This was a REALL informative video. I agree. 1.5hrs is a big ask... I was loving every minute! This will definitely come in handy with my refit. Thanks for sharing. Special thanks to Chris wherever you are!
These senior shipwrights/ shipbuilders are the last of a dying breed. Much respect to this guy. He is a good teacher and I’m sure has passed along his trade secrets to some of the younger generation. As a 5 year shipbuilder for DDG 51’s, I try and pick as many brains of the senior mechanics as I can. They are retiring rapidly.
I have a deep love for videos where someone is an expert and they explain their craft to me. I am a school teacher so anyone that can effectively explain difficult concepts, and keep me engaged, is very high in my book. Thanks for this.
I almost skipped through to the end to see just the important bits of the process. Luckily, I realised that the important bits, is everything he is saying as he's working. Massive amount of information, experience and wisdom.
I've watched a bunch of DIY epoxy resin patches done, most above waterline, and some below...but I have never seen a more in depth explanation of the choices and the pros and cons before. I am Subscribing, excellent educational video. At one point when describing vinyl he got cut off when explaining if you could gelcoat directly onto Vinyl or if you needed to do something first before Gelcoat. Wish I got that sentence back..
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you, for taking the time to make this video. If you see Chris please thank him for sharing. He's a true professional, craftsman, and teacher demonstrated by his selfless willingness to share so much knowledge and experience. I have watched dozens of how-to fiberglassing videos and none was as good as this one. I'm just waiting for the snow to melt before I start a similar repair on my Cape Dory. The next time I watch this I will be taking notes. It was also fun to hear the birth of your tech channel. Great idea! Fair winds and safe travels. Geoff from St Paul, MN
Boy Nick, I can see this "O'Kelly Tech" really taking off and providing a truly educational support channel for all of us cruisers. This one was fantastic and Chris is a natural teacher too as well as yourself. I learned so much after watching this video, thanks a lot. Can't wait to see how many more and what different topics we will get. Pete
To those who seem to think that this man's opinion of how to do proper fiberglass repair should take heed! Remember his comment about the lower section of the whole keel wasn't joined with anything but chop strand? And also drilling and filling the voids! If the keel had chop strand the full length, in my opinion would mean to me, open up the keel where the void is, and start the process there! Repair if just a small part of the problem, has Not properly repaired it completely! I have been working with fiberglass and composites and all phases of Glasswork since 1958. Still do not call myself the authority on the subject Yet, heard and observed several things on this review that seemed to not meet with my approval! In closing, I would have been more traditional with the whole process and cut more area out and replaced it all with 1708 and can with polyester resin as the whole vessel is constructed with and when finished properly. Final coat with Epoxy barrier coat before bottom paint! Job Done!
You guys are so lucky to have Chris Carl dealing with this repair. Have just spoken with Chris about a repair I need to do on my Contest 43 (Cutter, cruiser). Chris input and suggestions are invaluable! Just wish my boat was still in the Palm Beach area. Many pros can do a good glass repair but very few can be so smart in understanding the integration of the repair with the entire boat's structure and sailing forces. Thank you Chris and thanks Megan and Nick for presenting this work of art!
I'm impressed with his lifetime experience. I read some of the others comments that were saying his method wasn't the best method, compared to their own. My view of this was, I learned that prepping the layers ahead of the actual epoxy use was best. This was the key to successfully getting the damaged area repaired. Whether the other critical comments are right and this gentleman is wrong, really seems not the issue. His method is very informative. And I think back to my own repairs to my boat, and I now realize I didn't have enuf layers. I only had 4 layers on my hull. This area was under the driver console where I went over a tree trunk hidden under the surface.
The DIY question regarding craftsmanship was an excellent question to ask this professional. He really was happy and comfortable to share his knowledge.
All of the questions, that get asked so often, answered clearly and succinctly. Great video. Other things to consider in the polyester vs vinylester vs epoxy decision, for a boater, are shelf life and temperature range. If you're going to keep resin on your boat for repairs at an unknown time in the future, choose epoxy.
Polyester resin will go bad at higher temperature very fast! But will last a long time when cooler-especally in the freezer. For the long haul epoxy is the best! Epoxy is stronger and more flexible.
