For speaker wire, it’s better to use a jacketed 14 AWG 2 pair than that stranded speaker stuff. I’ve found it’s much neater when bundling multiple lines, and it’s in wall rated.
Dave would it be better to do 4mm2 for applications that specify 2.5 and use 1.5 for applications that specify 1.0 if you intend to pull more than 35 meters from the Circuit breaker to point Electrical fixtures (Sockets and Lights)? From a Cost benefit analysis how much more does 1.5 cost when compared to 1.0? In North America its common to Pull 14 AWG (2.5 mm2)wire for lights. The Standard Nema 5-15 Plug outlets typically use 12 awg (4 mm2). Most of the cost is going to be in Labor.
I would run a 1.5 T&E to the refrigerator P/P. Good practice not to loop the refrigerator off to anything else. The 1.5mm Flex to the HWC can only be used if the TPS cable going to the HWC is also 1.5mm, if you drop cable sizes you should put a fuse/breaker where it changes size. for a short runs to the Hobbs/Wall oven 4mm would also do, its rated for over 30 A and the volt drop is still within spec.
Wow, this is important stuff, really appreciate this vid - not discouraging me at the least, just making me aware of what I need for each application - choice one bro!
if running cable from and Inverter in one shed to another shed (80m) calculated to be 16mm (for voltage drop), do you just use 2c +e TPS or go 2 x single core 25mm XPLE (similar cost) or something else altogether. thanx
Hi Dave. I’m going to ask a really stupid question that I probably already know the answer to, but if I ran out of 2.5mm but have 1mm TPS, can you twist two lots of 1mm to make a 2mm cable? Is that safe? Thanks!
For speakers cables it can be desirable to use twisted pairs -- cuts down on radio interference and hum. At least avoid running a speaker cable beside a power cable.
HOME OWNERS ARE NOT ALLOWED TO WORK ON THE SWITCHBOARD OR ENERGISE ANY LOW VOLTAGE CIRCUIT. GOOD LUCK CLAIMING INSURANCE IF THERE IS NO CERTIFICATION FOR THE WORK DONE
You are correct but in NZ the homeowner can pull cables to near the board, terminate lights and outlets legally then have an electrician put them into the switchboard and test. So knowing cable size is valid information. Besides Dave seemes to target his channel to helping apprentice electricians learn, so some of the things he discusses are electrician specific which is ok too.
@@SuperThomasmorgan did I say you didn't need inspection or hookup by a registered electirican? Go back and read I said "near the board" and stop acting like pulling cable is some black art. Yeah terminating at the consumer unit requires some skills and tests, hence inspections or termination by a registered electirican, but as I said it's all good for a homeowner to pull their own cables. 57c "installing, extending, and altering subcircuits (including submains), but only if- (i) the person does not enter (whether directly, or by holding any material or equipment, or otherwise) any enclosure where live conductors are likely to be present; and (ii) the work is tested and certified in accordance with Part 2 of AS/NZS 3000, before being connected to a power supply, by a person authorised to inspect mains work." That's completely in agreeance with what I said, the homeowner can pull near the board /don't enter the board. For a low risk job, eg new circuit on existing board, that authorised person entering the board could be an electrician, and a new board would be inspected anyways regardless of who pulled it(and would likely need both an electrician and inspector to finish the job because the inspector wouldn't want to do the work)
For speaker wire, it’s better to use a jacketed 14 AWG 2 pair than that stranded speaker stuff.
I’ve found it’s much neater when bundling multiple lines, and it’s in wall rated.
Dave would it be better to do 4mm2 for applications that specify 2.5
and use 1.5 for applications that specify 1.0 if you intend to pull more than 35 meters from the Circuit breaker to point Electrical fixtures (Sockets and Lights)?
From a Cost benefit analysis how much more does 1.5 cost when compared to 1.0?
In North America its common to Pull 14 AWG (2.5 mm2)wire for lights.
The Standard Nema 5-15 Plug outlets typically use 12 awg (4 mm2).
Most of the cost is going to be in Labor.
Dave, have you got a video on wiring a bathroom heater, light and fan to 3 switches?
