I live in a story and a half, so our central air does not cool the upstairs. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn I ordered two of these units because our upstairs is so long with tandem rooms. I just got these three days ago and hooked them up today. These are so much easier than trying to insert window air and needing a frame for them. The Black and Decker are made really nice (actually better quality than I had expected) , they were easy to install. I only had to cut a few inches off the end of window insertion. They are not as quiet as central air , but they cooled down the room really fast and I am very happy with them. The only downfall I would say , is they will require a little more space. Our rooms are quite large, so it was no problem. I would recommend these units to anyone.
*Solid, **Fastly.Cool** and gets the job done. For rooms where window-mounted air conditioning is not an option, this works very well. Easy set up, rapid cooling, and great design.*
Our domestic unit is similar. Notice the electrical box, it blocks air Intake through the filter. I raised that box with a 1 inch plastic block held in place with marine adhesive. The new air flow is 25% better, tested with an air flow meter. All these things we do add up to better performance the factory could do with little effort.
Thank you soooo much!! Have a 2020 Keystone Cougar 5th wheel, used it two times. Figured the a/c unit was too small and ready to add the optional second one. I ran across your video, checked mine and sure enough, one side was hanging down!!!! They still haven’t remedied this problem! Now the unit will freeze you out. Thanks again!
I have a 2014 Sundance 37’, the ducts to the bathroom and bedroom never worked. I used this fix plus I removed both covers and retapped the entire area. I used foil hvac tape which I believe will last much longer than duct tape. I also used a tip from another video, I used 1” foam and sealed the bottom of the air flow chamber and forced all the cool air into the ducts. I can now cool my entire rig and it runs quite a bit quieter too. Thanks for the tips.
Great tip! I checked mine and sure enough.. I decided to take a temp reading before I messed with anything so I stuck my ac thermometer in the farthest vent from the unit and right now outside it's 95 degrees, the thermometer in the vent was reading 62 then I fixed the air leakage and the vent temp air dropped to 58 so I call that a win! Glad I found this vid.
Very good video,to the point! Yes mine was same way,being a new RV didn't think nothing would be wrong with and never checked. Now good and cool! Thank you.
Thank you for this discussion. Have had the same issue with this unit. Then one day the compressor wouldn't kick in. Dealer changed out and flow is a lot better. will have to double check the separation.
I just did a thorough overhaul on mine and what a night and day difference. The A/C cools alot better reaching our set temp of 75 deg and even cycles on and off like it should, not to mention its been reaching 110 deg here in Texas the last 2weeks.
Check your duct vents also. There is a very good chance they are not sealed to the ductwork that runs through the camper's ceiling. You may be loosing cold air into the void space above the ceiling at the vent outlets.
Jon, Just saw this video 2/2020. In addition to the issue you point out (thank you so much, mine was partially open), I pulled the entire cover off to expose the cooling side and noticed that out of the two vents coming into the A/C one was covered over by metal tape and the other was partially covered. Once the metal tape was removed cleared it really rocked on pushing air through the ceiling vents.
When I added the second AC (bedroom unit) in our 5th wheel; I resealed every opening going into the air box and the ducts with the high end foil tape. The quick, sloppy and shoddy work the manufacture did was laughable at best. I immediately noticed a big difference in air flow and now with the second ac I'm looking forward to this summer to test how both units running will cool down the 5th wheel. Our Keystone Cougar uses the "racetrack" style AC ducting.
Amazing all of the junk, cheapness, and poor quality that we find in "modern" RV's. My fix it list never ends and I am always taken aback by what I find. 2012 Keystone Montana Mountaineer.
