I know this post is old,, but for others,when no steering is applied to the steering wheel, the control valve balances the pressure in the power cylinders so no turning happens. If it is pulling to one side. That cylinder is getting pressure when it should not be,that is a valve issue. A cylinder can also be receiving pressure while turning but have no power if it is leaking inside at the piston seals,, you can remove the cylinder to test it, drain them and test with air pressure for power.Even at 120 pounds air pressure on a 2 " ID cylinder you will get 240 lbs of force at the rod.. Some ford tractors have 650 psi up to 1100psi pumps depending on Model, when testing pressure do it quickly, pushing a pump to it,s max output too long can overheat and damage it or weaken the pressure relief valve spring. With 700 psi and the fact one cylinder is pulling , that means the pump could be a little worn but should still easily steer the tractor if the valve was working properly and the cylinders or one cylinder is not leaking inside. In a case like this I would get the valve problem corrected first. You really need to have a tee fitting in line with a gage hooked in the line to the cylinder testing each line one at a time for pressure when applying a turn to the steering wheel that should be affecting that cylinder if single acting. Or which ever side of a double acting cylinder the steering wheel should affect. MY tractor has one double acting cylinder with the valve bolted to the cylinder so no hoses from the valve to cylinder and no way using a tee fitting in a hose line to do that test.. There is One pressure side for each direction of turn. If you have 2 cylinders, yours is probably 2 single acting cylinders. Either way, you have 2 pressures to check are getting to the cylinder to effect a turn in either direction. If your getting pressure to the cylinder if the rod is at the direction where the hose enters, it should move the other direction and be impossible to budge the opposite direction while pressure is applied . In a double acting cylinder,, the pressure will build while turning but be lower than the pump pressure or little at all. Most small cylinders are not servicable,But if you can weld good or find a shop that can, you can cut around the cylinder with a hack saw at the rod entry end and usually find cup seals to fit the rod piston ,then weld it back together making sure the new cup seals are deep in the rod away from the welding heat, also if not replacing the rod shaft seals after the welding,, during the welding,, keep the cylinder cool with a wet rag to protect those seals from heat damage. I agree with the other post 700 psi is 1400 lbs of force on a 2"ID cylinder, plenty of power to turn easy. As the pump wears the pressure will get lower but capping the pump outlet with a gage just shows a max pressure the pump can output or the regulator pressure setting, the operating pressure is a lot lower. It only developes max pressure when steering is applied when the steering is at the end of it's travel. That is where you force the pressure relief valve to release..
I bought a 1990 #3910 2WD Ford tractor with the same power steering as yours. The problem with mine was it came with the left side cylinder bent like an L shape where it came out of the cylinder. replaced it and now the other side did the same thing. do you have any suggestions on what could be doing this.
Where did you get the tie rod ends for the steering arms? Just picked up a '75 3600 and seller told me same exact thing, power steering never worked so they never fooled with it. So this is next on my list of fixing along with the tie rod ends.
I had a problem to where mine would only steer to the right and a lot the steering wheel to turns to the left. took the steering pump out and found that there was a half an inch buildup of dirt where the steering Splaine goes cleaned it out put it back together drop the steering sprain a half an inch now it works perfect
pumps have nothing to do with it pulling one direction.the valve controls that, unless pressure affects valve balancing, Most of those pumps are rated at 1100 psi max. The relief valve setting, that is not the operating pressure..Dont get why 700 was not enough pressur,e, unless it has to do with ,flow rate it is 1100psi at 2.3 gpm.. Your 700psi was no flow.. gives me something to consider, my manual shows testing pressure like you did, no flow but that was for testing the relief valve pressure.
