This video was reading my mind... I was telling myself that it's gonna be like learning to fish all over again. You don't fish for bass the same as catfish ect..You gotta learn what each fish likes to do well.
I am brand new to trapping and really enjoy your channel. Nobody in my family traps so I have had to learn on my own and I still have a ton to learn. It’s great that people like you make so many videos and explain things so well.
This is my first year trapping. I've been watching alot of videos trying to learn this sport. Your stuff is one of, if not my favorite channel. I'm starting with about 2 dozen traps. A mix of body grips and foot holds. I've made my own stretchers and fleshing beams so I saved a ton of money there since I used hardwood logs I cut from my property as well as scrap lumber from my job. I also am lucky enough to have a mentor who is willing to show me the ropes. I joined my state trappers association and have been taking classes. Anyway, good luck to you this season.
I'm getting started at muskrat trapping just this year. I have very minimal equipment, but I just caught my first muskrat at under $100 by using some of the things I already had. A hatchet, a pocket knife, a few 110s, some flagging tape, spare nails I had laying around, a few posts and my trap tags and I had sets under the ice up here in Wisconsin. It's not a big line, it's not fancy, but that's what it took for me to get my first bit of fur. Going to focus on the rats for this season, maybe branch off and just try to catch my first mink, and then give it a little more variety, time, effort, and money next season.
Having become disabled several years ago I am just now getting back outside. I am turning to trapping as a supplement to my hunting. Chronic pain and a limp prohibits me from staying in the field for long. I'm hoping the traps extend that period. My focus is Squirrel and Rabbit. I have 8 traps total righ now. Two 220s and six 110s. I'm hoping to make this work and it will help me get out more just by checking them which my state requires daily. So there is not only a nutritional benefit, grocery budget benefit, but a therapeutic benefit in it for me. I'm looking forward to this first experience and I can't wait to learn more.
Quality Only Hurts Once! I learned that lesson with Havahart cage traps. Mine hang on the wall year round unless I absolutely need them and/or in a no-kill type situation. Great suggestions and topic for discussion.
Well said..... I totally agree with your advice, focus on knowing about the animal your trapping. It helps knowing and able to read your surroundings for trap placement. Thanks for sharing! God bless....
Subscribed based purely on your personality and way of presenting good information...and because we own the same swiss poncho I see in the background. I'm in Louisiana and think we probably need some more nutria trappers.
Good solid advice! Like you said, you are going to be aggravated with trying to catch animals let alone getting upset with your equipment. Crawl before you walk.
Great video! As a new trapper myself (my 2nd year), this was very helpful. It is easy to get "overexcited" about all the different animals and methods and techniques of catching them while watching youtube videos. What the new trapper doesn't realize is the time, money and effort that goes into being successful. It looks easy on the video, not so easy when your just starting out. I will say I have learned a lot from you and other youtubers and I was successful this past weekend as I caught my first coyote and my first bobcat. I used only two traps and they were both MB-550s you talked about. It is the best foot hold trap made for the beginner. You said it perfectly, "Learn to trap instead of learning to put out traps". Only thing I would add as info to what you already said is, if you are a beginner and you want to catch multiple species (like me), learn all you can about the animals you are interested in, then find the techniques and equipment that can be used on all those animals. In other words, learn to catch several different animals with one type of technique or equipment. Your techniques and your equipment should be multifunctional. It will save you money, keep inventory low, and it teaches you to become more versatile without having to change up everything you do.
Very good info. I would also add limit how many places you trap at one time. When people find out you trap they all want you to come trap their farm/hunting property/ ponds etc. and if yourself they all want you to catch what they want gone. This stresses and stretches you out so you can’t get what you want to get done This year I’m going to trap a little and I’m going to target mink one reason I always wanted to catch one and another reason people here seem to there aren’t any (there are just have to look). I’m not telling anybody either this is what I want to do --not what everyone I know wants me to do.