Thank you for your informative video it's guys like you who make sailing /boating still affordable. Nothing like getting the correct information from a true professional.
Thank you sir, great info and I was just repairing a bathtube. now I feel more confident in using glass to do other things. Central California watching.
Thanks Chris Lots of good info. I have a sea ray that got lifted by storm surge and left on top of sea wall during Hurricane Sally I will be repairing the keel area in the next month or so temps are getting about right also I will be repairing the swim platform as well some chunks taken out of it. I have only had cursory inspection and I have lots of pics of marina damage lots of total losses. I will post my progress as I proceed if it doesn’t look to bad. Orange Beach area got hit hard we probably lost 30 to 40% of boats.
Thank you so much Chris, Your a true master at this. Its so rare to have some who can do a repair but to understand all the chemical and mechanical reactions taking place is next level stuff. i am currently working on the for deck and swim platform for a 46 Carver. it has soft spots from the balsa core being wet with water. Also has a non skid diamond pattern in the gel coat. This is my issue. Yes, i am kinda new to this but i also want to master these skills. I just want to say thank you for all this information your giving.
I have watched many fiberglass work videos and you get a few bits of information here, a few there and have to try to put it all together in your head. But this... this is thoroughly covered and complete. A DIYer's wet dream. Great idea, great channel so far. I'm sure we'll get some equally good sewing projects displayed here as well, right?
Thanks Nick a great video, wow Chris, not only has the skills but is able to articulate what and why. Especially the nuance between epoxy and the other resins. I have bookmarked this, much appropriated :)
This video was just FASCINATING! I really learned a lot and still have a lot to learn, but I loved the details, the explanations, everything! Fantastic work guys! THANK YOU!
I've played with fiberglass in the past and I wish I had seen this video 10 years ago. I see how I was doing it for the most part all wrong. I enjoyed Chris as a teacher, I'd love more content like this, doesn't have to be fiberglass, but hands on how to do it content.
I am on the other side of Florida to you Chris. I have a very similar repair to do on my Morgan 44 keel. I have a larger area with a bigger void to fill. This video has been extremely helpful and will get repeatedly reviewed. I'll take photos and let you know how it goes. Thanks so much. Guys
Hey there Nick, for some reason YT isn't informing me of these episodes. But I'm here now. Interesting technique from this fellow. I'll have to refer this to my goto guy for glasswork. Thanks for the information. All my best to Megs
Best video i have seen in fiberglassing, great to have this level of detail to know when one needs a pro and if one is getting pro level work or short cuts. thanks a bunch for this great video - best wishes, stay safe
Never used them on fiberglass, but have 2 pairs of Fiskars scissors that I bought as a set for $5 at a swap meet 40+ years ago and they still look and cut like new.
Wow. Wonderful information. I was tempted to take notes and I don't even own a boat. But this certainly makes me appreciate how much skilled labor goes into professional glass repair below the waterline. Would vacuum-bagging the repair area be best for the strongest patch, or overkill?
I've been in the pro 'glass' business on and off for as long as Chris probably. I like everything he is saying.... the one thing I would question is I would prefer to see the CSM layer against the old hull as it provides the better bond with more fiber contact.But with the use of epoxy you will have no problem. Re the epoxy vs polyester ......it's the elongation of the resin that is different. Epoxy is about 5-7% but polyester is 1-2%. But the glass is 3-4% so in an epoxy laminate the glass gets under load before the resin is 'stretched too far' . In the polyester the resin is stressed sooner so the laminate is not as strong. ( sort of) Vinyl resins also have good elongation and also very good chemical resistance , better than epoxy. But they are a pain to work with are they are thick and sticky , like epoxy. All good stuff! Chris has certainly been around and done it all , you were very luck to get him to work on your brown. Re old epoxy resin......the West epoxy does last really well. Some other epoxies if you let them get cold for a long time they will get crystals in the resin. It's still good but you MUST warm it slowly in a water bath at 120-160 deg until they completely dissolve . Then the resin is good again , do not use the liquid stuff without dissolving the crystals in. Oh by the way colloidal silica is used in a lot of food to make it thicker , like toothpaste, ketchup etc.....but fully wet out it's safe! Cheers Warren
Just finished my first keel repair on a 14ft Marlborough dart. Followed almost the exact instructions from the west system fiberglass repair manual. Which is arguably comprised of years master tech experienced and knowledge. Should have saved myself ten bucks and watched this video. nice job. and for people commenting they would apply CSM first and polyester resin . I don't know why you would, when a vinyl ester or definitely epoxy resin is far superior in adhering to the old surfaces
Dave did you use fiberglass when you fixed your keel I have keel damage but the fiberglass is not hurt just the gelcoat so I don't know if I could just put epoxy back over it or I have to add cloth to it
@@JamesWhite-tg4kw I used several layers of bi axial cloth at different widths. Mine was in a very bad way. Is the gelcoat is worn through in a large area because it's been brought up on the hard or the sand many times or just minor chips from small impacts.
