Deep dive into new Yoke shaft design with 3rd machine cut ua-cam.com/video/GnnPCrVgx0k/v-deo.html If interested in purchasing these products, visit our Amazon Affiliate links below, I earn from qualifying purchases. 1. GLM oil seal kit (87500) amzn.to/3njQWrT 2. Gasket compound sealant (1525607) amzn.to/3DcrJ8c 3. Old seal punch tool (89-101-19) 4. Water pocket cover amzn.to/3UWkIDO 5. Loctite 680 amzn.to/3wG0VKW 6. Spanner wrench amzn.to/31GwUiD 7. Inch pound torque wrench amzn.to/3G1aDLl Thanks!
I cannot thank you enough for all these videos. I have watched these over and over. Currently rebuilding a 1988 Alpha One, Gen 1 myself. Never had one before only outboards. I will say you make it look easy! Your videos go way faster than my actual work! Thank you for your time, trouble and efforts and attention to details.
Thank you, we are honored to read this. Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated. The 1988 Alpha one is darn near the same. That’s awesome you’re making it a DIY project. We will always be here to help answer questions. Reach out any time. 😁👍🧰
Hey what’s up, you are very welcome. Thanks for watching & sharing this! We are less than a week away from releasing our full lower unit rebuild series. We believe it will be helpful to many. Looking forward to hearing back from you on your thoughts & critiques. Hope all is well & we will definitely keep ‘em coming!!! 😎👍
Thank you, means a lot to us to read your comment. Hopefully your project is going well. Let us know if you have any questions and hey if you’re into crypto trading, join our DIY ecosystem and become part of an exclusive group of DIYers. toolboxtoken.com Reach out to us any time! 🧰
Good morning, we are drinking our morning coffee answering any and all questions for the DIY community. Maybe…😁 Let us know if you have any questions and hey if you’re into crypto trading, check out our newly launched DIY ecosystem. Toolboxtoken.com Reach out to us any time! 🧰
What’s up Brian, thanks for reaching out to us. Series has already been filmed, edited, & in the que for upload. Forecasting the lower unit rebuild videos to be uploaded in a few weeks. 😎👍
Hello, i was wondering why you didn't do all the shimming procedure with shimming tools. I'm going to change the 2 roller bearings and i need to know more about.
Thanks for watching, shimming will differ depending on your serial number and you will want to follow your exact service manual as opposed to ours. Keep us posted on your DIY project.
That's poop, you shim accordingly to get a good meshing mark, no one setting is going to provide you with the correct mesh which is why you adjust the Sims accordingly, you done have the experience!
Good morning, you are very welcome. We really enjoyed filming this rebuild. We have also filmed a full series on the lower unit rebuild. (PART 1) link is below. ua-cam.com/video/ehTA4BRH4t8/v-deo.html Keep us posted on your project, welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. Many more helpful videos to come!!!! 😎👍
Thanks for watching, we can hopefully help. If interested in purchasing this product, visit our Amazon affiliate link below. I from qualifying purchases. Nut: amzn.to/3VrfdNs Washer: amzn.to/4aRpAyw 👍🧰
Thanks for the video, I had one question, how do you know when the retainer ring nut is tightened correctly, is it just a case of tightening until it feels tight at the end of it's travel? I've seen some discussion of that nut being torqued down.
@@fiveowaf454 Thanks for watching. Are you installing standard gear and bearing kit or the newly designed press-fit kit? The standard will be a specific torque value, while the press-fit will be tightened using rolling resistance. 🧰
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Ill be reinstalling the original gears, the ring nut got damaged when one of the u joints came apart. I understand the rolling resistance part of the process, just not how tight the ring tightened with the special tool needs to be, somewhere I thought I'd read a huge figure like 200 ft lbs, but you just seemed to tighten it with the special wrench, not stating a torque.
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders According to the Bravo 3 manual I recently got access to, the bearing retaining ring nut should be tightened to 200ftlb using a torque wrench on the special tool itself, and using a conversion chart to calculate the actual torque setting for the torque wrench, given the wrench is inserted into the special tool in the 1/2" square in the handle, not working directly on the ring nut. That's a lot of torque which also raises the question as to how the one you removed, came loose with just a few blows with a rubber hammer.
