@@rhymecyphaYou can make your own with old plastic model sprues (or any similar plastic like 3D Printer filament) and plastic cement. Just cut up your old sprues or other plastic material and dissolve it in the plastic cement. You can also use epoxy or epoxy putty like miliput or green stuff.
Great work here buddy, it turned out so well! Thanks for the shout-out! ❤ Cool 'mini' too, that's my type of assemble process! Clip in parts... the dream 😊
An important note for your viewers that you must disable "make overhangs printable" in your slicer since that will fuse or seal many of the hinges and slots. Found out the hard way.
The Falcon is a nice touch in understanding perspective; seeing people stand next to the Falcon in the movies and at Disneyland, and then seeing the mini-piece next to the ISD, a mile-long ship, a human size is a tip of a ballpoint pen here
Hey. Just as a tip from someone who builds Star Wars models. The best results I’ve gotten are black prime and then a few thin white coats either airbrush or rattlecan. It’s a fairly standard star ship scheme that works for Star Wars. In the movies the star destroyers are actually white, not grey.
Oh wow, this repository is awesome! Never would’ve found it without this vid. I love that I don’t have to think twice about printing some of these more complicated models with how reliable printers are getting nowadays, def gonna give em a try! Star destroyer build came out great btw
Love the look of this print when done! When looking for strength I’d 100% go with more walls than higher infill. Think some other UA-camr did a video on it before, CNC kitchen maybe?
I made some hooks for bath towels with like 6 walls and 10% infill and I could NOT for the life of me break the hooks, as hard as I tried, it was super strong.
A texture palette for dry brushing is such a game changer, the reason is because if you use a paper towel or something similar it pulls all the moisture out of the paint and you end up with a chalky looking finish.
I’ve printed this out myself a while back. Nice to see 365 getting a shout out. Problem now is that since I’ve seen it scaled up and printed in black with dry brushing…..
Drybrushing is more about the control of moisture. You don't actually want the brush to be dry. That's why Artis Opus uses a non-absorbent surface, as you want to keep moisture in the brush. You'll notice the small sponge he also uses to keep it moist.
Yeah I have zero idea what I’m doing 🤣😂 but was having fun trying it all. I had a wet paper towel I’d occasionally use but no where near as good as his.
Only like halfway through this video, and it's been incredibly informative and included things I really thought would be useful for future prints! Really cool and thank you!
Fantastic video like always! I'm currently in the market for a new 3D printer but with all the choices out there, which one would best fit my needs? I am looking to produce very large tall prints. I love the high detail of the resin printers but I do not like the chemicals or the limited size. This is probably a dumb question but I'll ask it anyway. Is there an extra large FDM printer that can produce the quality or close to it of a resin printer? If not, what filament would give the best results for minimizing layer lines? Which nozzle size gives the best detail again by limiting layer lines? What layer height also gives the best detail? Which slicing software is the one you would recommend depending on the printer type you suggest? I saw your videos on the Elegoo's Neptune 3 Max & 4 Max but I am hesitant to buy either. I also saw the Creality CR-10 S5 and the like and now I am more confused than ever. Please shed some light into the printer, filament and slicing software I should focus on, thank you.
Awesome print and thanks for sharing the build and finishing up process. I do have questions on settings that you use for such large prints to stick to bed for so long. Do you use any bed adhesion glue?
Thanks for posting this video! I'm just getting into 3d printing, and the Neptune plus is my first printer. I'm giving this one a go, since it looks like a great model without worrying about supports. I'm using orca slicer, and I notice the settings he gives on his site don't match up with orca. Which slicer did you use for this print?
Arguably my favourite ship from the Star Wars universe... lovely job on the paint. I imagine with the snap together nature it might make it a bit easier (with some pre-planning) to put some LEDs in there?
Nice work! Massive Fab365 fan here, been doing some of their fighter planes and smaller SW ships at 150% lately myself. I think some of the construction vehickes might be next. Go big or go home! :D
After watching this I ordered two rolls of that filament. Looks amazing. I’m currently printing at 220c on my x1c and it looks pretty gloss. What temp were you printing??
