And all the other manufactures as well. I am not a big government guy but this seems something that should be a regulation! If my tractor comes loose and falls on your car it will be a bad day for sure!!!
My Dad went to a local r.v. dealer and purchased 2 screw type jack stands. We put them under each back corner of the trailer for both loading and unloading. By them being in place it won't allow the weight of the tractor or whatever to be able to lift up on the hitch and tongue. They are pretty simple but they work extremely well. Wouldn't be with out them. Gary Fox, Iowa
Did the same thing on my 18 foot haul trailer many, many years ago, welded swivel jacks on both rear corners, keeps the trailer and tow vehicle level when unloading or loading equipment.
I was actually looking for recommended tie down points for a BX23S, but this was still helpful! I have been using ratchet straps. As they age and wear, I will have to seriously consider upgrading to chains. I roll around in a Tacoma with a 7K tandem axle auto hauler. I have learned to be very conscious of weight limits and distribution. Properly setup, it tows a 4K payload comfortably and efficiently. Get it a little wrong, and it will wreck the suspension and/or cause a wreck. You need to be conscious of limits on: - Trailer GVW: Trailer + payload - Trailer hitch weight: portion of the trailer GVW carried by the truck - Truck GVW: Truck + cargo + passengers + hitch weight - Truck GCVW: Truck + cargo + passengers + Trailer GVW - Individual axle weights: The balance of the load on the truck It is easy to stay well within the trailer GVWR and the Truck's GCVWR, but still be overweight on the hitch, the truck, or a truck axle - or simply be dangerously imbalanced. I highly recommend liberal use of CAT scales, which are usually located at truck stops. Their app makes it inexpensive, fast, and super informative. You get front axle weight, rear axle weight and combined trailer axle. Learning how to balance the load properly, I did three weigh ins: 1. Truck + cargo + passengers 2. Truck + cargo + passengers + trailer. If needed, shift the trailer load and repeat. 3. Truck + cargo + passengers + trailer w/ weight distribution. Adjust bars and repeat if needed. The first weigh in gives you the trucks initial GVW: front axle + rear axle. The second weigh in gives you: - GCVW: Front axle + rear axle + trailer axles - Trailer GVW: GCVW minus the initial GVW of the truck. - Hitch weight: Front axle + rear axle minus initial GVW of the truck. With the information from the second weigh in, you can shift the load forward to add hitch weight or backwards to reduce hitch weight. The hitch weight should be 10-20% of the GVW. I prefer to be close to 12-15%, but if I am pushing the limits, then I have to be at 10-11% to make all of the numbers work. The third weigh in is all about the balance of the truck. Without weight distribution, the rear axle of the truck will carry all of the load on the hitch, and the front end will teeter totter up. You lose directional stability and control. Adding tension to a weight distribution system shifts hitch weight from the rear axle of the truck toward the front axle. The goal in adjusting the weight distribution is to get the front axle to carry some of the load: The rear axle should carry most of the load, but the front axle should have at least as much weight as it did without the trailer. As the load approaches the limits of the truck, you should also approach (but not exceed) the limit of the front axle. I have also weighed in with an empty trailer and taken ride height measurements empty and loaded. Knowing the empty weights and checking the ride height while loading helps me estimate the weights as I load, so that I do not have to make adjustments when I get to the scales - or even do all three weigh ins. The truck doesn't change much, so one weigh in will confirm that I did not make any serious mistakes. If I am borderline on anything, then I do all three. To avoid the mishap you had unloading - for loading & unloading, I use a chocks and a pedal depressor to apply the brakes (a person is better than a pedal depressor, but the stick never complains about the task). I leave the truck running for the brake pressure, pull the parking break, and put the truck in neutral to protect the parking gear. This gives me the truck parking brake (as a backup to the pedal depressor), all four truck wheel brakes and all four trailer brakes with the chocks as a backup to all of that.
I wanted to say thanks. If I lived in Pennsylvania or had more time, I would have bought my tractor from you, but I'm in Virginia and needed my tractor quickly. However, your videos have been a great help to me in determining my tractor choice. Very informative and helpful. I just purchased my L6060 and I couldn't be happier! Thank you!
Field service engineer/fitter here. Seen a lot of amusing incident regarding plant and trailers. I always load the plant into the trailer backwards much easier driving off forward when you can see what your doing. Secondly chock your wheels on the trailer and usually the rear wheels of the tow vehicle. Thirdly, Always lash in a "X" pattern front and rear with bracing straps/chains on the side of the machine. That way stops it moving forward, backwards and takes any lateral movement out. Being from the UK it always amazes me how you can move such big things with such little trucks.
Hey NEAL why don’t Kubota put hook up on all four corners of the trim of the tractor so you can pull your chain through like an O-ring hook up or just the middle plate that’s been up with a whole big enough to pull a cheat group just a question I love to hear your answer
Again, you post a video just in time to help me make an informed purchase. I've been utility trailer shopping all week for my B3350HSDC. I'm glad you mentioned the departure angle. My backhoe has the extension on it for the rearward facing seat due to the enclosed cab. I may need to stick to a low boy with protruding fenders to keep my ingress/egress ramp angle shallow.
Go to harbor freight and buy a 3” dia discharge hose (for a pump). Cut it into what ever lengths needed and slip it over your tie down straps or chains to help protect the tractor paint and protect the straps from cuts over edges. The hose lengths can obviously slide wherever needed and for safety inspection of your straps or chains because you should!
Tip on backing off, I but oak blocks under the very back of my trailer right under where the ramp connects to the trailer and it stops the front of the trailer from rising when you back off the trailer
If using straps I get some old fire dept water hose & cut it up in pieces & slide it over the strap in the spots where it contacts the tractor frame to prevent chaffing.
Just a comment on the clevis in drawbar with a chain running thru it, can actually let machine slide sideways.Better to use two separate chains and binders.Speaking from experience at work had a track digger slide on trailer running a single chain.
I agree. I had a tractor tied down this way, and work rainy and wet deck boards the tractor slid over and started rubbing tractor tire on trailer tire. I saw the smoke soon after it happened. I needed binders and straps to pull up the slip caused by road crown to get her back in place. I won't tie like that again.
Farm style tractors are more stable if backed up ramps onto a trailer. Can get very dangerous facing the other way around if you gas it going up, or hit the brakes when backing down.
@@pageleftblankintentionally Yes, if it is two wheel drive and that heavy loader lifts the rears you would not have brakes. So yes, a heavy FEL is a situation to go on forward.
Another thing to think about is your height. Especially if you are using a complete deck over trailer like your, particularly if it’s a higher GVW you’ll have taller tires. Check the height of the ROPS not to exceed 13feet. A BX ROPS are close to 7’ by themselves. It’s not unheard of to have a 3’ deck height. So little to no worries, but stepping into the B series, and especially the L you start getting up there in height.
Um I thought you would actually show us tie in down the tractor. Oh, and it would be nice if tractor manufacturers would put designated tie down hooks or loops on the tractor clearly painted so you can easily hook or strap to it.
Buy some axle straps and D-rings/shackles/cleaves. Be cautious as you add items in the tie down as that single tie down will be rated on working load limit (WLL) to the rating of the lowest rated item in the loop. Depending on the length and structure of the axle strap, they can be used in lots of ways
Also make sure you tie down with the legal amount of straps. and that you are not driving a vehicle with trailer whose GVWR requires you to have a CDL.
Another good tip when loading and unloading a machine on a hill, it is helpful to to put the truck in 4 wheeler drive, put in park and lock the parking brake. Then if the back of the truck comes off the ground it will not roll away. It has happened to me a few time, always was fast about getting on the trailer.
Always engage the 4wd on the truck when loading/unloading and set the parking brake (in gear and off if standard). If 2wd, chock the front wheels. Another mistake I’ve seen many times is loading/unloading with the trailer jackknifed which will lead to the truck moving even if everything else is done correctly.