@@MrErichonda30 Nailed it. When you are promised your vehicle will pull anything they want to sell you make them hook it up and go for a test run. Been camping for 22 years. Current wife has 40+ years experience and had many a salesman sweating when we hooked up their trailer. After one obvious failure the salesman lost his job. Always read your weights and truck pulling capacities. Our most recent trailer required an upgrade to a 395 hp, 8 speed tranny with trailer package plus air bag levelers to match up. Pulls at 75 mph using 3,000 rpms and 4,000 rpms on hills on cruise control through the hills on I-70 through Kansas, If they are so CONFIDENT have them put EVERYTHING they promised in the sales document because there is a clause that clearly states that ALL verbal representations do not have any legal effect and only written representations will be honored. Write down all important promises as they make them and have them incorporated into the final sales agreement. They count on your excitement at owning the new shiny trailer to overlook all the promises they will not fill. Why do they need, "closers" to finish the process? To lose all those verbal promises! Be careful, test the towing ability, make them keep their promises and ENJOY YEARS OF FUN.
One fine example. A washer/dryer was listed on the invoice on a used class A Pace Arrow we purchased. There was neither included but we did get a new set. We paid the difference between the cost of a used set and a new set. Best $200 I spent. We used it once a day and went home with clean clothes and towels from every trip. It is the little things that add up.... And always caulk your roof, windows, a/c units, each spring and fall. Put a can in your utility/tool box. I use the old wheel bearing fiber grease for the ball and hitch. They recommend you remove the hitch after you set up then store it in a dry spot like in between a sheet of plastic laid out in your truck bed. HAPPY CAMPING. LEARN FROM OTHER'S MISTAKES. Like mine....
Thanks for sharing. The other day I was just sealing up my rv air vent because alot of the cold air coming inside had escaped into the hot air chamber and it was getting sucked right back out. So after taping and sealing the inside unit, there was more colder air flow coming in through those little duct vent. I have the same ac as yours.
This happened on my 2019 Radiance I just bought... AC seemed very noisy and when I pulled the filter cover off I noticed a ton of air coming from the same area you pointed out. I put aluminum AC Duct Tape as you did with yours and the AC worked even better and it was noticeably quieter. ALSO, on the opposite end of the air box, the tape that seals the AC from the cavety between the inside ceiling and the roof was open and the intake was pulling up the insulation from the roof so I had to seal that up as well and pull some errant pink insulation from the coils. Sloppy installation was the culprit there!
I have a Dometic A/C in my 2018 Coleman. Even brand new, it couldn't keep up on a really hot day. It still gets cool but sounds like it's about to explode. After pricing replacements, I decide to mount a window A/C. Lost one window, but it is much quieter and more effective.
I also had to fix each vent behind the cover, most don't go up all the way to the duct so I fix mines with the 3M aluminum tape. My next fix is going to be in the master bedroom, the divider is just in there and not doing what it supposed to do. Nice video, yeah but I would start taking all of the vent cover and see it there a gap.
Not sure the make of your RV but just a safety note. The NHTSA has issued a recall for Heartland Rv a/c units. The bell connectors on your a/c’s wiring can overheat and cause a fire. They are replacing them with yellow wire nuts and electrical tape. Refer to NHTSA recall 19V-525.
I realize this was made a long time ago but think about a fifty cent plastic folder from wal mart cut to replace that foam and taped in its place. Sounds like that is what the manufacturers should have done to begin with!
I have a 2018 pioneer trailer I also have the domestic A/C. I found that my cooler with it blowing through the vents would freeze the coil which made the A/C system to not work at all so I found that if I switch it to go through the vents the gasket which is around the vents on the A/C unit doesn’t seal out the cold air where the return air goes out freezing the coils which made it not work at all. Either it’s a manufacture defect. Not sure
I was having similar problems like everybody else. Just piss poor design or craftmanship. Or both. I will be cutting thin insulation board and using duct tape and Reflex insulation. There's no way it could be worse. Thank you for the video.
