Thanks for detailed video, I was watching one before this from Dell Boys garage which mentioned that the oil seal must go in one way only, I never knew this before, having done a fair few before with no leaks apart from my Gixxer when they all leaked, I thought it was just a batch that had gone a bit past their shelf life. The sliding bush was well gunked up, never thought of looking at that part before.👍🏻 There is a fair gouge on the Caliper pin, the part that's attached to the mounting bracket, no idea how that got damaged, and it seems to be not replaceable.
Peter Wassler thanks for that and glad it helped. Del does great videos and since he is a mate I try not to duplicate his work. You should be able to get the parts but maybe you'll need another caliper from a breakers.
I usually polish the guide pins with t cut and anneal the copper banjo washers on a gas ring. if there are grooves on old banjo washers best to replace or you can have a go on oil stone !
if you fit new pads youll gain an extra couple of mm sucurity before the scratch..although it wasnt leaking anyway.. when i clean the piston i stick something between the pads so the piston dont pop out...having said all that i replaced all the seals and polished the pistons on mine anyhow as a matter of course...
+springy 2112 I do agree that replacing the seals is a matter of good policy. I'm still contemplating doing the same with with the front, and I may do when I send back the dust seal for the back. New pads would give more security - I'm more concerned what might happen when the pads wear down - but as you say, it wasn't leaking anyway. Still wonder how it ever got a scratch like that and I'm suspicious it was like it from new.
Yeah Dave normally the mashed bit is where some donkey pulls the piston out with grips...but that scratch of yours is in the strangest place but i rekon the pads would have to be on the metal for that to hit the seal...
Heat, lubrication, corrosion removal and time. Sometimes they just need to be cut and taken out in pieces and then replaced. Good luck as this is always a pain. Often the pins can be replaced with less rust prone metals.
I have some problems getting the caliper off the guide pin. Tried to rotate it up, like you did, and i would not more more then 2-3 cm. And its completly stuck, and would not come off. I have set it aside now with some rust spray, and wait a few days and see. But it looks like its totaly rusted up and corroded inside. Any tips? or maybe i have to get a new one / used one? Thanks again for the video.
Just to be clear, are you trying to pull the caliper off the disc with the brake pads still in - that is how I read your comment, but I could be wrong as it is what I show here. If the disc has wear on it then you will feel a lip at the edge, and the pads will be sitting in a groove that they have worn into the disc. This is where the wobble comes into play - you need to push the caliper back and forth to push the piston back into the caliper. This will retract the pads and allow enough room to get them over the lip on the disc. Rust however can be a real issue especially with pins. Have you tried the alternate method shown in this video, which should bypass this problem? ua-cam.com/video/gz_Smwclyqs/v-deo.html
@@MotoMirius I have removed the caliper from the bike. And got verything off easy, inkl brake pads. But the part that moves back and forward in the caliper when you press the brake lever is stuck. The one on the left ( picture in following link) would not slide out so i could get that part off. The one that passes thrue nr 6. That pin is stuck and would not move at all. images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/yamaha-xtz660-353kw-1993-3yf7-germany-233yf-332g2-hinterrad-bremssatel_big3IMG00998812_cfce.gif
OK, that's not so bad. Very common for pins to rust in place. I now replace them as a matter of course with the pads and with stainless or titanium pins if I can get them, otherwise if stock pins then as often as needed. When they seize in, it often requires brute force (heat, angle grinders, vices etc) to remove them. To remove the piston (part 4 in the parts diagram), this needs to be either pushed out (operate brake lever, use compressed air - be very careful and cover with a cloth because these will come out and bounce around at high speed with air and do injure people). Or, especially for the final removal, you can use a tool such as amzn.to/2V9tLmx (or pliers if you are replacing the piston) to pull it out (other tools are available such as blind bearing puller type kits)
@@MotoMirius ok, so carfully give it some heat on the outer caseing and try that, or angle grinder to just cut if of and see if i can pull the rest of the pin out of the caseing it should glide into. I will have a go at that. Piston isnt a problem (yet i think), compressed air worked nice on the front brake. But yes, i will try carefully heat the alu caseing and pin and see if that would do the trick.
