Thank you for the few tips on wood movement everyone. Just for clarification, the holes on the C Channel are oversized so it floats more with the screws just holding it in place. However, I have gone back this morning and elongated the outside holes on the underside of the legs to allow the legs and table top to move freely from each other a bit more and allow for extra wood expansion.
Great build that is absolutely beautiful. The wood with that finish is the perfect combination. And it was nice to see your identical twin helping with the tedious sanding.
Some questions: 1. Do you have to treat the end grain to keep it from along too much finish? 2. Have you ever considered using a different wood for your dowels to add a stylistic element? 3. The joins for the base, pre screws, was just glue? They seemed so solid. Thanks for the vid!
Great questions. 1. I have used Monocoat half a dozen times now and never had any issues with applying to end grain. You apply it the same, buff it in the same, and buff it out the same. It might look different, but end grain will pretty much universally have a different look than long grain 2. I did - I wanted to use walnut originally for accents but didn't want to go through the process of building a dowel making jig for this project - it's on my list and it's a great aesthetic option
If I had $1 for every time 1:18 happened to me... anywho great project! I am coming into a lot of reclaimed mahogany soon, and a table like this is the first project I plan on doing with it!
Looks good man, another great video! So weird. I’m building a very similarly designed table right now with the same legs but out of 4”x4” steel tubing. We’re always on the same page haha
That is going to be a damn heavy table! The dining table I made for us a few months ago from white oak with the 3" square tube base is about 250 pounds.
Very nice. New subscriber. I appreciate that u decided to chime in about the riving knife bcuz I did notice that jst before you came in about that. Thanks for that tip.
I like the casual minimalist design. This came out really well. Where can i get one of those sanding doubles. On first watching the video i feared a little for your fingers with these ripping cuts and the blade fully extended. Maybe because you sped up this part.
Looks really great! The chamfer on the bottom of the legs is a great touch. Are you concerned with wood movement in the table top at all? I'm thinking the wood might expand and cause issues with the c channel installation and also the threaded inserts.
I swear the imperial system gets worst with every American video I watch 😂 12 quarter... why not 3 inch? I’ve heard this a few times lately, really baffles me!
@@workshop_edits how would it be incorrect as 3 inch? Honestly curious. I wouldn’t say it’s a fundamental issue, just seems like an overly complicated way to measure 😂
@@JNDCreations 12/4 refers to 12 quarter inches of wood, which is 3", but thats the raw form of it - if you buy from a dealer, they usually advertise as S2S or S3S which means at least 2 or 3 sides have been surfaced, which takes off thickness, resulting in wood that is ~2.75" but more usable for the average builder. Hope that helps!
I see plenty of room for movement. It's fully anchored in the center of the top and there's room for the wood to expand and shrink to either side of the center. Great video Zach!
Thank you for the few tips on wood movement everyone. Just for clarification, the holes on the C Channel are oversized so it floats more with the screws just holding it in place. However, I have gone back this morning and elongated the outside holes on the underside of the legs to allow the legs and table top to move freely from each other a bit more and allow for extra wood expansion.
A very nice table and bench. I like the understated contemporary look. The dimensions in this design work for me.
thanks for watching!
Great build that is absolutely beautiful. The wood with that finish is the perfect combination. And it was nice to see your identical twin helping with the tedious sanding.
Thank you very much! Love love love Rubio for furniture.
I appreciate that editing at 10:45. And the build of course!
I appreciate the extra hands too
Some questions: 1. Do you have to treat the end grain to keep it from along too much finish? 2. Have you ever considered using a different wood for your dowels to add a stylistic element? 3. The joins for the base, pre screws, was just glue? They seemed so solid. Thanks for the vid!
Great questions.
1. I have used Monocoat half a dozen times now and never had any issues with applying to end grain. You apply it the same, buff it in the same, and buff it out the same. It might look different, but end grain will pretty much universally have a different look than long grain
2. I did - I wanted to use walnut originally for accents but didn't want to go through the process of building a dowel making jig for this project - it's on my list and it's a great aesthetic option
Great content ! 👌
If I had $1 for every time 1:18 happened to me... anywho great project! I am coming into a lot of reclaimed mahogany soon, and a table like this is the first project I plan on doing with it!
not my finest moment...
Nice job!
Thanks!
Looks good man, another great video! So weird. I’m building a very similarly designed table right now with the same legs but out of 4”x4” steel tubing. We’re always on the same page haha
That is going to be a damn heavy table! The dining table I made for us a few months ago from white oak with the 3" square tube base is about 250 pounds.
Very nice. New subscriber. I appreciate that u decided to chime in about the riving knife bcuz I did notice that jst before you came in about that. Thanks for that tip.
Thanks for watching! Figured it was important to talk safety too!
I like the casual minimalist design. This came out really well. Where can i get one of those sanding doubles.
On first watching the video i feared a little for your fingers with these ripping cuts and the blade fully extended. Maybe because you sped up this part.
Just the speed up. I’m never close to the blade!
Looks really great! The chamfer on the bottom of the legs is a great touch.
Are you concerned with wood movement in the table top at all? I'm thinking the wood might expand and cause issues with the c channel installation and also the threaded inserts.
I followed the same methods that back forest wood company and other pros online have used so not at the moment.
Love it
thanks!
I swear the imperial system gets worst with every American video I watch 😂 12 quarter... why not 3 inch? I’ve heard this a few times lately, really baffles me!
Labeling it as 3” would be incorrect for S2S lumber which is what I am using and also wouldn’t solve your fundamental issue with the imperial system.
@@workshop_edits how would it be incorrect as 3 inch? Honestly curious. I wouldn’t say it’s a fundamental issue, just seems like an overly complicated way to measure 😂
@@JNDCreations 12/4 refers to 12 quarter inches of wood, which is 3", but thats the raw form of it - if you buy from a dealer, they usually advertise as S2S or S3S which means at least 2 or 3 sides have been surfaced, which takes off thickness, resulting in wood that is ~2.75" but more usable for the average builder. Hope that helps!
@@workshop_edits right, so 12/4 is the raw form, then you lose size for each surfaced side. Gotcha! Cheers
First 👍always a great content
Appreciate it!
You’ve left no room for movement. Should have elongated the hole in the c channel and where you bolted the top to the base.
The channel is long. It has an extra inch on each side. And the holes are oversized.
I see plenty of room for movement. It's fully anchored in the center of the top and there's room for the wood to expand and shrink to either side of the center.
Great video Zach!