Bottom bracket tool, cassette tools(2), halen keys(4), tires tools(2), cables cutters, wires cutters, headset press maybe...but if it is a hardtail it is different and other factors like which type of bottom bracket. You want to take apart the suspension and fork too? More tools needed
The introduction of Torx head fasteners to what was hex head was unneeded (SRAM). Especially when you see a single manufacturer using both Torx and hex (SRAM!). Pick a lane and stay in it (SRAM).
Despite the provisos in the minimum tools question, it is still a "how long is a peice of string one... That said, I did a quick google and found the maintenance manual for the buffalo bike, famously one of the easiest bikes in the world to maintain, and which IIRC your sister channel did some work with, and it lists: Spoke wrench 15mm cone spanner 10mm Spanner 13mm Spanner 15mm Spanner 17mm Spanner 26mm Spanner 36mm Spanner Lockring Spanner Hammer Cotter Anvil Screwdriver Pliers Plus some tools specifically for tire repair. I suspect at a pinch you could sub out most of the spanners for a single adjustable one.... if your wheels are already built you can probably skip the spoke wrench. Technically anything is a hammer if you are desperate enough so you are down to: 15mm cone spanner Adjustable spanner Screwdriver Cotter Anvil Pliers And if you are to this point maybe we can do away with the cotter anvil... So 4....
Thank you - I'm aware that other sizes are available - and sometimes used on bikes but in general those sizes aren't currently super common on Mountain bikes - but yes the wonderfully world of tools is near bottomless its amazing! Cheers Owen
So I actually did a chart with every bolt from my 20" Bmx Bike all the way to my 29r full suspension bike (6 bikea in total) and then built a pack with every tool to work on all of them. It was nice, but it was very heavy, and I then needed to build smaller kits, so I could take them with me in a backpack on longer rides. Now I just have 1 all-purpose car toolbox and a bare-bones camelback vest setup. It's less comprehensive but way easier. I never used most of them anyway, and they are always back at the house for the big jobs.
Great Question - from memory - Shimano use 5mm, 6mm and 8mm hex sizes for pedals other brands also use a mix of sizes - well a mix across their whole range rather just one model!
If you wanted to have as little tools as possible, you could just run a brakeless bmx. 5mm for the headset and bars, 15/17mm for the wheels. I wouldnt imagine a tire pump would count. For a full suspension mountain bike, you often need the full range of tools. Running wireless stuff does mean less tools especially if it is the new transmission. 8mm for the UDH and cranks, T25 for the rest of the sram goodies. If you had to pick the least amount of tools for a whole bike, buy the park tool mk-16. One model number means one tool right?
3:57 I just purchased a 160mm Rockshox Domain last week and I was wondering this same thing. I emailed SRAM with the serial number and they said that I can increase the travel to 170 or 180mm. I'm thinking of going 180mm and as mentioned the new air spring is a really reasonable price at $48.00. The only daunting part is installing it. From the two YT videos I've watched it looks like you have to take the whole fork apart and along with having the air spring you need grease and their special Maxima plush oil. The UA-camr's also said it's a good idea to buy a pack of o-rings because supposedly once you take the fork apart the old o-rings are pretty much toast.
If you've just brought the forks, the seals etc shouldn't need replacing. As for servicing, rockshox are easy to do, just make sure your working in a dust free environment and put everything in the order it came out. I upped my lyriks from 160 to 170 no problem. Your best bet is to download the service manual from SRAM for your forks and give it a good read, it tells you everything you need to know Inc oil weight, volume and amount etc. It took me an hour the 1st time I serviced them and changed the travel but it gets quicker the more you do it.. It's a lot cheaper than forking out £120 for someone to do it every time they need servicing.(That's 2 trips to Bike park Wales) RS rear shocks are very easy too. Servicing their stuff is much easier to do than you think. Just buy the oils, grease, syringe and your good to go.
That would be a good idea... although it will require specific frames, and there is still the question of overall gear-spread compared to a Pinion etc. - particularly for MTB applications. However, I agree, it makes a lot more sense on a bicycle to have a concentric compact gearbox if possible.