Awesome looking model and dry brush effect, my only criticism would be that while it might make sense to paint the individual sections as it might make it easier it also means that you will have sections of the ship that are not exactly the same color at the join lines like we can see in the video where you see large sections that are light then the hard join line and on the other segment it has a large darker grey color, when dry brushing it is better to assemble it first so that you can get a consistent color over the various segments
@julianking3847 How big did it turn out? I got the AT-AT file as well. I would really like it about the size of the old Kenner ones. Any idea of the best size to scale it at to match that size?
I have a Neptune 4 plus. If I download the file into orca did you have to change settings for it to print for the elegoo? I've had some issues with some files and still learning how to use orca, bern using the slicer that came with the elegoo and it almost never messes up. Great video and man that's an awesome print and great finished model, you are very knowledgeable for sure.
Prints look amazing I have been going back and forth on replacing my ender5plus but the Neptune 4 max I have heard problems finding replacement nozzles and shopping around for hardened ones or even replacement of the copper ones. thoughts?
I printed the Millennium Falcon and Tie Interceptor from him on my Ender 3 Pro as well as the stands for them. They turned out great. I did have problems with the foldable print in place files that he has as my settings weren't exactly dialed in. I'm eager to try this one on my Ender 3 V3 SE with auto bed leveling and auto z offset. I took some time the other day dialing in my e-steps and flow rate so it should be good to go.
I've always done infill percentages. What do you usually do for wall count to make it stronger? That might be an interesting option to use with Lightning infill.
Really cool looking. It would be an excellent proxy for playing Star Wars Armada. Not sure what scale the model is at to figure out where to scale it for the game.
Never knew about their site, some cool stuff on there, thanks! After having a quick look, how are they charging for models that aren't theirs? That Michelangelo sculpture looks like the free one from that scan project a few years back.
Took my fan off the Neptune 4 Plus first week. Even at 250mm/s no difference. I suspect its pointless sub 300mm/s speeds. I actually think it cools the bed too much and causes more problems with bed adhesion.
I printed this model on Bambu's orca slicer and had the same loose fitting issue. Their print settings are from prusa I'm not sure how much how much it affects the fit.
may i make a suggestion, for dry brushing use much much less paint than you did... the brush is really almost dry devoid of paint. but over all for your first time not too shabby.
Reinforcing the stand with support was a really good idea. And I know what I'm talking about. I printed the model scaled to 200% and after about 2 weeks the top part of the stand simply broke off and my Star Destroyer fell to the ground. Luckily there was no serious damage. The support point is poorly chosen for this model. Too far away from the center of gravity. I then designed my own stand where the model lies on 2 V-shaped supports.
Hey Jesse, the speed doesn't matter if you keep the accel the same. you can type in 500 mm a second, and for example, if your accel is too low the printer will never hit that speed anyways. Looks like it's going maybe like 60mm a sec. Try cranking the accel up and turn it down in slicer speed settings to 60mm a sec just for fun turn. It will still be fast. With no accel its Sorta like racing a Topthrill dragster on half the cylinders. Yea it's fast but wait till the other 4 pistons fire and it gets boosted. Aloof.example, but ya. Let me know if it helped you out at all :) l8
This is so beautiful model ❤ My Star Destroyer crashed because the stand failed from the top 😅 It's a bit front heavy and the stand didn't take it well
Hey great video and loving the sudo paint method. Question and maybe poll for community but what you think is the perfered method of painting? acrylic painting / spray or airbrush / dip / or using filiament? I know the project usually sways the preference but curious.
looks great for future i think you be better off print in grey and wash it nuln oil would be perfect and much quicker. Also do it after its fully assembled.
super cool projekt, so I tried to download a file for my neptune 4 plus but i can only choose the neptune 3s and the download is a cura file that i cant open in elegoo cura, how did you do it?
