One of the best YT channels for 80-96 302 motors, period. Ever consider a dash removal vid to replace the vent / heat selection mechanisms? Or a video on running additional 12v power lines to support additional USB plugs / additional speaker wire tie-ins to the head unit?
Thanks Nick!🤙 I appreciate it. I haven’t had any issues with the vent or heat selection mechanisms yet. The dash cluster with the selection knobs I think unbolts from the dash without having to remove the entire dash. As for additional 12v power lines, my new cup holders have USB ports on the sides. So I will be doing that eventually. Definitely want to upgrade my speaker system to include an amp and sub👌
@@TheMinuteMasters May I also suggest adding USB / 12V outlets to the rear interior side panels? These would recess between the panel and bed wall and provide power hookup at the tailgate for tailgating / camping purposes. Thanks again for the videos, your vacuum repair and steering wheel replacement videos are super useful for diagnosing and repairing issues with the factory cruise control. Looking forward to the next drop!
@@ibandageyou good suggestion! I thought about adding an actual outlet back there with average converter. You’re welcome man! 🤙 I’m glad you enjoyed them.
5:10- had me cracking up haha loves your videos!! I comment on replacing the vacuum lines and I was curious how they’re doing? I’m thinking about ordering the same thing you did (same truck, F250 with 5.0 tho)
Great video. Chances you have a video on how to fix a 95 OBS fuel tank issue unable to top up? Many forums say it could be the charcoal canister. Anyways, thank you for your content.
Thanks man!🤙 I sort of do. There are three things that need to be checked/replaced. 1) the gas cap acts as a vent and can go bad. 2) there’s a vent valve on top of the gas tank that can fail. I have a video on how to replace it. 3) the charcoal canister can clog and cause an issue as well.
Just picked up a 93 5.8L.. I’m getting codes 328 & 512, any idea on what it could be ? Should I just replace the EGR ? Any feedback on How should I go about it, new to all of this so your videos are helpful thanks in advance.
Nice! I don’t know those codes off hand so I’ll walk you through my typical process. A) I Google the codes and the most likely fixes. I assume 328 is the EGR relate code. Depending on how many miles are on your truck it’s not a bad idea to replace the EGR. If you buy an EGR from Amazon, they’re about half the cost of a parts store. EGR codes can also be triggered by degrading vacuum lines. So it’s probably worth doing a vacuum check if your engine or just out of preventive maintenance replacing all of the existing vacuum lines. I have a full video on that.
What was the issue that leads you to change the EGR? My truck has gray smoke that smells like too much fuel I don't know if change this valve will help
I was getting a code 334 and I was slightly suspicious of my EGR valve sticking open. If you are getting gray smoke in smelling fuel, it could be that you aren’t having a complete Byrne. I would check to make sure your ignition system is strong and functioning properly. I would also check timing.
@@TheMinuteMasters I found the valve but I don’t know where is the sensor located, because is not the one on the top one ,, this valve doesn’t go on the top
I would keep your EGR. I feel like the only people that benefit with EGR deletes our diesel trucks. A smog delete on a gas truck seems to have more benefits if you use an idler pulley and the factory belt.
Hey minute master, I have a question. I have a ford f150 and it is having problems. When I first take off it feels like it stutters at first like a quick loss of power but when I get up to about 45 mph it jerks down and the rpm s go up and then stop but it does this off and on the whole ride and my engine light is not on. Any tips? Anything would be appreciated thanks.
Hi, kind of sounds like a transmission issue but before we get ahead of ourselves, I would read the codes on your truck. I know the check engine light isn’t on, but sometimes codes can be triggered and the CEL will stay off. When was the last time your truck had an ignition tune up?
@TheMinuteMasters I just changed the plugs and wires last week it runs a little better but still didn't fix the issue and I noticed the vacuum line that is connected to my ac was dry rotten in half fixed that but still didn't fix it
I was kind of thinking the transmission but I don't understand why when I takeoff it has that sputter that's why I was thinking it might not be the transmission but idk. You think it could be the fuel filter or EGR valve?
@@williamgoodman7088 there are a lot of things that could cause issues. The key is a really precise process of illumination. Also, your local auto parts store won’t be able to read OBD1 codes. A mechanic shop might.
