After watching your video, BEFORE I went up to clean my RVs A/C units, I realized that for the last year(or two) I’ve been running my unit wrong! I’ve had the “dump” vent open, which dumps right on my boyfriend and me while we sit on the couch!!! I even made a diverter so it wouldn’t be blowing directly on us. So glad that I watched the video-awesome information, GREAT TUTORIAL!
It’s the simple things that get overlooked and can make RVING more enjoyable! That’s why we do what we do. Thanks for sharing your comment and thanks for watching! -Todd
Take the cover off the thermostat, put it away for good. The natural current in your bodys fingers work best on those chrome points to adjust the temperature the best with no frustration
Wow!! Thanks!! Not in it for the kudos, just trying to make a difference and make happy campers!! But, thanks for the compliment, hope you subscribed and gave us a like to support future content!! Tell your camper buddies!! -Todd
I have a 2018 Montana 3811MS with 2 units. I’m in the Texas heat, should I run both units on Low or High or Auto? Does High or Low put out cool air? I’ve been told mixed things. One forum said to run the living AC on Auto and out the bedroom AC on High or Low to help push air. Please clear this up. Thank you and love your videos. I also don’t have any direct dump air just the duck vents
I’m down in Louisiana and deal with the extreme temps too. The best thing to do is to run it on high all the time. This will help prevent any freezing up. It may not eliminate it depending on the humidity in your camper but it will definitely help. It will dry the coils off in between cycles of the compressor rather than the fan turning off and it just staying wet then get cold and freeze. Other than that start off early morning getting the camper down to a low temp will help it keep up during the day. Along with closing shades and reducing in and out of the entry door obviously. The output will only be 20 degrees lower than the air going in so keep that in mind. Now keep in mind fan running high or low doesn’t mean the air is always going to be cold coming out. It won’t if the compressor is cycling off. It just moves the air through the camper. Even though you don’t have the ceiling assembly you still have a divider up top only accessible through the AC or by taking it off. Probably wouldn’t hurt to get it checked out to ensure there is no mixed air. Hopefully that helps! Glad you like the videos and hope you’re a subscriber and share them with your camping friends to support us continuing to make it!! Thanks -Todd
Hey Todd,what’s your opinion on leaving the slide halfway open (a c) so that it blows a little more in living room and some in the vents? Just curious if that messes things up ?
I have a question my ac stopped working so I sent hubby up to get numbers off capacitor and he found a yellow wire just laying loose please help its very hot without it
Water dripping back inside? Could not figure out how to remove grey Styrofoam foam. Feels like drain holes are not obstructed. Unit is barely a year old. Link to other videos where you may address this? It's my understanding it's clogged drain holes then water backs up. I believe it was from rain storm previously day and roof idms flat and water puddles. What is the tray capacity on a 1300 BTU Domestic. I can not remember model number off too of my head but it is the newer more efficient model. Thx
Without the model number I can't answer specifics, for capacities. Something you can google easily when you get the model number. As for the water leak, you are saying you are seeing water is dripping back inside. Is this inside the RV or inside the fridge or the back of the fridge? I think what you are saying is that the drip tray below the fins on the inside of the fridge is backing up. I would say to empty any existing water you have and get an air compressor, lower it to 20-30 psi and blow through the drain tube from the inside and see if air is flowing out drain tube on the outside. If it isn't but you hear the air flowing on the backside of the fridge then you have a broken line. If no air flow then it may be clogged. The compressed air may clear it out. Also make sure the drain line isn't kinked or looped on the back of the fridge preventing the water from flowing smoothly out. Hopefully this was what you were looking for, let me know a few more specifics if not. Good luck. -Todd
I have a 2016 Dutchman rv my ac is Dometic ac my ac not blowing cold air and i have a white wire looks like it has a broken tip and also gave me code E5 will not work please help
E5 code is for the freeze sensor on the a/c. Not sure what model but you should have a sensor that looks like the one in this link I'll post below. If the white wire looks like this one then you will have to pull that freeze sensor and replace it. www.amazon.com/Thermistor-Replacement-Conditioner-Replaces-3312303005/dp/B09K74JC7P/ref=asc_df_B09K74JC7P/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=532606083338&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9234525944855605104&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9025218&hvtargid=pla-1463412433383&psc=1
You are correct, when we move to the roof and do service up there it is a Coleman AC. But the process is the same. And components are laid out similar and the information given is general to apply to any A/C. Good eye!
After watching your video, BEFORE I went up to clean my RVs A/C units, I realized that for the last year(or two) I’ve been running my unit wrong! I’ve had the “dump” vent open, which dumps right on my boyfriend and me while we sit on the couch!!! I even made a diverter so it wouldn’t be blowing directly on us. So glad that I watched the video-awesome information, GREAT TUTORIAL!
