Getting closer mate. Making good progress despite personal life and the new addition. Interesting to see that you didn’t actually have to cut that much of the floor pan away to mount the transfer box. I was expecting a huge hole in the floor!
@ that’s going nowhere. Looks tidy and factory too with that adapter plate. Be interesting to see what you do with the exhaust without sacrificing ground clearance too much. Look forward to the next one!
Nice project mate 😊 I would say though that the rear diff mount should sit down upon something inside of being upside, as you have it now. Just cos you're relying on the threads of those two bolts to take all the stress instead of a lower brace that takes the strain and the bolts are just a method to locate the mount. Just a thought 😉
It's been a long time since I did an abrasive wheels course but I'm pretty sure it's that normal metal cutting disks contain aluminium dust or something like that, so it's not the angle grinding that's the issue, you just need a specific disk for aluminium.
You don’t need to fill the box with Power steering fluid, just cut the inlet port off flush and fill the hole with chemical metal. That’s all I did with my Locked boxes. Hopefully it’s a locked box with adapter rings rather than just stuffing a couple more clutch plates in there to lock it up.
@ cavalier or Calibra turbos were all I worked on for long time. Hopefully your going to pull the T-box apart and check it through. They are fairly sturdy if set up right and paired with a Quaife ATB to take the strain off of the T-Box the better.
@sonnycoton7483 I will strip it yeah, how do you fit an ATB, the diffs are different? I have an ATB and it isn't the same. Also how does it take the strain off. It drives off the final drive so it shouldn't make a difference surely?
@ they did a 4x4 ATB for the f20/f28 box. It takes the strain off as with a open front diff all the torque will go through the TXB if one front wheel looses traction, I’ve blown a few boxes up until I put a ATB in the front. They’re getting rare now. Lol
Getting closer mate. Making good progress despite personal life and the new addition.
Interesting to see that you didn’t actually have to cut that much of the floor pan away to mount the transfer box. I was expecting a huge hole in the floor!
Thank you. Yeah so was I to be honest, so I was pleasantly surprised 🙂
Excellent work Dan, it's progressing really nicely. Love the workaround with the gearbox mount!
Thanks, glad you like it. I was worried about strength to start with, but not now it's done, and especially not once I box it all in.
@ that’s going nowhere. Looks tidy and factory too with that adapter plate.
Be interesting to see what you do with the exhaust without sacrificing ground clearance too much.
Look forward to the next one!
Top job Dan this is gonna be some
Exciting finished project
😊
Thank you 🙂
Nice work Daniel 👍🏻
Thank you 👍🏻 😊
Looks great, wish my diff was that easy to take out :D Have a good crimbo break mate
Thanks mate, if you had a nova it would be 🙂 and to you and your family
Nice project mate 😊 I would say though that the rear diff mount should sit down upon something inside of being upside, as you have it now. Just cos you're relying on the threads of those two bolts to take all the stress instead of a lower brace that takes the strain and the bolts are just a method to locate the mount. Just a thought 😉
Thank you, I plan to make some sort of lower brace, that way if it did ever fail it would just drop on that. But it should be fine. Thanks
Awesome work dude.
Thank you so much 😊
Great progress Dan. Awesome mate
Thank you 🙂
Incredible, fab job. 👌🏻
Thanks 🙂
Nice work
Thank you
Nice work. I definitely agree getting it on a rollover jig, nothing worse than welding upside down.
Thanks 😊. No, it is awful!
It's been a long time since I did an abrasive wheels course but I'm pretty sure it's that normal metal cutting disks contain aluminium dust or something like that, so it's not the angle grinding that's the issue, you just need a specific disk for aluminium.
Handy to know. I am yet to have one break, but I am always careful. Try not to get too much heat into them
Mega fabrication going in to this now... challenges at every point but you are moving forward 😁👍
Thanks mate, I am loving it.
You don’t need to fill the box with Power steering fluid, just cut the inlet port off flush and fill the hole with chemical metal. That’s all I did with my Locked boxes. Hopefully it’s a locked box with adapter rings rather than just stuffing a couple more clutch plates in there to lock it up.
Perfect, thank you
@ cavalier or Calibra turbos were all I worked on for long time. Hopefully your going to pull the T-box apart and check it through. They are fairly sturdy if set up right and paired with a Quaife ATB to take the strain off of the T-Box the better.
@sonnycoton7483 I will strip it yeah, how do you fit an ATB, the diffs are different? I have an ATB and it isn't the same. Also how does it take the strain off. It drives off the final drive so it shouldn't make a difference surely?
@ they did a 4x4 ATB for the f20/f28 box. It takes the strain off as with a open front diff all the torque will go through the TXB if one front wheel looses traction, I’ve blown a few boxes up until I put a ATB in the front. They’re getting rare now. Lol
@sonnycoton7483 okay, I never knew that. Thanks