Just bought a 1973 H3 number 55435 Its in ok shape for the most part. Worst of the damage is to the seat rails on the fender. Gonna have to break out the welder. Anyway nice job on the paint! looking good.
My seat slides were hammered also. Had a couple cracks and the metal squeezed out a little. I cleaned up, welded, ground down and then sent out to be bead blasted. On assembly, bought a 1.5" roll of black electrical tape and stuck it to the bottom of each spring & the plates on the back side before bolting them down. Also took standard size roll of tape and lined the inner metal clamps for the fuel tank. Thought it would cut down on the metal to metal wear and rusting. So far it works great. Good luck on your resto!
@@raincitywrench117Yeah I was thinking about making some nylon wear plates. Im not going to be the only one to use it and the seat will likely be moved. Id also like to make a toolbox for the fender. Good Ideas though. I'm sure they will pay off.
Many of the parts were sourced from www.greenpartstore.com. Click MORE INFO tab and then John Deere Online Parts Catalog. You will find all the diagrams and part numbers. I sourced most parts through them and ebay. The trunnion shaft seal was puking on mine and is numbered incorrectly in the diagram. Seal #23 says M86241 but should be AM3426T. You will need two trunnion shaft (hydraulic control shaft) seals and they are hard to find. I bought both as new old stock from random sellers on ebay. The large charge pump input seal is #3 M45400
Do you have any videos of you pulling apart the rear end i’m trying to find out what tools I need to pull the axle apart currently working on my own complete restoration
Sorry, I do not. I bought the service manual for this about 12 years ago and it was an invaluable tool for my rebuild. I had it out on the bench the entire time & was constantly looking at the pictures for reference along with the specifications & procedures. IMO it's a must have when you get to steering, engine, differential adjustments. Here is the free online pdf version of the one I bought: www.earlydaytractoriron.org/Technical/Manuals/JD140-SM2093%20(Jul-73).pdf Also, I just finished up mine last saturday and am working on the video right now. It will be released in the next couple days so don't miss it. Cheers!
I’m starting to restore my 69’ 140 H3. Would like to know if it’s possible to disassemble and reassemble this tractor by just using the operator and maintenance manuals? Before I take it completely apart, I wanna know that I’ll be able to get it back together without a second one parked beside it to reference off of
I bought a service manual and it was invaluable. Check your serial number which is probably under 30,000. Can't remember where I located mine but here is a used one for serial number 30,001- over www.ebay.com/itm/325880252776
It's a really cool machine. Anytime I have company over in the garage they comment on it. Have about $4500 dollars in it. Will be taking it to the grave.
Yes, will start on that and the front blade when I get everything else back together. Will be a walk in the park. The deck probably only has 30 parts vs 400 on the tractor. I already have the blades, bearings and belt. Bought those about 12 years ago but never got to it . The local implement has changed name three times since then. LOL
May I ask where you ordered your parts from? Replacing my tires on a 1968 140 and the seals on the front for the bearings are shot. Having trouble locating replacements. I found Hapco but didn't have the seals.
I looked up all the part #'s through JDparts using their diagrams and then would source most through ebay, hapco, greenpartsstore and local implement co.
Appreciate the offer. I'm probably 2500 miles from you in western Washington. Have rounded up every last part & in the process of final assembly. Hope to have it completed and running in the next two weekends. Come back in about three weeks and I should have a video done.
J&D lawn tractor out of Mendon IL. $275 bucks, not quite as nice as original but saved me countless hours trying to restore an oem unit. I had to call them direct to order, you can't do it through their website.
@@tbeery196 The Hapco unit looks nice also. It's predrilled but would need painted. The J&D unit is green gelcoat which almost matches rustoleum JD implement green perfectly but has to be drilled. It looks like the interior finish is rougher then the original on both hoods. My under hood sticker won't stay attached. May use some contact cement to see if that works. That's a job for spring when it warms up around here.
Literally the only Jd 140 restoration video! I love my 140. Have pulled so much weight over it's life. Great work
Wouldn't mind picking up another one if given the chance.
Just bought a 1973 H3 number 55435 Its in ok shape for the most part. Worst of the damage is to the seat rails on the fender. Gonna have to break out the welder. Anyway nice job on the paint! looking good.