Neil, I could damn near kiss you for making this video. It's one of the things people in Facebook groups LOVED to argue with me about. This video needs to go viral, maybe they'll listen to you better than they ever did me.
I appreciate your videos. I beleive i have watched nearly everyone of them and then one from a year ago pops up. I have a new tractor and not looking to buy one, but I am looking for implements. You give a great pro vs con and then demonstrate them and give details to support your video.
Something most states will require on equipment now is the front loader and rear backhoe would need to have their own chain over the top of them so they can't raise up going down the road. It sounds stupid for some things but I do know its a rule for heavy equipment that we usually haul. I'd also add if you're going to get chain at least get some decent grade 70 stuff. There's lots of chain out there with lower or no ratings that is complete junk.
Neal, do a video of you delivering a new tractor to a customer's farm and start it with you loading the new tractor at your dealership and end it with you explaining everything to the farmer and leaving his farm.
Also add in how to start and drive a car. Apparently, people are so dumb these days they need instruction on how to breath and wipe their behind. If a customer request someone make a video on how to load a tractor onto a trailer, I'm embarrassed to own a tractor. There is no way in hell someone who needs this instruction NEEDS a tractor.
I drive truck for a living and know more than most on how to load a trailer but we all learned somehow unless your like @ten millimeter and were born with such skills
@@JC-1171 You probably didn't know that stupid people don't know they're stupid because they're stupid. I guess you didn't know that there are some people smarter than others. That's why you did so poorly in school you didn't win an academic scholarship to attend a college and no one offered you a chance to further your education of any kind. Don't get mad at others because they're more intelligent than you, just accept it and drive on.
There are many great companies that make bolt on tie down loops that make it way more convenient to secure your straps and tie/chain down your tractors. Well worth the money if you moving your equipment a lot
When ever I moved a backhoe I always put both buckets down and the stabilizers. With the backhoe bucket down it lowers the center of gravity and with the stabilizers down that eliminates side sway.
I always place thick blocks of wood way on the rear frame of the trailer whenever loading/unloading machines.... Keeps the trailer and truck suspension from moving as much with the transferring of weight, everything stiffer but each trailer is different.
Farming 4G watched you do that we did construction up until 08 and I have done some stupid stuff with a trailer for instance 953 cab and 4 in 1 bucket on a 15 ton trailer with a 1 ton dodge now I kept it on mostly weighted on the trailer and it was only 15 miles no hills just one job site to another but people that passed me had the weirdest looks of terror on there faces should have been a dodge commercial I guess
Single Clevis in draw bar isn’t legal. In MA at least. Needs to be 4 points and 4 separate binders. And I usually place blocks under the back of the trailer when unloading so not to put strain on the tongue or truck. I have done a lot of repairs on cracked dove tails and tongues from added stress when loading and unloading.
If the machine weighs 10,000 lbs or more it is a Federal law to have 4 points of contact on the machine. Plus a chain on each attachment. Loader gets one, and hoe gets one.
This is interesting conversation. My dealer's drivers both ran a chain through the loader frame (where the round tube is in the loader) and called that the front tie down, and two chains to the corner of the backhoe where there are tie down points, and then one chain across the backhoe bucket. They said they never had issues. I have read and heard other UA-camrs (I believe one may have been Tractor Mike) say that they were supposed to have 4 chains, then one for each implement (one backhoe and one loader). Is there official legislation or guides from the US DOT that anyone can point to on this? I have always been curious.
Also one question I do have for you welderboy525, I notice some trailers have jacks under the ramps when the ramps fold down. Does your trailer not have that, is that why you use the blocks? I agree even with my small utility trailer it puts a lot of stress when using the ramps, so it would make sense the use the blocks. I was just curious in the future if I ever get a trailer large enough for my tractor if the ramps with the jacks are worth the added weight and hassle.
Matt, google “ FMCSA Load Securment”. Scrole down 3 or so looking for . Gov as the address. You can alway call your states DOT for questions. Iowa has a driect # to the guys that write tickets. It’s cheaper to ask than take the chance.
Matt Jenkins the ramps with the legs on them don’t necessarily prevent the strain. The best set up I’ve seen and never had to repair are the ones with 2 jacks or legs on the back of the trailer. Unfortunately fixed legs on ramps aren’t always at the right height
Very interesting. Maybe at some point in the future you can show how you tie down with chains so as not to damage a new tractors finish or painted frame. My Kubota dealer used straps as you show however the previous large Massey I just sold the professional driver tied down with chains to travel cross country. Being an older tractor scratching was not an issue, but I would like to see how it is done with new paint for future use. Thanks for sharing. I watch all your videos and I can't compare anyone’s ability to explain things like you do.
It's hard to show that in a video. Every machine will have different anchor points. Like he mentioned, chasis points are always best. I tend to strap right to the axles in the back and the weight mount in front plus an additional strap to secure the bucket and loader. If you watch some videos made by DOT officers showing how to legally strap a load you'll learn alot. If you're worried about chain scratches on hook up points you can use axle straps. Or use old carpet where the chain would touch paintwork
There's no magic way to do that. A lot of times things end up getting scratched up. When you have room, are truck drivers do have rubber pads that they will stick between a chain in a machine. It's tough to find places that those fit well though.
Think about how many scratches it would get if it came off the trailer at speed. If small scratches from a chain bother you that much, get a can of touch up paint. You could always use "Axle Straps" they come in 2" width and 24-36" lengths typically. Then you anchor them with chains. 2" x 24" are typically rated at 10,000# each and due to their length should have minimal stretch, but I wouldn't go on a highway with them, certainly not an interstate. They typically have protective sleeves on them and will protect your precious tractor paint.
I'm in NEPA, a few hours from you guys. Here we need 4 points of contact on machine and trailer. Running through a clevis attached to the drawbar will not suffice for 2 points on your tractor. I worked at a competitive dealer/kubota for a few years, would have probably gotten in some trouble for recommending something like that. 4 points of contact on machine and trailer. Each attachment needs it's own, additional strap or chain. All weight appropriate. That TLB would need 4 points at the machine and 1 strap on the loader frame or bucket, and 1 on the digger. 6 total as per DOT.
I inspected shipments of heavy equipment going overseas on flatracks. One comment I would have is to cross lash your chains. Do not use one chain from one side of the trailer around a point on the tractor to the other side of the trailer. If your chain gets loose you have lost everything, when cross lashed with two separate lashings the securing forces work in your favor. For a better explanation of cargo securing you can look into "Annex 13" of the IMO Cargo Securing Manual regulations. You did make a lot of very good suggestions and I follow your lectures very closely.
@@celuler22 When you move equipment short distances, most any lashing will work. When you are sending equipment half way across the country or around the world, better minds than mine have determined that crossed lashings are better according to "Annex 13" of the IMO Cargo Securing Manual.
Really enjoyed this video Neil. I commonly use 3k ratchets for my BX25D, while my chains and binders lay in the garage. I may reconsider next time. Thanks!
I have an 18 ft landscape trailer that I built attachments just for it to load my tractor on. on the front I built a drop in style front brace that locks in my front tires from going forward and I built another attachment in the back that locks in the rear tires no chains or straps required however I do put a strap that hooks onto the loader bucket and onto the rear 3 point to keep the tractor from bouncing incase of an accident.
You Should check to see what your state laws are on how many tie downs you need per weight and Length of trailer since some states are every 7 feet or 10,000 lbs or 10 feet or 10,000 lbs
The only thing I did not hear you mention was the gain on the trailer brakes. Setting the gain properly for the amount of weight that you are pulling is very important.
I know this is an older video, but I’ve been looking for adaptation for front chain down point on the MX models. In Texas you have to have 4 chains for the load. Straps for attachments are allowed. I want to add a d ring to front weight rack but can’t find a bolt on option to do this. Chaining the FEL doesn’t meet requirements.