So, i know you recomend mbs, but how do victor 1.5s compare to dukes, i dont have victors but i saw them in a store and they look exactly the same as the dukes just with differnt pan stampings, duke 1.5s are 5.69 and victors are 10.99 so would the victors be worth the extra money
What are your thoughts on offset jaws on long spring traps? I think they would be superior to regular jaws in holding power simply because they would allow the long springs to ride up the jaws higher and therefore get a better lock. As you already know (and taught me), the top spring ring locks the jaws closed but the higher up that spring goes the more mechanical advantage the jaws have... so in theory, offset jaws are definitively better than regular jaws no? (Except for beaver tails of course)... I'm asking because I'm looking at MB450 replacement jaws to put on my sleepy creek #2 long springs (like you suggested lol). The offset on them is 3/16"... since I want my #2s to be all around long term survival traps and to be able to catch game ranging from squirrels to coyote... you think 3/16" would be to large of a gap and allow small animals to pull out? Only asking because I have the option right now between reg or offset. Also thinking about base plating my #2 long springs for the sole reason of making the frames stronger and less likely to be bent up by a large animal... maybe tack welding a bead on the tips of each jaw joint so they can't be pulled from the frame without tools... good idea or not necessary? Thanks man. Those silver prices though!!....
Thanks for your time, expertise and no nonsense, straight to the point presentations. What if I'm interested in trapping small hog for meat? Same principles apply?
I STARTED WITH DZ 1 1/2 LONG SPRING IN 1974 I THINK THEY WERE 35 DOLLARS A DZ BACK THEN. BUT WHEN I COULD CATCH A MINK BEFORE SCHOOL RUNNING MY LINE AND GET 55 FOR EACH ONE I WAS A HAPPY CAMPER.
+contreeman Yessir - and the great thing is - those old traps will still work just fine today. Just think of all the pelts and food they have caught and will catch. You just can't beat trapping for it's value.
So glad I came across your channel. Your videos are great, and this was exactly what I was wondering, too. I've never trapped before, but I'm seriously thinkin' of getting into it. Thanks a lot for your wealth of knowledge!!
I started with a half dozen duke 110s, a single spring coil 1 1/2, and a 330. Total cost was about $50. I just tied the chains to tree roots or with paracord. Never lost a trap. Now I'm not a big time trapper and I don't sell my furs, and I'm no pro. But literally $50 got me in the game and I have tons of pelts, and I've learned so much and had a blast doing it.
+Prepared Survivalist That is a very good example of getting in the game for very little. Thanks for posting this so others can see that it doesn't take much to get started and try it out. Let me ask you what do you think about a video series where I simply take one trap, something like a Duke 1.5 or Sleepy creek #11 and see what you can catch with ONE trap? The more I think about it, the more I think it might be worth doing. Maybe a theme of a "backpack survivalist with one trap". Think it would be useful? One trap, a piece of tie wire and whatever bait I can scrounge. A true walk through the woods with a single trap and try to feed yourself video.
I don't know about you, but I only catch animals in one trap at a time. Meaning, it only takes one. So yea, that'd be a good series for the folks who keep a trap or two in their bugout bag or what have you.
Thanks for your advice... May i add one more factor to your vid...that is know the area well to set your trap. This may increase your chance of getting the animals. lol
Thanks. Good advice. I am new to trapping and have begun buying some traps here and there for the next trapping season. As far as picking a species, I would have to choose Otter. They are becoming quite a nuisance around here wreaking havoc on fish in the local farm ponds. Thanks again.
Exactly. I use belisle conibears and Montgomery leg hold traps. They are great quality traps. I have tried bridger and duke. I don't like them.they only last a couple years and u need to replace the trigger. The only thing about the belisle I don't like is there lock on the traps. But they last for ever
When I first started trapping, the thing that helped me mostly at getting started on the right foot.. Was going to a state trapper association meeting. I joined, I talked to local trappers, found out the best traps to invest in, they demonstrated their best sets, equipment, and talked about how to prepare traps, skin and flesh pelts, then met local fur buyers. I also met a couple of trappers who taught a how to canine trap class.. which I attended. They covered the whole process how to dye and wax all the way to making the catch. DNR was there and discussed the state laws.