I know this post is old,, but for others,when no steering is applied to the steering wheel, the control valve balances the pressure in the power cylinders so no turning happens. If it is pulling to one side. That cylinder is getting pressure when it should not be,that is a valve issue. A cylinder can also be receiving pressure while turning but have no power if it is leaking inside at the piston seals,, you can remove the cylinder to test it, drain them and test with air pressure for power.Even at 120 pounds air pressure on a 2 " ID cylinder you will get 240 lbs of force at the rod.. Some ford tractors have 650 psi up to 1100psi pumps depending on Model, when testing pressure do it quickly, pushing a pump to it,s max output too long can overheat and damage it or weaken the pressure relief valve spring. With 700 psi and the fact one cylinder is pulling , that means the pump could be a little worn but should still easily steer the tractor if the valve was working properly and the cylinders or one cylinder is not leaking inside. In a case like this I would get the valve problem corrected first. You really need to have a tee fitting in line with a gage hooked in the line to the cylinder testing each line one at a time for pressure when applying a turn to the steering wheel that should be affecting that cylinder if single acting. Or which ever side of a double acting cylinder the steering wheel should affect. MY tractor has one double acting cylinder with the valve bolted to the cylinder so no hoses from the valve to cylinder and no way using a tee fitting in a hose line to do that test.. There is One pressure side for each direction of turn. If you have 2 cylinders, yours is probably 2 single acting cylinders. Either way, you have 2 pressures to check are getting to the cylinder to effect a turn in either direction. If your getting pressure to the cylinder if the rod is at the direction where the hose enters, it should move the other direction and be impossible to budge the opposite direction while pressure is applied . In a double acting cylinder,, the pressure will build while turning but be lower than the pump pressure or little at all. Most small cylinders are not servicable,But if you can weld good or find a shop that can, you can cut around the cylinder with a hack saw at the rod entry end and usually find cup seals to fit the rod piston ,then weld it back together making sure the new cup seals are deep in the rod away from the welding heat, also if not replacing the rod shaft seals after the welding,, during the welding,, keep the cylinder cool with a wet rag to protect those seals from heat damage. I agree with the other post 700 psi is 1400 lbs of force on a 2"ID cylinder, plenty of power to turn easy. As the pump wears the pressure will get lower but capping the pump outlet with a gage just shows a max pressure the pump can output or the regulator pressure setting, the operating pressure is a lot lower. It only developes max pressure when steering is applied when the steering is at the end of it's travel. That is where you force the pressure relief valve to release..
The power steering pump on those old Fords were rated at 600 psi. Your pump seems to be working fine if it's putting out 700psi.
I bought a 1990 #3910 2WD Ford tractor with the same power steering as yours. The problem with mine was it came with the left side cylinder bent like an L shape where it came out of the cylinder. replaced it and now the other side did the same thing. do you have any suggestions on what could be doing this.
You must fill with oil and with machine running turn steering wheel back and forth all the way to work air out of system. Bet pump is fine
Where did you get the tie rod ends for the steering arms? Just picked up a '75 3600 and seller told me same exact thing, power steering never worked so they never fooled with it. So this is next on my list of fixing along with the tie rod ends.
I think I got them from yesterday's tractors or maybe broken tractor.com I use both regularly so which ever has the best deal
I had a problem to where mine would only steer to the right and a lot the steering wheel to turns to the left. took the steering pump out and found that there was a half an inch buildup of dirt where the steering Splaine goes cleaned it out put it back together drop the steering sprain a half an inch now it works perfect
Any issue with the steering control box after you replaced the pump.
none so far!
Following I have the same problem
Is there separate power steering fluid? Check that.
Yes the reservoir is on the pump
Did you ever fix the power steering?
Yes it was a bad pump, replaced it and it works to this day.
ua-cam.com/video/yvehRsSyZ3g/v-deo.html
I show replacing the pump starting at around 4:30 into the video
pumps have nothing to do with it pulling one direction.the valve controls that, unless pressure affects valve balancing, Most of those pumps are rated at 1100 psi max. The relief valve setting, that is not the operating pressure..Dont get why 700 was not enough pressur,e, unless it has to do with ,flow rate it is 1100psi at 2.3 gpm.. Your 700psi was no flow.. gives me something to consider, my manual shows testing pressure like you did, no flow but that was for testing the relief valve pressure.