This is amazing, one question though. I’m not sure if it doesn’t come across on the video but there doesn’t seem to be any layer lines on your pint. How is that possible? I use a Neptune 4 pro and 75% of my time is spent sanding
I dunno man, I would have printed it in black as well but I would have used the airbrush to paint gray on that with some inclination, dry brushing the whole thing is brutal at highlighting layer lines.
The stand doesnt have any glue. Just the peg that goes into the hole in the ship. I did use 3D Gloop on the parts that were sagging on the ship & a few areas that arnt snap on
You 1000% need to checkout Fab365 print in place files! The Star Destroyer is FREE to download! fab365.net/items/505
Love Fab365 ever since I printed the Mystery Machine!
Sorry, I'm new to all of this. Can these be printed on resin printers?
The problem with scaling to 200% is the tolerances are also scaled. But like you said, that's what gloop is for
If you can get it
@@rhymecyphaYou can make your own with old plastic model sprues (or any similar plastic like 3D Printer filament) and plastic cement. Just cut up your old sprues or other plastic material and dissolve it in the plastic cement. You can also use epoxy or epoxy putty like miliput or green stuff.
yeah I was thinking that might have made the snapping of the parts together a bit easier as well
@@RuthlessMojo thats a great tip! Thanks!
What is the gloop you use or recommend?
Great work here buddy, it turned out so well! Thanks for the shout-out! ❤
Cool 'mini' too, that's my type of assemble process! Clip in parts... the dream 😊
Seriously fantastic tutorials! Will be attempting again soon ;)
An important note for your viewers that you must disable "make overhangs printable" in your slicer since that will fuse or seal many of the hinges and slots. Found out the hard way.
Thank you very much for your awesome print my design! Your video is much better than mine~ Can I share this video link on to my star destroyer page?😄
So many amazing details!
I may print one of these 😊
Such an awesome file
The Falcon is a nice touch in understanding perspective; seeing people stand next to the Falcon in the movies and at Disneyland, and then seeing the mini-piece next to the ISD, a mile-long ship, a human size is a tip of a ballpoint pen here
Just downloaded that model yesterday! I love FAB365.
Hey. Just as a tip from someone who builds Star Wars models. The best results I’ve gotten are black prime and then a few thin white coats either airbrush or rattlecan. It’s a fairly standard star ship scheme that works for Star Wars. In the movies the star destroyers are actually white, not grey.
Oh wow, this repository is awesome! Never would’ve found it without this vid. I love that I don’t have to think twice about printing some of these more complicated models with how reliable printers are getting nowadays, def gonna give em a try! Star destroyer build came out great btw
Love the look of this print when done! When looking for strength I’d 100% go with more walls than higher infill. Think some other UA-camr did a video on it before, CNC kitchen maybe?
I made some hooks for bath towels with like 6 walls and 10% infill and I could NOT for the life of me break the hooks, as hard as I tried, it was super strong.
A texture palette for dry brushing is such a game changer, the reason is because if you use a paper towel or something similar it pulls all the moisture out of the paint and you end up with a chalky looking finish.
I’ve printed this out myself a while back. Nice to see 365 getting a shout out.
Problem now is that since I’ve seen it scaled up and printed in black with dry brushing…..
Yessssssss! This is the content I love from you!
🔥 thanks! Had a lot of fun with this one!
This turned out Awesome! I love Fab365 work! i once requested the Razor Crest and it got voted. The built was an absolute pleasure!
That is next on my fab365 prints
@@UncleJessy Absolutely looking forward to that! Great Content by the way!👊😝
Second print I did on my qidi xmax 3. Amazing print.
Drybrushing is more about the control of moisture. You don't actually want the brush to be dry.
That's why Artis Opus uses a non-absorbent surface, as you want to keep moisture in the brush. You'll notice the small sponge he also uses to keep it moist.
