I know this is a couple of years old but still worth commenting! Great 'how to' Jason, I very much appreciate the amount of detail you slip in so casually without waffling on. There are so many videos available but so few this good, THANK YOU!
Really informative and useful video, Jason. I’m still in the ‘scared to death of splitting the case’ type of engine builder, but with your help I’m learning! Ben 🇬🇧
About to do a rebuild and really enjoying this series. You have a great manner for teaching, bit of humour and assume your audience has intelligence but lacks knowledge and experience. Then you communicate what is needed well. Cheers
G'day Jason, Kevin here from Australia. Another great video to add to this series. Some very important detail here . Remember it doesn't matter how long these early steps take get it wrong and you will probably end up with a boat anchor. Anyhoo thankyou so much for sharing Jason . Stay safe and stay well. ✌ Peace
Hey hey Kevin!! Hope all is well brother, thanks for the support man. Yup just trying to cover all those details I know people may be unfamiliar with. If I help one person I'll consider the video a successful endeavor!
Jason. I use a little colored grease on the saddles, to indicate where i need to notch the bearings for oil hole alignment . Great job on the video Jason . Zoom Zoom.
Iwont you trying idf injection type in your engines Am now trying it on 1.6L its amazing no need adjustments works perfect You can see my test start on video You can use any type of ecu Iuse vw golf all same and owen wiring and works 1.6 and it works with bigger engine without programming only when add turbo that time need more fuel so programming should be Thx for video great job you doing😍
There is all kinds of info out there and opinions as well, I believe that when you have a higher power engine that may be spending some time in the higher RPM range say above 5G then they can definitely help reduce the stress on the valve train.
not a bad idea using a pressure washer, I think what I'll do with the 2 blocks I got is coat them in a degreaser, let it sit for an hour or two, then spray them clean, and inspect from there
Hi ya and good morning from good old blighty. I've built a couple of air cooled and happy to say had some good success. I'm about to start on my 1.9dg water boxer. Can I take this info and apply it to that engine of are they different?
Firstly great video man love this also need some advice, so my rods are free to spin easy but not as easy as you have yours is that a huge problem or what is your opinion thanks in advance
Well brother you may have some tight bearings there. Sometimes you can wash the bearing with a scotch bright pad to obtain proper oil clearance but first, you need to check it. The Plasti Gauge can help you confirm your gap once torqued down properly. If it's too tight you may need to have the crank turned and polished. Hope this helps... the last thing you want is to burn up a journal surface and rod bearing.
@@JWClassicVW thanks I appreciate the response and I will do that, I don’t want to completely re build the engine just to re do it again lol - as fun as it is my wallet doesn’t allow that haha. Thanks for the help
Hi Jason, not sure if I told you but the 40h measurements are all good and still stock. is there something I can use to clean off the oil stain on the main bearing saddles or just leave them alone other than using brake clean on them?
cool, just didn't want to disturb the metal since it's still measuring good. But didn't want to put new bushings on top of it. Waiting on the weather to get warm enough around here to continue cleaning the case halves. Seattle has been super wet and cold this year more than normal.
Got a question? Got all the locator bearing pins out except for the aft one that take the smaller bearing. I tried a magnet and needle nose but it's really in there? I could let the machine shop worry about it before they alinebore it. Unless you have dealt with this before? let me know. I guess I could heat the area around it just enough to pull it out maybe?
Do you ever use plasigauge when your rebuilding you engines. Just curious I have rebuilt many V8 and V6 engines in the past 40 years and always use it and never had a failure.
Yes you can if you have the bore Gauge. You'll need to torque the case halfs together and then inspect each main bearing location for out of round and run out. At the same time you'll be checking for differences between each bearing location. The truth is if you can see any imprint of the old bearing info on the journal surface you probably need a line bore.
@@JWClassicVW ok thank you. Ive done tons of american engine rebuilds since the early 70s but this is my first trip on a total splitting the case vw rebuild.
Hay Jason I also want to build a 1600 engine , being a guy we all would want max horse power for no extra cost, is there perhaps a motor combination that is your favourite for street like cc, cam size ,Carbies, also taking cost into account we like max bang for our buck thanks buddy. Harry
Jason, question, bought an aftermarket flywheel and getting ready to mount my con rods. Noticed my crank doesn’t fit all the way into the flywheel hub. It appears the crank OD and flywheel hub ID is a interference fit? What’s going on here.
@@JWClassicVW I’ve rotated in all positions, still the same result. Samba says it should be a tight fit. I’m worried it will get stuck and then what...any chance you can cover this? BTW, all dowels line up fine. And, the flywheel has the o ring groove.
Be Sure to LIKE, SHARE, & SUBSCRIBE Thank you for all the support!!!
Yes... the more likes the better!!
