As a detail-oriented amateur, I'm also impressed by your work quality. It looks like you ultimately went for doing everything right, even when you accidentally made mistakes and went back to correct it.
I’ve just finished watching about 20 videos on how to install a mini split system. Yours is, overall, the best. Clear, concise, technically accurate, an excellent production!
A lot of our cats are like that. We recently redid our floors in the hallway and put in vinyl flooring and we had to lock up one of the cats because she would not leave everyone alone and was right there and everyone's face while they are hammering and chiseling at the sides of the wall about to get her paws smashed. Every tool that someone was touching had to also be touched by the cat. Every piece of flooring that was being installed had to be touched by the cat no matter how much noise was going on. Nothing deterred her from investigating everything in the room.
I inadvertently purchased the non diy Mr cool version of my mini split. Thank You for your very comprehensive installation video. I will definitely be referring back to your video when I begin the installation of my unit. Again, Thank You!
You did an amazing job with good clear explamation. Mr Cool A/C Company should you doing promotion for their A/C product and give you a new unit from time to time for testing. Thank you and please continue to post more videos.
You should see our indoor cat. We have to put her away because she will be in your lap while we are hitting stuff with a hammer. If we go into the attic she has to climb up the ladder with us. Both are very chill. If we turn on the vaccum or something the indoor one has to be there watching.
This is a great installation and I like that you put it on the wall. Many UA-camrs are not securing outdoor units at all and let them just sit on the ground. And as the final, they are getting coolant leak sooner or later.
We installed one at the In-laws on the ground and one 8ft up the wall. The one on the ground is nailed in with foot long nails on a thick pad so that shouldn't have an issue with leaks as it won't be moving.
Recently installed my own non-DIY system (triple-head). Nice to see someone else use flexible conduit for the power cables out to the indoor units, see many videos where there's no conduit used! Took me a while to get everything to hold vacuum (because the o-ring had fallen out of my mini-split adapter, so was chasing non-existent leaks for quite a while). In the end, it's been a great, quiet and efficient system!
Excellent demo! Especially useful is knowing that kinking the line-set does not mean you need to replace entire line set. As you demonstrated, with some extra work, it can still be made to work.
Nice install! I agree with a previous poster about considering the "thermal mass" of your garage. The AC has to cool the contents as well as the air. I just installed a mini split as well, and after the contents are cooled the garage maintains temperature very well, and even when opening and closing the garage doors, the space readily cools back down. My NC summer climate is hot and muggy, so I leave mine on all the time.We will leave hot cars outside to cool, when weather allows, to make it easier to maintain temp., as a hot car radiates so much heat.
Thanks. I blew the air through the side i had not cut yet so it went all the way through and blew the shavings out. Then i could blow through that side to clear out the other one.
The issue with the initial cooling test is that everything in the garage is at 88 degrees. It will take 24 hours plus to cool off the contents of the garage and get everything down to 72 degrees. Try turning the AC on first thing in the morning when the garage is already cool, it should keep the low overnight temperature. I returned from a trip to find my AC had failed in AZ in summer, the interior of my home was 95 degrees. With outside temps over 110 degrees it took two full days to get the house back down to 78 degrees due to the fact that the walls and all contents of a 4 bedroom house were all at 95 degrees.
After using the A/C for a couple weeks, I think the issue was that I had two cars parked in there at the time and the airflow wasn't being distributed very well. I have since moved the louvers so some of the air is blowing more to the other side, and even turning it on when the inside temperature was 90 and the outside temperature was 106, it hit my set point of 72 in about 2 hours. Since there are days (or even weeks) when I am not out there working on anything, I deliberately got an oversized unit so I don't need to leave it on and waste energy keeping things cool all the time. A 12k might behave the way you described.
@@jkfeatherranchI always do the recommended btu math. Then go up to the nearest unit with at least 8,000btu over figured math. May only run the unit 4-6 days total out of a month so when I do want to kick it on it’ll knock the heat off quickly. Same as using the heat. 👍🏼
Great video. I am about to buy a unit. I really don't like that coil of unused lines stuffed behind the outside unit that result from the DIY install. I like that your unit (like any AC unit) has the lines sized to fit properly.
Thanks and you're welcome. With how much help UA-cam has been for us we want to be sure to help out others as well. Got to save money where you can and what better way than to do your repair is an upgrades yourself.
If your micron gauge holds steady, good to go on the leak test, as the outdoor temp is on the rise the reading will also go up. the average charge in cooling with the compressor running should read 125 psi. In heat mode look for 300-425.
Very nice work and great video. The 2 cars are massive heat 'batteries' so I'd say that unit will do well. I'm looking at installing one of these soon, but need to find a product that has a floor mount air handler and a warrantee that doesn't require a certified installer.
It's doing well after 2 years and as long as I remember to keep the filter clean, has no problem hitting 70-72 on a 100+ degree day if I remember to turn it on a couple hours before I go out there to work. A floor fan helps to distribute the air. The DIY version of these gives a 5 or 7 (if I remember right?) year warranty for a non-professional and I think you can get them with low-wall mounted air handlers, but I've never seen one with a floor-mounted one. I'm not sure how much good that would even do, since the piping is not flexible enough to roll it around. Unless I'm misunderstanding what you're asking for.
@@jkfeatherranch my ex just had some Mitsubishi floor units installed. The vanes direct the cold air up at approx 45deg. Works a treat. Senville makes some that look pretty good.
Good instruction with details that matter. I would like instruction on using those gauges, as well as basic refeigeration for these tyoes of systems. Do you know of an online course for such training?
