2011 Dodge Nitro not charging. Alternator???
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- 2011 Dodge Nitro with the 3.7 v6. Customer requests an alternator and declined a diagnosis, Replaced alternator as instructed.....alternator still not charging.....
A diagnosis was performed after the alternator replacement. diagnosis found the pcm had a faulty high side driver for the field coil control. Also found the battery was not only old, not only damaged with an open state of 4v from running it dead, not only the wrong spec for the vehicle (wrong capacity rating) but a loose positive terminal lug (aftermarket terminal end). I believe the loose cable connection led to damaging the pcm as the root cause.
Replaced the battery with the proper specified battery, secured the cable ends, replaced the faulty pcm and programed and updated the pcm.
Your disgnosis was good. It clearly went over some peoples heads here LOL. No judmentment on the front pin, if its not hurting anything its perfeftly legal.
Did you program the PCM?
I am consisering one of the companies that send ECMs that are vin programmed right out of the box but would like to talk to someone who has done it that way.
Yes I programmed the PCM, I haven't had much experience with the plug and play stuff... I did have a Dakota that was problematic.... Long story
@madmike214 cool, what scan tool are you using and do you have a programming subscription?
That's something that's always been a little tough for me, back in my dealer days logging in and pulling the file was so easy, I don't have a lot of experience with aftermarket programming. TIA
@@paulkelley86 I don't remember what scan tool, Its likely the thinktool proS, I don't have a programming subscription, I purchase as needed... Mopar is WAY too expensive to carry a yearly sub. For the programming I'm using a cardaq 3+
@madmike214 cool, similar to you, the battery is totally shot on the one I just did, same thing customer requests replace alternator. I did and found it does charge, but I was seeing it intermittently drop below 12.6 while running. Before replacing it wouldn't even run with the jump pack removed so it went from a no charge to a charging but seeming like an intermittent, and the battery is totally shot so diagnosis is all being done on a lithium ion jump pack which has the voltage jumping up and down as the pack does its on off smart thing lol. Customer declines battery because it's under AAA warranty haha so I really don't know what I have there. I'll take a look when AAA does the battery.
If mine goes the way yours did, and I do an ecm, I'll do one of the pre programmed ones and let you know how I make out.
Thanks for the insight!
@@paulkelley86 I'd say you can't properly diag with a bad battery.... That's the heart.
Exelente
I was looking for a video on how to remove the alternator not to say whether it's working or not, you gave no video coverage on her to remove the alternator. It would've made a good video maybe next time round
Title doesn't say "how to replace alternator"... If you can't figure out how to remove and replace this alternator you should probably put the tools away...
I installed a new alternator and battery and had the pcm repaired and still won’t charge. Checked all the wires for shorts and couldn’t find anything. When I put 12 volts to the control field wire it charges immediately. Not sure where to go from here. It’s in the shop and they can’t seem to figure it out either it seems. They recommend a regulator bypass which I don’t want to do, cause I rather have it work like it’s supposed to. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Test the PCM control at the PCM... Just because the PCM is repaired or new doesn't mean it's any good. Check pin fitment at the PCM connectors and make sure there are no bent it missing pins in the pcm
So i have one that was putting out to many volts, tried to put in an external voltage regulator, that didnt work got a new alternator and pcm and now the battery is slowly still draining. I dont understand, what could it be?
Sorry for the delay... I didn't get the notification about this comment. Sounds like you possibly have 2 separate issues... A parasitic drain and a bad charging system. Maybe the parasitic drain pulled the battery down so often the charging system was always working overtime to get the battery back up... Is the charging problem now situated?? I'd start with the basics again, check the battery, charging and starting system then go to a parasitic draw test
I can’t tell where you back probed it to make it work .. where do wires go on rear of alternator?
I full field tested it by jumping the the field control circuit (brown/dark green) to battery positive. The pcm on this control circuit supplies power rather than supplying a ground ( power switched). Looking at the diagram, technically you could disconnect the 2 pin connector and supply b+ to both of the pins in the alternator 2 pin connector ( at the same time, momentarily) to do a full field test. This alternator can put out serous voltage so only do it for a few seconds, it blew out my cheep harbor frieght test light lol
Wanted to see the removal of the part
this vehicle wouldn't have really helped being that it had aftermarket intake parts on it but, remove the intake tubing and filter box to gain full access to the pcm, the pcm i think is only 3 bolts and 3 connectors
Thank you so much for your video. I had the same problem and I was desperate. I had two mechanics that told me the new alternator, that I installed, was bad. One of them even went to buy a new one, removed the one I installed, put the new one, and it was still not charging. He had to take out the one he bought and put back the one I installed. Today I went and I bought some test leads and a connector for the alternator and I verified if the alternator just as you did it in the final test, starting at minute 6:01. And the alternator started to charge the battery!
Now I can only conclude that it's the PCM. I just ordered a PCM with Flashmasters (513) 648-0444. Let's hope that after I install the new one, the car will be working.
I noticed a thing, though, when I jumped the PCM. The voltage the alternator was generating was around 18V, which to me seemed a little too high. I was expecting 14V. Do you have any idea why or what's going on, why such a high voltage?
Thank you for your help!
The alternator is capable of charging allot of voltage during that test because there is no regulation. I'm glad this was of help!!
It's likely the original alternator could have caused the driver in the pcm to fail but in this case i believe very loose battery sensing connection at the battery terminal spiked the pcm to death, that vehicle had an improperly installed aftermarket terminal end and and aftermarket stereo system.
Did you make a video installing the new pcm? I might have to do that on mine and have no idea how
Installing the pcm is super easy, just unplug, unbolt, remove old install new, bolt up and plug in... it's the programming that is more involved. It requires the proper tooling (j2534) and proper subscriptions to Chrysler witech and tech authority.
This may be my issue. 2011 Nitro 4.0L, replace the alt with a NEW OEM one, and the proper battery, still not charging the battery. So programming the PCM. Is that something I can do, or do it need a specific piece of hardware to do it?
Programming alone will do nothing, if you test as i did and find the pcm is the problem you'll need to replace the pcm and program the pcm. Depending on the vehicle...You may need either the factory tool or a good j2534 box (i used a cardaq3plus) and the subscriptions to witec and tech authority
@@madmike214 I looked up the box you mentioned, and it's way expensive for a 1 time use situation. You don't have a shop in Atlanta so I can just pay you to do it? lol
@@RandomRoger yeah i could travel there from p.a. but it'll cost ya 😆.
@@madmike214 😂😂😂
Did you purchase a new pcm?
Yes
So what was it?
Pcm...which was in the vid
@@madmike214 thank you