Great video of the process. I have done this with all three of our OBS trucks. The only suggestion I would add is to install the valve a bit closer to the engine to increase the distance between the heater core and the valve to further minimize the amount of convected heat transferred to the core and plenum. Regarding the factory white vacuum line, those tend to deteriorate with age. ON a couple of trucks, I have removed the wiring harness in which this line follows the wiring through the firewall and rebuilt it by replacing the white plastic line with good quality rubber line and then reinstalled the repaired harness.
Thanks Don! Very good suggestion on the placement of that valve. I chose mine out of convenience, but I like your theory. As for the white fact you mine, I think that’s an excellent idea to trace it back and replace it along its entire length.
How does this effect the heater in the winter time? Do you need to do anything different to make the heater work. Will this work on a 92 f150 as well and where did you get T for the vacuum line?
My f150 still has ice cold a/c. I've owned mine for 22 years. It was 5 years old when I bought it back in 2000. I've kept the millage down only has 127 thousand miles.
@@TheMinuteMasters awesome. And love your truck btw. I have a 1995 f150 extended cab short baled and it's the same color as yours. I love it. I go to your videos for a lot of stuff. I just had to replace and clean some injectors today and your video with the intake removel helped me a lot.
Now that you've had it installed for a while, have you noticed any issues with heat? Or improvements with a/c that are noticeable? I just found your video and am now a subscriber. These videos help with my 96 Bronco.
Good question David! AC has been better probably not a monumental difference but it all adds up. No issues with heat either and temperatures have dipped to -17° F here in Iowa. Nice! Thank you! I appreciate it!🤙 Since you have a Bronco, you’ll definitely like the products from Desolate Motorsports.
These bypass valves are nothing new, they were installed from the factory particularly on Rangers and Explorers from 1994 onward mainly due to the switch to R134a. If I had to guess, the other reason had to do with the cramped space in the engine compartment for heat to escape. My 94 Explorer has one with amazing heat during the winter.
How does this effect the heater in the winter time? Do you need to do anything different to make the heater work. Will this work on a 92 f150 as well and where did you get T for the vacuum line?
Why not just put a cutoff valve in the heater hose? Why don’t they come that way from the factory? All old cars did, when you switched from heat to cool it closed off the heater core valve.
The only problem you run into with this is the coolant being trapped in the core all summer causing excessive corrosion. they work great when the coolant is clean and fresh, but old rusty brown block water sitting in the heater core isnt good. There is a reason that explorers and rangers have bad heater cores all the time.
The coolant shouldnt be trapped all summer, this only works on MAX ac when the switch sends vacuum to the fresh air blend door, closing it to recirculate interior air. On any other setting, Norm Ac/Vent/ Off/ floor/mix/ def the valve opens back up for regular flow.
Did you really think the ac was inadequate? Or are you out of sub 1000 dollar upgrades for the truck. My truck isn’t exactly “sealed” and I think the ac is more than enough to keep that little cab cooler than I want on a sunny 85 day
@@TheMinuteMasters 1990 f150. I know you have to obviously change the fittings on the high and low pressure lines- but I have also read conflicting statements online about the other components that need to be replaced.
@@Legacyyyyyyyyyyyyyy You definitely have some good questions. I thought the same as you and then vacuum the system of the r12 and then introduce the r134a. I guess I’ll have to check.
@@Legacyyyyyyyyyyyyyy I did it on my 93 f150 I just changed fittings and put a new compressor and orifice tube then flushed out all the lines with an ac cleaner then assemble back vaccuum the system and charge with freon
What was the temp outside at the time? I had the ac fixed in my 95 and it gets to 40 out of the vents anytime max ac is on and and the truck is moving. The only time I see the temps go up is if I'm sitting in Texas traffic and it gets to about 50
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah a new compressor and condenser will do that for ya. One thing is if that vacuum line is broken and that little actuator in the corner of the engine bay doesn't work you can forget about cool air even when moving. It's that little vacuum line that got me even looking into things like this because I was trying to figure out why my new ac sucked.
Great job Steve I love your videos I just found you today... I Have a 1996 F150XLT full wheel drive with a 5.8 in it has 115,000 miles on it. I will watching the rest of your videos there's lots to learn!😂
When I got my truck the hoses where already cut from the heater core and it just circulates the coolant. I’m gonna reinstall the A/C in my truck and I’m gonna get this installed! 👍
Stevy, hey man. I've seen lots of your Video s but I'm missing something. Can you help me on how to instal a new tailgate torsion bar, cannot find any useful information
@@TheMinuteMasters it's a kind of confusing, taje of the tailgate and try to put it in or try to get it in as it's stil attached to the body. Nothing on the internet so I thought you stripped almost all parts of your car so many some tip. We'll om just going to try abdcwiil see how it ends, keep on posting buddy, always nice to see how you fix things
Hey man quick question. So my heat works but it’s not great if that makes sense like I’m pretty sure the fan motor is going out but I’m not 100% sure. Any ideas?
I would love too! Honestly, the best method is to remove them and send them to a place where they professionally clean them. Otherwise, buying a whole new set is the other option.
Hi Nick! That’s tough to say. I haven’t looked under the hood of an late 80s F150 in a little bit. If you have those two heater core hoses I’m sure it will work. Hard to say if it made a huge difference but in the video you can definitely tell the temperature came down a few degrees. In my opinion every little bit helps. This may not be the major mod that cools everything down but a few AC mods will do the trick.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks Steve, it all looks the same under my hood as yours. I'll see what happens come the spring if I'm going to do it. Thank you for getting back to me, have a good day
Thanks man!🤙 It’s an easy mod for sure. That sucks. I have two videos about how to replace the door handle mechanism. It might give you a closer look at the cable.
@@stefanie_nicolee4457 any tips or video on how to do it? I actually haven't done it yet, just keep putting it off lol it's been 5 years and I keep having to manually roll the window down to open the door from the outside
You guys do know if the truck needed this they would of put one the truck in the first place. The reason your a/c isnt cooled is becuase your ac need work or you have a problem wirh the blend door not closing or opening.
The argument could be made that the engineers had it all figured out. Having work with plenty of engineers and architects, they definitely miss things and they’re far from perfect. Plus cost is always a factor.
