Thanks for making this video! Woke up this morning to a freezing cold house and that sound coming from the basement. You saved me a lot of time and money.
Glad I found this video. Mine started making noise today. I have a service contract with the gas company, so they will replace this for me for free, but in the mean time I just switched it to manual and the noise stopped. from the looks of it, mine is stuck in the open position.
Awesome thank you brother! My wife and 5 kids are freezing and I found the issue, but didn’t know you could lock it open safely temporarily. Thank you and may God bless
"Do you hear that buzzing sound?" Yes, yes I do. I also was searching for a replacement when your video popped up in the search. Not only was the video helpful, but it was also concise and thorough. I can now hold off until spring before I do the replacement. I kind of doubt there will be replaceable parts and with issues like this (potential flue problems are nothing to mess with) I opt for replacement. Mine is 11 years old and I'm guessing that's about the service life for this model. My wife is thrilled and thinks you're the greatest.
You're wife is a great judge of character! But really, I'm glad the video was helpful in giving you a sense of ease about being able to wait till the spring.
Just got home from a trip, fired up the Googler and your vid was the first one I watched to try to solve this. It's also the last one because you helped me fix it. Thank you!
Thanks for the video, definitely helped. However, taking it a step further and disassembling the motor assembly the sound is not gears. There are no gears in there, just a motor and a cam to hit the cutoff switch. That sound is actually the relay that turns on the motor. I figured that one out after I disassembled it, unplugged the motor and the sound was still there. If you can solder you can find the relay on eBay (part number is right on it) for about three bucks... As opposed to the $90 assembly.
That's good to know. I had looked at taking the motor apart, but it seemed I wouldn't be able to get inside it without destroying the cover. I'll have to have another look because I still have the motor and it would be good to have as a backup in the event the replacement I bought fails. Thanks!
Great explanation and fix! Mine was clicking, not a high pitched noise, but still, the flue was closed, and boiler wouldn't light. I took needle nose pliers and turned it 90 degrees. It didn't do anything at all for about 10 minutes. Then, all of a sudden the igniter clicked, the gas lit, and now it's running. For sure I'm going to replace the unit, and maybe vacuum out the flue. Who knows? There could be a dead mouse in there. Thanks for the great tip.
Awesome explanation. Can you make a video about the draft inducer or the fan-motor assembly that comes after the vent damper placed at the end of the pipe and takes the carbon monoxide out of the house? Curious how you take that out and clean it. Thank you.
Just move the switch from auto to manual and then back to auto and it should work. If it is stubborn shut off your thermostat or turn it all the way down for a minute or two then turn it back on and reset the thermostat temperature. Cycle the switch on the damper again and it should work. Get the damper replaced asap or diy but research damper R&R and follow all safety precautions. Best of luck!
Even though this could be a life saver to someone in a bind and a freezing house, I wouldn’t call this video a fix. I’d call it a band-aid until the damper can be replaced.
Im not good at describing but ill try 400 dollars later. This video was great and comments from people so helpful. My furnace where flu is attached instead of trying with needle nose plier close to blue box which has limited accessibility look behind where flu goes in large silver tube to back. There us a protruding nut you can easlily see and turn clockwise until flu turns open. Vertical ill call it. I had my thermostat set for 70 it was 52 in home after 2 days in NE no heat. Once that opened heat immediately came on. I wanted to disconnect blue damper/flu causing the problem and two screws 12 and 6 oclock on assembly took it right off damper so now it will stay open. Took less five minutes. But do your own research im no expert but hired ones. And one listened. Ordered new assembly
I'm not sure what you mean by "bypass them." The flue itself? That I wouldn't know or likely recommend since the purpose is to carry away harmful gases.
@@HomesteadDIY Sorry for not being clear. im referring to the wiring which color should i connect together so that the i can remove the damper motor and the valve since my motor always malfunction and the motor is expensive too replace.
@@dy3dsl648 Ah! Yeah, that's a little different, but also way above my pay grade. I wouldn't want to give you wrong information and have you electrocute yourself. With that said, I'd imagine if you're going to remove the entire unit, turning the power off at the breaker panel will let you disassemble the unit safely after which you'd have to insert a replacement length of pipe to make up the difference. Capping off the remain wires with wire nuts and electrical tape ought to protect you from any shorts once you restore power should work. Personally, I'd say manually moving the motor to the open position as demonstrated in the video and leaving it there would be the safer alternative and just as effective as removing it.