Sir,you answered my question,I’m installing the same unit and when it came time to connect the lines to the inside unit,there was a hiss and some gas was escaping,so I stopped wondering if it was an inert gas or Freon in the unit,but when I watched your video you mentioned it was argon gas,then I finished the installation.I have to mention I watched a lot of videos for the non DIY type but that detail was not given,until I watched yours.Thank you.
You're truly a Renaissance man. I was just going to buy a vacuum pump & leave the lines intact but just maybe you've inspired me to try making flares. Thx. Personally, I think mr cool charges way too much for their DIY feature.
I am researching installing my own mini split, and have watched several videos. Nobody, thus far, after watching 7 videos, have stated that one can "borrow" the vacuum and AC gauges from an auto parts store. -- you just leave $150 deposit and you get it back once you return the item(s). The only thing left to buy is the flange set, and the gauge "mini" connection. It's always best to not have extra length on the pipes, and God forbid you coil them in the vertical plane! I was surprised in THIS VIDEO, that the OP did not test for leaks on the inside unit before going through all the trouble. I can imagine finding out you have to return/swap the unit AFTER drilling holes and brackets, etc.
The auto part store does not have the correct gauges. You can’t just use any gauge. Plus an Auto part spot vacuum will be for 134. I wouldn’t mix refrigerant like that. Mess up the oil.
Good video. I like the fact that you installed a non DIY unit. I've been watching videos on DIY units and this is the first MR COOL video I've seen of a non DIY install. I didn't know all one needed to do was to ensure the line fittings were installed correctly and the compressor itself was charged enough to sufficiently load/charge the lines. I would definitely trim or cut the lines to the exact length of any unit I would try to install as it looks so much cleaner and neater during an install. I thought one would install everything as you did and then bring in a technician to correctly charge the system before starting it. I don't understand the difference between this unit you have installed and a DIY unit as the install process is almost identical except for allowing the compressor charge the lines verses using precharged lines with the DIY install. Maybe I'm missing something?
No, you're not missing anything and that's why I didn't bother with the DIY version. It is my understanding that "pre-charged" lines is a misnomer, and in fact they are simply pre-vacuumed and sealed off. Both the DIY and non-DIY store all the refrigerant in the compressor, and you open the valves to release it once the lines are attached and vacuumed in the case of the non-DIY. Adding refrigerant only applies if you're using lines longer than the pre-charged length, which should be listed somewhere in the manual. I think it was 25 feet for mine.
Thanks for the info. I have been looking and was already thinking the cost of the diy vs the non diy was dumb. I was fully prepared to get the non diy and charge it. Even better knowing all you have to do is pull vac on the line set, and that it is technically already has freon in the compressor
I also just realized Lowes sells the “precharged” line separate for $200. If someone doesnt have gauges or a vac pump. That is still cheaper option buying that line separate and saving $800-$1000 on the “diy”
Nice video. One thought is the wrong kind of spray foam in that wall hole can squeeze shut the condensate line and flood the air handler reservoir, spilling water over your interior wall.
Great Video! By far one of the best mini-split install videos. I'm going to install one this summer and preparing. Not sure from the angle but could the kayak hanging from the ceiling be in the way of getting 100% air flow from the unit? From the angle in the video, looks like it could be blocking the right 1/3 of the unit where the air is discharged.
The Unistrut was a good install idea for the wall bracket. Maybe I missed why the ceiling was not drywalled or finished like your side walls to reduce the volume you needed to cool. Most of these install I never hear anyone say they need to be inspected by the city, especially the electrical. Never hear anyone say they used ground fault breakers.
I left the ceiling open because I use the rafters as storage and there are not enough joists going across to easily secure drywall to. The reason that nobody uses ground fault breakers is because they are incompatible with the inverters used in mini splits. They are known to create interference and trip them immediately even when nothing is wrong.
Great detailed video! Hoping you would an update regarding whether or not the weight and vibration of the compressor is causing the stucco to crack? This has been a huge concern of mine while contemplating where to put mine. I have same texture as yours. Because of my concern I’ve decide to mount in less than ideal location on a pad rather then attach to more ideal location which is to building under the gable end vent. Before I begin the process it would be awesome to learn if my hesitation is justified or not?
I ended up purchasing four mini splits. They are a different brand of course. They did not have the pre-charged line set. I went ahead and purchased the tools necessary ie vacuum pump kit for mini splits, 45 degree r410 a flaring kit, digital micron gauge, two of the vacuum rated valve core removal tools one of them 5/16 one of them 1/4 inch, open-ended torque wrench kit, nylog sealant, reaming tool and better bubble leak detection solution. About $700. I'm installing four mini splits into my home making it multiple zones. I only paid $2,900 for all four. As I am all solar off grid the 36,000 BTU inverter 18 Seer mini split will be in the living room. Each room will get a 18 Seer 12000 BTU Wi-Fi enabled inverter Mini split. I will be busy needless to say this weekend is going to be hot and I am going to have fun. Edit: I will make sure that all of my flares are sufficient and connections torqued down. I will then vacuum the system to below 150 micron. I will follow instructions per the manual and release some refrigerant testing for leaks before releasing the rest. I could not bring myself to purchase nitrogen for pressure testing
Sounds like you bought more stuff than me. This was basically a test run but since then Ive done our whole house with mini splits because our central air was too small to keep it cool anyways. So far they're all working very well.
I have a question, which generation did you install? The manual is a little confusing for where to drill the line set hole. Mine says 5.95 inches to the right and 1.85 inches from the bottom. Is this 5.95 inches from the center of the bracket (on the bottom right) and 1.85 inches from the bottom of the bracket or the bottom of the air handler (i.e. is it less than 1.85 in from the bottom of the bracket.