Hey there, I just want to say that I really appreciate your videos. I actually have the exact same truck as you except mine is red (95 F150 XL 302 2wd). It was my first truck and it's still in great condition. I have had it parked for several years, however. Recently I decided to pull it back out and start a restore. It has 170,000 miles and leaked oil really bad. It started overheating and I found a rotted gasket behind the timing cover. In an attempt to just do a complete overhaul, I pulled the engine and the transmission. I have torn down the engine completely and plan on taking it to the machine shop this week to have it bored out. I have been very specific in labeling bolts and the order that they go back (threading the bolts in cardboard boxes). I will say that I'm a little nervous in connecting all of the vacuum lines and wires/harnesses when I go to drop it back in. All in all, our truck is a great and is a great project for a DIYer. I've had some mild experience through the years working on cars, but no training or anything. I'm just taking my time, labeling things, and just taking lots of pictures.
Nice Brandon! 🤙 Then all my videos will work perfectly for you. That’s the way to do it. Get the engine rebuilt properly and you will have a good running truck for a long time. The cardboard trick is the best! I do have a video about the vacuum lines. So if you are feeling unsure about hooking everything back up, you can check it out. Anyhow, you’ve got the right idea Brandon. Just take your time, spend the money, and get your truck looking and running great! Thanks for watching too!🤙
Hi Stevie my 92 f150 I replace resister for blower motor and now when truck is running I turn on blower motor which is working at all speeds but when I turn switch to vent the charge amp gage drops down under half charge do I have a an overdraw from blower motor or the dash heater control panel .
The heater core is inside the cab, even with heat door closed the heat off of it is still warming the cab air. With the bypass installed the heater core does not get hot and radiate heat into the cab.
@@randallcarney1216 that makes sense! I'm not relying on my heater core for cooling, I just didn't understand how bypassing it would help the A/C. Now after getting my head wrapped around it I will probably do it as I live in Phoenix and any A/C upgrade is welcome lol.
I really like your science on this a lot of Toyota's I use to work on had those valves, with AC and or without AC. It should make a difference. Manufactures did not install them cause they don't work. Thank you for the video and the part number ref. Old 1960's Mustangs are the same way and would benefit from that valve. : )
@@TheMinuteMasters sorry I meant condenser. It’s been a long day. I have an f150 1997. I bought a silver condenser and painted it with radiator black paint. There are Vids all over that prove the effectiveness of black paint. The thing cools really well and I live in Houston. The fan is the old chug chug non electric. I do like the idea of removing heat from the core. Seems kind of silly not to by default.
@@georgewhyte6248 No problem man🤙 I kind of figured that’s what you meant. I just had to be sure. Yeah it’s such a cheap simple part. I don’t know why Ford wouldn’t install from the factory.
Hey stevie i’m currently rebuilding my 96 f150 i just finished painting the rear of the frame and did all new shackles, 2in lifted leaf springs, shock mounts and i’m about to start the front with new buckets, radius arms, coils, shocks and your videos have help immensely thank you so much
Hi Matt! Nice! Good year! Love it! I can’t wait to rebuild the whole suspension on my truck. My rear leaf springs are original and are toast. The Moog coil springs up front are terrible.
looks like a mega pcv valve...lol. Always nice to watch your vids. I got no a/c....but still interesting. I do the "roll down the windows" a/c...lol. Hey, did you ever add new shocks on your truck? I'm thinking either later this fall...or next spring...that I'll be doing the pivot bushings, and at the same time I'll install new springs and shocks. Do it all at the same time to save some effort.
Hi Joe! For some reason this comment was held back as spam by UA-cam. Anyhow, yes it does look like a mega PCV valve. lol I have working AC and I still like the "roll down ac" when weather permits. I did replace my shocks all around. I started off with KYB Gas A Just. They are a monotube shock. I thought they were some what harsh (looking back it was the front coil springs). So I swapped the from set for Bilsteins which are fantastic. I blew the driver's side Bilstein on a pot hole in Pennsylvania and cracked the frame at the same time. I bough another Bilstein and blew it (because I didn't realize the frame was cracked.) I decided to save money, So I installed a Monroe cheapy shock on the driver's side. So, I have three different brands of shock on my truck and two different designs (monotube and twin tube). lol I recommend doing everything at once and knock it out.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks, Stevie. Ya, cracking the frame is pretty harsh. Must have been a hell of a hit. Can't imagine that happening. Ya...three different types of shocks is pretty wild. I'm thinking of going with the Bilsteins all around. Gonna buy from Summit, as Rockauto seems inconsistent with what they are stocking. Want a decent firm shock....but not overly stiff. My current ones must be pretty ancient...lol.
@@joeidaho5938 Oh it was Joe! It was “the” mother of all potholes I hit going 60 mph on a rap getting on the interstate. My truck immediately went into the death wobbly until I slowed down to 20 mph. My truck was drivable but if I hit any kind of minor bump or pothole on the driver side, it would death wobble. Yeah! I don’t recommend having three different types of shocks on a truck. It definitely makes for a Squirrley ride and weird handling. Lol So Bilstien is stiff but the valving is much better than the KYB monotube shock.
@@TheMinuteMasters That's brutal. Would scare the shit out of me, in regard to the health of my truck. The trauma of loving a truck, eh? lol Thanks for the response, Stevie.
@@joeidaho5938 Oh it scared me too and I was headed to the airport. So I could even do anything about it for a while. Yup! Definitely trauma for sure! You’re welcome Joe! I appreciate the comments!🤙
Are you using an all aluminum radiator ? How.many rows ? Great videos ,BTW. I'll check your Playlist- have you done the heavy duty headlight wiring upgrade?
My radiator is the stock radiator. So probably 1 to 2 rows. Thanks man!🤙 So, I have two videos about headlights. I have a video about how to wire HID bulbs into the stock headlight housings. I have a video demonstrating why LED bulbs don’t work in stock reflector headlight housings. I’m holding to have a video about how to install projector headlights soon.
Thank you for the video. Just charged my AC yesterday but can only get the vent temp down to 65 degrees. Actuators are working with new vac pump. I'm hoping this drops the temps down!
Recently picked up a really straight 96 F150 was so excited for it then I found out very fast it needs head gaskets so that sucked mayyyybbbeee I’ll see a head gasket replacement on here soon haha awesome videos though really helpful for future fixes after I do the head gaskets
Nice! Good year! Honestly man, I’d take a straight no rust f150 with a blown engine or transmission any day. Mechanical stuff is simple and quick to replace. Paint and body work takes time and money.
@@TheMinuteMasters haha yes I’ve fallen quickly in love it was supposed to be something to use till I fix my other truck but I think I’m gonna fix this one first now instead
@@traviskantz2368 I know the feeling Travis! These trucks have their charm for sure. Plus used trucks are selling at all time high prices. I could do a frame off restoration of 2-3 of these trucks before I’d reach the price tag of a newer year truck.
