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BTW I already bought Febi camber bolts but it would add or minus the camber value by + or -42' (+ or -0.67 degree) - depending if slotted in the grove a or b in the big bush of lower arm. It's too big a change as front negative camber adjustment needs only to be adjusted to about -1 from -0.7 degree. Thanks.
I sent in my old beater truck for an alignment and it came out with a left pull! It had shims for camber and caster but they only did the toes. Would never trust an alignment shop again.
Yeah Firestone too.. i finally figured out after the alignment camber from fire stone on the Honda . I now Look at the alignment paper camber side. If it say mine is out -03 on the paper . I jack the wheel up anywhere none leveled. And set my home Depot digital level the little square orange one.. and lay it on the rotor which the wheel off. And look at the numbers on the level, then look at my Firestone alignment paper. And I move it +3. On my own . My alignments are perfect nowadays. Camber all around 0. My caster is usually a bent control arm. And the toe they always do right for a tip to stand there and talk about it.
Thank you! Finally found a video that actually shows the adjustment process. I wish I could do the world a favor and delete these other guys "camber adjustment" videos.
I'm working on a '71 Skylark, just installed tubular front end and was very worried about the camber, castor and the rest of the alignment. Thanks for tips and lessons. Much appreciated 😊
I have a 1965 Chevy Impala SS, camber is adjusted by factory installed eccentric bolt / washers at the lower control arm bushing, and caster is adjusted at the factory installed lower control arm strut rod. Recently upgraded to the Ride Tech tubular upper and lower control arms and they still utilize the factory eccentric lower bolt / washers for camber adjustment and strut rod for the caster adjustment. Also installed the Ride Tech Shock Wave coil over shocks, not the air bags.
Thanks I have been searching for a explanation for adjusting the caster and camber of my 65 Galaxie 500. I have the same Quick Trick setup that I used when I was building my 34 Ford Coupe streetrod with mustang 2 front. Worked great. I'm like you and like to do everything myself. It went down the road perfectly. There's alot of videos on how to use the Quick Trick but nothing on adjusting the older car's alignment. Very good. Btw the Mustang 2 front 74-74 uses the upper control arm to adjust caster and camber. No swimming just a slot to move it in and out. I think it's very popular on streetrods because it is very easy to adjust.
Good morning, how about doing a video on using shims to align rear & front camber for a pre 2006 Mercedes E320?. Maybe there is one old E320 or other E model in your neighbour hood! 😂😂😂 Shims look like much easier & affordable to DIY than buying third party adjustable camber arms or adjustable toe arms. Thanks. Regards. Regards.
I just got this kit to do my track car, but I'm having a hard time trusting the camber spect of that guage. It feels like it is off. Tire looks like a lot of camber, but guage shows -1 degree or so compared to the other sode that looks like a less camber, but the number is higher, even looking at the bubble on the level
Hmmm, that's odd... don't forget to zero it out in front of the tire, before installing it on the upright. Let us know if you figure out what happened, or how you fixed it. Good luck!
Are you the guy that said you''ve been doing alignments for 60 years, on one of my previous videos? That makes you around 80 years old! Which is awesome! I love experienced guys like yourself... can you please explain why I'm so lost? Instead of just leaving a generic comment. Thanks!
Great Question... assuming the center of the wheel is about 6 inches above the pivot point (lower ball joint), if we take the Tangent of 4 degrees, and extrapolate to find horizontal distance traveled six inches away... I get 0.42 inches. So, it depends where we measure the forward location from? But, yes, it moves for sure. Thanks!
Loved the video. I really need to practice this method so I will be able to adjust my own vehicles in the future because many of them are 60’s through 90’s cars an trucks. Currently I’m am trying to work on my 94 Toyota pickup 2wd.
If you move shims from front to back or vice versa without adding or removing any. you will only change caster and it will not effect camber. So you didn’t show it but I’m assuming you add 1/16” shims to both front and rear shafts. If you took the rear shim and moved it to the front you would lower you caster without effecting your camber
Thanks Bill. Yes, and No. It depends on the A Arm design. Some are symmetrical front to rear, where your point is valid. Some are not symmetrical, where moving one shim from front to rear can change the Camber too. That's why it's always best to measure Camber, after setting the Caster. Thanks!