The boat construction is interesting. It looks like the keels are just bolted and glued onto the main hull. Apparently with little faring I too! At least keel damage will not effect the integrity of the hull . I was surprised he thought the white was fairing and not just over thick gelcoat. Re chopped strand glass/mat ... 95% of all fiberglass products are made with with this. Most boat have the higher strength woven or linear fiberglass in them for extra strength with less weight. 'Visqueen' an old British brand name for ordinary polyethylene plastic film. If you use Mylar film ( a polyester film) it won't wrinkle as not effected by the solvents. But is won't stretch either. Chris is a wealth of knowledge , thanks for posting. Cheers Warren
30:00 As someone who have worked decades with fiberglass, i am amazed that this guy have no clue why the CSM (Chop strand mat) on the back of the bidirectional is there for.... CSM there is to ensure adhesion to the directional layer from the next layer and effectively bonding those 2 directional layers together. think glueing 2 pieces of wood together as an X - not happening! Now add a bonding layer that both growth directions of wood have can adhere to and you are in bsns. Also it is to smooth out the layer between the 2, so that you have a straight layer instead of an curvey one - which can stretch or at least have no pull strength. Scraping off the CSM like he is doing, makes the laminate prone to delamination. Leaving it in clumps as he does, defeat the purpose of it - to make the directional have a straight line. Anyway - directional mats have no better value than normal CSM, when applied to small repperations, unless as repair for an already reinforced (directional) layer. For a keel the main focus should be on compression force, since that is the force it is undertaking the most - applying directional to a small area like that is simply just unprofessional. But hey, if you get someone to call yourself expert or pastor, you can get away with anything......
I was looking for this comment so I didn't have to post it. For a "pro", he misrepresented poly and vinylester resins calling epoxy "better". The resins are situational and depend on many factors that do not include what you can get your hands on. He also didn't cover ameline blush from epoxy, he just said you need to sand it. Then he went backwards on his 1708 cutouts (that i know is controversial so ill let that one go). He sounds like he watched a bunch of UA-cam videos and tried to sound like a pro. I've been in this business for 15 years and im still learning but im glad I know enough to not learn from this guy. Ill give him a D but that is only because he must know some stuff so I won't give an F. I do give an A for his level of bullshitting and used salesmanship qualities. Anyhow, was fun to listen to in the background while at the shop working on a 1977 mako 17 full restore, the right way. Also, fumed silica is not called goopy stuff.
@@MRScrubNasty Andy from Boatworks is very knowledgeable on fiberglass check it out if you haven't he states use smaller fiberglass as the first base and work outwards to larger pieces. It would have more strength and bondage.
This is a lot different than acft repair. After repair would be started with the smaller patch going on first and then work your way up to the largest patch. But I like how you do this.
In the military for aircraft repairs, we build (simple explanation) the center out. But of course, we use hot bonder and vacuum for 99% of all wet layups. I'm curious, so I'm going to watch the complete video.
I'm excited to learn how to do 'glass work. I randomly discovered through work (I'm in IT) that I really enjoy soldering. I suspect that 'glass work would likewise be satisfying.