I would first check your codes to make sure all sensors are working. However, if you are holding the gas down, it could be fuel related. Change your fuel filter and test the pressure of your fuel pump via the inlet on the fuel rail.
hey guys i really need help, at 0:43, theres that little black cap sits on top of the two intake hoses. My truck is missing that, and i dont know what its called!
I replaced mine when I rebuilt my engine. However, I removed the pipe to the lower manifold (put a plug in the lower manifold)....and just ran the pipe off to the side, with a filter on the end. So, essentially, I'm no longer taking exhaust out of the lower manifold. I'm just taking fresh air that the EGR injects into the plenum. Hasn't changed anything, I think. The only possible effect is that when the outside air is cold in winter, the engine doesn't want to go through the whole warmup phase. It wants to stall a little while after I start the engine (not idle properly), so I just have to hold my foot on the gas for about a minute...and then the engine idles properly after that. I put the edelbrock truck manifold on my truck....and I basically would have had to customize an egr pipe to make it work, so I said...fuck it...and just ran the pipe to a filter. This change does not produce a code, to be clear.
That’s good to know Joe! I like that Edelbrock intake plenum a lot. I don’t advise removing the EGR system because it throws a code and turns the CEL on.
The EGR is only activated at part throttle, it shouldn't have any affect on your startup/idle issues. The EEC computer knows when the EGR is supposed to be open and adjusts the injector pulsewidth to accommodate what should be a small amount of unburned oxygen. By opening it up to fresh air, all you've done is lean out the part throttle mixture.
@@marks93cobra THanks for that. So, what would be the end result of that, in regard to fuel consumption, or other effects? I'm basically not removing air from the lower intake, and still allowing extra air to be added to the upper intake/plenum, when the EGR allows it.
@@joeidaho5938 You're adding in more oxygen than the computer is assuming will be coming in via the EGR system...that air is unmetered so the computer is not expecting all that extra oxygen, so I believe what's happening is the 02 sensors would read lean and try to compensate by adding more fuel, so your mileage is probably suffering a bit. It also means your long term fuel trims will be trending richer than they should be. And that could explain your startup/idle issues...the long term trim will be applied at idle, so now your idle mixture is going to be WAY too rich, so you have add additional air by peddling it (i.e. cracking open the throttle body)....honestly, I think you'd be much better off just hooking it up, reset the computer and see how it starts behaving.
@@marks93cobra I thought the EGR valve would be monitoring that oxygen flow...so it would be about the same...except that the air would clearly be cooler. I tried to bend / weld a custom pipe but couldn't pull it off. The shape is quite different than what was on there with the stock lower intake and plenum. That's when I just said...fuck it...and just added the filter to the end of the pipe. Yes, my mileage has been suffering...but I thought that was attributed to installing a torque converter with too low a stall on my rebuilt e4od. What I should really do is fix one of these two issues...at a time....and see what the effect is on gas mileage. I rebuilt my own e4od...with upgrades...and also did a complete engine rebuild (short block done by a machine shop) with all new internals...except the crankshaft. I added a low end camshaft...and I should have compensated by adding a higher stall torque converter, rather than a low stall Hughes product. Will get around to fixing that this spring or early summer. I don't drive the truck much these days, as I use it mostly for contracting work...which I'm doing little of these days. Once I get everything in order, I'll drive it more...lol.
It would be nice if guys like you would learn nut and bolt sizes. The tool size is not the nut or bolt size. If the tool is a 1/2" then the nut or bolt is most likely a 5/16".
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
One of the best YT channels for 80-96 302 motors, period. Ever consider a dash removal vid to replace the vent / heat selection mechanisms? Or a video on running additional 12v power lines to support additional USB plugs / additional speaker wire tie-ins to the head unit?
Thanks Nick!🤙 I appreciate it.
I haven’t had any issues with the vent or heat selection mechanisms yet. The dash cluster with the selection knobs I think unbolts from the dash without having to remove the entire dash.
As for additional 12v power lines, my new cup holders have USB ports on the sides. So I will be doing that eventually. Definitely want to upgrade my speaker system to include an amp and sub👌
@@TheMinuteMasters May I also suggest adding USB / 12V outlets to the rear interior side panels? These would recess between the panel and bed wall and provide power hookup at the tailgate for tailgating / camping purposes.
Thanks again for the videos, your vacuum repair and steering wheel replacement videos are super useful for diagnosing and repairing issues with the factory cruise control. Looking forward to the next drop!
