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Great 'to the point' video again from you guys. Really enjoy all the MC Garage vids. So many other UA-camrs spend more time on BS and playing to the camera with their effects and acting crap, cannot stand watching them. Your stuff is always factual, to the point and no nonsense. Hats off to you guys.
Been working on a 98 CBR 600 F3 and right when I get one thing fixed the next goes wrong. Just got carburetors rebuilt, finally got started and not first though second test ride the front brakes decided to clamp shut upon pulling up to consummate. Thank goodness for this video.
I know how you feel!! I pulled my dual sport out of storage after sitting for 3 years under a tarp, outside.. So far I've removed rust from tank, Rebuilt entire fuel system petcock carb fuel cap everything, Rebuilt forks, new wheels tires sprockets chain headlight grips seat recovered ignition switch replaced and now brakes!! I said I not buying another bike, I'm fixing what I have!! Way cheaper and it's very rewarding!!
I've been riding for 49 yrs. and I absolutely love this channel, because I think most motorcycles (IMHO) get only marginal care at best. That being said, I know you cover the ONE thing that everyone should know how to do to the used bike they have just bought.. EVERYTHING. Thanks for you amazingly easy to follow and very accurate instruction.
Phoenix Moore It took me yr`s to finally realize my suspension and braking should be main my concerns regarding maintenance and settings, I've tried to explain this to new riders to maybe they will learn a bit sooner than me.
Brilliant and straight to the point video ! I was scared to take the pistons out.(strong drag even after cleaning them on the calipers). Now I'm confident about it ! I will probably use the line to push them put as far as possible before disconnecting it. thank you for the top content!
Hey there is a very simple (and safe) way to get your pistons out using the right size socket and a ratchet. Rather than try to explain it here, just check out "Delboy's Garage: Tokico 6 pot caliper rebuild" video and fast forward to where he takes the pistons out.
Like he says in this video, on single piston calipers the compressed air works great and works a lot of the time on calipers with more pistons. Just sometimes you have a stubborn piston that won't budge even with air.
I just performed this periodic maintenance on my 2017 Kawasaki ZX-10RR. A few shared thoughts on my process: 1. I read the service manual several times for the corrext procedure, annotating torque specs, veeifying tools necessary, materials, supplies, etc. 2. I watch several UA-cam videos on the procedure. Save the best videos for reference. 3. Be vedy methodical in your process for removal, parts accountability, cleaning, reassembky, installation, and torque specs. Removal was the easy part, but I removed my calipers before I had all my brake caliper parts for reassembly. This was to ensure thorough cleaning. For cleaning, I set up a 3-Stage "station." Following a good toothbrush scrub down with soap and water, my first pan was for brake cleaner scrub. 30-60 seconds for my own procedure. Make sure you have thick nitrile gloves on. I sceubbed hard to rwmove brake dust with a toothbrush and blue dish scrungy pad. 30-60 seconds. Then I dunked it into my second pan of soapy water. Washed any residual brake cleaner off by hand and with a dust beush with 3 inch firm bristles. Last, I dunked in a pan of clean water. Massaged rhe entive brake caliper clean. Immediately upon removal, I used a MasterVac hot air blower and blew out any water. Got tge caliper 100% dey in all fluid chambers and body. Rwplacing tge fluid seals and duat seals on a mono block caliper sucks. But once you get the hang of it, it is easier. My most efficient means was to put my left index finger in behind the caliper to guide the seals in while my right hand fingers seated the seals in. Some I needed a pick tool to guide stubborn seals in. Once that was completed, I seated tge brake pads in. I had a hard time since I never did this. As I attempted to seat the pads down onto the spring, it kept sliding in on one side. So I used a 6mm hex key behind the brake pad to keep it from shifting in keeping it more in line as I seated the other side. Once the other side was seated into the grove, the hex key comes right out. Now, my big question is... what torque value are YOU using for the bleed valve? My seevice manual has to be incorrect. There is no way I can use 12 foot pounds on an 8mm hollow bleed valve. I will crush the bleeder. But that is what my service manual states. 12 foot pounds for the bleed valve. Banjo is 18 foot pounds. Caliper bolt 26 foot pounds. What should my bleed valve be?
Great video Ari but shouldn't you use new crush washers for the banjo bolts when you reassemble I don't know if you mentioned that but I always thought that you were supposed to use new ones ?
Thanks for sharing the MC garage series, it's very useful to us. But we don't have so many professional tools if we want to rebuild the motorcycle's brake calipers.
I didn;t know that the seals had an orinetation. kept on wondering why the piston kept ripping my seals when I was trying to push them back. New seals have been ordered thanks for he tip!
4:12 Not always true, my Kawasaki service manual says to lube the fluid seal (inner one) with PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease (a type of silicone grease). I think any high-temperature, waterproof brake grease will work. I was going to use Permatex Silicone Ceramic Brake Lubricant for my next rebuild.
Great video! I would love to know more about how the lip on the seal helps pull the pistons back into place after the pressure is off. I just powder coated and rebuilt the calipers on my street glide and I tell you the high-pressure seal looked the same no matter which way I flipped it.
Finally got my front brakes to work right by just a simple disassembly and cleaning, replaced lines with braided and bled. Smooooooootthhhhh as silk now instead of grabby.
