PRODUCT LINKS BELOW NITROGEN FERTILIZER Fall Nitrogen for cool season grasses apply 1st light frost. Cost/1000 on this is low and a professional grade fertilizer: amzn.to/4cImE8t Warm season or cool season grasses. Put on no closer than 6 weeks before dormancy on warm season grasses. Foliar application. Available in hose adaptor or apply with a back pack sprayer. amzn.to/4dV3ZHB POTASSIUM FERTILIZER Potassium granular fertilizer. Base on soil test. Has a little bit of nitrogen in it. Giving you a granular option. If you want to avoid putting nitrogen down which is a good idea, go with the foliar application with the simple solutions potassium product: amzn.to/3yW9g2L Simple solution potassium foliar application no nitrogen. www.amazon.com/dp/B01921NUMC/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_06TPN5F9K769AEP9ZV8Z?linkCode=ml2&tag=gregphil22-20 SOIL PH, MOISTURE & TEMPERATURE METER Like the digital ones of these. They give quick readings. amzn.to/3MmyYQU PRE EMERGENT HERBICIDES poa annua control: Like barricade for winter. It's inexpensive compared to other pre-emergents. Liquid to apply with back pack sprayer. amzn.to/3AAZELp Granular for those who do not have a back pack sprayer amzn.to/3T1A3l3 FUNGICIDES Scott's Disease Ex Snow mold, brown/yellow patch. Does not control dollar spot amzn.to/4dzQ8GJ Propicanazole for dollar spot, snow mold & brown/yellow patch. Hose end adaptor is cheap and easy to apply. amzn.to/3MjAi7b Granular the hose end adapter is cheaper cost. Giving you a granular option tho. a.co/d/77FpFs Sprayable with back pack sprayer. amzn.to/3Xhh6x6 HERBICIDES FOR OVERSEEDING Mesotrione Liquid Tenacity "brand name" Apply at time of seeding or before to control weeds during seeding. www.amazon.com/dp/B005DUTNF0/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_5GVF3NR755YVC19FKH4C?linkCode=ml2&tag=gregphil22-20 "generic" tenacity. This is the same active ingredient as tenacity. amzn.to/3X3u0xs Scott's for seed. Granular Mesotrione amzn.to/4cAjuDK I am an Amazon associate. These are Pd ads. Does not increase your cost. I just get 5% of the sale for recommending products. I base these recommendations on quality and price.
Greg I just found your channel. I am an avid lawn guy. Enjoy watching videos. You are the GOLD standard. Your links, your style as an orator are second to none. Keep them coming I’ll be watching. Rich Booth Ma.
WOW!! thanks Rich!. I am little over a year into this and nearly 5000K subscribers. It's been a lot fun. Becoming more tacky as well for an older guy. Need to find a 20 year old to help me with the editing. But I am getting there. :)
Thank you so much. I can't wait for your over seed video. I am in the northern neck of Virginia I have already over seeded my yard. I had a great deal of die off due to lack of watering and the hot dry summer. I usually seed late summer so that by Halloween my yard is in and beginning to establish itself. Let me know what you think. I have been listening to all the you-tube gurus for more than 17 years, and each year I find myself reseeding my entire yard and starting from scratch. Keep talking I'm listening!!
Thanks so much for the kind and encouraging words. Ya it's been the toughest summer in several years. I am in my second year with the channel. My intention was to seed under my maple tree this fall. I did not do much to the back yard. It is really thin. Hope to get my seed this week and get the party started. I am very excited about this custom blend I have put together.
I believe my backyard has a big problem with poa annua in the summer time. I did not consider pre emergent at Thanksgiving time. I’m over seeding next week. I’ll use the pre emergent at Thanksgiving like you said. It makes sense. Thx 🙂
Great video again! Here in Indy I'm going with Barenbrugs Turf Blue HGT Kentucky bluegrass for over seeding and spot seeding for fungus recovery this fall. The Barvette, Baserati and Barduke cultivars are supposed to be very good for drought and fungus resistance.
THANKS!!! One other suggestion is a bluegrass blend from Tri City Seed called Blu Envy. I talk about it at the 21 minute mark in my grass selection video. ua-cam.com/video/f8eDZDvYBhQ/v-deo.htmlsi=nCnY8EHG0V3rag0o Blu Envy has 4 varieties of bluegrass that are in the top 20 in the National Turfgrass Evaluation Program trials. One is ranked #1. You can get it from amazon. Link to Blu Envy here. amzn.to/3Xm3a5i Pd Ad
Have you come across any studies on the effect of lots of chemistry on critters. My lawn is more rural and I enjoy seeing the spadefoot toads, pickerel frogs, wood frogs, ringneck snakes and garter snakes. Who doesn't love a green lawn? But I try to balance it against possible negative effects on the local habitat. So a good low maintenance grass is always the best choice for me, it's a balancing act.
Agreed....I would like to do more on "alternative yards" and ground covers. I have seen some creative ideas from people with ivy, alternative and native grasses. When I had my golf courses I liked to keep a lot of naturalized areas as I could. No mowing just let it grow. It added definition to the course. Unfortunately not as much as I like because the perception of a well maintained area of turf is a mowed one.