I got a deal on a whole lot of traps a month ago all sizes about 2 dozen foot hold of each size and close to a dozen of each conibear traps 220 280 330 and about 5 dozen of 110 and 155 I traded a old junk truck for them I'm going to use your advice tho I'm only going to go after 1 animal and use only half dozen to a dozen traps bc it's a bit confusing of witch traps to use when u have 200 of them so this helped a lot keep it up and how do u go about preparing for for sale idk if u have a video on that or not thanks for making these videos
Great advice but I think the best thing to do is start with beavers because all you'll need is 330 conibears just put in runs that are deep which means they are used lots or else set where lots of trees are cut down but ya beaver would be the best because it would be the cheapest because all u need is setters and the traps u don't need boot waders that badly u can start without and no lure because if lots of trees are cut down it means beaver are using the run. I'd suggest only trap if there are lots of beaver though otherwise trap whatever U have lots of where u are
+imasurvivornthriver Since you live in a warm climate, no need for a 4 coiled trap. The two coil versions work great. Like Herbert said, offset jaws are good to prevent paw damage in case you catch the neighbors dog.
the way I started was in the back yard trapping birds as a kid we would just let them go. then we started to trap rabbits and squirrel. mainly trapping of opportunity at first like seeing a squirrel go into his hole and setting a trap over the hole the same with ribbits and a one way trap. the earliest memory I have of trapping would be most defiantly would be building 4 leaf clover traps and catching perch for bank poles.
+The Meat Trapper yeah I remember the funnest time of the the year for us was in October we would set out 20-30 bank poles on the river and check them every morning and every evening rebait them it was a lot of work. we would clean all the fish but the most enjoyable work I think I have done in my life. it is a really cool think that when you can give the fish away to others. it may not sound like much but if you have ever been in need it would take on a hole other meaning.
Great video! what about joining the local trapping association and apprenticing yourself with an experienced trapper. You will quickly understand what is involved in running a trapline. Early mornings and late evenings in all kinds of weather. It may look great setting all those traps and outsmarting the animal, however that is only the front side of the whole equation. You really may not like the backside - skinning, hide pre and all those other details that are typically NOT shown on youtube videos. Just my thoughts and thank you again for all of your videos.
+James W Great advice! I can't believe I didn't mention local associations as they can be a great source of mentors. Thanks for the reminder! Good point about the dirty work - in fact, that might be a good topic for a video - disposing of remains, cleanup, etc. Great comment and thanks!
+xle5363 If caught in a cage trap, get a big tarp and approach slowly from behind the tarp. Drape the tarp over the cage. Remove the cage from the area. They won't spray while wrapped up. Most people will dispatch them rather than release them. You can run a hose from your exhaust under the tarp and kill them painlessly and they won't spray. Or you can drop the tarp wrapped cage in water. If you catch one in a foot hold - good luck with that! That's just a mess and I have no advice for that. Good luck. It's been a few years since I caught a skunk because I mostly water trap and we don't have a lot around here.
You can't. Wire is a terrible snare material. You will be much better off using aircraft cable - even 3/64" aircraft cable is far better than any wire. I would strongly urge you to contact SouthernSnares.com, tell them what you want to snare and then see what they suggest. I use their snares and they are top notch in every respect.
+Arkansas Hillbilly No problem, Here's a $500 Beaver kit that uses the best traps and lure money can buy: 1 dozen MB750 foothold traps: $300 60 ft #2 chain: $50 4 ounces lure: $20 Proline Hip Boots: $55 Shoulder length Gloves $20 T Bar stakes dozen $25 dozen cable stakes $15 dozen swivels $5 Total : $490 Hope that helps!
I'm in Central Alabama(Bibb/Chilton co. ). Do you know anybody in this area that is willing to teach a new trapper? My grandfather and great uncle both trapped for a living but unfortunately they've both been deceased for a long time so I didn't learn from them. I would like to start the trade on back up though. Thanks.