It’s the simple things that get overlooked and can make RVING more enjoyable! That’s why we do what we do. Thanks for sharing your comment and thanks for watching!
-Todd
Rv air 1:10
Take the cover off the thermostat, put it away for good.
The natural current in your bodys fingers work best on those chrome points to adjust the temperature the best with no frustration
Todd your a great human being bro 🫡💯🇺🇸🙏🏼💪🏼
Wow!! Thanks!! Not in it for the kudos, just trying to make a difference and make happy campers!! But, thanks for the compliment, hope you subscribed and gave us a like to support future content!! Tell your camper buddies!! -Todd
I certainly subscribed,thumbed up,and will share the expertise!! Have a great one
I have a 2018 Montana 3811MS with 2 units. I’m in the Texas heat, should I run both units on Low or High or Auto? Does High or Low put out cool air? I’ve been told mixed things. One forum said to run the living AC on Auto and out the bedroom AC on High or Low to help push air. Please clear this up. Thank you and love your videos. I also don’t have any direct dump air just the duck vents
I’m down in Louisiana and deal with the extreme temps too. The best thing to do is to run it on high all the time. This will help prevent any freezing up. It may not eliminate it depending on the humidity in your camper but it will definitely help. It will dry the coils off in between cycles of the compressor rather than the fan turning off and it just staying wet then get cold and freeze. Other than that start off early morning getting the camper down to a low temp will help it keep up during the day. Along with closing shades and reducing in and out of the entry door obviously. The output will only be 20 degrees lower than the air going in so keep that in mind.
Now keep in mind fan running high or low doesn’t mean the air is always going to be cold coming out. It won’t if the compressor is cycling off. It just moves the air through the camper.
Even though you don’t have the ceiling assembly you still have a divider up top only accessible through the AC or by taking it off. Probably wouldn’t hurt to get it checked out to ensure there is no mixed air.
Hopefully that helps!
Glad you like the videos and hope you’re a subscriber and share them with your camping friends to support us continuing to make it!! Thanks -Todd
Hey Todd,what’s your opinion on leaving the slide halfway open (a c) so that it blows a little more in living room and some in the vents? Just curious if that messes things up ?
Doesn’t hurt a thing, go for it!!
I have a question my ac stopped working so I sent hubby up to get numbers off capacitor and he found a yellow wire just laying loose please help its very hot without it
Can you email me at tcolley at GARV. Net
Thank you !! Love your educational content!! Helps a lot for a “newbie” glamper 🫡🇺🇸
Water dripping back inside? Could not figure out how to remove grey Styrofoam foam. Feels like drain holes are not obstructed. Unit is barely a year old. Link to other videos where you may address this? It's my understanding it's clogged drain holes then water backs up. I believe it was from rain storm previously day and roof idms flat and water puddles. What is the tray capacity on a 1300 BTU Domestic. I can not remember model number off too of my head but it is the newer more efficient model. Thx
Without the model number I can't answer specifics, for capacities. Something you can google easily when you get the model number. As for the water leak, you are saying you are seeing water is dripping back inside. Is this inside the RV or inside the fridge or the back of the fridge?
I think what you are saying is that the drip tray below the fins on the inside of the fridge is backing up. I would say to empty any existing water you have and get an air compressor, lower it to 20-30 psi and blow through the drain tube from the inside and see if air is flowing out drain tube on the outside. If it isn't but you hear the air flowing on the backside of the fridge then you have a broken line. If no air flow then it may be clogged. The compressed air may clear it out. Also make sure the drain line isn't kinked or looped on the back of the fridge preventing the water from flowing smoothly out.
Hopefully this was what you were looking for, let me know a few more specifics if not. Good luck. -Todd
I have a 2016 Dutchman rv my ac is Dometic ac my ac not blowing cold air and i have a white wire looks like it has a broken tip and also gave me code E5 will not work please help
E5 code is for the freeze sensor on the a/c. Not sure what model but you should have a sensor that looks like the one in this link I'll post below. If the white wire looks like this one then you will have to pull that freeze sensor and replace it.
www.amazon.com/Thermistor-Replacement-Conditioner-Replaces-3312303005/dp/B09K74JC7P/ref=asc_df_B09K74JC7P/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=532606083338&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9234525944855605104&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9025218&hvtargid=pla-1463412433383&psc=1
Um.... That is not a Dometic AC Unit. That is a Coleman Mach
You are correct, when we move to the roof and do service up there it is a Coleman AC. But the process is the same. And components are laid out similar and the information given is general to apply to any A/C. Good eye!