At this point there is no real right answer - it's very situational and how drastic your actions are will depend on whether you can source replacement parts easily. Penetrant, heat and locking pliers can all help. Once you've exhausted the easy options then cutting and drilling out can help. Sometimes you can drill a small hole into the alloy case and drift the pin out - sometimes that would drill into the brake fluid passageways or structural parts, so you have to make some judgement calls, but don't be like me - exercise patience and leave the big hammer as a last resort 👍
Hi buddy. just pulled the rear caliper off my XT. Like your caliper, the sliding pin is corroded. But mine must be worse because I can't seperate the bracket from the caliper body. I might try and soak in WD40, that may help. Any idea's ? Great vids by the way.
Hiya. I'm now at the stage where I replace those pins as matter of course, preferably with stainless steel or similar - sometimes hard to track down but worth it, or just order in the OEM and replace regularly. You'll probably need to remove the calliper if you haven't already. Soaking is good - there are more effective things than WD40, but it may help. Heat usually helps but sometimes you need to cut them and pull the halves out individually.
People either break off bleed nipple or the guide pin is siezed, when the guide pin is siezed you are in deep do do. calipers on xt600's are sought after items, and new ones are mortgage payments so when they start dragging, start to worry. dt125r and older tenere calipers are the same and rare to find, especially unsiezed. however the piston, seal and dust seal rarely give problems in themselves and the pads wear fairly slowly so the siezing problem, shame you cant retro fit somthing more common like a blue spot there, if somebody has i havent heard of it. on a different note exhaust headers are deep do do aswell. shame, a reliable old bus otherwise, and good on ypor nees if they have a bit of arthritius aswell.
Great advice there John. Rear brakes all suffer these same issues, slow wear rates means that they don't get overhauled as often as they should and the heat and cooling cycles don't help at all. Keeping to the factory maintenance schedules helps a huge amount in avoiding all of these problems.
![YAMAHA DIVERSION XJ600S [1998] REAR BRAKE CALIPER STUCK. PROBLEM SOLVED 👨🔧---🏍](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rXI9Vu0jzOE/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for detailed video, I was watching one before this from Dell Boys garage which mentioned that the oil seal must go in one way only, I never knew this before, having done a fair few before with no leaks apart from my Gixxer when they all leaked, I thought it was just a batch that had gone a bit past their shelf life.
The sliding bush was well gunked up, never thought of looking at that part before.👍🏻 There is a fair gouge on the Caliper pin, the part that's attached to the mounting bracket, no idea how that got damaged, and it seems to be not replaceable.
Peter Wassler thanks for that and glad it helped. Del does great videos and since he is a mate I try not to duplicate his work. You should be able to get the parts but maybe you'll need another caliper from a breakers.
I usually polish the guide pins with t cut and anneal the copper banjo washers on a gas ring. if there are grooves on old banjo washers best to replace or you can have a go on oil stone !
Nicely old school!
if you fit new pads youll gain an extra couple of mm sucurity before the scratch..although it wasnt leaking anyway..
when i clean the piston i stick something between the pads so the piston dont pop out...having said all that i replaced all the seals and polished the pistons on mine anyhow as a matter of course...
+springy 2112 I do agree that replacing the seals is a matter of good policy. I'm still contemplating doing the same with with the front, and I may do when I send back the dust seal for the back.
New pads would give more security - I'm more concerned what might happen when the pads wear down - but as you say, it wasn't leaking anyway. Still wonder how it ever got a scratch like that and I'm suspicious it was like it from new.
Yeah Dave normally the mashed bit is where some donkey pulls the piston out with grips...but that scratch of yours is in the strangest place but i rekon the pads would have to be on the metal for that to hit the seal...
Thanks for the video how dit you get the corroded "piston"guide pin out... mine is stuck as hell
Heat, lubrication, corrosion removal and time. Sometimes they just need to be cut and taken out in pieces and then replaced. Good luck as this is always a pain. Often the pins can be replaced with less rust prone metals.
