If/Whenever LEGO gets their shit together and revive Bionicle, they should just hire you to make lego designs for them because these are top notch MOCs.
You know who is samazing ? Bionicle fans You know who is even more amazing ? Bionicle fans who share their MOCs And you know who is even MORE amazing ? Bionicle fans who share their MOC's instructions You are amazing
Unfortunately that’s it for Mahri revamps for me I’m afraid. I only made Hahli because I wanted to see her alongside my Takanuva and Jaller mocs. I’m not all that interested in the other Mahri.
I wanna ask where did you get that friction joint in lime green? Also, are those joints real or made by a third party because I know that those pieces are pretty brittle.
Thanks! Months on and off, though that can sound a bit misleading. Building mocs for me is rarely a continuous process, it's more like some large chunk of the build might come together in a few days, then over the course of several weeks I'll keep modifying it and tweaking it while other segments come together at random spurts of inspiration. And then by the end of it, I have a full moc I'm happy to show other people. The background music is a remix of an old dkc3 track I just looped. Look up "Intoxica" by Radiowar.
This is a beautiful moc! I will need to try this build, even if it's not for Hahli. Oh, and I'm gonna need to see some videos of Takanuva and Jaller my dude.
Yes, at some point. I’d like to upload studio files for a lot of my old mocs including those two, and I’ll be leaving a video here as well about it to let everyone know. But not right now.
Awesome as always, my man. Quick question though. It looks like your ccbs joints are black on one end, did you do that? Does that increase friction or something?
Paint. Those are originally black limb pieces painted lime green. But I cover the insides of sockets to ensure paint doesn’t get inside actual joints or major points of contact.
I'm glad you think so! There's a lot I could say on that, too much for one youtube comment. But first off, I use spray paint specifically not hand paint. It's just a more consistent finish when done right. Second, whichever side to a piece is facing the exterior is the part that's painted last so that it never makes contact with a surface while drying. And third, basically follow good spray painting practices to avoid any globs or unevenness.
Another great build well done. One question did you get your hands manicured? I only ask cause they look better than mine lol. Again great work on the revamp moc the build actually really suits Hahli Mahri
I don’t have one now, but at a future date I’m looking to release studio files for a bunch of mocs of mine including Hahli and that would make for a de facto parts list.
@@cray1243More than needed probably. I painted some parts that already come in colors I need but just didn't have. If you're asking how many parts MUST be painted differently, I'm not sure off the top of my head.
Oh dang this build has at least *204* parts! Ok but seriously tho this build is amazing and also really tall I counted it is 34 pins tall(I am pretty sure) :D Edit: Btw the tallest moc I have right now is only 30 pins
Thanks! I don’t know about the parts amount, but I can tell you that the height is shorter than that. Total the moc is exactly 29 units from the bottom to the head, minus the mask. With the mask, it’s basically 30 units tall. If you’re counting based on the video, what may have happened is heights for individual body parts were added together but without subtracting for overlap, i.e. whenever ball and sockets connect vertically. 30 is about the scale I build all of my Toa. 34, 35 is what I tend to build “titan” races like my vortixx mocs at.
I wouldn’t worry about it. I don’t have any plans on entering the remaining contests. Artakha was really a one off; i fell in love with this concept of Artakha as a Creator deity-like figure that I absolutely had to realize as a moc. But none of the other names on the roster inspire anything close to that same level of passion for me. So that’s probably it.
@@SFtheGreat Yeah I got that ;D About the flex tube, you might get away with a 3L bar instead. Push it as far forward as possible. It will probably still stick out a half length at the back but it will be obscured slightly by the triangular technic piece at the end.
@@sheev2829 Now that’s a whole other conversation lol. To be clear, first of all I’m referring to spraypaint. Every painted piece on my mocs is spraypainted, not hand painted. Hand painting is too uneven texturewise, even the best applications I’ve seen. Beyond that, I guess there are some general tricks I’ve accumulated by trial and error to try and make the paint application as smooth as possible.