Grubs are fairly much finished up for the year. Depending on your line of latitude looking at putting out grub control from mid May through early June next year.
I mow cool season grasses a bit shorter 2-2.5" before winter as it seems to help the grass not get so matted down and dry out faster when snowpack finally starts melting, hopefully preventing snowmold. Anecdotally I think it helps here in utah
Interesting..I wound like to see a university study on it. Scott's usually has good advice. Was surprised I could not find a study on it. I keep my advice based on university data/studies/research so unless I see something from them I usually question it. Good to know it helps you!!
Great information thanks! I’m in Atlanta and we are getting rain this week 9/12 finally. I had prepared my shade areas and needed to get the seed out but could only find the pennington smart seed dense shade with starter fertilizer . Would it be okay to use Scotts built for seed turf builder or is that too much fertilizer.
The Scotts for seed should be put on at seeding or just before. So if you have already seeded you may set back the new seedlings if they have popped. Are you trying to control weeds?
Yes, it’s a neglected area and was mostly weeds and moss in back yard in shade. There is a line where the Bermuda ends and this area starts due to shade. My lawn service won’t treat it because the other areas are 7,500 sf of Bermuda and 12,500 sf of zoysia in front yard.
Nice video! Tifway 419 in Eastern NC.. so fungus & weeds a good plan would be Azoxystrobin anytime in October for Spring dead spot, and then barricade any time in November for winter weed prevention?
Yep you can go out in late October in NC. Just so you get it down before thanksgiving you should be good. You can also do a glyphosate application on dormant 419 around mid February any take out any poa or weeds that you have as well. At prestonwood CC in Cary we wound put out barricade w/glyphosate together in February. Putting barricade in mid to late fall it is unlikely you will need the glyphosate app.
If I use a pre emergent with Prodiamine in the fall in New Jersey, can I also apply it again in the spring? Or will I have to choose another pre emergent with a different active ingredient?
They are all group 3 pre emergent herbicides for cool season grasses. I do like dimension better for summer weed control tho. Tenacity is a group 27 herbicide and is considered a pre and post emergent however it only provides 30 of so days of pre emergent control.
So long as you do not intend to seed. You are putting a pre emergent down which will inhibit germination of desirable grass BUT will keep weeds from germinating well into winter and early spring.
Many thanks Live in central Jersey. Caddie at Metedaconk National Golf Club. Any suggestions for turf type to transform TTF to a more low mow height without using bent. Bringing ph up with lime per soil analysis. No irrigation so needs to survive summer dormancy .
Have two acres at home that I am transforming into a short game practice area. Will keep rough as TTF but loosing turf on greens and fairways due to TTFs hatred of low cut
Options are either ryegrass or bluegrass. Ryegrass would be easier. You can mow it as low as 1/2 inch and it will take it fairly well. Tall fescue can't take that "fairway" mowing height. Also ryegrass has a 3 to 7 day germination time so it will pop up quick. Lesco's double eagle ryegrass would be a good move . It comes in 1, 5, 10, 25 and 50 lb bags so you can get the seed you need without having a bunch left over. BUT order a little extra and seed your divots with a seed/sand mix. Seed it at 7 lbs /1000 ft. Here is an Amazon link. amzn.to/473vhcl Bluegrass would
A friendly fyi. Not sure if this was misstated but your resistance comment on different MOA’s of P. annua control is inaccurate. Just bc someone uses a post em later in the year doesn’t necessarily count as rotation from there Poa pre em. Most of the newer recs for rotation, (check the UT Turf UA-cam page as they just posted some trials this spring which also include a refining of when annua germinates) are for multiple MOA’s in the same app. There is quite a bit of inaccuracy’s here regarding Poa control. Hoping you clarify in the pre video which assume is coming soon. All the best.