I’m stumped as to where you got that information from. Sorry in advance if this gets long. For some background. I started doing alignments around 1990 and did alignments and only alignments for about 9 years I was ASE certified in suspension and front ends and also a Hunter certified alignment technician. Back then we still saw cars with shims come in a lot and there was a time when I could look at caster and camber numbers and what shims to use or move to get the numbers in spec in one adjustment. Can’t remember that anymore lol. So it’s possible I have forgotten about different an arms. Just hoping you can elaborate more on the subject. Ps I love your channel as the owner of a 79 TA with a stroked 400 (461) with Fitech fuel injection I have found you videos helpful. Thank you for making them.
@@Bill-l8p Thanks Bill, that's awesome. So, some aftermarket upper arms are shorter, and have Caster built in. I know it doesn't change things dramatically, but it could skew the Caster/Camber shim swap method. :) Best to set Caster, then Camber to cover all the different styles. Thanks for being a part of the channel! Love your ride, BTW. I'd love to get a T/A too.
@@FastMontythanks I see what you’re getting at and I don’t have any experience with aligning the aftermarket control arms. I’ll just leave you with a few tips I really haven’t seen on any alignment videos. First check you ride height is even side to side and second make sure all your tire pressures are set and at least even side to side. If things are not even it can throw off your alignment.
@@Bill-l8p Thanks Bill. Yeah, I do mention air pressure... somewhere? But, I certainly did NOT mention side to side ride height. Great point. Thanks for the comments!
Thanks for the great info and explanation! I’m actually working on a motorhome (Ford E450 chassis) that handles like a 3 leg rhino! I’ve been told that I need to add several degrees of caster so I’m trying to figure out how to do it myself!
I just swapped from factory to UMI tubular...the stock ones had a shit load of shims, there was 6 on the rear of the drivers side...when I converted over I did a rough alignment with a tape measure, string and laser level and only used a few shims. I drove my Chevelle to the shop and had them align it and they only used a few shims to get it spot on. I am thinking the stock control arms had some warping.
99 s10 here. Replaced all steering and suspension my self. Got new tires needed an alignment so I added that too ended up not paying for it because they tried to pull a toe and go. I had put shims back after replacing parts the way they had them I have positive caster and camber by a degree. Turns out not very many people do shim alignments anymore its a dying system. called 5 shops all of them said no
Ohhh wow. I didn't realize most shops no longer provide "Shim" adjusting. Thanks for letting us know, and for telling us what vehicle you have that uses shims. Keep at it!
Because it depends on the car... ALL old cars can change the caster, if they have the upper A Arms shimmed, as in this video. New cars are fixed, UNLESS someone makes an aftermarket Camber/Caster kit for your car. For example, my E46 M3... I bought a Caster/Camber plate from Turner Motorsports, which allowed me to change those settings. What car do you have?
94 Roadmaster, B-body. Came to get an estimate for what shims do how much because the auto shop wanted to charge extra to adjust camber/caster. B-bodies, very close to A-bodies. 90% of the components are swappable.
GW is good stuff. I have a 72 Chevelle and just installed UMI upper and lowers in place of stock. UMI has them in red and I really like the options that have so I went with them.
Question on a 1967 Camaro rebuild with power steering…husband took out all the alignment shims and didn’t count them…he bought the quick trick alignment tool but we are totally lost…
Good question Kendra... I assume you have an alignment shim kit now? Put two 1/8" shims on each bolt, and start adjusting from there. It's ok to go a little backwards, to start... ie, use equal amount of shims to set the CAMBER, first. Then start over, by doing CASTER, then Camber, then Toe. Let me know if you have any questions.
Same set up on my 71 LeMans. Currently run std control arms so only manage 1-1/2 +ve caster with 1/2 neg camber and have pretty much maxed out with the shims. Will be moving to aftermarket control arms later this year when supplier stock levels are back in shape. I used my old Longacre caster/ camber gauge with tyres on two sheets of sturdy polythene. It works ok but the plates work like a dream. I used string alignment for toe-in, so am looking forward to your video for comparison. Your car must have felt a bit odd to drive withose original settings? Was that due to the bump steer mod you made? Keep up the good work Mike always look forward to your next episode.