Good video, just got a nearly 30 year old bike for my 30 year old self recently, and everything needs work. I tried to fit some replacement pads today and the pistons were absolutely unmovable in the caliper, I figure it's about time for a rebuild.
My brakes were dragging (1990 bike) so I just did the seals. Stressed hard about orientating the piston seal with seal lip on the inside, but couldn't really tell by looking at the seals. I even pulled out one good seal to flip it after I figured I had it the wrong way around. Anyway I completed the job, but still wondered if I had done it right. After a google, it turns out many, if not most, piston seals are simply square and have no raised lip. The wedge type seals are apparently easy to spot.
I have the opposite issue on the SV. Long lever travel due to high piston retraction. Rebuilding the calipers now, hoping that clean pistons and new seals will act better. PS, it is not air or a leak issue. the brake is firm and will do a stoppie on a dime. It just takes too much initial lever travel to bring the pads to the rotor.
@@randysavage1997 I'm replying 3 years late, but yes, my brakes did return to dragging after a short time. I had to replace the caliper pistons which then fixed everything.
@@VasyaIvanovichPupkin I'd be very surprised if the caliper seals were causing too much retraction? First I've heard of that being a problem. I know you mentioned air and leaks, but air still trapped somewhere in the system, faulty brake lines (expanding like a balloon somewhere) faulty master cylinder or maybe something wrong with ABS system (if you have ABS) would be my bet before caliper piston seals. Keep us posted if the caliper piston seals work.
@@SportbikerNZ Brake is firm once pads contact the rotors. Only excessive lever travel is observed. No other symptoms. (No ABS on the bike) Air and break lines would result in a squishy brake feel. Symptom is not present or at least is minimal (I do replace the fluid bi-annually so brake bleed was done several times now). Also air in the system or worn master cylinder seals would temporarily result in a higher bite point after pumping the lever. Symptom is not present at all. Also with worn master cylinder, it is possible to experience inconsistent bite point depending on the speed of application. A quick squeeze will result in a high bite point due to the sudden pressure increase expanding the seals in the master. Yet after partial release the lever may sink lower as the fluid is allowed to slip past the seals. This is also not present. However, visually inspecting, a gap can be seen between the pad an the rotor that is consistent with the dead travel on the lever. It closes and opens as the brake is applied and released. Same can be seen on the floating caliper body. Pushing pistons all the way in and pumping them back to the pads a few times (breaking stiction on the seals and allowing break fluid film to lubricate the surface), decreases the lever travel for a short period of time, presumably until the pad friction material wears off and seals stick to pistons again. I have just put it all back together with the new seals. With my "inconsistent" measurements using a digital baggage scale, I have conservatively recovered 12mm of lever travel at 11kg of force, and 13mm at 20kg of force. We shall see how long this will last, but the difference is very noticeable. I should point out that this is unlikely to happen with riders who chew through pads like kids through candy, where seals to not get to sit in one spot on a piston for too long. I mostly commute and use light breaking most of the time and I am sure these were factory seals on a 15 year old bike. I should probably write this up somewhere. I even half-ass recorded my troubleshooting process. But I am a lazy dickhead. )))
I didn't know Steve Rogers have a youtube channel about bike maintainance, good work Captain America! Just kidding, ahahahaha! I love your show Ari, but I rarely see maintainance videos for classic bikes and neo retro ones. Ex. Drum breaks, how to clean, how to replace, how to maintain, etc. From us in the classice groove of things, we would greatly appreciate to quality videos of it. Until then, cheers and ride safe! 😂😂
Hi there, nice work. I've been watching your videos for a long time. A very nice tool to remove the pistons if you don't got a brake piston remover, is an External 90 Circlip Plier. Attached from the inner side of the piston with no chance of damage.
After rebuilding my 05 gsxr 1000 brakes they definitely stopped dragging. Made a massive difference in braking. Just be sure to bleed them properly. Speed bleeders make bleeding much easier
Excellent video The only thing I would add, is when cleaning the calipers. Fill a container, like a food storage container (I use the cheap glassware you can get at a dollar store) with alcohol or WD40 or something to help clean them. Brake cleaner tends to evaporate a little fast for me.
Before going straight to a metal pick, try a wittled down popsicle stick or the end of a bent/hooked zip tie to try and get under the seal to lift it out. Much smaller chance of scratching the bore that way.
Important note, on my yamaha fj1200 the service manual says NOT to split the caliper. I don't know about other bikes but checking service information is important
I have a 2007cbr600 and my brake caliper pistons aren't retracting. Do you think rebuilding them will help? I got new brake lines and brand new brake fluid in it. Thanks in advance
Often I'm away for a few days a week and my bike is parked up outside as i don't have a garage. In the summer it's not a problem, but come the winter with the constant rain and cold my pistons are always ceasing up! It's a real pain! Is there an easy way to make sure they stay in good condition whilst away without having to remove them?
Just out of curiosity... Brembo do not provide any torque for the bolts holding the halves. It is even recommended to use new ones or is it only for cars? since pre torqued at factory to the elastic limit. What torque did you use?
Lubing brake seals with brake fluid alone can cause excessive lever travel because the pistons won’t be able to slide freely enough against the seal. It’s better to lube them with silicone or red rubber grease. Brembo monoblocks actually have a warning with their rebuild kits saying preparing the pressure seal with brake fluid can cause excess lever travel or dragging brake pads.