One good spot in the back is where the drawbar slides into the frame, take the drawbar out and put the chain through the hole there, if there is not hole use a shackle on the end of the drawbar. For the front if you don't want to scratch any paint fish the chain through the cross tube of the loader.
I'll run a light cargo strap across the hood... to ensure the hood stays closed. Not overly tight. Heavy bungee cord tight. The tractor is designed for its max speed, not freeways speed and I don't want to lose the hood. . EVERYTHING gets at least a strap. Even the bucket when you don't have quick attach. This is in addition to the chains to tie the tractor on the trailer. I have never been sorry I added that extra strap or chain. I have been sorry I didn't add another. When in doubt add 2 more.
One tip I found on loading a trailer, make sure your truck is in neutral, if an auto transmission, and put the parking brake on also use blocks under the rear wheels. Reason for putting the truck in neutral is to prevent damage to the transmission.
Hi, what model is the tractor in this video? I am a newbie and was surprised to see a backhoe on such a small tractor. So what model is it? Thanks for the wonderful informative videos!
2x10's or 12's. 4x4 or 6x6 as well aid in departure and incline angles. Every delivery is WAY different. TSC sells Bulldog 5k Jack's. You can put them on your trailer to aid in loading and offloading equipment. Can also make them quick attach/detach. No such thing as too much securment.
Ratchet straps all the way for me. One big mistake people make is overtightening them. If your 3000lb ratchet strap already has 2000lb of tension static, you have it too tight. Also, any equipment needs to have 4 straps, not two. Had that RTV been chained down, the chain likely would have broken as well. Chains don't take shock loads very well, and that must have been one hell of a shock load. Rathcet straps will absorb that shock much better.
In my tractor instructions it says to back the tractor on the trailer because the tractor is heaviest on the back! Having said that I never saw a tractor on a trailer that was backed on. What say you?
I have a L-2501 and ordered the Backhoe and a sub frame a week after getting My tractor package on a 18 foot trailer with 4 foot ramps with an angle deck like the one in this video From the first time unloading and loading I have had issues with the implement hitting the ground even the Boxblade and the Rotary Cutter but especially the Backhoe I was able to adjust the top link of the 3 point so the Implements did not snag the ends of the ramps when I load, but I did not pay attention to the clearance of the Quick connect handles on the 3 Point and they broke My tail lights when it was raised all the way up I have only done this on dirt and it really plows the ground with the under carriage of the Backhoe The ground gets tore up pretty bad as it hits and then drags on the ground I am thinking of loading the tractor backwards so the Implements/Backhoe rise first and the FEL is only high enough to clear hitting the ground My first choice was get longer ramps, but when I look at the real ground clearance under Backhoe lateral pivot assembly those ramps are probably going to require being 10 feet long I have not tried it yet so I am asking if You have tried it and did You have a good center of gravity and proper tongue loading and what clearance issues did You get when raising the ramps for transport I am wondering if towing it backwards is any different than it facing forward once it is chained down I called the dealer and when they called Me back they said they just put a BLOCK of WOOD under the rear of the trailer I understand the geometry of the rear of the trailer and putting blocks under it to keep it from sagging will keep the angle of the ramps set so the rear does not lower closer to the ground I haven't tried that idea but They said they do it all the time I think that is full of B.S. It already drags & snags the ramps and it will keep doing it with the Block idea My main concerns are the weight distribution on the trailer over he axles and the tongue weight Thanks Ken in Florida
I asked my dealer if the weight of 1570 pounds was all the tractor including the backhoe and loader. I think it is short of the actual number. Do you have an actual weight for the BX23s including 2 quick disconnect loader and backhoe?
@@MessicksEquip That doesn't add up to the numbers either. No matter how I add the 10%, I can't shake the numbers not adding up. Even looking in the owners manual, it states 1570 pounds for the tractor. No mention of backhoe or bucket. Reason I want the actual number is to see if I have to update the floor of my existing tractor shed .
Would a L2501 with loader and box blade and filled tires be too heavy for a utility gate that is beefed up? Im not so much worried about the gate as the Hinges. Axles are 5200lb tandom so no issue there.
Probably good idea to borrow a trailer and take your fully loaded tractor to a weigh station and weigh it to make sure it weighs what you think it weighs before buying your own trailer. Friend of mine did that with his 1 ton truck and Lance truck camper.
Nothing wrong with using straps if you know what you're doing. Study FMCSA rules, they tell you the bare minimum legal standard to get on the road. Chains and ratchet binders are definitely easier and often preferable for mobile equipment.
You can get 10 ton rated straps no problem...military uses them all the time for securing aircraft and payloads, should be sufficient for a compact tractor...much easier to secure with them.
I like your new lancaster complex. Hey feel free to practice loading and unloading at camp freedom. You can even park it there with keys in it. Haha Lord knows i could use a subcompact. Lords also knows i can't afford one either haha. Love the videos
Ya I have done the same with the truck lifting from the trailer when my drop legs I put on at the back were stuck by the pin. Almost slid my 3/4 ton into the ditch on the side of the road I was parked on when loading my friends john deere skid loader of about 8400lbs
I had one time where the trailer with the bosses Mahindra eMax 25, didn't feel quite right on the road that had a speed limit of 30 MPH. Pulled over and just moved the tractor maybe 6 inches further forward and the truck felt more sure footed. The road t's into the main road that has a speed limit of 55 MPH but since it has been widened to 4 lane with left turn lane, people speed going 60 to 66 MPH. Hate to have it fish tail there. Also to tie it down we found at Autozone two shorter straps about 2 feet long with triangle loops on the ends. It also has a black cover that protects the yellow strap. We loop it around the front axles, one for each side and then use strap from those to the loops on the trailer. Just google for Axle strap to find it. They don't fit around the rear axle, so we just use one strap from side to side through the 3 point currently. Trying to find a better way though. All straps are 3,300 Lbs or higher rated.
Nadine Ouellette ya you are fine as long as you don’t bend any steering links. Think of it this way, it holds the weight of the tractor, it will be fine to hold it from moving.
Regarding weight and loading a trailer where it lifts the back of your truck off the ground: Consider a 7,000-pound tractor being loaded on a dual axle trailer. Each axle is rated for 3500 pounds and you feel safe. But when your 7000-pound tractor is lifting the back end of your truck up by pivoting on the rear axle, you now have 14000 pounds pushing down on only one axle rated for 3500 pounds. 7,000 pounds from the tractor pushing down and another 7,000 pounds pushing down as it balances the force on the truck side. The front axle of the trailer is lifted in the air and not supporting any of that weight. Anyone ever see an axle snap like that? Jacks or wooden blocks in the back as you load would support that weight and limit the weight on your back axle.
@@trevorlynch6549 Think about a see saw. One 50 pound kid sits on one side and the other side goes up in the air and his end hits the ground and only 25 pounds is felt by the pivot point or axle (25 pounds is supported by the ground and 25 pounds by the axle). Another 50 pound kid comes by and gets on the other end. There is now 50 pounds on each end that the axle is supporting which makes it 100 pounds in total. The same thing with a truck pulling down on the tongue. Whatever weight is pulling down on one side is pulling down on the other side of the axle with equal force. The way to prevent this excessive force is to put supports on the trailer ramps so your axle only has to support 1/2 the weight of your load instead of two times the weight. All heavy duty trailers have this support for this very reason.
I must have went to sleep and missed some important tips about the best hooks for the chains and where to fasten to the trailer and how. Regulations are different in different areas. Some places require crossed chains, some, any attachments must be fastened down,some require four or more chains and likely i missed more than I mentioned. Food for thought.
I've always been very nervous about transporting so any service I need I trust my dealer to pick up & return my tractor also I have Ktac policy paid up.
Strap should never be used to transport wheeled or tracked machinery. Chains only should be used. Always make sure chains are pulling away from the machine not straight down from the machine.