@@sheev2829 Hmm. I hope it’s not patronizing to say that adhering to some of the basics goes a long way - spraying at the proper distance, never holding the spray down too long in one place, etc. For most pieces, especially the very small ones like horns or system pieces, I’ll put them down on a reversed strip of masking tape to prevent them from blowing around when sprayed. Most pieces I assume you’ll flip over to get all of it; for me, I spray the back first and front last, i.e. whichever side is the actual surface of the piece that will be shown on the moc is sprayed last so as to never make contact with ground while still not fully dried. The side that does can sometimes stick when dried, leaving a mark. Colors difference sometimes lead to poor application. Spraying a light colored piece to dark is easy, but sometimes spraying dark to light doesn’t fully cover it and makes it tempting to overpaint to the point where it’s dripping. For that, for example painting in light green or yellow or straight white, I’ll always apply a primer first. Makes it way more consistent.
Gracias amigo~ Honestly, I wish I had the time to make instructions videos for all of my mocs. Funny enough, I actually understood what you wrote in Spanish just fine so no worries 👌🏻
I knew something was sus when he pulled all these parts in colors ive never seen before, but when he pulled out the vahki torso thats when it was confirmed he painted them
@@wholesomegadunka2811 the ends of pins split into two sides with a little groove in the middle, I get unreasonably angry when the grooves in pins close to each other don't face the same direction (not build breaking)
Dude I love you
Edit: That first step. Everyone on Spherus Magna felt the anxiety on that.
But it came out as gray joints recolored to lime. We could hear many bionicle Keeleraks crying out in relief
Hahli's claw here just puts emphasis on how much of a more vicious toa of water she is compared to her sisters Nokama and Gali.
If/Whenever LEGO gets their shit together and revive Bionicle, they should just hire you to make lego designs for them because these are top notch MOCs.
Lol thanks my dude.
It's so beautiful I'm crying
I appreciate that Wombat~
The best girl looking how she should have been in a set
Thank you dude, you are really talented
You know who is samazing ?
Bionicle fans
You know who is even more amazing ?
Bionicle fans who share their MOCs
And you know who is even MORE amazing ?
Bionicle fans who share their MOC's instructions
You are amazing
My man 👊🏻
Shes beautiful. Simple, pretty and with style. I only can just imagine how much joy i would have to toying with it
Nice hands! finally found a 3 finger design that doesn't require glue. Thanks so much!
busty Hahli looks great
I definitely need the parts list and the instructions. Your work is AMAZING!!!
I was already impressed but then you added Takanuva and Jaller at the end and I lost my Krana
Love this design for her i am saving this for my list to make awesome mocs thank you.
this is an amazing revamp! With Jaller there as well, I hope that means there are more Mahri revamps you have!
Unfortunately that’s it for Mahri revamps for me I’m afraid. I only made Hahli because I wanted to see her alongside my Takanuva and Jaller mocs. I’m not all that interested in the other Mahri.
@@wholesomegadunka2811 that's too bad, at least you got my two favs of the Mahri
Great revamp your MOCs are incredible!
Did you ever make a parts list? And it looks like you painted a few pieces, what did you use?
Call me William Afton...
YESSS another video!
Man, this build is amazing
You gotta post more bruh. Your mocs are insane.
Wait where'd you get that lime friction extender and vahki waist?
Amazing build, what paint did you use on some of the parts? I know several of these parts weren't made in dark blue or lime green.
I wanna ask where did you get that friction joint in lime green? Also, are those joints real or made by a third party because I know that those pieces are pretty brittle.
Great Moc! How long did this originally take you to build?
Also, what is the name of the song you used for this?
Thanks! Months on and off, though that can sound a bit misleading. Building mocs for me is rarely a continuous process, it's more like some large chunk of the build might come together in a few days, then over the course of several weeks I'll keep modifying it and tweaking it while other segments come together at random spurts of inspiration. And then by the end of it, I have a full moc I'm happy to show other people.
