I’ll preface this by apologizing for getting long winded, I’ve gone through my fair share of clutches in my time 😅,…my suggestion is if you’re going in you might as well do it all. Parts are easily sourced from reputable suppliers, I have mine that I prefer and so do others. Bushings for the clutch handle can be replaced as well as the bolt that holds it on, don’t beat on the bolt with a hammer trying to remove it as you’ll break off that ear and really be in trouble. There is a tool for removing that bolt/pin safely, if I lived closer I’d loan mine to you😊 …..you can buy oversized pins to take out the slop in the rod, I heat the clevis part red hot and then drill out the hole to the size of the new over size pin. Inside the clutch chances are you’ve got a worn or possibly broken clutch dog, the toggles may be worn as well but generally the dog is the culprit. Also the T bolts do wear as they pull on the dogs but they don’t seem to wear as fast either. At the end of the day it’s your tractor and your money but if it’s in the cards I would replace all those operating components along with the clutch discs. Give everything inside a good cleaning including the oil passages and if you’re really feeling ambitious you could remove the bearing and pack that with a good high temp grease. Finally I use Belleville washers under the castellated nuts which makes for a much crisper snap on the clutch. Good luck!!!
Spoiler alert, I dug into it already and I thought there would be an issue with the t-bolts or the toggles. But the issue ended up being worn out/collapsed springs. So I've got a few new parts on order but most everything else in the clutch seemed to be in good working order. Once I get my new discs I'll get back to there and finish the job and that video will be out in the next few weeks. Hopefully it all goes together as well as I'm hoping. 🤞🏻
You'll love it after you've tightened up all that linkage. I repaired all the clutch linkage on my Cat D2 and now using the lever is like a tight Euro sports car gear shift - just awesome - click>click
I think I'll start with installing the parts with less wear and then I'll look at machining bushings and such on the worn parts I take off. One day I might get to European sports car status 😅. Thanks for the advise!
It's been many years since I worked on my Grandpa's A, but I'm pretty sure that he had set up his three point so the top link was mounted offset to the left. And that allowed us to access the hydraulics while the top link was installed.
I think it was an option from the factory. This one is aftermarket, as was pointed out. The factory Deere ones are kinda pricey. We have we pulled off of a parts tractor that were going to put on our BW that was in last week's video...ua-cam.com/video/8xOxXT6IVMU/v-deo.htmlsi=ZSgH_Egrbjz4oAcz
I have wrapped a come-a-long through the wheel and around the tire to squeeze the tire down enough to get the clutch off. Done it successfully many times on different tractors.
My 60 originally had the remote cylinders plumbed thru the back, I switched it to the side ports, and it does work well, but you have to have the proper plugs, which I honestly always get mixed up on. I also have an adjustable plug that can be changed to be open or closed. This means I can switch from 3 point to the side ports without losing any fluid or pulling plugs. The only bad thing is they didn't make an adjustable plug that fit your C clip style powr trol box. The clutch should be a "fun" adventure. Make sure the facing behind the clutch driver is good. Make sure your clutch driver is good. Then you also need to make sure your flywheel/crankshaft has the right endplay, which is hard to set when your clutch isn't right! A loose clutch driver and bad endplay can make it impossible to set the clutch right, good luck!
I never really paid that much attention to the Powr-Trol unit until now. Our 70D has the newer style that doesn't use the shear clip, like my A. Sounds like it's similar to the one your 60 had. I started working on my clutch already. The issue was surprisingly simple (worn out/collapsed springs) but I did notice my flywheel end play is now different than it used to be. So I need to take a closer look at that and get that adjusted properly. I've got my A manual, but I haven't dug into it too deeply yet. Do I tighten the clutch tension first and then adjust flywheel endplay to be within spec? Or do I adjust endplay first and then adjust the clutch? I thought the proper order of operations was clutch first, then endplay.