...Not mentioned here is to block up/jack up the rear of the trailer when loading & unloading, It keeps the tongue weight more stable so not to damage truck or trailer hitch components.
Is there a best practice to transport the tractor forward or backwards? Should I be concerned with 45-50 MPH winds on the tractor radiator if towing forwards? Another great video!
No to both questions. You just want the load balanced. If your concerned with weight balance, measure the rear bumper height unloaded, then loaded. You want to see a difference where when loaded the height is less. There's no magic number, but say 3" or so. Too much tongue weight is not a good thing either.
Jason Hendrix absolutely. Think about the physics. If deck height is higher than center of gravity of tractor and ramps are short, any sudden acceleration loading or quick breaking unloading could easily upend the front of tractor. Of course all is dependent on type of trailer/tractor combination, but why take that chance. All it takes is one time.
Being a trailer with electric brakes, it may be a good idea to pull the disconnect and let the battery on the trailer activate the trailer brakes for both stability and to save jerking on the tow vehicle drive train
I was told that in NC all 4 corners need to be tied with something rated for 50% of the total weight. Also implements, even if attached, must also be strapped down including FEL and mowers etc. Either ratchet straps or chains rated at a min of 50% are fine. For my small equipment I use 1/4” gr70 chain and binders and 3” straps for implements.
I rented a small backhoe and tilt trailer one time from an equipment rental place when I was out of town. Because the chain binders weren't lubed, it took me about a half hour just to remove the stupid things. I knew I should of brought my straps.
Make sure gooseneck is actually attached to the truck before loading a m6060, I watched a former delivery driver stand trailer and tractor almost straight up, and no I was inside dealership and didn't know trailer wasn't hooked up or I would of said something.
How long of a trailer are you using in that video? I'm hopefully going to be getting a BX in the next month or two and will need to get a trailer. Thanks
Also, as you mentioned the weights that i'm seeing for the tractor and implements are "shipping" weight. Ruffly how much does the tractor weigh in the video? That's what I'm looking to purchase.
If only tractor manufacturers put tie down points on there machines like on industrial equiptment got a brand new m110 gx kubota at work a few months ago and it arived with pre scratched and rusted front axles because the transport company that dropped it off to the dealer put chains over the front axle.
Logan Stansell we got a 110 horse kubota this year and also have a 125 both dont have tie down points neither did the john deere it might be a utility tractor thing not to have them.
You forgot to mention to make sure that the tongue is latched onto the ball before loading. It's not fun when loading your Kubota M-6040 and the 32' gooseneck trailer looks more like a launch pad than a trailer and then rolls into your tailgate on your 5 month old truck. Lessons learned though now I always triple check the coupler and I make sure I always load in 4 wheel drive.
Don't feel bad 2005 dodge ram 3500 2 days of ownership when bought new in march of 05 truck had 18 miles on it when it left the dealer and had 30 miles on it when I forgot to lock the trailer to the truck and completely dug into the tailgate with the trailer.. ALWAYS check that the trailer is LOCKED TO THE TRUCK FIRST.
I would really agree and say I see most mistakes on tongue weight throughout pickup truck transporting. It could mean life or death if you go down the road with a tractor sitting on the rear of the trailer pulling up on the pickup hitch. I know afew guys who have had there trucks jackknife when they went to stop because the trailer was lifting up on the drive wheels.
Kubota needs to have a compliance plate with the weight, i don't care about it's shipping weight, i need to know weight with radiator fluid and engine/hydro oil full, and all implements need weights on a compliance plate too.
Agree with Farming 4G about the wheel chocks (scotch blocks) and to add to that you should never load equipment on a trailer pulled by a pick-up DOWN HILL. when the weight comes off the drive wheels of the towing vehicle you can find yourself drifting down hill uncontrollably. Always load UP HILL if you can't load on level ground. Unloading, as Neal described, is just the opposite. Never brake the tractor if you find yourself in a drifting situation, get the weight back on the trailer tong as quickly as possible to allow the towing vehicle to settle back down on the ground.
The first thing he said there, about overloaded trailers: I see that ALL THE TIME around here: Overloaded trailers _and_ trucks. I've seen a gooseneck flatbed with a skid-steer being hauled by a half ton, and I've seen a full-size backhoe on a two 7,000 lb axle trailer being hauled by an 02 one ton dodge dually, which is probably about 20,000 lbs gross on a trailer probably rated for 16,000 lbs gross, best case, pulled by a truck with a tow rating of at most 12,000 lbs.
Four chains and ratchet binders and don't rely on the tires staying inflated to keep the chains tight. When you have to lock the brakes up because someone pulled into the street in front of you you don't want the tractor in your back seat.
Chock your trailer!!! Wheel Chocks save lives! Your experience with the rig moving would not have happened had you chocked the trailer wheels. Other than that, good advice. Remember 10% tongue weight is where J2807 calculates all towing standards now. You want at least 10% on the truck and up to 15% is the limit. A 7K trailer should have a minimum of 700 pounds on the truck.
I will never use straps to hual equipment. At one of my jobs i following behind the other crew truck that hualing a john deere compact tractors probably about the same size as the ine in video. But as we went down this back road the tractors was bouncing. Now the wheels never came and it was only the shocks that where moving, but one the older guys who had been at this company for 15 years said that hes had that same machine almost fall off. It ended up moving forward and getting stuck on the tounge of the trailer or something. But if he had used chains that would of never happened. Idk but the boss refused to used chains for that machine even though we had chains to use!
Hey Kubota - maybe add anchor points on tractors ?
Yes.
And all the other manufactures as well. I am not a big government guy but this seems something that should be a regulation! If my tractor comes loose and falls on your car it will be a bad day for sure!!!
I had to pay 300 for hooks. What a scam. When they delivered it, the guy unhooked it so quick I have no idea where he had it strapped at
My Dad went to a local r.v. dealer and purchased 2 screw type jack stands. We put them under each back corner of the trailer for both loading and unloading. By them being in place it won't allow the weight of the tractor or whatever to be able to lift up on the hitch and tongue. They are pretty simple but they work extremely well. Wouldn't be with out them.
Gary Fox, Iowa
I do the same
Did the same thing on my 18 foot haul trailer many, many years ago, welded swivel jacks on both rear corners, keeps the trailer and tow vehicle level when unloading or loading equipment.
@@forrestanderson2652 you'd think trailer manufacturers would offer those as add-ons.
@@ChronicBongitis420 0
@@ChronicBongitis420 They do.
I was actually looking for recommended tie down points for a BX23S, but this was still helpful! I have been using ratchet straps. As they age and wear, I will have to seriously consider upgrading to chains.
I roll around in a Tacoma with a 7K tandem axle auto hauler. I have learned to be very conscious of weight limits and distribution. Properly setup, it tows a 4K payload comfortably and efficiently. Get it a little wrong, and it will wreck the suspension and/or cause a wreck.
You need to be conscious of limits on:
- Trailer GVW: Trailer + payload
- Trailer hitch weight: portion of the trailer GVW carried by the truck
- Truck GVW: Truck + cargo + passengers + hitch weight
- Truck GCVW: Truck + cargo + passengers + Trailer GVW
- Individual axle weights: The balance of the load on the truck
It is easy to stay well within the trailer GVWR and the Truck's GCVWR, but still be overweight on the hitch, the truck, or a truck axle - or simply be dangerously imbalanced.
I highly recommend liberal use of CAT scales, which are usually located at truck stops. Their app makes it inexpensive, fast, and super informative. You get front axle weight, rear axle weight and combined trailer axle. Learning how to balance the load properly, I did three weigh ins:
1. Truck + cargo + passengers
2. Truck + cargo + passengers + trailer. If needed, shift the trailer load and repeat.
3. Truck + cargo + passengers + trailer w/ weight distribution. Adjust bars and repeat if needed.
The first weigh in gives you the trucks initial GVW: front axle + rear axle.