If you are referring to the University of Tennessee study on the use of Katana (Flazasulfuron) and other group 2 herbicides in fall for control of poa annua, Dr. Eric Reasor put a narrative of the study together. I will put a link to it link below. My statement of using a multiple group herbicides through the year to prevent weed resistance was not a misstatement. That is true. On the Katana label under section 2. Weed Resistance Management…. the label of the herbicide confirms my guidance. “Rotate the use of Katana Turf Herbicide or other Group 2 herbicides within a growing season sequence or among growing seasons with different herbicide groups that control the same weeds” It says “among growing seasons” which means as far apart as the next growing season and not in the same application which what the UT study looked at. Celsius (Dicamba, Iodosulfuron-methyl-sodium, Thiencarbazone-methyl) which has multiple active ingredients also says this as well. Nearly verbatim. The study also advocated fall applications of post emergent herbicide. I do not recommend that at all. Reason being, if the lawn is not completely dormant it can weaken warm season grasses prior to dormancy which can lead to winter kill. Also, it is likely to be an unnecessary cost. If the pre-emergent sufficiently controls weeds to the homeowner’s stratification, then you are spending money, time, putting another herbicide into the lawn and running the risk of chlorosis (yellowing) of the lawn. Celsius and Katana are “mild” herbicides and do not cause the yellowing as others however, why take the risk? Then there is Katana’s label itself which also is consistent with what I was advocating. Under section 6.3 Removal of Annual bluegrass (Poa annua) from listed warm-season turfgrasses Katana’s label states: “Applications made in the spring provide the best control. Applications made in the fall or winter seasons are slightly less effective. Not only does the label advocate for spring applications of group 2 herbicides, if you have overseeded with ryegrass for winter color applying at that time will clean the yard up nicely. Will leave a link to Katana’s label also below. As far as practicality, the smallest container I can find of Katana is 5 oz and cost over $200. Its over $300 on do my own. Celsius not only has three active ingredients which gives it a broader spectrum of control. It also comes in 0.22 oz packets and cost $17 each. Katana if you need to control broadleaf weeds you will have to add it to the tank. Celsius with the Dicamba already in it much covers most broadleaf weeds. There is Negate (Metsulfuron & Rimsulfuron) is $55 for a 1.5 oz container. Katana is just not practical for homeowners. As far as poa annua control in cool season grasses. Other than Tenacity (Mesotrione) which is a group 27 herbicide and according to the label “suppresses” poa annua. There is only Prograss (Ethofumesate) group 16 that have any post emergent activity on poa annua for cool season grasses. Prograss is not labeled for residential use so that is not an option. I known superintendents that have use Prograss for poa annua control and its very risky. Often really sets back the desirable turf. Basically, for cool season grasses there is only using Group 3 pre-emergent herbicides and strategic timing of cultural practices like aerification, dethatching etc. at times that does not benefit poa annua germination. So the “rotation” options are limited in cool season grasses to say the least. www.pbigordonturf.com/how-to-control-poa-annua-annual-bluegrass-and-properly-manage-herbicide-resistance/ www.domyown.com/msds/Katana_Turf_Herbicide_Label_2022.pdf
@@GregPhillips.22 Likely could be the same trial based on your link but I assume it was not published. There is a lot more covered by Dr. Brosnan in those videos than what is outlined in this PBI link. And the videos are from March of 2024. The PBI has no link to the study, just a date of 2021 when he spoke to Dr. Brosnan....Just go their page. There are 3 videos appropriately titled....Furthermore, the PBI link says right there "Tank-mixes of PRE and POST herbicides have provided the most consistent Poa annua control in research trials (university and PBI-Gordon) across multiple sites and resistant populations". The problem is, who here is getting acceptable control from pre products on poa? Not many in the past 10 years in my experience. Come March-May the forums are off the rails with DIYers trying to figure it out. There is some risk of winter kill for sulfonylureas while in transition, but if you're talking about bermduagrass that is pretty low risk. So, yeah. If a home owner if cool with their result, who cares. But if they keep getting it over and over again and we keep telling them the same thing over and over again, shame on us! Based on those videos, there seems to be something there on fall post applications of group 2's. And if your are following BMP's from resitpoa . org. Here it is directly from the website "Emphasis on both preemergence followed by early-postemergence means of control, which effectively reduces the amount of annual bluegrass exposed to postemergence strategies"....Things are changing for good reason so we can't rely on old techniques. Negate is not a good rec for homeowners IMO. Unless they have at least an acre or close to it, or are able to use the whole bottle quickly and have the ability to use a nurse tank. And Celsius alone doesn't work well on mature poa. There is evidence that it does work well as a fall treatment on in those UT videos, but for poa in the spring I'd look elsewhere. Its a great product but for mature poa, probably not. You missed Velocity PM (which is questionable) and Xonerate for cool season post poa control. I don't believe those are RU, and not sure where price falls. I might suggest rewatching what you said at 7:44. There is no mention of using katana or other sulfonylureas or group 2 herbicides for poa control. It just says using herbicides later in the year. That needs more clarity as you we have both commented here. This was the point of my comment! And again, maybe you would have clarified in a different video, but it is not accurate as stated. Seems like it was off the cuff, so probably just a misstatement. That is unless you are claiming that using any different group herbicide, even if not a poa control product is going to reduce resistance in poa. Say for example, quinclorac. Also, they have found resistance of indaziflam in poa. Check out resistpoa . org. Looking forward to that poa control video!
Really struggling late July and August here in Richmond, VA. Had Bermuda creeping in to my tall fescue so I nuked it and want to start over. What grass/seed do you think is best for my zone?
Tall fescue or Bermuda. I actually have a seed / grass selection video if you want to check it out. I went to Bermuda in 2018 and it paid off this summer. Here is my grass video. ua-cam.com/video/f8eDZDvYBhQ/v-deo.htmlsi=mUExkIxY27Q6EVMw
Going to do common Bermuda seed Sept 1 here in south texas on my back 2 acres where it's thin and bare. Hopefully preemergent in November is still OK with the growing Bermuda and temps bc I got to fix the khaki weed/sandbur stickers back there. What do you recommend under live oak trees? Got a 15 foot ring of rocks at the trunk base, then under the canopy the Bermuda is really thin, but hasn't been maintained in years at my parents house (no water, oak leaves mulched is chocking out the grass, no fertilizer etc...) I'm hoping good seed, top soil, fertilizer and lots of water will get it going b4 December and next spring it will flourish with some TLC and bag mowing to help with weeds and oak leaves.
