So the thing is this. In the factory they remove the injectors, and hook the fuel lines to clear plastic cylinders that have a metal float that travels up and down when the screws are turned in/out. That' how they balance the ports inside the fuel distributor. They just want to make sure that even amount of fuel exits each port. Then they pressure test all the fuel injectors and group those that open up at certain fuel pressure and spray equal amount of fuel. Then they install them into the car. They can do this because they have million of fuel injectors on hand and they can run thru and pick the best ones. We can't do that or it will bankrupt us. Adjusting the fuel exit port screws did nothing for me when I tried to balance the fuel injectors. I took the fuel distributor apart three times making sure there wasn't any fuel blockage. I even took out the four fuel filters in the exit ports thinking it was one of the fuel filters causing blockage and resulting in one injector spraying less. Then when that didn't work, I removed the bad injector and moved it to another fuel line and all the sudden that injector was now spraying well. Then some others didn't spray well anymore. So the whole system was thrown off just by moving one injector around. Try it and you'll see the same. So the conclusion is that it's the fuel injectors themselves that are causing the fuel imbalance problems and you'll need bosch or some other make fuel injector pressure tester and match four good injectors to each other. I bought four new injectors and only two were close to each other and the others way off so I had to reuse some of the old injectors to balance the fuel flow. Luckily they don't have to be balanced all that well for the car to run. So the takeaway from this is that the fuel exit port adjustment screws do work with balancing the fuel injectors but only if those injectors are initially balanced to each other or when you're using the factory installed fuel injectors which were balanced by factory. If you're buying new fuel injectors then you'll need to ask the shop to give you the four that are a close match. There is nothing you can do to the springs inside the fuel injectors trying to adjust their tension as the whole injector is one sealed unit. These cars run great when new but overtime the wear in the springs, etc. will cause an imbalance problems as the car ages as it's all mechanical. I prefer my 1989 ford escort's single electronic fuel injector ie. throttle body injector, as it's very reliable and dead easy to work on. Volkswagen had the electronic injectors back then as evidenced by the cold start injector or the lambda frequency valve installed on 1982 jetta but probably didn't have the electronics to make it work or the electronics were too expensive. That would be my guess.
Great video, could you make one where you adjust the idle? Timing, air screw and CO. Maybe other things to look for that effect idle like the ISV, grounds, etc. Getting the idle right on these could be such a pain. Thanks
When you lift the sensor plate, how far up does it normally move before fuel starts coming out of the injectors? Mine seems to come up about 1/4" before I can feel it pushing on the metering head's pin. I'm sure it shouldn't have this much play! Thank you for the video - I'll definitely use this method to balance them, once I can get it to stay running.
I seem to recall there was resistance from the metering head pin as soon as I began to lift the sensor plate from its rest position and I immediately started to hear the injectors whine. I would check that your metering head is properly seated on top of the airbox as theres normally an o-ring that fits to the base of the fuel metering unit to seal it against the air box. If this is to large or twisted then it could be that the metering head is sitting too high up on the airbox and therefore raising the pin too high from the sensor plate arm. Another thing is to check the CO adjustment screw that sits in the hole just between the fuel metering head unit and the large rubber boot which runs to the intake. It could be that this CO Adjustment screw is incorrectly adjusted as you say you cant get it to stay running. I forget which way you turn it but I think if you screw it in clockwise it enriches the fuel mixture, and anticlockwise leans it out. This essentially adjusts the amount of distance between the air plate sensor arm and the Metering head pin so that the ratio of air being drawn into the intake is correct to the amount of fuel being drawn by the pressure on the Metering head pin. Again theres a section in the Haynes manual to explain how to set this and ideally you need a gas analyser to measure the CO from your exhaust to get it setup right. Good luck!