@@jonelsonster The flywheel position/crankshaft endplay needs to be set first. If the endplay is not right, the clutch will not work right, especially if the endplay is too much. However, the clutch functioning is VERY helpful to set the crankshaft endplay. If you snap the clutch forward, then rock the clutch lever forward and back WITHOUT snapping it out (takes some practice), the clutch actually pulls the crankshaft side to side, and it makes it VERY easy to adjust the crankshaft endplay. So it's a little backwards but I get the clutch working, use it to set the flywheel position, THEN I end up readjusting the clutch, which isn't a huge deal. Hopefully this makes some sense. I had to deal with this on my 60 quite a few times as the flywheel AND clutch driver are worn out and loose!
Great video. I was having trouble figuring out. On the clutch, the clutch handle u can get a new pen for it. The part that is talking in video is the clutch brake u can use a bushing to tight it up. The last thing that I can tell you is. The clutch you are talking about 3 bolts tightly up. But the clutch diver has a single bolt in it. After it is removed, you should have nickel thickness, and then the clutch diver will be pressed on.
Good info! I completely rebuilt all the linkages on one of our other model A's. I will need to show that in the next video. I would like to do that again, however I no longer have access to a lathe... So a full rebuild might need to wait. 😉
It would be a great winter project to completely go through the whole clutch and linkage. Based on how sloppy the linkage is everything needs to be resized and bushed to bring it back into spec. That old A has a lot of hours on it. You won’t know how to act with the linkage all tightened up. Have fun.
@ that would be great. Makes me miss our old 730 I cut my teeth on a kid farming with dad. We had a lot of 2 cylinder JD in our neck of the woods. A, B, G, R, 60, 720, 730. My Grandfather had a 830, and we had a 630 and 730. Good days those were.
Glad you figured out the hydraulic system. YA the clutch needs work . Is there bushings in the clutch brake assembly ? I personally would keep all the parts tractors if I had a place to store them. Really Good stuff right here. Thanks. 😊
Yes, they're 42" rims instead of 38". That's one of the reasons I bought the tractor. I've always loved the look of them. And I immediately realized how expensive 12.4x42 tires are! 😬
Now you got the cylinder to work so if the clutch don't work it'll sit and you can look ar it. The clutch will ALWAYS entail more than you think. Everything does and I heard that Silly Girl outside gomming around. Blessings and HappyThanksgiving!
Clutch will naturally be hard to disenguage when you tighten it. Thats a given. Normal wear will aleviate that. Tell me about it i grew up on a G. Can attest to many mishaps as a young boy happening after you tighten the clutch. I had a system down to a science stand up do a reverse flip leaving me in front of clutch lever hanging on to the steering wheel and light bracket giving me leverage to do a hardy kick to pop it out
I'm very familiar with these clutches as well. But this one goes from super loose to do tight you can't even disengage or engage the clutch with less than a quarter turn off the adjusting nut.
With the plugs installed in the tractor the 3 point hitch will operate. If I want to run a remote cylinder then I pull the plugs out and install the quick connects straight or the back. It's one of the other ...3 point hitch or remote cylinder. I added those two side hook ups a few videos back after seeing some pictures on line... But they must have had a different/new valve body. They look similar from the outside, but they're different.
The reason they look like they are sticking out far is because I have the quick connects bolted on. I used the shortest nipple available. They can't be any shorter if I want to use the quick connect adapter... Which I do. If they bug me sticking it that far then I'll replace them with the plugs again. It only takes about 30 seconds to make the swap.
I really like these videos. I especially like the PowerTrol hydraulic pump fix on the John Deere A tractor.
Thanks 👍
Great explanation on the PowerTrol. Looking forward to the clutch work...clutch overhaul is my winter project on my 43 JD A.
Hopefully I don't have anything seriously wrong with the clutch. But I've got a stash of parts tractor parts in case I need em.