The second weigh in gives you:
- GCVW: Front axle + rear axle + trailer axles
- Trailer GVW: GCVW minus the initial GVW of the truck.
- Hitch weight: Front axle + rear axle minus initial GVW of the truck.
With the information from the second weigh in, you can shift the load forward to add hitch weight or backwards to reduce hitch weight. The hitch weight should be 10-20% of the GVW. I prefer to be close to 12-15%, but if I am pushing the limits, then I have to be at 10-11% to make all of the numbers work.
The third weigh in is all about the balance of the truck. Without weight distribution, the rear axle of the truck will carry all of the load on the hitch, and the front end will teeter totter up. You lose directional stability and control. Adding tension to a weight distribution system shifts hitch weight from the rear axle of the truck toward the front axle. The goal in adjusting the weight distribution is to get the front axle to carry some of the load: The rear axle should carry most of the load, but the front axle should have at least as much weight as it did without the trailer. As the load approaches the limits of the truck, you should also approach (but not exceed) the limit of the front axle.
I have also weighed in with an empty trailer and taken ride height measurements empty and loaded. Knowing the empty weights and checking the ride height while loading helps me estimate the weights as I load, so that I do not have to make adjustments when I get to the scales - or even do all three weigh ins. The truck doesn't change much, so one weigh in will confirm that I did not make any serious mistakes. If I am borderline on anything, then I do all three.
To avoid the mishap you had unloading - for loading & unloading, I use a chocks and a pedal depressor to apply the brakes (a person is better than a pedal depressor, but the stick never complains about the task). I leave the truck running for the brake pressure, pull the parking break, and put the truck in neutral to protect the parking gear. This gives me the truck parking brake (as a backup to the pedal depressor), all four truck wheel brakes and all four trailer brakes with the chocks as a backup to all of that.
Great info, thanks for taking the time to write it!
I wanted to say thanks. If I lived in Pennsylvania or had more time, I would have bought my tractor from you, but I'm in Virginia and needed my tractor quickly.
However, your videos have been a great help to me in determining my tractor choice. Very informative and helpful. I just purchased my L6060 and I couldn't be happier! Thank you!
Field service engineer/fitter here. Seen a lot of amusing incident regarding plant and trailers.
I always load the plant into the trailer backwards much easier driving off forward when you can see what your doing.
Secondly chock your wheels on the trailer and usually the rear wheels of the tow vehicle.
Thirdly, Always lash in a "X" pattern front and rear with bracing straps/chains on the side of the machine. That way stops it moving forward, backwards and takes any lateral movement out.
Being from the UK it always amazes me how you can move such big things with such little trucks.
Hey NEAL why don’t Kubota put hook up on all four corners of the trim of the tractor so you can pull your chain through like an O-ring hook up or just the middle plate that’s been up with a whole big enough to pull a cheat group just a question I love to hear your answer
No idea.
@@MessicksEquip no, NEAL you were supposed to say Great idea
@@lcswartz49 Lol. Yes. Everything should have tie downs.
Again, you post a video just in time to help me make an informed purchase. I've been utility trailer shopping all week for my B3350HSDC. I'm glad you mentioned the departure angle. My backhoe has the extension on it for the rearward facing seat due to the enclosed cab. I may need to stick to a low boy with protruding fenders to keep my ingress/egress ramp angle shallow.
Go to harbor freight and buy a 3” dia discharge hose (for a pump). Cut it into what ever lengths needed and slip it over your tie down straps or chains to help protect the tractor paint and protect the straps from cuts over edges. The hose lengths can obviously slide wherever needed and for safety inspection of your straps or chains because you should!
Always feel like Mac from Always Sunny in Philadelphia is trying to talk to me about tractors when I watch your videos
flynryanR6 first of all through god, all things are possible, so jot that down.
I think Neil's much better looking.
Tip on backing off, I but oak blocks under the very back of my trailer right under where the ramp connects to the trailer and it stops the front of the trailer from rising when you back off the trailer
oak rounds good too.
If using straps I get some old fire dept water hose & cut it up in pieces & slide it over the strap in the spots where it contacts the tractor frame to prevent chaffing.
Wow a week ago I asked for this video and here it is! Props to you Neil! Can't wait to come out and see you guys.
Just a comment on the clevis in drawbar with a chain running thru it, can actually let machine slide sideways.Better to use two separate chains and binders.Speaking from experience at work had a track digger slide on trailer running a single chain.
I agree. I had a tractor tied down this way, and work rainy and wet deck boards the tractor slid over and started rubbing tractor tire on trailer tire. I saw the smoke soon after it happened. I needed binders and straps to pull up the slip caused by road crown to get her back in place. I won't tie like that again.
Farm style tractors are more stable if backed up ramps onto a trailer. Can get very dangerous facing the other way around if you gas it going up, or hit the brakes when backing down.
@@pageleftblankintentionally Yes, if it is two wheel drive and that heavy loader lifts the rears you would not have brakes. So yes, a heavy FEL is a situation to go on forward.
I'm hauling a 65 year old Ferguson tractor tomorrow, so this was good to see. thanks!
Another thing to think about is your height. Especially if you are using a complete deck over trailer like your, particularly if it’s a higher GVW you’ll have taller tires. Check the height of the ROPS not to exceed 13feet. A BX ROPS are close to 7’ by themselves. It’s not unheard of to have a 3’ deck height. So little to no worries, but stepping into the B series, and especially the L you start getting up there in height.
Um I thought you would actually show us tie in down the tractor. Oh, and it would be nice if tractor manufacturers would put designated tie down hooks or loops on the tractor clearly painted so you can easily hook or strap to it.
I have a L3301 w/ Backhoe and there is no good place to tie down to, especially with chains. I’d hate to scratch that pretty orange paint off.
@@stephengmeiner3264 buy a welder a make some hooks
Buy some axle straps and D-rings/shackles/cleaves. Be cautious as you add items in the tie down as that single tie down will be rated on working load limit (WLL) to the rating of the lowest rated item in the loop. Depending on the length and structure of the axle strap, they can be used in lots of ways
Also make sure you tie down with the legal amount of straps. and that you are not driving a vehicle with trailer whose GVWR requires you to have a CDL.
Another good tip when loading and unloading a machine on a hill, it is helpful to to put the truck in 4 wheeler drive, put in park and lock the parking brake. Then if the back of the truck comes off the ground it will not roll away. It has happened to me a few time, always was fast about getting on the trailer.
Always engage the 4wd on the truck when loading/unloading and set the parking brake (in gear and off if standard). If 2wd, chock the front wheels. Another mistake I’ve seen many times is loading/unloading with the trailer jackknifed which will lead to the truck moving even if everything else is done correctly.
Neil, I could damn near kiss you for making this video. It's one of the things people in Facebook groups LOVED to argue with me about.
This video needs to go viral, maybe they'll listen to you better than they ever did me.
I appreciate your videos. I beleive i have watched nearly everyone of them and then one from a year ago pops up. I have a new tractor and not looking to buy one, but I am looking for implements. You give a great pro vs con and then demonstrate them and give details to support your video.
Something most states will require on equipment now is the front loader and rear backhoe would need to have their own chain over the top of them so they can't raise up going down the road. It sounds stupid for some things but I do know its a rule for heavy equipment that we usually haul. I'd also add if you're going to get chain at least get some decent grade 70 stuff. There's lots of chain out there with lower or no ratings that is complete junk.
Neal, do a video of you delivering a new tractor to a customer's farm and start it with you loading the new tractor at your dealership and end it with you explaining everything to the farmer and leaving his farm.
I'll second that idea.
Also add in how to start and drive a car. Apparently, people are so dumb these days they need instruction on how to breath and wipe their behind. If a customer request someone make a video on how to load a tractor onto a trailer, I'm embarrassed to own a tractor. There is no way in hell someone who needs this instruction NEEDS a tractor.