@@RetroVW Thank you. I thought that should be the case. Unfortunately I've since replaced all of the O-rings in the metering head with a so-called 'servicing kit.'. They aren't good quality and so now there is no longer any fuel pressure to the injectors. I'm beginning to lose all hope. :-(
Dragos Ciobanu thanks! :-). I was lucky enough to have a spare metering head so I used the o ring from one of the spare adjustment screws that was in good condition. I dont have the dimensions unfortunately but can try and measure one if you need this?
Hi. I have a problem: I was adjusting the balance of fuel for all injectors but injector of cylinder 4 does not change the quantity. The maximum I can reach is 120ml per minute. Injectors are new and the fuel-lines too. So what's the problem? Maybe you know something. Thank you! Its a KR engine.
Hi, I would first try swapping the injector with a different fuel line and see if the problem moves with the injector if that makes sense? That way it will rule out the balancing from the metering head and injector line. If however the same amount of fuel is delivered to the same line that delivered 120ml per minute using a different injector then I would go back and check your balance screws again. This process can take a lot of time with trial and error to get right, and doesnt always make sense as adjusting one line will throw out all the other volumes. So for example, adjusting the screw for the supply to Cylinder 4 will not only affect cylinder 4 fuel delivery, it will effect all other supply lines also. So its a balancing act and only make small changes to the screws at a time and re test. Also, make sure you are measuring all 4 at once so as to compare them all together. Its more about balancing them all evenly. Good luck!
Hi there. I'm dealing with a problem where when I turn the ignition on fuel sprays little from all 4 injectors, I did everything exactly the way you did it. That's without me lifting the plate because you said that at that moment before you lift the plate it should not spray anything...On rest the plate sits way below. I realized that if I turn it anti-clock wise all the way close it would stop leaking when the ignition is on (RELAYS SWAPPED). Obviously now the car won't start because it's all the way closed I'll undo that once I know the exactly what to do. Prior to this It won't idle on it's own unless I keep my foot on the paddle otherwise the engine SPUTTERS then dies...and spark plugs wet covered with fuel. The car was running super rich before idled at about 1200rpm we bought it so I decided to take everything apart n clean it properly, I did fiddle with the main allen adjustable screw. I can't remember how many times I turned it. So It's a 1.8L - 8 Valve Kjet CIS-E 88model VW Golf MK2 GTI...Where should the Sensor Plate be on Idle? What should I adjust I know there's a wire/clip under the plate, not sure what to do there....PLEASE HELP
Buy a bently, i also fiddled with screw fucking myself for a moment. U can try to start, 1/4 turn, try to start, repeat. Till it runs again. Plate has to be at the bottom between that whole 1/8 lip thats at the bottom of the funnel type area.
I ended up getting a new second hand throttle body n ignition coil which did the trick...I also serviced the metering head with new seals etc...Gti runs n pulls great...
1:22 that's my issue, the injectors are spraying without lifting the sensor plate. The plunger is not stuck, and the sensor plate is resting in the right spot. When I start the car, it floods and doesn't idle, but it does rev happy past 4000 rpm. What am I missing?
@@CoffeeEnjoyer69 it's weird to explain this morning I checked it's laying straight with almost no gaps all around...I replaced the lift pump this morning with a universal Bosch in tank pump....because the original pump was also losing pressure, I could even blow through from both sides...still doing the same...I'm puzzled,
I'm not 100% sure to be honest as I didn't measure mine unfortunately, although I have heard people mention on various forums that they get around 170ml per minute for each injector line. Probably best to test the fuel delivery from the main tank pump which I believe should deliver around 2.5ltr per minute for a KJet. I think as long as they are all equal then the metering head is balanced well for fuel delivery.
Thanks 👍🏻 I dont remember the number of turns from the video to be honest... but I just popped out to the garage to check as I have an old metering head sat on the shelf. I checked one of the screws and that was just under 2 1/4 turns to the closed position. Hope this helps.