@@fiveowaf454 Ok, you’re referring to the large retainer ring. That is different than the info we shared in previous comment… we thought you were referring to the pinion gear nut. We highly recommend following your serial number Bravo service manual and if it states 200ft-lb, it’s important to apply that torque to alleviate any damage or premature failure. 😎👍🧰
@@fiveowaf454 Thanks for the reply. 200ft-lb is on the higher end torque-wise. Most alpha outdrives will call for a lower torque value around 150-180ft-lb however it’s very important to get your exact value for your exact serial number outdrive from service manual. We installed the newly designed Press-fit gear and bearing kit and used the new rolling resistance procedure set forth by Mercruiser for the new kit.
Good video but I am confused on something. You say the pre-load is supposed to be 6-8 inch-lbs. my Mercruiser manual (18-03200) on section 10-18 states to "tighten the locking nut to a torque value of 85 ft-lbs." Which one is it? 6-8 inch-lbs or 85 ft-lbs? There's a huge difference between those 2 values for setting a pre-load. Also, your micrometer is being measured in nM, not inch lbs. I'm hoping you drive doesn't fail due to improper torque settings.
Thanks for watching, 85ft-lbs will be for the standard bearing kit while the new (Press-fit) bearing kit will be set using rolling resistance. Most important thing is to continue following your exact service manual. Hope this helps.
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Thanks. I contacted mercruiser regarding it also because I was confused. They told me whether it was a pressed gear or factory gear the rolling resistance should be 6-10 inch lbs! When installing back into the sterndrive and tightening the castle nut back on, The castle nut should be torqued to 200 ft lbs, however there is a chart to use when attaching your torque wrench to the castle nut wrench, you have to measure from center of torque wrench socket drive to the center of handle and look up on the chart. Different lengths have different values. My torque wrench is 15 inches, so torque on castle nut will be 111 Ft lbs when connecting torque wrench to the castle nut wrench.
hey @DIYwithMichaelBorders should there be play in and out. Like I can push the driveshaft against the gears and pull it out about 1/4 in when I turn the driveshaft and u-joints. I just took the outdrive off my boat because I was looking to see where I had a gear oil leak. There was gear oil in my bellow.
Thanks for watching, great question. We take it you have separated the upper from the lower and are referring to the inner driveshaft that is secured to lower unit through water pump and below. There will be a very slight amount of play as you pull shaft up and push shaft down however to much play is not good. 1/4” is on the absolute high end of play and any more that that, it can cause damage to seals and gears. Are you planning on replacing seals?
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders no I wasn't planning on replacing the seals. But didn't know if that was the cause of gear oil getting into the bellow. But no I haven't taken the outdrive apart. I was just holding the driveshaft that attaches to the u-joints and goes to the motor.
@@sean5102 Thanks for the reply, you’re referring to the Yoke Shaft that feeds through the bellow/hull and into the engine coupler. There should be no play with that shaft. Your outer retainer nut may have loosened slightly and allowed the 1/4” play which in return, beat up your seals…hopefully no more that that… Yoke Shaft assembly will need to be pulled out and seals replaced as well as a very closed and detailed inspection of the gears and bearings. 😎👍
Thanks for watching & welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. We really appreciate you sharing this. The lower unit rebuild series has been completed & will be coming this month. We are happy to hear the video helped & hope that you stay tuned for our upcoming lower unit videos. Hope all is well. 😎👍
I thought the old style bearing was not rolling torque and " normal" torque to 70 ft/lb...you mention the old style is 5/6 inch pounds? What am I missing?
Thanks for watching John, we are here to help! 😎👍 We recommend following your exact service manual for your outdrive. If your manual states to torque the original bearing and gear set to 70ft lbs, we strongly recommend doing that as it ensures you’re following the engineers instructions. However if you’re transitioning to the new designed gear and bearing, you will follow the rolling torque instructions set forth by your manual. Below is a link to our video explaining in more detail the difference between the two. ua-cam.com/video/KI41DFX3tq0/v-deo.html Please keep us posted on your project and hey if you’re into crypto, join our DIY ecosystem. toolboxtoken.com Reach out to us any time! 🧰
We appreciate that, thank you. Does your service manual share any helpful info on the seal and design of it? If it’s the exact same design on each side, it’s likely that it can be installed as you mentioned however double checking the service manual is key!
Good morning, just poured a cup of coffee and am sitting down to answer any and all questions for the DIY community. Gear lash is best to be followed using your exact serial number service manual. We didn’t want to give any misleading information. Let us know if you have any questions and hey if you’re into crypto trading, join our DIY ecosystem and become part of an exclusive group of DIYers. toolboxtoken.com Reach out to us any time! 🧰
Because he never set up the meshing of the two gears by adjusting the shims, if he had it would have provided correct back last, no different to a vehicle differential.
