How to install a MR Cool DIY mini split Air conditioner (step by step)
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- Опубліковано 31 лип 2024
- I install a DIY Mr cool 4th generation air conditioner AC in my garage. I go over step by step
Thank you very much for watching and God bless.
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0:00 intro, what comest with Mr cool
4:12 supplies That did not come with Mr Cool
5:09 Tools I used
7:20 start to install mounting plate
12:30 find studs install mounting plate
15:00 Drilling 3 1/2" hole
17:40 hang indoor unit Evaporator
20:00 outdoor unit condenser
20:40 drill hole through siding
23:24 start to connect and bend line set
33:17 release refrigerant check for leaks
35:25 condensate drain hose
36:13 Electrical
39:22 start Mr Cool
41:20sound deadening pads insulate
45:30 ending
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#installyourownminisplit. #mrcoolairconditioner. #DIYcentralair - Навчання та стиль
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Thank you very much for watching and God bless.
✅1800 BTU DIY Mr cool 3rd gen amzn.to/3KS209O
✅9000 BTU DIY Mr Cool 3rd gen
✅12000 BTU DIY Mr Cool 3rd gen. amzn.to/3TDa41U
✅24000 BTU DIY Mr Cool 3rd gen amzn.to/3epObDl
✅36000 BTU DIY Mr Cool 3rd gen. amzn.to/3cUQxtf
✅line set cover Mr Cool. amzn.to/3Bq3i8V
✅AC wall mounting bracket. amzn.to/3D0V0FE
✅10/2 wire amzn.to/3cQ8uJE
✅AC Disconnect (I bought at Lowes but this is similar) amzn.to/3KQM7A5
✅6 Ft Whip amzn.to/3CYyVY8
✅Drywall anchors amzn.to/3cJjI2F
✅Gorilla white tape amzn.to/3wYe6bI
✅ My T-shirts. Thank you for supporting my channel✅
diy-jim.creator-spring.com
5% off shirts use DIYJim2021 when checking out
✅GIFTS and THANK YOU✅
DIY Jim
PO Box #105
Hughesville Pa, 17737
0:00 intro, what comest with Mr cool
4:12 supplies That did not come with Mr Cool
5:09 Tools I used
7:20 start to install mounting plate
12:30 find studs install mounting plate
15:00 Drilling 3 1/2" hole
17:40 hang indoor unit Evaporator
20:00 outdoor unit condenser
20:40 drill hole through siding
23:24 start to connect and bend line set
33:17 release refrigerant check for leaks
35:25 condensate drain hose
36:13 Electrical
39:22 start Mr Cool
41:20sound deadening pads insulate
45:30 ending
✝Bible ESV easy to read amzn.to/3qshNQP
✝Bible NKJV amzn.to/30ns322
✅Titan Solar Generator (large generator) poweredportablesolar.com/ref/48/
✅Sony ZV-1 (camera I use) amzn.to/3MxVeG2
✅sony wireless UWP-D (mic I use). amzn.to/3LEPV6m
✅Go Pro that I use amzn.to/2WC6WXH
✅Wireless mic used: Rode Wireless Go amzn.to/2WxQt7c
*Full transparency. I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
*Disclaimer - Thank you for visiting my UA-cam channel. Please understand that the content on the DIY jim UA-cam channel is intended for informational purposes only. I make no warranties about the completeness, reliability and accuracy of this information. Any action you take upon the information posted on my UA-cam channel is strictly at your own risk, and I will not be liable for any losses and damages in connection with the use of my UA-cam channel.
This was a great help! We too are doing the install a bit different as I must go through the attic and down through the back of a closet and then outside at the bottom of the closet. And you are right, you are the first to show an alternative route. Fortunately the 25' will be long enough and hopefully end up looking as neat as yours. Great idea to use the PVC pipe for the drain line. I think I will do that to ensure the slant stays true through the attic. I am a 78 year old great grandmother. For 60 years I have been my husband's helper and now we have had to reverse roles. Wish us luck!
Awesome I hope it turns out good. If you lived near me I would come help. God bless
Good detail in covering any exposed copper with insulation as it will sweat and drip if left exposed. Also one of the neatest and easy to watch install vids on this subject.
Thank you ver much
This is the BEST video with the most detailed installation instructions!