@@RetroVW thank you mate just watched a wheeler dealers rabbit gti and they rebuilt metering head in that vid and set them a 1.5 turns from closed position mines for a 1.8 8v cabrio cheers dude
renbarturbo nice one! I havent seen that Wheeler Dealers episode yet.. been meaning to watch it. Will have to have a search for it now to see how they rebuild it. Cheers 👍🏻
ive just rebuilt mine was easy just got to get things set up now found a few other issues while doing it and didn't realise id need a pressure gauge to set it back up
renbarturbo I’m thinking of rebuilding my metering head at some point. I’ve heard they can be quite tricky though, but I like a challenge 😀 The fuel pressure guage is handy to check your system and control pressure is within range when setting it back up if you still have running issues, or suspect the WUR has been messed with. If yours was running ok before rebuilding the metering head then you might get away without a guage and just setting that back up after balancing it and setting the CO Good luck with it, hope you manage to get it running right to keep another on the road.
Yea, I think in the end it was a combination of isv and some air leaks in the vacuum lines. So cleaned the isv and replaced the vacuum lines and now it runs alot better 👍🏻
Is it possible to test the pressure arriving at the petrol station with a pressure gauge to verify that the pump is working properly? the pressure must be 6 bar? thanks Stefano
If you are referring to the pressure at the metering head then this will be the System Pressure. I cover this in my K-Jet Fuel Pressure Testing video here: ua-cam.com/video/kukvaGYRRrM/v-deo.html
@@RetroVW however, she made a connection at one point to the plant to also test the enriched regulator. I wanted to test the pressure on the fuel delivery coming from the fuel pump. Do you have a Telegram group where I can post photos? thanks Stefano
And there's me actually driving the car to a petrol station to carry out this test. They didn't half give me some funny looks on the forecourt.....and I nearly left my petrol cap on the roof....
Erik Benocz hi, sorry but I dont know the size of that o ring. I used a spare adjustment screw along with its o ring from a spare metering head that I had.
Correct, to reduce the amount of fuel delivered to that particular injector you turn the screw 'clockwise' (Screw in), and to increase the amount of fuel you have to turn the screw 'anti-clockwise' (Screw out). Just remember, its a balance between all 4 screws so adjusting one port will affect the other 3.
@@RetroVW ok.mate correcto gonna try to do small adjustements and check .and one more question .i need to take off the plug off the warm up regulator and leave it at the presure off 1.5 bar?our leave the plug to warm it up to 3.4?and them start the mesure off the injectors?
@@carlosfreitas2692 I didn't disconnect my warm up regulator during the injector flow rate test, so left the engine to get to temperature and then tested the amount of fuel to balance the system across all 4 injectors. You can then also check system pressure and Control pressure using a Gauge between the metering head and the warm up regulator as a separate task. I have another video here ua-cam.com/video/kukvaGYRRrM/v-deo.html which explains this process.
@@RetroVW yeah mate i did it tenks alot .now my car is ok .i made my own cauge sistem and check the pressures .are ok .and all injectors now are fine .tenks for the help
Thanks for making this video. Please join the Mk2 16V Facebook Group. We need people like you to help this community keep their 16vs on the road: facebook.com/groups/mk216v
So the thing is this. In the factory they remove the injectors, and hook the fuel lines to clear plastic cylinders that have a metal float that travels up and down when the screws are turned in/out. That' how they balance the ports inside the fuel distributor. They just want to make sure that even amount of fuel exits each port. Then they pressure test all the fuel injectors and group those that open up at certain fuel pressure and spray equal amount of fuel. Then they install them into the car. They can do this because they have million of fuel injectors on hand and they can run thru and pick the best ones. We can't do that or it will bankrupt us. Adjusting the fuel exit port screws did nothing for me when I tried to balance the fuel injectors. I took the fuel distributor apart three times making sure there wasn't any fuel blockage. I even took out the four fuel filters in the exit ports thinking it was one of the fuel filters causing blockage and resulting in one injector spraying less. Then when that didn't work, I removed the bad injector and moved it to another fuel line and all the sudden that injector was now spraying well. Then some others didn't spray well anymore. So the whole system was thrown off just by moving one injector around. Try it and you'll see the same. So the conclusion is that it's the fuel injectors themselves that are causing the fuel imbalance problems and you'll need bosch or some other make fuel injector pressure tester and match four good injectors to each other. I bought four new injectors and only two were close to each other and the others way off so I had to reuse some of the old injectors to balance the fuel flow. Luckily they don't have to be balanced all that well for the car to run.