Sounds like you have my yard just MUCH further south. Instead of common Bermuda go with Monaco bermudagrass. It is a seeded variety that rivals some of the top notch varieties such as 419 or Tahoma 31. You can get that on Amazon will leave a link below. You MAY want to wait until spring to do that. If you bermudagrass in your area goes dormant before Thanksgiving. If it is after you can seed within the next couple of weeks. Pushing it to go further. You can try tall fescue under the trees that is likely the only seeded grass that will work under trees. If you have a sod far near you and they have plugs you can put in go with St. Augustine. It is the most shade tolerant of warm season grass. Monaco bermudagrass seed. a.co/d/40flMoB
@@GregPhillips.22 we barely go dormant in Dec or January around here. Did celebration Bermuda around the pool and house last year late September with no problems. I was also thinking of doing clover (for ground cover mostly bc man it's 105 and no rain for July & August) + Bermuda (got thin Bermuda on back 2 acres) bc the existing Bermuda alone hasn't spread much with so much drought last 3 years and the clay is cracking open in those bare spots so thought clover mix might help. Either way I got lots to do this fall lol!
bermuda should be able to take the heat but mine here in WV actually got drought stressed this year. As far as the clover. Some day would like to do a "ground cover" video. it's cool to expand and be creative beyond just growing grass. Atta boy for thinking outside the box.
I just seeded Bermuda on June 12th. Haven’t applied any herbicides or anything besides fertilizer to it. I was told that I can only apply Oxadiazon G as a pre em. I’m dealing with some crab grass and nutsedge right now. What do you recommend I do right now?
Oxadiazon G. I have used it on golf courses and it does last a very long time. Had a few golf course superintendents have problems with overseeding with rye in the fall after putting it out in the spring. But if you are not overseeding Bermuda that is a good thing. There is a concern with root pruning with pre-emergent herbicides. It is also not a concern with new sod. What I would recommend. Let it go for now and do one of two things. One. if your Bermuda goes dormant you can do a dormant application of glyphosate (roundup) on your bermuda and take care of any weeds you may have. I did that in Fairways, tees and rough in the Carolinas in mid February. The other option is a Celsius application after spring green up. Then put your pre-emergent down. Oxadaizon is a great pre-emergent but it is pricey. Celsius application will run you about $34 bucks for the average yard. Then go out with dimension (my preference) with a fertilizer. Generally that is the cheapest option when you are putting our pre-emergent and fertilizer at the same time.
Propicanizole particularly if you are getting night temperatures below 70 degrees. You still may have pythium if so you actually will need both to get you through September
For cool season grasses, you're only recommending 1 application of 1lb nitrogen per 1000 square feet around the first frost? In Maryland, first frost is in October, so you're not recommending anything in September?
Can go out in September. But you want to do a fertilizer application just before the grass slows down for winter. You want the sugars up going into winter. That is the first frost ap is for. If you do an application in Sptemeber you can go at a low rate in October. I know we..I am next to you in WV..can still get into the 90s until the 2nd week in September. Turf may still be under heat/drought stress depending on year. Until we start getting consistency in the low 80s and night time temps in the high 50s with good rain. Turf will take in the Nitrogen when out of stress. If it's still stressed it won't take it up.
Excellent videos as always!!! I'm up here in the north east, Cape cod mass, getting my seed and starter fertilizer ready for labor day weekend overseeding with dethatching/ aerating, what do u recommend for the pre emergent around Thanksgiving? Thanks and keep the informative videos coming!!!
sorry just saw this. I have seen the "nitrogen blitz" videos. Just a catchy name for fall fertilization. Cool season grasses fall nitrogen is the most important ap of the year. I am not a catch phrase type of guy. Just do what needs to be done and use the KISS method. Keep It Simple Stupid :). Bottom line....lb perhaps as much as a 1 1/4 of Nitrogen on your cool season turf at first light frost is what you need to do. Ideally with a fertilizer that has 20 to 50% slow release nitrogen.
The Andersons in the 40 lb. bag. has 9.6 lbs. total N . 1.15 lbs. of slow release N. 4.18 lbs. for 1K would put down 1 lb. of total N and only .12 lbs. of slow release N. At $74.00 a bag that does not seem very cost effective.
It's actually a total of 4.8 lbs of slow release in the form of sulfur coated urea. 40lbs X .12 (% sulfur coated urea) = 4.8lbs 24% Nitrogen 12% urea 12% Sulphur coated urea= 24%N. 40 lb bag will do 9,600 ft2 @ 1 lb of nitrogen/1000 ft2. Welcome to find what works best for you.
PRODUCT LINKS BELOW
NITROGEN FERTILIZER
Fall Nitrogen for cool season grasses apply 1st light frost. Cost/1000 on this is low and a professional grade fertilizer:
amzn.to/4cImE8t
Warm season or cool season grasses.