I hope this man has an opportunity to teach SOMEONE , unbelievable knowledge that should be passed on . 🙌this is a professional take note 📝 ppl. Thanks for sharing 🙏
Only one thing overlooked in this video is that the danger of pressing out too much resin from the laminate is that you get potentially get air sucked into laminate and create bubbles. Why is FAR worse than having a little bit more resin. Not sure if it also happened to him or he’s referring to low spots at 1:08:14
Wow. This is great. I've tried fiberglass repair in the past and, well, let's not get into that. I do have one question - Is it not necessary to provide a rough surface for better mechanical adhesion? I know epoxy resin is great, but it's only a chemical adhesion. Or am I missing something? I saw that Chris put the milled fiber in the mix, but the repair area looks so smooth, like there is no topography to latch onto.
I have a 19 8422 foot hunter and it’s got the swing key in it but tequila is wobbly the centerboard it’s wobbly and if you look up under there the hole where that pin goes through it walled out
For the viewers…Epoxies have many formulations for different use cases (they are not all the same). It is important to select an epoxy for the application: existing material(s) to which the epoxy will bond, strength characteristics (not all epoxy is flexible), surface prep, final depth of fill, ambient conditions, and time to cure. Manufacturers specs are crucial. Silica hardens the matrix (a bit like aggregate in concrete) not change brittleness appreciably (unless too much is added). If the manufacturer doesn’t spec silica adds, experiment on sample coupons before doing the actual repair.
Wow! I have been working with epoxy&glass for dozens of hours - this Gentleman just taught me something new with every single sentence.
It's such a pleasure to watch a true expert doing a repair. His step by step explanation really makes it easy to understand. Thanks
The best explanation of how to properly apply glass and epoxy that I have ever seen.
This was a REALL informative video. I agree. 1.5hrs is a big ask... I was loving every minute! This will definitely come in handy with my refit. Thanks for sharing. Special thanks to Chris wherever you are!
I rarely watch an hour long tech video without fast forward. This one? every word is gold. No substitute to this kind of experience.👍
¹
These senior shipwrights/ shipbuilders are the last of a dying breed. Much respect to this guy. He is a good teacher and I’m sure has passed along his trade secrets to some of the younger generation. As a 5 year shipbuilder for DDG 51’s, I try and pick as many brains of the senior mechanics as I can. They are retiring rapidly.
Yes me to more than once
I have a deep love for videos where someone is an expert and they explain their craft to me. I am a school teacher so anyone that can effectively explain difficult concepts, and keep me engaged, is very high in my book. Thanks for this.
Damn, that was the most informative and articulate knowledge on fiber glass that I have ever watched. I like these videos you guys have.
I almost skipped through to the end to see just the important bits of the process.
Luckily, I realised that the important bits, is everything he is saying as he's working.
Massive amount of information, experience and wisdom.
I've watched a bunch of DIY epoxy resin patches done, most above waterline, and some below...but I have never seen a more in depth explanation of the choices and the pros and cons before. I am Subscribing, excellent educational video. At one point when describing vinyl he got cut off when explaining if you could gelcoat directly onto Vinyl or if you needed to do something first before Gelcoat. Wish I got that sentence back..
Don’t even know how I ended up here, but watched the whole video. Very well explained and informative!
I did the same thing
Yes
Great video Thanks
I did as well. So much information.
Need more of Chris , he's the man !
Wow... I learned so much here. Thank you very much for this video. Three years old and still teaching folks like me.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you, for taking the time to make this video. If you see Chris please thank him for sharing. He's a true professional, craftsman, and teacher demonstrated by his selfless willingness to share so much knowledge and experience. I have watched dozens of how-to fiberglassing videos and none was as good as this one. I'm just waiting for the snow to melt before I start a similar repair on my Cape Dory. The next time I watch this I will be taking notes. It was also fun to hear the birth of your tech channel. Great idea! Fair winds and safe travels. Geoff from St Paul, MN
Love it Geoff, thanks for your note! Good luck with your Cape Dory.
Boy Nick, I can see this "O'Kelly Tech" really taking off and providing a truly educational support channel for all of us cruisers. This one was fantastic and Chris is a natural teacher too as well as yourself. I learned so much after watching this video, thanks a lot.
Can't wait to see how many more and what different topics we will get.
Pete
Aww thanks Peter so happy to hear it!
I see it too!
“The Teckelly’s talk”
Go for it Nick!