Good morning, thanks for watching. We set aside a few days for the project however once we began, it flowed pretty quickly finishing ahead of schedule. Most important thing is having the proper tools for the project and all the replacement parts ready to go. Tools for project cost around $500.00
@@leekirby9223 That would be cool but unfortunately we are booked out over a year with DIY repair videos to film. Our list is LONG… We will always be here to help answer questions. 😎👍
Thanks for watching, we show all links working properly now. Thank you for bringing this to our attention. The Water Pocket Cover link needed to be updated, you Rock! If interested in purchasing this product, visit our Amazon affiliate link below. I earn from qualifying purchases. amzn.to/3UWkIDO 😎👍🧰
My alpha one gen 2 drive does not look like this inside - there are no bolts holding the water tube assembly... is drive that you are working on a Bravo or an Alpha 1 Gen 1 by any chance? thanks
Thanks for watching & welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. This exact model is an Alpha 1 Gen 1. Keep us posted on your project & any questions you may have. Us DIYers need to stick together!!! 😎👍
Good morning, we are drinking our morning coffee & answering all questions for the DIY community. We appreciate you watching & sharing this, you’re spot on, a superhero indeed. Im so lucky!!! 😁 Let us know if you have any questions, we DIYers need to stick together!!!
I had my gears break, went to the local marine and they said the vertice shaft comes with everything separate? (Gear, bearing,) and I have to pull the old bearing and gear off the shaft. I saw yours came already assembled on the shaft? Where can I order that
Thanks for watching & welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. Ours did come in separate parts, we took all the parts to our local marina & they pressed everything together to factory specs. Did your local marina mention that they would put together the new parts if you ordered them from them?
This was by no means a total rebuild..This is nothing but a parts replacement..There was no mention of the lengthy shimming process that's necessary in a total rebuild.
Thanks for watching & sharing this. The shimming process is important indeed. We followed our exact serial # service manual to ensure it was to specs. Hope all is well with you and your family Bob, thanks again for watching & sharing your thoughts.
Thanks for watching & yes, this is an outdrive. We appreciate you sharing your thoughts, let us know if you have any questions. Us DIYers need to stick together!!! 😎👍
Just goes to prove that he really is a diy'er, and smart enough to have a shop press the bearings and gear on the shaft instead of buying a $500 press to do it with.
@@clacker54 Thanks for watching, having the shop do it was definitely the smart approach. The shop ensures the parts are properly pressed to factory specs which is extremely important!!! 😎👍
This is NOT "EVERYTHING". In the video you skip over the shift shaft oil seal.. Does yours not come with one? Mine did, and that was the main reason I was watching this video.
Deep dive into new Yoke shaft design with 3rd machine cut
ua-cam.com/video/GnnPCrVgx0k/v-deo.html
If interested in purchasing these products, visit our Amazon Affiliate links below, I earn from qualifying purchases.
1. GLM oil seal kit (87500)
amzn.to/3njQWrT
2. Gasket compound sealant (1525607)
amzn.to/3DcrJ8c
3. Old seal punch tool (89-101-19)
4. Water pocket cover
amzn.to/3UWkIDO
5. Loctite 680
amzn.to/3wG0VKW
6. Spanner wrench
amzn.to/31GwUiD
7. Inch pound torque wrench
amzn.to/3G1aDLl
Thanks!
I cannot thank you enough for all these videos. I have watched these over and over. Currently rebuilding a 1988 Alpha One, Gen 1 myself. Never had one before only outboards. I will say you make it look easy! Your videos go way faster than my actual work! Thank you for your time, trouble and efforts and attention to details.
Thank you, we are honored to read this. Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated.
The 1988 Alpha one is darn near the same. That’s awesome you’re making it a DIY project.
We will always be here to help answer questions. Reach out any time.
😁👍🧰
The quality and attention to detail is excellent. Keep 'em coming. Thank you.
Hey what’s up, you are very welcome. Thanks for watching & sharing this!
We are less than a week away from releasing our full lower unit rebuild series.
We believe it will be helpful to many. Looking forward to hearing back from you on your thoughts & critiques.
Hope all is well & we will definitely keep ‘em coming!!!