@@TheMinuteMasters exactly why I don’t mind spending so much got an 01 and the 96 with 200k on both but they’re fairly solid the 96 is beautiful in the places it should be it’s got some spot rust but underneath is beautiful I’ll drop a brand new block in if I have to
Great video, quick question: I've noticed that actuator on the passenger side of my truck is has the vacuum line snipped at the actuator, I want to get that reconnect, where does it run to?
Thanks man!🤙 good question. It’s hard to explain but if you want a good visual reference, I have a video that shows you how to replace all of your vacuum ones. I cover that vacuum line specifically.
@@TheMinuteMasters sounds good man. I remember seeing that video on your channel. I'll definitely dive into it. I know you get this alot but your channel has been invaluable, just got a 93 f150 and I've been binge watching your channel since getting it. Criminally underrated content dude. Thank you.
@@savage_the_wild You’ll definitely get a lot out of that video. Vacuum leaks are a huge issue with these trucks. Thank you man! 🤙I really appreciate it! I’m glad you think so. I’m always trying to get my channel out to the public.
Hey man do you have an added electric fan? Or still just running on the mechanical one only? When i added an electric fan as well, it was amazing. It feels like how cold it gets when your running down the highway. I didnt know about this bypass valve, ill have to try it out.
I don’t but I’ve heard it’s amazing! Did you add a pusher Flex lite type of fab onto the condenser? Actually, I never heard of the bypass valve either until somebody commented about it.
Sorry for the late response. I work evening shifts. So to start i have an 85 f150 with a 300 6. It has a dealer installed a/c system. Its not that much different but very similar. Originally when the truck was carbureted, i had a 16 inch generic pusher mounted to the condensor towards the driverside. Just wired in a 40 amp relay and fuse. The power signal spliced off of the power to the compressor clutch. The 300 mechanical fan actually sits offset to the passenger side because of the water pump location which is why i mounted more to the driverside. After i converted the truck to a holley sniper efi, i did away with mechanical fan and pusher all together and now run purely electric pullers. They are powered on by the sniper efi itself. The fans themselves i got off of jeffs bronco graveyard. They have a ton off options for whatever your looking to do. They also have low profile pushers that will fit in between the condensor and core support. Long story short, the 1 electric pusher worked great to give it the cfm needed at idle for colder a/c. I only went with the dual puller route to "clean" everything up and the fact that the sniper system can control it.
Check out jeffs bronco graveyard and see what you want to do. The ones i currently have now are the dual puller "27" fans. You can buy a bracket kit for it, or just make your own. Its all up to you what you want to do. Id highly recommend anothet fan though if you want colder a/c without the highway or having to rev at idle lmao.
Hey stevie great videos as always. doing this install might be little different on my 96 f150 since my truck has OBD2 first year for it and your truck is mass air.
@@TheMinuteMasters If you mean the mass air sensor that's in the intake yes there is one it tells the computer how air is coming is coming into the intake.
One certain years, yes. My truck is a 1995 with the AODE/4r70w. I swapped in an LED 3rd brake light. Apparently, LEDs can cause shifting issues too. So far, I haven’t had any issues.
@@TheMinuteMasters mines a 94 I have the same transmission. Occasionally when I enter the highway the shift to 4th be kinda hard . My 3rd brake light are burnt. Should I replace them . Also can you do a video on replacing your heater core
@@SC-dt4ij Ok, definitely replace the burnt 3rd brake light bulbs and see what happens. So the AODE transmission doesn’t have a true 4th gear. 4th gear is the overdrive band. Aftermarket shift kits make shifting into the OD band firmer to reduce wear on the OD band. Your new transmission could have a shift kit in it.
Do you think it can make a drastic change cooling wise, if u can just bypass the heater core? Not having heat working in exchange having colder ac? I live down south, winter is nothing over here
So this valve does bypass the heater core. Now if you’re talking about a more permanent bypassing of the heater core you probably could do that using a couple of elbows or just a 90° elbow and two hose clamps to complete a closed loop.
@@TheMinuteMasters well if you bypass the heater core you dont have heat coming in to use with defrost also bypassing the heatercore could make the coolant run warmer cuz it has less area to travel through and that space of the evaporator /heater core has air move across it to help cool off the coolant . hence how it heats the cab, by air blowing across it with hot coolant warming the air into the vents/cab. also considering this ac system uses vacuum lines for its functions depends on what vacuum supply you use could effect the functions of the ac system
@@jaywebb0113 that’s why I recommend the valve because at least you still have the option of letting the heater core warm up for winter use. Newer Ford vehicles use this valve and they all hook it up to the one blend door vacuum line. So I’m assuming Ford has already done the research on this particular modification.
@@dilanbashaw4235 Electric radiator fans eliminate the parasitic hp lose usually caused by the mechanical radiator fan. I actually have a Dyno test on this. Although I didn’t install electric fans for the test. You should check out that video.
@@TheMinuteMasters I dunno. I think it was the closing one. But then I looked at all the old ones, and it seemed the same. I thought there were words on it before.
@@TheMinuteMasters I was just asking cause I can't find the part anywhere for the 03 so I think I'm gonna grab that one and fab it but this thing doesn't permanently cut off the heater core right like if I wanted I could still have heat by switching it?
@@playboymusicmpr3108 Nope you will and can have heat function depending on how you set it up. The vacuum line that controls the one in the video is hooked up to the Max AC. When I select a max AC it will cut off the flow of coolant. However the moment I switch to regular AC or heat it will open up and let the coolant flow. If you can’t find a vacuum line that will do this for you I’ve seen guys just put a valve in there and they open and close it manually depending on the time of year.
@@playboymusicmpr3108 No problem man! Yup I feel the same way about mine. I think it could be 10 degrees colder but maybe I’m being picky when it’s 100° F outside. Lol
I forgot to leave a comment on this video about this but if you really want to get the best A/C possible on your truck it would pay to put some new insulation on that low-pressure hose that runs across the back of the engine bay in the plastic hangars attached to the cowl. Home depot sells foam insulation for copper pipes for cheap, pick some of it up and take the A/C line out of the hangars and cut the old flaky insulation off and install the new stuff over it. I would go from where the metal crimp is from the passenger side HVAC box all the way to the other crimp on the line right before the A/C compressor. Great video as always, but thought I could contribute my two cents. Also, do you have any social media for the channel? some small updates on your project truck would be really cool!