I’ll preface this by apologizing for getting long winded, I’ve gone through my fair share of clutches in my time 😅,…my suggestion is if you’re going in you might as well do it all. Parts are easily sourced from reputable suppliers, I have mine that I prefer and so do others. Bushings for the clutch handle can be replaced as well as the bolt that holds it on, don’t beat on the bolt with a hammer trying to remove it as you’ll break off that ear and really be in trouble. There is a tool for removing that bolt/pin safely, if I lived closer I’d loan mine to you😊 …..you can buy oversized pins to take out the slop in the rod, I heat the clevis part red hot and then drill out the hole to the size of the new over size pin. Inside the clutch chances are you’ve got a worn or possibly broken clutch dog, the toggles may be worn as well but generally the dog is the culprit. Also the T bolts do wear as they pull on the dogs but they don’t seem to wear as fast either. At the end of the day it’s your tractor and your money but if it’s in the cards I would replace all those operating components along with the clutch discs. Give everything inside a good cleaning including the oil passages and if you’re really feeling ambitious you could remove the bearing and pack that with a good high temp grease. Finally I use Belleville washers under the castellated nuts which makes for a much crisper snap on the clutch. Good luck!!!
Spoiler alert, I dug into it already and I thought there would be an issue with the t-bolts or the toggles. But the issue ended up being worn out/collapsed springs. So I've got a few new parts on order but most everything else in the clutch seemed to be in good working order. Once I get my new discs I'll get back to there and finish the job and that video will be out in the next few weeks. Hopefully it all goes together as well as I'm hoping. 🤞🏻
@ that’s good news, normally you don’t see the springs go bad the dogs seem to take the most abuse.
You'll love it after you've tightened up all that linkage. I repaired all the clutch linkage on my Cat D2 and now using the lever is like a tight Euro sports car gear shift - just awesome - click>click
I think I'll start with installing the parts with less wear and then I'll look at machining bushings and such on the worn parts I take off. One day I might get to European sports car status 😅. Thanks for the advise!
It's been many years since I worked on my Grandpa's A, but I'm pretty sure that he had set up his three point so the top link was mounted offset to the left. And that allowed us to access the hydraulics while the top link was installed.
I seriously contemplated cutting the top link off and moving it over an inch so that I could run both.
Kinda neat, I've never seen a 3 point on an A or B, I learn something new every day.
That's an after market three point.
After thought on the clutch handle make an extension for the handle will give you more leverage when it freshly tightened
I think it was an option from the factory. This one is aftermarket, as was pointed out. The factory Deere ones are kinda pricey. We have we pulled off of a parts tractor that were going to put on our BW that was in last week's video...ua-cam.com/video/8xOxXT6IVMU/v-deo.htmlsi=ZSgH_Egrbjz4oAcz
I have wrapped a come-a-long through the wheel and around the tire to squeeze the tire down enough to get the clutch off. Done it successfully many times on different tractors.
I've done this once to pull the service brake shaft out of a D...it works!
Very good idea! I wonder if it would still work with the larger diameter 42"tires... Only 1 way to find out...
@@jonelsonster you do have to remove the valve core and use the ratchet strap to squeeze the air out.
My 60 originally had the remote cylinders plumbed thru the back, I switched it to the side ports, and it does work well, but you have to have the proper plugs, which I honestly always get mixed up on. I also have an adjustable plug that can be changed to be open or closed. This means I can switch from 3 point to the side ports without losing any fluid or pulling plugs. The only bad thing is they didn't make an adjustable plug that fit your C clip style powr trol box. The clutch should be a "fun" adventure. Make sure the facing behind the clutch driver is good. Make sure your clutch driver is good. Then you also need to make sure your flywheel/crankshaft has the right endplay, which is hard to set when your clutch isn't right! A loose clutch driver and bad endplay can make it impossible to set the clutch right, good luck!
I never really paid that much attention to the Powr-Trol unit until now. Our 70D has the newer style that doesn't use the shear clip, like my A. Sounds like it's similar to the one your 60 had. I started working on my clutch already. The issue was surprisingly simple (worn out/collapsed springs) but I did notice my flywheel end play is now different than it used to be. So I need to take a closer look at that and get that adjusted properly.
I've got my A manual, but I haven't dug into it too deeply yet. Do I tighten the clutch tension first and then adjust flywheel endplay to be within spec? Or do I adjust endplay first and then adjust the clutch? I thought the proper order of operations was clutch first, then endplay.
@@jonelsonster The flywheel position/crankshaft endplay needs to be set first. If the endplay is not right, the clutch will not work right, especially if the endplay is too much.