To those who seem to think that this man's opinion of how to do proper fiberglass repair should take heed! Remember his comment about the lower section of the whole keel wasn't joined with anything but chop strand? And also drilling and filling the voids! If the keel had chop strand the full length, in my opinion would mean to me, open up the keel where the void is, and start the process there! Repair if just a small part of the problem, has Not properly repaired it completely! I have been working with fiberglass and composites and all phases of Glasswork since 1958. Still do not call myself the authority on the subject Yet, heard and observed several things on this review that seemed to not meet with my approval! In closing, I would have been more traditional with the whole process and cut more area out and replaced it all with 1708 and can with polyester resin as the whole vessel is constructed with and when finished properly. Final coat with Epoxy barrier coat before bottom paint! Job Done!
Don't do what he did. This should be how a DIY pro watched a ton of UA-cam videos and tries it out.
Thanks Chris and the O'Kellies for a very informative episode, great to know the finer points of fibreglass from a pro 🙏😉
I hope you brought Chris a great lunch for what i think is the very best fiberglass repair video on youtube.
You guys are so lucky to have Chris Carl dealing with this repair. Have just spoken with Chris about a repair I need to do on my Contest 43 (Cutter, cruiser). Chris input and suggestions are invaluable! Just wish my boat was still in the Palm Beach area. Many pros can do a good glass repair but very few can be so smart in understanding the integration of the repair with the entire boat's structure and sailing forces. Thank you Chris and thanks Megan and Nick for presenting this work of art!
best west system epoxy video i have seen ever. fantastic
thank you
Older gentleman is expert for repairing in plastics on ships. Every respect.
Jesus. This Guy knows his onions. That was definitely an education. I loved it. Great job.
Thanks for giving us a place to see the nitty-gritty details that so many times are glossed over!
You’re so welcome, so happy you appreciate it!
I'm researching for some repairs I need to do and just found this ... one of the better epoxy repair tutes that are out there. It is excellent.
Awesome video of fiberglass repair! Experience is always a determining factor in getting a good repair job! Excellent job Chris!
I'm impressed with his lifetime experience. I read some of the others comments that were saying his method wasn't the best method, compared to their own. My view of this was, I learned that prepping the layers ahead of the actual epoxy use was best. This was the key to successfully getting the damaged area repaired. Whether the other critical comments are right and this gentleman is wrong, really seems not the issue. His method is very informative. And I think back to my own repairs to my boat, and I now realize I didn't have enuf layers. I only had 4 layers on my hull. This area was under the driver console where I went over a tree trunk hidden under the surface.
The DIY question regarding craftsmanship was an excellent question to ask this professional. He really was happy and comfortable to share his knowledge.
Thanks Tim, Chris is a natural like Nick.
All of the questions, that get asked so often, answered clearly and succinctly. Great video. Other things to consider in the polyester vs vinylester vs epoxy decision, for a boater, are shelf life and temperature range. If you're going to keep resin on your boat for repairs at an unknown time in the future, choose epoxy.
Polyester resin will go bad at higher temperature very fast! But will last a long time when cooler-especally in the freezer. For the long haul epoxy is the best! Epoxy is stronger and more flexible.
I've watched a lot of fiberglass videos - this was the best!
Peel ply can use polyester shower curtain 🤔 as a substitute...have taken a lot of info from this many thanks from the Uk 😁👍🏻🇬🇧
So glad you started this channel. One of the best if not THE BEST video on fiberglass repairs I have seen. Chris was awesome! Thanks for sharing! :-)
The best I,ve ever seen. I,ve not seen anybody use cotton fibres between layers plus the time he takes to squeeze the last drop of resin out
This could be the best fiberglass tutorial on the web. Extremely informative and just what I was looking for. Thanks!
I watched every single second with pleasure. Big thanks for such informative video!
Learnt more on this ViD On 1708 and theory behind fibreglass than most I have seen 👍
Thank you for your informative video it's guys like you who make sailing /boating still affordable. Nothing like getting the correct information from a true professional.
Somehow it sticks at the back of my mind that he went from a cooking show to fiberglass repair.
Thank you sir, great info and I was just repairing a bathtube. now I feel more confident in using glass to do other things.
Central California watching.
Awesome video brother. I had no idea I would watch every second of it but damn. He is a real pro. The info he provided if top notch. Amazing work 👍🔥
I hope this dude gets an apprentice. He has so much knowledge to impart.