Thanks Neil! Yeah, you're gonna love those new A Arms. And, yes, I love those swivel plates too. Definitely felt odd to drive, but nicer. Especially because I don't have any more bump steer. I clearly must have done the original set up wrong, 10 years ago, to get 9 degrees Caster. Crazy! That's how I learn... ha, ha... thanks again!
Brilliant video! Such a fantastic explanation of how shims affect, caster and camber, I had not been able to work it out in my head conceptually. Subscribed and will watch your other videos before doing my own alignment on my 66 mustang. (I also really like the calm and clear way in which you spoke!)
Thanks for all the Pontiac videos/motivation... I am restoring my 64' GTO right now. I have a long way to go but someday I will be aligning my suspension. So Thanks for the hard work and everything you do!! CHEERS!
Good question Donnell... if I'm not mistaken, B Body's use an Eccentric Cam to adjust the inboard/outboard position of the upper A arm. So, you'd use the same tools I showed, but the adjustment would be rotating those cams, instead of using shims. Hope that helps!
Another great video Mike! I'm working on a 1977 Pontiac Cam Am and it uses the same alignment hardware as your 2nd Gen A Body. The 3rd Gens like my Can Am and Grand Am are very close cousins in respect to the suspension components. Keep these videos coming!
I had a LOT of negative camber on my 84 S10 Blazer. I had no way of measuring it but you could clearly see it. It had been lowered by someone, not sure how they did it.. probably cut the coil spring. It had four1/8 shims on the rear of the control arm and two 1/8 on the front. I removed two shims front and rear and the camber looks much better, perfectly straight to the eye but I'm going to get it checked at a shop to make sure.
Am not sure i understand but my problem is my wheel is too far forward when i add shims to the rear of upper control arm it pulls the wheel torwads the fire wall which is what i need is this correct?
1963 Ford Galaxie converted from manual to power steering. I had to add some caster to get road feedback... The 63 uses the same shims... as a side note, so does my 1992 S-10.
Good question Anthony, they're US Mag BandIt's. 19x8.5 in the front, and 20 x 10 in the rear. (You'll see those next episode, :)) The offsets are custom to my car. I would suggest getting a measuring tool, like Percy's Wheel Rite tool. (That's what I used, and it's around $75?) Good luck!
Iam taking my small block 72 chevelle to alignment shop tomarrow.it’s stock control arms and steering linkage.found these specs on internet.caster 3-4 degrees pos/camber -1/8 degree/1/8” total toe in.does this sound better than using stock alignment specs?Thanks!
Took chevelle to Monroe muffler for alignment.they removed all the shims and cranked the tie rods almost all the way in.it was worse than when it arrived there.never take your shot to Monroe!Took it to a little local tire shop down the road and inside of three hours it went straight as an arrow down the road!Giess aligning our old school stuff is becoming a lost art!!!
I also have a 72 CHevelle. You can see it on my channel. I just swapped to UMI tubulars and those specs are within what UMI recommends for street cruising. 4 deg Caster drivers side and 4.5 on pass side. 0-1/4 Camber and Toe in 1/8 total.
70-81 F bodies use shims. I have GW upper control arms and am currently at + 7.0 Caster and -1.0 Camber which is a bit aggressive. I’m going to play with the toe a bit more when I get more miles on it.
Thanks Steve! Great to know F Bodies are included... yeah, you better start tracking it to take advantage of those measurements... ha, ha... thanks again.
@@FastMonty forgot to mention. Due to some frame issues on my car, I installed GW offset shafts so my specs are beyond what one would get with GW arms as they come.
Thanks for the shim link, I drive a 67 Firebird, just redid front end, suspension, tubular A-arms, springs, etc. Desperately need thsse to finish alignment. 👍👍👍
If you have a sports car, you want positive caster. Yes, if you have shimmed upper A Arms, yes you can adjust it, just like I did in this video. Have fun!