That’s a great idea! They do that for residential and commercial HVAC lines. I’ll add that to my list. I sure do! I have an Instagram @theminutmasters and a TikTok. @minutemasters_ytc
That vacuum actuator is engaged whenever you use a setting beside defrost (vent/floor/etc). Doesn't this bypass cause you to lose heat on those other settings? I don't see how this only applies to A/C. Seems like you would only get cabin heat with defrost.
@@TheMinuteMasters that valve must be calibrated to open with the same max vacuum pressure then. The lower pressure probably doesn't move it. If you do lose heat, sounds like there may be one more spot to check. Thanks. Cool tip
@@TheMinuteMasters I was thinking about this more. Do you think you could flip the valve and set it up to only circulate into the heater core when there is a call for heat, making all of the A/C modes colder? Do you know if there is a vacuum hose for the cold/hot blend door? If there is, you may be able to use that one instead of the vent actuator hose.
@@jasont6849 That sounds possible. I just don’t know what vacuum line that would be. It would definitely be worth a try because that would be pretty cool.
@@sai_kyt So it doesn’t shift or it slams into gear? Is it an OEM transmission, original that’s rebuilt or an aftermarket trans? Also, check your third brake light and see that all the bulbs work. Believe it or not, a bad bulb can causes issues with automatic transmissions.
A video on troubleshooting and repairing/replacing the cheap plastic hvac control panel would help immensely. Seems like a major weak point in this era of Fords
Great video of the process. I have done this with all three of our OBS trucks. The only suggestion I would add is to install the valve a bit closer to the engine to increase the distance between the heater core and the valve to further minimize the amount of convected heat transferred to the core and plenum. Regarding the factory white vacuum line, those tend to deteriorate with age. ON a couple of trucks, I have removed the wiring harness in which this line follows the wiring through the firewall and rebuilt it by replacing the white plastic line with good quality rubber line and then reinstalled the repaired harness.
Thanks Don! Very good suggestion on the placement of that valve. I chose mine out of convenience, but I like your theory. As for the white fact you mine, I think that’s an excellent idea to trace it back and replace it along its entire length.
I just put this on my 94 and man i tell you. You can feel the difference between reg ac and max. Very good mod
Pretty sure this would work exactly the same on an OBS F250/350... can anyone confirm?
If you have two heater core coolant hose entering your cab like the video, you can do this mod.🤙
Can confirm this!
@@clahG00ts Cool! (pun fully intended) Thanks!
How does this effect the heater in the winter time? Do you need to do anything different to make the heater work. Will this work on a 92 f150 as well and where did you get T for the vacuum line?
My f150 still has ice cold a/c. I've owned mine for 22 years. It was 5 years old when I bought it back in 2000. I've kept the millage down only has 127 thousand miles.
That’s awesome Kyle! A lot of us wish we had our trucks that long.
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah. It's a 95 short bed standard cab 4x4 with the 5.0 it's red and it's an xlt. It's my favorite generation of ford truck.
@@kylestivers4606 Damn! That’s a nice combo! I’m with ya Kyle! These are good looking trucks, they are fairly reliable, and can take a beating.
10:24 Hi, and thanks for your improvement tips, I meant to ask, where can I get a seat like yours for my '94 Ford f150 4.9 XL?
That’s the stock bench seat. I had reupholstered by local shop.
Appreciate your videos, thanks
Do u need any rims I have some for sale a couple different kinds
I would like rims but I’m saving up for a set of 17” Method Racing NV 305s.
@@TheMinuteMasters awesome. And love your truck btw. I have a 1995 f150 extended cab short baled and it's the same color as yours. I love it. I go to your videos for a lot of stuff. I just had to replace and clean some injectors today and your video with the intake removel helped me a lot.
What could be the problem on a 93 f150x, when the A/C stalls to blow cold air right away?
Your evaporator core could be dirty, Freon could need to be charged, and sometimes it takes time.
Now that you've had it installed for a while, have you noticed any issues with heat? Or improvements with a/c that are noticeable? I just found your video and am now a subscriber. These videos help with my 96 Bronco.
Good question David! AC has been better probably not a monumental difference but it all adds up. No issues with heat either and temperatures have dipped to -17° F here in Iowa.
Nice! Thank you! I appreciate it!🤙 Since you have a Bronco, you’ll definitely like the products from Desolate Motorsports.
These bypass valves are nothing new, they were installed from the factory particularly on Rangers and Explorers from 1994 onward mainly due to the switch to R134a. If I had to guess, the other reason had to do with the cramped space in the engine compartment for heat to escape. My 94 Explorer has one with amazing heat during the winter.
How does this effect the heater in the winter time? Do you need to do anything different to make the heater work. Will this work on a 92 f150 as well and where did you get T for the vacuum line?
The heater worked great! No complaints there.
The T is a stander vacuum T that comes in a packet at any auto parts store.
Why not just put a cutoff valve in the heater hose? Why don’t they come that way from the factory? All old cars did, when you switched from heat to cool it closed off the heater core valve.
This essentially operates the same way. Why Ford didn’t do it from the factory, I don’t know.
Where to get this product
I think I bought it off amazon.
Just got a 95 short bed, and im going through all your videos because they help alot
Nice man!🤙 Good year too. Thank you for watching!
The only problem you run into with this is the coolant being trapped in the core all summer causing excessive corrosion. they work great when the coolant is clean and fresh, but old rusty brown block water sitting in the heater core isnt good. There is a reason that explorers and rangers have bad heater cores all the time.
I wasn’t aware the heater cores fail on rangers and explorers frequently. I’ll have to keep an eye on that.
The coolant shouldnt be trapped all summer, this only works on MAX ac when the switch sends vacuum to the fresh air blend door, closing it to recirculate interior air.
On any other setting, Norm Ac/Vent/ Off/ floor/mix/ def the valve opens back up for regular flow.
My 95 makes a clicking noise when I turn on ac is that normal? Plus it blows hot air
Where does the clicking noise come from?
Did you really think the ac was inadequate? Or are you out of sub 1000 dollar upgrades for the truck. My truck isn’t exactly “sealed” and I think the ac is more than enough to keep that little cab cooler than I want on a sunny 85 day
I need cold AC on +100° days in the summer which is rarely frequent.
if you could do a video on r12 to r134a conversion that would be amazing
I still wish I had my 86 300zx because it still needed to be converted over to r134a. What year truck do you have?