So the takeaway from this is that the fuel exit port adjustment screws do work with balancing the fuel injectors but only if those injectors are initially balanced to each other or when you're using the factory installed fuel injectors which were balanced by factory. If you're buying new fuel injectors then you'll need to ask the shop to give you the four that are a close match. There is nothing you can do to the springs inside the fuel injectors trying to adjust their tension as the whole injector is one sealed unit. These cars run great when new but overtime the wear in the springs, etc. will cause an imbalance problems as the car ages as it's all mechanical. I prefer my 1989 ford escort's single electronic fuel injector ie. throttle body injector, as it's very reliable and dead easy to work on. Volkswagen had the electronic injectors back then as evidenced by the cold start injector or the lambda frequency valve installed on 1982 jetta but probably didn't have the electronics to make it work or the electronics were too expensive. That would be my guess.
Great video, could you make one where you adjust the idle? Timing, air screw and CO. Maybe other things to look for that effect idle like the ISV, grounds, etc.
Getting the idle right on these could be such a pain. Thanks
Great video! Thank you.
Hi mate, any ideas why fuel would be coming out without touching the metering flap?
What is the exact size of the o-rings for the flow adjustment screws?
Ah that's the sound of the four Banshees.......
Can you advise on best way of removing injectors if they are being difficult?
Where can I buy new Injection Lines for my KR? thanks!
When you lift the sensor plate, how far up does it normally move before fuel starts coming out of the injectors? Mine seems to come up about 1/4" before I can feel it pushing on the metering head's pin. I'm sure it shouldn't have this much play! Thank you for the video - I'll definitely use this method to balance them, once I can get it to stay running.
I seem to recall there was resistance from the metering head pin as soon as I began to lift the sensor plate from its rest position and I immediately started to hear the injectors whine. I would check that your metering head is properly seated on top of the airbox as theres normally an o-ring that fits to the base of the fuel metering unit to seal it against the air box. If this is to large or twisted then it could be that the metering head is sitting too high up on the airbox and therefore raising the pin too high from the sensor plate arm.
Another thing is to check the CO adjustment screw that sits in the hole just between the fuel metering head unit and the large rubber boot which runs to the intake. It could be that this CO Adjustment screw is incorrectly adjusted as you say you cant get it to stay running. I forget which way you turn it but I think if you screw it in clockwise it enriches the fuel mixture, and anticlockwise leans it out. This essentially adjusts the amount of distance between the air plate sensor arm and the Metering head pin so that the ratio of air being drawn into the intake is correct to the amount of fuel being drawn by the pressure on the Metering head pin. Again theres a section in the Haynes manual to explain how to set this and ideally you need a gas analyser to measure the CO from your exhaust to get it setup right.
Good luck!
@@RetroVW Thank you. I thought that should be the case. Unfortunately I've since replaced all of the O-rings in the metering head with a so-called 'servicing kit.'. They aren't good quality and so now there is no longer any fuel pressure to the injectors. I'm beginning to lose all hope. :-(
Very useful video, it helped me alot. Do you remember the dimensions or the original code for the o ring you used for the adjusting screw?
Dragos Ciobanu thanks! :-). I was lucky enough to have a spare metering head so I used the o ring from one of the spare adjustment screws that was in good condition. I dont have the dimensions unfortunately but can try and measure one if you need this?