Put on no closer than 6 weeks before dormancy on warm season grasses. Foliar application. Available in hose adaptor or apply with a back pack sprayer.
amzn.to/4dV3ZHB
POTASSIUM FERTILIZER
Potassium granular fertilizer. Base on soil test. Has a little bit of nitrogen in it. Giving you a granular option. If you want to avoid putting nitrogen down which is a good idea, go with the foliar application with the simple solutions potassium product:
amzn.to/3yW9g2L
Simple solution potassium foliar application no nitrogen.
www.amazon.com/dp/B01921NUMC/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_06TPN5F9K769AEP9ZV8Z?linkCode=ml2&tag=gregphil22-20
SOIL PH, MOISTURE & TEMPERATURE METER
Like the digital ones of these. They give quick readings.
amzn.to/3MmyYQU
PRE EMERGENT HERBICIDES
poa annua control:
Like barricade for winter. It's inexpensive compared to other pre-emergents.
Liquid to apply with back pack sprayer.
amzn.to/3AAZELp
Granular for those who do not have a back pack sprayer
amzn.to/3T1A3l3
FUNGICIDES
Scott's Disease Ex
Snow mold, brown/yellow patch. Does not control dollar spot
amzn.to/4dzQ8GJ
Propicanazole for dollar spot, snow mold & brown/yellow patch.
Hose end adaptor is cheap and easy to apply.
amzn.to/3MjAi7b
Granular the hose end adapter is cheaper cost. Giving you a granular option tho.
a.co/d/77FpFs
Sprayable with back pack sprayer.
amzn.to/3Xhh6x6
HERBICIDES FOR OVERSEEDING Mesotrione
Liquid
Tenacity "brand name"
Apply at time of seeding or before to control weeds during seeding. www.amazon.com/dp/B005DUTNF0/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_5GVF3NR755YVC19FKH4C?linkCode=ml2&tag=gregphil22-20
"generic" tenacity. This is the same active ingredient as tenacity.
amzn.to/3X3u0xs
Scott's for seed. Granular Mesotrione
amzn.to/4cAjuDK
I am an Amazon associate. These are Pd ads. Does not increase your cost. I just get 5% of the sale for recommending products. I base these recommendations on quality and price.
Greg
I just found your channel. I am an avid lawn guy. Enjoy watching videos. You are the GOLD standard.
Your links, your style as an orator are second to none. Keep them coming I’ll be watching.
Rich Booth Ma.
WOW!! thanks Rich!. I am little over a year into this and nearly 5000K subscribers. It's been a lot fun. Becoming more tacky as well for an older guy. Need to find a 20 year old to help me with the editing. But I am getting there. :)
Thank you so much. I can't wait for your over seed video. I am in the northern neck of Virginia I have already over seeded my yard. I had a great deal of die off due to lack of watering and the hot dry summer. I usually seed late summer so that by Halloween my yard is in and beginning to establish itself. Let me know what you think. I have been listening to all the you-tube gurus for more than 17 years, and each year I find myself reseeding my entire yard and starting from scratch.
Keep talking I'm listening!!
Thanks so much for the kind and encouraging words. Ya it's been the toughest summer in several years. I am in my second year with the channel. My intention was to seed under my maple tree this fall. I did not do much to the back yard. It is really thin. Hope to get my seed this week and get the party started. I am very excited about this custom blend I have put together.
I believe my backyard has a big problem with poa annua in the summer time. I did not consider pre emergent at Thanksgiving time. I’m over seeding next week. I’ll use the pre emergent at Thanksgiving like you said. It makes sense. Thx 🙂
Glad I can help!!!
Great video again! Here in Indy I'm going with Barenbrugs Turf Blue HGT Kentucky bluegrass for over seeding and spot seeding for fungus recovery this fall. The Barvette, Baserati and Barduke cultivars are supposed to be very good for drought and fungus resistance.
THANKS!!!
One other suggestion is a bluegrass blend from Tri City Seed called Blu Envy. I talk about it at the 21 minute mark in my grass selection video.
ua-cam.com/video/f8eDZDvYBhQ/v-deo.htmlsi=nCnY8EHG0V3rag0o
Blu Envy has 4 varieties of bluegrass that are in the top 20 in the National Turfgrass Evaluation Program trials. One is ranked #1. You can get it from amazon. Link to Blu Envy here. amzn.to/3Xm3a5i
Pd Ad
Have you come across any studies on the effect of lots of chemistry on critters. My lawn is more rural and I enjoy seeing the spadefoot toads, pickerel frogs, wood frogs, ringneck snakes and garter snakes. Who doesn't love a green lawn? But I try to balance it against possible negative effects on the local habitat. So a good low maintenance grass is always the best choice for me, it's a balancing act.
Agreed....I would like to do more on "alternative yards" and ground covers. I have seen some creative ideas from people with ivy, alternative and native grasses. When I had my golf courses I liked to keep a lot of naturalized areas as I could. No mowing just let it grow. It added definition to the course. Unfortunately not as much as I like because the perception of a well maintained area of turf is a mowed one.
thank you
Thanks for the comment! I appreciate feedback.
Is it too late to put grub killer on my yard here in October 2024?
The moles are going crazy here...grr
Or should I wait for spring
Grubs are fairly much finished up for the year. Depending on your line of latitude looking at putting out grub control from mid May through early June next year.
I mow cool season grasses a bit shorter 2-2.5" before winter as it seems to help the grass not get so matted down and dry out faster when snowpack finally starts melting, hopefully preventing snowmold. Anecdotally I think it helps here in utah
Interesting..I wound like to see a university study on it. Scott's usually has good advice. Was surprised I could not find a study on it. I keep my advice based on university data/studies/research so unless I see something from them I usually question it. Good to know it helps you!!