@@TheMinuteMasters 1990 f150. I know you have to obviously change the fittings on the high and low pressure lines- but I have also read conflicting statements online about the other components that need to be replaced.
@@Legacyyyyyyyyyyyyyy You definitely have some good questions. I thought the same as you and then vacuum the system of the r12 and then introduce the r134a. I guess I’ll have to check.
@@Legacyyyyyyyyyyyyyy I did it on my 93 f150 I just changed fittings and put a new compressor and orifice tube then flushed out all the lines with an ac cleaner then assemble back vaccuum the system and charge with freon
I used ebay envirosafe r12 substitute and it has worked great all summer
Once I replace my AC pump I’ll definitely look at doing this
What was the temp outside at the time? I had the ac fixed in my 95 and it gets to 40 out of the vents anytime max ac is on and and the truck is moving. The only time I see the temps go up is if I'm sitting in Texas traffic and it gets to about 50
I can’t remember the ambient temperature outside. However, if you’re giving 40°F driving and 50° sitting, I’d say that’s pretty good.
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah a new compressor and condenser will do that for ya. One thing is if that vacuum line is broken and that little actuator in the corner of the engine bay doesn't work you can forget about cool air even when moving. It's that little vacuum line that got me even looking into things like this because I was trying to figure out why my new ac sucked.
Great job Steve I love your videos I just found you today... I Have a 1996 F150XLT full wheel drive with a 5.8 in it has 115,000 miles on it. I will watching the rest of your videos there's lots to learn!😂
Thanks Robby! I appreciate it! Nice! You’ll joining at a great time because I’ll have more 4x4 content for your truck. (I’m swapping from 2wd to 4wd).
the f150 channel I've been searching for. great info! I've got a 1990 150 w/302.
Thanks Adrian!🤙 I’m glad you like my content. Nice! The 302 f150s are so much fun, have decent power, and easy to work on.
My 96 Ford will crank but not start. Any ideas?
Check your fuel pressure and make sure you are getting spark at the plugs.
When I got my truck the hoses where already cut from the heater core and it just circulates the coolant. I’m gonna reinstall the A/C in my truck and I’m gonna get this installed! 👍
Really? This will help with heat in the winter.
Stevy, hey man. I've seen lots of your
Video s but I'm missing something. Can you help me on how to instal a new tailgate torsion bar, cannot find any useful information
Are you referring to the torsion bar that helps close the tailgate and keeps it from slamming open? If so, I have no experience with those.
@@TheMinuteMasters it's a kind of confusing, taje of the tailgate and try to put it in or try to get it in as it's stil attached to the body. Nothing on the internet so I thought you stripped almost all parts of your car so many some tip. We'll om just going to try abdcwiil see how it ends, keep on posting buddy, always nice to see how you fix things
Good stuff man, another mod I didn't know existed lol. Thanks for sharing. 🤟
Thanks man!🤙 Well I’ll keep them coming!
lmao... you guys with your gloves...
A) you know most of the fluids and chemicals using automotive mechanics or carcinogens. B) it makes clean up faster.
Saw a notification from Minute Masters, INSTANTLY clicked.
Love it! Thanks man!🤙
What would cause my air not to change from defrost to vent? It works for the floor but still blows out of the defrost vents
It’s usually a vacuum leak. I had a vacuum leak at the line that feeds the blend door and the only setting that worked was defrost.
@@TheMinuteMasters Would it just be easier to just replace all the vacuum lines and go from their?
@@Ryan-os1lt Definitely!
@@TheMinuteMasters awesome right now I’m working on getting the transmission out and getting a junkyard one put back in.
Hey man quick question. So my heat works but it’s not great if that makes sense like I’m pretty sure the fan motor is going out but I’m not 100% sure. Any ideas?
Great video but heads up don't watch if you are high 😂
Thanks man!🤙
Hahahahaha
do they make these for the 10th gen f150 years (2001)
I’m not sure, but I had to get this one from a Ford Explorer. You could do the same.
I suspect 10th gen had these from the factory
Hey man, Can you make a video on how to clean the fuel injectors
I would love too! Honestly, the best method is to remove them and send them to a place where they professionally clean them. Otherwise, buying a whole new set is the other option.
Hello!!! Ford are you taking notes? especially the bed access door!!! Thanks Stevie, for helping take out the many kinks. Sooo much common sense 😍
Hahaha! Say it louder for those in the back! lol
You are most welcome man!🤙
Still available on Amazon, Was 13 now 12 left 6/11/24 hahaha. Thanks from the humid hot "Hurricane State" Fl
Steve, do you know if this mod would work for an 87' f150. And how has it worked out for you. Was it worth it
Hi Nick! That’s tough to say. I haven’t looked under the hood of an late 80s F150 in a little bit. If you have those two heater core hoses I’m sure it will work. Hard to say if it made a huge difference but in the video you can definitely tell the temperature came down a few degrees. In my opinion every little bit helps. This may not be the major mod that cools everything down but a few AC mods will do the trick.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks Steve, it all looks the same under my hood as yours. I'll see what happens come the spring if I'm going to do it. Thank you for getting back to me, have a good day
@@nickpanhead7209 You’re welcome Nick!🤙 Perfect! You should be able to do this mod. No problem Nick! Thanks for watching and your have a good day too!
Nice video! I think I'll try this. First priority is replacing the door handle cable that snapped 😬
He has more than one video on that, too. ;)
Thanks man!🤙 It’s an easy mod for sure. That sucks. I have two videos about how to replace the door handle mechanism. It might give you a closer look at the cable.
@@TheMinuteMasters I'll check them both out! Thank you!
Lol we’ve had to replace ours 3 times , I keep snapping it 🫢
@@stefanie_nicolee4457 any tips or video on how to do it? I actually haven't done it yet, just keep putting it off lol it's been 5 years and I keep having to manually roll the window down to open the door from the outside
You guys do know if the truck needed this they would of put one the truck in the first place. The reason your a/c isnt cooled is becuase your ac need work or you have a problem wirh the blend door not closing or opening.
The argument could be made that the engineers had it all figured out. Having work with plenty of engineers and architects, they definitely miss things and they’re far from perfect. Plus cost is always a factor.