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BTW I already bought Febi camber bolts but it would add or minus the camber value by + or -42' (+ or -0.67 degree) - depending if slotted in the grove a or b in the big bush of lower arm. It's too big a change as front negative camber adjustment needs only to be adjusted to about -1 from -0.7 degree.
Thanks.
@@whlawson5812 Very cool. Thanks for sharing!
Most wheel alignment shops do not bother to adjust caster even cambers.
Agreed. Mostly due to the fact almost all modern cars don't have that option. Unless you buy a kit to do so. Thanks for the comment!
I sent in my old beater truck for an alignment and it came out with a left pull! It had shims for camber and caster but they only did the toes. Would never trust an alignment shop again.
@@impactodelsurenterprise2440 Yup, we've all been there... that's why I now do everything myself. Thanks for sharing!
Yeah Firestone too.. i finally figured out after the alignment camber from fire stone on the Honda . I now Look at the alignment paper camber side. If it say mine is out -03 on the paper . I jack the wheel up anywhere none leveled. And set my home Depot digital level the little square orange one.. and lay it on the rotor which the wheel off. And look at the numbers on the level, then look at my Firestone alignment paper. And I move it +3. On my own . My alignments are perfect nowadays. Camber all around 0. My caster is usually a bent control arm. And the toe they always do right for a tip to stand there and talk about it.
i have a 1993 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham that uses shims.
Great! Thanks for dropping a comment for others to search.
Thank you! Finally found a video that actually shows the adjustment process. I wish I could do the world a favor and delete these other guys "camber adjustment" videos.
Ha! Thanks Daniel! Much appreciated!
I'm working on a '71 Skylark, just installed tubular front end and was very worried about the camber, castor and the rest of the alignment. Thanks for tips and lessons. Much appreciated 😊
Welcome, Robert! With the right tools, it'll come out great. Keep us posted. Thanks for the comment!
Fantastic explanation and demo Mike. Thanks for doing a great job with the QuickTrick and helping others with the wrench goals!
Thanks! Your products are every DIY'ers necessity. Thanks for the comment!
Mazdq fighter B2500 (Ford Ranger WL 1999). It's the exact same procedure. 1mm shim is 0.5°(30') for caster, 0.25°(15') for camber.
That's awesome! Thanks for sharing!
I have a 1965 Chevy Impala SS, camber is adjusted by factory installed eccentric bolt / washers at the lower control arm bushing, and caster is adjusted at the factory installed lower control arm strut rod. Recently upgraded to the Ride Tech tubular upper and lower control arms and they still utilize the factory eccentric lower bolt / washers for camber adjustment and strut rod for the caster adjustment. Also installed the Ride Tech Shock Wave coil over shocks, not the air bags.
Good to know! Thanks Eddie!
Thanks I have been searching for a explanation for adjusting the caster and camber of my 65 Galaxie 500. I have the same Quick Trick setup that I used when I was building my 34 Ford Coupe streetrod with mustang 2 front. Worked great. I'm like you and like to do everything myself. It went down the road perfectly. There's alot of videos on how to use the Quick Trick but nothing on adjusting the older car's alignment. Very good. Btw the Mustang 2 front 74-74 uses the upper control arm to adjust caster and camber. No swimming just a slot to move it in and out. I think it's very popular on streetrods because it is very easy to adjust.
That's great to hear! Glad I could help... Thanks for dropping a comment.
Thanks. That really help. Got a 91 s10 with shims
Awesome! Thanks for the comment!
Good morning, how about doing a video on using shims to align rear & front camber for a pre 2006 Mercedes E320?. Maybe there is one old E320 or other E model in your neighbour hood! 😂😂😂
Shims look like much easier & affordable to DIY than buying third party adjustable camber arms or adjustable toe arms. Thanks.
Regards.
Regards.
Would love to... just don't have the time. ha, ha...
Thanks for the educational video. Does this method require the car chassis to be in a fully horizontal level? Device has some zero degree calibration?
Close to level is fine... yes, you zero out the gauge in front of the tire. Thanks for the comment!
G body chevy front clip installed in a 1941 Buick.
No kidding? That's awesome! Thanks for sharing.
Working on a 1986 oldsmobile cutlass supreme brougham ( any G-body) . Grate info thank you very much sir.