😎👍
Thank you, my brother, for this distinguished work. I salute you, my brother❤❤❤❤❤
You are welcome 👍
I'm only 10min in and you are doing a GREAT JOB!! 👍
Thank you, means a lot to us to read your comment. Hopefully your project is going well.
Let us know if you have any questions and hey if you’re into crypto trading, join our DIY ecosystem and become part of an exclusive group of DIYers.
toolboxtoken.com
Reach out to us any time! 🧰
do you happen to have a full parts list or a kit number? My upper gears are totally eaten and I will need to do a complete rebuild.
Putting oil on the seal when installing is a far better idea than water.
Did you seriously protect your vice from the screw driver with a paper towel?
Good morning, we are drinking our morning coffee answering any and all questions for the DIY community.
Maybe…😁
Let us know if you have any questions and hey if you’re into crypto trading, check out our newly launched DIY ecosystem.
Toolboxtoken.com
Reach out to us any time! 🧰
Can you do a series of videos like this for the gen 1 lower unit?
This was amazing. Thanks for posting.
What’s up Brian, thanks for reaching out to us. Series has already been filmed, edited, & in the que for upload.
Forecasting the lower unit rebuild videos to be uploaded in a few weeks.
😎👍
Very thorough, and explanation.
We are honored to read this, thank you.
😁👍🧰
Hello, i was wondering why you didn't do all the shimming procedure with shimming tools. I'm going to change the 2 roller bearings and i need to know more about.
Thanks for watching, shimming will differ depending on your serial number and you will want to follow your exact service manual as opposed to ours.
Keep us posted on your DIY project.
That's poop, you shim accordingly to get a good meshing mark, no one setting is going to provide you with the correct mesh which is why you adjust the Sims accordingly, you done have the experience!
Thank you for such a great video!!
Good morning, you are very welcome. We really enjoyed filming this rebuild. We have also filmed a full series on the lower unit rebuild. (PART 1) link is below.
ua-cam.com/video/ehTA4BRH4t8/v-deo.html
Keep us posted on your project, welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. Many more helpful videos to come!!!!
😎👍
Fantastic video!
@@iisreset
Thank you. 😁👍🧰
Mike could you please give the part no. for the preload washer that you do not use again on the upper unit gear drive? thanks so much,
Thanks for watching, we can hopefully help. If interested in purchasing this product, visit our Amazon affiliate link below. I from qualifying purchases.
Nut: amzn.to/3VrfdNs
Washer: amzn.to/4aRpAyw
👍🧰
Thanks for the video, I had one question, how do you know when the retainer ring nut is tightened correctly, is it just a case of tightening until it feels tight at the end of it's travel? I've seen some discussion of that nut being torqued down.
@@fiveowaf454
Thanks for watching. Are you installing standard gear and bearing kit or the newly designed press-fit kit?
The standard will be a specific torque value, while the press-fit will be tightened using rolling resistance.
🧰
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Ill be reinstalling the original gears, the ring nut got damaged when one of the u joints came apart. I understand the rolling resistance part of the process, just not how tight the ring tightened with the special tool needs to be, somewhere I thought I'd read a huge figure like 200 ft lbs, but you just seemed to tighten it with the special wrench, not stating a torque.
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders According to the Bravo 3 manual I recently got access to, the bearing retaining ring nut should be tightened to 200ftlb using a torque wrench on the special tool itself, and using a conversion chart to calculate the actual torque setting for the torque wrench, given the wrench is inserted into the special tool in the 1/2" square in the handle, not working directly on the ring nut. That's a lot of torque which also raises the question as to how the one you removed, came loose with just a few blows with a rubber hammer.
@@fiveowaf454
Ok, you’re referring to the large retainer ring. That is different than the info we shared in previous comment… we thought you were referring to the pinion gear nut.
We highly recommend following your serial number Bravo service manual and if it states 200ft-lb, it’s important to apply that torque to alleviate any damage or premature failure.
😎👍🧰
@@fiveowaf454
Thanks for the reply. 200ft-lb is on the higher end torque-wise. Most alpha outdrives will call for a lower torque value around 150-180ft-lb however it’s very important to get your exact value for your exact serial number outdrive from service manual.
We installed the newly designed Press-fit gear and bearing kit and used the new rolling resistance procedure set forth by Mercruiser for the new kit.
Is it possible to press that upper carrier bushing on the vertical shaft, at home?