Great. I used the lube that came with my brake pistons from Brembo. I wishbthere was a definitive answer on what product is best for lube, longevity, and reliability. I don't like half-assing things.
I have niffan calipers. With Brembo Rotors. I really want to upgrade from 2 pistons up front to 4 pistons up front. As well as 1 piston in the rear to 2 pistons. What Brembo Calipers would I need for my 2006 Yamaha FZ6 Naked?..
May sound like a complete rookie question here(first time doing a rebuild) when it comes to bleeding the brakes will i have to reset the piston/pads before centering the caliper?
Haha, same cheap ass pliers i got ! Good job, Sr. ! Centering the caliper on the rotor it's a nice detail but not a MUST. The nature of the caliper/rotor arrangement will put those pistons where they need/want to be. What should never be forgotten it's pump your brakes to check your work and make sure you can stop when you set out for a test ride. P.S: Nice SuMo KaTooM.
My cylinder is a bit rusted and get stuck from time to time. Would it be a good idea put some white lithium grease after removing rust to make the cylinder movement easy ?
awesome vid!!! could you do a vid on how batteries loose charge over time how to diagnose the problem and how to fix it? (like while sitting in the garage for a week and the battery is completely dead.)
Hi MCG I have a Bajaj Pulsar 220 with bybre single piston rear caliper . It gets jammed and i have to cool it with water . I replaced the o rings once, but does not seem to solve the problem . Should I try replacing the o ring again or the bybre caliper set..?
Another great video! Thanks for all the tips. I am particularly curious if you have recommendations for or want to make a video on fuel lines, sizing concerns, how to pick replacements for them, clear lines for flow visibility, adding in-line fuel filters, issues with flow due to restrictions in the line. I did not see a video in the playlist so I thought it pertinent to ask now. Thanks Ari!
Hi Scott, we don't have a vid that addresses that stuff, but you don't want to cheap or out take shortcuts with fuel line. Buy quality fuel-resistant stuff (not hardware store vinyl) and use proper hose or crimp clamps on the connectors. I like braided translucent line like you can get from Motion Pro or Helix Racing. Both companies offer ethanol-resistant line that'll work with today's fuels. Motion Pro also has great crimping pliers and quick-release fuel fittings. I use them on all of my racebikes to make tank/carb removal faster.
What's going on if I have put everything back on, nothing comes out when I try to bleed the brakes, and pumping the brake lever plenty does nothing after adding fluid to the reservoir? Heaps of brake fluid leaked out when I took my brakes apart to clean and replace pads. I know it needs more but nothing seems to be getting sucked in from the reservoir.
thanks for the tips! I gotta say, I would personally never use steel wool for this, as the grit tends to hide in tight places. You seem very knowledgable, this is just me being picky.
Quick question. Can you use brake cleaner directly on the pads themselves (double H sintered)? I blew a fork seal a while ago and before i had it fixed I'm thinking maybe some fork oil got on the disks because my brakes are suddenly not performing. Figured I'd do a thorough clean of everything but I also figured I'd ask someone before spraying down my pads just in case
You can put it on the pads. But if you got a lot of oil on the pads. They need to be replaced. Brake pads are very porous. You'll never able to get all the contamination (oil) out of all the nooks and crannies. I know it sucks.
Hey Ari, how do you clean fluid filters? My bike is giving me some issues and I am going to see if cleaning the fuel filter helps but it would be nice to have a how-to video from you guys
coming from 10 plus years of jet engine maintenance, you can lube parts, o-rings, and seals with whatever fluid that they go with respectively. It is the best way to lube things. that was taught to me by guys with 25 plus years
I really want to do this on my bike as there is some rust on the pistons and I noticed some uneven pad wear. Unfortunately my bike uses four piston opposing calipers which can't be split! Is the best way to get the pistons out just pumping them out while the system is still all together? Was thinking I could put something thick between the pistons so they all hit it, then put something thinner, then thinner etc until they are all most of the way out. Otherwise I'm at a total loss. Bent nose pliers with a rag maybe?
The technique you describe it a good one. Brembo also suggests clamping all but one piston down and then pressing the unsecured piston out with compressed air. Motion Pro also sells a slim little piston-removal tool that should do the trick. We wanted to include it in this vid but the order didn't arrive in time.
I understand that this is the wrong video to post this comment, I love how you explain how things work on these 2 wheel machines. But I was wondering if you can make a video on advantages and disadvantages between link-less and linkage rear suspension. I have not seen any video covering it. Unless I was not looking very hard in UA-cam.
This isn't the wrong place to post that question-we end every video with a call for questions. That's how we get ideas for future vids! I'll add your suggestion to the list. Thanks.
Do not use air, pistons are not to be "fired" anywhere. Soak or drain old fluid out of reservoir and fill with fresh fluid and refit the lid. Undo the banjo and do it back up finger tight. Remove the caliper and jack the piston out with hydraulic pressure from the brake lever in a controlled manner over a plastic catch tray, checking as you go to make sure the reservoir is not empty. Ensuring the reservoir cap is on while doing it or you risk fluid coming back out of it in the bike as you pump it. When fluid escapes out the side of the piston you can remove it the rest of the way with fingers. Once the piston is out undo the banjo and store the hose end to stop it draining. When it goes back on the system has fresh fluid in it and no old fluid will enter the clean caliper.