However, the clutch functioning is VERY helpful to set the crankshaft endplay. If you snap the clutch forward, then rock the clutch lever forward and back WITHOUT snapping it out (takes some practice), the clutch actually pulls the crankshaft side to side, and it makes it VERY easy to adjust the crankshaft endplay.
So it's a little backwards but I get the clutch working, use it to set the flywheel position, THEN I end up readjusting the clutch, which isn't a huge deal.
Hopefully this makes some sense. I had to deal with this on my 60 quite a few times as the flywheel AND clutch driver are worn out and loose!
@weirddeere very helpful! Thanks!
Great video. I was having trouble figuring out. On the clutch, the clutch handle u can get a new pen for it. The part that is talking in video is the clutch brake u can use a bushing to tight it up. The last thing that I can tell you is. The clutch you are talking about 3 bolts tightly up. But the clutch diver has a single bolt in it. After it is removed, you should have nickel thickness, and then the clutch diver will be pressed on.
Good info! I completely rebuilt all the linkages on one of our other model A's. I will need to show that in the next video. I would like to do that again, however I no longer have access to a lathe... So a full rebuild might need to wait. 😉
It would be a great winter project to completely go through the whole clutch and linkage. Based on how sloppy the linkage is everything needs to be resized and bushed to bring it back into spec. That old A has a lot of hours on it. You won’t know how to act with the linkage all tightened up. Have fun.
I've redone all of the clutch linkages on one of our other tractors. I'll have to show that when I do the next video.
@ that would be great. Makes me miss our old 730 I cut my teeth on a kid farming with dad. We had a lot of 2 cylinder JD in our neck of the woods. A, B, G, R, 60, 720, 730. My Grandfather had a 830, and we had a 630 and 730. Good days those were.
Glad you figured out the hydraulic system. YA the clutch needs work . Is there bushings in the clutch brake assembly ? I personally would keep all the parts tractors if I had a place to store them. Really Good stuff right here. Thanks. 😊
This is the earlier style of clutch with a bushing rather than tapered roller bearings. I'll have at see what sort of wear the bushing has
You've got what looks like some rare dished rear wheels on that A.
Yes, they're 42" rims instead of 38". That's one of the reasons I bought the tractor. I've always loved the look of them. And I immediately realized how expensive 12.4x42 tires are! 😬
I am assuming you already know this but. You know that tractor Is either a factory AN or AW.
You should run the numbers thru 2 cylinder club.
@@donaldneuenfeldt5527 yes, it is a high clearance AN.
Now you got the cylinder to work so if the clutch don't work it'll sit and you can look ar it. The clutch will ALWAYS entail more than you think. Everything does and I heard that Silly Girl outside gomming around. Blessings and HappyThanksgiving!
Great point! Thanks!
@@jonelsonster You/yall too!
Clutch will naturally be hard to disenguage when you tighten it. Thats a given. Normal wear will aleviate that. Tell me about it i grew up on a G. Can attest to many mishaps as a young boy happening after you tighten the clutch. I had a system down to a science stand up do a reverse flip leaving me in front of clutch lever hanging on to the steering wheel and light bracket giving me leverage to do a hardy kick to pop it out
I'm very familiar with these clutches as well. But this one goes from super loose to do tight you can't even disengage or engage the clutch with less than a quarter turn off the adjusting nut.
Do you know why the hookups as originally plumbed didn’t work? And what then are those side ports for?
With the plugs installed in the tractor the 3 point hitch will operate. If I want to run a remote cylinder then I pull the plugs out and install the quick connects straight or the back. It's one of the other ...3 point hitch or remote cylinder. I added those two side hook ups a few videos back after seeing some pictures on line... But they must have had a different/new valve body. They look similar from the outside, but they're different.
I would shorten them nipples they are sticking out way to far.
The reason they look like they are sticking out far is because I have the quick connects bolted on. I used the shortest nipple available. They can't be any shorter if I want to use the quick connect adapter... Which I do. If they bug me sticking it that far then I'll replace them with the plugs again. It only takes about 30 seconds to make the swap.