Thanks Chris
Lots of good info. I have a sea ray that got lifted by storm surge and left on top of sea wall during Hurricane Sally I will be repairing the keel area in the next month or so temps are getting about right also I will be repairing the swim platform as well some chunks taken out of it. I have only had cursory inspection and I have lots of pics of marina damage lots of total losses. I will post my progress as I proceed if it doesn’t look to bad. Orange Beach area got hit hard we probably lost 30 to 40% of boats.
Thank you so much Chris, Your a true master at this. Its so rare to have some who can do a repair but to understand all the chemical and mechanical reactions taking place is next level stuff. i am currently working on the for deck and swim platform for a 46 Carver. it has soft spots from the balsa core being wet with water. Also has a non skid diamond pattern in the gel coat. This is my issue. Yes, i am kinda new to this but i also want to master these skills. I just want to say thank you for all this information your giving.
I have watched many fiberglass work videos and you get a few bits of information here, a few there and have to try to put it all together in your head. But this... this is thoroughly covered and complete. A DIYer's wet dream. Great idea, great channel so far. I'm sure we'll get some equally good sewing projects displayed here as well, right?
Thank you Edward and yes I have some sewing projects in the works!
Thanks Nick a great video, wow Chris, not only has the skills but is able to articulate what and why. Especially the nuance between epoxy and the other resins. I have bookmarked this, much appropriated :)
I loved every minute of this video, and this gentleman, I bet is worth every cent.
Tf4
This video was just FASCINATING! I really learned a lot and still have a lot to learn, but I loved the details, the explanations, everything! Fantastic work guys! THANK YOU!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for your note!
Very informative should be more of this, the experience of a master.
Thanks for all the awesome knowledge sir. 👌Some things you just won't find in a book. Cheers from NYC🗽😷🇺🇸
I've played with fiberglass in the past and I wish I had seen this video 10 years ago. I see how I was doing it for the most part all wrong. I enjoyed Chris as a teacher, I'd love more content like this, doesn't have to be fiberglass, but hands on how to do it content.
I am on the other side of Florida to you Chris. I have a very similar repair to do on my Morgan 44 keel. I have a larger area with a bigger void to fill. This video has been extremely helpful and will get repeatedly reviewed. I'll take photos and let you know how it goes. Thanks so much. Guys
EXPERT 10/10
THANK GOD I FOUND THIS VIDEO AGAIN!!! NEARLY LOST IT
Great video! Billion thanks to the operator and Teacher!!!
Nice video! Thanks for sharing! I've watched 100s of fibreglass video and I've still learned a few things new! 👍
the best vid about glasing I saw! And I saw an awful lot.
Thanks a lot!
Wow, thank you!
Hey there Nick, for some reason YT isn't informing me of these episodes. But I'm here now. Interesting technique from this fellow. I'll have to refer this to my goto guy for glasswork. Thanks for the information. All my best to Megs
Best video i have seen in fiberglassing, great to have this level of detail to know when one needs a pro and if one is getting pro level work or short cuts. thanks a bunch for this great video - best wishes, stay safe
Glad it was helpful!
What an education! You are a true craftsman. Thanks for sharing your vast experience.
Has in in Theory and in Practice, great Skillset...
Idk what t say, this is the best FG video out... strong work guys
I work at a marina and have almost a decade worth of glasswork and this video is awesome. This guy knows his shit
Love this video, 1 because I have a similar repair I need to do and 2 well, the vinegar tip for sure! Plus many other reasons, great video, thankyou!
Never used them on fiberglass, but have 2 pairs of Fiskars scissors that I bought as a set for $5 at a swap meet 40+ years ago and they still look and cut like new.
Wow. Wonderful information. I was tempted to take notes and I don't even own a boat. But this certainly makes me appreciate how much skilled labor goes into professional glass repair below the waterline. Would vacuum-bagging the repair area be best for the strongest patch, or overkill?
I have a big divit on my keel to repair, thank you thank you for this instructional video.
The best info i had in 3 months thank u Sir.
I've been in the pro 'glass' business on and off for as long as Chris probably. I like everything he is saying.... the one thing I would question is I would prefer to see the CSM layer against the old hull as it provides the better bond with more fiber contact.But with the use of epoxy you will have no problem.