Hey there, I just want to say that I really appreciate your videos. I actually have the exact same truck as you except mine is red (95 F150 XL 302 2wd). It was my first truck and it's still in great condition. I have had it parked for several years, however. Recently I decided to pull it back out and start a restore. It has 170,000 miles and leaked oil really bad. It started overheating and I found a rotted gasket behind the timing cover. In an attempt to just do a complete overhaul, I pulled the engine and the transmission. I have torn down the engine completely and plan on taking it to the machine shop this week to have it bored out. I have been very specific in labeling bolts and the order that they go back (threading the bolts in cardboard boxes). I will say that I'm a little nervous in connecting all of the vacuum lines and wires/harnesses when I go to drop it back in. All in all, our truck is a great and is a great project for a DIYer. I've had some mild experience through the years working on cars, but no training or anything. I'm just taking my time, labeling things, and just taking lots of pictures.
Nice Brandon! 🤙 Then all my videos will work perfectly for you.
That’s the way to do it. Get the engine rebuilt properly and you will have a good running truck for a long time.
The cardboard trick is the best!
I do have a video about the vacuum lines. So if you are feeling unsure about hooking everything back up, you can check it out.
Anyhow, you’ve got the right idea Brandon. Just take your time, spend the money, and get your truck looking and running great! Thanks for watching too!🤙
Best thing to do before you pull it all apart is to take picture and document everything you did.
That’s neater trick than what I used to do. I used to take a “U” shaped piece of pipe and just swap it out during summer/fall.
Hahaha! Yup definitely pretty handy. Although a U shaped pipe does the trick. 🤙
There are a bunch of products with 4 hose connections and 1 vacuum line, I’d imagine they all do the same thing, any idea?
If you can verify that it performs the same function, I don’t see why not.
Hi Stevie my 92 f150 I replace resister for blower motor and now when truck is running I turn on blower motor which is working at all speeds but when I turn switch to vent the charge amp gage drops down under half charge do I have a an overdraw from blower motor or the dash heater control panel .
Hi Calvin! I would measure the amperage to the blower fan for several modes. I wonder if that’s a symptom of the blower motor starting to go.
This seams counterproductive to me. The heater core does not heat the water and actually is a heat exchanger so it should help cool the water?
The heater core helps cool engine coolant at the expense of having warmer ac.
The heater core is inside the cab, even with heat door closed the heat off of it is still warming the cab air. With the bypass installed the heater core does not get hot and radiate heat into the cab.
If you are relying on the heater core to help cool engine ,something is wrong with your cooling system.
@@randallcarney1216 that makes sense! I'm not relying on my heater core for cooling, I just didn't understand how bypassing it would help the A/C. Now after getting my head wrapped around it I will probably do it as I live in Phoenix and any A/C upgrade is welcome lol.
Thanks for another great video on this awesome channel.
Thanks John!🤙 I appreciate it!
I really like your science on this a lot of Toyota's I use to work on had those valves, with AC and or without AC. It should make a difference. Manufactures did not install them cause they don't work. Thank you for the video and the part number ref. Old 1960's Mustangs are the same way and would benefit from that valve. : )
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it!
Try painting your intercooler with black radiator paint. If it’s silver that is.
If my truck was turboed that would be awesome! But, I do know what you are talking about. Might Car Mods tested that theory🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters sorry I meant condenser. It’s been a long day. I have an f150 1997. I bought a silver condenser and painted it with radiator black paint. There are Vids all over that prove the effectiveness of black paint. The thing cools really well and I live in Houston. The fan is the old chug chug non electric. I do like the idea of removing heat from the core. Seems kind of silly not to by default.
@@georgewhyte6248 No problem man🤙 I kind of figured that’s what you meant. I just had to be sure.
Yeah it’s such a cheap simple part. I don’t know why Ford wouldn’t install from the factory.
it seems what you have shown is that this is not a worthwhile change.
Hey stevie i’m currently rebuilding my 96 f150 i just finished painting the rear of the frame and did all new shackles, 2in lifted leaf springs, shock mounts and i’m about to start the front with new buckets, radius arms, coils, shocks and your videos have help immensely thank you so much
Hi Matt! Nice! Good year! Love it! I can’t wait to rebuild the whole suspension on my truck. My rear leaf springs are original and are toast. The Moog coil springs up front are terrible.
@@TheMinuteMasters Oh dang! Sounds like another future video waiting to happen ;)
@@Alphawolf2325 You bet they are going to be future videos!🤙
looks like a mega pcv valve...lol. Always nice to watch your vids. I got no a/c....but still interesting. I do the "roll down the windows" a/c...lol. Hey, did you ever add new shocks on your truck? I'm thinking either later this fall...or next spring...that I'll be doing the pivot bushings, and at the same time I'll install new springs and shocks. Do it all at the same time to save some effort.
Hi Joe! For some reason this comment was held back as spam by UA-cam.
Anyhow, yes it does look like a mega PCV valve. lol I have working AC and I still like the "roll down ac" when weather permits.
I did replace my shocks all around. I started off with KYB Gas A Just. They are a monotube shock. I thought they were some what harsh (looking back it was the front coil springs). So I swapped the from set for Bilsteins which are fantastic. I blew the driver's side Bilstein on a pot hole in Pennsylvania and cracked the frame at the same time. I bough another Bilstein and blew it (because I didn't realize the frame was cracked.) I decided to save money, So I installed a Monroe cheapy shock on the driver's side. So, I have three different brands of shock on my truck and two different designs (monotube and twin tube). lol I recommend doing everything at once and knock it out.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks, Stevie. Ya, cracking the frame is pretty harsh. Must have been a hell of a hit. Can't imagine that happening. Ya...three different types of shocks is pretty wild. I'm thinking of going with the Bilsteins all around. Gonna buy from Summit, as Rockauto seems inconsistent with what they are stocking. Want a decent firm shock....but not overly stiff. My current ones must be pretty ancient...lol.
@@joeidaho5938 Oh it was Joe! It was “the” mother of all potholes I hit going 60 mph on a rap getting on the interstate. My truck immediately went into the death wobbly until I slowed down to 20 mph. My truck was drivable but if I hit any kind of minor bump or pothole on the driver side, it would death wobble. Yeah! I don’t recommend having three different types of shocks on a truck. It definitely makes for a Squirrley ride and weird handling. Lol
So Bilstien is stiff but the valving is much better than the KYB monotube shock.
@@TheMinuteMasters That's brutal. Would scare the shit out of me, in regard to the health of my truck. The trauma of loving a truck, eh? lol Thanks for the response, Stevie.
@@joeidaho5938 Oh it scared me too and I was headed to the airport. So I could even do anything about it for a while.
Yup! Definitely trauma for sure!