Riverside, CA? One advantage of the non DIY version was demonstrated when you solved your kinked line issue. That wouldn't be possible with charged lines. (Without recharging.)
Yep, Riverside, CA. Yes, this is true, and it also meant I could shorten the lines to the length I wanted to and not have a massive coil hanging out stuck behind it. It's kind of an eyesore when you have that so this looks much nicer.
Its a standard two car garage. It can get it down to 72 on a 110 degree day, which is a fairly normal summer day. We have a large fan to help cicrulate the room better and it feels fine on the far side with that. Just needs a little help with air flow in the large room, especially if there is a car in the way.
It's been holding up for 2 years now, only "problem" I had wasn't a problem at all, but it wasn't maintaining temperature and gave me an error in the app about the evaporator temperature. Turns out the filter was clogged and it worked fine again after cleaning it 🙃
You could of used a brazed fitting on the lineset which you kinked made a 90 bend and brazed it with a map gas torch which would of got hot enough for silver braze too melt . and maybe shorten up the lineset and checked the charge .
Bought it from Amazon for way too much money. I've done another mini-split since then and just used 3x4 square metal downspout. Cut the back out and it slips right over the lines, and made my own end caps the same way I did in this video. Just be careful with drill presses, my fingernail is still growing back!
Does a 2 ton mini split move as many CFM as a normal 2 tons heat pump with air handler? I'm planning on using four 2 ton mini splits in my 40x68x13 shop.
Nice install. I'm now looking to do this to our two car garage. My biggest concern is not the wiring or anything like that but drilling the damn hole in the wall then to the outside (we have siding)...lol In your video you have the unit mounted to the exterior wall which I would want to do as well since our two AC units are directly bolted to the exterior brick foundation wall (all of our houses in the HOA are like this). I have heard however that these little things can vibrate the hell out of everything and you hear it through the garage. Do you find that to be true? I would not want to mount this on the ground. I want it up and out of the way. Also like your "real" world problem of messing up the line. That's totally something that would happen to me and it's nice to see a video that isn't stitched together "perfectly" no problem installs.
Thank you. I'm not gonna lie there's a slight vibration/hum when it's running but it's not something that would be a concern in a garage. A window or through-wall A/C is MUCH louder.
I got this one from Amazon but later I found out that I eat overpaid for it, so I've been using pieces of 4x3 square metal downspout with the back cut out of them, which are about $20 instead of $100.
I plan on doing one of these Advantage non-DIY kits, but I am going to be needing 75' of line (I think they come with 16 or 25 ft). Since I will have a longer lineset, than what is included, will I need to have additional R-410A added to my system?
Yes, there is a certain length over which you have to add a certain amount per foot, but I don't remember what it is off of the top of my head. It will be in the directions somewhere. There is also a total max length over which the system won't perform well, which you should keep in mind.
In case the lines ever create condensation, I'd rather have them outside. Also in case there's a leak or something it's just easier to chase down and fix.
I knew that each stud was straight down and directly to the left of each rafter, so I used that for reference. If you don't have something like that, you can look for the nails in wooden siding, or you might have to drill a small pilot hole from the inside and patch drywall later.
A nitrogen pressure test is recommended for installs a lot of diy installs fail because you cannot properly test for leaks with just a vaccum. The flares also need to be properly torqued down to specs otherwise they can leak as well.
I mean, technically you're right, but my cheap ass didn't feel like springing for that at the time. Or the proper torque wrench. So I went with the German method of "gutenteit!"
We can see the rafters and they are immediately to the left of them in our garage so all I had to do is measure straight down from that. Please don't take this advice without verifying how your wall was built first. Othewise if you don't know and don't have a way to indicate, you can find the stud on the inside and drill a small hole all the way through to the outside and patch it later. Lots of guessing. We had to do that on the In-Laws house and have one hole in the wrong place.
The kit should tell you what size hole to drill, if not then just drill one the same size as the wall sleeve. We've installed a couple of 9k and I think they were 2.5"
Those short 90's on the refrigerant lines are no-bueno. Otherwise nice install. Personally, with the price of refrigerant these days, I also like to pressure-test with nitrogen overnight before the final vacuum too!
They're probably not ideal but they've been working so far. I didn't have a nitrogen tank available but I've been testing other ones I've installed and so far no leaks found.
Love the videi. I'm planning on buying a torque wrench, but really debating whether it was needed. How did you judge how tight to tighten the fittings? Just very snug and call it good, since the vacuum test will tell you if a leak? One other question: i bought a crappy Vevo manifold set and it's leaking, i see the fitting has a scrape so it was defective on arrive. Where did you buy your yellow jacket manifold (and midel number?) Thanks so much again for this helpful video!
I don't remember the model number but I bought it on Amazon along with the rest of the parts. Between our house and the in-laws, I've probably done 10 mini splits total at this point and it's held up fine. I, too, went through two cheap Harbor Freight manifold sets that started leaking before finally buying something better.
Thanks. If you watch to the end of the video, I didnt. I had to cut the kinked part out and replace it with elbows. After that I always use spring benders so that doesn't happen. $11 on Amazon for a set that covers all the sizes you need. Lifesaver.
In my case, I knew that the studs were immediately to the left of the rafters, so I was able to use a level and measure down. If you don't have that option, you might have to locate them from the inside and drill a small pilot hole through to the outside. If there is drywall, you can patch it later.
Minor detail, but the sleeve should be installed from the inside to the outside. The smaller flange goes inside with the flat side on the bottom so the sleeve is fully concealed behind the indoor unit. The heavy metal flange is then caulked in to the sleeve outside.