Anyone can do what they like to their own calipers, but for mechanics working on other vehicles, they don't own the calipers to be taking risks damaging one. If some folks want to risk it that up to them but using hydraulic pressure to remove them will never damage the piston or injure anyone, it will also remove old fluid that can be displaced with new fluid in the same process. And doesn't require a compressor so do it, so it makes no sense to use air. If people like the bang sound of a piston shooting out then by all means go for it.
I have a transalp, it doesnt have the best brake setup. Two piston single rotor up front. Will swapping to steel braided brake line have a noticeable effect? Might as well do it all at once
Martin Fisker steel brakeline doesn't expand likerubber brake line does, so you'll probably have a bit more stopping power when you really squeeze your lever.
Bart RD50MX Its not that i really need more power, i just want a more firm feeling and more feedback. I know, in theory, steel lines would do just that. I just need to know if it makes a noticeable difference from someone who has tried both
I swapped out my OEM lines for braided SS on my MT-01 and I didn't notice much of a difference in use. The SS braiding is just for mechanical exterior protection and it also does not need replacement every 5 years like OEM (plus you can get nice colours!). Pressure is maintained by the same tough inner lining regardless of exterior material. This is my understanding and I have heard this from a guy involved with bike racing teams and a car engineer who rides. SS is just a more resilient protective coating.
Love your videos Ari! Can I seriously get you some boxes of gloves? I know you love working on bikes but many fluid are carcinogenic Since we are on brake mind going over the drum brakes too?
Great idea well done 👍 your videos have safe a lot and make me understand my bike. I have watch all most your videos 👏👏👏, pls I will like you to make video (how to service throttle body) because I have check almost your videos the similar one is how to service carburetor. Thanks
Thanks for watching. One of the great things about EFI is that there isn't much needed in the way of regular service. Make sure they butterflies are synched (if you have a multi-cylinder engine) and that's about it. There are things that can go wrong with EFI, like fuel-pump failure, TPS issues, or clogged injectors, but those issues are rare. Regardless, I'll add it to the list. Thanks for the suggestion.
Can you please do a video about washing a bike ? Does water damage the bike with future corrosion? Does a cleaning foam spray is better? Thanks a lot guys 🤙🏼🍺
Next level MC Garage! Always good to see maintenance guides, thanks for making these
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MC garage series, the only videos on UA-cam I always hit that like button on!
and with 100% support
no garage is complete without the 80 flippin cans of brake cleaner in the background lol. Great job
sponsored maybe?
Came here to find out what the correct seal orientation was. Your video answered my question. Thank you for an intelligent, no BS video.
Great 'to the point' video again from you guys. Really enjoy all the MC Garage vids. So many other UA-camrs spend more time on BS and playing to the camera with their effects and acting crap, cannot stand watching them. Your stuff is always factual, to the point and no nonsense. Hats off to you guys.
Been working on a 98 CBR 600 F3 and right when I get one thing fixed the next goes wrong. Just got carburetors rebuilt, finally got started and not first though second test ride the front brakes decided to clamp shut upon pulling up to consummate. Thank goodness for this video.
I know how you feel!! I pulled my dual sport out of storage after sitting for 3 years under a tarp, outside.. So far I've removed rust from tank, Rebuilt entire fuel system petcock carb fuel cap everything, Rebuilt forks, new wheels tires sprockets chain headlight grips seat recovered ignition switch replaced and now brakes!! I said I not buying another bike, I'm fixing what I have!! Way cheaper and it's very rewarding!!
I've been riding for 49 yrs. and I absolutely love this channel, because I think most motorcycles (IMHO) get only marginal care at best. That being said, I know you cover the ONE thing that everyone should know how to do to the used bike they have just bought.. EVERYTHING. Thanks for you amazingly easy to follow and very accurate instruction.
Phoenix Moore It took me yr`s to finally realize my suspension and braking should be main my concerns regarding maintenance and settings, I've tried to explain this to new riders to maybe they will learn a bit sooner than me.
Very concise video with super clear instructions !!! 10/10
Brilliant and straight to the point video ! I was scared to take the pistons out.(strong drag even after cleaning them on the calipers). Now I'm confident about it ! I will probably use the line to push them put as far as possible before disconnecting it.
thank you for the top content!
Hey there is a very simple (and safe) way to get your pistons out using the right size socket and a ratchet. Rather than try to explain it here, just check out "Delboy's Garage: Tokico 6 pot caliper rebuild" video and fast forward to where he takes the pistons out.
Like he says in this video, on single piston calipers the compressed air works great and works a lot of the time on calipers with more pistons. Just sometimes you have a stubborn piston that won't budge even with air.
I just performed this periodic maintenance on my 2017 Kawasaki ZX-10RR. A few shared thoughts on my process:
1. I read the service manual several times for the corrext procedure, annotating torque specs, veeifying tools necessary, materials, supplies, etc.
2. I watch several UA-cam videos on the procedure. Save the best videos for reference.
3. Be vedy methodical in your process for removal, parts accountability, cleaning, reassembky, installation, and torque specs.