+Bama Woodsman I don't know anyone off hand down that way. I would join the Alabama Trappers and Predator Callers Assoc. It's only $10 a year and we need everyone we can get. They may have someone down that way. If you have any beaver areas I could probably come down and help you out; but I'm not a land trapper so I can't help if you're targeting yotes, etc. Let me know if I can help.
Found this video after sending you and email!! Thanks.
This video was reading my mind... I was telling myself that it's gonna be like learning to fish all over again. You don't fish for bass the same as catfish ect..You gotta learn what each fish likes to do well.
I am brand new to trapping and really enjoy your channel. Nobody in my family traps so I have had to learn on my own and I still have a ton to learn. It’s great that people like you make so many videos and explain things so well.
Glad it has helped and hope you have a great season!
welcome to trapping...happy trails!
This is my first year trapping. I've been watching alot of videos trying to learn this sport. Your stuff is one of, if not my favorite channel. I'm starting with about 2 dozen traps. A mix of body grips and foot holds. I've made my own stretchers and fleshing beams so I saved a ton of money there since I used hardwood logs I cut from my property as well as scrap lumber from my job. I also am lucky enough to have a mentor who is willing to show me the ropes. I joined my state trappers association and have been taking classes. Anyway, good luck to you this season.
Same to you sir!
Very good, best advice yet! "You want to learn to trap animals not put traps out" that's getting quoted in my trappers book!
I'm getting started at muskrat trapping just this year. I have very minimal equipment, but I just caught my first muskrat at under $100 by using some of the things I already had. A hatchet, a pocket knife, a few 110s, some flagging tape, spare nails I had laying around, a few posts and my trap tags and I had sets under the ice up here in Wisconsin. It's not a big line, it's not fancy, but that's what it took for me to get my first bit of fur. Going to focus on the rats for this season, maybe branch off and just try to catch my first mink, and then give it a little more variety, time, effort, and money next season.
Fanfricking great. Thank you Sir. I typed in how to try trapping in Alberta, Canada and this is where I ended up. Thank you very much Sir.
Having become disabled several years ago I am just now getting back outside. I am turning to trapping as a supplement to my hunting. Chronic pain and a limp prohibits me from staying in the field for long. I'm hoping the traps extend that period. My focus is Squirrel and Rabbit. I have 8 traps total righ now. Two 220s and six 110s. I'm hoping to make this work and it will help me get out more just by checking them which my state requires daily. So there is not only a nutritional benefit, grocery budget benefit, but a therapeutic benefit in it for me. I'm looking forward to this first experience and I can't wait to learn more.
Thank you sir for the knowledge that you allow us to hear from you. Keep up the good work
Excellent advice. I'm new to trapping and I wish I had seen this video last year. Take this man advice and read your state laws, very good advice.
Tim,
As always, "Spot On". The young trappers are lucky to have you as a Coach and Mentor. Bulldog
Thank you buddy I appreciate that.
Quality Only Hurts Once! I learned that lesson with Havahart cage traps. Mine hang on the wall year round unless I absolutely need them and/or in a no-kill type situation. Great suggestions and topic for discussion.
Well said..... I totally agree with your advice, focus on knowing about the animal your trapping. It helps knowing and able to read your surroundings for trap placement. Thanks for sharing! God bless....
Subscribed based purely on your personality and way of presenting good information...and because we own the same swiss poncho I see in the background.
I'm in Louisiana and think we probably need some more nutria trappers.
Thank you sir - great poncho for sure! I can't wait for trapping season.
Good solid advice! Like you said, you are going to be aggravated with trying to catch animals let alone getting upset with your equipment. Crawl before you walk.
Great video! As a new trapper myself (my 2nd year), this was very helpful. It is easy to get "overexcited" about all the different animals and methods and techniques of catching them while watching youtube videos. What the new trapper doesn't realize is the time, money and effort that goes into being successful. It looks easy on the video, not so easy when your just starting out. I will say I have learned a lot from you and other youtubers and I was successful this past weekend as I caught my first coyote and my first bobcat. I used only two traps and they were both MB-550s you talked about. It is the best foot hold trap made for the beginner.
