How To Store Mated Queen For Later Use
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- How To Store Mated Queen For Later Use
How To Store Mated Queen For Later Use is an instrumental beekeeping UA-cam video explaining how storing a mated queen is easily done by just installing her in one of our Barnyard Bees 2 frame Nuc. Queen banking is another term used. But in queen banking, the queen is kept in a cage and put in a hive, and worker bees will feed, and tend to the mated queen. But queen banking doesn't allow the queen Honeybee to be laying eggs while she's being stored. I n the 2 frame nuc the queen never stops laying, and by doing so it keeps her female parts active. Caged queens placed in queen banking can shut down her ovaries. Here are the plans for the 2 frame Nuc. And also here is a link to our store if you would
rather buy it. barnyardbees.c...
Check out the TikTok video here
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2 frame nuc measurments.
Bottom board is 5"x 21"
Sides 10 1/4 x 19 3/4"
Front 3 1/2" x 8 3/4"
Back 3 1/2" x 9 1/2.......
5 frame nuc measurments.
Bottom board is 9"x 21"
Sides 10 1/4 x 19 3/4"
Front 7 1/2" x 8 3/4"
Back 7 1/2" x 9 1/2.........
Top feeder box
Bottom 10 1/2" x 20"
Sides. 3 1/2" x 20"
Ends. 3 1/2" x 12"......
All of these measurements are based on assembling with 3/4" material such as Advantech...
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2021 Packages (Gentle Stock Packaged Bees) - Barnyard Bees
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Check out the TikTok video here
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Check out video below on how to make your own brood builder.
• How To Make Honey Bee ...
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2 frame nuc measurments.
Bottom board is 5"x 21"
Sides 10 1/4 x 19 3/4"
Front 3 1/2" x 8 3/4"
Back 3 1/2" x 9 1/2.......
5 frame nuc measurments.
Bottom board is 9"x 21"
Sides 10 1/4 x 19 3/4"
Front 7 1/2" x 8 3/4"
Back 7 1/2" x 9 1/2.........
Top feeder box
Bottom 10 1/2" x 20"
Sides. 3 1/2" x 20"
Ends. 3 1/2" x 12"......
All of these measurements are based on assembling with 3/4" material such as Advantech...
#queenbanking #queenbee #honeybees
You are a major source of knowledge of Bees and their behavior. I don't keep Bees but I know how important they are and how important your work is. Each year if I see and injured one, I try to help it out. From the UK, Number One, my friend.
Thanks so much!!!
I have 40 of these 2-frame units and sold 70 queens this year using them. They work great!
Goodday Tim. How does this 2 frame hives work?
Let us say you put in 2 frames each with eggs, larvae etc. Then I take a mated queen and put her in. So she started lying eggs. Now because of the lack of space the bees build queen cells. After hatching youve got a few queens.
So, now they go out and mate and there you have it. But won't the queen bees start fighting? Cobus🐳
@@jacobuslodewikusjoubert4467 if the bees build swarm cells, remove queen and leave at least 2 QC. Put the rest of QC in other 2 framers.
Bravo! Thank you! I feel like this is a major legacy contribution to beekeeping.
That is why I love the 3 frame nucs better over 2 frame when over crowding pull a frame add a starter frame
Built some of these 2 frame hives that David builds and think they are just awesome for keeping queens on hand for emergency use, Thank you barn yard bees for this valuable tip
I'm seeing you now quite a time working with this 2-framers but never gave it a try. This video convinced me and I soon will build some of this 2 framers to make new queens. Thank's for sharing your valuable knowledge with the world. God bless you.
Iz there a chance online to get some dimensions for boulding DIY 2..3 frame nucs? Are the same size as AŽ hives?
BARNYARD BEES HAS CUT SIZES, LOOK UNDER "HOW TO MAKE QUEENS W2 FRAME MATING NUCS"@@climb315
I just finished a 15 hour work day and thought that said “Store Malted Queens” - and I thought for a second David had some secret chocolate malt for super bees
Lol, that was funny!!!