The background music is a remix of an old dkc3 track I just looped. Look up "Intoxica" by Radiowar.
This is a beautiful moc! I will need to try this build, even if it's not for Hahli.
Oh, and I'm gonna need to see some videos of Takanuva and Jaller my dude.
Thanks. Jaller and Takanuva I doubt I’ll be making videos for but I might release studio files in the future.
That's a sick tevamp and all, BUT TAKANUVA WITH WIIIINGGSSSS
I really love all your MOCs, kinda reminds me of the movie designs. Do you plan on releasing Studio files and/or guides for Jaller and Takanuva?
Yes, at some point. I’d like to upload studio files for a lot of my old mocs including those two, and I’ll be leaving a video here as well about it to let everyone know. But not right now.
@@wholesomegadunka2811 Nice! Thanks for the reply!
How did you get that CCBS friction extender in lime green? I thought they only came in dark gray
They probably do; mine is painted.
Yo! She looks so cool!
Awesome as always, my man. Quick question though. It looks like your ccbs joints are black on one end, did you do that? Does that increase friction or something?
Paint. Those are originally black limb pieces painted lime green. But I cover the insides of sockets to ensure paint doesn’t get inside actual joints or major points of contact.
@@wholesomegadunka2811 gotcha. That makes sense. I couldn’t figure out how you could paint joints without it wearing off immediately.
That's a lot of paint. Even flat silver parts are painted in shiny silver.
Everything is paint.
what kind of paint did you use for the pieces that don't come in those colors?
Rustoleum spray paint, the 2x line that includes primer built in.
Aaaa esto es sumamente geniaaal, que increíble trabajo 😎
How did you get the paint to look so clean on all the pieces? It legit took me a while to realize most of those pieces ate painted
I'm glad you think so! There's a lot I could say on that, too much for one youtube comment. But first off, I use spray paint specifically not hand paint. It's just a more consistent finish when done right. Second, whichever side to a piece is facing the exterior is the part that's painted last so that it never makes contact with a surface while drying. And third, basically follow good spray painting practices to avoid any globs or unevenness.
Are those recolored parts painted or 3d printed? Either way, I want some
paint
I’m happy you exist
Right back at you~
I know people are gonna say
Uhhhhh but is a Lego
Idgaf
SMASH
Eh we don't judge here. Well I don't lol.
@@wholesomegadunka2811hahli best girl
Wooooow, that's amazing
Greeds from Germany
Greetings from the US friend!
@@wholesomegadunka2811 :D
song name?
Another great build well done. One question did you get your hands manicured? I only ask cause they look better than mine lol.
Again great work on the revamp moc the build actually really suits Hahli Mahri
Wut? No I didn’t get a manicure lol.
This is amazing!
Do you have a parts list so I can have one as well?
I don’t have one now, but at a future date I’m looking to release studio files for a bunch of mocs of mine including Hahli and that would make for a de facto parts list.
@@wholesomegadunka2811 I can't wait! I've been going on a bionicle craze after getting makuta icrax recently
@@xenomorph6185 Well welcome back~
@@wholesomegadunka2811 thanks! I forgot how much fun bionicles were and their limitless creativity
What is the piece number for the lower torso/hip?
It's just a generic vahki hip, but painted. Part 47330.
@wholesomegadunka2811 thanks i appreciate it
@@wholesomegadunka2811roughly what percentage of parts in this moc were painted?
@@cray1243More than needed probably. I painted some parts that already come in colors I need but just didn't have. If you're asking how many parts MUST be painted differently, I'm not sure off the top of my head.
This is sexy, I'ma buuuussst!
Lol gtfo here Djura.
Oh dang this build has at least *204* parts!
Ok but seriously tho this build is amazing and also really tall I counted it is 34 pins tall(I am pretty sure) :D
Edit: Btw the tallest moc I have right now is only 30 pins
Thanks! I don’t know about the parts amount, but I can tell you that the height is shorter than that. Total the moc is exactly 29 units from the bottom to the head, minus the mask. With the mask, it’s basically 30 units tall. If you’re counting based on the video, what may have happened is heights for individual body parts were added together but without subtracting for overlap, i.e. whenever ball and sockets connect vertically. 30 is about the scale I build all of my Toa. 34, 35 is what I tend to build “titan” races like my vortixx mocs at.