You said it perfectly, "Learn to trap instead of learning to put out traps". Only thing I would add as info to what you already said is, if you are a beginner and you want to catch multiple species (like me), learn all you can about the animals you are interested in, then find the techniques and equipment that can be used on all those animals. In other words, learn to catch several different animals with one type of technique or equipment. Your techniques and your equipment should be multifunctional. It will save you money, keep inventory low, and it teaches you to become more versatile without having to change up everything you do.
+Ken Collins Great job buddy - and congratulations on the yote and cat! Don't forget those cat backstraps are really good eating too!
Very good info. I would also add limit how many places you trap at one time. When people find out you trap they all want you to come trap their farm/hunting property/ ponds etc. and if yourself they all want you to catch what they want gone. This stresses and stretches you out so you can’t get what you want to get done
This year I’m going to trap a little and I’m going to target mink one reason I always wanted to catch one and another reason people here seem to there aren’t any (there are just have to look). I’m not telling anybody either this is what I want to do --not what everyone I know wants me to do.
Perfect advice hank you
Thanks for your post. Good work.
well done, good advice...
Could you do a vid on some old traps you got?
your our mentor Trapper
Good information!
thanks because I haved some missed catch with a briger 1.75 trap.
So, i know you recomend mbs, but how do victor 1.5s compare to dukes, i dont have victors but i saw them in a store and they look exactly the same as the dukes just with differnt pan stampings, duke 1.5s are 5.69 and victors are 10.99 so would the victors be worth the extra money
Some really good advise there! I'd agree, stick to one method, and one target species. Expand as your knowledge expands!
+Minktrappingpaddy Exactly!
Some good advice Tim!
What are your thoughts on offset jaws on long spring traps? I think they would be superior to regular jaws in holding power simply because they would allow the long springs to ride up the jaws higher and therefore get a better lock. As you already know (and taught me), the top spring ring locks the jaws closed but the higher up that spring goes the more mechanical advantage the jaws have... so in theory, offset jaws are definitively better than regular jaws no? (Except for beaver tails of course)...
I'm asking because I'm looking at MB450 replacement jaws to put on my sleepy creek #2 long springs (like you suggested lol). The offset on them is 3/16"... since I want my #2s to be all around long term survival traps and to be able to catch game ranging from squirrels to coyote... you think 3/16" would be to large of a gap and allow small animals to pull out? Only asking because I have the option right now between reg or offset.
Also thinking about base plating my #2 long springs for the sole reason of making the frames stronger and less likely to be bent up by a large animal... maybe tack welding a bead on the tips of each jaw joint so they can't be pulled from the frame without tools... good idea or not necessary?
Thanks man. Those silver prices though!!....
Thanks for your time, expertise and no nonsense, straight to the point presentations. What if I'm interested in trapping small hog for meat? Same principles apply?
Yes sir, browse my channel as I have some videos directly about snaring hogs.
Great video
great advice,i started out the trapping from the youtube,i learned a lot from trappers including yourself.thanks.
Thanks buddy! I appreciate that!
make a half a dozen colony traps for muskrats. muskrat are everywhere easy to catch and process. when sell your furs buy traps.
Great information! Thanks for sharing.
Hope it helps others avoid the same mistakes I made.
I STARTED WITH DZ 1 1/2 LONG SPRING IN 1974 I THINK THEY WERE 35 DOLLARS A DZ BACK THEN. BUT WHEN I COULD CATCH A MINK BEFORE SCHOOL RUNNING MY LINE AND GET 55 FOR EACH ONE I WAS A HAPPY CAMPER.
+contreeman Yessir - and the great thing is - those old traps will still work just fine today. Just think of all the pelts and food they have caught and will catch. You just can't beat trapping for it's value.
New sub trying to learn how to trap!
As always good information and presentation. You have good instructor skills. Straight, simple, and to the point. Thanks.
Thank you sir.
So glad I came across your channel. Your videos are great, and this was exactly what I was wondering, too. I've never trapped before, but I'm seriously thinkin' of getting into it. Thanks a lot for your wealth of knowledge!!
