Are YOU Making These Top 5 Swarm Trapping Mistakes?
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
- Learn our top 5 swarm trapping mistakes and see if you are making any of them. If you are, a few changes to your swarm trapping approach could mean a huge increase in the number of swarms you trap each season.
Make this your best swarm trapping season yet!
Resources:
Swarm Science Advanced Swarm Lure: swarmsciencelures.com/product...
Or buy Swarm Science on Amazon: www.amazon.com/Swarm-Science-...
Ventilated bee jacket or suit:
comfortprosuits.com/product/c...
The Lives of Bees:
www.amazon.com/Lives-Bees-Unt...
Honey Bee Democracy:
www.amazon.com/Honeybee-Democ...
All legitimate reasons!
Several years ago I started using 8 frame and 10 frame deeps with attached bottom boards as swarm traps. I haven't looked back as this has proven very successful. As a bonus, I don't have to transfer the swarms to other boxes. The traps become their permanent homes.
Another mistake is not to secure the ladder and dropping the hive without a beesuit on.
Hey, a very nicely put together presentation. I appreciate your getting to the point while delivering only the crucial details and also giving us what’s possible vs what’s realistic. 🐝🐝
One thing I'd add is to have your swarm box tethered shut. I like to screw on the bottom and strap the top down. It makes it easier to pull the trap down.
Thank you. Vey valuable information for someone just starting out in beekeeping and looking to build his and hers’ Apiary.
Thank you
Having a rotating beehive entrance gate is very useful when you need to move the swarm. ie - sneak up on the trap at dusk, turn the door to the vent position. No fuss.
I did 4 cutouts last year two in houses entrances about 9 ft. maybe 10 at most one in water meter box in the ground and one in a tree with about a foot of FULLY exposed comb and bees right on the ground the hive went up the in the tree about 5-6 ft. Near as i could tell they were all feral colony's. They can and will land where they chose. I think what he is saying is averagely speaking they are found at the 15 ft. level, I don't advocate telling others to dangle off a ladder to put up or remove witch is even harder, If one choses to do that than more power to you. PS really liked the video.
I've caught swarms 2 feet off the ground in August and successfully over wintered them.
Sure can, and I say that, but I tell people it's like saying you can catch a fish with a bare hook, sure can, and it's been done, but I like to use bait. Same with tapping bees, I believe if you want to increase the number of swarms you catch you should use the bees natural behaviors.
I know you mentioned height of a swarm trap but, how do you pick a location, location, location ?
How long should you leave them in the trap if all you had was foundationless frames before you move them to a new nuc box?
I would like to know how close you can get to existing beehives with your swarm traps. Thanks much. Also, where is your location and what is swarm season for YOU?
If you add frames with comb, does it not attract wax moths to move in?
Good question! While it is definitely a bit of a risk, we have not had this issue. One reason is with the comb and the swarm lure it is rare that the trap sits more than a week or two before having a swarm move on. Now that it's summer and the swarms have slowed that is a n increased risk. The comb we use is ole comb we would not be sad to loose honestly. One way to prevent the risk of wax moths is using Bt, which is a naturally occuring bacteria that does not hurt or contaminate the cone but will kill wax moth larva if they eat it. It is a fairly newly approved wax moth prevention method but it is great for protecting comb without contaminating the wax. It would work the same in a swarm trap as it does during winter storage to protect the comb.
@@BeekeepingUniversity Thanks, in the last month I have lost three hives and when opening them I always find is wax moths larva in the hives, I'm in Central Florida.
I have two hives now, I want to add a swarm trap to my property with attractant. Will this negativly effect my hives?
No, you may just catch a swarm of your own bees (and not loose them).
No, you won't negatively impact your bees. Your bees will not be enticed to swarm because you have a swarm trap there, they will swarm based on conditions in the colony itself. Sometimes your own bees will swarm and bypass your trap as their instinct is to spread out from the parent colony, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't put one out. Happy Trapping!
@@BeekeepingUniversity - Placing your swarm trap(s) on the other side of the property and not close to the existing apiary would help, wouldn't it?
Good episode, thank you.
I came to the conclusion that bees want to see a bit of open space,when inspecting a new location.Cobus🐳
Yes I agree, when they finaly move, they need quick a lot of space
Bee swarm lures, often called swarm traps or bait hives, are used to attract bee swarms. The lure often contains a few key ingredients:
1. **Lemongrass Oil**: Lemongrass oil contains naturally occurring pheromones that are similar to those produced by honeybees. This scent can help to attract scout bees to the trap.
2. **Old Bee Hive Material**: Pieces of old bee hives, such as beeswax or propolis, can also attract bees. They can smell the previous hive's scent and may decide to move in because the location has been successful for bees before.
3. **Queen Pheromones**: Some beekeepers use synthetic queen pheromones. These can attract swarms because the scent indicates that a queen bee is present, which is a necessary component for a new hive.
4. **Suitable Box**: While not an ingredient per se, the box or trap itself is part of the lure. Ideally, it should be the approximate size of a small beehive and placed somewhere high off the ground with an easily accessible entrance.
Remember, the success of a bee swarm lure can depend on several factors including timing, weather, and local bee populations.
The #1 mistake is using too much lure. The swarms hang on the outside but do not enter.
Height doesn’t make any difference. None of my swarm traps are higher than six feet. I caught 25 swarms last year.
That is great, yes you definitely do not HAVE to go higher if you are getting the swarms you need. With that said, if you did not have traps high and low can you say there is no difference? Or rather can you simply say you have found no need to put your traps higher than 6 feet because you get all the swarms you need with your current set up?
@@BeekeepingUniversity - good point. I am a newbee, still going through my first year. I am planning on setting swarm traps at various heights, just to experiment. I believe that is part of the learning curve.
Jim Weaver, 25 swarms?! I want to hear how you do it.
This is a great video, btw.
The first mistake is “it’s not a trap”….. no bees get trapped inside, surely a trap traps things? It’s a bait hive…….
Actually once they move in I close them up so they can't get out (trust me they feel trapped at this point :) and take them with me to which ever bee yard I want to put them in. So I actually do trap them in a way, just not instantly like other "traps" might. But I have no problem with the term bait hive either. Happy Trapping....or bait hiving! :)