It has the ability to throttle down to only 6,000 BTU so not really. On a hot day (100+), it draws ~2,000 watts continuously to maintain 70-72 so I wouldn't really say it's "oversized," and wouldn't really want to have gone with anything less.
I installed this same unit in my house 3 yrs ago. Don't forget that the inside head unit has to be pulled apart including removing the long tube fan under the evaporator to clean it. Dirt and mildew/mold builds up on the fan blades and behind the evaporator on the plastic and needs to be thoughly cleaned once a year. It's sorta a chore to disassemble the head unit but after the first time it becomes easier. If you don't do this the head unit will become infested with mold/mildew build up and unhealthy to be breathing in. Good luck...
Purchased from Amazon, please see the description for links to the products I used. You can also get ones with built-in ball valves which might be useful.
@@jkfeatherranch TY for the response. My unit is only a year old. It is leaking water into my house. The service guy (who just put Freon in last year) says it is bc it’s leaking Freon. So after another $250 for Freon, he’s trying to sell me a $6000 unit. Says my unit is a piece of crap. 🤷♀️
@@jkfeatherranch thabk you fornyour reply and making this informative video, I had bought the wrong version thinking the advantage was the DIY version, but watching ur video and seeing you complete the install gave me the confidence to keep the unit and do it myself. Excited
From where the refrigerator liquid comes from? Don’t you have to turn on anything from inside unit before releasing the refrigerator liquid into the outside unit?
The refrigerant is stored inside the outdoor unit. Once everything is hooked up and vacuumed and confirmed to not leak, all you have to do is open the valves on the outdoor unit. Do not turn anything on until doing this.
your're not going to know if you have a leak when you close the low side from the micron gauge and go off the manifold gauges they aren't precise unless its a huge leak thats what the micron gauge is good for. otherwise you could have pressurized the system with nitrogen and sprayed your joint with bubbles to see if they were leaking
As an HVAC installer I’m very impressed with the quality of work
Thank you!
As a detail-oriented amateur, I'm also impressed by your work quality. It looks like you ultimately went for doing everything right, even when you accidentally made mistakes and went back to correct it.
@@JimmyNewCakes Thanks. That's why I like to do it myself. I know I will make it look right.
On mine left more access to the drain tube . They are known to clog up .
@@arcraider937 if it clogs I'll figure it out
I’ve just finished watching about 20 videos on how to install a mini split system. Yours is, overall, the best. Clear, concise, technically accurate, an excellent production!
Thank you so much. I tried to make it as helpful as possible and tried to get all the needed information in there.
@12:10 I love how the cat is so cool with power tool use that he's just chilling and trying to take a nap.
A lot of our cats are like that. We recently redid our floors in the hallway and put in vinyl flooring and we had to lock up one of the cats because she would not leave everyone alone and was right there and everyone's face while they are hammering and chiseling at the sides of the wall about to get her paws smashed. Every tool that someone was touching had to also be touched by the cat. Every piece of flooring that was being installed had to be touched by the cat no matter how much noise was going on. Nothing deterred her from investigating everything in the room.
That was a pro install. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I got the DIY version but will opt for the non DIY for the other rooms. Thanks
You're welcome, glad it helped (:
I inadvertently purchased the non diy Mr cool version of my mini split. Thank You for your very comprehensive installation video.
I will definitely be referring back to your video when I begin the installation of my unit.
Again, Thank You!
Glad it helped. You probably saved money by doing that anyways.
This is a great DIY AC installation I have ever seen. You are a master of AC and thanks for sharing.
Thanks!
You did an amazing job with good clear explamation. Mr Cool A/C Company should you doing promotion for their A/C product and give you a new unit from time to time for testing. Thank you and please continue to post more videos.
Thank you 👍
I wish, we installed 5 more of these on our house and animal shed, and had to pay for all of them 😥
I used your video to help me install a “non” diy unit - thank you very much - this helped me so much!
Glad it was helpful
I unknowingly bought the non DIY kit and would like to thank you immensely for making this video!!!
You're welcome. Glad you found it useful.
That is the most chill cat on the planet. She's just hanging out while you cut that sheet metal with a grinder... (12:00)
You should see our indoor cat. We have to put her away because she will be in your lap while we are hitting stuff with a hammer. If we go into the attic she has to climb up the ladder with us. Both are very chill. If we turn on the vaccum or something the indoor one has to be there watching.
This is a great installation and I like that you put it on the wall. Many UA-camrs are not securing outdoor units at all and let them just sit on the ground. And as the final, they are getting coolant leak sooner or later.
We installed one at the In-laws on the ground and one 8ft up the wall. The one on the ground is nailed in with foot long nails on a thick pad so that shouldn't have an issue with leaks as it won't be moving.
Recently installed my own non-DIY system (triple-head). Nice to see someone else use flexible conduit for the power cables out to the indoor units, see many videos where there's no conduit used! Took me a while to get everything to hold vacuum (because the o-ring had fallen out of my mini-split adapter, so was chasing non-existent leaks for quite a while). In the end, it's been a great, quiet and efficient system!
Yeah I had that problem with a cheap Harbor Freight gauge set when working on one of my cars. Low side valve leaked, couldn't figure it out!
Excellent demo! Especially useful is knowing that kinking the line-set does not mean you need to replace entire line set. As you demonstrated, with some extra work, it can still be made to work.
Thank you
By far the most comprehensive DIY Mini Split (STEP) by (STEP) installation video I have been able to find on UA-cam. Good Job!
Thank you, glad we could help (:
Hey man, thank you for your video. I’m installing same unit next weekend and this video really helps.
Best of luck! Glad we could help!