I know this is a couple of years old but still worth commenting!
Great 'how to' Jason, I very much appreciate the amount of detail you slip in so casually without waffling on.
There are so many videos available but so few this good, THANK YOU!
Appreciate the love!! Glad you enjoyed the video.
Jason you are one of the best VW instructors. Keep up the beneficial work.
That means a lot!! I appreciate the support brother!
Really informative and useful video, Jason. I’m still in the ‘scared to death of splitting the case’ type of engine builder, but with your help I’m learning!
Ben 🇬🇧
Everyone starts somewhere Ben, never be afraid to take the jump into the unknown... this is the place where you will learn the most about yourself!
@@JWClassicVW I’m keen to have a go. I think I just need to find an old engine case where it doesn’t matter if I balls it up !!!
About to do a rebuild and really enjoying this series. You have a great manner for teaching, bit of humour and assume your audience has intelligence but lacks knowledge and experience. Then you communicate what is needed well. Cheers
Glad you like it man... I'm looking forward to finishing it at some point.
G'day Jason,
Kevin here from Australia.
Another great video to add to this series.
Some very important detail here . Remember it doesn't matter how long these early steps take get it wrong and you will probably end up with a boat anchor.
Anyhoo thankyou so much for sharing Jason .
Stay safe and stay well.
✌ Peace
Hey hey Kevin!! Hope all is well brother, thanks for the support man. Yup just trying to cover all those details I know people may be unfamiliar with. If I help one person I'll consider the video a successful endeavor!
Thanks Jason on covering the Plasigauge comparison, that helped 👍👍
No problem 👍
What? You’re not running it in the dishwasher? That was the best thing I’ve seen. 😁
Lol... I did at one point...😃😃😃
Enjoyed watching.
Awesome thanks brother 🙏
Jason. I use a little colored grease on the saddles, to indicate where i need to notch the bearings for oil hole alignment . Great job on the video Jason . Zoom Zoom.
That's a good idea too! The only thing is I'd probably wipe it off by accident... lol
Your so great you can be a teacher thanks.
Thanks!! Appreciate you 🙏
Ran across your video good content for a Newby like me
Glad your enjoying the channel brother.
Thanks for the video and the educational tools bro. keep them coming
You bet, thanks for being here and the support!!
I would use a copper head hammer to tap bearing dowls in it cases damage on the engin it causes litt or no damage to any parts on assembly .
Nice clear explanations, Good work!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks 🙏 brother 🔧🔧🔧
No problem 👍
Well seen to clean the block in the carwash! Obvious. I was already thinking where do I spray it clean without annoying the boss! 😂👍
Lol... yes don't want to get caught by the Mrs... lol
Iwont you trying idf injection type in your engines
Am now trying it on 1.6L
its amazing no need adjustments works perfect
You can see my test start on video
You can use any type of ecu
Iuse vw golf all same and owen wiring and works 1.6 and it works with bigger engine without programming only when add turbo that time need more fuel so programming should be
Thx for video great job you doing😍
Someday in the future I will build an EFI BEAST... just not yet! Thanks for being here brother!
What year/engine vw golf??
Nice job man 😍
Glad you like it!
Great video & love that you dont waste time on small talk. Whats you opinion on straight cut cam gears thx...
There is all kinds of info out there and opinions as well, I believe that when you have a higher power engine that may be spending some time in the higher RPM range say above 5G then they can definitely help reduce the stress on the valve train.
not a bad idea using a pressure washer, I think what I'll do with the 2 blocks I got is coat them in a degreaser, let it sit for an hour or two, then spray them clean, and inspect from there
That is a good way of doing to... I also used 2 cans of Gunk engine degreaser. Just not on video 😉
Great Video
Thanks Patrick!! Glad you liked it brother!
Wow; your wife is a saint! I couldn’t do that in my kitchen! 🤣😂
Lol... im single brother. But yup I know what your saying... 😄😁😆
@@JWClassicVW Oooohhhh!! NO WONDER!!!! 🤣😂
Good info. 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Good use of the kitchen sink, lol.
Sometimes being single has its benefits!! Lol
@@JWClassicVW No wonder you have all those loot to spend on Goose. Lol.
That is the truth brother!! 100%%%%
Jason, when mounting your rods to the crank, where is the crank key way?
180 brother, in the video when mounted in the vise the keyway in down.
Hi ya and good morning from good old blighty.
I've built a couple of air cooled and happy to say had some good success. I'm about to start on my 1.9dg water boxer. Can I take this info and apply it to that engine of are they different?
Not sure how much would apply, I believe there are some differences.
I cant get a pin/dowel out. Great. : (
Now I think I have to drill and tap it. Chewed up the end trying to get it out. One thing after another.