I started with a half dozen duke 110s, a single spring coil 1 1/2, and a 330. Total cost was about $50. I just tied the chains to tree roots or with paracord. Never lost a trap. Now I'm not a big time trapper and I don't sell my furs, and I'm no pro. But literally $50 got me in the game and I have tons of pelts, and I've learned so much and had a blast doing it.
+Prepared Survivalist That is a very good example of getting in the game for very little. Thanks for posting this so others can see that it doesn't take much to get started and try it out.
Let me ask you what do you think about a video series where I simply take one trap, something like a Duke 1.5 or Sleepy creek #11 and see what you can catch with ONE trap? The more I think about it, the more I think it might be worth doing. Maybe a theme of a "backpack survivalist with one trap".
Think it would be useful? One trap, a piece of tie wire and whatever bait I can scrounge. A true walk through the woods with a single trap and try to feed yourself video.
I don't know about you, but I only catch animals in one trap at a time. Meaning, it only takes one. So yea, that'd be a good series for the folks who keep a trap or two in their bugout bag or what have you.
Very good advice
Thanks for the info
Thanks for your advice... May i add one more factor to your vid...that is know the area well to set your trap. This may increase your chance of getting the animals. lol
Thanks. Good advice. I am new to trapping and have begun buying some traps here and there for the next trapping season. As far as picking a species, I would have to choose Otter. They are becoming quite a nuisance around here wreaking havoc on fish in the local farm ponds. Thanks again.
Thats a great species to trap. Otter prices are coming back and one of the few animals to bring decent money. Good luck!
Exactly. I use belisle conibears and Montgomery leg hold traps. They are great quality traps. I have tried bridger and duke. I don't like them.they only last a couple years and u need to replace the trigger. The only thing about the belisle I don't like is there lock on the traps. But they last for ever
Thank u
If I wanted to trapping coyote what is your suggestions for bait lure and traps.
+Jaeger Bewick red fox urine, coyote urine, boss dog lure do flat set urine/scent post have fun
+Herbert Newman MB550 trap with wolf fang cable stakes
+Jaeger Bewick What these other fellas said. They are giving good advice.
Great informative and on the point video... Just like allways !!!
+WildByNature Thanks buddy!
When I first started trapping, the thing that helped me mostly at getting started on the right foot.. Was going to a state trapper association meeting. I joined, I talked to local trappers, found out the best traps to invest in, they demonstrated their best sets, equipment, and talked about how to prepare traps, skin and flesh pelts, then met local fur buyers.
I also met a couple of trappers who taught a how to canine trap class.. which I attended. They covered the whole process how to dye and wax all the way to making the catch. DNR was there and discussed the state laws.
Great advice! Thanks for contributing and helping others!
Thanks for the advice
I got a deal on a whole lot of traps a month ago all sizes about 2 dozen foot hold of each size and close to a dozen of each conibear traps 220 280 330 and about 5 dozen of 110 and 155 I traded a old junk truck for them I'm going to use your advice tho I'm only going to go after 1 animal and use only half dozen to a dozen traps bc it's a bit confusing of witch traps to use when u have 200 of them so this helped a lot keep it up and how do u go about preparing for for sale idk if u have a video on that or not thanks for making these videos
شكرا
shokran
thanks
great video and info
+Dean Dereworiz (Grizz) Thank you sir, glad it was of value.
Great advice but I think the best thing to do is start with beavers because all you'll need is 330 conibears just put in runs that are deep which means they are used lots or else set where lots of trees are cut down but ya beaver would be the best because it would be the cheapest because all u need is setters and the traps u don't need boot waders that badly u can start without and no lure because if lots of trees are cut down it means beaver are using the run. I'd suggest only trap if there are lots of beaver though otherwise trap whatever U have lots of where u are
Hey there my friend. Which MB550 would you recommend for a beginner? I notice they have several types to choose from.
+imasurvivornthriver offset jaws
+imasurvivornthriver Since you live in a warm climate, no need for a 4 coiled trap. The two coil versions work great. Like Herbert said, offset jaws are good to prevent paw damage in case you catch the neighbors dog.
