads the pressures quite accurately, and I hope someone might have the answer to finding 'portable scales' in all parts of the country, so those with large coaches can get these accurate numbers, for correct pressures! I currently have Michelin XZA3+ 275/80/22.5 tires which to this day have no cracks and basically still look new, so I'm trying to stretch the time period, as Michelin states they should be good up to 10 years?
Hey thanks for reaching out! It can certainly be hard to find scales that will weigh your RV at each tire. Some RV shows/rallies have companies visit with this kind of scale, so I would start paying attention to the various shows and find one with this feature. Without a weight at each tire, we don't recommend using the tire inflation chart. Instead, we recommend the following: 1) If the tires came from the factory with your RV when it was manufactured, then go with the max recommended tire pressure listed on the sticker in the RV; 2) If the tires were replaced at some point, we recommend going with the max tire pressure listed on the sidewall of the tire. I hope this helps!
I s there a tire chart to compensate for ambient temperature and tire pressure. When I was an airline mechanic we had such charts. We cont have an average 70 degree day to check pressure especially in the southern states or after driving for a few hours. So how do we compensate for the tires actual temperature to get the pressure correct. 15-20 % spreed from cold to high seems awfully high to not get the pressure right.
Hi Peter, the tire engineers that put all of this together probably do not expect people to go to these lengths to ensure the PSI is correct based on ambient temp. However, if you wanted to do that, you are correct, the inflation charts are based on 70 degrees, and for every 10 degrees above that you can expect a rise of about 2 PSI. If you just take that consideration when measuring PSI in the morning before your wheels start turning then you could dial it in a little more. Hope this helps. Eric
Can you add Big O tire inflation chart?
WOW, that is the first time any one has been able to answer the question, is it OK to go over max cold tire psi while driving and the tire heats up and the psi goes %10/15 higher, thank you
Hi Norm,
You are correct that as the tires heat up, the PSI also rises. This is all built in to the max cold tire pressure and is assumed. So the answer is yes, it is ok for the PSI to go above max cold tire pressure because of the tires heating up and the PSI rising. I hope this helps. Eric
First trip with my TPMS and I used the recommended TP listed on the sticker inside my 35' Georgetown RV which was 92 psi for all six wheels.
After an hour of 65 mph travel, I noticed a large difference in the inside/outside dual tires on the right rear. The outside tire only went up to 98 psi while the inside dual went to 112 psi. These are original equipment tires with only 14,500 miles on them.
At no time, even at 90 F ambient temperature did any tire exceed 110 degrees F.
What would cause such a pressure differential on the same side of the rear axle?
There is less air flow to the inner duals, so they often run hotter which means higher psi. This is very common.
Thank you very much. That makes a lot of sense.
Here's how to get the individual weight of each wheel at the CAT scales. Weigh twice. First time weigh each axle on different platforms on the scale. Do a reweigh. Second time I pull the right hand set of tires off the scale onto the shoulder. All of the CAT scales I've seen have at least two feet of shoulder on the right hand side. With the reweigh weight of the left hand side and simple math, you can determine what the weight is of the right hand side. A reweigh only costs $2.00 more.
Many CAT scales do not have enough side clearance to allow only one side weighing. In fact, it is CAT company policy to not allow this as it can affect scale accuracy. You can check local sand & gravel pits, some building supply and I even found a coal dealer with a scale where you can get one side weights. Here is a worksheet to help with the calculations fifthwheelst.com/documents/BridgestoneWeighForm.pdf
My question is, regarding weight, my Michelin tires are rated at 7160 lbs @ 120psi, but I'm 'well' under 7160 lbs, so should I be below the 120 psi variable, because of the weight of my coach? It seems like I'm 'over-tired' meaning these particular Michelin's are quite possibly made for much heavier coaches that mine, so the previous owner ran 100 Psi front and 110 Psi rear, and I monitor them via the TPMS with pressure & temperature. On a hot day, I've seen as high as 135 degrees, which I suppose isn't that high for a quality tire, but I do keep an eye on the TPMS screen, watching the temps for sure. Still unsure if I should add a little more air, at least to the front, even though I'm below the 'weight' showing on the side of the tire?