Thanks for dropping a comment! Glad I could help!
How do I adjust the 1973 positive camber on a chevy nova
Is this a trick question? I'm pretty sure it's the same as I show in this video. Let me know if I'm missing something. Thanks!
86 Fleetwood Cadillac brougham
Thanks Kevin!
So if I want negative camber then I just remove some
Correct!
67gto
Nice! Thanks for the comment!
I just got this kit to do my track car, but I'm having a hard time trusting the camber spect of that guage. It feels like it is off. Tire looks like a lot of camber, but guage shows -1 degree or so compared to the other sode that looks like a less camber, but the number is higher, even looking at the bubble on the level
Hmmm, that's odd... don't forget to zero it out in front of the tire, before installing it on the upright. Let us know if you figure out what happened, or how you fixed it. Good luck!
You're lost on alignment
Are you the guy that said you''ve been doing alignments for 60 years, on one of my previous videos? That makes you around 80 years old! Which is awesome! I love experienced guys like yourself... can you please explain why I'm so lost? Instead of just leaving a generic comment. Thanks!
1964 Chevy Nova, 283.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing!
Any idea of how much (in or cm) it moved the tire forward by adjusting your caster from 9 degrees to 5.1 degrees?
Great Question... assuming the center of the wheel is about 6 inches above the pivot point (lower ball joint), if we take the Tangent of 4 degrees, and extrapolate to find horizontal distance traveled six inches away... I get 0.42 inches. So, it depends where we measure the forward location from? But, yes, it moves for sure. Thanks!
@@FastMonty That is a significant amount, great information sir.
Loved the video. I really need to practice this method so I will be able to adjust my own vehicles in the future because many of them are 60’s through 90’s cars an trucks. Currently I’m am trying to work on my 94 Toyota pickup 2wd.
Thanks Daniel! Yeah, after you do it a couple of time, you'll be an expert. Ha, ha... have fun! (Good to have the right tools too)
If you move shims from front to back or vice versa without adding or removing any. you will only change caster and it will not effect camber. So you didn’t show it but I’m assuming you add 1/16” shims to both front and rear shafts. If you took the rear shim and moved it to the front you would lower you caster without effecting your camber
Thanks Bill. Yes, and No. It depends on the A Arm design. Some are symmetrical front to rear, where your point is valid. Some are not symmetrical, where moving one shim from front to rear can change the Camber too. That's why it's always best to measure Camber, after setting the Caster. Thanks!
I’m stumped as to where you got that information from. Sorry in advance if this gets long. For some background. I started doing alignments around 1990 and did alignments and only alignments for about 9 years I was ASE certified in suspension and front ends and also a Hunter certified alignment technician. Back then we still saw cars with shims come in a lot and there was a time when I could look at caster and camber numbers and what shims to use or move to get the numbers in spec in one adjustment. Can’t remember that anymore lol. So it’s possible I have forgotten about different an arms. Just hoping you can elaborate more on the subject. Ps I love your channel as the owner of a 79 TA with a stroked 400 (461) with Fitech fuel injection I have found you videos helpful. Thank you for making them.
@@Bill-l8p Thanks Bill, that's awesome. So, some aftermarket upper arms are shorter, and have Caster built in. I know it doesn't change things dramatically, but it could skew the Caster/Camber shim swap method. :) Best to set Caster, then Camber to cover all the different styles. Thanks for being a part of the channel! Love your ride, BTW. I'd love to get a T/A too.
@@FastMontythanks I see what you’re getting at and I don’t have any experience with aligning the aftermarket control arms. I’ll just leave you with a few tips I really haven’t seen on any alignment videos. First check you ride height is even side to side and second make sure all your tire pressures are set and at least even side to side. If things are not even it can throw off your alignment.
@@Bill-l8p Thanks Bill. Yeah, I do mention air pressure... somewhere? But, I certainly did NOT mention side to side ride height. Great point. Thanks for the comments!
1965 mustang shim method
Saaaweeet! Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the great info and explanation! I’m actually working on a motorhome (Ford E450 chassis) that handles like a 3 leg rhino! I’ve been told that I need to add several degrees of caster so I’m trying to figure out how to do it myself!