Yeah I have zero idea what I’m doing 🤣😂 but was having fun trying it all. I had a wet paper towel I’d occasionally use but no where near as good as his.
❤❤❤beautiful drybrush came out awesome!!!
That turned out awesome.
I would love to see the FAB365 Scooby Doo Mystery Machine in a large size!
Only like halfway through this video, and it's been incredibly informative and included things I really thought would be useful for future prints! Really cool and thank you!
This is awesome Jessy!!!
Fantastic video like always! I'm currently in the market for a new 3D printer but with all the choices out there, which one would best fit my needs? I am looking to produce very large tall prints. I love the high detail of the resin printers but I do not like the chemicals or the limited size. This is probably a dumb question but I'll ask it anyway. Is there an extra large FDM printer that can produce the quality or close to it of a resin printer? If not, what filament would give the best results for minimizing layer lines? Which nozzle size gives the best detail again by limiting layer lines? What layer height also gives the best detail? Which slicing software is the one you would recommend depending on the printer type you suggest? I saw your videos on the Elegoo's Neptune 3 Max & 4 Max but I am hesitant to buy either. I also saw the Creality CR-10 S5 and the like and now I am more confused than ever. Please shed some light into the printer, filament and slicing software I should focus on, thank you.
Now you need to do a tiny resin Falcon with all the details!
🤣😂 oh I like that idea
I got their tie fighter.. great print!
Awesome print and thanks for sharing the build and finishing up process. I do have questions on settings that you use for such large prints to stick to bed for so long. Do you use any bed adhesion glue?
No supports 🤯 I love the paint job with the dry brush, looks amazing!
What an awesome model and print!
Just started my Star Destroyer print on my k1 Max!
Heck yeah!!
Thanks for posting this video! I'm just getting into 3d printing, and the Neptune plus is my first printer. I'm giving this one a go, since it looks like a great model without worrying about supports. I'm using orca slicer, and I notice the settings he gives on his site don't match up with orca. Which slicer did you use for this print?
Arguably my favourite ship from the Star Wars universe... lovely job on the paint. I imagine with the snap together nature it might make it a bit easier (with some pre-planning) to put some LEDs in there?
Ooh, I'd be very tempted to add some lighting to that baby.
I was thinking the same thing while I was editing
3D printing I had no idea what it was a few years ago, no it is very impressive what you and others are building with it.
Can you do a video about all the settings in the slicer for the Elegoo Neptune 4 plus
I love fab365, great video… question how much filament did you use to print this at that size?
Absolutely love this!!! How much PLA did it take?
this was about 3 rolls or so. For sure 2 fresh rolls and then reused a few open partial rolls I had
FYI, 1 free download when you sign up, then a 1 free token for every purchase.
Nice work! Massive Fab365 fan here, been doing some of their fighter planes and smaller SW ships at 150% lately myself. I think some of the construction vehickes might be next. Go big or go home! :D
Heck yeah!!
whoooaaaa this is aweosme! i have 3 neptune max 3 gotta make this
After watching this I ordered two rolls of that filament. Looks amazing. I’m currently printing at 220c on my x1c and it looks pretty gloss. What temp were you printing??
This is amazing! I love it!
Thanks man! Was a ton of fun
Model looks awesome, going to their website right now.
Awesome looking model and dry brush effect, my only criticism would be that while it might make sense to paint the individual sections as it might make it easier it also means that you will have sections of the ship that are not exactly the same color at the join lines like we can see in the video where you see large sections that are light then the hard join line and on the other segment it has a large darker grey color, when dry brushing it is better to assemble it first so that you can get a consistent color over the various segments
I turn off my auxiliary fan on the Qidi Tech X Plus 3 as well.
Thanks for the orcaslicer modifier tip!
I did his AT-AT at 200 % and it’s awesome!!!
@julianking3847 How big did it turn out? I got the AT-AT file as well. I would really like it about the size of the old Kenner ones. Any idea of the best size to scale it at to match that size?