You’re welcome Joe! I appreciate the comments!🤙
Are you using an all aluminum radiator ? How.many rows ? Great videos ,BTW. I'll check your Playlist- have you done the heavy duty headlight wiring upgrade?
My radiator is the stock radiator. So probably 1 to 2 rows. Thanks man!🤙
So, I have two videos about headlights. I have a video about how to wire HID bulbs into the stock headlight housings. I have a video demonstrating why LED bulbs don’t work in stock reflector headlight housings. I’m holding to have a video about how to install projector headlights soon.
Thank you for the video. Just charged my AC yesterday but can only get the vent temp down to 65 degrees. Actuators are working with new vac pump. I'm hoping this drops the temps down!
Yes, definitely give this a try. You can also look at removing the shroud around the evaporator and cleaning it.
Will do! Thanks
Recently picked up a really straight 96 F150 was so excited for it then I found out very fast it needs head gaskets so that sucked mayyyybbbeee I’ll see a head gasket replacement on here soon haha awesome videos though really helpful for future fixes after I do the head gaskets
Nice! Good year! Honestly man, I’d take a straight no rust f150 with a blown engine or transmission any day. Mechanical stuff is simple and quick to replace. Paint and body work takes time and money.
@@TheMinuteMasters haha yes I’ve fallen quickly in love it was supposed to be something to use till I fix my other truck but I think I’m gonna fix this one first now instead
@@traviskantz2368 I know the feeling Travis! These trucks have their charm for sure. Plus used trucks are selling at all time high prices. I could do a frame off restoration of 2-3 of these trucks before I’d reach the price tag of a newer year truck.
@@TheMinuteMasters exactly why I don’t mind spending so much got an 01 and the 96 with 200k on both but they’re fairly solid the 96 is beautiful in the places it should be it’s got some spot rust but underneath is beautiful I’ll drop a brand new block in if I have to
@@traviskantz2368 Nice! Honestly, I’m nice my 5.0 dies, I’ll drop a new one in it and keep going.🤙
Great video, quick question: I've noticed that actuator on the passenger side of my truck is has the vacuum line snipped at the actuator, I want to get that reconnect, where does it run to?
Thanks man!🤙 good question. It’s hard to explain but if you want a good visual reference, I have a video that shows you how to replace all of your vacuum ones. I cover that vacuum line specifically.
@@TheMinuteMasters sounds good man. I remember seeing that video on your channel. I'll definitely dive into it. I know you get this alot but your channel has been invaluable, just got a 93 f150 and I've been binge watching your channel since getting it. Criminally underrated content dude. Thank you.
@@savage_the_wild You’ll definitely get a lot out of that video. Vacuum leaks are a huge issue with these trucks.
Thank you man! 🤙I really appreciate it! I’m glad you think so. I’m always trying to get my channel out to the public.
I love your seat cover. Where did you get that done?
It was a local upholstery shop in Manheim, Pennsylvania. Gobble I think was the name.
I'm fixing to do a manual swap! be great if we could get together!
That would be cool! Although, I’ve never attempted a manual swap. I’ve rebuilt my auto trans twice. Lol
Great info! Thanks!
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it!
Love the videos bro!!
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
great idea
Thanks man!🤙
Got a link or part number for the valve you used?
The link is in the description!🤙
I need more info like a part number or where you got it
There is a link in the description🤙
Nice. If only my AC worked lol
Thanks man!🤙 lol well hopefully you get it fixed.
@@TheMinuteMasters Definitely, my next project (fix the AC) after I finish the current one.
Can you do a video replacing the hood release handle?
The handle inside the cab or just replacing the actual hood latch?
cool. im making list of these mods and upgrades.
That’s what I do! Lol
Hey man do you have an added electric fan? Or still just running on the mechanical one only? When i added an electric fan as well, it was amazing. It feels like how cold it gets when your running down the highway. I didnt know about this bypass valve, ill have to try it out.
I don’t but I’ve heard it’s amazing! Did you add a pusher Flex lite type of fab onto the condenser?
Actually, I never heard of the bypass valve either until somebody commented about it.
Could please give a part number for the flex a lite condensor fan and what size diameter fan i would need and wiring diaghram?
@@terrybaptist795 I’m with Terry. I want to hear about your setup.
Sorry for the late response. I work evening shifts. So to start i have an 85 f150 with a 300 6. It has a dealer installed a/c system. Its not that much different but very similar. Originally when the truck was carbureted, i had a 16 inch generic pusher mounted to the condensor towards the driverside. Just wired in a 40 amp relay and fuse. The power signal spliced off of the power to the compressor clutch. The 300 mechanical fan actually sits offset to the passenger side because of the water pump location which is why i mounted more to the driverside. After i converted the truck to a holley sniper efi, i did away with mechanical fan and pusher all together and now run purely electric pullers. They are powered on by the sniper efi itself. The fans themselves i got off of jeffs bronco graveyard. They have a ton off options for whatever your looking to do. They also have low profile pushers that will fit in between the condensor and core support. Long story short, the 1 electric pusher worked great to give it the cfm needed at idle for colder a/c. I only went with the dual puller route to "clean" everything up and the fact that the sniper system can control it.
Check out jeffs bronco graveyard and see what you want to do. The ones i currently have now are the dual puller "27" fans. You can buy a bracket kit for it, or just make your own. Its all up to you what you want to do. Id highly recommend anothet fan though if you want colder a/c without the highway or having to rev at idle lmao.
What's the part number for that bypass valve or who makes it? Thanks
never mind, I saw your link!
I put a link in the description for the bypass valve. It’s normally found on Ford Explorers.
Hey stevie great videos as always. doing this install might be little different on my 96 f150 since my truck has OBD2 first year for it and your truck is mass air.
Hi Terry! Your 96 should be mass air too. I’d just for those two coolant lines. This should be the same for your year f150.
@@TheMinuteMasters No my truck is not mass air. Ford switched to OBD2 IN 1996.
@@terrybaptist795 Really? So even as OBD2 there is no air sensor measuring the flow of air through the intake?
@@TheMinuteMasters If you mean the mass air sensor that's in the intake yes there is one it tells the
computer how air is coming is
coming into the intake.
@@terrybaptist795 Yup, you definitely have a MAF sensor. Almost all new vehicles use them, at least on the ones I opened the hoods on.
Where do you find these parts?
I have a link in the description for the by pass valve. All the other little bits, I bought from O’Rielly’s.
The haircut is looking good
Thanks man!🤙
Is it true if your 3rd brake light is out your transmission shifts hard?