Not yet! I've actually placed the motor in the manual mode (yeah, I got tired of going up and down the stairs to turn the shaft). I'm waiting for the spring, then I'm going to try and repair it. If I can't, then I'm going to get a replacement motor to install. I'm pretty sure It's going to be an easy swap if it comes to it, but that won't be for another month or so. And FWIW, I haven't noticed any difference with the furnace operating in the manual mode.
RuggedHomestead I replaced my motor today. (Same blue housing & model) on my Penn Co boiler. It may have been sticking previously but I didn’t notice until the heat didn’t seem like it was turning on. I live in NY & the part ranged from about $90 on eBay & Amazon to $150 at a part supplier in my city. Once the blue plastic cover was off, there wasn’t really any way to replace a piece of the switch. My system is about 12 years old. I know the damper motor is at least 5 years old if not 12. (There was a maintenance contract for it, so I don’t know if anything was replaced w/o knowing.)
Thanks for making this video! Woke up this morning to a freezing cold house and that sound coming from the basement. You saved me a lot of time and money.
Glad it helped! Cheers
Glad I found this video. Mine started making noise today. I have a service contract with the gas company, so they will replace this for me for free, but in the mean time I just switched it to manual and the noise stopped. from the looks of it, mine is stuck in the open position.
Smart move on the service contract. I've been thinking about getting one myself
After a few days my vent damper motor stopped working completely, so don't let this condition fester. Thanks for the video.
Awesome thank you brother! My wife and 5 kids are freezing and I found the issue, but didn’t know you could lock it open safely temporarily. Thank you and may God bless
"Do you hear that buzzing sound?" Yes, yes I do. I also was searching for a replacement when your video popped up in the search.
Not only was the video helpful, but it was also concise and thorough. I can now hold off until spring before I do the replacement. I kind of doubt there will be replaceable parts and with issues like this (potential flue problems are nothing to mess with) I opt for replacement. Mine is 11 years old and I'm guessing that's about the service life for this model.
My wife is thrilled and thinks you're the greatest.
You're wife is a great judge of character! But really, I'm glad the video was helpful in giving you a sense of ease about being able to wait till the spring.
Just got home from a trip, fired up the Googler and your vid was the first one I watched to try to solve this. It's also the last one because you helped me fix it. Thank you!
Great! Glad it helped
Thank you this worked for me after 3days of no heat…. We had to put space heaters in room…….I was having exact problem….. thank you again….🙏🏽
Thanks for the video, definitely helped. However, taking it a step further and disassembling the motor assembly the sound is not gears. There are no gears in there, just a motor and a cam to hit the cutoff switch. That sound is actually the relay that turns on the motor. I figured that one out after I disassembled it, unplugged the motor and the sound was still there. If you can solder you can find the relay on eBay (part number is right on it) for about three bucks... As opposed to the $90 assembly.
That's good to know. I had looked at taking the motor apart, but it seemed I wouldn't be able to get inside it without destroying the cover. I'll have to have another look because I still have the motor and it would be good to have as a backup in the event the replacement I bought fails. Thanks!
Mine wasn't even turned on, solved the flue smell coming in the house ! Thankyou x2 !
Glad you found it helpful! Cheers!
Great explanation and fix! Mine was clicking, not a high pitched noise, but still, the flue was closed, and boiler wouldn't light. I took needle nose pliers and turned it 90 degrees. It didn't do anything at all for about 10 minutes. Then, all of a sudden the igniter clicked, the gas lit, and now it's running. For sure I'm going to replace the unit, and maybe vacuum out the flue. Who knows? There could be a dead mouse in there. Thanks for the great tip.
Finally , i found the solution, thanks so much for your video, very precise and detail explained.
Glad it could be of help.
Awesome explanation. Can you make a video about the draft inducer or the fan-motor assembly that comes after the vent damper placed at the end of the pipe and takes the carbon monoxide out of the house? Curious how you take that out and clean it. Thank you.
Thank you! You helped us getting our heat up and running again!
Awesome! I'm glad it worked for you too. Cheers!
Thanks for your thorough and easy to follow explanation.
Hope it helped
Can you turn on and off the flames by turning that damper by hand
Thank you. This was very helpful.
Glad you found it helpful!
Good looking....video was right onpoint.
Thankyou this help me fix my humming noise...worked perfectly
Glad it helped!
My Is doing the same, but my furnace is off, it's summer. What could it be??
This was just what I need thanks so much!!
Glad it helped
Just move the switch from auto to manual and then back to auto and it should work. If it is stubborn shut off your thermostat or turn it all the way down for a minute or two then turn it back on and reset the thermostat temperature. Cycle the switch on the damper again and it should work. Get the damper replaced asap or diy but research damper R&R and follow all safety precautions. Best of luck!