Re the epoxy vs polyester ......it's the elongation of the resin that is different. Epoxy is about 5-7% but polyester is 1-2%. But the glass is 3-4% so in an epoxy laminate the glass gets under load before the resin is 'stretched too far' . In the polyester the resin is stressed sooner so the laminate is not as strong. ( sort of) Vinyl resins also have good elongation and also very good chemical resistance , better than epoxy. But they are a pain to work with are they are thick and sticky , like epoxy.
All good stuff! Chris has certainly been around and done it all , you were very luck to get him to work on your brown.
Re old epoxy resin......the West epoxy does last really well. Some other epoxies if you let them get cold for a long time they will get crystals in the resin. It's still good but you MUST warm it slowly in a water bath at 120-160 deg until they completely dissolve . Then the resin is good again , do not use the liquid stuff without dissolving the crystals in.
Oh by the way colloidal silica is used in a lot of food to make it thicker , like toothpaste, ketchup etc.....but fully wet out it's safe!
Cheers Warren
Perfectly reasonable and very informative, thanks a million Warren!
Just finished my first keel repair on a 14ft Marlborough dart. Followed almost the exact instructions from the west system fiberglass repair manual. Which is arguably comprised of years master tech experienced and knowledge. Should have saved myself ten bucks and watched this video. nice job. and for people commenting they would apply CSM first and polyester resin . I don't know why you would, when a vinyl ester or definitely epoxy resin is far superior in adhering to the old surfaces
Dave did you use fiberglass when you fixed your keel I have keel damage but the fiberglass is not hurt just the gelcoat so I don't know if I could just put epoxy back over it or I have to add cloth to it
@@JamesWhite-tg4kw I used several layers of bi axial cloth at different widths. Mine was in a very bad way. Is the gelcoat is worn through in a large area because it's been brought up on the hard or the sand many times or just minor chips from small impacts.
The boat construction is interesting. It looks like the keels are just bolted and glued onto the main hull. Apparently with little faring I too!
At least keel damage will not effect the integrity of the hull .
I was surprised he thought the white was fairing and not just over thick gelcoat.
Re chopped strand glass/mat ... 95% of all fiberglass products are made with with this. Most boat have the higher strength woven or linear fiberglass in them for extra strength with less weight.
'Visqueen' an old British brand name for ordinary polyethylene plastic film.
If you use Mylar film ( a polyester film) it won't wrinkle as not effected by the solvents. But is won't stretch either.
Chris is a wealth of knowledge , thanks for posting.
Cheers Warren
Great video - and yes, Thank you Chris!
Y’all are right! This man needs a channel. I could watch it for hours! Oh wait I just did 😂
This is the most legit video on the internet!
An interesting video on methodology of repair layup.heck a lot more involved with better explanation and demonstration.
Thank you very much for sharing this knowledge & experience.
Great Tutorial , thank you very much. I learned so much here . Great job !
Great Job Chris!
Fantastic video.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing all u fine Knowles on how to do. 👍 👍 👍
Thank you Chris. Lots of detail.
Very good job explaining!
Great video! I spent time racing multihulls with the Gusion brothers. They are legends!
I believe you spelled their name wrong.
You are correct! I just looked it up and the spelling is Gougeon. Thanks for the heads up!
This guy is really good. Thanks for sharing.
Nice presentation, just enough for me, an amateur. Thank you..
Good video. I thought I knew about epoxy, but I picked up a few tidbits.
this guy needs his own channel !!!!!
30:00 As someone who have worked decades with fiberglass, i am amazed that this guy have no clue why the CSM (Chop strand mat) on the back of the bidirectional is there for....
CSM there is to ensure adhesion to the directional layer from the next layer and effectively bonding those 2 directional layers together.
think glueing 2 pieces of wood together as an X - not happening! Now add a bonding layer that both growth directions of wood have can adhere to and you are in bsns.
Also it is to smooth out the layer between the 2, so that you have a straight layer instead of an curvey one - which can stretch or at least have no pull strength.
Scraping off the CSM like he is doing, makes the laminate prone to delamination. Leaving it in clumps as he does, defeat the purpose of it - to make the directional have a straight line.