@@Hugo-Hernandez Well, I did it. It wasn't near as pretty as the video, and I modified it slightly because my AC was shaped a little different, but I put it all together and it worked amazing. My only problem is I believe I have a bad switch or the motor. It ran great for 10 mins then it blew the breaker. It was doing that before though. But for the 10 mins it worked it was blowing colder air, much harder throughout my 5th wheel.
@@Hugo-Hernandez Oh, definitely! When it was working, it was BLOWING good! It was blowing at least twice as hard if not more. It cooled my entire 5th wheel off quick! I tried it again Saturday. It was almost 100* outside. It cooled it off in no time, blowing hard. But it flipped the breaker in about 20 mins. I think the fan motor is my issue. But it did work great!!!
What is that shield called? I have that same air conditioner but I don’t have that shield in mine. Having a lot of issues right now with the air conditioner.
Just did this on both of my a/c units today before seeing this video.... I also highly recommend just pulling down the entire cover (6 screws) and taping the ducts up (also with the proper tape) they are on the left and right sides of the unit.... the shit bags that slap these RV’s together are fucking brainless jack wagons. I also did ALL of my ducts...as many were just blasting cool air inside my roof!!! And some had holes in the top of the vent channels from the hole saws they were using.....I can’t believe they let the monkeys use power tools! I have a 2018 forest river Sierra ..... I guess quality control is completely absent form there facilities/ but if there is such a thing like quality control there they are the laughing stock of the RV community!!! Hope this helps all who have a Rv cheers
In order for this message to be conveyed to the workers who assemble these flimsy pieces of crap you'll have to translate "fucking brainless jackwagon" to Espanol.
Hey Jon, I have the same Dometic AC but the motor to the fan stays on it won't shut off when I turn the cooling off. Any suggestion to why this is happening?
Fingers crossed this is all that’s wrong with my unit. We can barely keep the main area a few degrees cooler than the outside temp. Put my ThermoWorks pen in the vent and the air is blowing a solid 48. Yet it just can’t cool the room at all.
What cracks me up is that there’s an actual certification you need to get to work on RV’s! I have a 32 ft Puma camper. Believe me when I tell you any laboratory monkey could work on these things. Mines attached to the property that I purchased on a lake and and I really don’t have the means to move it to a repair shop. After paying some jack wagon to come out and do a few simple repairs $600 for maybe an hrs work I will never, ever pay someone to work on it again unless it’s something way beyond my pay grade. Besides the slide out mechanisms I can’t think of anything on that camper I wouldn’t attempt to fix myself.
Biggest thing with slide outs is making sure the correct type of grease is used and greased every spring. If it does not fit right make sure it finds its way back to the dealership under warranty(obviously) but you are right - 90%+ work can be done by anyone with common sense and a well stocked tool box. Also surge protecters(free replacements if they go out), in line water pressure reducers, water filters(blow water through them before hooking to camper). A new one has a massive amount of charcoal dust the first time you test it. You will be sooo glad you rinsed it out first. Also use a water filter like the Pure Water kind for drinking and ice cubes. Most campgrounds would not pass a state inspection for purity or heavy metals. Also have the dealership throw in an upgraded black water hose or you will be buying one. Just a few tips from my 22 years of camping and my wife's 40+. She has owned every type - class A, class C, pop ups, class B+, pull behinds. She fixes almost everything that goes out like our satellite system(DISH@ $8/month), seals the roof every fall and spring, a/c flow, getting the right levelers/anti sway bars. Do a walk around before leaving, follow your pre trip check off list, follow your post camping list and ENJOY THE GREAT OUTDOORS.