My seat slides were hammered also. Had a couple cracks and the metal squeezed out a little. I cleaned up, welded, ground down and then sent out to be bead blasted. On assembly, bought a 1.5" roll of black electrical tape and stuck it to the bottom of each spring & the plates on the back side before bolting them down. Also took standard size roll of tape and lined the inner metal clamps for the fuel tank. Thought it would cut down on the metal to metal wear and rusting. So far it works great. Good luck on your resto!
@@raincitywrench117Yeah I was thinking about making some nylon wear plates. Im not going to be the only one to use it and the seat will likely be moved. Id also like to make a toolbox for the fender. Good Ideas though. I'm sure they will pay off.
Great job, where did you find the input shaft seal? Or the charge pump seal? Not sure what it’s called. I can’t seem to locate any place to buy one.
Can't remember but have all my receipts. Let me check and I'll get back to you. I did have a difficult time finding a couple of the seals
Many of the parts were sourced from www.greenpartstore.com. Click MORE INFO tab and then John Deere Online Parts Catalog. You will find all the diagrams and part numbers. I sourced most parts through them and ebay. The trunnion shaft seal was puking on mine and is numbered incorrectly in the diagram. Seal #23 says M86241 but should be AM3426T. You will need two trunnion shaft (hydraulic control shaft) seals and they are hard to find. I bought both as new old stock from random sellers on ebay. The large charge pump input seal is #3 M45400
Do you have any videos of you pulling apart the rear end i’m trying to find out what tools I need to pull the axle apart currently working on my own complete restoration
Sorry, I do not. I bought the service manual for this about 12 years ago and it was an invaluable tool for my rebuild. I had it out on the bench the entire time & was constantly looking at the pictures for reference along with the specifications & procedures. IMO it's a must have when you get to steering, engine, differential adjustments. Here is the free online pdf version of the one I bought: www.earlydaytractoriron.org/Technical/Manuals/JD140-SM2093%20(Jul-73).pdf
Also, I just finished up mine last saturday and am working on the video right now. It will be released in the next couple days so don't miss it. Cheers!
I’m starting to restore my 69’ 140 H3. Would like to know if it’s possible to disassemble and reassemble this tractor by just using the operator and maintenance manuals? Before I take it completely apart, I wanna know that I’ll be able to get it back together without a second one parked beside it to reference off of
I bought a service manual and it was invaluable. Check your serial number which is probably under 30,000. Can't remember where I located mine but here is a used one for serial number 30,001- over www.ebay.com/itm/325880252776
@@raincitywrench117 Do you know where can I find replacement brake shoes for my 69' 140?
I think this lawn tractor with the Koehler one lung engine and hydraulics front and back is one of the best set ups
It's a really cool machine. Anytime I have company over in the garage they comment on it. Have about $4500 dollars in it. Will be taking it to the grave.
Are you going to restore the mower as well? Great job
Yes, will start on that and the front blade when I get everything else back together. Will be a walk in the park. The deck probably only has 30 parts vs 400 on the tractor. I already have the blades, bearings and belt. Bought those about 12 years ago but never got to it . The local implement has changed name three times since then. LOL
May I ask where you ordered your parts from? Replacing my tires on a 1968 140 and the seals on the front for the bearings are shot. Having trouble locating replacements. I found Hapco but didn't have the seals.
Let me dig up my parts receipts. Will get back to you tomorrow. Think I had to source from multiple spots
I looked up all the part #'s through JDparts using their diagrams and then would source most through ebay, hapco, greenpartsstore and local implement co.
looks great im not sure where you are located but before you spend big bucks on parts i have a bunch of 140s and implements Dirk upstateny
Appreciate the offer. I'm probably 2500 miles from you in western Washington. Have rounded up every last part & in the process of final assembly. Hope to have it completed and running in the next two weekends. Come back in about three weeks and I should have a video done.
Where did you get that hood?
J&D lawn tractor out of Mendon IL. $275 bucks, not quite as nice as original but saved me countless hours trying to restore an oem unit. I had to call them direct to order, you can't do it through their website.
@@raincitywrench117 thanks. I know HAPCO makes hoods too. I wonder what the quality difference is between yours and the hapco one.
@@tbeery196 The Hapco unit looks nice also. It's predrilled but would need painted. The J&D unit is green gelcoat which almost matches rustoleum JD implement green perfectly but has to be drilled. It looks like the interior finish is rougher then the original on both hoods. My under hood sticker won't stay attached. May use some contact cement to see if that works. That's a job for spring when it warms up around here.