Very nice work. The one thing I would add about wax resist is that it is a good idea to keep the sponges separate as it doesn't take much for a sponge to pick up a bit of resist and wipe it where you do not want.
Hi Tom, thank you for giving us your insight on glazing your vases. I like the dynamic of your glaze. You did not show how you applied the transparent glaze on the outside after you have brushed on the underglaze. So I wonder how you did it without smearing your brushstrokes. Would be delighted to receive an answer .
I've been off UA-cam for ages and only just seen your message! For small pieces like bowls I just dip them in glaze with glaze tongs. For larger pieces I spray them with glaze. The brushstrokes only smear if they are touched.
Thanks Tom - am really enjoying your videos. I’m new to Ceramics (my background is Printmaking) and - like you - am learning lots through UA-cam. Can you tell me which powdered underglaze you were using please? I like the idea of mixing up my own stuff but am getting really confused about what to buy from suppliers. Thank you!
I just experimented a lot with different brands and colours. Currently I generally tend to use underglaze powder from a UK supplier (Potclays) plus a tiny amount of Mason stain.
A safety thing. Mix your powder glazes outside. Sand pots outside. If you have a bucket of already mixed glaze, powder and water, you can stir those back up inside.
Absolutely stunning. Thank you so much for sharing this. I've tried to use the Mayco Designer Liner and I have struggled mightily. Would you say that feeling comfortable using the pen is a bit of a learning curve? Any ideas are appreciated!
Writing with a metal tip on bisqueware is always a bit taxing. Try to reduce the pressure on the surface to the minimum you can get away with to avoid that scratchy feeling.
Thank you for that. Is there a reason for glazing the foot at the same time as the inside? My thought that it is a clever way to add moisture to the foot, so that you don't get to thick a glaze application on the inside at the bottom. I have found that when pouring the glaze into a bisque pot, because if the time it takes to pour it around and out, the glaze is quite thick on the bottom. Which can lead to cracking as it dries and crawling when fired.
I apply my transparent glaze quite thinly so I don’t get a big build up in the bottom inside. Often I have the opposite problem where the footring is trimmed quite thinly so I need to let the glaze in the footring dry thoroughly before glazing the inside; otherwise I don’t get enough glaze sticking to the bottom inside!
Stunning!
Very nice work. The one thing I would add about wax resist is that it is a good idea to keep the sponges separate as it doesn't take much for a sponge to pick up a bit of resist and wipe it where you do not want.
Love your work!
Oh, they are lovely! Beautiful gestural marks!
Very clear and detailed. Tom thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Brilliant. Thank you for posting.
Such a beautiful studio and pots. Your work is stunning!
Great video Tom!
Very impressive works of art. An interesting and insightful video. Thank you.
I enjoyed that, thanks
So pretty lovely design and colours
Whether you add a layer of transparent glaze on the top of underglaze stroke
Hi Tom, thank you for giving us your insight on glazing your vases. I like the dynamic of your glaze.
You did not show how you applied the transparent glaze on the outside after you have brushed on the underglaze. So I wonder how you did it without smearing your brushstrokes.
Would be delighted to receive an answer .
I've been off UA-cam for ages and only just seen your message! For small pieces like bowls I just dip them in glaze with glaze tongs. For larger pieces I spray them with glaze. The brushstrokes only smear if they are touched.
@@TomKempCeramics Thank you for your response 😁
Ok, now we're talking😂❤
Good question
merci🤩
Very nice work.
Thanks
Thanks Tom - am really enjoying your videos. I’m new to Ceramics (my background is Printmaking) and - like you - am learning lots through UA-cam. Can you tell me which powdered underglaze you were using please? I like the idea of mixing up my own stuff but am getting really confused about what to buy from suppliers. Thank you!
I just experimented a lot with different brands and colours. Currently I generally tend to use underglaze powder from a UK supplier (Potclays) plus a tiny amount of Mason stain.
A safety thing. Mix your powder glazes outside. Sand pots outside. If you have a bucket of already mixed glaze, powder and water, you can stir those back up inside.
Thanks for sharing your techniques. May I ask, what is the underglaze pen you used?
Hi Robert, it's an Axner underglaze pen
Absolutely stunning. Thank you so much for sharing this. I've tried to use the Mayco Designer Liner and I have struggled mightily. Would you say that feeling comfortable using the pen is a bit of a learning curve? Any ideas are appreciated!
Writing with a metal tip on bisqueware is always a bit taxing. Try to reduce the pressure on the surface to the minimum you can get away with to avoid that scratchy feeling.
Very nice! Can the underglaze and clay be left raw without any clear glaze on top?
Yep - you don't need to glaze the clay but often glaze makes the colour of the lines more intense.
Thank yo so much for this video. Can you tell me the brand of the underglaze bottle/pen you are using in the video?
It's an Axner underglaze pen. Sorry for the delay in replying!
Thank you for that. Is there a reason for glazing the foot at the same time as the inside?
My thought that it is a clever way to add moisture to the foot, so that you don't get to thick a glaze application on the inside at the bottom. I have found that when pouring the glaze into a bisque pot, because if the time it takes to pour it around and out, the glaze is quite thick on the bottom. Which can lead to cracking as it dries and crawling when fired.
I apply my transparent glaze quite thinly so I don’t get a big build up in the bottom inside. Often I have the opposite problem where the footring is trimmed quite thinly so I need to let the glaze in the footring dry thoroughly before glazing the inside; otherwise I don’t get enough glaze sticking to the bottom inside!
Why music so loud?
Aluminum Hydrate doesn't melt at all.... You mean to say Aluminum Hydrate doesn't melt at the temp you are firing. Yes?