#AskGMBNTech What is correct way to store bleed kit? Do I have to clean it after every use or can I leave some oil in it. Mainly conserned if hoses or syringes becomes brittle after a while if there is some oil. I have SRAM mineral oil bleed kit if it makes any difference. Thanks.
#AskGMBNTech We have a few bikes with carbon/alu frames (and handlebars) in our garage ... I'm doing most of the maintenance on my own, but I often search the diagrams and specs of the bikes for which torque to use on different locations and different materials. Is there a "table of torque values" that can be used as a standard? That would be very usable. Thanks!
#AskGMBNTech in the shock it's possible to add tokens in the negative chamber, is it possible also on the fork? In order to stiffen the upper part of the travel?
Alfine hubs - as being designed for city use - have a limit on maximum torque and therefore chainring/cog combination. That said, staying within the safe legal limits you might end up in a bit too tall of a gear for an MTB
#AskGMBNTech I have a bike with an older RockShox 26" Reba RL air fork - I think it is circa model year 2014. I want to service it, but searching for its serial number on SRAM's website does not yield any results. Is there something that can be done, for example somehow figuring out what type of oil it takes, if a service kit for a newer fork would be compatible, etc.?
@@gmbntech well I’m following up on your question. Did my first ride today with my Fox 34 Performance fork with 130mm of travel. One word can describe the new ride: WOW!! One bike shop where I like said it would ride like a “chopper”. Those switchbacks felt amazing today.
#askgmbntech I have shimano SLX 12 speed Rear derailleur. It’s got less than 50 miles use. It’s torqued to spec, however there is still side to side play at the jockey wheels. how much normal and how do you tighten it up.
#AskGMBNTech Hi, I've Shimano Deore XT rear derailleur (1x12 on 2022 Canyon Neuron) and since a few rides ago it sometimes has trouble shifting to harder gears (smaller cogs). It doesn't always happen. In fact, most of the time it shifts just fine, it's that at some point in my ride I drop to a harder gear and nothing happens. I can drop a few more gears and nothing happens but some times it'll shift after a delay. This tends to happen on biggest to mid size cogs. This happens a few times each ride. Could this be a cable issue? I've done 3100 awesome kilometres on this bike. Haven't done any real servicing except for lubing my chain regularly, changing it when it almost broke and trying to lube the cable once I noticed the issue. Cheers!
I'm looking for the strongest dh/trail rim with 25 to 27 internal width, I purposely balloon my tires to protect the rim it's the best solution I have yet... Just killed another 30mm front rim in a rock party 😅 pretty bummed.
Do you think a hardtail's fork should be set up with less sag than a full suspension? I always set up Firmer than I should, but I was just curious. #AskGmbnTech
Yes, I have a Park IB-2 multi-tool which has every size of allen key and a T25, and even a flat-blade screwdriver (for mechs which don't have allen bolts). I suspect you could fully* disassemble/reassemble a bike with that - however, building one up from new you would also need to install the bottom bracket*, the cassette*, cut some cables and bleed the brakes as Owen mentioned.
#AskGMBNTech Hi. I've got a Canyon Strive:On with a with Sram T-type XO. My question is, if I remove a link from my chain will this help remove chain slap? Presumably that would tighten the clutch slightly. Tauten the chain a tad and maybe reduce chain slap? What are the potential downsides? I'm only thinking one link. Many Thanks.
It won't make any difference to chain slap at all, assuming ur chain has been correctly SIZED for ur bike and cassette /Chainring size. It won't do anything to how tight the clutch is... If it's loose then it might be faulty. But chain wise, just size it correctly as per SRAM manual for that groupset (the exact chain sizing method has varied between different group sets over the years, there is no 'one rule'.
@@rupedog Thanks @rupedog. I don't think anything's faulty. It's difficult to get the chain length wrong, 116 in this case. So, one link does next to nothing, but it's leading somewhere. For a thought experiment, what exactly would removing three links produce? I'm not going to do that, but..
Hi. Just got a new bike (don't ask what kind because I might not be welcome here) but it's the first bike I've bought with through axles. How do you grease the axles and how often do you do it? #AskGMBNTech
You don't need too grease thru Axles. In fact, the actual axle is fixed in the hub, and the grease is only in the bearings... The bit you push through the hub is actually the 'Thru axle BOLT' (that's what people call the thru axle... But it's not REALLY the axle, but the bolt that goes thru the axle!). However, A slight wipe down the bolt with a clean rag (or finger) with a tiny tiny bit of chain lube on will help the thru axle bolt slide through the axle/hub nicely though.
