What you have so lovingly resurrected is an absolutely beautiful motorcycle. I owned a R100RS in smoke grey for quite a few years, and now am riding a mint condition 1999 R1100S with only 25K on it. Rode it about 50 miles this morning. Thank you for taking the time to document and narrate your work. One of the most classic motorcycles ever built.
That was a fascinating watch...I admire you for bringing one of these beautiful machines back to life. I bought one in 1981 and the 3 and a half grand you've spent was roughly what they cost back then! I really wish I had kept it now to hand over to my son. Best wishes...
Great video. The RS is a great touring machine and yes they tend to grow on you. If you don't like the bars, K75S bars will fit and give you more comfort. I went cross the US on my RS years ago. 3000 miles in 4.5 long days. The engine ran 14 hours a day at close to 5000 RPM without a hitch.
Beautiful job on your Dad’s bummer Tim - congratulations! I’ve wanted an R100RS since I was a kid. Everyone else at Engineerïng school had posters of Farrah Fawcett on their ceiling - but I had a poster of an R100RS on mine. I guess I’m on the hunt for one - inspired by your video! Pete
Very kinds words, thanks for the comment. Just watched your video on the BMW Polaris, never seen the knee guards before and it was nice to hear it running, sounds a little like mine.
i did exactly the same than you on my 98's R850 Cruiser, completely rebuild and learn how to enjoy it. Now i dont lose any opportunities to ride it (with my r100/7 also)
I struggled with the low handlebars on mine so raised them an inch. Lots to say about these bikes but having ridden to John O'Groats via the Lake District in 1992 with lots of rain along the way it has to this day one of the best fairings of any bike for riding in all weathers at above legal speeds for as long as you like. Happy days they were
Superb job! Just given my R100RS a paint job and turned her into an S, although my paint finish is a long way short of yours. As you say, they've got character, I wouldn't trade mine for anything
Pureblood, help stop it going chalky, every now and then use "00000 Fine Grade" wire wool (that's super soft, its that good I use it with autosol on my 50yr old triumphs) or get some green scotch brite from the local corner shop, use with wd40 keeps it a treat, I've had 3 be-ems am currently on an R75/7 for last 20yrs, mint 120kmls+ clocked up, you want that clean alloy look but not over the top m8
Great job Tim! Fantastic you put your Dad's bike back on the road... I can imagine the pride and emotion you both felt. Great story and good on you! Now for the other classic, the Kawasaki 🙂
Great video. I'm trying to get my 1980 back on the road as well. What battery did you use? I'm just wondering if an AGM 20AH would be ok? The original lead acid battery is huge and the frame always need splitting when you take it out.
Here's the link to the one I used, it just about fits but is quite tall and means the tool box doesn't fit but is a good battery, has pos/neg terminals which is handy for accessories. www.motorworks.co.uk/battery-ela59647-2.html
What Product did you use on the Aluminium Crankcase Ect? They came Up like New! I was thinking if Bead Blasting, but if I could get the Same Results as you, Id be more than Happy to Follow your Leed! -Cheers👍🇦🇺😉
Hi Carlos, I made a promise to myself that if anyone asked this question I'd be honest though I deliberately left it out of the video because I knew it would split the room. I didn't want to strip the engine down too much so Bead Blasting was outof the question. I started with wire brushes (drill bit type) and used white spirit and Gunk. This didn't do a bad job but nooks and crannies like the fins still looked a mess. I did try an acid which didn't help much so ended settled for heat resistant engine paint. I know this goes against the grain for some but the result is so good no one who's seen the bike in the flesh has noticed. It also protects against oxidisation in the future.
@@Tim0Photo Cheers Tim, It Seemed there was a Bit of Magic at Play!! 🎩🐇 I think I might do the Same!! I understand the 'Puretains' Would Scoff @ the Idea, but there Usually All Talk- No Action!!😉 The Results Speak for themselves!! Even with Bead Blasting the Finish Won't Last Long!! & Will Eventually Go 'Chalky' like it was when you Started the Rebuild! Possibly It Could be Blasted & Clear Coated, but that's a Gamble, that it Doesn't start to Yellow with Age & Heat!! I think you got the Right Silver, is Silver or Aluminium Pressure Pack Engine Enamel? Or Some Special Cocktail applied with a Spray Gun! Thanks for the Info, & Much Respect for the Resto! Its a Real Gem!! -Cheers👍🇦🇺👍
Thanks John. The bike is ready for its MOT and I'm itching to get it on the road though there's a slight knocking from the left cylinder which is irritating me. Not an MOT failure, just want to present the bike in purring condition so I'll do an update video once its on the road and running sweet. Thanks again.
Tim, I look forward to an updated video. I'm doing a 'long term, pocket-money' rebuild on a 1988 BMW R100RS and find your video inspirational to get me off my backside and back into the project - www.flickr.com/photos/russkophile/albums/72157680937839475 Also a bit of a website where I've been playing around with html - members.iinet.net.au/~jd343/justwins/index.html
Hi Tim fantastic turnaround .I am a newbie to this. I have a r100rt can you recommend any simple Bmw diy books or websites, not sure which resources would help me I am a Welder but have little mechanical knowledge unfortunately cheers. Richard.
