Nice job Tad. I actually did the same thing but was on Colman mobile home furnace almost 1 year old, the same issue propane low pressure, it didn't have pressure regulator for gas valve to shut off the valve. Good job
Great video. I’ve been to the American standard train factory in Trenton where they make those. I have the same furnace in my home but on natural gas. Excellent furnace thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the demonstration and education. I’m curious as to why you chose this method of cleaning the heat exchanger vs using a soot removal product like the one that they sell at RE Michel? Great content it’s always appreciated.
I'm trying to figure out what's going on with my Heil NULK100DH06 furnace, running on propane. I'm certainly guilty of letting the buried 500 gallon propane tank go down to almost empty, more than once. I had no idea this was a problem in any way - I thought the liquid propane turns to a vapor and travels to the furnace as relatively clean gas! Anyway, for at least 3 winters now already, if you turn this furnace on when the house is, say, at 55, it takes FOREVER to get up to 72. Basically what seems to happen is the high limit switch gets too hot after a couple of minutes, and it shuts the furnace off. Then it starts again a couple minutes later. And it cycles like this, on and off, on and off, until eventually it gets up to 72. Takes a long time! That upper area in there feels hot to the touch when the high limit shuts it off. So does that mean the heat exchanger is overheating or something?? I am not seeing any flame rolling out or anything like that. The inducer motor is connected to a 2 inch PVC pipe that goes vertically, inside the 2 x 4 wall, way up and out of the side of the house. Fresh air is taken from the ambient air around the furnace, not from outside. The old AC evaporator coil is still in there, but hasn't been used in years. The blower is permanently on the black wire, so it's blowing good air through there. So what is causing it to act this way? Could it be a clogged heat exchanger? Or am I missing something? I would be okay with replacing the furnace if I can't figure out how to fix it. I have an account with REMICHEL. I am in eastern PA. Since the 2 inch PVC pipe runs inside the 2 x 4 wall, I would prefer to continue to use it, rather than figuring out how to run a 3 inch PVC pipe. If I must, I could, I guess, remove a basement window, build something out of plywood where the window was, and run a 3 inch pipe horizontally under the deck outside. But it certainly would be easier to continue to use the existing 2 inch exhaust pipe. So can anyone recommend a furnace model from REMICHEL that would allow that? I don't even know, is mine considered a 90% efficiency or what? It says model NULK100DH06 867.779435. It says 100k input rating BTU/Hr and 80k Alternate input BTU/HR. What's the difference between those two anyway? I'm debating whether to try to get central air working again or just keep using window units, as I have been. Or maybe even get some mini splits. It would be easiest to do central, but I don't have any refrigerant experience. I could get a set of gauges and a vacuum pump and spend days and days on UA-cam, I suppose. I want to do it myself, as these companies quote like 12k or more for these types of furnace replacement jobs. It's crazy pricing, I can get a furnace for around 1k from REMICHEL! If I can fix the existing one I'd be happy. Hey it still "sort of" works, has been, for a long time, but somehow I have a feeling it's not supposed to cycle like that :) Would appreciate any ideas or comments. Thanks!
Shouldn't let your tank go below 40%. Might not be a bad issues at 40% but most people on LP also have a lp gas stove, LP fireplace, LP water heater, and rarely a LP dryer. If you have a couple appliances on LP going below 40% can cause issues.
Hello Mr Teddy kbm mechanical services from MD. I appreciate you sir all tech training I had send over to custom to explain what I need to do ,they cost for reason price for the job or option replace furnace unit 20yr old most company just replace unit
gas burns at 3.5 and propane at 10 in wc.
yes sir
seal heating gaskets w rtv red silicone.
Nice job Tad. I actually did the same thing but was on Colman mobile home furnace almost 1 year old, the same issue propane low pressure, it didn't have pressure regulator for gas valve to shut off the valve. Good job
Great video. I’ve been to the American standard train factory in Trenton where they make those. I have the same furnace in my home but on natural gas. Excellent furnace thank you for sharing.
Very cool!
heat exchangers get clogged w sut, like an air filter must b cleaned or replaced.
Question?
Wouldn't a clogged heat exchanger cause the high limit to trip?