Whooooa doggy... yeah, I'd agree a four legged rhino would be better. Ha ha. Let us know how it turns out!
Just ordered that kit today. Using it on 1987 El Camino and 1992 Mustang Notchback
Awesome Mathew! Great to hear you'll be driving straight... ha, ha...
Working on a 67 Camaro. Thanks for the info
Awesome! And, Welcome!
I ordered my kit last night and used your code, thanks.
Awesome! Game changer!
68-82 corvette use shim . Thank you Mike. 😊
Great to know! Thanks for sharing!
Had a question, I’m adding tubular control arms to my Chevelle. Should I leave the spacers out or install them back like factory?
Congrats on the suspension upgrade! Leave them in, but you'll still need to do an alignment, as you may need to add/remove from there. Have fun!
Thank You
I just swapped from factory to UMI tubular...the stock ones had a shit load of shims, there was 6 on the rear of the drivers side...when I converted over I did a rough alignment with a tape measure, string and laser level and only used a few shims. I drove my Chevelle to the shop and had them align it and they only used a few shims to get it spot on. I am thinking the stock control arms had some warping.
@@cuzz63 Great story! Who knows what prior shops have done, right? Glad you're driving straight! Have fun!
1963 C-10
Thanks Weston!
55 ford Customline sedan
Awesome! Thanks for sharing!
Would this work on a 84 c10?
Only if it has shims... I have no idea. You should be able to see them on the top side of the A Arm. Let us know.
Fiat Panda Hybrid .Using shims to adjust the toe in/ out on the rear wheel hubs .
Ahhh, that's a new type of car here. Thanks for sharing!
99 s10 here. Replaced all steering and suspension my self. Got new tires needed an alignment so I added that too ended up not paying for it because they tried to pull a toe and go. I had put shims back after replacing parts the way they had them I have positive caster and camber by a degree. Turns out not very many people do shim alignments anymore its a dying system. called 5 shops all of them said no
Ohhh wow. I didn't realize most shops no longer provide "Shim" adjusting. Thanks for letting us know, and for telling us what vehicle you have that uses shims. Keep at it!
Isuzu rodeo, only up front though! My alignment shop is handling it though lol
Good to know... and, at least you know how it "should" be done. Just in case the shop messes it up. Ha, ha... thanks for the comment!
Why is it that the dealership told me caster is not fixable as well as someone from big O tires .
Because it depends on the car... ALL old cars can change the caster, if they have the upper A Arms shimmed, as in this video. New cars are fixed, UNLESS someone makes an aftermarket Camber/Caster kit for your car. For example, my E46 M3... I bought a Caster/Camber plate from Turner Motorsports, which allowed me to change those settings. What car do you have?
@@FastMonty Lexus es 350 2010
@@1smae100 Welp, that explains it. Your car is too new to have adjustable Caster. You'd need an aftermarket kit to make that happen. Good luck!
@@FastMonty do you know what causes this caster issue
@@1smae100 What issue?
65 mustand I don't know
pretty sure it does use shims. thanks!
You can use two plates of aluminum, and slap grease in between we use this method on f18s
Yup, you certainly could. Sounds like a mess though... ha, ha... thanks for the comment!
1994 Chevy G20 van
Thanks for the comment!
1986 Isuzu Trooper
Good to know! Thanks for the comment!
94 Roadmaster, B-body. Came to get an estimate for what shims do how much because the auto shop wanted to charge extra to adjust camber/caster.
B-bodies, very close to A-bodies. 90% of the components are swappable.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing! Hope that shop did it right! Ha, ha...
70 Chevelle but I'm thinking about going with Global West upper and lowers but still have OE stuff.
Good choice, as I have the same. :) Thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty Enjoy your videos and your attention to detail 👍
Thanks John! Much Appreciated! @@johna7184
GW is good stuff. I have a 72 Chevelle and just installed UMI upper and lowers in place of stock. UMI has them in red and I really like the options that have so I went with them.
@@cuzz63 Thanks for dropping a comment... UMI makes great stuff. Frankly, almost anything is better than stock. Ha, ha... Enjoy!