Thanks for the video! :)
Thanks, much appreciated and you are very welcome. Skäl. David
I have some problems getting the caliper off the guide pin. Tried to rotate it up, like you did, and i would not more more then 2-3 cm. And its completly stuck, and would not come off. I have set it aside now with some rust spray, and wait a few days and see. But it looks like its totaly rusted up and corroded inside. Any tips? or maybe i have to get a new one / used one? Thanks again for the video.
Just to be clear, are you trying to pull the caliper off the disc with the brake pads still in - that is how I read your comment, but I could be wrong as it is what I show here. If the disc has wear on it then you will feel a lip at the edge, and the pads will be sitting in a groove that they have worn into the disc. This is where the wobble comes into play - you need to push the caliper back and forth to push the piston back into the caliper. This will retract the pads and allow enough room to get them over the lip on the disc. Rust however can be a real issue especially with pins. Have you tried the alternate method shown in this video, which should bypass this problem? ua-cam.com/video/gz_Smwclyqs/v-deo.html
@@MotoMirius I have removed the caliper from the bike. And got verything off easy, inkl brake pads. But the part that moves back and forward in the caliper when you press the brake lever is stuck. The one on the left ( picture in following link) would not slide out so i could get that part off. The one that passes thrue nr 6. That pin is stuck and would not move at all. images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/yamaha-xtz660-353kw-1993-3yf7-germany-233yf-332g2-hinterrad-bremssatel_big3IMG00998812_cfce.gif
OK, that's not so bad. Very common for pins to rust in place. I now replace them as a matter of course with the pads and with stainless or titanium pins if I can get them, otherwise if stock pins then as often as needed. When they seize in, it often requires brute force (heat, angle grinders, vices etc) to remove them.
To remove the piston (part 4 in the parts diagram), this needs to be either pushed out (operate brake lever, use compressed air - be very careful and cover with a cloth because these will come out and bounce around at high speed with air and do injure people). Or, especially for the final removal, you can use a tool such as amzn.to/2V9tLmx (or pliers if you are replacing the piston) to pull it out (other tools are available such as blind bearing puller type kits)
@@MotoMirius ok, so carfully give it some heat on the outer caseing and try that, or angle grinder to just cut if of and see if i can pull the rest of the pin out of the caseing it should glide into. I will have a go at that. Piston isnt a problem (yet i think), compressed air worked nice on the front brake. But yes, i will try carefully heat the alu caseing and pin and see if that would do the trick.
At this point there is no real right answer - it's very situational and how drastic your actions are will depend on whether you can source replacement parts easily. Penetrant, heat and locking pliers can all help. Once you've exhausted the easy options then cutting and drilling out can help. Sometimes you can drill a small hole into the alloy case and drift the pin out - sometimes that would drill into the brake fluid passageways or structural parts, so you have to make some judgement calls, but don't be like me - exercise patience and leave the big hammer as a last resort 👍
Hi buddy. just pulled the rear caliper off my XT. Like your caliper, the sliding pin is corroded. But mine must be worse because I can't seperate the bracket from the caliper body. I might try and soak in WD40, that may help. Any idea's ? Great vids by the way.
Hiya. I'm now at the stage where I replace those pins as matter of course, preferably with stainless steel or similar - sometimes hard to track down but worth it, or just order in the OEM and replace regularly. You'll probably need to remove the calliper if you haven't already. Soaking is good - there are more effective things than WD40, but it may help. Heat usually helps but sometimes you need to cut them and pull the halves out individually.
People either break off bleed nipple or the guide pin is siezed, when the guide pin is siezed you are in deep do do.
calipers on xt600's are sought after items, and new ones are mortgage payments so when they start dragging, start to worry.
dt125r and older tenere calipers are the same and rare to find, especially unsiezed.
however the piston, seal and dust seal rarely give problems in themselves and the pads wear fairly slowly so the siezing problem,
shame you cant retro fit somthing more common like a blue spot there, if somebody has i havent heard of it.
on a different note exhaust headers are deep do do aswell.
shame, a reliable old bus otherwise, and good on ypor nees if they have a bit of arthritius aswell.
Great advice there John. Rear brakes all suffer these same issues, slow wear rates means that they don't get overhauled as often as they should and the heat and cooling cycles don't help at all. Keeping to the factory maintenance schedules helps a huge amount in avoiding all of these problems.