Thanks for watching, maybe…🤔
Good video but I am confused on something. You say the pre-load is supposed to be 6-8 inch-lbs. my Mercruiser manual (18-03200) on section 10-18 states to "tighten the locking nut to a torque value of 85 ft-lbs." Which one is it? 6-8 inch-lbs or 85 ft-lbs? There's a huge difference between those 2 values for setting a pre-load. Also, your micrometer is being measured in nM, not inch lbs. I'm hoping you drive doesn't fail due to improper torque settings.
Thanks for watching, 85ft-lbs will be for the standard bearing kit while the new (Press-fit) bearing kit will be set using rolling resistance.
Most important thing is to continue following your exact service manual. Hope this helps.
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders Thanks. I contacted mercruiser regarding it also because I was confused. They told me whether it was a pressed gear or factory gear the rolling resistance should be 6-10 inch lbs! When installing back into the sterndrive and tightening the castle nut back on, The castle nut should be torqued to 200 ft lbs, however there is a chart to use when attaching your torque wrench to the castle nut wrench, you have to measure from center of torque wrench socket drive to the center of handle and look up on the chart. Different lengths have different values. My torque wrench is 15 inches, so torque on castle nut will be 111 Ft lbs when connecting torque wrench to the castle nut wrench.
@@TheCommo81
Thanks for sharing, a true DIYer. We love it! Rebuilding it will put you in a great mood.
hey @DIYwithMichaelBorders should there be play in and out. Like I can push the driveshaft against the gears and pull it out about 1/4 in when I turn the driveshaft and u-joints. I just took the outdrive off my boat because I was looking to see where I had a gear oil leak. There was gear oil in my bellow.
Thanks for watching, great question. We take it you have separated the upper from the lower and are referring to the inner driveshaft that is secured to lower unit through water pump and below.
There will be a very slight amount of play as you pull shaft up and push shaft down however to much play is not good.
1/4” is on the absolute high end of play and any more that that, it can cause damage to seals and gears.
Are you planning on replacing seals?
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders no I wasn't planning on replacing the seals. But didn't know if that was the cause of gear oil getting into the bellow. But no I haven't taken the outdrive apart. I was just holding the driveshaft that attaches to the u-joints and goes to the motor.
@@sean5102
Thanks for the reply, you’re referring to the Yoke Shaft that feeds through the bellow/hull and into the engine coupler.
There should be no play with that shaft. Your outer retainer nut may have loosened slightly and allowed the 1/4” play which in return, beat up your seals…hopefully no more that that…
Yoke Shaft assembly will need to be pulled out and seals replaced as well as a very closed and detailed inspection of the gears and bearings.
😎👍
Great video and explanation, congratulations on a great job done.
I'm waiting on your lower unit rebuild. Is it coming?
Thanks for watching & welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. We really appreciate you sharing this.
The lower unit rebuild series has been completed & will be coming this month. We are happy to hear the video helped & hope that you stay tuned for our upcoming lower unit videos.
Hope all is well. 😎👍
I thought the old style bearing was not rolling torque and " normal" torque to 70 ft/lb...you mention the old style is 5/6 inch pounds? What am I missing?
Thanks for watching John, we are here to help! 😎👍
We recommend following your exact service manual for your outdrive.
If your manual states to torque the original bearing and gear set to 70ft lbs, we strongly recommend doing that as it ensures you’re following the engineers instructions.
However if you’re transitioning to the new designed gear and bearing, you will follow the rolling torque instructions set forth by your manual.
Below is a link to our video explaining in more detail the difference between the two.
ua-cam.com/video/KI41DFX3tq0/v-deo.html
Please keep us posted on your project and hey if you’re into crypto, join our DIY ecosystem.
toolboxtoken.com
Reach out to us any time! 🧰
Question, is the upper seal replacement the same on a gen 2 bar the melted water pipe housing. in which I don't have on the gen ??
Good morning ☕️ you will find it to be similar indeed. You will also have the additional oil line on the gen 2.
Hi Michael, great videos it appears my lower seal has identical sides? Spring on both sides, so apparently you can install either side..
We appreciate that, thank you. Does your service manual share any helpful info on the seal and design of it?
If it’s the exact same design on each side, it’s likely that it can be installed as you mentioned however double checking the service manual is key!
Why did you not check gear lash?
Good morning, just poured a cup of coffee and am sitting down to answer any and all questions for the DIY community.
Gear lash is best to be followed using your exact serial number service manual. We didn’t want to give any misleading information.
