This video will cover heat shrinking using a stud gun. We'll talk about pros and cons about this method and demonstrate how it works and also if you should be doing this.
The problem for me is this is basic "puller". There are more complex dent pulling machines with wide range of settings like heat setting, time setting, and sheet thickness setting. One of them is "telwin 5500". i dont think its for sale in America. In Europe is very popular, you can pull and shrink modern cars too.
The shrink tip you are using is huge compared to the ones H&S sell for their Unispotter guns now. The smaller tip heats a smaller area faster. In fact, the instructions with the gun say to never pull the trigger for more than 1 second. A shorter time with a smaller tip makes it easier to control. I also know those having luck with this system are working on heavier gauge sheet metal on classic cars. Dimpling the metal or putting a hole in it won’t happen.
I have never used a stud gun and never will but always gain knowledge on how metal reacts from your videos. This is a little off topic, but I would like an opinion on an issue. I have a 1963 Chevy Biscayne 2Dr that has been sitting on the farm since 1973. I sanded the top to bare metal with an Eastwood drum sander. The back corner of the top on the driver's side had small dents where my late step father would sit gas cans to siphon gas into the tank. (They had metal gas cans back then.) While looking at these dents, I noticed that the center of the roof flexes in and out with little pressure. It doesn't stick like oil canning. It has no insulation on the inside. Does this movement seem normal? Is there something I should do? Thank you. Robert
Totally normal. Those old cars were big and roofs and hoods didn’t have a lot of reinforcements so they would really flex with minimal pressure . Door skin would also flex as they usually had no reinforcements. Thanks for watching
great video never seen some one demo the heat shrinking tip just bought one a few months ago when i found out that they even made one i think your burning through because the metal might be work hardened from using it prior with the torch and if you re watch the video your holding the gun on a angle pushing the edges into the metal a few times i never seen the stud gun shrinking tip demo'ed and wondered if it was designed to work the same way as with the torch/hammering method it may be just to make a few short zapps like you would do when installing a stud a sec trigger pull and just using that all around stretched area
oh on another note you can modify the stud gun so it doesnt require that much pressure by cutting down the spring or installing a smaller one i have mine set very light bc these new china cars metal is already thin to begin with
Yeah I know part of it was the way I was holding the gun but mostly from having dirty tips. I don’t think a few short zaps would heat the metal enough. This is one of those things that you have to experiment with. Metal thickness is going to play a big part too considering how thin today’s metal is. Thanks for watching
I bet a spot welder would work similarly to heat shrink a flange. I've got some metal shelving unit backs that the metal stretched around the bolt holes in the flange whenever the backing (which is large floppy sheets) got bent. I only have a MAPP torch so end up taking a while to get it red hot and then it's tricky to shrink because there's not a lot of material around. I don't own one of those biting shrinkers with the lever. But I do have a spot welder...
I have never used one of those stud guns thought about buying one? Don't think I pull enough dents to justify buying one. I always work dents out with my dollies and body hammers. Then put a thin layer of body filler. There are guy's that can spend many many hour's of body work and show there metal skills at shows and just use a thick primer and paint. After it's cover what difference dose it make when the person is going to either just wreck it or be to scared to drive it. Then you see video's of old Kustoms found in a field somewhere that once was.
@@autobodytrainingsolutions838 thank you for sharing your skills to us guys/gals that are still learning. By you sharing saves us so much time from making many mistakes. Saves time and money.
Hi,I'm a subscriber ..what is the purpose of tapping it with a hammer?--why not go straight to quenching it with water and by pass the hammer ? ..also,you said we shouldn't be shrinking metal on newer cars-- what other way is there to shrink metal on newer cars--?..thank you,great video
Once it’s heated , the hammer is used to pull the metal towards the center and it will have a small bump in it that needs to be flattened. It’s easier to do when it’s hot otherwise if you wait till it’s cool it will just get stretched out again. New vehicles shouldn’t be heated due to thinner metal that’s usually a little harder than thick metal and you’ll destroy the structure of the metal plus burning off protective coating. I have a video coming out in the future that shows one way to deal with new metals. Thanks for subscribing and for watching
Good question. In some cases the stretched area can be worked so that it is spread around a bigger area leaving a crown that can be hidden with filler by tapering it out. If this isn’t possible than the panel may have to be replaced. I should have a video dealing with this in the future. Thanks for watching
@@autobodytrainingsolutions838 ya but its not too late to show the kids and grandkids, and my motorguard kit did come with a shrinking tip, I havent used it yet tho
Just tried this, now I'm watching videos on how to fix it. Wish I would have seen this first before trying 😢
Thanks for watching
"High-end luxury car, say, a Nissan juke..."
🤣🤣🤣
The problem for me is this is basic "puller". There are more complex dent pulling machines with wide range of settings like heat setting, time setting, and sheet thickness setting. One of them is "telwin 5500". i dont think its for sale in America. In Europe is very popular, you can pull and shrink modern cars too.
This equipment is always evolving and improving but sometimes the cost puts it out of reach. Thanks for watching
Would it be possible to shrink metal with a TIG welder? Just create a small hot spot without adding wire?