I run mine all year. The RV is stored next to the house and I installed a 50A outlet. Heat and humidity will destroy an interior. Better to run an A/C then let it sit and have the seals dry out.
you only fixed half of the problem, take that cover off and go seal the other side as well, u will a HUGE improvement!!! BUT, use hvac tape as that duct tape will dry and rot off
@@mikemiller5839 it doesn't fail as quickly as duct tape. Also try cleaning the application site with alcohol for better adhesion. I removed the whole cover (there are 2 plastic caps covering a couple of the screws on the dump vent side) then also clean that metal plate with alcohol and tape the back side with foil tape since the air pushes out on the plate from that side. I went beyond that and put a couple of self tapping screws after marking the top position of the plate with a sharpie. No problems since
I live in a story and a half, so our central air does not cool the upstairs. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn I ordered two of these units because our upstairs is so long with tandem rooms. I just got these three days ago and hooked them up today. These are so much easier than trying to insert window air and needing a frame for them. The Black and Decker are made really nice (actually better quality than I had expected) , they were easy to install. I only had to cut a few inches off the end of window insertion. They are not as quiet as central air , but they cooled down the room really fast and I am very happy with them. The only downfall I would say , is they will require a little more space. Our rooms are quite large, so it was no problem. I would recommend these units to anyone.
*Solid, **Fastly.Cool** and gets the job done. For rooms where window-mounted air conditioning is not an option, this works very well. Easy set up, rapid cooling, and great design.*
Our domestic unit is similar. Notice the electrical box, it blocks air Intake through the filter. I raised that box with a 1 inch plastic block held in place with marine adhesive. The new air flow is 25% better, tested with an air flow meter. All these things we do add up to better performance the factory could do with little effort.
Thank you soooo much!! Have a 2020 Keystone Cougar 5th wheel, used it two times. Figured the a/c unit was too small and ready to add the optional second one. I ran across your video, checked mine and sure enough, one side was hanging down!!!! They still haven’t remedied this problem! Now the unit will freeze you out. Thanks again!
Having issues with my AC not cooling I will look at this to see if it is the problem thank you for taking the time to help others.
I have a 2014 Sundance 37’, the ducts to the bathroom and bedroom never worked. I used this fix plus I removed both covers and retapped the entire area. I used foil hvac tape which I believe will last much longer than duct tape. I also used a tip from another video, I used 1” foam and sealed the bottom of the air flow chamber and forced all the cool air into the ducts. I can now cool my entire rig and it runs quite a bit quieter too. Thanks for the tips.
I TRULY APPRECIATE YOUR EFFORTS AND THE INVALUABLE INFORMATION DISCUSSED IN YOUR VIDEO; THANK,S PATRICK.P
Thanks for taking the time to make this video for us.
I am grateful.
Great tip! I checked mine and sure enough.. I decided to take a temp reading before I messed with anything so I stuck my ac thermometer in the farthest vent from the unit and right now outside it's 95 degrees, the thermometer in the vent was reading 62 then I fixed the air leakage and the vent temp air dropped to 58 so I call that a win! Glad I found this vid.
Very good video,to the point! Yes mine was same way,being a new RV didn't think nothing would be wrong with and never checked. Now good and cool! Thank you.
Thank you for this discussion. Have had the same issue with this unit. Then one day the compressor wouldn't kick in. Dealer changed out and flow is a lot better. will have to double check the separation.
I just did this fix to my camper ac, works like a new unit. Would highly recommend and did to others. Thanks for the video...
I checked mine, which is an ‘08 model. It was sealed up well but my cage fan was full of dust. Cleaning it out helped a ton too!
I just did a thorough overhaul on mine and what a night and day difference. The A/C cools alot better reaching our set temp of 75 deg and even cycles on and off like it should, not to mention its been reaching 110 deg here in Texas the last 2weeks.
What size is your rig?
Check your duct vents also. There is a very good chance they are not sealed to the ductwork that runs through the camper's ceiling. You may be loosing cold air into the void space above the ceiling at the vent outlets.
Use foil backed hvac tape instead. Duct tape will fail over time. You can get foil tape from any big box home supply store.
will be checking mine this afternoon. Thanks for the video.
Good idea, I have the same AC and will check it out, thanks for posting.