Thanks
The real Mr Cool is Jim. As for me, I cannot afford those Mr Cool products. Instead I got hold of a used Daizuki 36,000 BTU system and soldered together copper lines. It has a noisy fan motor, but gets plenty cold and costs 25 dollars a month to operate. SInce I put the evaporator on the inside wall I had to be creative with the drain which goes to the kitchen sink. Like you I did not want any extra lines hanging around so I ran it through the attic and then down from the overhang, our walls are block and poured concrete. I did not feel safe running a black extension cord with 220 so I ran steel conduit and pulled 14 gauge wires from the condenser to the evaporator. 8 gauge from condensing unit to the fuse box. As always love the detail you give us!
Sounds like you have a nice setup. Thanks for watching my friend
Jim Excellent Video, very nicely done and you have provided a ton of good information. The only thing I would add would be about the electrical connections/wires out side - from AC disconnect to outside unit. Normally green is used for ground, back for hot, white for neutral (or second hot line if it is 240V, sometimes red is also used for second hot line).
Thanks for the info this is definitely why I said I’m not a professional election. Thanks for watching Max
Thank thank thank you. I have a situation where I need to run the lines to the right side of the evaporator.. I have been stressing out and some of the communications with customer service has been lacking. I feel more confident running the line to the right.
Just bend the pipe slowly, use both hands. I’m sure it will turn out great.
Great job Jim. Only issue is you used green wire for line 1 and black wire for ground . Please reverse this. Green is only allowed for ground never anything else except some odd traffic light situations. Black cannot be a ground. All things being equal it wont be an issue but anyone else ever works on this could get hurt. Also green wires are sometimes smaller because a ground wire can be undersized. Not sure if yours is. NEC 250.119 prohibits any green, green/yellow striped or bare wire from being used as hot. Easy fix.
Thank you for pointing this out I will check it out and change so know one gets hurt. Thanks again
Really good video! I'm in the process for planning to install my own 18k unit and have been watching tons of YT videos (there are a lot - thank you YT!) so I can learn anything and everything to anticipate every step of the installation and get all the needed parts organized before I even get started.
Like yours, mine will be a bit non-standard in that I'm running the line set from the interior wall of my living room and through the garage to the outside wall of the garage. I will have a few feet of extra from the 25' line set (16" is also available but it would be just a couple of feet short). Like your install, I will snake the extra line set horizontally on the garage rafters before running it down the inside wall of the garage before exiting the outside of the garage wall right to the condenser. I won't need any line set cover.
Also, my condensate hose will be run to a different location on another side of the garage.
I will mount the condenser on the outside garage wall (not on a pad) and what's driving me crazy is there are tons of mini-split condenser wall mount racks (some in stainless at reasonable prices) on Amazon and HVAC supply places, but finding one suitable to mount to 16"OC studs 32" apart seems next to impossible so far. The strictly vertical brackets available in pairs don't have the necessary cross members to accommodate the condenser mounting feet of the 18k unit at 26.1" (663 mm) wide. I don't want to mount the rack at only 16" OC for a heavy condenser that is 35" wide! I'm really surprised I'm not finding a suitable rack. There are several I've found that go only to about 30.5" wide (including the one you link to).... WTF! What the hell am I supposed to do... go to a metal fabricator to make custom cross members?? Seems that mounting into studs at 32" wide would be a common need based on typical condenser sizes. Again, WTF?
The only thing I wish you have covered in your otherwise great video was the electrical connection from the AC disconnect to the condenser. I've seen it in a couple of other videos but people have done it a little differently and I want to be sure I have it nailed before I start, as I'm doing my own electrical wiring from adding a 30A double pole breaker, running the wiring through conduit inside the garage, then out the wall directly into the AC disconnect switch. At that point I will only need a couple of feet of AC whip to the condenser. Wish me luck!
Hope it all turns out great you definitely seem to have a good plan. Glad my video helped you and thanks for watching
Very informative. Thanks for helping us all be a little more self-reliant.
Welcome thanks for watching
Great job Jim.... I contacted Mr cool today looking for the video of removing the blower fan,. Turns out the only one available is a guy removing the blower MOTOR. He does a nice job, but not exactly what I wanted... Just trying to get the blower fan blade out to clean it on my 2400 DIY indoor unit.
Maybe I will try to make a video one of these days.
Very well made video and easy to understand. Thanks for all the hard work to put this video together. Very helpful.
Thank you and thanks for leaving a comment and subbing if you did.