Okay. Thank you. :-)
the way I started was in the back yard trapping birds as a kid we would just let them go. then we started to trap rabbits and squirrel. mainly trapping of opportunity at first like seeing a squirrel go into his hole and setting a trap over the hole the same with ribbits and a one way trap. the earliest memory I have of trapping would be most defiantly would be building 4 leaf clover traps and catching perch for bank poles.
+iwantosavemoney The good old days when kids did more than play video games!
Great info there buddy. I agree with 100%, start small and work your way up. Later
+NSTRAPPERHUNTER Have a good one up there!
+The Meat Trapper yeah I remember the funnest time of the the year for us was in October we would set out 20-30 bank poles on the river and check them every morning and every evening rebait them it was a lot of work. we would clean all the fish but the most enjoyable work I think I have done in my life. it is a really cool think that when you can give the fish away to others. it may not sound like much but if you have ever been in need it would take on a hole other meaning.
Great video! what about joining the local trapping association and apprenticing yourself with an experienced trapper. You will quickly understand what is involved in running a trapline. Early mornings and late evenings in all kinds of weather. It may look great setting all those traps and outsmarting the animal, however that is only the front side of the whole equation. You really may not like the backside - skinning, hide pre and all those other details that are typically NOT shown on youtube videos.
Just my thoughts and thank you again for all of your videos.
+James W Great advice! I can't believe I didn't mention local associations as they can be a great source of mentors. Thanks for the reminder! Good point about the dirty work - in fact, that might be a good topic for a video - disposing of remains, cleanup, etc. Great comment and thanks!
What is the danger with conibears? Breaking your finger?
How much is a trapline
Can you show us how to release a stunk from a foot hold trap or a live trap without getting sprayed?
+xle5363 If caught in a cage trap, get a big tarp and approach slowly from behind the tarp. Drape the tarp over the cage. Remove the cage from the area. They won't spray while wrapped up. Most people will dispatch them rather than release them. You can run a hose from your exhaust under the tarp and kill them painlessly and they won't spray. Or you can drop the tarp wrapped cage in water.
If you catch one in a foot hold - good luck with that! That's just a mess and I have no advice for that. Good luck. It's been a few years since I caught a skunk because I mostly water trap and we don't have a lot around here.
+xle5363 If you catch a skunk in a foothold trap and plan to release it, please be considerate of others who may be interested and make a video ;-)
What i would like to see but am afraid to ask is how can i make a locking snare with 24 gauge wire???
You can't. Wire is a terrible snare material. You will be much better off using aircraft cable - even 3/64" aircraft cable is far better than any wire. I would strongly urge you to contact SouthernSnares.com, tell them what you want to snare and then see what they suggest. I use their snares and they are top notch in every respect.
Hey meat trapper could you please make a list of the $500.00 kit you are talking about thank you for your time
+Arkansas Hillbilly No problem, Here's a $500 Beaver kit that uses the best traps and lure money can buy:
1 dozen MB750 foothold traps: $300
60 ft #2 chain: $50
4 ounces lure: $20
Proline Hip Boots: $55
Shoulder length Gloves $20
T Bar stakes dozen $25
dozen cable stakes $15
dozen swivels $5
Total : $490
Hope that helps!
+The Meat Trapper thank you very much I'm looking at getting into beaver trapping soon to help feed my family for future food problem's
Not me think he talkin bout sellin drugssss
Shut up dumbass.
I agree , just study do a little research
I'm in Central Alabama(Bibb/Chilton co. ). Do you know anybody in this area that is willing to teach a new trapper? My grandfather and great uncle both trapped for a living but unfortunately they've both been deceased for a long time so I didn't learn from them. I would like to start the trade on back up though. Thanks.
+Bama Woodsman I don't know anyone off hand down that way. I would join the Alabama Trappers and Predator Callers Assoc. It's only $10 a year and we need everyone we can get. They may have someone down that way. If you have any beaver areas I could probably come down and help you out; but I'm not a land trapper so I can't help if you're targeting yotes, etc. Let me know if I can help.