Jon, Just saw this video 2/2020. In addition to the issue you point out (thank you so much, mine was partially open), I pulled the entire cover off to expose the cooling side and noticed that out of the two vents coming into the A/C one was covered over by metal tape and the other was partially covered. Once the metal tape was removed cleared it really rocked on pushing air through the ceiling vents.
Great to know this simple fix . Thks .
When I added the second AC (bedroom unit) in our 5th wheel; I resealed every opening going into the air box and the ducts with the high end foil tape. The quick, sloppy and shoddy work the manufacture did was laughable at best. I immediately noticed a big difference in air flow and now with the second ac I'm looking forward to this summer to test how both units running will cool down the 5th wheel. Our Keystone Cougar uses the "racetrack" style AC ducting.
Going to try this. Thanks for the video
Great stuff, thanks for the tip!
Amazing all of the junk, cheapness, and poor quality that we find in "modern" RV's. My fix it list never ends and I am always taken aback by what I find. 2012 Keystone Montana Mountaineer.
All that matters to the rv industry is getting their money. Been a full timer since 2007.
@@MrErichonda30
Nailed it. When you are promised your vehicle will pull anything they want to sell you make them hook it up and go for a test run. Been camping for 22 years. Current wife has 40+ years experience and had many a salesman sweating when we hooked up their trailer. After one obvious failure the salesman lost his job. Always read your weights and truck pulling capacities. Our most recent trailer required an upgrade to a 395 hp, 8 speed tranny with trailer package plus air bag levelers to match up. Pulls at 75 mph using 3,000 rpms and 4,000 rpms on hills on cruise control through the hills on I-70 through Kansas,
If they are so CONFIDENT have them put EVERYTHING they promised in the sales document because there is a clause that clearly states that ALL verbal representations do not have any legal effect and only written representations will be honored.
Write down all important promises as they make them and have them incorporated into the final sales agreement. They count on your excitement at owning the new shiny trailer to overlook all the promises they will not fill. Why do they need, "closers" to finish the process? To lose all those verbal promises!
Be careful, test the towing ability, make them keep their promises and ENJOY YEARS OF FUN.
One fine example. A washer/dryer was listed on the invoice on a used class A Pace Arrow we purchased. There was neither included but we did get a new set.
We paid the difference between the cost of a used set and a new set. Best $200 I spent. We used it once a day and went home with clean clothes and towels from every trip.
It is the little things that add up....
And always caulk your roof, windows, a/c units, each spring and fall. Put a can in your utility/tool box. I use the old wheel bearing fiber grease for the ball and hitch. They recommend you remove the hitch after you set up then store it in a dry spot like in between a sheet of plastic laid out in your truck bed.
HAPPY CAMPING. LEARN FROM OTHER'S MISTAKES. Like mine....
Thanks for sharing. The other day I was just sealing up my rv air vent because alot of the cold air coming inside had escaped into the hot air chamber and it was getting sucked right back out. So after taping and sealing the inside unit, there was more colder air flow coming in through those little duct vent. I have the same ac as yours.
Wow ... we just purchased a tt with that problem ... Thank you !!
This happened on my 2019 Radiance I just bought... AC seemed very noisy and when I pulled the filter cover off I noticed a ton of air coming from the same area you pointed out. I put aluminum AC Duct Tape as you did with yours and the AC worked even better and it was noticeably quieter. ALSO, on the opposite end of the air box, the tape that seals the AC from the cavety between the inside ceiling and the roof was open and the intake was pulling up the insulation from the roof so I had to seal that up as well and pull some errant pink insulation from the coils.
Sloppy installation was the culprit there!
Man that helped! Secured it with duct tape so should hold and seal well. Checked filter to boot.
Noticed we had the same problem with ours and would freeze over. Hoping this will fix that thanks
I have a Dometic A/C in my 2018 Coleman. Even brand new, it couldn't keep up on a really hot day. It still gets cool but sounds like it's about to explode. After pricing replacements, I decide to mount a window A/C. Lost one window, but it is much quieter and more effective.
