I'm here because your uncle came in a store I manage and we got to talking and he showed me your channel. Can't remember his name but he was a great guy. Bentonville
Hey man any tips on drilling out the welds for the auto trans tunnel and putting the rivets in for the manual tunnel? thanks man, finally getting around to my r154 swap!
Would you like me to post a video on this? I did this to my other sc300, and recorded some of the process. Quality won’t be that good. But all you have to do is drill out all of the spot welds, some are hidden under sound deadening material so you may need to use dry ice to remove that first. Once all the spot welds are drilled out, you have to beat it out with a hammer. It’ll come out, trust me. You can use rivets, I welded the new trans tunnel and applied seam sealer everywhere. I finished off under the tunnel with a couple coats of 3m professional grade rubberized undercoating.
Sorry Ed, another question. You replaced your stock fuel filter, so that means you are using the stock metal fuel line up to where? I've read that some folks just cap off the metal lines, leave it there, and run the steel braided hose along side it. Why didn't you do something like that? Just unnecessary for your fuel demands?
Hey Ed, I was able to get my NA-T build to start on AEM v2 with the base map from Freed Engineering. However I had to jump my fuel pump relay to do so.. (I’m using the same Deatchworks relay kit and Walbro 450) If I don’t jump it, my fuel pump does not prime. I am using 72B (LS2) output, and have tried other low side outputs with available switches grounds 1.5 apms, however for some reason, the relay does not want to kick on when the ignition is turned on. Did you experience this issue at all? Or were you successful after pinning the blue wire from the relay kit to LS2? From the research I’ve done on forums, I see that other AEM v2 users had this issue with “back feeding” when connected to a constant 12v source instead of ignition switched. As well as the idea of “switched ground” meaning you connect the ground wire of your application instead of your usual signal wire. This makes me wonder if you’ve experienced this issue and had to rewire some things after installing your AEM v2 and attempting your first start. Let me know if you have, and what you did to fix it, Thanks
You know what, now I do recall an issue with fuel pump and traced it to the way I had it grounded from the relay. I don’t recall off the top of my head how exactly we ended up wiring that, but if you want when I get home later I can pull back the carpet and take a look. I think when I made this video I was just running wires for fuel with out being able to test them until a few months later. I’m really sorry about the lack of details with this on my end.
@@Edward3jr Yea if you don’t mind, that would be greatly appreciated! For some reason I just can’t seem to get this. I mean it’s either that, or I run a toggle switch to the relay, but ECU controlled would be ideal. Thanks man
Regarding injectors, I have the Driftmotion fuel rail that lets you use 14mm style domestic injectors. But now I don't know which body or connector type I need. Snake Eater Performance. (www.snakeeaterperformance.com/products/snake-eater-1500cc-injectors) They have "Deka" style, "LSA/LS3", "EV14 48mm Medium style". Any thoughts on this? I've already emailed Aaron at Driftmotion for his feedback.
Your helping alot
I'm here because your uncle came in a store I manage and we got to talking and he showed me your channel. Can't remember his name but he was a great guy. Bentonville
Thank you! He’s my favorite uncle!
@@Edward3jr I can see why. Awesome channel.
Great looks like your taking your time and doing it right instead of just slapping it all together
I wish I can just slap it all together and be done lol
I appreciate that you are doing these upgrades a couple weeks ahead of me. Keeps me on task and it's a good reference.
Thank you for watching. Let me know if you have any questions about anything!
Keep the sc alive keep the video coming
I have an update will find time to edit videos soon!
Another great, informative video. Thanks Edward!
Thank you!
love the sc content bro
Thank you!
I am bringing my 96 SC 300 to you
Sure! bring it by
I upgraded my fuel pump to a 12v one and I have to push an efi fuse to get it to “work” everytime before i start it so annoying
Nice job on the wiring Edward3jr.
Thank you!
Sorry, meant size and length
Size is 3/8 length is about 18 inches
U r such a MacGuyver dude... Gimme some tape, gum & foil = 600hp sc300. (jokes) GOOD WORK
Thank you! 😂😂😂
Hey man any tips on drilling out the welds for the auto trans tunnel and putting the rivets in for the manual tunnel? thanks man, finally getting around to my r154 swap!
Would you like me to post a video on this? I did this to my other sc300, and recorded some of the process. Quality won’t be that good. But all you have to do is drill out all of the spot welds, some are hidden under sound deadening material so you may need to use dry ice to remove that first. Once all the spot welds are drilled out, you have to beat it out with a hammer. It’ll come out, trust me. You can use rivets, I welded the new trans tunnel and applied seam sealer everywhere. I finished off under the tunnel with a couple coats of 3m professional grade rubberized undercoating.
@@Edward3jr you would be a legend if you did! Yeah I figure it’s just kind of involved to get to but simple once you’re in there. Thank you man.
Sorry to bug, but did you get a chance to take a look at that relay wiring yet Ed?
Not yet, I’ll try to get this done today, have had my hands full… if you can reach out to me on Instagram it’s the best way to reach me. Edward3jr
Sorry Ed, another question. You replaced your stock fuel filter, so that means you are using the stock metal fuel line up to where? I've read that some folks just cap off the metal lines, leave it there, and run the steel braided hose along side it. Why didn't you do something like that? Just unnecessary for your fuel demands?
I’m using the oe stock fuel filter and factory hard lines until the fuel rail. The factory lines are plenty enough for my goals.
For the submersible fuel tubing, which length did you get?
I went with 18, but that’s way too long. Try 12inches.
@@Edward3jr 3/8"?
@@jcooper702 yes 3/8
Hey Ed, I was able to get my NA-T build to start on AEM v2 with the base map from Freed Engineering. However I had to jump my fuel pump relay to do so.. (I’m using the same Deatchworks relay kit and Walbro 450) If I don’t jump it, my fuel pump does not prime. I am using 72B (LS2) output, and have tried other low side outputs with available switches grounds 1.5 apms, however for some reason, the relay does not want to kick on when the ignition is turned on. Did you experience this issue at all? Or were you successful after pinning the blue wire from the relay kit to LS2?
From the research I’ve done on forums, I see that other AEM v2 users had this issue with “back feeding” when connected to a constant 12v source instead of ignition switched.
As well as the idea of “switched ground” meaning you connect the ground wire of your application instead of your usual signal wire.
This makes me wonder if you’ve experienced this issue and had to rewire some things after installing your AEM v2 and attempting your first start. Let me know if you have, and what you did to fix it, Thanks
You know what, now I do recall an issue with fuel pump and traced it to the way I had it grounded from the relay. I don’t recall off the top of my head how exactly we ended up wiring that, but if you want when I get home later I can pull back the carpet and take a look. I think when I made this video I was just running wires for fuel with out being able to test them until a few months later. I’m really sorry about the lack of details with this on my end.
@@Edward3jr Yea if you don’t mind, that would be greatly appreciated! For some reason I just can’t seem to get this. I mean it’s either that, or I run a toggle switch to the relay, but ECU controlled would be ideal. Thanks man
@@ryanr9858 hey ryan im running into the same problem here. Were u able to find a solution?
Hola
Hola
First to the party
Regarding injectors, I have the Driftmotion fuel rail that lets you use 14mm style domestic injectors. But now I don't know which body or connector type I need. Snake Eater Performance. (www.snakeeaterperformance.com/products/snake-eater-1500cc-injectors)
They have "Deka" style, "LSA/LS3", "EV14 48mm Medium style". Any thoughts on this? I've already emailed Aaron at Driftmotion for his feedback.