Removal was the easy part, but I removed my calipers before I had all my brake caliper parts for reassembly. This was to ensure thorough cleaning. For cleaning, I set up a 3-Stage "station." Following a good toothbrush scrub down with soap and water, my first pan was for brake cleaner scrub. 30-60 seconds for my own procedure. Make sure you have thick nitrile gloves on. I sceubbed hard to rwmove brake dust with a toothbrush and blue dish scrungy pad. 30-60 seconds. Then I dunked it into my second pan of soapy water. Washed any residual brake cleaner off by hand and with a dust beush with 3 inch firm bristles. Last, I dunked in a pan of clean water. Massaged rhe entive brake caliper clean. Immediately upon removal, I used a MasterVac hot air blower and blew out any water. Got tge caliper 100% dey in all fluid chambers and body. Rwplacing tge fluid seals and duat seals on a mono block caliper sucks. But once you get the hang of it, it is easier. My most efficient means was to put my left index finger in behind the caliper to guide the seals in while my right hand fingers seated the seals in. Some I needed a pick tool to guide stubborn seals in. Once that was completed, I seated tge brake pads in. I had a hard time since I never did this. As I attempted to seat the pads down onto the spring, it kept sliding in on one side. So I used a 6mm hex key behind the brake pad to keep it from shifting in keeping it more in line as I seated the other side. Once the other side was seated into the grove, the hex key comes right out. Now, my big question is... what torque value are YOU using for the bleed valve? My seevice manual has to be incorrect. There is no way I can use 12 foot pounds on an 8mm hollow bleed valve. I will crush the bleeder. But that is what my service manual states. 12 foot pounds for the bleed valve. Banjo is 18 foot pounds. Caliper bolt 26 foot pounds. What should my bleed valve be?
Your MC Garage how to videos are the best on the internet. Hands down. Another great job.
This is precisely what I needed to know.
Very clear and straight forward.
Thank you for putting in the time to share your knowledge.
Always love MC Garage series, AH is the best host on the interwebs!
Great video Ari but shouldn't you use new crush washers for the banjo bolts when you reassemble I don't know if you mentioned that but I always thought that you were supposed to use new ones ?
My service manual states to replace the banjo bolt washers if removed.
Mates rebuilding cals, this is an excellent video to help him whilst I'm away 👍 like customer support for bikes
Thanks for sharing the MC garage series, it's very useful to us. But we don't have so many professional tools if we want to rebuild the motorcycle's brake calipers.
These videos have saved me so much money. Feels really good to do your own work and have your bike ride like new again after. Thanx Guys!
I didn;t know that the seals had an orinetation.
kept on wondering why the piston kept ripping my seals when I was trying to push them back.
New seals have been ordered thanks for he tip!
Thanks for the video, some good tips that I haven't heard before.
You always make the steps clear and easy to follow. Thanks guys!!
3:40 that's why i have pressed the like button
That's a nice looking KTM 950 👌🏻
It's Zack Court's. He was kind enough to lend it to us for the demo.
Ari Henning please find some excuse to have the 950 in a future vid... mc commute hooligan edition??
great video, seems ive been doing it wrong with red rubber grease that comes with the seals.. much prefer this
4:12 Not always true, my Kawasaki service manual says to lube the fluid seal (inner one) with PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease (a type of silicone grease). I think any high-temperature, waterproof brake grease will work. I was going to use Permatex Silicone Ceramic Brake Lubricant for my next rebuild.
Great video! I would love to know more about how the lip on the seal helps pull the pistons back into place after the pressure is off. I just powder coated and rebuilt the calipers on my street glide and I tell you the high-pressure seal looked the same no matter which way I flipped it.
Finally got my front brakes to work right by just a simple disassembly and cleaning, replaced lines with braided and bled. Smooooooootthhhhh as silk now instead of grabby.
Good video, just got a nearly 30 year old bike for my 30 year old self recently, and everything needs work. I tried to fit some replacement pads today and the pistons were absolutely unmovable in the caliper, I figure it's about time for a rebuild.
My brakes were dragging (1990 bike) so I just did the seals. Stressed hard about orientating the piston seal with seal lip on the inside, but couldn't really tell by looking at the seals. I even pulled out one good seal to flip it after I figured I had it the wrong way around. Anyway I completed the job, but still wondered if I had done it right. After a google, it turns out many, if not most, piston seals are simply square and have no raised lip. The wedge type seals are apparently easy to spot.
Are your brakes still dragging? Cause mine are on my R6, did everything besides rebuilding my calipers. So maybe I should....
I have the opposite issue on the SV. Long lever travel due to high piston retraction. Rebuilding the calipers now, hoping that clean pistons and new seals will act better.
PS, it is not air or a leak issue. the brake is firm and will do a stoppie on a dime. It just takes too much initial lever travel to bring the pads to the rotor.
@@randysavage1997 I'm replying 3 years late, but yes, my brakes did return to dragging after a short time. I had to replace the caliper pistons which then fixed everything.
@@VasyaIvanovichPupkin I'd be very surprised if the caliper seals were causing too much retraction? First I've heard of that being a problem.
I know you mentioned air and leaks, but air still trapped somewhere in the system, faulty brake lines (expanding like a balloon somewhere) faulty master cylinder or maybe something wrong with ABS system (if you have ABS) would be my bet before caliper piston seals.
Keep us posted if the caliper piston seals work.