I also had to fix each vent behind the cover, most don't go up all the way to the duct so I fix mines with the 3M aluminum tape. My next fix is going to be in the master bedroom, the divider is just in there and not doing what it supposed to do. Nice video, yeah but I would start taking all of the vent cover and see it there a gap.
Thanks I believe this was my problem.
Not sure the make of your RV but just a safety note. The NHTSA has issued a recall for Heartland Rv a/c units. The bell connectors on your a/c’s wiring can overheat and cause a fire. They are replacing them with yellow wire nuts and electrical tape. Refer to NHTSA recall 19V-525.
I realize this was made a long time ago but think about a fifty cent plastic folder from wal mart cut to replace that foam and taped in its place. Sounds like that is what the manufacturers should have done to begin with!
I have a 2018 pioneer trailer I also have the domestic A/C. I found that my cooler with it blowing through the vents would freeze the coil which made the A/C system to not work at all so I found that if I switch it to go through the vents the gasket which is around the vents on the A/C unit doesn’t seal out the cold air where the return air goes out freezing the coils which made it not work at all. Either it’s a manufacture defect. Not sure
I was having similar problems like everybody else. Just piss poor design or craftmanship. Or both. I will be cutting thin insulation board and using duct tape and Reflex insulation. There's no way it could be worse. Thank you for the video.
Did you ever fix it up and if you did how is it doing now ?
@@Hugo-Hernandez Well, I did it. It wasn't near as pretty as the video, and I modified it slightly because my AC was shaped a little different, but I put it all together and it worked amazing. My only problem is I believe I have a bad switch or the motor. It ran great for 10 mins then it blew the breaker. It was doing that before though. But for the 10 mins it worked it was blowing colder air, much harder throughout my 5th wheel.
@@TheBadassroadking
So you could tell a difference?
@@Hugo-Hernandez Oh, definitely! When it was working, it was BLOWING good! It was blowing at least twice as hard if not more. It cooled my entire 5th wheel off quick! I tried it again Saturday. It was almost 100* outside. It cooled it off in no time, blowing hard. But it flipped the breaker in about 20 mins. I think the fan motor is my issue. But it did work great!!!
@@TheBadassroadking
Thank you for letting me know. I’m definitely going to do it now. Good luck on the breaker issue
I Alamo’s purchase a mew unite , I have to say this a AMAZING TIP THANKS GOD BLESS
Thank You
Just repaired mine today.
Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Your awesome thank you!
Thank you!
Thanks!
thanks, was wondering why I was getting drips/condensation on my vent hood.
👍🏻 good job
Saved the say. Thanks!
My ac is doing the same thing, we’ll check it tomorrow.. awesome tip
How do you remove the plastic cover?
What is that shield called? I have that same air conditioner but I don’t have that shield in mine. Having a lot of issues right now with the air conditioner.
Wowww!!! Thx
Just did this on both of my a/c units today before seeing this video.... I also highly recommend just pulling down the entire cover (6 screws) and taping the ducts up (also with the proper tape) they are on the left and right sides of the unit.... the shit bags that slap these RV’s together are fucking brainless jack wagons. I also did ALL of my ducts...as many were just blasting cool air inside my roof!!! And some had holes in the top of the vent channels from the hole saws they were using.....I can’t believe they let the monkeys use power tools! I have a 2018 forest river Sierra ..... I guess quality control is completely absent form there facilities/ but if there is such a thing like quality control there they are the laughing stock of the RV community!!! Hope this helps all who have a Rv cheers
In order for this message to be conveyed to the workers who assemble these flimsy pieces of crap you'll have to translate "fucking brainless jackwagon" to Espanol.
Hey Jon, I have the same Dometic AC but the motor to the fan stays on it won't shut off when I turn the cooling off. Any suggestion to why this is happening?
where us the filter, mine would be right below the area you just showed how to improve
🤦♂️ why haven't I checked this on mine. If I close the vent on the bottom of the unit I get almost no flow out of the ceiling vents. Thank you!