I have a Neptune 4 plus. If I download the file into orca did you have to change settings for it to print for the elegoo? I've had some issues with some files and still learning how to use orca, bern using the slicer that came with the elegoo and it almost never messes up. Great video and man that's an awesome print and great finished model, you are very knowledgeable for sure.
Prints look amazing I have been going back and forth on replacing my ender5plus but the Neptune 4 max I have heard problems finding replacement nozzles and shopping around for hardened ones or even replacement of the copper ones. thoughts?
Its badass! It prints out nicely. I did 170% and im trying to add fiber optic lights to it 👍
I printed the Millennium Falcon and Tie Interceptor from him on my Ender 3 Pro as well as the stands for them. They turned out great. I did have problems with the foldable print in place files that he has as my settings weren't exactly dialed in. I'm eager to try this one on my Ender 3 V3 SE with auto bed leveling and auto z offset. I took some time the other day dialing in my e-steps and flow rate so it should be good to go.
With regards to adding strength to your parts: increasing wall count will do far more for strength than just increasing infill percentage.
I've always done infill percentages. What do you usually do for wall count to make it stronger? That might be an interesting option to use with Lightning infill.
As he was only using 2 walls, going up to 4-5 is going to do quite a bit for strength.
Omg I didn't expect it to look that good, I would start to print this off right now but I've no room for it anywhere 😢
Really cool looking. It would be an excellent proxy for playing Star Wars Armada. Not sure what scale the model is at to figure out where to scale it for the game.
Holy cow!!! Just found my next print
I made the same model and it is a fantastic kit. I found i had to glue it together to have the parts fit snug
Never knew about their site, some cool stuff on there, thanks!
After having a quick look, how are they charging for models that aren't theirs? That Michelangelo sculpture looks like the free one from that scan project a few years back.
Fab365 is underrated?!?!?
😅😅😅
Just got the stl thanks for the link..also bought the stand every penny helps..
Crazy that a D’Deridex is the same size as a Star Destroyer. Would love to see you make one of those ships.
Elegoo just released larger nozzles on Amazon for the Neptune 4 Max so hopefully he'll do a video on it
on the way ;)
@@UncleJessy thank you for the reply looking forward to seeing the video have a nice day
SO cool, I just downloaded the files. How long is it at 200% scale? Looks at least 2 feet long.
Just under 3ft long!
Took my fan off the Neptune 4 Plus first week. Even at 250mm/s no difference. I suspect its pointless sub 300mm/s speeds. I actually think it cools the bed too much and causes more problems with bed adhesion.
I printed this model on Bambu's orca slicer and had the same loose fitting issue. Their print settings are from prusa I'm not sure how much how much it affects the fit.
Very cool. What is the glue you're using?
may i make a suggestion, for dry brushing use much much less paint than you did... the brush is really almost dry devoid of paint. but over all for your first time not too shabby.
with dry brush less is more... ;o)
Thanks for the tip! Yeah was a fun first attempt!
100% agree. I am a big fan of Fab365.....really neat....and clever.... files.
the nose hangs down ...@11:05 is that correct ?
Reinforcing the stand with support was a really good idea. And I know what I'm talking about.
I printed the model scaled to 200% and after about 2 weeks the top part of the stand simply broke off and my Star Destroyer fell to the ground. Luckily there was no serious damage.
The support point is poorly chosen for this model. Too far away from the center of gravity.
I then designed my own stand where the model lies on 2 V-shaped supports.
I used a thin layer of E6000 when snapping it together so the entire assembly has no free play and feels like a solid single print.
What are the size of the fans inside the parts cooling box, maybe they can be exchanged to noctua fans.
Hey Jesse, the speed doesn't matter if you keep the accel the same. you can type in 500 mm a second, and for example, if your accel is too low the printer will never hit that speed anyways. Looks like it's going maybe like 60mm a sec. Try cranking the accel up and turn it down in slicer speed settings to 60mm a sec just for fun turn. It will still be fast. With no accel its Sorta like racing a Topthrill dragster on half the cylinders. Yea it's fast but wait till the other 4 pistons fire and it gets boosted. Aloof.example, but ya. Let me know if it helped you out at all :) l8
Hey can you do an update for the magneto statue.... or is that gonna be another one of your unfinished projects.
