We get our 986 Boxster corner balanced and aligned for an upcoming track day. Hard Race adjustable caster arms available at Pro Speed Racing here www.prospeedra...
Thanks for the informative video, particularly the ending. I recently acquired a 1998 Boxster 2.5L at 84k miles. After around six months of having fun, I decided to replace the struts (OEM to Koni special actives), the springs (OEM to H&R lowering), and the anti-roll bars (OEM to Eibach). With great trepidation I got the car back and tried it, and was a little underwhelmed. I trust the shop (I living in the SF Bay Area), but I feel the steering is still loose, vague, and imprecise. It was a little disappointing. I searched "boxster" and "caster" and saw your video. My shop got the caster to be 8.2° and 8.4°, and in your video I noticed it was around 7.5°. Would you recommend this? My shop also put position toe-in in the front, and I wanted to ask if you liked it with slight toe-out. Lastly, would you recommend replacing the control arms? I am looking for guidance rather than going at it by myself!
Yes replace everything! Even if it isn’t the mileage it is the age. I replaced my front coffin arms 2 weeks ago (check out my video) and what a difference it makes having all new bushings. I’ll do my rears next because now the back end feels sloppy. It is mostly a track car with R Comp Nankang AR1 semi slicks. I have my car at a Cup Car height and have adjustable caster arms so it will be quite different from yours and more caster helps the wheel return to centre. If you really want grip in the corners first you need tires. Then you need bushings that aren’t butter. Then an alignment to make it work. No point in getting the alignment if it goes out because of deflection in your suspension. If it’s a road car I would just go OEM or similar. I really like the design of my new SPC adjustable front arms and they also sell an adjustable front caster arm and rear toe arm, often as a kit). If you get those arms you will need either and adjustable caster arm or swap out the bushing for an adjustable one. My alignment is 0 front toe and 2.5mm total toe in rear. Front camber is -3.2°F and -2.8°R but you won’t need (or be able to get) that much camber. Remember you can get GT3 everything for the front of these. Tires are the key. What do you have? Toe out gives a sharp turn in but is darty at speed
Thanks for the informative video, particularly the ending.
I recently acquired a 1998 Boxster 2.5L at 84k miles.
After around six months of having fun, I decided to replace the struts (OEM to Koni special actives), the springs (OEM to H&R lowering), and the anti-roll bars (OEM to Eibach).
With great trepidation I got the car back and tried it, and was a little underwhelmed. I trust the shop (I living in the SF Bay Area), but I feel the steering is still loose, vague, and imprecise. It was a little disappointing.
I searched "boxster" and "caster" and saw your video. My shop got the caster to be 8.2° and 8.4°, and in your video I noticed it was around 7.5°. Would you recommend this? My shop also put position toe-in in the front, and I wanted to ask if you liked it with slight toe-out. Lastly, would you recommend replacing the control arms? I am looking for guidance rather than going at it by myself!
Yes replace everything! Even if it isn’t the mileage it is the age. I replaced my front coffin arms 2 weeks ago (check out my video) and what a difference it makes having all new bushings. I’ll do my rears next because now the back end feels sloppy. It is mostly a track car with R Comp Nankang AR1 semi slicks. I have my car at a Cup Car height and have adjustable caster arms so it will be quite different from yours and more caster helps the wheel return to centre.
If you really want grip in the corners first you need tires. Then you need bushings that aren’t butter. Then an alignment to make it work. No point in getting the alignment if it goes out because of deflection in your suspension. If it’s a road car I would just go OEM or similar. I really like the design of my new SPC adjustable front arms and they also sell an adjustable front caster arm and rear toe arm, often as a kit). If you get those arms you will need either and adjustable caster arm or swap out the bushing for an adjustable one.
My alignment is 0 front toe and 2.5mm total toe in rear. Front camber is -3.2°F and -2.8°R but you won’t need (or be able to get) that much camber. Remember you can get GT3 everything for the front of these. Tires are the key. What do you have? Toe out gives a sharp turn in but is darty at speed
Where did you get those Caster Control Arms from?
They are made by Hard Race and I got them from Pro Speed Racing here in Australia. I’ll put the link in the description.