Anything’s possible but that’s something I just don’t know. Try it on a scrap piece and see what happens. I’m curious myself now. Thanks for watching
The shrink tip you are using is huge compared to the ones H&S sell for their Unispotter guns now. The smaller tip heats a smaller area faster. In fact, the instructions with the gun say to never pull the trigger for more than 1 second. A shorter time with a smaller tip makes it easier to control. I also know those having luck with this system are working on heavier gauge sheet metal on classic cars. Dimpling the metal or putting a hole in it won’t happen.
Good tip. Thanks for watching
I have never used a stud gun and never will but always gain knowledge on how metal reacts from your videos. This is a little off topic, but I would like an opinion on an issue. I have a 1963 Chevy Biscayne 2Dr that has been sitting on the farm since 1973. I sanded the top to bare metal with an Eastwood drum sander. The back corner of the top on the driver's side had small dents where my late step father would sit gas cans to siphon gas into the tank. (They had metal gas cans back then.) While looking at these dents, I noticed that the center of the roof flexes in and out with little pressure. It doesn't stick like oil canning. It has no insulation on the inside. Does this movement seem normal? Is there something I should do? Thank you. Robert
Totally normal. Those old cars were big and roofs and hoods didn’t have a lot of reinforcements so they would really flex with minimal pressure . Door skin would also flex as they usually had no reinforcements. Thanks for watching
great video never seen some one demo the heat shrinking tip just bought one a few months ago when i found out that they even made one
i think your burning through because the metal might be work hardened from using it prior with the torch and if you re watch the video your holding the gun on a angle pushing the edges into the metal a few times
i never seen the stud gun shrinking tip demo'ed and wondered if it was designed to work the same way as with the torch/hammering method it may be just to make a few short zapps like you would do when installing a stud a sec trigger pull and just using that all around stretched area
oh on another note you can modify the stud gun so it doesnt require that much pressure by cutting down the spring or installing a smaller one i have mine set very light bc these new china cars metal is already thin to begin with
Yeah I know part of it was the way I was holding the gun but mostly from having dirty tips. I don’t think a few short zaps would heat the metal enough. This is one of those things that you have to experiment with. Metal thickness is going to play a big part too considering how thin today’s metal is. Thanks for watching
I like it better using the torch! than the stud gun!! Good job!!!!
I bet a spot welder would work similarly to heat shrink a flange. I've got some metal shelving unit backs that the metal stretched around the bolt holes in the flange whenever the backing (which is large floppy sheets) got bent. I only have a MAPP torch so end up taking a while to get it red hot and then it's tricky to shrink because there's not a lot of material around. I don't own one of those biting shrinkers with the lever. But I do have a spot welder...
I don’t know if that will work but it’s worth a try. Thanks for watching
I have never used one of those stud guns thought about buying one? Don't think I pull enough dents to justify buying one. I always work dents out with my dollies and body hammers. Then put a thin layer of body filler. There are guy's that can spend many many hour's of body work and show there metal skills at shows and just use a thick primer and paint. After it's cover what difference dose it make when the person is going to either just wreck it or be to scared to drive it.
Then you see video's of old Kustoms found in a field somewhere that once was.
You make some good points. Tools are expensive so you really have to justify the cost over how much it will be used. Thanks for watching
@@autobodytrainingsolutions838 thank you for sharing your skills to us guys/gals that are still learning. By you sharing saves us so much time from making many mistakes. Saves time and money.
Hi,I'm a subscriber
..what is the purpose of tapping it with a hammer?--why not go straight to quenching it with water and by pass the hammer ?
..also,you said we shouldn't be shrinking metal on newer cars-- what other way is there to shrink metal on newer cars--?..thank you,great video
Once it’s heated , the hammer is used to pull the metal towards the center and it will have a small bump in it that needs to be flattened. It’s easier to do when it’s hot otherwise if you wait till it’s cool it will just get stretched out again. New vehicles shouldn’t be heated due to thinner metal that’s usually a little harder than thick metal and you’ll destroy the structure of the metal plus burning off protective coating. I have a video coming out in the future that shows one way to deal with new metals. Thanks for subscribing and for watching
@@autobodytrainingsolutions838
AWESOME..THANK YOU FOR YOUR QUICK RESPONSE..😁👌!
If you shouldn’t heat shrink newer cars what do you do?
Good question. In some cases the stretched area can be worked so that it is spread around a bigger area leaving a crown that can be hidden with filler by tapering it out. If this isn’t possible than the panel may have to be replaced. I should have a video dealing with this in the future. Thanks for watching
for over 30 years I never had or used a stud gun,should have bought one decades ago
I know what you mean. There’s tools that I should have bought years ago but now it’s too late in the game. Thanks for watching
@@autobodytrainingsolutions838 ya but its not too late to show the kids and grandkids, and my motorguard kit did come with a shrinking tip, I havent used it yet tho
@@rcs0296 you should give it a try sometime. Thanks for watching
@@autobodytrainingsolutions838 LOL I hope I dont have to
Would a tig torch do this?
I don’t know if it’ll work. You may have to experiment with that. Thanks for watching