Thanks, you gave me the confidence to do my garage!!!
Your welcome thanks for watching
That’s a big project you did there JIM. Great job!
Thank you hope you had a good weekend
Gracias, Buen Trabajo.🥰
Your welcome
Jim, great video... truly helped! Keep going man, you have a gift!
Thanks, will do!
Great video! I too hate the excess line rolled up outside, as well as the condensate drain line (vs PVC). Thanks for the help. Giving it a go next week.
Hope it turns out good for you. Thanks for watching
The whole checking for leaks thing is a bit hopeless because the line fittings are O-ring based. The torque specs really just ensure you have bottomed the fitting (as opposed to still drawing it together). The threads don't seal anything and there's no flare connection that needs to seat or something. If you have a leak at a line set fitting, you are probably hosed, but at least you can stop and then probably deal with your vendor/Mr Cool for the next steps (as opposed to running the unit low on refrigerant).
That's good to know.
Jim sir all I can say your dad taught you well if I can remember everything my dad taught me I can do everything without paying anyone also watching your videos 😁😊what can you not do take care great video as allways.
I am not a very good mechanic. That’s what I’m not good at. Thanks again Alexander
Great video Jim 👍
Thanks Martin
Great video thank you
Welcome thanks for watching
You did a wonderful job. It looks clean the way you installed it.
Did you say your unit was also for heat? I need my son in law to install one in my garage.
Have a great weekend!
Yes it’s a heat pump. It will cool and make heat. Only makes heat good, if it is 20deg or warmer. I’m guessing I will be trying it this winter.
@@DIYJIM Thanks Jim!
My preferred method is to try to come up with an air handler/condenser location that is favorable to either a 25 or 16 (or multiples if longer) line set. Then, since your design is close, wait to place the condenser until you have hung the inside unit(s) and draped the line set down the house and over to the condenser area. Once that is roughed in, you can choose the final location for the condenser. For example, I am planning (my second install) a 2 zone system. One room requires about 16 feet and the other about 25 feet. I poured an oversize pad so that I had some room to slide the stand back and forth depending on which line set is really driving the condenser placement. We'll see how I did...
Thanks for the information I was wondering if you could take the lines out the side of the inside unit instead just out the back.
I think I did take it out the side. So I guess your answer is yes. 12:09
Hey DIY Jim - how you calculate the correct BTU for your mini-split system?
I would just give them a call or I think it says how much SQ FT each one is good for on their website. Just take your length times width of your room to figure out square footage.
You could have gotten your system with a 16 foot line set instead of 25. Ingrams will let you do that, for example.
Thanks for watching, I can not complain I just tried to make a nice video for the company they sent me the AC for free. Thanks for watching
Jim, Great info. Did you the power from your panel to the shut off or did you have an electrician do that? If you did it, please share the steps. Thanks.
I did but I’m not an electrician that’s why I did not share a lot about the electrical. Sorry
Thank you for your video, It gave me a better understanding of the condensate line. But, notching the bottom of floor or ceiling joists is never legal. Stacking your holes vertically significantly weakens your joists as well. Generally, for non engineered lumber, it is legal to drill holes one third of the depth of the joist, in the outer third of length of the joist in the center third of the joist. Not sure here, but it makes sense that the holes should be six inches apart. Engineered beams have specific drilling specifications that can be looked up, last ones I worked with allowed only holes in center third and nowhere near one third of depth. If your job is going to be inspected, I highly recommend looking up where and what size holes are legal. Really expensive to replace joists and beams.
Thanks for the information. Thanks for watching
@@DIYJIM I really like the idea of using landscape water pipe for the condensate lines. I am in the middle of converting my 2600 sq ft home into a duplex or ADU unit. Your video cleared up a lot for me. I talked to a HVAC contractor friend and when installing line sets through joists, he advised splitting the set and drilling two holes, I have taken a razor knife and easily split the out and in lines. I will be attempting to use one 1 3/4" and one 1 1/4" bits. I will have to measure twice to make sure my holes are perfectly straight but at 64, not my first Rodeo.
Jim my question is u don't need to run a neturel wire? And how's the harman working
No neutral it’s 240 and Harmon still going good.
Do u have a video on how to safely do the breaker 220 in the house?
Sorry I do not
Man you make everything look easy. How does the Mr. Cool compare so far with the Mitsubishis you have? By the way-that Gorilla tape IS indeed the best. It’s like Frank’s Red Hot…I put that $#!t on everything haha.