Scusa o un problema con i miei iniettori del mio kr2 cosa mi consigli
Hi. I have a problem: I was adjusting the balance of fuel for all injectors but injector of cylinder 4 does not change the quantity. The maximum I can reach is 120ml per minute. Injectors are new and the fuel-lines too. So what's the problem? Maybe you know something. Thank you!
Its a KR engine.
Hi, I would first try swapping the injector with a different fuel line and see if the problem moves with the injector if that makes sense? That way it will rule out the balancing from the metering head and injector line. If however the same amount of fuel is delivered to the same line that delivered 120ml per minute using a different injector then I would go back and check your balance screws again.
This process can take a lot of time with trial and error to get right, and doesnt always make sense as adjusting one line will throw out all the other volumes. So for example, adjusting the screw for the supply to Cylinder 4 will not only affect cylinder 4 fuel delivery, it will effect all other supply lines also. So its a balancing act and only make small changes to the screws at a time and re test.
Also, make sure you are measuring all 4 at once so as to compare them all together. Its more about balancing them all evenly.
Good luck!
My 16v golf is rich all the time, is this what I need to do to solve?
can you make a Video how to put the injectors put out of the engine?
Hi there. I'm dealing with a problem where when I turn the ignition on fuel sprays little from all 4 injectors, I did everything exactly the way you did it. That's without me lifting the plate because you said that at that moment before you lift the plate it should not spray anything...On rest the plate sits way below. I realized that if I turn it anti-clock wise all the way close it would stop leaking when the ignition is on (RELAYS SWAPPED). Obviously now the car won't start because it's all the way closed I'll undo that once I know the exactly what to do. Prior to this It won't idle on it's own unless I keep my foot on the paddle otherwise the engine SPUTTERS then dies...and spark plugs wet covered with fuel.
The car was running super rich before idled at about 1200rpm we bought it so I decided to take everything apart n clean it properly, I did fiddle with the main allen adjustable screw. I can't remember how many times I turned it. So It's a 1.8L - 8 Valve Kjet CIS-E 88model VW Golf MK2 GTI...Where should the Sensor Plate be on Idle? What should I adjust I know there's a wire/clip under the plate, not sure what to do there....PLEASE HELP
Buy a bently, i also fiddled with screw fucking myself for a moment. U can try to start, 1/4 turn, try to start, repeat. Till it runs again. Plate has to be at the bottom between that whole 1/8 lip thats at the bottom of the funnel type area.
I ended up getting a new second hand throttle body n ignition coil which did the trick...I also serviced the metering head with new seals etc...Gti runs n pulls great...
1:22 that's my issue, the injectors are spraying without lifting the sensor plate. The plunger is not stuck, and the sensor plate is resting in the right spot. When I start the car, it floods and doesn't idle, but it does rev happy past 4000 rpm. What am I missing?
Change the live relay for tne non as described in video
I'm having the same exact same issue, Did you sort it out and what did you do, If you don't mind helping me Please?
@@jonb4667 the piece on on the bottom that holds the plunger was holding it up too high
@@jonb4667 *too low, so basically the plunger was open before even pressing the throttle
@@CoffeeEnjoyer69 it's weird to explain this morning I checked it's laying straight with almost no gaps all around...I replaced the lift pump this morning with a universal Bosch in tank pump....because the original pump was also losing pressure, I could even blow through from both sides...still doing the same...I'm puzzled,
how much fuel does it must come out the line in 1 minute? thanks!
I'm not 100% sure to be honest as I didn't measure mine unfortunately, although I have heard people mention on various forums that they get around 170ml per minute for each injector line. Probably best to test the fuel delivery from the main tank pump which I believe should deliver around 2.5ltr per minute for a KJet.
I think as long as they are all equal then the metering head is balanced well for fuel delivery.
thank you for your quick reply.
Hi great vid how many turns from closed is a good starting point for setting the injector balance as a starting point
Thanks 👍🏻
I dont remember the number of turns from the video to be honest... but I just popped out to the garage to check as I have an old metering head sat on the shelf.