Nice install! I agree with a previous poster about considering the "thermal mass" of your garage. The AC has to cool the contents as well as the air. I just installed a mini split as well, and after the contents are cooled the garage maintains temperature very well, and even when opening and closing the garage doors, the space readily cools back down. My NC summer climate is hot and muggy, so I leave mine on all the time.We will leave hot cars outside to cool, when weather allows, to make it easier to maintain temp., as a hot car radiates so much heat.
Yeah they're probably right, as it does eventually get down to temperature, and then heats back up after bringing a hot car inside...
Outstanding system thankyou for being super in depth and step by step. Perfect video!
You're welcome. I tried to make sure to cover everything.
Impressive, Grasshopper. Your skill-set far exceeds mine!
Thanks. I learned it all from UA-cam videos!
Now this is a craftsman! Well done man!
Thanks 👍
VERY DETAILED and easy to follow. great!
Thanks. I tried to make it as thorough as I could
One of the better jobs I have seen. Only issue was when you blew air into the line set. Any metal that was on the end is now into the line set
Thanks. I blew the air through the side i had not cut yet so it went all the way through and blew the shavings out. Then i could blow through that side to clear out the other one.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You are welcome, glad we could help!
The issue with the initial cooling test is that everything in the garage is at 88 degrees. It will take 24 hours plus to cool off the contents of the garage and get everything down to 72 degrees. Try turning the AC on first thing in the morning when the garage is already cool, it should keep the low overnight temperature.
I returned from a trip to find my AC had failed in AZ in summer, the interior of my home was 95 degrees. With outside temps over 110 degrees it took two full days to get the house back down to 78 degrees due to the fact that the walls and all contents of a 4 bedroom house were all at 95 degrees.
After using the A/C for a couple weeks, I think the issue was that I had two cars parked in there at the time and the airflow wasn't being distributed very well. I have since moved the louvers so some of the air is blowing more to the other side, and even turning it on when the inside temperature was 90 and the outside temperature was 106, it hit my set point of 72 in about 2 hours.
Since there are days (or even weeks) when I am not out there working on anything, I deliberately got an oversized unit so I don't need to leave it on and waste energy keeping things cool all the time. A 12k might behave the way you described.
@@jkfeatherranchI always do the recommended btu math. Then go up to the nearest unit with at least 8,000btu over figured math. May only run the unit 4-6 days total out of a month so when I do want to kick it on it’ll knock the heat off quickly. Same as using the heat. 👍🏼
First class install. The right angle flares we’re a particularly good choice.
Thanks
Great, easy to follow video! Thank you
Glad you liked it
Very clean &excellent installation but the only mistake was cover the line set metal cover before leak test..
Nice job I love it!!
Thank you, glad we could help (:
Hello tuition was very helpful. Thank you
Great video. I am about to buy a unit. I really don't like that coil of unused lines stuffed behind the outside unit that result from the DIY install. I like that your unit (like any AC unit) has the lines sized to fit properly.
Great video thank you for taking the time to help others!!
Thanks and you're welcome. With how much help UA-cam has been for us we want to be sure to help out others as well. Got to save money where you can and what better way than to do your repair is an upgrades yourself.
this is better than most pro's in my area. great job
Haha thanks
Great vid man
Thank you (:
Great job! Very well done.
Thanks 👍
I just bought the 18k non DIY. This will helps a lot
Nice! Best of luck!
Excellent job like a professional and better
Thanks. We've had bad luck with unprofessional "professionals" 🤔
Quality DIY work.
Thank you!
Wonderful video.Thank You.
thanks. glad you enjoyed it.
Excellent video - thank you
You're welcome, glad you enjoyed it.
If your micron gauge holds steady, good to go on the leak test, as the outdoor temp is on the rise the reading will also go up. the average charge in cooling with the compressor running should read 125 psi. In heat mode look for 300-425.
Very good work...I like this work..i am work in Dubai AC technician's ❤️
Thanks! Awesome!
Very nice work and great video.
The 2 cars are massive heat 'batteries' so I'd say that unit will do well.
I'm looking at installing one of these soon, but need to find a product that has a floor mount air handler and a warrantee that doesn't require a certified installer.
It's doing well after 2 years and as long as I remember to keep the filter clean, has no problem hitting 70-72 on a 100+ degree day if I remember to turn it on a couple hours before I go out there to work. A floor fan helps to distribute the air.
The DIY version of these gives a 5 or 7 (if I remember right?) year warranty for a non-professional and I think you can get them with low-wall mounted air handlers, but I've never seen one with a floor-mounted one. I'm not sure how much good that would even do, since the piping is not flexible enough to roll it around. Unless I'm misunderstanding what you're asking for.
@@jkfeatherranch my ex just had some Mitsubishi floor units installed. The vanes direct the cold air up at approx 45deg. Works a treat. Senville makes some that look pretty good.
Great work 👌
Thanks!
Good instruction with details that matter.
I would like instruction on using those gauges, as well as basic refeigeration for these tyoes of systems. Do you know of an online course for such training?
Sir,you answered my question,I’m installing the same unit and when it came time to connect the lines to the inside unit,there was a hiss and some gas was escaping,so I stopped wondering if it was an inert gas or Freon in the unit,but when I watched your video you mentioned it was argon gas,then I finished the installation.I have to mention I watched a lot of videos for the non DIY type but that detail was not given,until I watched yours.Thank you.
Thank you. I'm glad it was helpful I tried to cover everything in the video.
You're truly a Renaissance man. I was just going to buy a vacuum pump & leave the lines intact but just maybe you've inspired me to try making flares. Thx. Personally, I think mr cool charges way too much for their DIY feature.
Glad I could motivate you. Best of luck.
If your lines are too long you can practice on the extra that you cut off.