Thank you for the video, Greg. Does your glyphosate sponge method work on clumping fescue?
Yep. Used it last week that I will be seeding soon. Wanted to get it out of there for leaf blades uniformly.
@@GregPhillips.22 okay awesome!
Great information thanks! I’m in Atlanta and we are getting rain this week 9/12 finally. I had prepared my shade areas and needed to get the seed out but could only find the pennington smart seed dense shade with starter fertilizer . Would it be okay to use Scotts built for seed turf builder or is that too much fertilizer.
The Scotts for seed should be put on at seeding or just before. So if you have already seeded you may set back the new seedlings if they have popped. Are you trying to control weeds?
Yes, it’s a neglected area and was mostly weeds and moss in back yard in shade. There is a line where the Bermuda ends and this area starts due to shade. My lawn service won’t treat it because the other areas are 7,500 sf of Bermuda and 12,500 sf of zoysia in front yard.
Nice video! Tifway 419 in Eastern NC.. so fungus & weeds a good plan would be Azoxystrobin anytime in October for Spring dead spot, and then barricade any time in November for winter weed prevention?
Yep you can go out in late October in NC. Just so you get it down before thanksgiving you should be good. You can also do a glyphosate application on dormant 419 around mid February any take out any poa or weeds that you have as well. At prestonwood CC in Cary we wound put out barricade w/glyphosate together in February. Putting barricade in mid to late fall it is unlikely you will need the glyphosate app.
If I use a pre emergent with Prodiamine in the fall in New Jersey, can I also apply it again in the spring? Or will I have to choose another pre emergent with a different active ingredient?
They are all group 3 pre emergent herbicides for cool season grasses. I do like dimension better for summer weed control tho. Tenacity is a group 27 herbicide and is considered a pre and post emergent however it only provides 30 of so days of pre emergent control.
@@GregPhillips.22thanks for the reply. Keep the content coming!
I have the 0-0-7 pre-emergent with that work as well?
So long as you do not intend to seed. You are putting a pre emergent down which will inhibit germination of desirable grass BUT will keep weeds from germinating well into winter and early spring.
Many thanks
Live in central Jersey. Caddie at Metedaconk National Golf Club.
Any suggestions for turf type to transform TTF to a more low mow height without using bent. Bringing ph up with lime per soil analysis. No irrigation so needs to survive summer dormancy .
Have two acres at home that I am transforming into a short game practice area. Will keep rough as TTF but loosing turf on greens and fairways due to TTFs hatred of low cut
Options are either ryegrass or bluegrass. Ryegrass would be easier. You can mow it as low as 1/2 inch and it will take it fairly well. Tall fescue can't take that "fairway" mowing height. Also ryegrass has a 3 to 7 day germination time so it will pop up quick. Lesco's double eagle ryegrass would be a good move . It comes in 1, 5, 10, 25 and 50 lb bags so you can get the seed you need without having a bunch left over. BUT order a little extra and seed your divots with a seed/sand mix. Seed it at 7 lbs /1000 ft. Here is an Amazon link. amzn.to/473vhcl
Bluegrass would
A friendly fyi. Not sure if this was misstated but your resistance comment on different MOA’s of P. annua control is inaccurate. Just bc someone uses a post em later in the year doesn’t necessarily count as rotation from there Poa pre em. Most of the newer recs for rotation, (check the UT Turf UA-cam page as they just posted some trials this spring which also include a refining of when annua germinates) are for multiple MOA’s in the same app. There is quite a bit of inaccuracy’s here regarding Poa control. Hoping you clarify in the pre video which assume is coming soon. All the best.
If you are referring to the University of Tennessee study on the use of Katana (Flazasulfuron) and other group 2 herbicides in fall for control of poa annua, Dr. Eric Reasor put a narrative of the study together. I will put a link to it link below.
My statement of using a multiple group herbicides through the year to prevent weed resistance was not a misstatement. That is true. On the Katana label under section 2. Weed Resistance Management…. the label of the herbicide confirms my guidance.
“Rotate the use of Katana Turf Herbicide or other Group 2 herbicides within a growing
season sequence or among growing seasons with different herbicide groups that control the same weeds”
It says “among growing seasons” which means as far apart as the next growing season and not in the same application which what the UT study looked at. Celsius (Dicamba, Iodosulfuron-methyl-sodium, Thiencarbazone-methyl) which has multiple active ingredients also says this as well. Nearly verbatim.
The study also advocated fall applications of post emergent herbicide. I do not recommend that at all. Reason being, if the lawn is not completely dormant it can weaken warm season grasses prior to dormancy which can lead to winter kill. Also, it is likely to be an unnecessary cost. If the pre-emergent sufficiently controls weeds to the homeowner’s stratification, then you are spending money, time, putting another herbicide into the lawn and running the risk of chlorosis (yellowing) of the lawn. Celsius and Katana are “mild” herbicides and do not cause the yellowing as others however, why take the risk?