If there is a level below noob that is where I am when it comes to tech@@rupedog I have no idea about anything other than changing an inner tube and that's a struggle. lol. I've only just got the bike at the weekend but the axle thing is something I'm a little nervous about because I haven't used it before. It's the outside of the thing that goes through the wheel I'm thinking about (rather than opening up anything). I take it that needs to be greased up or something? The last thing I want to do is wreck my new whip! lol
Do you have a question for us here at GMBN Tech? Ask away in the comments, and be sure to use #AskGMBNTech for a chance to be featured! 👇
Bottom bracket tool, cassette tools(2), halen keys(4), tires tools(2), cables cutters, wires cutters, headset press maybe...but if it is a hardtail it is different and other factors like which type of bottom bracket. You want to take apart the suspension and fork too? More tools needed
The introduction of Torx head fasteners to what was hex head was unneeded (SRAM). Especially when you see a single manufacturer using both Torx and hex (SRAM!). Pick a lane and stay in it (SRAM).
My bike only needs one tool and that's me.
😂
Despite the provisos in the minimum tools question, it is still a "how long is a peice of string one...
That said, I did a quick google and found the maintenance manual for the buffalo bike, famously one of the easiest bikes in the world to maintain, and which IIRC your sister channel did some work with, and it lists:
Spoke wrench
15mm cone spanner
10mm Spanner
13mm Spanner
15mm Spanner
17mm Spanner
26mm Spanner
36mm Spanner
Lockring Spanner
Hammer
Cotter Anvil
Screwdriver
Pliers
Plus some tools specifically for tire repair.
I suspect at a pinch you could sub out most of the spanners for a single adjustable one.... if your wheels are already built you can probably skip the spoke wrench. Technically anything is a hammer if you are desperate enough so you are down to:
15mm cone spanner
Adjustable spanner
Screwdriver
Cotter Anvil
Pliers
And if you are to this point maybe we can do away with the cotter anvil...
So 4....
You've done your research, that's got to be the winner!
What on earth you doing with all them spanners 😂😂😂
Owen.... 7mm hex key does exist along with 9mm, 11mm and many other sizes and shapes 😵💫
I've had to buy a 7.5 mm hex once. It served me once 😂
They make all the shape sorts and sizes, let's not even talk about JIS ...
Thank you - I'm aware that other sizes are available - and sometimes used on bikes but in general those sizes aren't currently super common on Mountain bikes - but yes the wonderfully world of tools is near bottomless its amazing! Cheers Owen
@@LaurentiusTriarius - well quite - and yeah JIS - so many different fittings its awesome - well awesome if you've got the right tool!
So I actually did a chart with every bolt from my 20" Bmx Bike all the way to my 29r full suspension bike (6 bikea in total) and then built a pack with every tool to work on all of them. It was nice, but it was very heavy, and I then needed to build smaller kits, so I could take them with me in a backpack on longer rides. Now I just have 1 all-purpose car toolbox and a bare-bones camelback vest setup. It's less comprehensive but way easier. I never used most of them anyway, and they are always back at the house for the big jobs.
I agree with Anna that you can get it down to just a few tools if one is a nice multi-tool
Owen on the tools question. When you said you need an 8mm Allen for the pedals. I have a set of Shimano Saint flat pedals the use a 6mm Allen key.
I just got a set of xt pedals that use 8mm. No pedal Ive had before uses that.
Great Question - from memory - Shimano use 5mm, 6mm and 8mm hex sizes for pedals other brands also use a mix of sizes - well a mix across their whole range rather just one model!
If you wanted to have as little tools as possible, you could just run a brakeless bmx. 5mm for the headset and bars, 15/17mm for the wheels. I wouldnt imagine a tire pump would count. For a full suspension mountain bike, you often need the full range of tools. Running wireless stuff does mean less tools especially if it is the new transmission. 8mm for the UDH and cranks, T25 for the rest of the sram goodies. If you had to pick the least amount of tools for a whole bike, buy the park tool mk-16. One model number means one tool right?