Great job!
Thanks!
This was fun to watch
Thanks 👍
Everything in the shop has to get cool as well !
Im installing this exact same unit this weekend im wondering up to how many feet of line set does this unit come charged for
I agree 👍 thank you boss
I like the video 📸
Thanks 👍.Glad you enjoyed it.
I am researching installing my own mini split, and have watched several videos. Nobody, thus far, after watching 7 videos, have stated that one can "borrow" the vacuum and AC gauges from an auto parts store. -- you just leave $150 deposit and you get it back once you return the item(s). The only thing left to buy is the flange set, and the gauge "mini" connection. It's always best to not have extra length on the pipes, and God forbid you coil them in the vertical plane!
I was surprised in THIS VIDEO, that the OP did not test for leaks on the inside unit before going through all the trouble. I can imagine finding out you have to return/swap the unit AFTER drilling holes and brackets, etc.
That's what rags and or a piece of wood is for. Since it's just the garage it wouldn't have been a big deal if there had been a problem with the unit.
The auto part store does not have the correct gauges. You can’t just use any gauge. Plus an Auto part spot vacuum will be for 134. I wouldn’t mix refrigerant like that. Mess up the oil.
Good video. I like the fact that you installed a non DIY unit. I've been watching videos on DIY units and this is the first MR COOL video I've seen of a non DIY install. I didn't know all one needed to do was to ensure the line fittings were installed correctly and the compressor itself was charged enough to sufficiently load/charge the lines. I would definitely trim or cut the lines to the exact length of any unit I would try to install as it looks so much cleaner and neater during an install. I thought one would install everything as you did and then bring in a technician to correctly charge the system before starting it. I don't understand the difference between this unit you have installed and a DIY unit as the install process is almost identical except for allowing the compressor charge the lines verses using precharged lines with the DIY install. Maybe I'm missing something?
No, you're not missing anything and that's why I didn't bother with the DIY version. It is my understanding that "pre-charged" lines is a misnomer, and in fact they are simply pre-vacuumed and sealed off. Both the DIY and non-DIY store all the refrigerant in the compressor, and you open the valves to release it once the lines are attached and vacuumed in the case of the non-DIY. Adding refrigerant only applies if you're using lines longer than the pre-charged length, which should be listed somewhere in the manual. I think it was 25 feet for mine.
@@jkfeatherranch Excellent. Nice to know. Thank you
Thanks for the info. I have been looking and was already thinking the cost of the diy vs the non diy was dumb. I was fully prepared to get the non diy and charge it. Even better knowing all you have to do is pull vac on the line set, and that it is technically already has freon in the compressor
I also just realized Lowes sells the “precharged” line separate for $200. If someone doesnt have gauges or a vac pump. That is still cheaper option buying that line separate and saving $800-$1000 on the “diy”
Nice video. One thought is the wrong kind of spray foam in that wall hole can squeeze shut the condensate line and flood the air handler reservoir, spilling water over your interior wall.
Great Video! By far one of the best mini-split install videos. I'm going to install one this summer and preparing. Not sure from the angle but could the kayak hanging from the ceiling be in the way of getting 100% air flow from the unit? From the angle in the video, looks like it could be blocking the right 1/3 of the unit where the air is discharged.
It might be but at the same time after using it for two summers it works well enough that I don't care to change it.
The Unistrut was a good install idea for the wall bracket. Maybe I missed why the ceiling was not drywalled or finished like your side walls to reduce the volume you needed to cool. Most of these install I never hear anyone say they need to be inspected by the city, especially the electrical. Never hear anyone say they used ground fault breakers.
I left the ceiling open because I use the rafters as storage and there are not enough joists going across to easily secure drywall to. The reason that nobody uses ground fault breakers is because they are incompatible with the inverters used in mini splits. They are known to create interference and trip them immediately even when nothing is wrong.
This guy is amazing
Thanks 😊
Very impressive planning and execution
Thank you!
Great detailed video!
Hoping you would an update regarding whether or not the weight and vibration of the compressor is causing the stucco to crack? This has been a huge concern of mine while contemplating where to put mine. I have same texture as yours. Because of my concern I’ve decide to mount in less than ideal location on a pad rather then attach to more ideal location which is to building under the gable end vent. Before I begin the process it would be awesome to learn if my hesitation is justified or not?
No issues whatsoever, I've used it for two summers and into the second winter now.
I ended up purchasing four mini splits. They are a different brand of course. They did not have the pre-charged line set. I went ahead and purchased the tools necessary ie vacuum pump kit for mini splits, 45 degree r410 a flaring kit, digital micron gauge, two of the vacuum rated valve core removal tools one of them 5/16 one of them 1/4 inch, open-ended torque wrench kit, nylog sealant, reaming tool and better bubble leak detection solution. About $700. I'm installing four mini splits into my home making it multiple zones. I only paid $2,900 for all four. As I am all solar off grid the 36,000 BTU inverter 18 Seer mini split will be in the living room. Each room will get a 18 Seer 12000 BTU Wi-Fi enabled inverter Mini split. I will be busy needless to say this weekend is going to be hot and I am going to have fun.
Edit: I will make sure that all of my flares are sufficient and connections torqued down. I will then vacuum the system to below 150 micron. I will follow instructions per the manual and release some refrigerant testing for leaks before releasing the rest. I could not bring myself to purchase nitrogen for pressure testing
Sounds like you bought more stuff than me. This was basically a test run but since then Ive done our whole house with mini splits because our central air was too small to keep it cool anyways. So far they're all working very well.