Then there is Katana’s label itself which also is consistent with what I was advocating. Under section 6.3 Removal of Annual bluegrass (Poa annua) from listed warm-season turfgrasses Katana’s label states:
“Applications made in the spring provide the best control. Applications made in the fall or
winter seasons are slightly less effective.
Not only does the label advocate for spring applications of group 2 herbicides, if you have overseeded with ryegrass for winter color applying at that time will clean the yard up nicely.
Will leave a link to Katana’s label also below.
As far as practicality, the smallest container I can find of Katana is 5 oz and cost over $200. Its over $300 on do my own. Celsius not only has three active ingredients which gives it a broader spectrum of control. It also comes in 0.22 oz packets and cost $17 each. Katana if you need to control broadleaf weeds you will have to add it to the tank. Celsius with the Dicamba already in it much covers most broadleaf weeds. There is Negate (Metsulfuron & Rimsulfuron) is $55 for a 1.5 oz container. Katana is just not practical for homeowners.
As far as poa annua control in cool season grasses. Other than Tenacity (Mesotrione) which is a group 27 herbicide and according to the label “suppresses” poa annua. There is only Prograss (Ethofumesate) group 16 that have any post emergent activity on poa annua for cool season grasses. Prograss is not labeled for residential use so that is not an option. I known superintendents that have use Prograss for poa annua control and its very risky. Often really sets back the desirable turf. Basically, for cool season grasses there is only using Group 3 pre-emergent herbicides and strategic timing of cultural practices like aerification, dethatching etc. at times that does not benefit poa annua germination. So the “rotation” options are limited in cool season grasses to say the least.
www.pbigordonturf.com/how-to-control-poa-annua-annual-bluegrass-and-properly-manage-herbicide-resistance/
www.domyown.com/msds/Katana_Turf_Herbicide_Label_2022.pdf
@@GregPhillips.22
Likely could be the same trial based on your link but I assume it was not published. There is a lot more covered by Dr. Brosnan in those videos than what is outlined in this PBI link. And the videos are from March of 2024. The PBI has no link to the study, just a date of 2021 when he spoke to Dr. Brosnan....Just go their page. There are 3 videos appropriately titled....Furthermore, the PBI link says right there "Tank-mixes of PRE and POST herbicides have provided the most consistent Poa annua control in research trials (university and PBI-Gordon) across multiple sites and resistant populations".
The problem is, who here is getting acceptable control from pre products on poa? Not many in the past 10 years in my experience. Come March-May the forums are off the rails with DIYers trying to figure it out. There is some risk of winter kill for sulfonylureas while in transition, but if you're talking about bermduagrass that is pretty low risk. So, yeah. If a home owner if cool with their result, who cares. But if they keep getting it over and over again and we keep telling them the same thing over and over again, shame on us!
Based on those videos, there seems to be something there on fall post applications of group 2's. And if your are following BMP's from resitpoa . org. Here it is directly from the website "Emphasis on both preemergence followed by early-postemergence means of control, which effectively reduces the amount of annual bluegrass exposed to postemergence strategies"....Things are changing for good reason so we can't rely on old techniques.
Negate is not a good rec for homeowners IMO. Unless they have at least an acre or close to it, or are able to use the whole bottle quickly and have the ability to use a nurse tank. And Celsius alone doesn't work well on mature poa. There is evidence that it does work well as a fall treatment on in those UT videos, but for poa in the spring I'd look elsewhere. Its a great product but for mature poa, probably not.
You missed Velocity PM (which is questionable) and Xonerate for cool season post poa control. I don't believe those are RU, and not sure where price falls.
I might suggest rewatching what you said at 7:44. There is no mention of using katana or other sulfonylureas or group 2 herbicides for poa control. It just says using herbicides later in the year. That needs more clarity as you we have both commented here. This was the point of my comment! And again, maybe you would have clarified in a different video, but it is not accurate as stated. Seems like it was off the cuff, so probably just a misstatement. That is unless you are claiming that using any different group herbicide, even if not a poa control product is going to reduce resistance in poa. Say for example, quinclorac.
Also, they have found resistance of indaziflam in poa. Check out resistpoa . org. Looking forward to that poa control video!
Really struggling late July and August here in Richmond, VA. Had Bermuda creeping in to my tall fescue so I nuked it and want to start over. What grass/seed do you think is best for my zone?
Tall fescue or Bermuda. I actually have a seed / grass selection video if you want to check it out. I went to Bermuda in 2018 and it paid off this summer. Here is my grass video. ua-cam.com/video/f8eDZDvYBhQ/v-deo.htmlsi=mUExkIxY27Q6EVMw
Going to do common Bermuda seed Sept 1 here in south texas on my back 2 acres where it's thin and bare. Hopefully preemergent in November is still OK with the growing Bermuda and temps bc I got to fix the khaki weed/sandbur stickers back there. What do you recommend under live oak trees? Got a 15 foot ring of rocks at the trunk base, then under the canopy the Bermuda is really thin, but hasn't been maintained in years at my parents house (no water, oak leaves mulched is chocking out the grass, no fertilizer etc...) I'm hoping good seed, top soil, fertilizer and lots of water will get it going b4 December and next spring it will flourish with some TLC and bag mowing to help with weeds and oak leaves.