@@ibandageyou good suggestion! I thought about adding an actual outlet back there with average converter.
You’re welcome man! 🤙 I’m glad you enjoyed them.
Just bought an old 1995 ford and being a female these videos are saving me tons of money
Great to hear it!🤙
Being a male, these videos are saving me a lot of money too.
Come expecting an EGR episode, stayed for the spring change episode.
That’s a preview before the actual video releases.
Replaced mine and noticed the plug was also tight to place, glad it wasn't just me and that's how the aftermarket pieces are!
I already replaced mine a while back it’s Easy job take care buddy
5:10- had me cracking up haha loves your videos!! I comment on replacing the vacuum lines and I was curious how they’re doing? I’m thinking about ordering the same thing you did (same truck, F250 with 5.0 tho)
Thanks man!🤙 My vacuum lines seem to be doing well still. I haven’t noticed any issues.
Excellent job buddy
Thanks Francisco!🤙
Great video. Chances you have a video on how to fix a 95 OBS fuel tank issue unable to top up? Many forums say it could be the charcoal canister. Anyways, thank you for your content.
Thanks man!🤙 I sort of do. There are three things that need to be checked/replaced.
1) the gas cap acts as a vent and can go bad.
2) there’s a vent valve on top of the gas tank that can fail. I have a video on how to replace it.
3) the charcoal canister can clog and cause an issue as well.
Just picked up a 93 5.8L.. I’m getting codes 328 & 512, any idea on what it could be ? Should I just replace the EGR ? Any feedback on How should I go about it, new to all of this so your videos are helpful thanks in advance.
Nice! I don’t know those codes off hand so I’ll walk you through my typical process.
A) I Google the codes and the most likely fixes. I assume 328 is the EGR relate code. Depending on how many miles are on your truck it’s not a bad idea to replace the EGR. If you buy an EGR from Amazon, they’re about half the cost of a parts store. EGR codes can also be triggered by degrading vacuum lines. So it’s probably worth doing a vacuum check if your engine or just out of preventive maintenance replacing all of the existing vacuum lines. I have a full video on that.
Hi, my truck threw the codes 121, 334 & 212
I'm gonna replace the EGR does it need to be Motorcraft? The autozone work fine? Thanks for the videos 👋
I don’t think it has to be Motorcraft brand. I ordered mine on Amazon.
What was the issue that leads you to change the EGR? My truck has gray smoke that smells like too much fuel I don't know if change this valve will help
I was getting a code 334 and I was slightly suspicious of my EGR valve sticking open.
If you are getting gray smoke in smelling fuel, it could be that you aren’t having a complete Byrne. I would check to make sure your ignition system is strong and functioning properly. I would also check timing.
Is any of this stuff the same for 5.8L? I have a 95 f150 with the 5.8 and am hoping it crosses over
A good portion of this stuff will be similar.
I got 95 F150 eddie bower edition and the valve is different and the sensor and I can’t find them anywhere, any clue, code 335 appears 😢
Like you can’t find the part online?
@@TheMinuteMasters I found the valve but I don’t know where is the sensor located, because is not the one on the top one ,, this valve doesn’t go on the top
Thoughts on an EGR delete?
I would keep your EGR. I feel like the only people that benefit with EGR deletes our diesel trucks.
A smog delete on a gas truck seems to have more benefits if you use an idler pulley and the factory belt.
Hey minute master, I have a question. I have a ford f150 and it is having problems. When I first take off it feels like it stutters at first like a quick loss of power but when I get up to about 45 mph it jerks down and the rpm s go up and then stop but it does this off and on the whole ride and my engine light is not on. Any tips? Anything would be appreciated thanks.
Hi, kind of sounds like a transmission issue but before we get ahead of ourselves, I would read the codes on your truck. I know the check engine light isn’t on, but sometimes codes can be triggered and the CEL will stay off.
When was the last time your truck had an ignition tune up?
@TheMinuteMasters I just changed the plugs and wires last week it runs a little better but still didn't fix the issue and I noticed the vacuum line that is connected to my ac was dry rotten in half fixed that but still didn't fix it
I was kind of thinking the transmission but I don't understand why when I takeoff it has that sputter that's why I was thinking it might not be the transmission but idk. You think it could be the fuel filter or EGR valve?