Anyway - directional mats have no better value than normal CSM, when applied to small repperations, unless as repair for an already reinforced (directional) layer.
For a keel the main focus should be on compression force, since that is the force it is undertaking the most - applying directional to a small area like that is simply just unprofessional.
But hey, if you get someone to call yourself expert or pastor, you can get away with anything......
I was looking for this comment so I didn't have to post it. For a "pro", he misrepresented poly and vinylester resins calling epoxy "better". The resins are situational and depend on many factors that do not include what you can get your hands on. He also didn't cover ameline blush from epoxy, he just said you need to sand it. Then he went backwards on his 1708 cutouts (that i know is controversial so ill let that one go). He sounds like he watched a bunch of UA-cam videos and tried to sound like a pro. I've been in this business for 15 years and im still learning but im glad I know enough to not learn from this guy. Ill give him a D but that is only because he must know some stuff so I won't give an F. I do give an A for his level of bullshitting and used salesmanship qualities. Anyhow, was fun to listen to in the background while at the shop working on a 1977 mako 17 full restore, the right way. Also, fumed silica is not called goopy stuff.
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@@MRScrubNasty Andy from Boatworks is very knowledgeable on fiberglass check it out if you haven't he states use smaller fiberglass as the first base and work outwards to larger pieces. It would have more strength and bondage.
@@thayward65 yea I have watched probably 90% of his videos. He is an amazing teacher and great at what he does.
And i have always been taught, small first up to large. This guy did a lot wrong.
Well done Very interesting video and thanks for asking the question for us ☺️
This is a lot different than acft repair. After repair would be started with the smaller patch going on first and then work your way up to the largest patch. But I like how you do this.
In the military for aircraft repairs, we build (simple explanation) the center out. But of course, we use hot bonder and vacuum for 99% of all wet layups. I'm curious, so I'm going to watch the complete video.
That is exactly how it should have been done here.
One thing I have found for removing fiberglass fibers from arms, clothing, etc is sticky tape lint rollers. Simple, works great.
I'm excited to learn how to do 'glass work. I randomly discovered through work (I'm in IT) that I really enjoy soldering. I suspect that 'glass work would likewise be satisfying.
@@cheapcigs9772 Having a noob along like me would ensure they remain sacrificial. LOL
I hope this man has an opportunity to teach SOMEONE , unbelievable knowledge that should be passed on . 🙌this is a professional take note 📝 ppl. Thanks for sharing 🙏
This was an amazing video!
Thanks Teko!
He is a Boss. Mads and Teal would be impressed.
Excellent vidéo !! We learn a lot many thanks
veeeeeryy good info. Thanks a lot
Great video and invaluable knowledge for us DIY’ers. Out of interest, What was the cost of that repair?
Great informative video thank you...
Only one thing overlooked in this video is that the danger of pressing out too much resin from the laminate is that you get potentially get air sucked into laminate and create bubbles. Why is FAR worse than having a little bit more resin.
Not sure if it also happened to him or he’s referring to low spots at 1:08:14
Great video, Thank You!
Wow. This is great. I've tried fiberglass repair in the past and, well, let's not get into that.
I do have one question - Is it not necessary to provide a rough surface for better mechanical adhesion? I know epoxy resin is great, but it's only a chemical adhesion. Or am I missing something? I saw that Chris put the milled fiber in the mix, but the repair area looks so smooth, like there is no topography to latch onto.
Read about "peel ply".It's at 51:57 in the video.
great explain by this guy thank you great film with huge knolage
I have a 19 8422 foot hunter and it’s got the swing key in it but tequila is wobbly the centerboard it’s wobbly and if you look up under there the hole where that pin goes through it walled out
For the viewers…Epoxies have many formulations for different use cases (they are not all the same). It is important to select an epoxy for the application: existing material(s) to which the epoxy will bond, strength characteristics (not all epoxy is flexible), surface prep, final depth of fill, ambient conditions, and time to cure. Manufacturers specs are crucial.
Silica hardens the matrix (a bit like aggregate in concrete) not change brittleness appreciably (unless too much is added). If the manufacturer doesn’t spec silica adds, experiment on sample coupons before doing the actual repair.