Ten Millimeter someone’s having a bad day :( aww
I drive truck for a living and know more than most on how to load a trailer but we all learned somehow unless your like @ten millimeter and were born with such skills
@@JC-1171 You probably didn't know that stupid people don't know they're stupid because they're stupid. I guess you didn't know that there are some people smarter than others. That's why you did so poorly in school you didn't win an academic scholarship to attend a college and no one offered you a chance to further your education of any kind. Don't get mad at others because they're more intelligent than you, just accept it and drive on.
There are many great companies that make bolt on tie down loops that make it way more convenient to secure your straps and tie/chain down your tractors. Well worth the money if you moving your equipment a lot
When ever I moved a backhoe I always put both buckets down and the stabilizers. With the backhoe bucket down it lowers the center of gravity and with the stabilizers down that eliminates side sway.
i have set of jack stands that i put under rear edge of my dump trailer, keeps strain off tow ball when loading&unloading.
I always place thick blocks of wood way on the rear frame of the trailer whenever loading/unloading machines.... Keeps the trailer and truck suspension from moving as much with the transferring of weight, everything stiffer but each trailer is different.
Farming 4G good idea
Farming 4G watched you do that we did construction up until 08 and I have done some stupid stuff with a trailer for instance 953 cab and 4 in 1 bucket on a 15 ton trailer with a 1 ton dodge now I kept it on mostly weighted on the trailer and it was only 15 miles no hills just one job site to another but people that passed me had the weirdest looks of terror on there faces should have been a dodge commercial I guess
Bloopers make it better.
Found a dealer that has package deals of tractor, loader, mower and trailer.
Good way to get a trailer that can haul the tractor.
I liked the video a lot! I also enjoy the mail truck doing Mach 1 behind you 😂
Single Clevis in draw bar isn’t legal. In MA at least. Needs to be 4 points and 4 separate binders. And I usually place blocks under the back of the trailer when unloading so not to put strain on the tongue or truck. I have done a lot of repairs on cracked dove tails and tongues from added stress when loading and unloading.
If the machine weighs 10,000 lbs or more it is a Federal law to have 4 points of contact on the machine.
Plus a chain on each attachment. Loader gets one, and hoe gets one.
This is interesting conversation. My dealer's drivers both ran a chain through the loader frame (where the round tube is in the loader) and called that the front tie down, and two chains to the corner of the backhoe where there are tie down points, and then one chain across the backhoe bucket. They said they never had issues. I have read and heard other UA-camrs (I believe one may have been Tractor Mike) say that they were supposed to have 4 chains, then one for each implement (one backhoe and one loader). Is there official legislation or guides from the US DOT that anyone can point to on this? I have always been curious.
Also one question I do have for you welderboy525, I notice some trailers have jacks under the ramps when the ramps fold down. Does your trailer not have that, is that why you use the blocks? I agree even with my small utility trailer it puts a lot of stress when using the ramps, so it would make sense the use the blocks. I was just curious in the future if I ever get a trailer large enough for my tractor if the ramps with the jacks are worth the added weight and hassle.
Matt, google “ FMCSA Load Securment”. Scrole down 3 or so looking for . Gov as the address. You can alway call your states DOT for questions. Iowa has a driect # to the guys that write tickets.
It’s cheaper to ask than take the chance.
Matt Jenkins the ramps with the legs on them don’t necessarily prevent the strain. The best set up I’ve seen and never had to repair are the ones with 2 jacks or legs on the back of the trailer. Unfortunately fixed legs on ramps aren’t always at the right height
Very interesting. Maybe at some point in the future you can show how you tie down with chains so as not to damage a new tractors finish or painted frame. My Kubota dealer used straps as you show however the previous large Massey I just sold the professional driver tied down with chains to travel cross country. Being an older tractor scratching was not an issue, but I would like to see how it is done with new paint for future use. Thanks for sharing. I watch all your videos and I can't compare anyone’s ability to explain things like you do.
It's hard to show that in a video. Every machine will have different anchor points. Like he mentioned, chasis points are always best. I tend to strap right to the axles in the back and the weight mount in front plus an additional strap to secure the bucket and loader. If you watch some videos made by DOT officers showing how to legally strap a load you'll learn alot. If you're worried about chain scratches on hook up points you can use axle straps. Or use old carpet where the chain would touch paintwork
I would also love to see this.
There's no magic way to do that. A lot of times things end up getting scratched up. When you have room, are truck drivers do have rubber pads that they will stick between a chain in a machine. It's tough to find places that those fit well though.
Straps are not legal in most states for binding equipment. Check with your state before using straps.
Think about how many scratches it would get if it came off the trailer at speed. If small scratches from a chain bother you that much, get a can of touch up paint. You could always use "Axle Straps" they come in 2" width and 24-36" lengths typically. Then you anchor them with chains. 2" x 24" are typically rated at 10,000# each and due to their length should have minimal stretch, but I wouldn't go on a highway with them, certainly not an interstate. They typically have protective sleeves on them and will protect your precious tractor paint.
Don't forget to be aware of how tall your tractor is on the trailer, especially with the ROPS up.
I'm in NEPA, a few hours from you guys. Here we need 4 points of contact on machine and trailer. Running through a clevis attached to the drawbar will not suffice for 2 points on your tractor. I worked at a competitive dealer/kubota for a few years, would have probably gotten in some trouble for recommending something like that.
4 points of contact on machine and trailer. Each attachment needs it's own, additional strap or chain. All weight appropriate.
That TLB would need 4 points at the machine and 1 strap on the loader frame or bucket, and 1 on the digger. 6 total as per DOT.
Do you have a video on loading a batwing and tractor on a trailer? Moving a 15’ mower is an involved process i would like to learn more about.
I inspected shipments of heavy equipment going overseas on flatracks. One comment I would have is to cross lash your chains. Do not use one chain from one side of the trailer around a point on the tractor to the other side of the trailer. If your chain gets loose you have lost everything, when cross lashed with two separate lashings the securing forces work in your favor. For a better explanation of cargo securing you can look into "Annex 13" of the IMO Cargo Securing Manual regulations. You did make a lot of very good suggestions and I follow your lectures very closely.
I prefer straight chains 2 fowards two 2⃣ back when u cross them I'd one breaks the load can shift left and right
@@celuler22 When you move equipment short distances, most any lashing will work. When you are sending equipment half way across the country or around the world, better minds than mine have determined that crossed lashings are better according to "Annex 13" of the IMO Cargo Securing Manual.
Really enjoyed this video Neil. I commonly use 3k ratchets for my BX25D, while my chains and binders lay in the garage. I may reconsider next time. Thanks!
I have an 18 ft landscape trailer that I built attachments just for it to load my tractor on. on the front I built a drop in style front brace that locks in my front tires from going forward and I built another attachment in the back that locks in the rear tires no chains or straps required however I do put a strap that hooks onto the loader bucket and onto the rear 3 point to keep the tractor from bouncing incase of an accident.
You Should check to see what your state laws are on how many tie downs you need per weight and Length of trailer since some states are every 7 feet or 10,000 lbs or 10 feet or 10,000 lbs
The only thing I did not hear you mention was the gain on the trailer brakes. Setting the gain properly for the amount of weight that you are pulling is very important.
I know this is an older video, but I’ve been looking for adaptation for front chain down point on the MX models. In Texas you have to have 4 chains for the load. Straps for attachments are allowed.
I want to add a d ring to front weight rack but can’t find a bolt on option to do this. Chaining the FEL doesn’t meet requirements.
Maybe u could show us the anchor points on the tractor that your talking about....
One good spot in the back is where the drawbar slides into the frame, take the drawbar out and put the chain through the hole there, if there is not hole use a shackle on the end of the drawbar. For the front if you don't want to scratch any paint fish the chain through the cross tube of the loader.
I'll run a light cargo strap across the hood... to ensure the hood stays closed. Not overly tight. Heavy bungee cord tight.