3:57 I just purchased a 160mm Rockshox Domain last week and I was wondering this same thing. I emailed SRAM with the serial number and they said that I can increase the travel to 170 or 180mm. I'm thinking of going 180mm and as mentioned the new air spring is a really reasonable price at $48.00. The only daunting part is installing it. From the two YT videos I've watched it looks like you have to take the whole fork apart and along with having the air spring you need grease and their special Maxima plush oil. The UA-camr's also said it's a good idea to buy a pack of o-rings because supposedly once you take the fork apart the old o-rings are pretty much toast.
If you've just brought the forks, the seals etc shouldn't need replacing. As for servicing, rockshox are easy to do, just make sure your working in a dust free environment and put everything in the order it came out. I upped my lyriks from 160 to 170 no problem. Your best bet is to download the service manual from SRAM for your forks and give it a good read, it tells you everything you need to know Inc oil weight, volume and amount etc. It took me an hour the 1st time I serviced them and changed the travel but it gets quicker the more you do it.. It's a lot cheaper than forking out £120 for someone to do it every time they need servicing.(That's 2 trips to Bike park Wales) RS rear shocks are very easy too. Servicing their stuff is much easier to do than you think. Just buy the oils, grease, syringe and your good to go.
Some of My pedals are 6mm hex!
Alfine will become effectively the BB, as a gearbox alternative from Shimamo, in coming years
That would be a good idea... although it will require specific frames, and there is still the question of overall gear-spread compared to a Pinion etc. - particularly for MTB applications. However, I agree, it makes a lot more sense on a bicycle to have a concentric compact gearbox if possible.
Tim, the smallest number of tools you need to completely strip down a bike is 1, an angle grinder.
😁
#AskGMBNTech What is correct way to store bleed kit? Do I have to clean it after every use or can I leave some oil in it. Mainly conserned if hoses or syringes becomes brittle after a while if there is some oil. I have SRAM mineral oil bleed kit if it makes any difference. Thanks.
The rohloff is a gear hub designed for mtb, is 14 gear with a larger range than a regular drivetrain and is reported to last up to half million km!
Same issue tho with unsprung weight
@@rupedog correct, the Pinion would solve that
#ASKGMBNTECH how can i extend the lenght of my steering tube
You only need one tool, a hammer will fix everything!😉🤣
#AskGMBNTech We have a few bikes with carbon/alu frames (and handlebars) in our garage ... I'm doing most of the maintenance on my own, but I often search the diagrams and specs of the bikes for which torque to use on different locations and different materials. Is there a "table of torque values" that can be used as a standard? That would be very usable. Thanks!
#AskGMBNTech in the shock it's possible to add tokens in the negative chamber, is it possible also on the fork? In order to stiffen the upper part of the travel?
#ASKGMBNTECH Just learnt my avid juicy 3 breaks are obsolete, should i get mechanical ones next like avid bb7?
Deore 4 pot or Shimano mt520 (4 pots also) are good on a budget and so much more powerful than your juicys.. I'd shop around for some good deals.
Alfine hubs - as being designed for city use - have a limit on maximum torque and therefore chainring/cog combination. That said, staying within the safe legal limits you might end up in a bit too tall of a gear for an MTB
#AskGMBNTech I have a bike with an older RockShox 26" Reba RL air fork - I think it is circa model year 2014. I want to service it, but searching for its serial number on SRAM's website does not yield any results. Is there something that can be done, for example somehow figuring out what type of oil it takes, if a service kit for a newer fork would be compatible, etc.?
I just upgraded my
110mm->130mm fork. Went front a RockShox to Fox Fork.
Nice! How does it ride?
@@gmbntech I’ll let you know in two weeks. Right now I’m getting new wheels built and the steerer tube cut at my local pro bike shop.
@@gmbntech well I’m following up on your question. Did my first ride today with my Fox 34 Performance fork with 130mm of travel. One word can describe the new ride: WOW!! One bike shop where I like said it would ride like a “chopper”. Those switchbacks felt amazing today.
#askgmbntech I have shimano SLX 12 speed Rear derailleur. It’s got less than 50 miles use. It’s torqued to spec, however there is still side to side play at the jockey wheels. how much normal and how do you tighten it up.