Hey Dale, the only proper way to do this is to apply the weight on the front tires to the inflation chart. If the chart says 100 PSI based on that weight then I would leave it there. This is not a issue if you know the weight of the RV and are following the chart. Hope this helps. Eric
great info, thanks.
Glad it was informative!
Ryder and I assume many others overinflate the tires to account for air loss due to lack of driver maintenance. They routinely set all 8 drive tires at 95 psi, which allows the rear axles to carry 40k lbs.
Problem is, legally in the USA you can only carry 34. Reducing down to 75 ensures that those tires can carry 34k. Overinflated tires wear faster and of course make the ride worse.
I agree that overinflated tires don't ride as well, but underinflated tires can be dangerous. It's best to get weighed and run with the proper amount of air for sure. Thanks for your comment!
Great video, the best one i've seen on this specific subject. Still i would appriciate if you could answer one more question. By movement and road angles your vehicle would have dinamic forces acting on the tires. Is there a specific preassure % you need to add depending on the load you're carrying? Or is it already included on the manufacter's chart?
Hi Daniel,
The inflation charts take it all into consideration, and it is based on the load that the tire is carrying. The charts even take the crown of the road into consideration. Follow the charts based on your weight and you will be good.
Hope this helps. Eric
Omg we’ve been doing this all wrong 🙈. It has been SO difficult finding information on this, thank you SOO much for explaining this in a way that is understandable and answering EVERY question that we’ve had. Wow, I just can’t express enough how grateful I am for this video lol, I wish we saw this 7 months ago when we first started. Thank god we haven’t had any issues all this time.
Hi Christina, we are happy to help. Thanks for the compliment, it is appreciated. Safe travels out there! Eric
Hello, this was a great video and very helpful! Thank you! Close to where i live, right by a lumber mill, is an unattended Ministry of Transportation self-weigh scale in a large pull out, I assume to accommodate the logging trucks. can i just drive ornto the platform one tire at a time?
Hi Tannimaus1,
If the scale is designed for heavier loads then it seems like you could do that. The only issue I see is being level when you go onto the scale. This means that if the scale is raised, then you would want to put something under all of the other tires to make sure you are level with the scale. So when you drive one tire up on the scale, you would also at the same time want to be pulling all of the other tires up on some type of plank of the same height. Even if you just got some wood to drive up on would help. Other than that, and without actually seeing it, I think you would be ok, assuming the scale is accurate and calibrated.
Why not just run max cold tire pressure all the time?
Great question. If you run max cold tire pressure but you are under the max weight, then your ride might not be as smooth as it could be since you are technically riding on overinflated tires. Riding on overinflated tires could also cause them to wear unevenly over time. Finally, when you are overinflated, less of your tire is making contact with the road which could cause traction issues, but it would have to be pretty severe for this to be the case. Even with all this, being underinflated is still worse for a tire and could cause more problems which is why we recommend staying at max cold tire pressure unless you are weighed.
This was a great info video, and a eye opener. Not really surprising but a lot of camper owners doesn't even think about this, I've talked to quite a few people with campers and they said they didn't even think about it. So I've told them to check out technorv and watch their videos even the one on tires . I've started getting my rig weighed making changes on the hitch to get the weights more even from axle to axle and the weights in each tire. Big difference on handling when axle weights are closer together.
Thanks for the kind words! We agree, it is not talked about enough in the industry.
So, are you telling me I could end up with 4 different tire pressures? (Travel Trailer with 2 axles)
You could end up with 4 different tire weights, but you should always set the same tire pressure across an axle, so you would only have 2 different tire pressures - one for each axle. If you have 2 tire positions across an axle that have different weights, then you use the position with the higher weight to determine psi.
What did you mean when you said if you haven't been weighed to go with max tire pressure. Are you referring to max cold tire pressure?
Yes, Greg. It is better to be overinflated at your max cold tire pressure than to guess at a PSI and be underinflated.
The manufacturer puts the proper inflation amount on the information sticker. Inflate to that just like you do for your car or truck. Do not just inflate to the max pressure rating of the tire. Your wheels might not be rated for that much pressure and you could loose traction when you need it most.
Whoa
Too much talk...