I have a question, which generation did you install? The manual is a little confusing for where to drill the line set hole. Mine says 5.95 inches to the right and 1.85 inches from the bottom. Is this 5.95 inches from the center of the bracket (on the bottom right) and 1.85 inches from the bottom of the bracket or the bottom of the air handler (i.e. is it less than 1.85 in from the bottom of the bracket.
Your cat was very helpful
As always.
Well done
Thank you, glad we could help (:
THANKS
You're welcome! (:
Muy buen trabajo perfecto
Thanks 👍
Thank you 😊
You're welcome 😁
Riverside, CA? One advantage of the non DIY version was demonstrated when you solved your kinked line issue. That wouldn't be possible with charged lines. (Without recharging.)
Yep, Riverside, CA. Yes, this is true, and it also meant I could shorten the lines to the length I wanted to and not have a massive coil hanging out stuck behind it. It's kind of an eyesore when you have that so this looks much nicer.
Bravisimo!!!!
Thank you!
Great info very informative, How far is the far side of the garage and what is the temp near the unit ?
Its a standard two car garage. It can get it down to 72 on a 110 degree day, which is a fairly normal summer day. We have a large fan to help cicrulate the room better and it feels fine on the far side with that. Just needs a little help with air flow in the large room, especially if there is a car in the way.
Love the video and attention to detail! You made it look super easy. How has the unit held up over time? Any issues? If so, what?
It's been holding up for 2 years now, only "problem" I had wasn't a problem at all, but it wasn't maintaining temperature and gave me an error in the app about the evaporator temperature. Turns out the filter was clogged and it worked fine again after cleaning it 🙃
You could of used a brazed fitting on the lineset which you kinked made a 90 bend and brazed it with a map gas torch which would of got hot enough for silver braze too melt . and maybe shorten up the lineset and checked the charge .
great video, where did you get the wire/line covers from...
Bought it from Amazon for way too much money. I've done another mini-split since then and just used 3x4 square metal downspout. Cut the back out and it slips right over the lines, and made my own end caps the same way I did in this video.
Just be careful with drill presses, my fingernail is still growing back!
Does a 2 ton mini split move as many CFM as a normal 2 tons heat pump with air handler? I'm planning on using four 2 ton mini splits in my 40x68x13 shop.
Not sure of the CFM, but it blows pretty hard on high. If it's not enough for proper circulation, you could always use an extra fan or two.
Best video I have seen yet and I have watched a ton of them. Can you please list the parts you used from Amazon so we can get them too? thx
Thanks. yes I will try to get that put together
Nice install. I'm now looking to do this to our two car garage. My biggest concern is not the wiring or anything like that but drilling the damn hole in the wall then to the outside (we have siding)...lol
In your video you have the unit mounted to the exterior wall which I would want to do as well since our two AC units are directly bolted to the exterior brick foundation wall (all of our houses in the HOA are like this). I have heard however that these little things can vibrate the hell out of everything and you hear it through the garage. Do you find that to be true? I would not want to mount this on the ground. I want it up and out of the way.
Also like your "real" world problem of messing up the line. That's totally something that would happen to me and it's nice to see a video that isn't stitched together "perfectly" no problem installs.
Thank you. I'm not gonna lie there's a slight vibration/hum when it's running but it's not something that would be a concern in a garage. A window or through-wall A/C is MUCH louder.
Where did you get the adapter, or what do I need To be able to go from the r134a gauge kit to the connection to the unit and vacuum pump?
My gauge set connected to the vacuum pump without an adapter, so I'm not sure what you'd need. Sorry.
One more thing where did you get the metal covering for the pipes? Like you said the sun hits the side of the house and plastic won’t hold up.
I got this one from Amazon but later I found out that I eat overpaid for it, so I've been using pieces of 4x3 square metal downspout with the back cut out of them, which are about $20 instead of $100.
I plan on doing one of these Advantage non-DIY kits, but I am going to be needing 75' of line (I think they come with 16 or 25 ft). Since I will have a longer lineset, than what is included, will I need to have additional R-410A added to my system?
Yes, there is a certain length over which you have to add a certain amount per foot, but I don't remember what it is off of the top of my head. It will be in the directions somewhere. There is also a total max length over which the system won't perform well, which you should keep in mind.
11:45 - that is one brave kitty
She is.
Great video bud. Just wondering if you had osb walls inside, why didn’t you remove them and run the lines inside the studs ?
In case the lines ever create condensation, I'd rather have them outside. Also in case there's a leak or something it's just easier to chase down and fix.
Great video but how did you find where the studs are before you used the strut for the bracket?
I knew that each stud was straight down and directly to the left of each rafter, so I used that for reference. If you don't have something like that, you can look for the nails in wooden siding, or you might have to drill a small pilot hole from the inside and patch drywall later.
@@jkfeatherranch Thank you
A nitrogen pressure test is recommended for installs a lot of diy installs fail because you cannot properly test for leaks with just a vaccum. The flares also need to be properly torqued down to specs otherwise they can leak as well.
I mean, technically you're right, but my cheap ass didn't feel like springing for that at the time. Or the proper torque wrench. So I went with the German method of "gutenteit!"
@@jkfeatherranch fair enough..hows the mini split doing..my advantage is still going strong in this georgia heat wave.
whats the trick to finding the studs behind stucco for the condenser mount lol
We can see the rafters and they are immediately to the left of them in our garage so all I had to do is measure straight down from that. Please don't take this advice without verifying how your wall was built first. Othewise if you don't know and don't have a way to indicate, you can find the stud on the inside and drill a small hole all the way through to the outside and patch it later. Lots of guessing. We had to do that on the In-Laws house and have one hole in the wrong place.
I have the 9k adventure 3rd gen. Is that also a 3.5 inch hole for the blower?