I make them out of any 3/4 in scrap! Its great! You cant over winter 2 framers here, so I dont even worry about paint sometimes. My mom needed to split some queen cells up and there was some 3/4 in scrap. Whipped 2 up in 20 min and put bees in them. Theyre super versatile
I had a few two framers last summer, based on your channel. Those nucs were packed and bearding like crazy but they never swarmed. I was shocked. I guess they cant make enough bees to allow for swarming.
These Mini mating Nuc never get old.
Those two framers are really good for moving those swarm cell into when you find them also.
THANK YOU for this video! Now I know how to have a queen bank.
You are quite welcome.
As always great advice i could have used 2 today on my hive checks instead i will combine 2 hives tomorrow
Possibly the single most useful piece of beekeeping equiptment. I plan to try overwintering a couple this year in Oregon; screen the entrances and keep em in the garage when it’s below 30. Thought I’d set them outside for cleansing flights an hour before dusk when temps are at least mid 40s, bring back in at sundown. Every year there are beeks searching for late-season queens when theirs die in Nov/Dec, and none are available. Think we can help each other out if any who have extra queens bank them, indoors if necessary, and make them available.
I keep a couple of 2 framers cranking out brood or drawing comb from spring onward; one frame of nectar/pollen, another of drawn comb. Pull the capped brood out after maybe 20% has emerged (so there’s constantly some nurse bees in it). Also pretty good for drawing out (heavily waxed) plastic foundation if you feed about a cup per day of 1:1. If wanting to draw comb, I’ll let one full frame of brood hatch out so the nuc is packed with young bees, then let them draw out a frame of plastic, then another frame laid and hatched, etc. One nice thing is you often produce a broodless state when a frame is pulled; ideal time to hit with OA dribble. I like to grab the queen in a clip, pop the clip into another hive; dribble the 2 framer, return the queen the next day.
I was always taught to only allow queens to be made in a decent sized colony with all the essentials to do it or you end up with crappy queens. I guess this works if you’re meeting that criteria, obviously works for you, so will give it a try.
I also keep bees, I live in Siberia, the breed is "Carpathian". I'm watching your videos with interest, class.
Going to try that , good job buddy...
Thank you David for sharing your information, my son and I usually try what you let us in on.
Great Video and thanks for the measurements!
Lol, overwinter....probably not here in Wisconsin. Maybe a 5 framers
First to comment, great advice David been meaning to build some myself. Caught 10 swarms this spring and bees are doing great. As always really enjoy your channels.
I was first 😂. Give me my moment 😂
Sorry didn’t see yours, 🙏
Dennis Anthony don’t be sorry my friend. All in good fun 👍
Thanks David.
Well David I know you like the two frame boxes but I prefer the three frame boxes better than the two frame so it treats his own
Thank you I will 🐝 building some!!
I have a number of 5 frame nucs but I liked to try your idea of the 2 frame nucs so rather than build them new, I have made a 3 frame size packing block that drops down inside my 5 framers reducing the nuc space that the bees can access to just 2 frames. When the colony is strong enough I take the blocker out and slide the the two frames across and insert 3 new frames (2 and 1) either side and I`m back to a thriving 5 frame nuc.
How long does it take for them to fill a 2 frame to the point that they are ready to swarm!! During the nectar flow!!
Do you sell the (wood) housing for the feeders that you have on top of your 2 framers? I see that you can purchase a 2 frame nuk on your website but not the housing for the feeders? Thanks!
How long does the queen live for?
What's the time frame to move to a 5 frame then a 10 frame box before winter in N. E.?
I hatched out some vergins into a cages. One of them the wing that looks wrinkled. Will this be a problem?
They will make a queen. But the quality of such Queen is the question.
You are in No GA. I am in mid-MD. You suggest pulling a frame of brook from a crowded 2-framer and replace it with a starter strip. How late in the year can you get away with that. Rather, how late do you think we in mid-MD can do that and get them to draw out the frame? We are in the dearth now. I suppose you always feed 1:1 when wanting them to draw out a starter strip, right?
I quit splitting 2 framers in August, and move most of them into a 5 frame nuc. 1:1 sugar is what I feed till October.