Sounds like you have my yard just MUCH further south. Instead of common Bermuda go with Monaco bermudagrass. It is a seeded variety that rivals some of the top notch varieties such as 419 or Tahoma 31. You can get that on Amazon will leave a link below. You MAY want to wait until spring to do that. If you bermudagrass in your area goes dormant before Thanksgiving. If it is after you can seed within the next couple of weeks. Pushing it to go further. You can try tall fescue under the trees that is likely the only seeded grass that will work under trees. If you have a sod far near you and they have plugs you can put in go with St. Augustine. It is the most shade tolerant of warm season grass. Monaco bermudagrass seed. a.co/d/40flMoB
@@GregPhillips.22 we barely go dormant in Dec or January around here. Did celebration Bermuda around the pool and house last year late September with no problems. I was also thinking of doing clover (for ground cover mostly bc man it's 105 and no rain for July & August) + Bermuda (got thin Bermuda on back 2 acres) bc the existing Bermuda alone hasn't spread much with so much drought last 3 years and the clay is cracking open in those bare spots so thought clover mix might help. Either way I got lots to do this fall lol!
bermuda should be able to take the heat but mine here in WV actually got drought stressed this year. As far as the clover. Some day would like to do a "ground cover" video. it's cool to expand and be creative beyond just growing grass. Atta boy for thinking outside the box.
Doing an overseed with core aeration. Just wondering if I should apply meso and quin before or after the seed and peat is down?
Only if you have weeds. If you were going with one go with meso. Will not need both.
@@GregPhillips.22apply before or after seed & peat is down? Thanks in advance ❤
sorry just saw this. you can apply meso before or after.
I just seeded Bermuda on June 12th. Haven’t applied any herbicides or anything besides fertilizer to it. I was told that I can only apply Oxadiazon G as a pre em. I’m dealing with some crab grass and nutsedge right now. What do you recommend I do right now?
Oxadiazon G. I have used it on golf courses and it does last a very long time. Had a few golf course superintendents have problems with overseeding with rye in the fall after putting it out in the spring. But if you are not overseeding Bermuda that is a good thing. There is a concern with root pruning with pre-emergent herbicides. It is also not a concern with new sod. What I would recommend. Let it go for now and do one of two things. One. if your Bermuda goes dormant you can do a dormant application of glyphosate (roundup) on your bermuda and take care of any weeds you may have. I did that in Fairways, tees and rough in the Carolinas in mid February. The other option is a Celsius application after spring green up. Then put your pre-emergent down. Oxadaizon is a great pre-emergent but it is pricey. Celsius application will run you about $34 bucks for the average yard. Then go out with dimension (my preference) with a fertilizer. Generally that is the cheapest option when you are putting our pre-emergent and fertilizer at the same time.
Hi Greg. I have a brand new PRG lawn that is 10 days old. Do you recommend applying preventative fungicide right now? If so which one, prop or azoxy?
Propicanizole particularly if you are getting night temperatures below 70 degrees. You still may have pythium if so you actually will need both to get you through September
For cool season grasses, you're only recommending 1 application of 1lb nitrogen per 1000 square feet around the first frost? In Maryland, first frost is in October, so you're not recommending anything in September?
Can go out in September. But you want to do a fertilizer application just before the grass slows down for winter. You want the sugars up going into winter. That is the first frost ap is for. If you do an application in Sptemeber you can go at a low rate in October. I know we..I am next to you in WV..can still get into the 90s until the 2nd week in September. Turf may still be under heat/drought stress depending on year. Until we start getting consistency in the low 80s and night time temps in the high 50s with good rain. Turf will take in the Nitrogen when out of stress. If it's still stressed it won't take it up.
@@GregPhillips.22 Any opinion about “fall nitrogen blitz?” Spoon feeding grass with .25 urea?
Excellent videos as always!!! I'm up here in the north east, Cape cod mass, getting my seed and starter fertilizer ready for labor day weekend overseeding with dethatching/ aerating, what do u recommend for the pre emergent around Thanksgiving? Thanks and keep the informative videos coming!!!
sorry just saw this. I have seen the "nitrogen blitz" videos. Just a catchy name for fall fertilization. Cool season grasses fall nitrogen is the most important ap of the year. I am not a catch phrase type of guy. Just do what needs to be done and use the KISS method. Keep It Simple Stupid :). Bottom line....lb perhaps as much as a 1 1/4 of Nitrogen on your cool season turf at first light frost is what you need to do. Ideally with a fertilizer that has 20 to 50% slow release nitrogen.
The Andersons in the 40 lb. bag. has 9.6 lbs. total N . 1.15 lbs. of slow release N. 4.18 lbs. for 1K would put down 1 lb. of total N and only .12 lbs. of slow release N. At $74.00 a bag that does not seem very cost effective.
It's actually a total of 4.8 lbs of slow release in the form of sulfur coated urea.
40lbs X .12 (% sulfur coated urea) = 4.8lbs
24% Nitrogen
12% urea 12% Sulphur coated urea= 24%N.
40 lb bag will do 9,600 ft2 @ 1 lb of nitrogen/1000 ft2. Welcome to find what works best for you.