The kit should tell you what size hole to drill, if not then just drill one the same size as the wall sleeve. We've installed a couple of 9k and I think they were 2.5"
Those short 90's on the refrigerant lines are no-bueno. Otherwise nice install.
Personally, with the price of refrigerant these days, I also like to pressure-test with nitrogen overnight before the final vacuum too!
They're probably not ideal but they've been working so far. I didn't have a nitrogen tank available but I've been testing other ones I've installed and so far no leaks found.
Without using a spanner torque wrench to tighten down the fittings you might as well of used SharkBite fittings:-) great video
I use the official German torque spec - Gütenteit!
@@jkfeatherranch snug it down and go a quarter turn farther
@@trueamerican1576 tighten until it loosens, then back off a quarter turn!
They do make those now
What raintight connector is being used to connect your emt to the liquidtight?
Compression fitting > threaded coupling > flex connector. The wires inside are waterproof so it doesn't matter if a few drops get inside now and then.
Love the videi. I'm planning on buying a torque wrench, but really debating whether it was needed. How did you judge how tight to tighten the fittings? Just very snug and call it good, since the vacuum test will tell you if a leak?
One other question: i bought a crappy Vevo manifold set and it's leaking, i see the fitting has a scrape so it was defective on arrive. Where did you buy your yellow jacket manifold (and midel number?) Thanks so much again for this helpful video!
I don't remember the model number but I bought it on Amazon along with the rest of the parts. Between our house and the in-laws, I've probably done 10 mini splits total at this point and it's held up fine. I, too, went through two cheap Harbor Freight manifold sets that started leaking before finally buying something better.
As for torque specs, I just went until it felt tight. So far I've done all of the mini splits I've installed that way and never had one leak.
Great job
How do you Bend the line set without kinking
Thanks. If you watch to the end of the video, I didnt. I had to cut the kinked part out and replace it with elbows. After that I always use spring benders so that doesn't happen. $11 on Amazon for a set that covers all the sizes you need. Lifesaver.
@@jkfeatherranch thanks much
@@gregrichard9192 Welcome
What's the best way to find the studs through stucco for the mount?
In my case, I knew that the studs were immediately to the left of the rafters, so I was able to use a level and measure down. If you don't have that option, you might have to locate them from the inside and drill a small pilot hole through to the outside. If there is drywall, you can patch it later.
@@jkfeatherranch Thanks for the reply!!
Was the electric size breaker listed in the directions
Yes
I think I would’ve checked for leaks on the line set before covering all up permanently like that!! just saying
Minor detail, but the sleeve should be installed from the inside to the outside. The smaller flange goes inside with the flat side on the bottom so the sleeve is fully concealed behind the indoor unit. The heavy metal flange is then caulked in to the sleeve outside.
You're right, and I can slightly see the flange below the unit on the inside. I'm sure if I read the directions I would have known that!
Perfecto
Thanks 👍
Question... is the the oversized system short cycling?
It has the ability to throttle down to only 6,000 BTU so not really. On a hot day (100+), it draws ~2,000 watts continuously to maintain 70-72 so I wouldn't really say it's "oversized," and wouldn't really want to have gone with anything less.
I installed this same unit in my house 3 yrs ago. Don't forget that the inside head unit has to be pulled apart including removing the long tube fan under the evaporator to clean it. Dirt and mildew/mold builds up on the fan blades and behind the evaporator on the plastic and needs to be thoughly cleaned once a year. It's sorta a chore to disassemble the head unit but after the first time it becomes easier. If you don't do this the head unit will become infested with mold/mildew build up and unhealthy to be breathing in. Good luck...
Yeah lots of fun. We cleaned part of it already since it's been a year.
@@jkfeatherranch it gets easier second and third time around..
Where did you get the mini-split adapter?
Purchased from Amazon, please see the description for links to the products I used. You can also get ones with built-in ball valves which might be useful.
Does the compressor on the outside of the building need to be lower than the lines that come outside from the inside unit?
No.
It doesnt have to thats just how I installed it. The lines can go in any direction.
@@jkfeatherranch
TY for the response.
My unit is only a year old. It is leaking water into my house. The service guy (who just put Freon in last year) says it is bc it’s leaking Freon. So after another $250 for Freon, he’s trying to sell me a $6000 unit. Says my unit is a piece of crap. 🤷♀️
@@bernadetterobbins109 Do you know what the old one is?
@@jkfeatherranch the brand
is “enso “. Surely they’re supposed to last more than a year? (The service guy must be a dealer for Mitsubishi)
Question for yall, so if i diy the advantage version of mrcool, does that void my warranty?
I don't actually know, but ours is going on it's second year and still working great. Warranty is only a year and expired at this point.
@@jkfeatherranch thabk you fornyour reply and making this informative video, I had bought the wrong version thinking the advantage was the DIY version, but watching ur video and seeing you complete the install gave me the confidence to keep the unit and do it myself. Excited
@@unfaix best of luck!
How long did it take to vacuum out the lines to 300 micron?
On this one it took a couple hours, on smaller units it takes less.
From where the refrigerator liquid comes from? Don’t you have to turn on anything from inside unit before releasing the refrigerator liquid into the outside unit?
The refrigerant is stored inside the outdoor unit. Once everything is hooked up and vacuumed and confirmed to not leak, all you have to do is open the valves on the outdoor unit. Do not turn anything on until doing this.
your're not going to know if you have a leak when you close the low side from the micron gauge and go off the manifold gauges they aren't precise unless its a huge leak thats what the micron gauge is good for. otherwise you could have pressurized the system with nitrogen and sprayed your joint with bubbles to see if they were leaking