I checked one of the screws and that was just under 2 1/4 turns to the closed position.
Hope this helps.
@@RetroVW thank you mate just watched a wheeler dealers rabbit gti and they rebuilt metering head in that vid and set them a 1.5 turns from closed position mines for a 1.8 8v cabrio cheers dude
renbarturbo nice one! I havent seen that Wheeler Dealers episode yet.. been meaning to watch it.
Will have to have a search for it now to see how they rebuild it.
Cheers 👍🏻
ive just rebuilt mine was easy just got to get things set up now found a few other issues while doing it and didn't realise id need a pressure gauge to set it back up
renbarturbo I’m thinking of rebuilding my metering head at some point. I’ve heard they can be quite tricky though, but I like a challenge 😀
The fuel pressure guage is handy to check your system and control pressure is within range when setting it back up if you still have running issues, or suspect the WUR has been messed with.
If yours was running ok before rebuilding the metering head then you might get away without a guage and just setting that back up after balancing it and setting the CO
Good luck with it, hope you manage to get it running right to keep another on the road.
Hey man, what did you do to sort the high idle issue? Was it your ISV?
Yea, I think in the end it was a combination of isv and some air leaks in the vacuum lines. So cleaned the isv and replaced the vacuum lines and now it runs alot better 👍🏻
Is it possible to test the pressure arriving at the petrol station with a pressure gauge to verify that the pump is working properly? the pressure must be 6 bar? thanks Stefano
If you are referring to the pressure at the metering head then this will be the System Pressure. I cover this in my K-Jet Fuel Pressure Testing video here:
ua-cam.com/video/kukvaGYRRrM/v-deo.html
@@RetroVW however, she made a connection at one point to the plant to also test the enriched regulator. I wanted to test the pressure on the fuel delivery coming from the fuel pump. Do you have a Telegram group where I can post photos? thanks Stefano
And there's me actually driving the car to a petrol station to carry out this test. They didn't half give me some funny looks on the forecourt.....and I nearly left my petrol cap on the roof....
Please the number o ring in 3:20 in the video. Well thank you
Erik Benocz hi, sorry but I dont know the size of that o ring. I used a spare adjustment screw along with its o ring from a spare metering head that I had.
Hey to give more gazoline to the injector you put out the screew?and to close the gazoline you put the screew deeper right?
Correct, to reduce the amount of fuel delivered to that particular injector you turn the screw 'clockwise' (Screw in), and to increase the amount of fuel you have to turn the screw 'anti-clockwise' (Screw out).
Just remember, its a balance between all 4 screws so adjusting one port will affect the other 3.
@@RetroVW ok.mate correcto gonna try to do small adjustements and check .and one more question .i need to take off the plug off the warm up regulator and leave it at the presure off 1.5 bar?our leave the plug to warm it up to 3.4?and them start the mesure off the injectors?
@@carlosfreitas2692 I didn't disconnect my warm up regulator during the injector flow rate test, so left the engine to get to temperature and then tested the amount of fuel to balance the system across all 4 injectors.
You can then also check system pressure and Control pressure using a Gauge between the metering head and the warm up regulator as a separate task. I have another video here ua-cam.com/video/kukvaGYRRrM/v-deo.html which explains this process.
@@RetroVW yeah mate i did it tenks alot .now my car is ok .i made my own cauge sistem and check the pressures .are ok .and all injectors now are fine .tenks for the help
@@carlosfreitas2692 nice one mate 👍🏻 glad you’ve sorted it 😀
Thanks for making this video. Please join the Mk2 16V Facebook Group. We need people like you to help this community keep their 16vs on the road: facebook.com/groups/mk216v
Thanks Larry! I will check it out.
@@RetroVWVery weel ! thank. in order to lower the flow it is necessary to turn in which direction?
Christian M 74 to lower the flow you need to turn the screw clockwise. 👍🏻
Only turn them in very small increments at a time and re test.
Mierda si que es gastador los motores vw