Firstly great video man love this also need some advice, so my rods are free to spin easy but not as easy as you have yours is that a huge problem or what is your opinion
thanks in advance
Well brother you may have some tight bearings there. Sometimes you can wash the bearing with a scotch bright pad to obtain proper oil clearance but first, you need to check it. The Plasti Gauge can help you confirm your gap once torqued down properly. If it's too tight you may need to have the crank turned and polished. Hope this helps... the last thing you want is to burn up a journal surface and rod bearing.
@@JWClassicVW thanks I appreciate the response and I will do that, I don’t want to completely re build the engine just to re do it again lol - as fun as it is my wallet doesn’t allow that haha. Thanks for the help
@@JWClassicVW also how do I match up the bearing sizes with the result of the plastic gauge.
Hi Jason, not sure if I told you but the 40h measurements are all good and still stock. is there something I can use to clean off the oil stain on the main bearing saddles or just leave them alone other than using brake clean on them?
Really don't need to clean them to much if the stains are bothering you a little bit of 0000 steel wool should clean it no problem.
cool, just didn't want to disturb the metal since it's still measuring good. But didn't want to put new bushings on top of it. Waiting on the weather to get warm enough around here to continue cleaning the case halves. Seattle has been super wet and cold this year more than normal.
@TimsWorkshopTJY 0000 steel wool with some WD40 will be more like polishing the seat. You could also use like 800 or 1000 Grit sandpaper.
Thanks Jason for your help.
Did you align bore the case?
Case didn't require a line bore... everything checked out and was within spec.
Got a question? Got all the locator bearing pins out except for the aft one that take the smaller bearing. I tried a magnet and needle nose but it's really in there? I could let the machine shop worry about it before they alinebore it. Unless you have dealt with this before? let me know. I guess I could heat the area around it just enough to pull it out maybe?
Yup... I've had to heat it up as well. Sometimes they still won't cone out, then leave it to the machine shop.
Do i need to remove the oil pickup tube for the machine shop to alinebore or just leave it?
You can leave it in.
I wonder how you are using plastigauge
What are you wondering about it...? plastigauge is pretty straight forward as a crush type gauge.
Do you ever use plasigauge when your rebuilding you engines. Just curious I have rebuilt many V8 and V6 engines in the past 40 years and always use it and never had a failure.
It's covered in a later part of this series.
Oh man a simple yes or no would be good.
Lol... that was a yes. Didn't know if you wanted to know if there was a video.
Can we check for line bore at home ?
Yes you can if you have the bore Gauge. You'll need to torque the case halfs together and then inspect each main bearing location for out of round and run out. At the same time you'll be checking for differences between each bearing location. The truth is if you can see any imprint of the old bearing info on the journal surface you probably need a line bore.
@@JWClassicVW ok thank you. Ive done tons of american engine rebuilds since the early 70s but this is my first trip on a total splitting the case vw rebuild.
What book are you looking at? And where do I get one?
That is the Bentley Service Manual.
@@JWClassicVW what year is the applicability?
I’m building the same engine. But I plan to add dual carbs and cam. Any recommendations there?
@@scottalvey1787 I have 2, one for 1960 - 65 and one for early 1952 - 1957.
Hay Jason I also want to build a 1600 engine , being a guy we all would want max horse power for no extra cost, is there perhaps a motor combination that is your favourite for street like cc, cam size ,Carbies, also taking cost into account we like max bang for our buck thanks buddy. Harry
Good question I just answered... lol check it out!
Where can i get a decent distributor drive gear to buy.
CIP1.com is where I picked mine up... they also have the little washers required if you don't have them.
@@JWClassicVW Ok thanks.
Jason, question, bought an aftermarket flywheel and getting ready to mount my con rods. Noticed my crank doesn’t fit all the way into the flywheel hub. It appears the crank OD and flywheel hub ID is a interference fit? What’s going on here.
Keep rotating the crank... they are keyed in a particular way.
@@JWClassicVW I’ve rotated in all positions, still the same result. Samba says it should be a tight fit. I’m worried it will get stuck and then what...any chance you can cover this? BTW, all dowels line up fine. And, the flywheel has the o ring groove.
So I figured it out. Slight interference, no problem. Moving onward!
How in THE hell does that oil gallery NOT align within .001" of the bearing??? Don't they know what kind of engine they're making them for???
It's crazy but you'll find this with most bearing manufacturers... really not sure why, but yeah it's crazy.
Vw porn..yaaaa.
What book is that??
That manual.
That is the Bentley Blue Book service manual. See link below.
amzn.to/2J3F5fH
You mean one and a half thousand not 15 thousand .
lol... right I always jack that up... this is why I like metric!
.0015 is not 15.. it is read 15 hundredths or 1 & a 1/2 thou, sorry I don't know how to write that in decimal.