What if it was natural gas ? Same concept with pressure ?
yes same
@@TaddyDigest it could also be a bad combustion air intake. Or plugged intake or insufficient.
Thanks for the demonstration and education. I’m curious as to why you chose this method of cleaning the heat exchanger vs using a soot removal product like the one that they sell at RE Michel? Great content it’s always appreciated.
This is the first time i've heard about another product
I will check it out
I'm trying to figure out what's going on with my Heil NULK100DH06 furnace, running on propane. I'm certainly guilty of letting the buried 500 gallon propane tank go down to almost empty, more than once. I had no idea this was a problem in any way - I thought the liquid propane turns to a vapor and travels to the furnace as relatively clean gas!
Anyway, for at least 3 winters now already, if you turn this furnace on when the house is, say, at 55, it takes FOREVER to get up to 72. Basically what seems to happen is the high limit switch gets too hot after a couple of minutes, and it shuts the furnace off. Then it starts again a couple minutes later. And it cycles like this, on and off, on and off, until eventually it gets up to 72. Takes a long time!
That upper area in there feels hot to the touch when the high limit shuts it off. So does that mean the heat exchanger is overheating or something??
I am not seeing any flame rolling out or anything like that. The inducer motor is connected to a 2 inch PVC pipe that goes vertically, inside the 2 x 4 wall, way up and out of the side of the house. Fresh air is taken from the ambient air around the furnace, not from outside.
The old AC evaporator coil is still in there, but hasn't been used in years.
The blower is permanently on the black wire, so it's blowing good air through there. So what is causing it to act this way? Could it be a clogged heat exchanger? Or am I missing something?
I would be okay with replacing the furnace if I can't figure out how to fix it. I have an account with REMICHEL. I am in eastern PA. Since the 2 inch PVC pipe runs inside the 2 x 4 wall, I would prefer to continue to use it, rather than figuring out how to run a 3 inch PVC pipe. If I must, I could, I guess, remove a basement window, build something out of plywood where the window was, and run a 3 inch pipe horizontally under the deck outside. But it certainly would be easier to continue to use the existing 2 inch exhaust pipe. So can anyone recommend a furnace model from REMICHEL that would allow that?
I don't even know, is mine considered a 90% efficiency or what? It says model NULK100DH06 867.779435. It says 100k input rating BTU/Hr and 80k Alternate input BTU/HR. What's the difference between those two anyway?
I'm debating whether to try to get central air working again or just keep using window units, as I have been. Or maybe even get some mini splits. It would be easiest to do central, but I don't have any refrigerant experience. I could get a set of gauges and a vacuum pump and spend days and days on UA-cam, I suppose. I want to do it myself, as these companies quote like 12k or more for these types of furnace replacement jobs. It's crazy pricing, I can get a furnace for around 1k from REMICHEL!
If I can fix the existing one I'd be happy. Hey it still "sort of" works, has been, for a long time, but somehow I have a feeling it's not supposed to cycle like that :)
Would appreciate any ideas or comments. Thanks!
How low does the pressure need to be on the tank for this to take place
Shouldn't let your tank go below 40%. Might not be a bad issues at 40% but most people on LP also have a lp gas stove, LP fireplace, LP water heater, and rarely a LP dryer. If you have a couple appliances on LP going below 40% can cause issues.
Does this get it clean enough inside the heat exchanger to run full efficiency again or would it be best to bite the bullet and buy a new one?
I would definitely buy a new one if you can.
It just saves you time and work.
Heat exchangers there are 90% are tough to get cleaned compared to just 80%
Long island New York also uses gas tanks is probably common around here to get soot inside the heat exchanger thanks for the good stuff.
Thanks for the info You are awesome my friend
Hello Mr Teddy kbm mechanical services from MD. I appreciate you sir all tech training I had send over to custom to explain what I need to do ,they cost for reason price for the job or option replace furnace unit 20yr old most company just replace unit
Why clean it ? Just replace it.
Most of the time that is the best best method Definitely saves you from a lot of extra work and headache sometimes
@@TaddyDigest I'm just saying I've never seen a clogged heat exchanger that wasn't cracked..