Well the AC is in my garage so I can not do a very good comparison. Since I have not keep it on all the time. I will probably use it more for heat this winter.
Nice video! Can you tell me the measurement between the front and back holes in the feet of the condenser?
13 5/8 hope this helps
@@DIYJIM Thanks so much, Jim! It helps a lot!
See page 22 of the installation manual for all the dimensional specs: mrcool.com/wp-content/dox_repo/mc-diy-4-es-im-um-en-01.pdf
What program do you use to edit videos?
iMovie on my Mac. You looking into starting your own channel? ua-cam.com/video/rYBLxjsBwDc/v-deo.html
Nice no evacuation
Correct it comes ready to hook up. No need to use vacuum
@@DIYJIM line set and evaporator are already in a vacuum?
@@rich1807 yes
How big does the slab need to be for this 36k?? Ordering mine soon.
Not sure how big the condenser unit is on the 36k? Sorry can not help
I did mine 24"×48"
@@robertsheward9336 thanks I poured one a few months back and bolted a stand to it since we have snow.Thanks for reply.
I installed a 18k but is not heating and sometimes comes a code PC 03
I would call the company hope you get it figured out
I don't think the wire gauge/amp table at the beginning is correct. The 18k unit should be a min of 12 gauge and a max of 10 gauge. 18k and up runs on 240V. For my single zone 18k I ran 12/2 and used a 20A breaker. For the 18k dual zone I am installing I elected to run 10/2 and use a 25A breaker, because of the second inside unit.
In a different video on the 18k unit someone else said the same thing.... that 8 ga was too large....it should be 10 ga, but I don't understand why. I'm planning on a 30A double pole breaker and not sure if I should use 8 or 10 ga.
@@festerofest4374 10 is sufficient. Don't need that 30A breaker either.
@@kevin9c1 Thank you so much for the reply! The electrical part is the last part of the whole project I don't feel totally comfortable with. So I shouldn't need a 30A breaker? These are the specs from the install manual, if that helps confirm exactly what is needed:
208-230V, 60Hz, 1 Ph
Min circuit ampacity 18
Max fuse (outdoor) 30 (MOP?)
If you are able to confidently answer this I'd really appreciate it! What type of breaker is most suitable, the best possible for long life of the compressor and safety, even if it's a little overkill? I was reading that larger wire is helpful in reducing start-up load on the compressor, hence 8 ga, particularly since the manual states min 10 ga, 8 preferred. But I've read other comments with people saying no, don't go with 8 ga... use 10 ga.
When following the suggestion of another video, 30A double pole seemed really easy for me to understand how to wire to the breaker.... two hot (one black, one red) and a ground. With this wiring it seemed really straightforward from the breaker to the AC disconnect switch, and then into the panel on the condenser with he same wiring plan.
What should I be doing, to do it the best way? Thanks!
@@festerofest4374 My manual for my 18k gen 4 two zone says 18 min and 25 max. Min 12 ga but 10 ga preferred. So for mine I did the biggest everything. 10 ga, and 25A breaker. A 30A could be unsafe and theoretically damage the equipment even if you used 8 ga. A 25 double pole is the same as a 30. White and black for the two hot legs. So use 10/2 cable. I am talking about the breaker in your panel. For the disconnect box I wouldn't even bother with a breaker unless you think your code requires it. I use a 10ga whip from the disconnect box to the condenser. It is stranded cable and is easy to connect.
@@kevin9c1The breaker in your service panel is just there to protect the wire in your structure, not any equipment or device you hook to that circuit.
Are u the 75th guy that got a mr cool free for doing a video?
I couldn’t tell you but it is a nice AC. Thanks for watching
Why do all videos about this skip the wiring part? You just suddenly see the wire all set up and ready.
Sorry because I’m not an electrician
Dude, you really used a green wire for a line wire and a black wire for a ground?
Thanks for pointing this out. I think I said I was not an electrician. But I have changed it. Thanks for watching
I also took that part out of the video. I do not want anyone to get hurt. Thanks for pointing it out. Hope you have a good 4th.
Up next: Jim does a 2 ton goodson split! :p
UA-cam, can you please stop returning sponsored videos. I don't care about videos that paid for by vendors.
Thanks for watching still like my heat and AC in my garage. Thanks for commenting