@@SportbikerNZ
Brake is firm once pads contact the rotors. Only excessive lever travel is observed. No other symptoms. (No ABS on the bike)
Air and break lines would result in a squishy brake feel. Symptom is not present or at least is minimal (I do replace the fluid bi-annually so brake bleed was done several times now). Also air in the system or worn master cylinder seals would temporarily result in a higher bite point after pumping the lever. Symptom is not present at all. Also with worn master cylinder, it is possible to experience inconsistent bite point depending on the speed of application. A quick squeeze will result in a high bite point due to the sudden pressure increase expanding the seals in the master. Yet after partial release the lever may sink lower as the fluid is allowed to slip past the seals. This is also not present.
However, visually inspecting, a gap can be seen between the pad an the rotor that is consistent with the dead travel on the lever. It closes and opens as the brake is applied and released. Same can be seen on the floating caliper body. Pushing pistons all the way in and pumping them back to the pads a few times (breaking stiction on the seals and allowing break fluid film to lubricate the surface), decreases the lever travel for a short period of time, presumably until the pad friction material wears off and seals stick to pistons again.
I have just put it all back together with the new seals. With my "inconsistent" measurements using a digital baggage scale, I have conservatively recovered 12mm of lever travel at 11kg of force, and
13mm at 20kg of force. We shall see how long this will last, but the difference is very noticeable.
I should point out that this is unlikely to happen with riders who chew through pads like kids through candy, where seals to not get to sit in one spot on a piston for too long. I mostly commute and use light breaking most of the time and I am sure these were factory seals on a 15 year old bike.
I should probably write this up somewhere. I even half-ass recorded my troubleshooting process. But I am a lazy dickhead. )))
I didn't know Steve Rogers have a youtube channel about bike maintainance, good work Captain America!
Just kidding, ahahahaha! I love your show Ari, but I rarely see maintainance videos for classic bikes and neo retro ones.
Ex. Drum breaks, how to clean, how to replace, how to maintain, etc.
From us in the classice groove of things, we would greatly appreciate to quality videos of it.
Until then, cheers and ride safe!
😂😂
Geezer here. For a youngster, you're pretty smart!
gone rydin what? Most scientific prizes are won by youngsters or old folks that made their studies when they were young lol
"this is a beard level 3 in the beard scale of difficulty"
Govind Sankar GG you won the internet today 😂😂
Hahaha... I wonder how high the beard scale goes? Is there such a thing as maximum beard? 😁
Yes Chuck Norris beard which is so hard even God wouldn't attempt it himself XD
lmao! >
@@MJT-DA God can't do it, he fucks up everything he touches.
Damn man, nice to find this. Well done!
Hi there, nice work. I've been watching your videos for a long time.
A very nice tool to remove the pistons if you don't got a brake piston remover, is an External 90 Circlip Plier. Attached from the inner side of the piston with no chance of damage.
Good tip, thanks!
Right on time. About to rebuild my calipers soon.
After rebuilding my 05 gsxr 1000 brakes they definitely stopped dragging. Made a massive difference in braking. Just be sure to bleed them properly. Speed bleeders make bleeding much easier
Excellent video The only thing I would add, is when cleaning the calipers. Fill a container, like a food storage container (I use the cheap glassware you can get at a dollar store) with alcohol or WD40 or something to help clean them. Brake cleaner tends to evaporate a little fast for me.
Before going straight to a metal pick, try a wittled down popsicle stick or the end of a bent/hooked zip tie to try and get under the seal to lift it out. Much smaller chance of scratching the bore that way.
I use a (sowing) needle to get the seals out. Always use NEW sealing washers. For piston removal I use a bearing puller - works great.
This may be a dumb question but shouldn't you use silicone grease on the pins instead of a petroleum-based grease to avoid deteriorating the boots?
Yes, anything that involves rubber seals has to be treated with silicone.
Silicon grease is also required for the high temperatures that brake parts can reach.
High temp silicone grease is the way to go.
Important note, on my yamaha fj1200 the service manual says NOT to split the caliper. I don't know about other bikes but checking service information is important
Very much needed this video ! Thanks a ton!
Another Great video Ari! Thanks for all the great instructional videos!
I have a 2007cbr600 and my brake caliper pistons aren't retracting. Do you think rebuilding them will help? I got new brake lines and brand new brake fluid in it. Thanks in advance
best repair videos ever!
Hello, Could you do a segment on steering headbearings? Tapered vs ball. Thanks Karl Kelley
well done, quick and efficient, thanks!
What is the torque value for pinch bolts on ktm 950 sm? The 3 bolts that connect two halfs. Thanks.
Nice vid. Help me a lot with my S1000rr brembo brakes issues
Often I'm away for a few days a week and my bike is parked up outside as i don't have a garage. In the summer it's not a problem, but come the winter with the constant rain and cold my pistons are always ceasing up! It's a real pain!
Is there an easy way to make sure they stay in good condition whilst away without having to remove them?
Just out of curiosity... Brembo do not provide any torque for the bolts holding the halves. It is even recommended to use new ones or is it only for cars? since pre torqued at factory to the elastic limit. What torque did you use?
Lubing brake seals with brake fluid alone can cause excessive lever travel because the pistons won’t be able to slide freely enough against the seal. It’s better to lube them with silicone or red rubber grease. Brembo monoblocks actually have a warning with their rebuild kits saying preparing the pressure seal with brake fluid can cause excess lever travel or dragging brake pads.