Not yet...it is on the list somewhere
Hey Dave! Great vids! Can you possibly do one for “how to wire up outdoor socket” for say a pump for fish tank.. cheers
Nice! What about outdoor wiring (overhead or underground)?
I would run a 1.5 T&E to the refrigerator P/P. Good practice not to loop the refrigerator off to anything else.
The 1.5mm Flex to the HWC can only be used if the TPS cable going to the HWC is also 1.5mm, if you drop cable sizes you should put a fuse/breaker where it changes size.
for a short runs to the Hobbs/Wall oven 4mm would also do, its rated for over 30 A and the volt drop is still within spec.
Great bro , keep carry on
Wow, this is important stuff, really appreciate this vid - not discouraging me at the least, just making me aware of what I need for each application - choice one bro!
if running cable from and Inverter in one shed to another shed (80m) calculated to be 16mm (for voltage drop), do you just use 2c +e TPS or go 2 x single core 25mm XPLE (similar cost) or something else altogether. thanx
Hi Dave. I’m going to ask a really stupid question that I probably already know the answer to, but if I ran out of 2.5mm but have 1mm TPS, can you twist two lots of 1mm to make a 2mm cable? Is that safe? Thanks!
Hey Dave, what wire would you suggest using to add a 15A socket to a shed?
I believe it is typically 2.5mmTC&E but you can only run a single 15A GPO for each run, compared with multiple standard 10A GPOs on 2.5mm CCT
Love the videos man thanks
Is there no CPC (ground, earth, idk what else to call it) in your 3 core cable
There is earth in 3 core. CPC is British for earth now? So yeah from my understand your earth cable to bare within the 3 core while ours is sheeved
Can you use 2.5mm cable for light wiring?
You could use 10mm if you want but it wouldn’t be practical for install or cost wise.
you didn't mention what cable to use between panels, like a sub panel in the garage or workshop
The big ones
you can use 2.5mm as thats the minimum according to code.
Hi Dave, can I use one of those TPS cable for audio?
no
you technically can but its not the proper way to do it and it could affect the sound quality.
On his later videos he has a disclaimer at the beginning.
For speakers cables it can be desirable to use twisted pairs -- cuts down on radio interference and hum. At least avoid running a speaker cable beside a power cable.
Why not 2.5 in switchboard?
AS3000
Second. Thanks for the vid.
thanks
How about start using brown and blue as line and neutral like the rest of the world.
HOME OWNERS ARE NOT ALLOWED TO WORK ON THE SWITCHBOARD OR ENERGISE ANY LOW VOLTAGE CIRCUIT. GOOD LUCK CLAIMING INSURANCE IF THERE IS NO CERTIFICATION FOR THE WORK DONE
Wowzas calm down mate.
You are correct but in NZ the homeowner can pull cables to near the board, terminate lights and outlets legally then have an electrician put them into the switchboard and test. So knowing cable size is valid information.
Besides Dave seemes to target his channel to helping apprentice electricians learn, so some of the things he discusses are electrician specific which is ok too.
@@mtnbikeman85 That's incorrect. The work you have described requires an ROI by Electrical inspector. You need to review ECP51 & Regulation 57.
@@SuperThomasmorgan did I say you didn't need inspection or hookup by a registered electirican? Go back and read I said "near the board" and stop acting like pulling cable is some black art. Yeah terminating at the consumer unit requires some skills and tests, hence inspections or termination by a registered electirican, but as I said it's all good for a homeowner to pull their own cables.
57c "installing, extending, and altering subcircuits (including submains), but only if-
(i)
the person does not enter (whether directly, or by holding any material or equipment, or otherwise) any enclosure where live conductors are likely to be present; and
(ii)
the work is tested and certified in accordance with Part 2 of AS/NZS 3000, before being connected to a power supply, by a person authorised to inspect mains work."
That's completely in agreeance with what I said, the homeowner can pull near the board /don't enter the board. For a low risk job, eg new circuit on existing board, that authorised person entering the board could be an electrician, and a new board would be inspected anyways regardless of who pulled it(and would likely need both an electrician and inspector to finish the job because the inspector wouldn't want to do the work)
@@mtnbikeman85 That's incorrect again. I strongly suggest you thoroughly read through AS/NZS 3000:2007 Section 6 and ESR 89.
First