Just wondering, what if the a.c. does not have that shield. What can we use or do???
We had the thin layer like this... we went to Home Depot and got the aluminum tape and bubble insulated romex and insulated... big difference
Do you or have you had problems with the AC condensing and leaking into the RV through the dump vent? I have the same model and year.
I have had this issue. Any fix???
Try covering the dump vent on the cover and make sure that piece he taped up isn't leaking air by
@@rickymartinez6632 Try covering the dump vent on the cover and make sure that piece he taped up isn't leaking air by
Bingo! Same Problem 2016 Coachmen Freedom Express 25' Thanks
Fingers crossed this is all that’s wrong with my unit. We can barely keep the main area a few degrees cooler than the outside temp. Put my ThermoWorks pen in the vent and the air is blowing a solid 48. Yet it just can’t cool the room at all.
How do you get the entire ivory cover off. I removed the 4 screws under the filter but still won't come down
There are two hidden screws under plastic caps near the air shower lever. Pop off the caps with a thin screwdriver.
What cracks me up is that there’s an actual certification you need to get to work on RV’s! I have a 32 ft Puma camper. Believe me when I tell you any laboratory monkey could work on these things. Mines attached to the property that I purchased on a lake and and I really don’t have the means to move it to a repair shop. After paying some jack wagon to come out and do a few simple repairs $600 for maybe an hrs work I will never, ever pay someone to work on it again unless it’s something way beyond my pay grade. Besides the slide out mechanisms I can’t think of anything on that camper I wouldn’t attempt to fix myself.
Biggest thing with slide outs is making sure the correct type of grease is used and greased every spring. If it does not fit right make sure it finds its way back to the dealership under warranty(obviously) but you are right - 90%+ work can be done by anyone with common sense and a well stocked tool box.
Also surge protecters(free replacements if they go out), in line water pressure reducers, water filters(blow water through them before hooking to camper). A new one has a massive amount of charcoal dust the first time you test it. You will be sooo glad you rinsed it out first. Also use a water filter like the Pure Water kind for drinking and ice cubes. Most campgrounds would not pass a state inspection for purity or heavy metals.
Also have the dealership throw in an upgraded black water hose or you will be buying one.
Just a few tips from my 22 years of camping and my wife's 40+. She has owned every type - class A, class C, pop ups, class B+, pull behinds. She fixes almost everything that goes out like our satellite system(DISH@ $8/month), seals the roof every fall and spring, a/c flow, getting the right levelers/anti sway bars.
Do a walk around before leaving, follow your pre trip check off list, follow your post camping list and ENJOY THE GREAT OUTDOORS.
Can I run my dometic AC while I am out of town ?
I run mine all year. The RV is stored next to the house and I installed a 50A outlet. Heat and humidity will destroy an interior. Better to run an A/C then let it sit and have the seals dry out.
you only fixed half of the problem, take that cover off and go seal the other side as well, u will a HUGE improvement!!! BUT, use hvac tape as that duct tape will dry and rot off
He left off the most important part, cutting and fitting the insulation.
My RV, BIG mistake what a Money Pit
duct tape will fail, should have used the proper foil HVAC tape
Absolutely.
Foil tape fails too. Use it on the ducts a year later its all peeling off.
@@mikemiller5839 it doesn't fail as quickly as duct tape. Also try cleaning the application site with alcohol for better adhesion. I removed the whole cover (there are 2 plastic caps covering a couple of the screws on the dump vent side) then also clean that metal plate with alcohol and tape the back side with foil tape since the air pushes out on the plate from that side. I went beyond that and put a couple of self tapping screws after marking the top position of the plate with a sharpie. No problems since
Dometic unit
Cheap junk high price...designed to take your money.
Thanks!