Great. I used the lube that came with my brake pistons from Brembo. I wishbthere was a definitive answer on what product is best for lube, longevity, and reliability. I don't like half-assing things.
Can I use dielectric grease on slide pins or copper grease ?
I have niffan calipers. With Brembo Rotors. I really want to upgrade from 2 pistons up front to 4 pistons up front. As well as 1 piston in the rear to 2 pistons. What Brembo Calipers would I need for my 2006 Yamaha FZ6 Naked?..
May sound like a complete rookie question here(first time doing a rebuild) when it comes to bleeding the brakes will i have to reset the piston/pads before centering the caliper?
Awesome work as always.
Love these walkthroughs
Super helpful and very thorough. Thank you!
Awesome as always, good job Ari !
Amazing!!!!! i learn so much with you guys
Another ace video, previously I had used red rubber grease to lube the pistons and seals, is this not advisable?
Brake fluid is way better.
So Ari, Every time you replace the front tire you should not torque down the calipers until you realign/Center the caliper/pads to the disk?
Not if you have axially mounted calipers, or if your radial calipers have locating dowels.
ANOTHER great video guys!!!
Excellent video informative and well detailed
Haha, same cheap ass pliers i got ! Good job, Sr. ! Centering the caliper on the rotor it's a nice detail but not a MUST. The nature of the caliper/rotor arrangement will put those pistons where they need/want to be. What should never be forgotten it's pump your brakes to check your work and make sure you can stop when you set out for a test ride.
P.S: Nice SuMo KaTooM.
Excellent work as always!
My cylinder is a bit rusted and get stuck from time to time. Would it be a good idea put some white lithium grease after removing rust to make the cylinder movement easy ?
awesome vid!!! could you do a vid on how batteries loose charge over time how to diagnose the problem and how to fix it? (like while sitting in the garage for a week and the battery is completely dead.)
is centering required for axial calipers too before tightening mounting bolts
naveedaka axial or radial should not have different handling.
Pascal Nungässer i mean the sliding pin calipers as on rear in this video??
Thanks. This was really useful to me.
Hi MCG
I have a Bajaj Pulsar 220 with bybre single piston rear caliper . It gets jammed and i have to cool it with water . I replaced the o rings once, but does not seem to solve the problem . Should I try replacing the o ring again or the bybre caliper set..?
Another great video! Thanks for all the tips. I am particularly curious if you have recommendations for or want to make a video on fuel lines, sizing concerns, how to pick replacements for them, clear lines for flow visibility, adding in-line fuel filters, issues with flow due to restrictions in the line. I did not see a video in the playlist so I thought it pertinent to ask now. Thanks Ari!
Hi Scott, we don't have a vid that addresses that stuff, but you don't want to cheap or out take shortcuts with fuel line. Buy quality fuel-resistant stuff (not hardware store vinyl) and use proper hose or crimp clamps on the connectors. I like braided translucent line like you can get from Motion Pro or Helix Racing. Both companies offer ethanol-resistant line that'll work with today's fuels. Motion Pro also has great crimping pliers and quick-release fuel fittings. I use them on all of my racebikes to make tank/carb removal faster.
Ari Henning Thanks a bunch! Gonna check out the motion pro offerings.
What's going on if I have put everything back on, nothing comes out when I try to bleed the brakes, and pumping the brake lever plenty does nothing after adding fluid to the reservoir?
Heaps of brake fluid leaked out when I took my brakes apart to clean and replace pads. I know it needs more but nothing seems to be getting sucked in from the reservoir.
If you guys can get your hands on a monster 696 or bigger can you guys do a video for the timing belt replacement .. please. Thank you
Alex Kossaian I second that.
Great vid as always. Can you please make vid about new motorcycle break-in? Thanks
thanks for the tips! I gotta say, I would personally never use steel wool for this, as the grit tends to hide in tight places. You seem very knowledgable, this is just me being picky.
Looking like a young, buff Christoph Waltz
Yo! MC Garage! Where look to purchase brake caliper rebuild kits? Can't seem to find any....
Love the maintenance tips and guides you guys provide..keep it up
Thanks Gary.
can I upgrade a rear drum brake to a rear disc break, it would be so cool if you guys can make a video
Awesome as usual
Quick question. Can you use brake cleaner directly on the pads themselves (double H sintered)? I blew a fork seal a while ago and before i had it fixed I'm thinking maybe some fork oil got on the disks because my brakes are suddenly not performing. Figured I'd do a thorough clean of everything but I also figured I'd ask someone before spraying down my pads just in case
Yep, that's exactly what it's made for.
You can put it on the pads. But if you got a lot of oil on the pads. They need to be replaced. Brake pads are very porous. You'll never able to get all the contamination (oil) out of all the nooks and crannies. I know it sucks.
Damnnnnnnnn... that sucks. Hopefully they improve enough after I get done servicing them. Thanks for the info
Hey Ari, how do you clean fluid filters? My bike is giving me some issues and I am going to see if cleaning the fuel filter helps but it would be nice to have a how-to video from you guys
You toss it out and attach a new one.
