Transmission issue solved: 4L60E. In this video I share a hard learned lesson that I wish would have been given to me early on in my build. #4l60e #transmission #jeep
Yes an automatic transmission must be checked with the engine running and at operating temperature. If it is cold like after you serviced it and just re-filled it, I get it in the "add" zone probably a half quart low when cold. , engine running. Then get it warmed up on a test drive and top it off as needed. Make sure you check what ever automatic trans according to what the mfg says IE in neutral or in park, engine running and warmed up. The 32RH in my 99 TJ must be in neutral so the pump is actually circulating fluid where it does not in park(It reads over full in park). I have heard there is a mod to change that in the valve body if one feels the need. I have no idea about the 4L60 but when I finally get to my LS swap, I will need to figure it out since I plan to run one LOL. I am also a big fan of dumping any paper gasket when possible and using RTV alone. I found that putting a thin "coat" like paper thin on one side and letting it skin over/dry then apply your normal bead to the other part really works well. I believe instead of it all squishing out, it stays and flattens almost like an O ring does.
yay! no more drippy drip! It's cool to see you learning along the way. Looking forward to more vids, hopefully no more pulling the transmission though!
A contaminated MAF sensor wiil under report load, causing the PCM to reduce line pressure, which is also good for killing 3/4 clutches in a 4L60E, K&N has killed more 4L60's than you can shake a stick at....
You should fill the converter with fluid before you install it into the transmission. Great info on the dipstick length. I wonder if the same measurement applies with the engine oil pan?
Yeah, I filled it off camera. Good advice for others though! And I wonder. I worry less about the engine having too much oil though, I don’t think it is as harmful
Yes an automatic transmission must be checked with the engine running and at operating temperature. If it is cold like after you serviced it and just re-filled it, I get it in the "add" zone probably a half quart low when cold. , engine running. Then get it warmed up on a test drive and top it off as needed. Make sure you check what ever automatic trans according to what the mfg says IE in neutral or in park, engine running and warmed up. The 32RH in my 99 TJ must be in neutral so the pump is actually circulating fluid where it does not in park(It reads over full in park). I have heard there is a mod to change that in the valve body if one feels the need. I have no idea about the 4L60 but when I finally get to my LS swap, I will need to figure it out since I plan to run one LOL. I am also a big fan of dumping any paper gasket when possible and using RTV alone. I found that putting a thin "coat" like paper thin on one side and letting it skin over/dry then apply your normal bead to the other part really works well. I believe instead of it all squishing out, it stays and flattens almost like an O ring does.
Keepin' it real, Bub 💯❤️😍
yay! no more drippy drip! It's cool to see you learning along the way. Looking forward to more vids, hopefully no more pulling the transmission though!
A contaminated MAF sensor wiil under report load, causing the PCM to reduce line pressure, which is also good for killing 3/4 clutches in a 4L60E, K&N has killed more 4L60's than you can shake a stick at....
This is good info! Thanks for sharing!
You should fill the converter with fluid before you install it into the transmission. Great info on the dipstick length. I wonder if the same measurement applies with the engine oil pan?
Yeah, I filled it off camera. Good advice for others though! And I wonder. I worry less about the engine having too much oil though, I don’t think it is as harmful