One certain years, yes. My truck is a 1995 with the AODE/4r70w. I swapped in an LED 3rd brake light. Apparently, LEDs can cause shifting issues too. So far, I haven’t had any issues.
@@TheMinuteMasters mines a 94 I have the same transmission. Occasionally when I enter the highway the shift to 4th be kinda hard . My 3rd brake light are burnt. Should I replace them . Also can you do a video on replacing your heater core
@@SC-dt4ij Ok, definitely replace the burnt 3rd brake light bulbs and see what happens. So the AODE transmission doesn’t have a true 4th gear. 4th gear is the overdrive band. Aftermarket shift kits make shifting into the OD band firmer to reduce wear on the OD band. Your new transmission could have a shift kit in it.
Do you think it can make a drastic change cooling wise, if u can just bypass the heater core? Not having heat working in exchange having colder ac? I live down south, winter is nothing over here
So this valve does bypass the heater core. Now if you’re talking about a more permanent bypassing of the heater core you probably could do that using a couple of elbows or just a 90° elbow and two hose clamps to complete a closed loop.
keep in mind though .. you lose defrost too
@@jaywebb0113 Like if he does a closed loop he will lose defrost?
@@TheMinuteMasters well if you bypass the heater core you dont have heat coming in to use with defrost also bypassing the heatercore could make the coolant run warmer cuz it has less area to travel through and that space of the evaporator /heater core has air move across it to help cool off the coolant . hence how it heats the cab, by air blowing across it with hot coolant warming the air into the vents/cab. also considering this ac system uses vacuum lines for its functions depends on what vacuum supply you use could effect the functions of the ac system
@@jaywebb0113 that’s why I recommend the valve because at least you still have the option of letting the heater core warm up for winter use. Newer Ford vehicles use this valve and they all hook it up to the one blend door vacuum line. So I’m assuming Ford has already done the research on this particular modification.
Great work! Next project how to install dual electric fan?
Thanks man!🤙 you mean to cool the radiator?
@@TheMinuteMasters aluminum radiator with electric will effectively fuel economy since I hear some people said that
@@dilanbashaw4235 Electric radiator fans eliminate the parasitic hp lose usually caused by the mechanical radiator fan. I actually have a Dyno test on this. Although I didn’t install electric fans for the test. You should check out that video.
Nice work kid.
Thanks!🤙
👍
It feels kinda like I just saw bypass surgery on a senior truck citizen.
Hahahaha! A very clean procedure though.👌
@@TheMinuteMasters Hey, yer logo changed.
@@borderlineiq Which one? The one I put in the video thumb nails?
@@TheMinuteMasters I dunno. I think it was the closing one. But then I looked at all the old ones, and it seemed the same. I thought there were words on it before.
@@borderlineiq So a couple of years ago, my intro was only words. Once I got a logo, the logo became the center piece.
Could you do this on a 03? Obviously not the same part number
I don’t see why not if it has two coolant hoses and max AC or just vacuum controlled ac.
@@TheMinuteMasters I was just asking cause I can't find the part anywhere for the 03 so I think I'm gonna grab that one and fab it but this thing doesn't permanently cut off the heater core right like if I wanted I could still have heat by switching it?
@@playboymusicmpr3108 Nope you will and can have heat function depending on how you set it up. The vacuum line that controls the one in the video is hooked up to the Max AC. When I select a max AC it will cut off the flow of coolant. However the moment I switch to regular AC or heat it will open up and let the coolant flow. If you can’t find a vacuum line that will do this for you I’ve seen guys just put a valve in there and they open and close it manually depending on the time of year.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks that helps a lot cause this ac is something but it ain't where I want it lol
@@playboymusicmpr3108 No problem man! Yup I feel the same way about mine. I think it could be 10 degrees colder but maybe I’m being picky when it’s 100° F outside. Lol
Where did you get your seat?
It’s the factory bench seat I had reupholstered. It’s a vinyl that looks just like leather.🤙
I forgot to leave a comment on this video about this but if you really want to get the best A/C possible on your truck it would pay to put some new insulation on that low-pressure hose that runs across the back of the engine bay in the plastic hangars attached to the cowl. Home depot sells foam insulation for copper pipes for cheap, pick some of it up and take the A/C line out of the hangars and cut the old flaky insulation off and install the new stuff over it. I would go from where the metal crimp is from the passenger side HVAC box all the way to the other crimp on the line right before the A/C compressor. Great video as always, but thought I could contribute my two cents. Also, do you have any social media for the channel? some small updates on your project truck would be really cool!
That’s a great idea! They do that for residential and commercial HVAC lines. I’ll add that to my list.
I sure do! I have an Instagram @theminutmasters and a TikTok. @minutemasters_ytc
That vacuum actuator is engaged whenever you use a setting beside defrost (vent/floor/etc). Doesn't this bypass cause you to lose heat on those other settings? I don't see how this only applies to A/C. Seems like you would only get cabin heat with defrost.
So I don’t know all the finer details but this does work but only for Max AC. My heat works on floor, defrost, and vent.
@@TheMinuteMasters that valve must be calibrated to open with the same max vacuum pressure then. The lower pressure probably doesn't move it. If you do lose heat, sounds like there may be one more spot to check. Thanks. Cool tip
@@jasont6849 Yeah I think that’s the case.
Thanks Jason!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters I was thinking about this more. Do you think you could flip the valve and set it up to only circulate into the heater core when there is a call for heat, making all of the A/C modes colder? Do you know if there is a vacuum hose for the cold/hot blend door? If there is, you may be able to use that one instead of the vent actuator hose.
@@jasont6849 That sounds possible. I just don’t know what vacuum line that would be. It would definitely be worth a try because that would be pretty cool.
hey I have F150 5.0 93 I have a problem in the transmission It's hard shift Do you know how to fix it?
It’s an automatic right?
@@TheMinuteMasters yes
@@TheMinuteMastersThe transmission fluid is new
@@TheMinuteMasters I bought the truck two weeks ago, I hope you can give me a solution
@@sai_kyt So it doesn’t shift or it slams into gear? Is it an OEM transmission, original that’s rebuilt or an aftermarket trans?
Also, check your third brake light and see that all the bulbs work. Believe it or not, a bad bulb can causes issues with automatic transmissions.
A video on troubleshooting and repairing/replacing the cheap plastic hvac control panel would help immensely. Seems like a major weak point in this era of Fords
Are you referring the the panel inside the cab?
@@TheMinuteMasters yep