Do you think you can have the same results in a 5 frame ?
Yes but requires more bees.
@@davidhaught84 good point thanks
David, I'm still learning so please forgive me but I have a question. Why start with a 2 frame nuc and have to move them again, instead, go ahead and go to a 5 frame nuc and skip the 2 frame to give them more space and to build the hive and less moving?
Well the reason is you can start with just 1 frame of bees, and if you would start out in a 5 frame you would need at least 2. The bees build up faster in a smaller enclosure. But if you was installing packaged bees you would want to use a 5 frame nuc. Hope this helped ya. David
Do you have dimensions for a two frame nuc. Also what do you use for a camera. Thanks. Lou
The dimensions are in description, and I use the Galaxy Note 9.
Kept in a two frame, better than a five frame?
I am sure that skinny two frames nuc have swarmed a couple of times and you may not no not notice it. I would never make small much like that. The smallest I would make would be a five frames.
Only if you don't stay on top of it. 2 frames are only a starting point, and queen rearing.
Dont the bees fight if swapping frames ? Here in uk were told to shake bees off and just add brood,eggs etc
Seems like most pro Beekeepers swap bees, or even share honey supers across multiple nucs with a queen excluder, with no fighting or issues.
It helps when you do it in the daytime when the grumpy old foragers are out, because the nurse bees don't really care about fighting, they are all about the love.
Same here in Puerto Rico. I did it once 12 o' clock midday. I will never do it again, hell break loose and they killed each other.
But I saw the same mixing practice from a German bee keeper and bees just kept going on with no fighting. I guess it depends on the temper of the breed of bees you have.
Im new to beekeeping this year 2021 . I noticed there were many dead bees on the feeder above the two framer. How common is this. Is this going into winter?
Answer to my prayers. Honestly I needed to watch this video. I made a split and did all that you said. The new split was on point as to making their own queen 3 days later I saw a queen cell it looked so pretty and all on day 5 what the heck happened to the queen cell that they made? All I see now is drone but where is my queen ?? These bees seem to always amaze me.. what do I do anyone?
Capped cell ? If you saw a capped cell, came back 5 days later and it's gone...you have an unmated queen running around in there. Leave it alone for a week to ten days. Take two aspirin and call me in a week.
Mike Ries thanks
If its worker bees laying, I'd take them bout 50 yards away from any other hive an shake em out, but if there just queenless, an you dont see any eggs, you can just put those frames in a queen rita hive, but dont put them frames in between brood in the queen rite hive. Keep them to one side, or in another brood chamber, on top.
wayne watson - cedar branch hives wayne watson - cedar branch hives thank you. I was thinking about doing this. For some reason have not been successful in doing splits. They all go back to the original colony and that’s because I have them a few feet apart I have also turned the hive so entrances can be facing opposite directions. Still nothing and just when I thought this split would have a chance it just proved I was wrong. I don’t know what I am doing wrong. Maybe it’s not my time yet. Who knows...
@@gloriagzlz so your just doing walk a way splits ? I personally dont like doing that, i do 3 frame splits and introduce either a mated queen, or put a cell in them, do your split one day, an the next day add a capped cell, or install a caged mated queen , if you do walk away splits, either move them, or add extra bees, because worker bees will go back to original colony.
how would you end up with a 'spare' queen? we bought one - she's not there. no clue what happened. I'm surprised the bees are still in the hive at all. we're hoping to catch a swarm - but so far there are no queen cells either.
How do you keep them from getting robbed out? Tried several time this spring and they were all robbed unfortunately.
I have small entrances, 1 inch hole with a round closure to keep queen in or close up to move. Never had one robbed out yet.
David, In your opinion, what is the minimum equipment needed for the beginner need to be successful?
Knowledge is top of the list, unfortunately you don't get it till you keep bees.
Join a local club or find someone local to learn from.
You only need basic tools, a beesuit, smoker, hive inspection tool and not a whole lot more.
A hive is a hive, go with what's used in your area if you can. It'll be easier to get help and equipment loans if your equipments the same as those around you.