The tractor is designed for its max speed, not freeways speed and I don't want to lose the hood.
.
EVERYTHING gets at least a strap. Even the bucket when you don't have quick attach. This is in addition to the chains to tie the tractor on the trailer.
I have never been sorry I added that extra strap or chain. I have been sorry I didn't add another. When in doubt add 2 more.
One tip I found on loading a trailer, make sure your truck is in neutral, if an auto transmission, and put the parking brake on also use blocks under the rear wheels. Reason for putting the truck in neutral is to prevent damage to the transmission.
what about how the backhoe should be positioned? Should it be lowered to the floor or left in the air with the lock on?
Hi, what model is the tractor in this video? I am a newbie and was surprised to see a backhoe on such a small tractor. So what model is it? Thanks for the wonderful informative videos!
Bx23s
Fold mirrors in on kubota cab tractors so you dont bust a side glass out. Heard of it happening
2x10's or 12's. 4x4 or 6x6 as well aid in departure and incline angles. Every delivery is WAY different. TSC sells Bulldog 5k Jack's. You can put them on your trailer to aid in loading and offloading equipment. Can also make them quick attach/detach. No such thing as too much securment.
I noticed Kioti backhoe attachment is set close to 1-2 feet further back and a weird hook up.
Ratchet straps all the way for me. One big mistake people make is overtightening them. If your 3000lb ratchet strap already has 2000lb of tension static, you have it too tight. Also, any equipment needs to have 4 straps, not two.
Had that RTV been chained down, the chain likely would have broken as well. Chains don't take shock loads very well, and that must have been one hell of a shock load. Rathcet straps will absorb that shock much better.
In my tractor instructions it says to back the tractor on the trailer because the tractor is heaviest on the back! Having said that I never saw a tractor on a trailer that was backed on. What say you?
I have a L-2501 and ordered the Backhoe and a sub frame a week after getting My tractor package on a 18 foot trailer with 4 foot ramps with an angle deck like the one in this video
From the first time unloading and loading I have had issues with the implement hitting the ground even the Boxblade and the Rotary Cutter but especially the Backhoe
I was able to adjust the top link of the 3 point so the Implements did not snag the ends of the ramps when I load, but I did not pay attention to the clearance of the Quick connect handles on the 3 Point and they broke My tail lights when it was raised all the way up
I have only done this on dirt and it really plows the ground with the under carriage of the Backhoe
The ground gets tore up pretty bad as it hits and then drags on the ground
I am thinking of loading the tractor backwards so the Implements/Backhoe rise first and the FEL is only high enough to clear hitting the ground
My first choice was get longer ramps, but when I look at the real ground clearance under Backhoe lateral pivot assembly those ramps are probably going to require being 10 feet long
I have not tried it yet so I am asking if You have tried it and did You have a good center of gravity and proper tongue loading and what clearance issues did You get when raising the ramps for transport
I am wondering if towing it backwards is any different than it facing forward once it is chained down
I called the dealer and when they called Me back they said they just put a BLOCK of WOOD under the rear of the trailer
I understand the geometry of the rear of the trailer and putting blocks under it to keep it from sagging will keep the angle of the ramps set so the rear does not lower closer to the ground
I haven't tried that idea but They said they do it all the time
I think that is full of B.S.
It already drags & snags the ramps and it will keep doing it with the Block idea
My main concerns are the weight distribution on the trailer over he axles and the tongue weight
Thanks
Ken in Florida
I asked my dealer if the weight of 1570 pounds was all the tractor including the backhoe and loader. I think it is short of the actual number. Do you have an actual weight for the BX23s including 2 quick disconnect loader and backhoe?
Add 10% to the spec sheets.
@@MessicksEquip That doesn't add up to the numbers either. No matter how I add the 10%, I can't shake the numbers not adding up.
Even looking in the owners manual, it states 1570 pounds for the tractor. No mention of backhoe or bucket.
Reason I want the actual number is to see if I have to update the floor of my existing tractor shed .
@@danyf3116 There is no way to accurately do it to the pound on paper.
Did he tie down the tractor? I missed that part.
Where should I attach my chains to the rear of a bx23s with hoe attached?
there are tie downs on the backhoe
Want to get a Kubota 3350hd but also a small tipper like a Hino 300 2tonne. Will it do the job without needing a seperate trailor you think? Thanks
Would a L2501 with loader and box blade and filled tires be too heavy for a utility gate that is beefed up? Im not so much worried about the gate as the Hinges. Axles are 5200lb tandom so no issue there.
Likly. We used to use mesh ramp trailers, they did not hold up but we use them daily
Probably good idea to borrow a trailer and take your fully loaded tractor to a weigh station and weigh it to make sure it weighs what you think it weighs before buying your own trailer. Friend of mine did that with his 1 ton truck and Lance truck camper.
As others have said: It’s better to back UR equipment up onto the trailer & support the rear of trailer while doing do.
I thank you very much for your info, I always watch folks talking about this kind of stuff.
Nothing wrong with using straps if you know what you're doing. Study FMCSA rules, they tell you the bare minimum legal standard to get on the road. Chains and ratchet binders are definitely easier and often preferable for mobile equipment.
You can get 10 ton rated straps no problem...military uses them all the time for securing aircraft and payloads, should be sufficient for a compact tractor...much easier to secure with them.
I like your new lancaster complex. Hey feel free to practice loading and unloading at camp freedom. You can even park it there with keys in it. Haha Lord knows i could use a subcompact. Lords also knows i can't afford one either haha. Love the videos
Ya I have done the same with the truck lifting from the trailer when my drop legs I put on at the back were stuck by the pin. Almost slid my 3/4 ton into the ditch on the side of the road I was parked on when loading my friends john deere skid loader of about 8400lbs
What's a clevis? What's a draw bar? Where are these?
I had one time where the trailer with the bosses Mahindra eMax 25, didn't feel quite right on the road that had a speed limit of 30 MPH. Pulled over and just moved the tractor maybe 6 inches further forward and the truck felt more sure footed. The road t's into the main road that has a speed limit of 55 MPH but since it has been widened to 4 lane with left turn lane, people speed going 60 to 66 MPH. Hate to have it fish tail there.
Also to tie it down we found at Autozone two shorter straps about 2 feet long with triangle loops on the ends. It also has a black cover that protects the yellow strap. We loop it around the front axles, one for each side and then use strap from those to the loops on the trailer. Just google for Axle strap to find it. They don't fit around the rear axle, so we just use one strap from side to side through the 3 point currently. Trying to find a better way though. All straps are 3,300 Lbs or higher rated.
What size chain do you think is appropriate for a BX23S?
Split deck trailers are so much nicer to load !
Glad I am an Orange 🍊 club member! Nice job Neil!
How much does the kubota bx23s weigh with the backhoe and loader?
Can you go around the front axle? For some reason I'm worried that that would be unnecessary strain on the axle.
Nadine Ouellette ya you are fine as long as you don’t bend any steering links.
Think of it this way, it holds the weight of the tractor, it will be fine to hold it from moving.
I can think of better places
Regarding weight and loading a trailer where it lifts the back of your truck off the ground: Consider a 7,000-pound tractor being loaded on a dual axle trailer. Each axle is rated for 3500 pounds and you feel safe. But when your 7000-pound tractor is lifting the back end of your truck up by pivoting on the rear axle, you now have 14000 pounds pushing down on only one axle rated for 3500 pounds. 7,000 pounds from the tractor pushing down and another 7,000 pounds pushing down as it balances the force on the truck side. The front axle of the trailer is lifted in the air and not supporting any of that weight. Anyone ever see an axle snap like that? Jacks or wooden blocks in the back as you load would support that weight and limit the weight on your back axle.
That is not how weight works. The truck is not siting on the trailer and it is just an anchor it doesn't add weight to the trailer.