Even though this could be a life saver to someone in a bind and a freezing house, I wouldn’t call this video a fix. I’d call it a band-aid until the damper can be replaced.
Normally I'd say you are 100% correct, but because you're a Brewers fan and I'm a Yankees fan, all I can say is get outta here! :)
You are the best!
This was so helpful. Thank you!
You're welcome. Glad you found it useful
When I did that mine stays on all the time with the flames 🔥…. I have to shut the whole thing off by hand
Im not good at describing but ill try 400 dollars later. This video was great and comments from people so helpful. My furnace where flu is attached instead of trying with needle nose plier close to blue box which has limited accessibility look behind where flu goes in large silver tube to back. There us a protruding nut you can easlily see and turn clockwise until flu turns open. Vertical ill call it. I had my thermostat set for 70 it was 52 in home after 2 days in NE no heat. Once that opened heat immediately came on. I wanted to disconnect blue damper/flu causing the problem and two screws 12 and 6 oclock on assembly took it right off damper so now it will stay open. Took less five minutes. But do your own research im no expert but hired ones. And one listened. Ordered new assembly
can you send the link for the motor? I can't find it on supply house
This is the one I got:
www.supplyhouse.com/Aprilaire-6993-Flexible-Link-Replacement-Damper-Motor
Can you do a video on damper repairs?
That's probably beyond my expertise, but if I have to end up doing so, you can be sure I'll record it. Cheers!
Thank you 🙏
Thank you! Solved my problem.
Who do u call to get this replaced?
I’d find an HVAC company though many plumbers do offer that service
Do you know how to by pass them?
I'm not sure what you mean by "bypass them." The flue itself? That I wouldn't know or likely recommend since the purpose is to carry away harmful gases.
@@HomesteadDIY Sorry for not being clear. im referring to the wiring which color should i connect together so that the i can remove the damper motor and the valve since my motor always malfunction and the motor is expensive too replace.
@@dy3dsl648 Ah! Yeah, that's a little different, but also way above my pay grade. I wouldn't want to give you wrong information and have you electrocute yourself. With that said, I'd imagine if you're going to remove the entire unit, turning the power off at the breaker panel will let you disassemble the unit safely after which you'd have to insert a replacement length of pipe to make up the difference. Capping off the remain wires with wire nuts and electrical tape ought to protect you from any shorts once you restore power should work. Personally, I'd say manually moving the motor to the open position as demonstrated in the video and leaving it there would be the safer alternative and just as effective as removing it.
Exactly my problem. Thank you.
You're welcome! Glad you found it useful
My mother was going to pay someone $765 to replace hers. Same model too.. *facepalm* Have you bought the replacement yet by any chance?
Not yet! I've actually placed the motor in the manual mode (yeah, I got tired of going up and down the stairs to turn the shaft). I'm waiting for the spring, then I'm going to try and repair it. If I can't, then I'm going to get a replacement motor to install. I'm pretty sure It's going to be an easy swap if it comes to it, but that won't be for another month or so. And FWIW, I haven't noticed any difference with the furnace operating in the manual mode.
RuggedHomestead I replaced my motor today. (Same blue housing & model) on my Penn Co boiler. It may have been sticking previously but I didn’t notice until the heat didn’t seem like it was turning on.
I live in NY & the part ranged from about $90 on eBay & Amazon to $150 at a part supplier in my city.
Once the blue plastic cover was off, there wasn’t really any way to replace a piece of the switch. My system is about 12 years old. I know the damper motor is at least 5 years old if not 12. (There was a maintenance contract for it, so I don’t know if anything was replaced w/o knowing.)
Thank you!!!!!
Very helpful !! Thank you.
Awesome! Glad it helped.
Thank you this helped with mine.
Awesome! Glad it helped!
Thank you.
You’re welcome!
My damper goes to open positions still the controller lights flashes. There's must be malfunction
Yeah, most electronics are beyond my circle of competence
@@HomesteadDIY did u install vent damper in open or closed position
Loved it thanks
Thanks you helped me fix my problem
Glad I could be of service!
Ty very much, saved me 250
Glad it helped!
Muchas gracias 😊 youuuuu the man 👨🙏🏽💪🏽
Your the man
Thanks!
Sounds like a chattering relay not motor. Check the limit switches and relay. Most likely flakey limit switches causing the relay to chatter.
solve my problem good video
there was nothing fixed.
Well, the buzzing sound was "repaired" and for most that's enough of a fix even if it's not a permanent solution. Cheers!
Put it in M and leave it be forever. Not worth the hassle for single digit efficiency.
1%
Thank you
You're welcome!