Richard, I recommend getting hold of the Clymer workshop manual, far superior to a Haynes and easier to understand than the manufacturers. I found UA-cam a brilliants resource especially these guys: Brookes Airhead Garage ua-cam.com/channels/QzNs09m3GMIJmFTBFEeM6w.html Bodhi Bike Shop ua-cam.com/channels/N5C_hQx8B5BIwx2huBc-8w.html Chris Harris ua-cam.com/users/BavarianBomberWrench Brookes has a decent web site and is currently restoring an RS, sending out regular emails with his progress. What this guy doesn’t know isn’t worth knowing. brook.reams.me/ I had very little experience when I first started and the above really helped. Good luck.
Really glad you like the video and sorry its taken so long to reply. Initially I had my Dad’s old Haynes workshop manual but this was lacking in some places so invested in the Clymer workshop manual which covers a complete strip down and rebuild along with most variants and updates of this particular boxer. I’ve added a couple of really useful UA-cam channels to visit along with the place I sourced most of the parts (new and second hand). Finally the link to the BMW club because once a member you can hire and borrow tools from other members and use their wealth of knowledge to get answers to pretty much any problems you have. They’re also a friendly bunch. Wishing you success. ua-cam.com/channels/QzNs09m3GMIJmFTBFEeM6w.html ua-cam.com/users/BavarianBomberWrench www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=2&NU=15&M=20 www.thebmwclub.org.uk
@@Tim0Photo Thank you very much Tim. No main dealers near me and no body to call upon who fixes these bikes in my area. The one that is 18 miles away ,is awkward to get to from where I live so hopefully can do as much diy supplemented with your resources.
![[A's BMW vol.1] Engine removal BMW R100RS エンジン分解と降ろし作業 [ASMR]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/X2jVdYkreyU/mqdefault.jpg)
What you have so lovingly resurrected is an absolutely beautiful motorcycle. I owned a R100RS in smoke grey for quite a few years, and now am riding a mint condition 1999 R1100S with only 25K on it. Rode it about 50 miles this morning. Thank you for taking the time to document and narrate your work. One of the most classic motorcycles ever built.
That was a fascinating watch...I admire you for bringing one of these beautiful machines back to life. I bought one in 1981 and the 3 and a half grand you've spent was roughly what they cost back then! I really wish I had kept it now to hand over to my son. Best wishes...
Great video. The RS is a great touring machine and yes they tend to grow on you. If you don't like the bars, K75S bars will fit and give you more comfort. I went cross the US on my RS years ago. 3000 miles in 4.5 long days. The engine ran 14 hours a day at close to 5000 RPM without a hitch.
Thanks for the comment David, t reassuring to hear what a work horse this bike is. I may very well take your advice on the bars. Thanks again.
I honestly tip my hat to you, this was a nice restoration job.
Beautiful job on your Dad’s bummer Tim - congratulations!
I’ve wanted an R100RS since I was a kid. Everyone else at Engineerïng school had posters of Farrah Fawcett on their ceiling - but I had a poster of an R100RS on mine. I guess I’m on the hunt for one - inspired by your video!
Pete
My 82 has the hazard light switch whick breaks easy. Great job your way beyond most beginners shop wise!
Very kinds words, thanks for the comment. Just watched your video on the BMW Polaris, never seen the knee guards before and it was nice to hear it running, sounds a little like mine.
Brilliant Brilliant work Tim
magnificent job!
Inspiring stuff Tim. Thanks, enjoy your videos
Great job !! and you've done it , not like going and buy it finished, I did the same with two honda cx500 and enjoyed it a lot , thanks. Gus
Really nice job, I enojyed the video very much.
i did exactly the same than you on my 98's R850 Cruiser, completely rebuild and learn how to enjoy it. Now i dont lose any opportunities to ride it (with my r100/7 also)
I struggled with the low handlebars on mine so raised them an inch. Lots to say about these bikes but having ridden to John O'Groats via the Lake District in 1992 with lots of rain along the way it has to this day one of the best fairings of any bike for riding in all weathers at above legal speeds for as long as you like. Happy days they were
Superb job! Just given my R100RS a paint job and turned her into an S, although my paint finish is a long way short of yours. As you say, they've got character, I wouldn't trade mine for anything
Pureblood, help stop it going chalky, every now and then use "00000 Fine Grade" wire wool (that's super soft, its that good I use it with autosol on my 50yr old triumphs) or get some green scotch brite from the local corner shop, use with wd40 keeps it a treat, I've had 3 be-ems am currently on an R75/7 for last 20yrs, mint 120kmls+ clocked up, you want that clean alloy look but not over the top m8
Great job Tim! Fantastic you put your Dad's bike back on the road... I can imagine the pride and emotion you both felt. Great story and good on you! Now for the other classic, the Kawasaki 🙂
Great story, tough old bikes these BMW'S
Great video, thanks for sharing. Cheers
I've got a BMW r750/6- I've always thought a 650 Versys would be a Great Addition to the Stable!! - Great Resto -Cheers 👍😉🇦🇺
Well done, Always enjoy your video's,Looking forward to your 2019 adventure
well done!