1998 S10 RWD short bed
Awesome! Thanks Howard!
1994 chevy s10 blazer 2wd
Awesome! Good to know.
Yes, Chevy GMC
Awesome! Thanks for sharing!
1980 Trans Am
Thanks Kenny!
Super for a body gm caster/camber set up
Thanks Art!
89 mazda B 2200
An 89 Mazda uses shims? Wow, I never woulda guessed that... thanks for sharing!
Geek
That's all you got?
1969 Camaro
Nice! Thanks for dropping a comment!
66 GTO
Thanks Rick!
64 Pontiac Tempest
Thanks for the comment Bill! Enjoy your new FMG hat too!
Question on a 1967 Camaro rebuild with power steering…husband took out all the alignment shims and didn’t count them…he bought the quick trick alignment tool but we are totally lost…
Good question Kendra... I assume you have an alignment shim kit now? Put two 1/8" shims on each bolt, and start adjusting from there. It's ok to go a little backwards, to start... ie, use equal amount of shims to set the CAMBER, first. Then start over, by doing CASTER, then Camber, then Toe. Let me know if you have any questions.
73 corvette
Awesome! Thanks for the comment!
Same set up on my 71 LeMans. Currently run std control arms so only manage 1-1/2 +ve caster with 1/2 neg camber and have pretty much maxed out with the shims. Will be moving to aftermarket control arms later this year when supplier stock levels are back in shape. I used my old Longacre caster/ camber gauge with tyres on two sheets of sturdy polythene. It works ok but the plates work like a dream. I used string alignment for toe-in, so am looking forward to your video for comparison. Your car must have felt a bit odd to drive withose original settings? Was that due to the bump steer mod you made? Keep up the good work Mike always look forward to your next episode.
Thanks Neil! Yeah, you're gonna love those new A Arms. And, yes, I love those swivel plates too. Definitely felt odd to drive, but nicer. Especially because I don't have any more bump steer. I clearly must have done the original set up wrong, 10 years ago, to get 9 degrees Caster. Crazy! That's how I learn... ha, ha... thanks again!
64 ford ranchero
Awesome! Thanks for the comment!
Brilliant video! Such a fantastic explanation of how shims affect, caster and camber, I had not been able to work it out in my head conceptually. Subscribed and will watch your other videos before doing my own alignment on my 66 mustang. (I also really like the calm and clear way in which you spoke!)
Thanks Brother! I appreciate the positivity. Welcome to the FMG family, and thanks for leaving a comment. Have fun!
Thanks for all the Pontiac videos/motivation... I am restoring my 64' GTO right now. I have a long way to go but someday I will be aligning my suspension. So Thanks for the hard work and everything you do!! CHEERS!
Thanks Brad! Glad I can help... stay with it, you'll get there!
Wow 🤩 great video, this will come in very useful when l get my Camaro back on the road… I never understood the shims, l do now 😀👍
Great to hear, Ben! Thanks for the comment!
How do I do a B body?
Good question Donnell... if I'm not mistaken, B Body's use an Eccentric Cam to adjust the inboard/outboard position of the upper A arm. So, you'd use the same tools I showed, but the adjustment would be rotating those cams, instead of using shims. Hope that helps!
Another great video Mike! I'm working on a 1977 Pontiac Cam Am and it uses the same alignment hardware as your 2nd Gen A Body. The 3rd Gens like my Can Am and Grand Am are very close cousins in respect to the suspension components. Keep these videos coming!
Good to know! Thanks for sharing... and, I'll do my best. Ha, ha...
I had a LOT of negative camber on my 84 S10 Blazer. I had no way of measuring it but you could clearly see it. It had been lowered by someone, not sure how they did it.. probably cut the coil spring. It had four1/8 shims on the rear of the control arm and two 1/8 on the front. I removed two shims front and rear and the camber looks much better, perfectly straight to the eye but I'm going to get it checked at a shop to make sure.
Thanks Bob... yeah, you can see a ton of negative camber, with the naked eye. Let us know how many shims you end up with. See ya!
Am not sure i understand but my problem is my wheel is too far forward when i add shims to the rear of upper control arm it pulls the wheel torwads the fire wall which is what i need is this correct?