Damn, now I fear to compete with you on the upcoming contests.
I wouldn’t worry about it. I don’t have any plans on entering the remaining contests. Artakha was really a one off; i fell in love with this concept of Artakha as a Creator deity-like figure that I absolutely had to realize as a moc. But none of the other names on the roster inspire anything close to that same level of passion for me. So that’s probably it.
@@wholesomegadunka2811 Thanks for the information. I was more appreciating your skills that being genuinely afraid of the competition.
@@wholesomegadunka2811 Anything official to substitute the cut flextube?
@@SFtheGreat Yeah I got that ;D
About the flex tube, you might get away with a 3L bar instead. Push it as far forward as possible. It will probably still stick out a half length at the back but it will be obscured slightly by the triangular technic piece at the end.
@@wholesomegadunka2811 I'll try to studio that and test some alternatives.
Matoro next?
What paints did you use on the peices it looks so good
Rustoleum, Key Lime and Deep Blue. Silver can be any of their metallic line.
@@wholesomegadunka2811 how did you apply it so well?
@@sheev2829 Now that’s a whole other conversation lol. To be clear, first of all I’m referring to spraypaint. Every painted piece on my mocs is spraypainted, not hand painted. Hand painting is too uneven texturewise, even the best applications I’ve seen. Beyond that, I guess there are some general tricks I’ve accumulated by trial and error to try and make the paint application as smooth as possible.
@@wholesomegadunka2811 yes it makes sense not to hand paint them. I once experimented with spraypainting peices but they never turned out very good
@@sheev2829 Hmm. I hope it’s not patronizing to say that adhering to some of the basics goes a long way - spraying at the proper distance, never holding the spray down too long in one place, etc. For most pieces, especially the very small ones like horns or system pieces, I’ll put them down on a reversed strip of masking tape to prevent them from blowing around when sprayed. Most pieces I assume you’ll flip over to get all of it; for me, I spray the back first and front last, i.e. whichever side is the actual surface of the piece that will be shown on the moc is sprayed last so as to never make contact with ground while still not fully dried. The side that does can sometimes stick when dried, leaving a mark. Colors difference sometimes lead to poor application. Spraying a light colored piece to dark is easy, but sometimes spraying dark to light doesn’t fully cover it and makes it tempting to overpaint to the point where it’s dripping. For that, for example painting in light green or yellow or straight white, I’ll always apply a primer first. Makes it way more consistent.
Great revamp
Bro adoro tu trabajo, disculpa el texto en español pero soy muy malo para escribir en inglés
Gracias amigo~ Honestly, I wish I had the time to make instructions videos for all of my mocs.
Funny enough, I actually understood what you wrote in Spanish just fine so no worries 👌🏻
@@wholesomegadunka2811 sería genial, estaré atento al canal. Mucho éxito saludos!! 😁😁😁
LEGO ?!
Smash!!!!
I knew something was sus when he pulled all these parts in colors ive never seen before, but when he pulled out the vahki torso thats when it was confirmed he painted them
Smash
Please remember to line up your pins, otherwise a certified masterpiece
Line up…? Don’t quite understand.
@@wholesomegadunka2811 align their ends so they face the same way
@@Chokun-Gaming Im still not getting your meaning. When are they not “facing the same way”? I assume it’s not something build breaking
@@wholesomegadunka2811 the ends of pins split into two sides with a little groove in the middle, I get unreasonably angry when the grooves in pins close to each other don't face the same direction (not build breaking)
@@Chokun-Gaming Oh that’s what you meant? Damn 🤣.
Can you do a nuparu versión as a engineer toa
Ah I don’t know if I’ll get around to it, but it would be cool. I did like Nuparu Mahri a lot.