N.1👍
Great video. I'm trying to get my 1980 back on the road as well. What battery did you use? I'm just wondering if an AGM 20AH would be ok? The original lead acid battery is huge and the frame always need splitting when you take it out.
Here's the link to the one I used, it just about fits but is quite tall and means the tool box doesn't fit but is a good battery, has pos/neg terminals which is handy for accessories. www.motorworks.co.uk/battery-ela59647-2.html
@@Tim0Photo Many thanks
What Product did you use on the Aluminium Crankcase Ect? They came Up like New! I was thinking if Bead Blasting, but if I could get the Same Results as you, Id be more than Happy to Follow your Leed! -Cheers👍🇦🇺😉
Hi Carlos, I made a promise to myself that if anyone asked this question I'd be honest though I deliberately left it out of the video because I knew it would split the room. I didn't want to strip the engine down too much so Bead Blasting was outof the question. I started with wire brushes (drill bit type) and used white spirit and Gunk. This didn't do a bad job but nooks and crannies like the fins still looked a mess. I did try an acid which didn't help much so ended settled for heat resistant engine paint. I know this goes against the grain for some but the result is so good no one who's seen the bike in the flesh has noticed. It also protects against oxidisation in the future.
@@Tim0Photo Cheers Tim, It Seemed there was a Bit of Magic at Play!! 🎩🐇
I think I might do the Same!! I understand the 'Puretains' Would Scoff @ the Idea, but there Usually All Talk- No Action!!😉 The Results Speak for themselves!! Even with Bead Blasting the Finish Won't Last Long!! & Will Eventually Go 'Chalky' like it was when you Started the Rebuild! Possibly It Could be Blasted & Clear Coated, but that's a Gamble, that it Doesn't start to Yellow with Age & Heat!! I think you got the Right Silver, is Silver or Aluminium Pressure Pack Engine Enamel? Or Some Special Cocktail applied with a Spray Gun! Thanks for the Info, & Much Respect for the Resto! Its a Real Gem!! -Cheers👍🇦🇺👍
Top video Tim, I enjoyed it very much. Good effort for your very first motorcycle restoration.
Thanks John. The bike is ready for its MOT and I'm itching to get it on the road though there's a slight knocking from the left cylinder which is irritating me. Not an MOT failure, just want to present the bike in purring condition so I'll do an update video once its on the road and running sweet. Thanks again.
Tim, I look forward to an updated video. I'm doing a 'long term, pocket-money' rebuild on a 1988 BMW R100RS and find your video inspirational to get me off my backside and back into the project - www.flickr.com/photos/russkophile/albums/72157680937839475
Also a bit of a website where I've been playing around with html - members.iinet.net.au/~jd343/justwins/index.html
Brilliant
Brilliant video mate, I would love to do up an r100 one day
What a great job you've done there 👏 well done
Hi Tim fantastic turnaround .I am a newbie to this. I have a r100rt can you recommend any simple Bmw diy books or websites, not sure which resources would help me I am a Welder but have little mechanical knowledge unfortunately cheers. Richard.
Richard, I recommend getting hold of the Clymer workshop manual, far superior to a Haynes and easier to understand than the manufacturers. I found UA-cam a brilliants resource especially these guys:
Brookes Airhead Garage
ua-cam.com/channels/QzNs09m3GMIJmFTBFEeM6w.html
Bodhi Bike Shop
ua-cam.com/channels/N5C_hQx8B5BIwx2huBc-8w.html
Chris Harris
ua-cam.com/users/BavarianBomberWrench
Brookes has a decent web site and is currently restoring an RS, sending out regular emails with his progress. What this guy doesn’t know isn’t worth knowing. brook.reams.me/
I had very little experience when I first started and the above really helped. Good luck.
Really glad you like the video and sorry its taken so long to reply. Initially I had my Dad’s old Haynes workshop manual but this was lacking in some places so invested in the Clymer workshop manual which covers a complete strip down and rebuild along with most variants and updates of this particular boxer. I’ve added a couple of really useful UA-cam channels to visit along with the place I sourced most of the parts (new and second hand). Finally the link to the BMW club because once a member you can hire and borrow tools from other members and use their wealth of knowledge to get answers to pretty much any problems you have. They’re also a friendly bunch. Wishing you success.
ua-cam.com/channels/QzNs09m3GMIJmFTBFEeM6w.html
ua-cam.com/users/BavarianBomberWrench
www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=2&NU=15&M=20
www.thebmwclub.org.uk
@@Tim0Photo Thank you very much Tim. No main dealers near me and no body to call upon who fixes these bikes in my area. The one that is 18 miles away ,is awkward to get to from where I live so hopefully can do as much diy supplemented with your resources.
@@richardallan455 You're welcome, feel free to get in touch any time