If you want to raise queens then some extras are nice but it's not impossible with basics or even nothing at all.
Also, success is measured differently by different people.
As you're a beginner ill tell you if your measure of success is the amount of honey you harvest you need to shift your thinking more towards expansion of the bees.
You'll get better results over the longer term, be more sustainable (i.e. Cost you less money) and you'll have more honey than you know what to do with
Sorry for the novel BTW but your question is somewhat open
I learned on my own and the above comes from that.
I'm lucky in that I didn't harm my bees, now with some knowledge and meeting others, learning from them and seeing where I went 'not completely correct' has been invaluable.
Videos and books are all good but having a person face to face with local knowledge is priceless.
It's real easy to set up for failure when you don't know your local flows, local climate etc
@@Th3_Gael Thanks for your response and I agree with what your saying. I tried this back in 1998. Unfortunately, I had a total failure. That year was the beginning of the boll weevil eradication program that the Sate of Louisiana started. I blamed that program on the failure, but I am now thinking it I may have had some responsibility for that failure also. The cotton field that I lived next was sprayed unrelentlessly for 5 years.
I think I was too vague on my comment. What I am trying to find out is: 1) How many hive bodies do I need? 2) How many supers? 3) How many nucs? It's more of a infrastructure question on the preparation on starting this endeavor again. I see many videos on the basic stuff, but what do you actually need to be successful? Example: you will need (2) 8 frame hive bodies, 2 supers, and a 2 frame nuc for splits or swarms, a oxaclic acid vaporizer,....etc.
Living Orwellian Dreams well said sir well said
@@riverton70 no problem.
I can't really give an answer to how many spare boxes you need, I'm not local to you and don't know your flows, how much time you have spare etc.
Id guess 3 boxes per hive initially but that depends on the setup you run and again, honey flows and how much time you can give them each week.
If you can exchange full frames for empties in your supers your bees won't run out of space, no different to adding extra space tbh just a bit more work.
If I were in your shoes I'd buy Nucleus colonies and not packages.
The Nuc you receive won't be great (equipment wise) but can be kept and used for splits or even overwintering some splits you've made yourself, depending on the severity of your winters.
That'll allow you to give bees room with no equipment financial outlay
I'm in Scotland so our winters aren't as bad as some places in America or most of Canada and our flows aren't as good as yours.
Seriously, try to find someone on Facebook etc that's local and they'll answer all of your questions in just a few minutes.
Молодець.
It’s not to late to make queens this way? Just find a frame with Brood + eggs and let the rip? Have a trick to find the eggs (my old eyes through the veil) - always seems not to find any.. ?
You would need to make sure the bees have the resources to make a decent queen, they need to be feeding her as she develops.
Agree on the veil issue, I tend to use a torch or the sun to help me out, black plastic foundation helps but I don’t use it as caused me to many problems.
Tip 👀
If you have a Mobile Phone (Cell Phone) do a Close Up Photo ((Zoom in Mode) of several Areas of a Frame, where you kinda thought you might "Have Seen Eggs" ?!? Or Not... Replay Photo back, Zoom on in on those photos : That Foootage should Show Eggs the Size of Beans (!) And not Dinky Tiny Grains of Rice.
Simples. Works for me here in Scotland 🏴 And bonus is : you have some Record images, to check back on, Dated by the Use of Your Camera ! 👍
Easy to forget, Month to Month, or Season to Season.
🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝
Happy Beekeeping 2022.
🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝
Another Tip :
Buy some x3 Magnifier Ready Reader Glasses, put them under your Chin, or on top of your Head, WITHIN your Veil.
Easy to nudge up or down to your Nose, when needed, (as wearing them all the time makes me kinda giddy : as to strong a lens for non close up stuff !) 🙄
Paul the Man... See my Comment Re Seeing 👀 Eggs : with a Cell Phone !
I wonder if you insulate your 2 frame hives it would help them over winter ...?.
Yes it would in colder climates.
As long as you have front and top ventilation as insulation causes a lot more moisture build up. I stopped insulating my hives because of this as it is a big cause of dead outs.
Second