You can also lube the new seals and pistons with something called brake assembly fluid. Made specifically for that purpose. Got it on Amazon.
coming from 10 plus years of jet engine maintenance, you can lube parts, o-rings, and seals with whatever fluid that they go with respectively. It is the best way to lube things. that was taught to me by guys with 25 plus years
I really want to do this on my bike as there is some rust on the pistons and I noticed some uneven pad wear. Unfortunately my bike uses four piston opposing calipers which can't be split!
Is the best way to get the pistons out just pumping them out while the system is still all together? Was thinking I could put something thick between the pistons so they all hit it, then put something thinner, then thinner etc until they are all most of the way out. Otherwise I'm at a total loss. Bent nose pliers with a rag maybe?
The technique you describe it a good one. Brembo also suggests clamping all but one piston down and then pressing the unsecured piston out with compressed air. Motion Pro also sells a slim little piston-removal tool that should do the trick. We wanted to include it in this vid but the order didn't arrive in time.
I understand that this is the wrong video to post this comment, I love how you explain how things work on these 2 wheel machines. But I was wondering if you can make a video on advantages and disadvantages between link-less and linkage rear suspension. I have not seen any video covering it. Unless I was not looking very hard in UA-cam.
This isn't the wrong place to post that question-we end every video with a call for questions. That's how we get ideas for future vids! I'll add your suggestion to the list. Thanks.
Do not use air, pistons are not to be "fired" anywhere.
Soak or drain old fluid out of reservoir and fill with fresh fluid and refit the lid.
Undo the banjo and do it back up finger tight.
Remove the caliper and jack the piston out with hydraulic pressure from the brake lever in a controlled manner over a plastic catch tray, checking as you go to make sure the reservoir is not empty.
Ensuring the reservoir cap is on while doing it or you risk fluid coming back out of it in the bike as you pump it.
When fluid escapes out the side of the piston you can remove it the rest of the way with fingers.
Once the piston is out undo the banjo and store the hose end to stop it draining.
When it goes back on the system has fresh fluid in it and no old fluid will enter the clean caliper.
Anyone can do what they like to their own calipers, but for mechanics working on other vehicles, they don't own the calipers to be taking risks damaging one.
If some folks want to risk it that up to them but using hydraulic pressure to remove them will never damage the piston or injure anyone, it will also remove old fluid that can be displaced with new fluid in the same process.
And doesn't require a compressor so do it, so it makes no sense to use air.
If people like the bang sound of a piston shooting out then by all means go for it.
I have a transalp, it doesnt have the best brake setup. Two piston single rotor up front. Will swapping to steel braided brake line have a noticeable effect? Might as well do it all at once
Martin Fisker steel brakeline doesn't expand likerubber brake line does, so you'll probably have a bit more stopping power when you really squeeze your lever.
Bart RD50MX Its not that i really need more power, i just want a more firm feeling and more feedback. I know, in theory, steel lines would do just that. I just need to know if it makes a noticeable difference from someone who has tried both
I swapped out my OEM lines for braided SS on my MT-01 and I didn't notice much of a difference in use. The SS braiding is just for mechanical exterior protection and it also does not need replacement every 5 years like OEM (plus you can get nice colours!). Pressure is maintained by the same tough inner lining regardless of exterior material. This is my understanding and I have heard this from a guy involved with bike racing teams and a car engineer who rides. SS is just a more resilient protective coating.
Very useful video. Thank you!
Love your videos Ari! Can I seriously get you some boxes of gloves? I know you love working on bikes but many fluid are carcinogenic
Since we are on brake mind going over the drum brakes too?
Who's here after watching a Dave Moss video?
So glad I have this in my tool belt and shocked I didn't know about frozen pistons before
Thanks for the video. I got this.
Great HOW TO!!
Great idea well done 👍
your videos have safe a lot and make me understand my bike.
I have watch all most your videos 👏👏👏, pls I will like you to make video (how to service throttle body) because I have check almost your videos the similar one is how to service carburetor.
Thanks
Thanks for watching. One of the great things about EFI is that there isn't much needed in the way of regular service. Make sure they butterflies are synched (if you have a multi-cylinder engine) and that's about it. There are things that can go wrong with EFI, like fuel-pump failure, TPS issues, or clogged injectors, but those issues are rare. Regardless, I'll add it to the list. Thanks for the suggestion.
Good job, but brake fluid is corrosive, do not forget the gloves.😄
Also, brake line washers are one use only
That's what they say, but I reuse 'em all the time. Same with drain-plug washers.
Precisely. Brake fluid is somewhat corrosive, not just messy, better be using gloves.
i'ts okay, but you must immediately wash your hands if you don't use gloves 😂 😂 😂
It's okay, my hands are unpainted ;)
Cheers brother your vids are awesome!
Amazing videos. Keep it coming!!
nice to see new uploads! :)
Every two weeks Peter. We haven't missed by more than a day or two in more than two years.
Great video man
Can you please do a video about washing a bike ? Does water damage the bike with future corrosion? Does a cleaning foam spray is better? Thanks a lot guys 🤙🏼🍺
10 Bonder If water will be not good for the bike, you will never drive in rain... 😏
What torque do you apply to screw the two half caliper bolts? In Nm
That's something you'll find in your owner's manual, but typically it's in the 20-28 Nm range.
Ha! I’ve seen too many videos. I think I recognize Zack’s bike.
Just to say that not all seals use a chamfered edge, they may be square cross section (eg. Yamaha blue spots).