How to set wheel alignment on a jaguar 1991 xj40s
If you're asking me... I have no idea? OR, are you telling us that Jag's also use the Shim Method?
1963 Ford Galaxie converted from manual to power steering. I had to add some caster to get road feedback... The 63 uses the same shims... as a side note, so does my 1992 S-10.
Nice, thanks Tom! Much appreciated.
My 96 Buick Roadmaster definitely have the shims
Thanks Jeff! Good to know!
Love the triangle explanation Monty well done!
Thanks! Just trying to keep as simple as possible... :) Thanks for the comment!
If it is a negative camber ,are you adding shims or removing
Adding shims should reduce camber.
The triangle analogy is a great, easy example. Nice job!
Thanks Paul! Much appreciated!
89 Toyota pickup uses shims on the UCA
Thanks J! Good to know! Thanks for the comment.
Great video! You should be teaching at a tech school Mike.
Ha! Thanks... can't do it without your products! Stay tuned for the ultimate Tech Teaching, which is string aligning. :)
What rims are those? Also size and offset? Thanks.
Good question Anthony, they're US Mag BandIt's. 19x8.5 in the front, and 20 x 10 in the rear. (You'll see those next episode, :)) The offsets are custom to my car. I would suggest getting a measuring tool, like Percy's Wheel Rite tool. (That's what I used, and it's around $75?) Good luck!
Iam taking my small block 72 chevelle to alignment shop tomarrow.it’s stock control arms and steering linkage.found these specs on internet.caster 3-4 degrees pos/camber -1/8 degree/1/8” total toe in.does this sound better than using stock alignment specs?Thanks!
I don't know what the "stock" settings are... those do sound logical though. The alignment shop should know. Good luck!
Took chevelle to Monroe muffler for alignment.they removed all the shims and cranked the tie rods almost all the way in.it was worse than when it arrived there.never take your shot to Monroe!Took it to a little local tire shop down the road and inside of three hours it went straight as an arrow down the road!Giess aligning our old school stuff is becoming a lost art!!!
@@stephenjoy5021 Ohhh man, that's exactly why I do everything myself. Glad you're driving straight again!
I also have a 72 CHevelle. You can see it on my channel. I just swapped to UMI tubulars and those specs are within what UMI recommends for street cruising. 4 deg Caster drivers side and 4.5 on pass side. 0-1/4 Camber and Toe in 1/8 total.
70-81 F bodies use shims. I have GW upper control arms and am currently at + 7.0 Caster and -1.0 Camber which is a bit aggressive. I’m going to play with the toe a bit more when I get more miles on it.
Thanks Steve! Great to know F Bodies are included... yeah, you better start tracking it to take advantage of those measurements... ha, ha... thanks again.
@@FastMonty forgot to mention. Due to some frame issues on my car, I installed GW offset shafts so my specs are beyond what one would get with GW arms as they come.
@@stevebrown6175 Ahhh, good point. Thanks!
65 Chevelle use’s those shim’s thanks Mike
Thanks! Much Appreciated!
My 1970 Z/28 uses those shims.
Thanks John!
Mike do you have poly bushings in your A arms?
No, they're more like Delrin. Much harder than Poly. Global West calls it Del-A-Lum.
@@FastMonty Thanks Mike
Thanks for the shim link, I drive a 67 Firebird, just redid front end, suspension, tubular A-arms, springs, etc. Desperately need thsse to finish alignment. 👍👍👍
Welcome! Glad it helped!
1970 El Camino
Awesome, thanks Michael!
Thank You !!!
No, thank you, Greg!
Cool video 79 Trans Am
Awesome. Jealous of your ride, ha, ha... thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty your GTO is sweet too. Just subscribed looking through your other videos
@@BADD400 Thanks! Yeah, poke around, ask questions... welcome to the FMG family!
Is this how you fix positive caster? I just install shocks and springs and they came up positive
If you have a sports car, you want positive caster. Yes, if you have shimmed upper A Arms, yes you can adjust it, just like I did in this video. Have fun!
@@FastMontyits a c10 just want them to be good
87 Monte Carlo
Awesome! Thanks!