Let us know if you have any questions and hey if you’re into crypto trading, join our DIY ecosystem and become part of an exclusive group of DIYers.
toolboxtoken.com
Reach out to us any time! 🧰
Because he never set up the meshing of the two gears by adjusting the shims, if he had it would have provided correct back last, no different to a vehicle differential.
How much cost labor and the parts to rebuild em?
Good morning, thanks for watching. We set aside a few days for the project however once we began, it flowed pretty quickly finishing ahead of schedule.
Most important thing is having the proper tools for the project and all the replacement parts ready to go.
Tools for project cost around $500.00
@@DIYwithMichaelBorderscan you rebuild it for me?
@@leekirby9223
That would be cool but unfortunately we are booked out over a year with DIY repair videos to film. Our list is LONG…
We will always be here to help answer questions.
😎👍
Really nice detail 👍😁
Dave, thanks for watching & sharing this. Let us know if you have any questions. 👍
OMG if you could do one with Bravos...Good work here.
Thanks for watching & we really appreciate that. There are a few differences when it comes to the Bravos. Keep us posted on your DIY project.
😎👍
Can you fix the link on Amazon please I need to get the tools
Thanks for watching, we show all links working properly now. Thank you for bringing this to our attention.
The Water Pocket Cover link needed to be updated, you Rock! If interested in purchasing this product, visit our Amazon affiliate link below. I earn from qualifying purchases.
amzn.to/3UWkIDO
😎👍🧰
My alpha one gen 2 drive does not look like this inside - there are no bolts holding the water tube assembly...
is drive that you are working on a Bravo or an Alpha 1 Gen 1 by any chance? thanks
Thanks for watching & welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. This exact model is an Alpha 1 Gen 1.
Keep us posted on your project & any questions you may have. Us DIYers need to stick together!!! 😎👍
How much different is this from the gen 2? I need to rebuild my upper gear set I believe… and I have a gen 2
Dude you have a superhero for a wife. To "let"you do that inside the house.
Good morning, we are drinking our morning coffee & answering all questions for the DIY community.
We appreciate you watching & sharing this, you’re spot on, a superhero indeed. Im so lucky!!! 😁
Let us know if you have any questions, we DIYers need to stick together!!!
I need to know all about upper vertical bearing. How to remove and install. This is not a FULL rebuild
Let us know if you have any specific questions, all parts of our vertical gear are new.
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders I am going to have to cut mine off and reuse the race. Maybe I should do a video because would be the only one
@@gdwmnlvr850
Thanks for the update, if you do, we would definitely watch it to support your channel. 😎👍
Took cap off. Battery Dremel tool for bearing. Carbide blade. O'Reilly puller for race. Easy peasy. No press needed.
Didn't take any of the outdrive apart. Cap off only.
Need to take "EVERYTHING" if you didn't do upper cap bearing
I had my gears break, went to the local marine and they said the vertice shaft comes with everything separate? (Gear, bearing,) and I have to pull the old bearing and gear off the shaft. I saw yours came already assembled on the shaft? Where can I order that
Thanks for watching & welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. Ours did come in separate parts, we took all the parts to our local marina & they pressed everything together to factory specs.
Did your local marina mention that they would put together the new parts if you ordered them from them?
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders that's not you doing a FULL rebuild then is it
@@gdwmnlvr850
We don’t have the press.
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders you sure did put "EVERYTHING" in your title and it is not
@@gdwmnlvr850
Thanks for the reply, everything meaning all (PARTS)...PART 1 - PART 5.
This was by no means a total rebuild..This is nothing but a parts replacement..There was no mention of the lengthy shimming process that's necessary in a total rebuild.
Thanks for watching & sharing this. The shimming process is important indeed. We followed our exact serial # service manual to ensure it was to specs.
Hope all is well with you and your family Bob, thanks again for watching & sharing your thoughts.
By the way, the “engine” is on the other side of the transom. Words matter.
Thanks for watching & yes, this is an outdrive. We appreciate you sharing your thoughts, let us know if you have any questions.
Us DIYers need to stick together!!!
😎👍
Just goes to prove that he really is a diy'er, and smart enough to have a shop press the bearings and gear on the shaft instead of buying a $500 press to do it with.
@@clacker54
Thanks for watching, having the shop do it was definitely the smart approach. The shop ensures the parts are properly pressed to factory specs which is extremely important!!!
😎👍
This is NOT "EVERYTHING".
In the video you skip over the shift shaft oil seal.. Does yours not come with one? Mine did, and that was the main reason I was watching this video.