I'm over zealous 😅
#AskGMBNTech Hi, I've Shimano Deore XT rear derailleur (1x12 on 2022 Canyon Neuron) and since a few rides ago it sometimes has trouble shifting to harder gears (smaller cogs). It doesn't always happen. In fact, most of the time it shifts just fine, it's that at some point in my ride I drop to a harder gear and nothing happens. I can drop a few more gears and nothing happens but some times it'll shift after a delay. This tends to happen on biggest to mid size cogs. This happens a few times each ride. Could this be a cable issue? I've done 3100 awesome kilometres on this bike. Haven't done any real servicing except for lubing my chain regularly, changing it when it almost broke and trying to lube the cable once I noticed the issue. Cheers!
If i put my hand on the rear wheel and move it forwards and backwards something creaks, what could it be? The BB? #AskGMBNTech
#AskGMBNTech Which is better for my RockShox Zeb ultimate Silicone or Teflon spray?
I'm looking for the strongest dh/trail rim with 25 to 27 internal width, I purposely balloon my tires to protect the rim it's the best solution I have yet...
Just killed another 30mm front rim in a rock party 😅 pretty bummed.
Great Question - We'll added to a future #AskGmbnTech Cheers Owen
I use a wireless pump for my shocks without any issue it can go to 150 psi
Like a battery powered compressor? That's interesting 👍
Do you think a hardtail's fork should be set up with less sag than a full suspension? I always set up Firmer than I should, but I was just curious. #AskGmbnTech
Anna might get away with 5 tools to built the bike with out of the box components. But definetely not pull it apart completely as Tim asked
Henry stripped and rebuilt a whole bike with just a small multi tool... 1 tool!
Yes, I have a Park IB-2 multi-tool which has every size of allen key and a T25, and even a flat-blade screwdriver (for mechs which don't have allen bolts). I suspect you could fully* disassemble/reassemble a bike with that - however, building one up from new you would also need to install the bottom bracket*, the cassette*, cut some cables and bleed the brakes as Owen mentioned.
#ASKGMBNTECH can i drill my frame for nut inserts where the internal cable route is.
I just came here to ask what is a track pump 🙄
They don’t have te right length
#AskGMBNTech Hi. I've got a Canyon Strive:On with a with Sram T-type XO. My question is, if I remove a link from my chain will this help remove chain slap? Presumably that would tighten the clutch slightly. Tauten the chain a tad and maybe reduce chain slap? What are the potential downsides? I'm only thinking one link. Many Thanks.
It won't make any difference to chain slap at all, assuming ur chain has been correctly SIZED for ur bike and cassette /Chainring size.
It won't do anything to how tight the clutch is... If it's loose then it might be faulty.
But chain wise, just size it correctly as per SRAM manual for that groupset (the exact chain sizing method has varied between different group sets over the years, there is no 'one rule'.
@@rupedog Thanks @rupedog. I don't think anything's faulty. It's difficult to get the chain length wrong, 116 in this case. So, one link does next to nothing, but it's leading somewhere. For a thought experiment, what exactly would removing three links produce? I'm not going to do that, but..
Hi. Just got a new bike (don't ask what kind because I might not be welcome here) but it's the first bike I've bought with through axles. How do you grease the axles and how often do you do it? #AskGMBNTech
You don't need too grease thru Axles. In fact, the actual axle is fixed in the hub, and the grease is only in the bearings... The bit you push through the hub is actually the 'Thru axle BOLT' (that's what people call the thru axle... But it's not REALLY the axle, but the bolt that goes thru the axle!).
However, A slight wipe down the bolt with a clean rag (or finger) with a tiny tiny bit of chain lube on will help the thru axle bolt slide through the axle/hub nicely though.
If there is a level below noob that is where I am when it comes to tech@@rupedog I have no idea about anything other than changing an inner tube and that's a struggle. lol. I've only just got the bike at the weekend but the axle thing is something I'm a little nervous about because I haven't used it before. It's the outside of the thing that goes through the wheel I'm thinking about (rather than opening up anything). I take it that needs to be greased up or something? The last thing I want to do is wreck my new whip! lol