Fab365 rocks. I did the same thing with the ATAT Walker by up scaling it
1:00 I removed that huge fan completely from my machine.
Yeah I turned one off and removed it on the other. Might just take them off unless I'm printing faster than 300mm/s
@@UncleJessy I'm wondering if I'll need it for materials other than PLA, like maybe ABS, but it's easy to put back on.
So freaking cool.
Great project!
Could i print one using my Anycubic M3 resin printer?
didn't know about the modifier cheers
Jessy! What is the slicer you are using in the video? Also are running Mac or PC?
Mac & Orcaslicer
This is so beautiful model ❤ My Star Destroyer crashed because the stand failed from the top 😅 It's a bit front heavy and the stand didn't take it well
Hey great video and loving the sudo paint method. Question and maybe poll for community but what you think is the perfered method of painting? acrylic painting / spray or airbrush / dip / or using filiament? I know the project usually sways the preference but curious.
I would definitely love to get some of these printed items, but I don't have the budget for a 3D printer.
I love your videos so much. Also, do you think you’re ever going to do a review on the 3-D printer Creality Ender 3 v3 KE
Hope to get my hands on it soon!
@@UncleJessy can’t wait to see if if you do get it
Cotton ball and rub graphite powder. Would’ve looked amazing. Check Frank Builds for that technique.
I was debating on doing that. I have a big thing of it that I still need to start using 😂
@@UncleJessyI mean; still came out amazing.
Please forgive my ignorance but can this be printed on a resin printer...I am new to this.
Neptune 4 pro vs 4 plus ? Any recommendations?
Great video, subbed.
Have you considered rub and buff for this kinda dry brush effect?
WOW!!!! Just how long did it turn out? Looks to be 28-30". That's a candidate for fiber-optic lighting.
I did mine at 200% as well. It's 28 inches long.
I printed the front and middle pieces at 200% and they are so warped. I’m using a Neptune 4 max also. Any suggestions???
I find dry brushing makes the layer lines stand out more. I would have given it a medium to heavy primer first
Cool as always 👍
Great Video.. it looks like a toy and like something from another universe.
What were the Citadel paint color names you used??
looks great for future i think you be better off print in grey and wash it nuln oil would be perfect and much quicker. Also do it after its fully assembled.
super cool projekt, so I tried to download a file for my neptune 4 plus but i can only choose the neptune 3s and the download is a cura file that i cant open in elegoo cura, how did you do it?
This is amazing, one question though. I’m not sure if it doesn’t come across on the video but there doesn’t seem to be any layer lines on your pint. How is that possible? I use a Neptune 4 pro and 75% of my time is spent sanding
He is on the neptune 4 max and printing at .2 layer height. At least that's what I did and no sanding needed.
Can you pleas help me I have a ender 3 max neo It always says homing failer is there a way to stop it from happing again.
I dunno man, I would have printed it in black as well but I would have used the airbrush to paint gray on that with some inclination, dry brushing the whole thing is brutal at highlighting layer lines.
Yeah, I was thinking a little primer on it would have helped hide those layer lines.
@@justinhamrick384 You know, the only way to hide layer lines with a FDM is to print black matte and keep it in a dark room ;)
Hello Uncle Jessy. I was wondering how/why you got a sponsorship from Anycubic
That’s for the tutorial on the modifier !
Hope it helps some folks! I honestly wasn’t sure if multiple modifiers would work on top of each other 😂
Is there a special kind a glue you put on the base? Love your content btw!
The stand doesnt have any glue. Just the peg that goes into the hole in the ship. I did use 3D Gloop on the parts that were sagging on the ship & a few areas that arnt snap on