For now I'm going to take it to my nearest auto zone and get it hooked up to computer and see can I get some reads on some codes
@@williamgoodman7088 there are a lot of things that could cause issues. The key is a really precise process of illumination. Also, your local auto parts store won’t be able to read OBD1 codes. A mechanic shop might.
My truck is acting up it turns on but the I have to hold the gas peddle down after releasing the gas pedal the truck turns off what could it be?
I would first check your codes to make sure all sensors are working.
However, if you are holding the gas down, it could be fuel related. Change your fuel filter and test the pressure of your fuel pump via the inlet on the fuel rail.
What size are the screws on the top
I believe my 1/4” drive did the trick.
hey guys i really need help, at 0:43, theres that little black cap sits on top of the two intake hoses. My truck is missing that, and i dont know what its called!
The one that covers the throttle body?
@@TheMinuteMasters yea I found out what it was
@@TheMinuteMasters a guy wants like 80 for the throttle body cover and that inline 6 filter box I take
How do i replace the egr tube at the bottom?
I have a full video on that in one of my playlists.
I replaced mine when I rebuilt my engine. However, I removed the pipe to the lower manifold (put a plug in the lower manifold)....and just ran the pipe off to the side, with a filter on the end. So, essentially, I'm no longer taking exhaust out of the lower manifold. I'm just taking fresh air that the EGR injects into the plenum. Hasn't changed anything, I think. The only possible effect is that when the outside air is cold in winter, the engine doesn't want to go through the whole warmup phase. It wants to stall a little while after I start the engine (not idle properly), so I just have to hold my foot on the gas for about a minute...and then the engine idles properly after that. I put the edelbrock truck manifold on my truck....and I basically would have had to customize an egr pipe to make it work, so I said...fuck it...and just ran the pipe to a filter. This change does not produce a code, to be clear.
That’s good to know Joe! I like that Edelbrock intake plenum a lot.
I don’t advise removing the EGR system because it throws a code and turns the CEL on.
The EGR is only activated at part throttle, it shouldn't have any affect on your startup/idle issues. The EEC computer knows when the EGR is supposed to be open and adjusts the injector pulsewidth to accommodate what should be a small amount of unburned oxygen. By opening it up to fresh air, all you've done is lean out the part throttle mixture.
@@marks93cobra THanks for that. So, what would be the end result of that, in regard to fuel consumption, or other effects? I'm basically not removing air from the lower intake, and still allowing extra air to be added to the upper intake/plenum, when the EGR allows it.
@@joeidaho5938 You're adding in more oxygen than the computer is assuming will be coming in via the EGR system...that air is unmetered so the computer is not expecting all that extra oxygen, so I believe what's happening is the 02 sensors would read lean and try to compensate by adding more fuel, so your mileage is probably suffering a bit. It also means your long term fuel trims will be trending richer than they should be. And that could explain your startup/idle issues...the long term trim will be applied at idle, so now your idle mixture is going to be WAY too rich, so you have add additional air by peddling it (i.e. cracking open the throttle body)....honestly, I think you'd be much better off just hooking it up, reset the computer and see how it starts behaving.
@@marks93cobra I thought the EGR valve would be monitoring that oxygen flow...so it would be about the same...except that the air would clearly be cooler. I tried to bend / weld a custom pipe but couldn't pull it off. The shape is quite different than what was on there with the stock lower intake and plenum. That's when I just said...fuck it...and just added the filter to the end of the pipe. Yes, my mileage has been suffering...but I thought that was attributed to installing a torque converter with too low a stall on my rebuilt e4od. What I should really do is fix one of these two issues...at a time....and see what the effect is on gas mileage. I rebuilt my own e4od...with upgrades...and also did a complete engine rebuild (short block done by a machine shop) with all new internals...except the crankshaft. I added a low end camshaft...and I should have compensated by adding a higher stall torque converter, rather than a low stall Hughes product. Will get around to fixing that this spring or early summer. I don't drive the truck much these days, as I use it mostly for contracting work...which I'm doing little of these days. Once I get everything in order, I'll drive it more...lol.
It would be nice if guys like you would learn nut and bolt sizes. The tool size is not the nut or bolt size. If the tool is a 1/2" then the nut or bolt is most likely a 5/16".
So are you saying you don’t use a 1/2” socket to remove a 1/2” bolt??
@@TheMinuteMasters
A half inch socket is not going to fit the head of a half inch bolt.
Geezus, take a trip to the hardware store.