@@trevorlynch6549 Think about a see saw. One 50 pound kid sits on one side and the other side goes up in the air and his end hits the ground and only 25 pounds is felt by the pivot point or axle (25 pounds is supported by the ground and 25 pounds by the axle). Another 50 pound kid comes by and gets on the other end. There is now 50 pounds on each end that the axle is supporting which makes it 100 pounds in total. The same thing with a truck pulling down on the tongue. Whatever weight is pulling down on one side is pulling down on the other side of the axle with equal force. The way to prevent this excessive force is to put supports on the trailer ramps so your axle only has to support 1/2 the weight of your load instead of two times the weight. All heavy duty trailers have this support for this very reason.
What are the tie down points?
I must have went to sleep and missed some important tips about the best hooks for the chains and where to fasten to the trailer and how. Regulations are different in different areas. Some places require crossed chains, some, any attachments must be fastened down,some require four or more chains and likely i missed more than I mentioned. Food for thought.
I've always been very nervous about transporting so any service I need I trust my dealer to pick up & return my tractor also I have Ktac policy paid up.
I would always lean on the side of too much trailer than too little. Overloaded trailers are very dangerous.
Very few people actually look at axle weight ratings, especially single axle trailers.
2:47 Gotta get that mail out! Holy moly usps!
I would love to use chains if Kubota tractors had built in tie down points... but I'm not ripping a chain across paint on a brand new 40k tractor
Strap should never be used to transport wheeled or tracked machinery. Chains only should be used. Always make sure chains are pulling away from the machine not straight down from the machine.
...Not mentioned here is to block up/jack up the rear of the trailer when loading & unloading, It keeps the tongue weight more stable so not to damage truck or trailer hitch components.
Is there a best practice to transport the tractor forward or backwards? Should I be concerned with 45-50 MPH winds on the tractor radiator if towing forwards? Another great video!
No to both questions. You just want the load balanced. If your concerned with weight balance, measure the rear bumper height unloaded, then loaded. You want to see a difference where when loaded the height is less. There's no magic number, but say 3" or so. Too much tongue weight is not a good thing either.
Tractors should always be backed onto trailer. Less chance of roll over.
Brent Kiser less chance of roll over how? As in going up the ramps? I'm confused
Jason Hendrix absolutely. Think about the physics. If deck height is higher than center of gravity of tractor and ramps are short, any sudden acceleration loading or quick breaking unloading could easily upend the front of tractor. Of course all is dependent on type of trailer/tractor combination, but why take that chance. All it takes is one time.
Brent Kiser u typically only have to worry about that with skid loaders
Being a trailer with electric brakes, it may be a good idea to pull the disconnect and let the battery on the trailer activate the trailer brakes for both stability and to save jerking on the tow vehicle drive train
I was told that in NC all 4 corners need to be tied with something rated for 50% of the total weight. Also implements, even if attached, must also be strapped down including FEL and mowers etc.
Either ratchet straps or chains rated at a min of 50% are fine. For my small equipment I use 1/4” gr70 chain and binders and 3” straps for implements.
I rented a small backhoe and tilt trailer one time from an equipment rental place when I was out of town. Because the chain binders weren't lubed, it took me about a half hour just to remove the stupid things. I knew I should of brought my straps.
Make sure gooseneck is actually attached to the truck before loading a m6060, I watched a former delivery driver stand trailer and tractor almost straight up, and no I was inside dealership and didn't know trailer wasn't hooked up or I would of said something.
How long of a trailer are you using in that video? I'm hopefully going to be getting a BX in the next month or two and will need to get a trailer.
Thanks
Also, as you mentioned the weights that i'm seeing for the tractor and implements are "shipping" weight. Ruffly how much does the tractor weigh in the video? That's what I'm looking to purchase.
that an 18ft flat deck w/ 4ft beaver tail.
add anything not included in the base tractor, accessories, buckets, ballast, fluids. I then add a safety margin.
I hauled my kubota bx 1800 with a buddies suv and when I backed it off the rear wheels of it came off
Kubota don't put tie down points on there tractors ?????
If only tractor manufacturers put tie down points on there machines like on industrial equiptment got a brand new m110 gx kubota at work a few months ago and it arived with pre scratched and rusted front axles because the transport company that dropped it off to the dealer put chains over the front axle.
Christopher Read I'm not sure about small tractors but on most 100hp or bigger tractors they have loops cast into the frame for tie downs
Logan Stansell we got a 110 horse kubota this year and also have a 125 both dont have tie down points neither did the john deere it might be a utility tractor thing not to have them.
You forgot to mention to make sure that the tongue is latched onto the ball before loading. It's not fun when loading your Kubota M-6040 and the 32' gooseneck trailer looks more like a launch pad than a trailer and then rolls into your tailgate on your 5 month old truck. Lessons learned though now I always triple check the coupler and I make sure I always load in 4 wheel drive.
bearkatljl well
ouch!
Don't feel bad 2005 dodge ram 3500 2 days of ownership when bought new in march of 05 truck had 18 miles on it when it left the dealer and had 30 miles on it when I forgot to lock the trailer to the truck and completely dug into the tailgate with the trailer.. ALWAYS check that the trailer is LOCKED TO THE TRUCK FIRST.
I would really agree and say I see most mistakes on tongue weight throughout pickup truck transporting. It could mean life or death if you go down the road with a tractor sitting on the rear of the trailer pulling up on the pickup hitch. I know afew guys who have had there trucks jackknife when they went to stop because the trailer was lifting up on the drive wheels.
Always scotch the front and back of the rear trailer tires when loading and unloading.
Kubota needs to have a compliance plate with the weight, i don't care about it's shipping weight, i need to know weight with radiator fluid and engine/hydro oil full, and all implements need weights on a compliance plate too.
Always lash vehicles at the axles, never the body, chassis ok but still body, lashings will surge on bumps. Axles don’t move
Agree with Farming 4G about the wheel chocks (scotch blocks) and to add to that you should never load equipment on a trailer pulled by a pick-up DOWN HILL. when the weight comes off the drive wheels of the towing vehicle you can find yourself drifting down hill uncontrollably. Always load UP HILL if you can't load on level ground. Unloading, as Neal described, is just the opposite. Never brake the tractor if you find yourself in a drifting situation, get the weight back on the trailer tong as quickly as possible to allow the towing vehicle to settle back down on the ground.
The first thing he said there, about overloaded trailers: I see that ALL THE TIME around here: Overloaded trailers _and_ trucks. I've seen a gooseneck flatbed with a skid-steer being hauled by a half ton, and I've seen a full-size backhoe on a two 7,000 lb axle trailer being hauled by an 02 one ton dodge dually, which is probably about 20,000 lbs gross on a trailer probably rated for 16,000 lbs gross, best case, pulled by a truck with a tow rating of at most 12,000 lbs.
Four chains and ratchet binders and don't rely on the tires staying inflated to keep the chains tight. When you have to lock the brakes up because someone pulled into the street in front of you you don't want the tractor in your back seat.
Also the type of pickup truck you need depends on the size of the tractor. A 3/4 ton truck is preferable
Chock your trailer!!! Wheel Chocks save lives! Your experience with the rig moving would not have happened had you chocked the trailer wheels. Other than that, good advice. Remember 10% tongue weight is where J2807 calculates all towing standards now. You want at least 10% on the truck and up to 15% is the limit. A 7K trailer should have a minimum of 700 pounds on the truck.
Never use lever binders. They are dangerous and much harder te get tight.
I will never use straps to hual equipment.
At one of my jobs i following behind the other crew truck that hualing a john deere compact tractors probably about the same size as the ine in video. But as we went down this back road the tractors was bouncing. Now the wheels never came and it was only the shocks that where moving, but one the older guys who had been at this company for 15 years said that hes had that same machine almost fall off. It ended up moving forward and getting stuck on the tounge of the trailer or something.
But if he had used chains that would of never happened.
Idk but the boss refused to used chains for that machine even though we had chains to use!
Tractors don't have shocks.